Looking for solid proof that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? Spend the Fourth of July at an emergency veterinary clinic.

I did exactly that a few years back, and it was an eye-opener. The sad stream of animals hit by cars, cut by jumping through windows and knocked down by heat made an impression that I've never forgotten. Almost every animal I saw wouldn't have needed to be there if someone had been just a little more careful.

This year, the Fourth falls on a Friday, which means many people will be making a three-day celebration of it -- and that the folks in the emergency veterinary clinics are in for a very long, hard weekend.

It doesn't take much to help ensure that your pet won't be one of those in need of medical assistance. A few common-sense precautions will go a long way toward making the holiday safer for your pet.

First, make sure your pets are secure when the noise begins, since scared pets are more likely to bolt and be hit by cars or lost forever. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that a panicked pet could open up with a little digging? Fix them all. Better still, bring all your pets inside and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things.

Always assume your pet may become lost and plan accordingly. Collars and tags serve as tickets home for lost pets; for extra insurance, add a microchip and a lost pet service like 1-800-Help4Pets (www.help4pets.com), which will issue an authorization for your pet's emergency care or boarding if you cannot be found. Some people worry about the safety of collars on their cats, but one look at all the healthy, well-fed, obviously lost pets in any shelter -- many of whom will never find their way home -- will tell you that the benefits of a collar and tag far outweigh the risks.

Heat is a summer problem that seems to be worse on the Fourth of July, when many people take their dogs along to outdoor events. Don't let having a good time distract you from keeping an eye on your dog. Be sure he isn't exercising too much in the heat, that he's staying in the shade as much as possible and that he's getting lots of water. And of course, your dog should never be left in a car, even with the windows cracked, on any warm day -- even a few minutes could be deadly.

While you're planning for prevention, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency, just in case. Does your veterinary hospital staff for around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure that if your veterinarian refers after-hours care to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and how to get there.

Finally, if you've got a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian in advance about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet. Some pet lovers also report good results from the homeopathic preparation Rescue Remedy, which should be available at any health-food store.

THE SCOOP

Frantic panting and glassy eyes are signs of an overheated dog who needs help -- fast. While some sources recommend using ice to cool down a dog, emergency-care veterinarians say that's dangerous. Instead, apply as much cool -- not ice-cold -- water as you can to your dog's body, and get him to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Heat stress is not something to wait out, hoping your pet will "get better." Older or obese dogs, or short-nosed dogs such as pugs or boxers, are at the greatest risk, as are those with dark coats such as rottweilers or black Labradors.

PETS ON THE WEB

When you ask pet-loving children what they want to be when they grow up, chances are pretty good they'll say "veterinarian." Most will change their minds along the way, and others who want to pursue that career won't make it -- more than two-thirds of those applying to a college or school of veterinary medicine won't be accepted. The Association of American Veterinary Medical Colleges Web site (www.aavmc.org) provides statistical information on who gets into veterinary colleges, as well as offering advice on how students interested in becoming a veterinarian can better prepare themselves for the rigors ahead.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our adult kids will be staying with us for a while this summer, along with their two cats. We do not have cats, only our cocker spaniel, Holly. I'm not at all worried about Holly relating to the cats, because she has been around other animals a lot and had a cat "sister" for 13 years.

What I am worried about is my house and furniture. I don't want cat hair everywhere, or the cats doing their "business" on our carpet.

I read your article about getting cats used to a new environment by putting them in a room alone and visiting them regularly until they get used to being in a new place. We all agree on this. However, I know the kids will sooner, not later, want the cats to have full run of the house, and I'm not eager to allow that.

We live in a new two-story home with an unfinished basement. I would like the basement to be the cat room and the kids seem OK with that, but not long-term. Obviously, I can keep some doors closed, but there are living spaces with no doors that I do not want them in.

I really don't want this to become an issue, but I have a feeling I'm going to be the "bad guy" here. Any suggestions on how to make the "grand-kitty" visit non-controversial? -- R.D., via e-mail

A: If you're going to insist the cats stay in the basement while your adult children are demanding that they be let upstairs, you're going to have conflict, no doubt about it. How important it is for you to stick to your guns is something only you can decide.

You've offered them a reasonable compromise, a secure and comfortable place in the basement for the length of the visit. With the addition of soft bedding, a scratching post and some toys, the space can be turned into a very satisfactory space for the cats, especially considering they'll be getting lots of visitors down there if you put your foot down on the house rules.

I grew up with parents who considered a single dog to be more than enough pets -- and sometimes too many. Their last "family dog" died almost 20 years ago, and since then my parents haven't had the slightest desire to have anything furry in their home.

They like their house clean, and they like it quiet. I personally don't value those things over the pleasures of living with pets, but what I think doesn't much matter in this regard. It's their home, and they get to decide what's right for them.

Because of their preferences, when I visit my parents I leave my pets at home. I wouldn't consider being so rude as to impose my pets on people who don't want them around -- even if those people just happen to be related to me.

It's too bad your children aren't equally respectful of your wishes.

Q: At our veterinary hospital, one of the doctors has letters after his name that we haven't seen before. Most have DVM after their names, which we know to be Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. He has MRCVS after his. What does that mean? -- G.P., via e-mail

A: MRCVS stands for Member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and indicates a veterinarian who was accredited -- and probably trained -- in the United Kingdom.

While most veterinarians working in Canada and the United States are DVMs, you might also bump into one who has VMD after his or her name. The letters stand for the Latin words for Veterinary Medical Doctor, and is a degree awarded by the University of Pennsylvania's veterinary school. When you see VMD after a veterinarian's name, you know without asking that the person is a graduate of that university's veterinary program -- and surely proud of it!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When shopping for a new one, ask yourself if a more economical model will meet your needs. And before you buy, be sure to check how often the brands you're considering are likely to break down.

When repairs are needed, shop aggressively to find less-expensive alternatives, and buy any necessary parts and maintenance supplies from discount retailers, catalogs or Internet merchants, not from the person who's doing the repairs.

And remember: Sometimes it's cheaper to buy new than repair old.

This is all great advice when you're talking about a car, but it doesn't ring true when you're talking about a member of your family. And "family" is exactly what many people consider their pets to be.

And yet, in the July edition of Consumer Reports, a package of articles attempting to help pet lovers save money on their veterinary bills takes just such an approach. Treat your pet like your car, and treat your veterinarian like a mechanic.

It's bad advice for the health and well-being of your pet.

It's not a bad thing to make money -- this is America, after all -- and veterinarians ought to be able to earn a living that's somewhat in line with the years of hard work and education that went into getting their degree. Consumer Reports says that veterinary costs have been rising, but the fact is that they've been low for decades.

The tone of the article suggests that procedures costing thousands to tens of thousands of dollars in human medicine are a rip-off at a price of several hundred dollars when performed by a veterinarian. But the procedures, and some of the costs that go into performing them, can be the same.

The magazine also suggests that veterinarians push diagnostic tests to increase the bottom line. In some cases and in some places, the magazine may be right. But I shake my head when people complain to me about a veterinarian who wants to screen for disease before anesthesia or prescribing powerful medications with side effects that have been known to be lethal to animals with certain health conditions.

If your physician didn't insist on such screening and something went wrong, he'd be facing a lawsuit or even prosecution. But too often when a veterinarian attempts to practice a good standard of medicine, he's accused of padding the bill.

If you want good medicine for your pet, you need to know what it is, and you need to be willing to pay for it. On the other hand, there are some trends in veterinary medicine that every pet lover needs to know about.

Veterinarians who own their own practices are constantly pitched by consultants who want to teach them to be more businesslike, often by adding to the bottom line by pushing procedures and products. There's even a magazine -- Veterinary Economics -- dedicated to making veterinarians better at making money. I've read it, and sometimes it makes me cringe. I do know, however, that a lot of what's promoted by these sources sometimes makes good veterinarians cringe, as well.

Know too, that for veterinarians in some practices there is no option to pushing these bottom-line enhancers, and they don't have the power to cut costs. They're relatively low-paid employees of practices managed by people far removed from the heartbreak of someone with a seriously ill pet and little money. These employee veterinarians are often given revenue targets they must meet -- or else.

So what should you do? Some of the information Consumer Reports offers is absolutely right, especially when it comes to preventive care. Choose purebreds from reputable breeders or mixed breeds to minimize the possibility of congenital health problems. Keep your pet at a proper weight with good nutrition and exercise, and make sure the animal stays free of parasites. Alter your pet to prevent certain cancers, communicable diseases and injuries related to fighting or roaming. Prevent accidents by keeping your cat inside and your dog on leash or behind a fence.

As for a veterinarian, find one who deserves your respect, and then show some respect. Educate yourself about good medicine and build a trusting relationship with a veterinarian who's trying hard to practice it. Make each conversation with your veterinarian about medicine first and money second, and you'll get a better result, both in the short term and in the long. Your veterinarian knows costs matter, and you don't have to hammer him over the head with that fact again and again.

But if all you care about is money, then Consumer Reports sums it up for you at the end of its piece: Euthanasia will cost you about $50. Less if (as the magazine pushes so strongly) you shop around.

THE SCOOP

One thing Consumer Reports is dead-on right about: It's time for veterinarians to get out of the pharmacy business. A convenience for pet lovers and a part of the revenue stream for veterinarians, the practice of selling both prescription and nonprescription medications (along with food, leashes, chew toys, etc.) has long appeared a conflict of interest, even in the best of practices.

Veterinarians will argue -- and they're absolutely right -- that the markups on these items help keep down other costs. But outside pressures from superstore retailers and Internet pharmacies are forcing an end to this business model, and veterinarians need to seize the opportunity for change.

You should indeed look to pay less for the products your pet needs, but the tradeoff is that you must also be willing to pay more for your veterinarian's advice, which has long been subsidized by markups on medications, vaccines and the like. Veterinarians ought to be happy to shed the conflict of interest that selling drugs presents, and put their efforts toward getting their clients to see them as the professionals they are, not the marketing machines practice-management consultants are pushing them to be.

PETS ON THE WEB

Knowledge is never a bad thing, which is why I glad to see the Consumer Reports package include a note about one of my favorite pet-related Web sites. The Merck Veterinary Manual (www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp) is an incredible resource that's even more remarkable because it's absolutely free. When I started writing this column, I had to drive to the library at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine to look up information of this caliber. Now, it's a few keystrokes away. Wow.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am part of a breed-specific rescue group. While in foster care we work with each dog in an effort to evaluate temperament and improve upon the skills they are missing, which frequently include lack of proper socialization and obedience training.

Occasionally we have been criticized by adoption candidates because we were being too intrusive. When we explain that our goal is to make a good match between dog and adopter, and that doing so requires information about each of them, they usually accept the process.

We consider ourselves to be educators. When a dog is placed, we maintain contact with the adopter in order to support them during the transition period, and are always available to offer guidance related to health and training. -- Leanne Loza, DogWorks Canine Rescue (www.dogworks.org), Sacramento, Calif.

Q: I was rejected for adoption of a dog from a rescue group. I am a veterinary technician with eight pets. I was never given a reason for the denial, only told that I didn't qualify. The whole process took about a month. There was a five-page application, then a home inspection and an interview by phone.

I felt humiliated that a person with my background would be denied. I now have a bad feeling about adopting through rescue. I just can't believe I would have to go through all that work to adopt when I could spend roughly the same amount of money to buy a puppy and not have the hassle. -- D.U., via e-mail

A: The rescue debate rages on! I'll be writing a follow-up to my rescue column soon. In the meantime, read what other pet lovers are saying and let me know what you think on this subject. You'll find the link on my Web site, at www.spadafori.com. (The longer versions of both of these letters are there, as well.)

In the meantime, in reading all the letters that have been sent me, it's clear that a little tact and understanding -- on both sides -- would go a long, long way toward better serving the animals who need help.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As much as I hate foxtails, I have to admit that their design is nothing short of amazing. And besides, admiring them is much better than swearing when I'm gripping a comb and easing dozens of them out of my dogs' coats after they've run on the acreage behind our home.

Dried to a tawny gold by hot days, foxtails are now popping up. Their long, slender stems hold sticky seed carriers high, ready to catch a ride on a pant leg or a pet. The carrier itself is designed like a spike, with tiny hairs that keep the nettle burrowing forward through whatever is in the way.

There's no problem when the spike falls to the ground, where breezes help it to vibrate deep into the soil. But when a foxtail lands on an animal, all too often that burrowing trick is through flesh, and that can cause some severe problems. Foxtails dig deeply into every possible opening. Once in, they keep moving, sometimes causing significant damage. They can end up anywhere, and if left alone, they may need surgical attention. Dogs may sneeze at them, but you shouldn't; they can put your pet in danger.

This is the time of year when the grasses are dry and foxtails rule the day. Be aware of these problem areas:

-- Feet. Limping and licking are signs a foxtail has found a home, probably between your animal's toes.

-- Ears. Because of the burrowing nature of foxtails, every head shake drives the pest farther down into the ear. A pet with a foxtail in its ear may develop a chronic, foreign-body reaction and infection.

-- Nose. Because dogs like to sniff, foxtails often lodge in their noses. The signs are obvious: sneezing, sometimes violently, sometimes accompanied by bleeding or discharge. A foxtail in the nose will cause an infection and can even work its way into the lungs or spinal column.

The best way to deal with foxtails is through prevention. Steer clear of areas dense with foxtails, if you can. Keep the fur between your pet's toes trimmed, and go over your pet after every outing from head to toe, catching the foxtails before they get a chance to dig in.

Be aware that once a foxtail is imbedded, it isn't going away. If you suspect a foxtail is in your pet's ear or nose, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may still be able to grab the nettle before it can cause more trouble.

Sometimes there's just not enough room in a column for everything you want to say. That was the case with my recent column on breed-rescue groups. I neglected to mention that reputable breeders are part of the grassroots network dedicated to saving pets, because good breeders always take responsibility for the animals they bring into this world. A reputable breeder will take back any animal he or she breeds, no matter the age, no matter the problem.

My sheltie, Drew, was bred by my friend Tami, who also ran a local sheltie rescue group with me a few years ago. Although Tami has pulled many a sheltie out of shelters and placed those dogs in good new homes, she ended up looking for a new home for Drew because she bred him, and the home he was in didn't work out. Her co-breeder on that litter, a handler of champion show dogs, would have done the same. My misunderstanding as to Drew's history gives me an opportunity to note the contributions reputable breeders make when it comes to finding great new homes for pets who need them.

PETS ON THE WEB

With a house as full of pets as mine is, planning to leave some or all behind during a vacation can be quite an effort. Although I tend to trade vacation care with friends and neighbors, I have also used pet sitters and boarding kennels over the years, and been very happy with that arrangement as well. Referrals from friends and co-workers are a wonderful way to find the best of these businesses. But if your efforts turn up nothing, you can use the Web sites of two trade associations to help: Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) and the American Boarding Kennel Association (www.abka.com). Book as early as possible, especially for any holiday period.

THE SCOOP

With a parrot in the house again, I find myself spending a fair amount of time preparing meals with fresh, wholesome ingredients -- for the bird, of course! A parrot diet should be based on one of the good pelleted diets -- not seeds -- complemented by a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, whole-grain breads, pastas and more. I'm not much good in the kitchen, so I'm always looking for shortcuts. That's why I love not only frozen veggie mixes, but also the ready-to-use salad and slaw mixes found in the produce section of many grocery stores. Eddie's favorite: fresh chopped salsa mixes, especially of the tropical variety. Add a little bread or pasta, a garnish of seed and it's a meal!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just got a 9-week-old female black Lab/Border collie mix from the SPCA. I know training is required, and I was thinking my husband -- who is great at this -- would be able to show me some pointers. Well, I realize that I am the one who is spending the most time with the puppy, and the training needs to come from me. I have no problem doing this, but my problem is that I am awful at dog training. We are completely in love with her and want to make a well-trained dog out of her.

We have a geriatric, well-trained 12-year-old Lab who is a calming influence on the puppy, but I need to do more. Do you know of any inexpensive training seminars I can go to with her to learn how to do this? I do not have a ton of money so cheap to free would be doable for me. -- B.D., via e-mail

A: The thing you need most to raise a puppy successfully is absolutely free -- a good attitude. Training should be fun, for both you and the puppy. If you keep this in mind, you'll do great!

Your best money will be spent on a puppy socialization class and a good reference book.

Puppy classes introduce the concepts of obedience in a gentle and fun way, with lots of food treats and other positive reinforcement. It's especially important for you to take such a class, so you can learn to train your puppy and also have access to someone who can expertly answer your questions. For a trainer referral, ask your veterinarian or check with the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com).

You'll find lots of wonderful books on the market (and in your local library), but over the years I find myself most often recommending "How To Raise a Puppy You Can Live With," by Clarice Rutherford and David H. Neil (Alpine Publications, $12). What I really like about this book is its clear explanation of the various stages puppies go through and how to make the most of them.

Time for some freebies! The Web site of the Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org) has an excellent collection of handouts on preventing and solving pet behavior problems. You'll also find lots of information in my column archives at www.spadafori.com, which go back to 1999.

Have fun with your puppy! She's a mix of two of the brightest and most eager-to-please breeds, so she ought to be a great dog to train.

Q: I've never been much of a cat person, but I'm trying to form a good relationship with my girlfriend's cat now that we're all living together. Winston has the "flippiest" tail, and I want to know what's up with that? He doesn't seem happy like a dog when his tail is wagging. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Winston isn't really keen on you yet, if his tail is any guide. A cat's tail can be a warning of impending aggression, those "out of the blue" attacks by a cat who wants to be left alone.

If a cat's becoming agitated, he'll whip his tail from side to side. If he's doing this while you're petting him, take the first tail twitch as a sign to stop. Short sessions up to the point of the tail twitch will build his tolerance for you (a few choice treats won't hurt, either).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600