pets

Readers Debate the Merits of Animal Rescue Groups

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 6th, 2003

One thing everyone agrees on when it comes to animal rescue groups and how they operate: Everyone wants what's best for the animals who need new homes.

It's in deciding what's best, however, that well-meaning people part ways.

After my recent column on rescue, in which a reader criticized what she felt were overly intrusive and demanding adoption policies, I asked if these groups are too picky when it comes to placing pets. I heard plenty from pet lovers on both sides of the debate.

Clearly, there's a lot of misunderstanding on the part potential adopters about what rescue groups are trying to accomplish. And there's a lot of mistrust on the part of rescue groups of anyone trying to adopt.

Rescuers want the homeless animals in their care, many of whom have been neglected and sometimes abused, to find permanent, caring homes. They see each animal as an individual, and they see themselves as an advocate on behalf of that animal for finding the "perfect" home. The woman who originally criticized the groups in an e-mail to me characterized some of the people in them as "nuts" for their zeal in achieving this goal, a term some rescue volunteers resented, while others embraced.

"Of course we are nuts!" writes Helen Terwilliger, with the Second Chance Sheltering Network in Buffalo, N.Y. "Who else would be crawling under porches to save starving and abandoned cats and kittens, and trying to coax an abandoned dog with an open can of food in hopes of gaining his trust so that his injured leg can be treated instead of spending time with our family or playing a game of golf? Who else would be doing fund-raisers every weekend to raise money for vet bills to care for society's cast-off animals? Only crazy, dedicated, loving 'nuts.'"

That kind of dedication understandably leads to a high level of emotional involvement with the animals saved by these volunteers. It's only natural that in looking for homes, some groups lean toward people who share their values, sometimes to the point of saying no to anyone who wouldn't care for an animal in exactly the same way, even on issues that offer a wide range of generally accepted care options.

"These rescue groups seem to think that there's only one way to raise an animal -- their way!" writes one frustrated would-be adopter. "I don't think people mind filling out applications for adoptions of pets, or having someone check with their local vet. I don't even think it's too intrusive to ask about previous pets and whether they are still part of the family or what has happened to them. But I draw the line as to personal income questions, working hours, place of employment, personal references and home visits!"

My take on all this? There's truth to the complaints on both sides.

People who are looking to adopt need to understand that rescue groups know their stuff and can make a better match if they know the prospective adopter's situation -- and that means asking a lot of questions. Remember: A good match is to the benefit of the adopter as well as the animal -- no one wants to give an animal back. And if you get turned down repeatedly, you ought to consider the possibility that you shouldn't have a pet before you go to a no-questions-asked source, such as a pet store. Otherwise, the pet you get may end up looking for a home.

Rescue groups, at the very least, could be more civil in the handling of adopters, especially those people they are turning down. Why miss an opportunity to educate? We know you're volunteers, but returning phone calls and e-mails promptly and politely is a must. Groups should be a little more open-minded and flexible, too, in what determines an acceptable home. For every rule you set -- no kids, fenced yard, what-have-you -- I can think of examples of people who break those rules and are wonderful with their pets.

In other words, we all can do better for the animals by being kinder and more understanding to each other. You can see reader comments on this topic -- and add your own -- on my Web site, www.spadafori.com.

THE SCOOP

Some pet beds are -- how can I say this politely? - Tacky and ugly. For people whose taste is a little more refined, there's the Beastly Furnishings Web site (www.beastlyfurnishings.com). Offering pet-sized couches and more, this Nebraska-based company may be just the ticket if you're hoping to keep your pets off the furniture by offering them their own. The stuff is cute, but because furniture for pets trips my silly alarm, I have to recommend that if you can spend hundreds of dollars for a chaise lounge for a pet, you really ought to also send some money to a shelter to help those animals who aren't as spoiled as yours.

PETS ON THE WEB

Standard litter boxes aren't the best choice for every cat. Kittens may find the sides too high, and big cats may find the size too small. Any cat who doesn't find the litter box "just right" may be less inclined to use it, so sometimes it pays to be creative. For kittens, recycling an old square 9-by-9 baking dish may be ideal. Sweater boxes or other plastic storage containers -- with the lids removed, of course -- may work out better for large cats or those whose energetic litter-flinging demands a box with higher side.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A while back you mentioned a vacuum that seemed to work well for you. I'm trying to justify the cost to my husband, and it would be great to hear from someone who has had firsthand experience using the Dyson for pets. We have three dogs and a cat. I want to find something that's easy to run, easy to empty and works great. -- V.F. via e-mail

A: Yes, the Dyson is expensive -- between $400 and $500, depending on the model. It's cheaper than the high-end models, but more expensive than your basic bagless from a good manufacturer.

At that price, I have to admit I wasn't in any hurry to buy one, until yet another vacuum went out on me. I don't know if it's all the pet hair or if I have particularly bad luck with appliances, but over the years my vacuums have seemed to last about two or three years, tops. That includes a variety of top-rated models from brand-name manufacturers, in what seems to be a middle price range of $200 to $300.

On one of the pet-related e-mail lists I'm on, we had a long and sometimes heated discussion on vacuums. I noticed the Dyson being mentioned again and again, with fans who were more dedicated than seemed normal for a vacuum cleaner to have. What's more, they used words like "fun" and "cute" in describing it.

So I bought the basic Dyson, which really is pretty cute, in bright raincoat yellow.

A friend of mine said her Dyson was powerful enough to suck up a small dog, so I made sure the small dog was outside when I turned the vacuum on. The results were impressive: The Dyson sucked a noticeable amount of hair and dirt off a carpet freshly cleaned by a loaner vac, and it was light and easy to maneuver. Also, the canister is easy to remove, empty and replace.

Fun? Well, maybe, but only if you like housekeeping better than I do. The big question is longevity, and I won't know the answer to that for a few years. But so far, I'm happy with the beast. The Dyson also has a purple model called "The Animal," that's designed specifically for animal hair, at about $100 more than the basic one.

Q: We feed our golden retriever raw carrots, broccoli and asparagus stalks, celery and spinach, all of which she eats with apparent pleasure. Some of these certainly help keep her teeth clean and satisfy her need to chew. Any problems you can see? -- L.K., via e-mail

A: Raw vegetables are a wonderful treat. I often recommend carrots as a substitute for biscuits in pets who are pudgy. (Mini rice cakes are another good low-cal treat many dogs enjoy.)

The dogs I have now all love veggies, but not with the enthusiasm of Andy, my dog who died last year at almost 16 years of age. Andy was so passionate for tomatoes that my friends Sue and Ken would bring him a basket from their garden for his birthday.

Lord, I miss that dog!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Use Extra Caution on Independence Day

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | June 29th, 2003

Looking for solid proof that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? Spend the Fourth of July at an emergency veterinary clinic.

I did exactly that a few years back, and it was an eye-opener. The sad stream of animals hit by cars, cut by jumping through windows and knocked down by heat made an impression that I've never forgotten. Almost every animal I saw wouldn't have needed to be there if someone had been just a little more careful.

This year, the Fourth falls on a Friday, which means many people will be making a three-day celebration of it -- and that the folks in the emergency veterinary clinics are in for a very long, hard weekend.

It doesn't take much to help ensure that your pet won't be one of those in need of medical assistance. A few common-sense precautions will go a long way toward making the holiday safer for your pet.

First, make sure your pets are secure when the noise begins, since scared pets are more likely to bolt and be hit by cars or lost forever. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that a panicked pet could open up with a little digging? Fix them all. Better still, bring all your pets inside and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things.

Always assume your pet may become lost and plan accordingly. Collars and tags serve as tickets home for lost pets; for extra insurance, add a microchip and a lost pet service like 1-800-Help4Pets (www.help4pets.com), which will issue an authorization for your pet's emergency care or boarding if you cannot be found. Some people worry about the safety of collars on their cats, but one look at all the healthy, well-fed, obviously lost pets in any shelter -- many of whom will never find their way home -- will tell you that the benefits of a collar and tag far outweigh the risks.

Heat is a summer problem that seems to be worse on the Fourth of July, when many people take their dogs along to outdoor events. Don't let having a good time distract you from keeping an eye on your dog. Be sure he isn't exercising too much in the heat, that he's staying in the shade as much as possible and that he's getting lots of water. And of course, your dog should never be left in a car, even with the windows cracked, on any warm day -- even a few minutes could be deadly.

While you're planning for prevention, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency, just in case. Does your veterinary hospital staff for around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure that if your veterinarian refers after-hours care to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and how to get there.

Finally, if you've got a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian in advance about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet. Some pet lovers also report good results from the homeopathic preparation Rescue Remedy, which should be available at any health-food store.

THE SCOOP

Frantic panting and glassy eyes are signs of an overheated dog who needs help -- fast. While some sources recommend using ice to cool down a dog, emergency-care veterinarians say that's dangerous. Instead, apply as much cool -- not ice-cold -- water as you can to your dog's body, and get him to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Heat stress is not something to wait out, hoping your pet will "get better." Older or obese dogs, or short-nosed dogs such as pugs or boxers, are at the greatest risk, as are those with dark coats such as rottweilers or black Labradors.

PETS ON THE WEB

When you ask pet-loving children what they want to be when they grow up, chances are pretty good they'll say "veterinarian." Most will change their minds along the way, and others who want to pursue that career won't make it -- more than two-thirds of those applying to a college or school of veterinary medicine won't be accepted. The Association of American Veterinary Medical Colleges Web site (www.aavmc.org) provides statistical information on who gets into veterinary colleges, as well as offering advice on how students interested in becoming a veterinarian can better prepare themselves for the rigors ahead.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our adult kids will be staying with us for a while this summer, along with their two cats. We do not have cats, only our cocker spaniel, Holly. I'm not at all worried about Holly relating to the cats, because she has been around other animals a lot and had a cat "sister" for 13 years.

What I am worried about is my house and furniture. I don't want cat hair everywhere, or the cats doing their "business" on our carpet.

I read your article about getting cats used to a new environment by putting them in a room alone and visiting them regularly until they get used to being in a new place. We all agree on this. However, I know the kids will sooner, not later, want the cats to have full run of the house, and I'm not eager to allow that.

We live in a new two-story home with an unfinished basement. I would like the basement to be the cat room and the kids seem OK with that, but not long-term. Obviously, I can keep some doors closed, but there are living spaces with no doors that I do not want them in.

I really don't want this to become an issue, but I have a feeling I'm going to be the "bad guy" here. Any suggestions on how to make the "grand-kitty" visit non-controversial? -- R.D., via e-mail

A: If you're going to insist the cats stay in the basement while your adult children are demanding that they be let upstairs, you're going to have conflict, no doubt about it. How important it is for you to stick to your guns is something only you can decide.

You've offered them a reasonable compromise, a secure and comfortable place in the basement for the length of the visit. With the addition of soft bedding, a scratching post and some toys, the space can be turned into a very satisfactory space for the cats, especially considering they'll be getting lots of visitors down there if you put your foot down on the house rules.

I grew up with parents who considered a single dog to be more than enough pets -- and sometimes too many. Their last "family dog" died almost 20 years ago, and since then my parents haven't had the slightest desire to have anything furry in their home.

They like their house clean, and they like it quiet. I personally don't value those things over the pleasures of living with pets, but what I think doesn't much matter in this regard. It's their home, and they get to decide what's right for them.

Because of their preferences, when I visit my parents I leave my pets at home. I wouldn't consider being so rude as to impose my pets on people who don't want them around -- even if those people just happen to be related to me.

It's too bad your children aren't equally respectful of your wishes.

Q: At our veterinary hospital, one of the doctors has letters after his name that we haven't seen before. Most have DVM after their names, which we know to be Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. He has MRCVS after his. What does that mean? -- G.P., via e-mail

A: MRCVS stands for Member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and indicates a veterinarian who was accredited -- and probably trained -- in the United Kingdom.

While most veterinarians working in Canada and the United States are DVMs, you might also bump into one who has VMD after his or her name. The letters stand for the Latin words for Veterinary Medical Doctor, and is a degree awarded by the University of Pennsylvania's veterinary school. When you see VMD after a veterinarian's name, you know without asking that the person is a graduate of that university's veterinary program -- and surely proud of it!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Money Saving Ideas May Be Bad for Your Pets

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | June 22nd, 2003

When shopping for a new one, ask yourself if a more economical model will meet your needs. And before you buy, be sure to check how often the brands you're considering are likely to break down.

When repairs are needed, shop aggressively to find less-expensive alternatives, and buy any necessary parts and maintenance supplies from discount retailers, catalogs or Internet merchants, not from the person who's doing the repairs.

And remember: Sometimes it's cheaper to buy new than repair old.

This is all great advice when you're talking about a car, but it doesn't ring true when you're talking about a member of your family. And "family" is exactly what many people consider their pets to be.

And yet, in the July edition of Consumer Reports, a package of articles attempting to help pet lovers save money on their veterinary bills takes just such an approach. Treat your pet like your car, and treat your veterinarian like a mechanic.

It's bad advice for the health and well-being of your pet.

It's not a bad thing to make money -- this is America, after all -- and veterinarians ought to be able to earn a living that's somewhat in line with the years of hard work and education that went into getting their degree. Consumer Reports says that veterinary costs have been rising, but the fact is that they've been low for decades.

The tone of the article suggests that procedures costing thousands to tens of thousands of dollars in human medicine are a rip-off at a price of several hundred dollars when performed by a veterinarian. But the procedures, and some of the costs that go into performing them, can be the same.

The magazine also suggests that veterinarians push diagnostic tests to increase the bottom line. In some cases and in some places, the magazine may be right. But I shake my head when people complain to me about a veterinarian who wants to screen for disease before anesthesia or prescribing powerful medications with side effects that have been known to be lethal to animals with certain health conditions.

If your physician didn't insist on such screening and something went wrong, he'd be facing a lawsuit or even prosecution. But too often when a veterinarian attempts to practice a good standard of medicine, he's accused of padding the bill.

If you want good medicine for your pet, you need to know what it is, and you need to be willing to pay for it. On the other hand, there are some trends in veterinary medicine that every pet lover needs to know about.

Veterinarians who own their own practices are constantly pitched by consultants who want to teach them to be more businesslike, often by adding to the bottom line by pushing procedures and products. There's even a magazine -- Veterinary Economics -- dedicated to making veterinarians better at making money. I've read it, and sometimes it makes me cringe. I do know, however, that a lot of what's promoted by these sources sometimes makes good veterinarians cringe, as well.

Know too, that for veterinarians in some practices there is no option to pushing these bottom-line enhancers, and they don't have the power to cut costs. They're relatively low-paid employees of practices managed by people far removed from the heartbreak of someone with a seriously ill pet and little money. These employee veterinarians are often given revenue targets they must meet -- or else.

So what should you do? Some of the information Consumer Reports offers is absolutely right, especially when it comes to preventive care. Choose purebreds from reputable breeders or mixed breeds to minimize the possibility of congenital health problems. Keep your pet at a proper weight with good nutrition and exercise, and make sure the animal stays free of parasites. Alter your pet to prevent certain cancers, communicable diseases and injuries related to fighting or roaming. Prevent accidents by keeping your cat inside and your dog on leash or behind a fence.

As for a veterinarian, find one who deserves your respect, and then show some respect. Educate yourself about good medicine and build a trusting relationship with a veterinarian who's trying hard to practice it. Make each conversation with your veterinarian about medicine first and money second, and you'll get a better result, both in the short term and in the long. Your veterinarian knows costs matter, and you don't have to hammer him over the head with that fact again and again.

But if all you care about is money, then Consumer Reports sums it up for you at the end of its piece: Euthanasia will cost you about $50. Less if (as the magazine pushes so strongly) you shop around.

THE SCOOP

One thing Consumer Reports is dead-on right about: It's time for veterinarians to get out of the pharmacy business. A convenience for pet lovers and a part of the revenue stream for veterinarians, the practice of selling both prescription and nonprescription medications (along with food, leashes, chew toys, etc.) has long appeared a conflict of interest, even in the best of practices.

Veterinarians will argue -- and they're absolutely right -- that the markups on these items help keep down other costs. But outside pressures from superstore retailers and Internet pharmacies are forcing an end to this business model, and veterinarians need to seize the opportunity for change.

You should indeed look to pay less for the products your pet needs, but the tradeoff is that you must also be willing to pay more for your veterinarian's advice, which has long been subsidized by markups on medications, vaccines and the like. Veterinarians ought to be happy to shed the conflict of interest that selling drugs presents, and put their efforts toward getting their clients to see them as the professionals they are, not the marketing machines practice-management consultants are pushing them to be.

PETS ON THE WEB

Knowledge is never a bad thing, which is why I glad to see the Consumer Reports package include a note about one of my favorite pet-related Web sites. The Merck Veterinary Manual (www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp) is an incredible resource that's even more remarkable because it's absolutely free. When I started writing this column, I had to drive to the library at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine to look up information of this caliber. Now, it's a few keystrokes away. Wow.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am part of a breed-specific rescue group. While in foster care we work with each dog in an effort to evaluate temperament and improve upon the skills they are missing, which frequently include lack of proper socialization and obedience training.

Occasionally we have been criticized by adoption candidates because we were being too intrusive. When we explain that our goal is to make a good match between dog and adopter, and that doing so requires information about each of them, they usually accept the process.

We consider ourselves to be educators. When a dog is placed, we maintain contact with the adopter in order to support them during the transition period, and are always available to offer guidance related to health and training. -- Leanne Loza, DogWorks Canine Rescue (www.dogworks.org), Sacramento, Calif.

Q: I was rejected for adoption of a dog from a rescue group. I am a veterinary technician with eight pets. I was never given a reason for the denial, only told that I didn't qualify. The whole process took about a month. There was a five-page application, then a home inspection and an interview by phone.

I felt humiliated that a person with my background would be denied. I now have a bad feeling about adopting through rescue. I just can't believe I would have to go through all that work to adopt when I could spend roughly the same amount of money to buy a puppy and not have the hassle. -- D.U., via e-mail

A: The rescue debate rages on! I'll be writing a follow-up to my rescue column soon. In the meantime, read what other pet lovers are saying and let me know what you think on this subject. You'll find the link on my Web site, at www.spadafori.com. (The longer versions of both of these letters are there, as well.)

In the meantime, in reading all the letters that have been sent me, it's clear that a little tact and understanding -- on both sides -- would go a long, long way toward better serving the animals who need help.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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