pets

Puppies Need Time, Effort and Discipline

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 20th, 2003

In the summer, I get a lot of questions about puppies from people who realize that this season is a great time for adding to the family. Long days, no school, warm weather -- what could be better?

A few words of warning, though, if you're one of those people with a new summer pup: Don't let the season pass you by without putting some serious effort into raising the great dog you want your puppy to become.

Puppies need structure, consistency and lots of positive reinforcement. But more than anything, they need your time. Every minute with a puppy spent training, socializing and preventing problems will save you time and aggravation down the road.

Teach your puppy to get things right from the start, remove opportunities for undesirable behavior -- such as limiting your pup's access to areas where he can chew things you'd rather he leave alone. Keep him where he can't get into much trouble, and give him a toy to chew on instead. Don't forget to praise him for making the right decision -- even if the right choice was the only one offered.

In training, stick to the positive. Use praise and treats to motivate and reward your puppy as he learns the basic building blocks of good behavior.

You'll need some tools to help you stop unwanted behavior. Here are few effective ways to turn a situation around without resorting to physical punishment:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and provides the puppy with one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, such as a toy. When he takes it, praise him. (And then put those shoes away.)

-- Ask for another behavior. With older puppies and dogs, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Tell the puppy who's jumping up for attention to sit instead and then praise him for planting his rump on the ground.

-- The time-out. Crates, so useful for house-training, give you a break from your puppy and send him a message at the same time. Puppies thrive on your attention, sometimes even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward and gives a pup a few minutes to think things over. And sometimes, having a place to put your puppy will help keep you from losing your temper.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him in his crate for a nap, along with a chew toy. Ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

If you're constantly trying to reprimand your puppy, you may be sending him mixed signals: laughing at bratty behavior sometimes, yelling or hitting your puppy for that same behavior at other times. Discuss the situation with a trainer. You may have some big problems developing if you don't learn how to shape your puppy's behavior in a positive way.

No matter how well you're doing in raising your puppy, a puppy class is time and money well spent. Puppy classes for dogs as young as 12 weeks offer puppies a chance to socialize, and give you an opportunity to work with your pup under the expert eye of a trainer.

THE SCOOP

On these hot days, it's perfectly fine to give pets ice cubes to enjoy. Dogs and cats may even enjoy "petsicles" made from chicken or beef broth and frozen in ice-cube trays.

One way to keep a pet's drinking water cool is to add homemade ice blocks. Freeze water in margarine tubs, and then add a block of ice to the water dish before you leave for work in the morning. You like cold treats and cool drinks on hot days, and so does your pet!

PETS ON THE WEB

The Delta Society, an organization that supports and promotes such activities as using animals for therapy and the use of service dogs by people with disabilities, has pulled together an excellent collection of resources related to pet loss and bereavement. The resource Web page (www.deltasociety.org/dsn000.htm) offers a bibliography of helpful books, information on bereavement hot lines and support groups around the country, as well as links to other related sites.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: You've advocated having two pets to keep each other company, so I am not sure how having only one parrot (as you do) fits into that view. In the wild, don't parrots live in large flocks?

But, my main question is how such a pet-loving person could condone having any bird confined to a cage, when flying is what they do best and love?

I realize you enjoy their companionship, but as you've stated, parrots are extremely intelligent, so isn't it like "imprisoning" a young child? -- W.H., via e-mail

A: I don't have a problem with someone having a single pet -- as long as the pet's needs are met, including the social ones. I've been writing about pets long enough to know better than to deal in absolutes: I've seen all kinds of pets in all kinds of families work out well, as long as the people involved accept the responsibility for the care of their pets.

Parrots are social animals, true, but like dogs, they are able to accept us as members of their social circle. We are the "flock" or "pack" to our pets, as they are "family" to us. This is especially true of those parrots who are domestically bred and hand-raised from the time they are hatched.

Is it cruel to keep a caged pet? In some cases, I think it is. I have a serious problem with pets who are cage-bound for life, especially when those cages are small and with no environmental enrichment, and when the pets get nothing in the way of attention except the changing of food and water dishes, or the occasional cage cleaning. (So many children's pets live this way, after their young owners lose interest in them.)

Although he's not free to roam the native habitat of his wild ancestors, my parrot has a pretty good life. Eddie is only "imprisoned" in his toy-filled cage at night or when I'm not home, for his safety. Otherwise, he's climbing all over the inside and outside of his open cage, playing on one of his two natural-wood play stands, or wandering about the house and yard with me. (For the outside, he wears a tether to keep him from flying away -- a possibility even for birds with wing clips, if the right gust of wind comes along.) We play games that we've made up together, and he's learning tricks. He loves to play and to snuggle.

I'm not alone in taking such care of my bird. Many parrot-fanciers work hard to give their pets the best life possible short of living free, and these birds seems quite happy.

Q: In a recent column you mentioned nonstandard litter boxes. I use plastic under-bed storage boxes with the lid removed. My cats love them.

A friend of mine had a cat who didn't want to use the litter box (standard size), but when she switched to one of the larger storage boxes, he started using it regularly.

The storage boxes are about $5 or $6, so they actually cost less than the large litter boxes that are sometimes available from pet-supply stores. Will you pass the word along? -- C.S., via the Internet

A: You bet! You've happened on one of the most important rules when it comes to getting a cat to use the litter box: If the cat ain't happy, nobody's happy.

Cats need a box in which they can feel safe and comfortable, in a place that's protected, filled with clean litter of a type the cat prefers that isn't gunked up with deodorizing smells humans like but cats don't.

I'm always hearing from readers who are frustrated because their cats won't use whatever litter setup they're provided, chalking the problem up to the cat's "spite," "stupidity" or something equally off base. Bigger box, new location, different litter: Sometimes it just takes a change or two to get a cat back on track, as well as an owner with the patience and imagination to try.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Two Outstanding Products Will Make Pet Lovers Salivate

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 13th, 2003

Some of the most interesting people I've met in my years spent writing about pets are those who have turned their passion for animals into their life's work.

When you think about people who make their living working with pets, veterinarians, dog trainers or people who run boarding or pet-sitting businesses probably come to mind. And you'd be right -- these are among the most common and visible of people involved in caring for animals professionally.

But if you poke around at shows or on the Internet, or among those little ads in the back of pet magazines, you'll find a whole world of people who had a good idea for a single well-crafted pet product. Or maybe they have a handful of ideas, and they're working outside the realm of the big chain stores to bring these lovely items to the people and pets who most appreciate them.

They're not outside the superstore system entirely by choice, by the way. With their hand-crafted items they find it difficult break into the "big time," maybe because they can't handle the volume, can't meet the price, or both. So they eke out a living on the edges, providing a small but dedicated pet-loving clientele with some rather nifty goods.

I've run across two such products recently, made by small family businesses owned by people who seem passionate about their pets.

The first product is the Kitty Tease, made by John Galkiewicz's, The Galkie Company. His award-winning "cat fishing pole" toy has been going strong for 20 years. It's sold by mail and at pet shows and endorsed by veterinarians, behaviorists and cats everywhere. Galkiewicz sent me a sample, and it was everything he said the cheap ones were not -- it's made of high-quality materials for years of happy use.

"People ask me, what makes the Kitty Tease so special?" said Galkiewicz. "I tell them, 'it's because it's designed for a cat, not a person or a wallet.'"

Considering that more cats than ever before are staying inside -- a good thing, for their safety and health -- toys are very important to keeping them active and engaged. A toy like this is great fun for both cat and human, keeping the cat from becoming a couch potato and keeping the human from being the object of play attacks.

The Kitty Tease is $10, plus $5 shipping and handling from the company's Web site (www.kittytease.com), by phone (423-869-8138) or by mail (P.O. Box 20, Harrogate, TN 37752).

The Kitty Tease may be too pricey for the chain stores, but it's awfully cheap compared to the spectacular parrot play gyms made by Wayne Gagne of Wayne's Parrot Stuff (www.waynesparrotstuff.com; P.O. Box 848322, Pembroke Pines, FL 33084; tel: (954) 538-1994). That observation is not a knock on the gyms, which are large, wonderfully designed and sturdy play stations for parrots. They're handmade from the foot-friendly, chewable limbs of bottlebrush trees.

I might never have heard of Gagne's gyms had it not been for my friend Ben, whose macaw Courtney is crazy for hers. He told me her personality changes to happy, playful and animated, whenever she goes near it.

With my new parrot, I wanted to try the product out, so I ordered one, along with some toys. Two weeks later the gym arrived, and I set it up in less than 10 minutes. My experience has been the same as Ben's: My little parrot Eddie lights up when I put him on his play gym. He climbs, chews, swings and just loves the freedom of being out of his cage. When I'm home that's usually where you'll find him.

Prices start at around $200 for models made for cockatiels and other small parrots and go up from there, depending on the size and complexity of the play gym and the species for which it's designed. Gagne also offers some marvelous toys made from bottlebrush, cotton rope, wood, leather and other bird-friendly materials, as well as perches, starting at $6 for the smaller perches and climbing to around $160 for a set of toys and perches for large parrots. Great stuff, all of it.

PETS ON THE WEB

I've been meaning to mention the IMOM site (www.imom.org) for ages, after so many readers have pointed it out. Short for "In Memory of Magic" in honor of a special black cat, the site connects pet-loving people with a little money to give with those whose pets have treatable medical conditions they cannot afford to remedy. IMOM is a 501(c)3 charity, and the first person who wrote me about it was someone whose pet had been saved by the group.

THE SCOOP

Wayne Gagne of Wayne's Parrot Stuff passes along a nifty tip for containing parrot mess for easy cleanup -- go to the home-supply store and buy a pan designed for going under a water heater, at a cost of $15 to $20. Designed to contain leaks, the pans will catch anything and everything your bird drops, throws or ... well, you get the point. Buy a couple so you can switch in a fresh pan while you're cleaning the dirty one.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I came across a book I thought was helpful in finding out which dog is the right one for people looking for a pet. It is "Paws To Consider: Choosing the Right Dog for You and Your Family" by Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson (Warner Books, $23).

It lists information for each breed such as: usual pluses, possible drawbacks, height and weight, color, grooming, shedding, training, exercise, children, other pets, bite potential, possible health concerns and special comments. It also breaks down the breeds into categories such as: good dogs that are hard to find, the 9-to-5 dog, the family dog, etc.

I was interested in finding out about greyhounds -- all I had ever heard was good things. I know that all breeds have issues of some kind, health or behavior. This book gave me a good overview. It also helped me know about similar breeds that I may not have known about, such as the whippet and Italian greyhound. This will be helpful when I start looking for a new dog. -- N.M., via e-mail

A: This book is one of my favorites, too. So many breed-selection books seems to bend over backward not to offend people who fancy breeds that really shouldn't be in most homes (either because of temperament issues or such things as super-intensive grooming requirements). These authors pull very few punches, and their candor is just what someone needs before jumping into a breed that might be a horrible mistake for their family. It's an entertaining read, too!

I also like Michele Welton's "Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer's Guide" (Henry Holt, $16). That's because Welton's book contains some of the best information I've ever read on finding a reputable breeder and avoiding the other kind -- and why that's so important. The fact is, even if you choose the perfect breed of dog for your family, if you get a puppy from a less-than-reputable breeder, you've thrown your hard work out the door. There are scads of clueless and careless people out there who are producing purebreds with shocking health and temperament problems, dogs that will break both your heart and pocketbook. Don't support them!

Whatever kind of pet you're considering, it's so important to take your time and do your homework before making what should be a lifetime commitment. Books like these really help.

Q: Is there a solution I can mix with household supplies to keep the neighbor's dog from using my yard as his bathroom? Some spray that would deter the dog by the smell? My neighbor walks his dog to my back yard and allows him to go to the bathroom there twice a day. I have two German shepherds, and I clean up after my dogs in our own yard. -- D.A., via e-mail

A: Too bad there's nothing you can spray on your neighbor to change his irresponsible and inconsiderate ways. Beyond that, the best I can suggest is talking to him -- if you haven't tried that already -- and asking him to take his dog elsewhere, or a least pick up after the animal.

This is one of those cases where a good fence around your property would make a better neighbor out of this nitwit.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Readers Debate the Merits of Animal Rescue Groups

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 6th, 2003

One thing everyone agrees on when it comes to animal rescue groups and how they operate: Everyone wants what's best for the animals who need new homes.

It's in deciding what's best, however, that well-meaning people part ways.

After my recent column on rescue, in which a reader criticized what she felt were overly intrusive and demanding adoption policies, I asked if these groups are too picky when it comes to placing pets. I heard plenty from pet lovers on both sides of the debate.

Clearly, there's a lot of misunderstanding on the part potential adopters about what rescue groups are trying to accomplish. And there's a lot of mistrust on the part of rescue groups of anyone trying to adopt.

Rescuers want the homeless animals in their care, many of whom have been neglected and sometimes abused, to find permanent, caring homes. They see each animal as an individual, and they see themselves as an advocate on behalf of that animal for finding the "perfect" home. The woman who originally criticized the groups in an e-mail to me characterized some of the people in them as "nuts" for their zeal in achieving this goal, a term some rescue volunteers resented, while others embraced.

"Of course we are nuts!" writes Helen Terwilliger, with the Second Chance Sheltering Network in Buffalo, N.Y. "Who else would be crawling under porches to save starving and abandoned cats and kittens, and trying to coax an abandoned dog with an open can of food in hopes of gaining his trust so that his injured leg can be treated instead of spending time with our family or playing a game of golf? Who else would be doing fund-raisers every weekend to raise money for vet bills to care for society's cast-off animals? Only crazy, dedicated, loving 'nuts.'"

That kind of dedication understandably leads to a high level of emotional involvement with the animals saved by these volunteers. It's only natural that in looking for homes, some groups lean toward people who share their values, sometimes to the point of saying no to anyone who wouldn't care for an animal in exactly the same way, even on issues that offer a wide range of generally accepted care options.

"These rescue groups seem to think that there's only one way to raise an animal -- their way!" writes one frustrated would-be adopter. "I don't think people mind filling out applications for adoptions of pets, or having someone check with their local vet. I don't even think it's too intrusive to ask about previous pets and whether they are still part of the family or what has happened to them. But I draw the line as to personal income questions, working hours, place of employment, personal references and home visits!"

My take on all this? There's truth to the complaints on both sides.

People who are looking to adopt need to understand that rescue groups know their stuff and can make a better match if they know the prospective adopter's situation -- and that means asking a lot of questions. Remember: A good match is to the benefit of the adopter as well as the animal -- no one wants to give an animal back. And if you get turned down repeatedly, you ought to consider the possibility that you shouldn't have a pet before you go to a no-questions-asked source, such as a pet store. Otherwise, the pet you get may end up looking for a home.

Rescue groups, at the very least, could be more civil in the handling of adopters, especially those people they are turning down. Why miss an opportunity to educate? We know you're volunteers, but returning phone calls and e-mails promptly and politely is a must. Groups should be a little more open-minded and flexible, too, in what determines an acceptable home. For every rule you set -- no kids, fenced yard, what-have-you -- I can think of examples of people who break those rules and are wonderful with their pets.

In other words, we all can do better for the animals by being kinder and more understanding to each other. You can see reader comments on this topic -- and add your own -- on my Web site, www.spadafori.com.

THE SCOOP

Some pet beds are -- how can I say this politely? - Tacky and ugly. For people whose taste is a little more refined, there's the Beastly Furnishings Web site (www.beastlyfurnishings.com). Offering pet-sized couches and more, this Nebraska-based company may be just the ticket if you're hoping to keep your pets off the furniture by offering them their own. The stuff is cute, but because furniture for pets trips my silly alarm, I have to recommend that if you can spend hundreds of dollars for a chaise lounge for a pet, you really ought to also send some money to a shelter to help those animals who aren't as spoiled as yours.

PETS ON THE WEB

Standard litter boxes aren't the best choice for every cat. Kittens may find the sides too high, and big cats may find the size too small. Any cat who doesn't find the litter box "just right" may be less inclined to use it, so sometimes it pays to be creative. For kittens, recycling an old square 9-by-9 baking dish may be ideal. Sweater boxes or other plastic storage containers -- with the lids removed, of course -- may work out better for large cats or those whose energetic litter-flinging demands a box with higher side.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A while back you mentioned a vacuum that seemed to work well for you. I'm trying to justify the cost to my husband, and it would be great to hear from someone who has had firsthand experience using the Dyson for pets. We have three dogs and a cat. I want to find something that's easy to run, easy to empty and works great. -- V.F. via e-mail

A: Yes, the Dyson is expensive -- between $400 and $500, depending on the model. It's cheaper than the high-end models, but more expensive than your basic bagless from a good manufacturer.

At that price, I have to admit I wasn't in any hurry to buy one, until yet another vacuum went out on me. I don't know if it's all the pet hair or if I have particularly bad luck with appliances, but over the years my vacuums have seemed to last about two or three years, tops. That includes a variety of top-rated models from brand-name manufacturers, in what seems to be a middle price range of $200 to $300.

On one of the pet-related e-mail lists I'm on, we had a long and sometimes heated discussion on vacuums. I noticed the Dyson being mentioned again and again, with fans who were more dedicated than seemed normal for a vacuum cleaner to have. What's more, they used words like "fun" and "cute" in describing it.

So I bought the basic Dyson, which really is pretty cute, in bright raincoat yellow.

A friend of mine said her Dyson was powerful enough to suck up a small dog, so I made sure the small dog was outside when I turned the vacuum on. The results were impressive: The Dyson sucked a noticeable amount of hair and dirt off a carpet freshly cleaned by a loaner vac, and it was light and easy to maneuver. Also, the canister is easy to remove, empty and replace.

Fun? Well, maybe, but only if you like housekeeping better than I do. The big question is longevity, and I won't know the answer to that for a few years. But so far, I'm happy with the beast. The Dyson also has a purple model called "The Animal," that's designed specifically for animal hair, at about $100 more than the basic one.

Q: We feed our golden retriever raw carrots, broccoli and asparagus stalks, celery and spinach, all of which she eats with apparent pleasure. Some of these certainly help keep her teeth clean and satisfy her need to chew. Any problems you can see? -- L.K., via e-mail

A: Raw vegetables are a wonderful treat. I often recommend carrots as a substitute for biscuits in pets who are pudgy. (Mini rice cakes are another good low-cal treat many dogs enjoy.)

The dogs I have now all love veggies, but not with the enthusiasm of Andy, my dog who died last year at almost 16 years of age. Andy was so passionate for tomatoes that my friends Sue and Ken would bring him a basket from their garden for his birthday.

Lord, I miss that dog!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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