Some of the most interesting people I've met in my years spent writing about pets are those who have turned their passion for animals into their life's work.

When you think about people who make their living working with pets, veterinarians, dog trainers or people who run boarding or pet-sitting businesses probably come to mind. And you'd be right -- these are among the most common and visible of people involved in caring for animals professionally.

But if you poke around at shows or on the Internet, or among those little ads in the back of pet magazines, you'll find a whole world of people who had a good idea for a single well-crafted pet product. Or maybe they have a handful of ideas, and they're working outside the realm of the big chain stores to bring these lovely items to the people and pets who most appreciate them.

They're not outside the superstore system entirely by choice, by the way. With their hand-crafted items they find it difficult break into the "big time," maybe because they can't handle the volume, can't meet the price, or both. So they eke out a living on the edges, providing a small but dedicated pet-loving clientele with some rather nifty goods.

I've run across two such products recently, made by small family businesses owned by people who seem passionate about their pets.

The first product is the Kitty Tease, made by John Galkiewicz's, The Galkie Company. His award-winning "cat fishing pole" toy has been going strong for 20 years. It's sold by mail and at pet shows and endorsed by veterinarians, behaviorists and cats everywhere. Galkiewicz sent me a sample, and it was everything he said the cheap ones were not -- it's made of high-quality materials for years of happy use.

"People ask me, what makes the Kitty Tease so special?" said Galkiewicz. "I tell them, 'it's because it's designed for a cat, not a person or a wallet.'"

Considering that more cats than ever before are staying inside -- a good thing, for their safety and health -- toys are very important to keeping them active and engaged. A toy like this is great fun for both cat and human, keeping the cat from becoming a couch potato and keeping the human from being the object of play attacks.

The Kitty Tease is $10, plus $5 shipping and handling from the company's Web site (www.kittytease.com), by phone (423-869-8138) or by mail (P.O. Box 20, Harrogate, TN 37752).

The Kitty Tease may be too pricey for the chain stores, but it's awfully cheap compared to the spectacular parrot play gyms made by Wayne Gagne of Wayne's Parrot Stuff (www.waynesparrotstuff.com; P.O. Box 848322, Pembroke Pines, FL 33084; tel: (954) 538-1994). That observation is not a knock on the gyms, which are large, wonderfully designed and sturdy play stations for parrots. They're handmade from the foot-friendly, chewable limbs of bottlebrush trees.

I might never have heard of Gagne's gyms had it not been for my friend Ben, whose macaw Courtney is crazy for hers. He told me her personality changes to happy, playful and animated, whenever she goes near it.

With my new parrot, I wanted to try the product out, so I ordered one, along with some toys. Two weeks later the gym arrived, and I set it up in less than 10 minutes. My experience has been the same as Ben's: My little parrot Eddie lights up when I put him on his play gym. He climbs, chews, swings and just loves the freedom of being out of his cage. When I'm home that's usually where you'll find him.

Prices start at around $200 for models made for cockatiels and other small parrots and go up from there, depending on the size and complexity of the play gym and the species for which it's designed. Gagne also offers some marvelous toys made from bottlebrush, cotton rope, wood, leather and other bird-friendly materials, as well as perches, starting at $6 for the smaller perches and climbing to around $160 for a set of toys and perches for large parrots. Great stuff, all of it.

PETS ON THE WEB

I've been meaning to mention the IMOM site (www.imom.org) for ages, after so many readers have pointed it out. Short for "In Memory of Magic" in honor of a special black cat, the site connects pet-loving people with a little money to give with those whose pets have treatable medical conditions they cannot afford to remedy. IMOM is a 501(c)3 charity, and the first person who wrote me about it was someone whose pet had been saved by the group.

THE SCOOP

Wayne Gagne of Wayne's Parrot Stuff passes along a nifty tip for containing parrot mess for easy cleanup -- go to the home-supply store and buy a pan designed for going under a water heater, at a cost of $15 to $20. Designed to contain leaks, the pans will catch anything and everything your bird drops, throws or ... well, you get the point. Buy a couple so you can switch in a fresh pan while you're cleaning the dirty one.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I came across a book I thought was helpful in finding out which dog is the right one for people looking for a pet. It is "Paws To Consider: Choosing the Right Dog for You and Your Family" by Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson (Warner Books, $23).

It lists information for each breed such as: usual pluses, possible drawbacks, height and weight, color, grooming, shedding, training, exercise, children, other pets, bite potential, possible health concerns and special comments. It also breaks down the breeds into categories such as: good dogs that are hard to find, the 9-to-5 dog, the family dog, etc.

I was interested in finding out about greyhounds -- all I had ever heard was good things. I know that all breeds have issues of some kind, health or behavior. This book gave me a good overview. It also helped me know about similar breeds that I may not have known about, such as the whippet and Italian greyhound. This will be helpful when I start looking for a new dog. -- N.M., via e-mail

A: This book is one of my favorites, too. So many breed-selection books seems to bend over backward not to offend people who fancy breeds that really shouldn't be in most homes (either because of temperament issues or such things as super-intensive grooming requirements). These authors pull very few punches, and their candor is just what someone needs before jumping into a breed that might be a horrible mistake for their family. It's an entertaining read, too!

I also like Michele Welton's "Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer's Guide" (Henry Holt, $16). That's because Welton's book contains some of the best information I've ever read on finding a reputable breeder and avoiding the other kind -- and why that's so important. The fact is, even if you choose the perfect breed of dog for your family, if you get a puppy from a less-than-reputable breeder, you've thrown your hard work out the door. There are scads of clueless and careless people out there who are producing purebreds with shocking health and temperament problems, dogs that will break both your heart and pocketbook. Don't support them!

Whatever kind of pet you're considering, it's so important to take your time and do your homework before making what should be a lifetime commitment. Books like these really help.

Q: Is there a solution I can mix with household supplies to keep the neighbor's dog from using my yard as his bathroom? Some spray that would deter the dog by the smell? My neighbor walks his dog to my back yard and allows him to go to the bathroom there twice a day. I have two German shepherds, and I clean up after my dogs in our own yard. -- D.A., via e-mail

A: Too bad there's nothing you can spray on your neighbor to change his irresponsible and inconsiderate ways. Beyond that, the best I can suggest is talking to him -- if you haven't tried that already -- and asking him to take his dog elsewhere, or a least pick up after the animal.

This is one of those cases where a good fence around your property would make a better neighbor out of this nitwit.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One thing everyone agrees on when it comes to animal rescue groups and how they operate: Everyone wants what's best for the animals who need new homes.

It's in deciding what's best, however, that well-meaning people part ways.

After my recent column on rescue, in which a reader criticized what she felt were overly intrusive and demanding adoption policies, I asked if these groups are too picky when it comes to placing pets. I heard plenty from pet lovers on both sides of the debate.

Clearly, there's a lot of misunderstanding on the part potential adopters about what rescue groups are trying to accomplish. And there's a lot of mistrust on the part of rescue groups of anyone trying to adopt.

Rescuers want the homeless animals in their care, many of whom have been neglected and sometimes abused, to find permanent, caring homes. They see each animal as an individual, and they see themselves as an advocate on behalf of that animal for finding the "perfect" home. The woman who originally criticized the groups in an e-mail to me characterized some of the people in them as "nuts" for their zeal in achieving this goal, a term some rescue volunteers resented, while others embraced.

"Of course we are nuts!" writes Helen Terwilliger, with the Second Chance Sheltering Network in Buffalo, N.Y. "Who else would be crawling under porches to save starving and abandoned cats and kittens, and trying to coax an abandoned dog with an open can of food in hopes of gaining his trust so that his injured leg can be treated instead of spending time with our family or playing a game of golf? Who else would be doing fund-raisers every weekend to raise money for vet bills to care for society's cast-off animals? Only crazy, dedicated, loving 'nuts.'"

That kind of dedication understandably leads to a high level of emotional involvement with the animals saved by these volunteers. It's only natural that in looking for homes, some groups lean toward people who share their values, sometimes to the point of saying no to anyone who wouldn't care for an animal in exactly the same way, even on issues that offer a wide range of generally accepted care options.

"These rescue groups seem to think that there's only one way to raise an animal -- their way!" writes one frustrated would-be adopter. "I don't think people mind filling out applications for adoptions of pets, or having someone check with their local vet. I don't even think it's too intrusive to ask about previous pets and whether they are still part of the family or what has happened to them. But I draw the line as to personal income questions, working hours, place of employment, personal references and home visits!"

My take on all this? There's truth to the complaints on both sides.

People who are looking to adopt need to understand that rescue groups know their stuff and can make a better match if they know the prospective adopter's situation -- and that means asking a lot of questions. Remember: A good match is to the benefit of the adopter as well as the animal -- no one wants to give an animal back. And if you get turned down repeatedly, you ought to consider the possibility that you shouldn't have a pet before you go to a no-questions-asked source, such as a pet store. Otherwise, the pet you get may end up looking for a home.

Rescue groups, at the very least, could be more civil in the handling of adopters, especially those people they are turning down. Why miss an opportunity to educate? We know you're volunteers, but returning phone calls and e-mails promptly and politely is a must. Groups should be a little more open-minded and flexible, too, in what determines an acceptable home. For every rule you set -- no kids, fenced yard, what-have-you -- I can think of examples of people who break those rules and are wonderful with their pets.

In other words, we all can do better for the animals by being kinder and more understanding to each other. You can see reader comments on this topic -- and add your own -- on my Web site, www.spadafori.com.

THE SCOOP

Some pet beds are -- how can I say this politely? - Tacky and ugly. For people whose taste is a little more refined, there's the Beastly Furnishings Web site (www.beastlyfurnishings.com). Offering pet-sized couches and more, this Nebraska-based company may be just the ticket if you're hoping to keep your pets off the furniture by offering them their own. The stuff is cute, but because furniture for pets trips my silly alarm, I have to recommend that if you can spend hundreds of dollars for a chaise lounge for a pet, you really ought to also send some money to a shelter to help those animals who aren't as spoiled as yours.

PETS ON THE WEB

Standard litter boxes aren't the best choice for every cat. Kittens may find the sides too high, and big cats may find the size too small. Any cat who doesn't find the litter box "just right" may be less inclined to use it, so sometimes it pays to be creative. For kittens, recycling an old square 9-by-9 baking dish may be ideal. Sweater boxes or other plastic storage containers -- with the lids removed, of course -- may work out better for large cats or those whose energetic litter-flinging demands a box with higher side.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A while back you mentioned a vacuum that seemed to work well for you. I'm trying to justify the cost to my husband, and it would be great to hear from someone who has had firsthand experience using the Dyson for pets. We have three dogs and a cat. I want to find something that's easy to run, easy to empty and works great. -- V.F. via e-mail

A: Yes, the Dyson is expensive -- between $400 and $500, depending on the model. It's cheaper than the high-end models, but more expensive than your basic bagless from a good manufacturer.

At that price, I have to admit I wasn't in any hurry to buy one, until yet another vacuum went out on me. I don't know if it's all the pet hair or if I have particularly bad luck with appliances, but over the years my vacuums have seemed to last about two or three years, tops. That includes a variety of top-rated models from brand-name manufacturers, in what seems to be a middle price range of $200 to $300.

On one of the pet-related e-mail lists I'm on, we had a long and sometimes heated discussion on vacuums. I noticed the Dyson being mentioned again and again, with fans who were more dedicated than seemed normal for a vacuum cleaner to have. What's more, they used words like "fun" and "cute" in describing it.

So I bought the basic Dyson, which really is pretty cute, in bright raincoat yellow.

A friend of mine said her Dyson was powerful enough to suck up a small dog, so I made sure the small dog was outside when I turned the vacuum on. The results were impressive: The Dyson sucked a noticeable amount of hair and dirt off a carpet freshly cleaned by a loaner vac, and it was light and easy to maneuver. Also, the canister is easy to remove, empty and replace.

Fun? Well, maybe, but only if you like housekeeping better than I do. The big question is longevity, and I won't know the answer to that for a few years. But so far, I'm happy with the beast. The Dyson also has a purple model called "The Animal," that's designed specifically for animal hair, at about $100 more than the basic one.

Q: We feed our golden retriever raw carrots, broccoli and asparagus stalks, celery and spinach, all of which she eats with apparent pleasure. Some of these certainly help keep her teeth clean and satisfy her need to chew. Any problems you can see? -- L.K., via e-mail

A: Raw vegetables are a wonderful treat. I often recommend carrots as a substitute for biscuits in pets who are pudgy. (Mini rice cakes are another good low-cal treat many dogs enjoy.)

The dogs I have now all love veggies, but not with the enthusiasm of Andy, my dog who died last year at almost 16 years of age. Andy was so passionate for tomatoes that my friends Sue and Ken would bring him a basket from their garden for his birthday.

Lord, I miss that dog!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Looking for solid proof that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? Spend the Fourth of July at an emergency veterinary clinic.

I did exactly that a few years back, and it was an eye-opener. The sad stream of animals hit by cars, cut by jumping through windows and knocked down by heat made an impression that I've never forgotten. Almost every animal I saw wouldn't have needed to be there if someone had been just a little more careful.

This year, the Fourth falls on a Friday, which means many people will be making a three-day celebration of it -- and that the folks in the emergency veterinary clinics are in for a very long, hard weekend.

It doesn't take much to help ensure that your pet won't be one of those in need of medical assistance. A few common-sense precautions will go a long way toward making the holiday safer for your pet.

First, make sure your pets are secure when the noise begins, since scared pets are more likely to bolt and be hit by cars or lost forever. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that a panicked pet could open up with a little digging? Fix them all. Better still, bring all your pets inside and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things.

Always assume your pet may become lost and plan accordingly. Collars and tags serve as tickets home for lost pets; for extra insurance, add a microchip and a lost pet service like 1-800-Help4Pets (www.help4pets.com), which will issue an authorization for your pet's emergency care or boarding if you cannot be found. Some people worry about the safety of collars on their cats, but one look at all the healthy, well-fed, obviously lost pets in any shelter -- many of whom will never find their way home -- will tell you that the benefits of a collar and tag far outweigh the risks.

Heat is a summer problem that seems to be worse on the Fourth of July, when many people take their dogs along to outdoor events. Don't let having a good time distract you from keeping an eye on your dog. Be sure he isn't exercising too much in the heat, that he's staying in the shade as much as possible and that he's getting lots of water. And of course, your dog should never be left in a car, even with the windows cracked, on any warm day -- even a few minutes could be deadly.

While you're planning for prevention, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency, just in case. Does your veterinary hospital staff for around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure that if your veterinarian refers after-hours care to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and how to get there.

Finally, if you've got a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian in advance about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet. Some pet lovers also report good results from the homeopathic preparation Rescue Remedy, which should be available at any health-food store.

THE SCOOP

Frantic panting and glassy eyes are signs of an overheated dog who needs help -- fast. While some sources recommend using ice to cool down a dog, emergency-care veterinarians say that's dangerous. Instead, apply as much cool -- not ice-cold -- water as you can to your dog's body, and get him to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Heat stress is not something to wait out, hoping your pet will "get better." Older or obese dogs, or short-nosed dogs such as pugs or boxers, are at the greatest risk, as are those with dark coats such as rottweilers or black Labradors.

PETS ON THE WEB

When you ask pet-loving children what they want to be when they grow up, chances are pretty good they'll say "veterinarian." Most will change their minds along the way, and others who want to pursue that career won't make it -- more than two-thirds of those applying to a college or school of veterinary medicine won't be accepted. The Association of American Veterinary Medical Colleges Web site (www.aavmc.org) provides statistical information on who gets into veterinary colleges, as well as offering advice on how students interested in becoming a veterinarian can better prepare themselves for the rigors ahead.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our adult kids will be staying with us for a while this summer, along with their two cats. We do not have cats, only our cocker spaniel, Holly. I'm not at all worried about Holly relating to the cats, because she has been around other animals a lot and had a cat "sister" for 13 years.

What I am worried about is my house and furniture. I don't want cat hair everywhere, or the cats doing their "business" on our carpet.

I read your article about getting cats used to a new environment by putting them in a room alone and visiting them regularly until they get used to being in a new place. We all agree on this. However, I know the kids will sooner, not later, want the cats to have full run of the house, and I'm not eager to allow that.

We live in a new two-story home with an unfinished basement. I would like the basement to be the cat room and the kids seem OK with that, but not long-term. Obviously, I can keep some doors closed, but there are living spaces with no doors that I do not want them in.

I really don't want this to become an issue, but I have a feeling I'm going to be the "bad guy" here. Any suggestions on how to make the "grand-kitty" visit non-controversial? -- R.D., via e-mail

A: If you're going to insist the cats stay in the basement while your adult children are demanding that they be let upstairs, you're going to have conflict, no doubt about it. How important it is for you to stick to your guns is something only you can decide.

You've offered them a reasonable compromise, a secure and comfortable place in the basement for the length of the visit. With the addition of soft bedding, a scratching post and some toys, the space can be turned into a very satisfactory space for the cats, especially considering they'll be getting lots of visitors down there if you put your foot down on the house rules.

I grew up with parents who considered a single dog to be more than enough pets -- and sometimes too many. Their last "family dog" died almost 20 years ago, and since then my parents haven't had the slightest desire to have anything furry in their home.

They like their house clean, and they like it quiet. I personally don't value those things over the pleasures of living with pets, but what I think doesn't much matter in this regard. It's their home, and they get to decide what's right for them.

Because of their preferences, when I visit my parents I leave my pets at home. I wouldn't consider being so rude as to impose my pets on people who don't want them around -- even if those people just happen to be related to me.

It's too bad your children aren't equally respectful of your wishes.

Q: At our veterinary hospital, one of the doctors has letters after his name that we haven't seen before. Most have DVM after their names, which we know to be Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. He has MRCVS after his. What does that mean? -- G.P., via e-mail

A: MRCVS stands for Member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and indicates a veterinarian who was accredited -- and probably trained -- in the United Kingdom.

While most veterinarians working in Canada and the United States are DVMs, you might also bump into one who has VMD after his or her name. The letters stand for the Latin words for Veterinary Medical Doctor, and is a degree awarded by the University of Pennsylvania's veterinary school. When you see VMD after a veterinarian's name, you know without asking that the person is a graduate of that university's veterinary program -- and surely proud of it!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600