When shopping for a new one, ask yourself if a more economical model will meet your needs. And before you buy, be sure to check how often the brands you're considering are likely to break down.

When repairs are needed, shop aggressively to find less-expensive alternatives, and buy any necessary parts and maintenance supplies from discount retailers, catalogs or Internet merchants, not from the person who's doing the repairs.

And remember: Sometimes it's cheaper to buy new than repair old.

This is all great advice when you're talking about a car, but it doesn't ring true when you're talking about a member of your family. And "family" is exactly what many people consider their pets to be.

And yet, in the July edition of Consumer Reports, a package of articles attempting to help pet lovers save money on their veterinary bills takes just such an approach. Treat your pet like your car, and treat your veterinarian like a mechanic.

It's bad advice for the health and well-being of your pet.

It's not a bad thing to make money -- this is America, after all -- and veterinarians ought to be able to earn a living that's somewhat in line with the years of hard work and education that went into getting their degree. Consumer Reports says that veterinary costs have been rising, but the fact is that they've been low for decades.

The tone of the article suggests that procedures costing thousands to tens of thousands of dollars in human medicine are a rip-off at a price of several hundred dollars when performed by a veterinarian. But the procedures, and some of the costs that go into performing them, can be the same.

The magazine also suggests that veterinarians push diagnostic tests to increase the bottom line. In some cases and in some places, the magazine may be right. But I shake my head when people complain to me about a veterinarian who wants to screen for disease before anesthesia or prescribing powerful medications with side effects that have been known to be lethal to animals with certain health conditions.

If your physician didn't insist on such screening and something went wrong, he'd be facing a lawsuit or even prosecution. But too often when a veterinarian attempts to practice a good standard of medicine, he's accused of padding the bill.

If you want good medicine for your pet, you need to know what it is, and you need to be willing to pay for it. On the other hand, there are some trends in veterinary medicine that every pet lover needs to know about.

Veterinarians who own their own practices are constantly pitched by consultants who want to teach them to be more businesslike, often by adding to the bottom line by pushing procedures and products. There's even a magazine -- Veterinary Economics -- dedicated to making veterinarians better at making money. I've read it, and sometimes it makes me cringe. I do know, however, that a lot of what's promoted by these sources sometimes makes good veterinarians cringe, as well.

Know too, that for veterinarians in some practices there is no option to pushing these bottom-line enhancers, and they don't have the power to cut costs. They're relatively low-paid employees of practices managed by people far removed from the heartbreak of someone with a seriously ill pet and little money. These employee veterinarians are often given revenue targets they must meet -- or else.

So what should you do? Some of the information Consumer Reports offers is absolutely right, especially when it comes to preventive care. Choose purebreds from reputable breeders or mixed breeds to minimize the possibility of congenital health problems. Keep your pet at a proper weight with good nutrition and exercise, and make sure the animal stays free of parasites. Alter your pet to prevent certain cancers, communicable diseases and injuries related to fighting or roaming. Prevent accidents by keeping your cat inside and your dog on leash or behind a fence.

As for a veterinarian, find one who deserves your respect, and then show some respect. Educate yourself about good medicine and build a trusting relationship with a veterinarian who's trying hard to practice it. Make each conversation with your veterinarian about medicine first and money second, and you'll get a better result, both in the short term and in the long. Your veterinarian knows costs matter, and you don't have to hammer him over the head with that fact again and again.

But if all you care about is money, then Consumer Reports sums it up for you at the end of its piece: Euthanasia will cost you about $50. Less if (as the magazine pushes so strongly) you shop around.

THE SCOOP

One thing Consumer Reports is dead-on right about: It's time for veterinarians to get out of the pharmacy business. A convenience for pet lovers and a part of the revenue stream for veterinarians, the practice of selling both prescription and nonprescription medications (along with food, leashes, chew toys, etc.) has long appeared a conflict of interest, even in the best of practices.

Veterinarians will argue -- and they're absolutely right -- that the markups on these items help keep down other costs. But outside pressures from superstore retailers and Internet pharmacies are forcing an end to this business model, and veterinarians need to seize the opportunity for change.

You should indeed look to pay less for the products your pet needs, but the tradeoff is that you must also be willing to pay more for your veterinarian's advice, which has long been subsidized by markups on medications, vaccines and the like. Veterinarians ought to be happy to shed the conflict of interest that selling drugs presents, and put their efforts toward getting their clients to see them as the professionals they are, not the marketing machines practice-management consultants are pushing them to be.

PETS ON THE WEB

Knowledge is never a bad thing, which is why I glad to see the Consumer Reports package include a note about one of my favorite pet-related Web sites. The Merck Veterinary Manual (www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp) is an incredible resource that's even more remarkable because it's absolutely free. When I started writing this column, I had to drive to the library at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine to look up information of this caliber. Now, it's a few keystrokes away. Wow.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am part of a breed-specific rescue group. While in foster care we work with each dog in an effort to evaluate temperament and improve upon the skills they are missing, which frequently include lack of proper socialization and obedience training.

Occasionally we have been criticized by adoption candidates because we were being too intrusive. When we explain that our goal is to make a good match between dog and adopter, and that doing so requires information about each of them, they usually accept the process.

We consider ourselves to be educators. When a dog is placed, we maintain contact with the adopter in order to support them during the transition period, and are always available to offer guidance related to health and training. -- Leanne Loza, DogWorks Canine Rescue (www.dogworks.org), Sacramento, Calif.

Q: I was rejected for adoption of a dog from a rescue group. I am a veterinary technician with eight pets. I was never given a reason for the denial, only told that I didn't qualify. The whole process took about a month. There was a five-page application, then a home inspection and an interview by phone.

I felt humiliated that a person with my background would be denied. I now have a bad feeling about adopting through rescue. I just can't believe I would have to go through all that work to adopt when I could spend roughly the same amount of money to buy a puppy and not have the hassle. -- D.U., via e-mail

A: The rescue debate rages on! I'll be writing a follow-up to my rescue column soon. In the meantime, read what other pet lovers are saying and let me know what you think on this subject. You'll find the link on my Web site, at www.spadafori.com. (The longer versions of both of these letters are there, as well.)

In the meantime, in reading all the letters that have been sent me, it's clear that a little tact and understanding -- on both sides -- would go a long, long way toward better serving the animals who need help.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As much as I hate foxtails, I have to admit that their design is nothing short of amazing. And besides, admiring them is much better than swearing when I'm gripping a comb and easing dozens of them out of my dogs' coats after they've run on the acreage behind our home.

Dried to a tawny gold by hot days, foxtails are now popping up. Their long, slender stems hold sticky seed carriers high, ready to catch a ride on a pant leg or a pet. The carrier itself is designed like a spike, with tiny hairs that keep the nettle burrowing forward through whatever is in the way.

There's no problem when the spike falls to the ground, where breezes help it to vibrate deep into the soil. But when a foxtail lands on an animal, all too often that burrowing trick is through flesh, and that can cause some severe problems. Foxtails dig deeply into every possible opening. Once in, they keep moving, sometimes causing significant damage. They can end up anywhere, and if left alone, they may need surgical attention. Dogs may sneeze at them, but you shouldn't; they can put your pet in danger.

This is the time of year when the grasses are dry and foxtails rule the day. Be aware of these problem areas:

-- Feet. Limping and licking are signs a foxtail has found a home, probably between your animal's toes.

-- Ears. Because of the burrowing nature of foxtails, every head shake drives the pest farther down into the ear. A pet with a foxtail in its ear may develop a chronic, foreign-body reaction and infection.

-- Nose. Because dogs like to sniff, foxtails often lodge in their noses. The signs are obvious: sneezing, sometimes violently, sometimes accompanied by bleeding or discharge. A foxtail in the nose will cause an infection and can even work its way into the lungs or spinal column.

The best way to deal with foxtails is through prevention. Steer clear of areas dense with foxtails, if you can. Keep the fur between your pet's toes trimmed, and go over your pet after every outing from head to toe, catching the foxtails before they get a chance to dig in.

Be aware that once a foxtail is imbedded, it isn't going away. If you suspect a foxtail is in your pet's ear or nose, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may still be able to grab the nettle before it can cause more trouble.

Sometimes there's just not enough room in a column for everything you want to say. That was the case with my recent column on breed-rescue groups. I neglected to mention that reputable breeders are part of the grassroots network dedicated to saving pets, because good breeders always take responsibility for the animals they bring into this world. A reputable breeder will take back any animal he or she breeds, no matter the age, no matter the problem.

My sheltie, Drew, was bred by my friend Tami, who also ran a local sheltie rescue group with me a few years ago. Although Tami has pulled many a sheltie out of shelters and placed those dogs in good new homes, she ended up looking for a new home for Drew because she bred him, and the home he was in didn't work out. Her co-breeder on that litter, a handler of champion show dogs, would have done the same. My misunderstanding as to Drew's history gives me an opportunity to note the contributions reputable breeders make when it comes to finding great new homes for pets who need them.

PETS ON THE WEB

With a house as full of pets as mine is, planning to leave some or all behind during a vacation can be quite an effort. Although I tend to trade vacation care with friends and neighbors, I have also used pet sitters and boarding kennels over the years, and been very happy with that arrangement as well. Referrals from friends and co-workers are a wonderful way to find the best of these businesses. But if your efforts turn up nothing, you can use the Web sites of two trade associations to help: Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) and the American Boarding Kennel Association (www.abka.com). Book as early as possible, especially for any holiday period.

THE SCOOP

With a parrot in the house again, I find myself spending a fair amount of time preparing meals with fresh, wholesome ingredients -- for the bird, of course! A parrot diet should be based on one of the good pelleted diets -- not seeds -- complemented by a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, whole-grain breads, pastas and more. I'm not much good in the kitchen, so I'm always looking for shortcuts. That's why I love not only frozen veggie mixes, but also the ready-to-use salad and slaw mixes found in the produce section of many grocery stores. Eddie's favorite: fresh chopped salsa mixes, especially of the tropical variety. Add a little bread or pasta, a garnish of seed and it's a meal!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just got a 9-week-old female black Lab/Border collie mix from the SPCA. I know training is required, and I was thinking my husband -- who is great at this -- would be able to show me some pointers. Well, I realize that I am the one who is spending the most time with the puppy, and the training needs to come from me. I have no problem doing this, but my problem is that I am awful at dog training. We are completely in love with her and want to make a well-trained dog out of her.

We have a geriatric, well-trained 12-year-old Lab who is a calming influence on the puppy, but I need to do more. Do you know of any inexpensive training seminars I can go to with her to learn how to do this? I do not have a ton of money so cheap to free would be doable for me. -- B.D., via e-mail

A: The thing you need most to raise a puppy successfully is absolutely free -- a good attitude. Training should be fun, for both you and the puppy. If you keep this in mind, you'll do great!

Your best money will be spent on a puppy socialization class and a good reference book.

Puppy classes introduce the concepts of obedience in a gentle and fun way, with lots of food treats and other positive reinforcement. It's especially important for you to take such a class, so you can learn to train your puppy and also have access to someone who can expertly answer your questions. For a trainer referral, ask your veterinarian or check with the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com).

You'll find lots of wonderful books on the market (and in your local library), but over the years I find myself most often recommending "How To Raise a Puppy You Can Live With," by Clarice Rutherford and David H. Neil (Alpine Publications, $12). What I really like about this book is its clear explanation of the various stages puppies go through and how to make the most of them.

Time for some freebies! The Web site of the Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org) has an excellent collection of handouts on preventing and solving pet behavior problems. You'll also find lots of information in my column archives at www.spadafori.com, which go back to 1999.

Have fun with your puppy! She's a mix of two of the brightest and most eager-to-please breeds, so she ought to be a great dog to train.

Q: I've never been much of a cat person, but I'm trying to form a good relationship with my girlfriend's cat now that we're all living together. Winston has the "flippiest" tail, and I want to know what's up with that? He doesn't seem happy like a dog when his tail is wagging. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Winston isn't really keen on you yet, if his tail is any guide. A cat's tail can be a warning of impending aggression, those "out of the blue" attacks by a cat who wants to be left alone.

If a cat's becoming agitated, he'll whip his tail from side to side. If he's doing this while you're petting him, take the first tail twitch as a sign to stop. Short sessions up to the point of the tail twitch will build his tolerance for you (a few choice treats won't hurt, either).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

After I wrote about pet-rescue groups, I got quite a few e-mails of support, most from people who are themselves rescue volunteers and were happy to see their efforts acknowledged and publicized. But one e-mail that wasn't so supportive really caught my attention.

"You noted there were downsides to dealing with rescue groups," wrote the anonymous e-mailer. "But among them you didn't list that these people are nuts."

The reader went on to complain about what happened when she tried to adopt a cat from a rescue group. "It would have been easier to adopt a baby, I swear," she wrote.

The rescue volunteers wanted her name, address and phone number, where she worked, what she did and how many hours she was away from home each day. If she had children, or a dog. They wanted to know if she'd ever had cats before, and what happened to each one.

The potential adopter thought this all pretty intrusive. "Why are they giving someone who wants to give a cat a good home such a hard time?" she asked.

Turns out they weren't done with her yet. The group wouldn't place a pet with anyone who wouldn't agree to keep the cat exclusively inside, or anyone who'd even consider declawing the animal. The woman has had free-roaming cats all her life, all either rescued strays or pets taken in from shelters or other animal welfare groups. She doesn't think it's fair to keep a cat completely inside, and she said she had no intention of keeping her next cat inside, either. And yes, she'd once declawed one of her cats, and couldn't promise it wouldn't happen again.

The rescue group turned down her application.

"These people treated me like they thought I was going to use the cat I wanted to adopt to train pit bulls to fight," she wrote. "I've loved my cats and have cared for them well. Where do these people get off judging me to be an unfit home?"

I've been on the other side of this fence from the reader, having once run a small rescue group. As a rescue volunteer, I had to say "no" to a few people whose intentions were good, but who I believed wouldn't be able to follow through with their promises. Although I loved making people happy, my main reason for volunteering was to restore the faith in humans that the animals in my care had before they were given up, and I knew that my goal would be accomplished only by finding a caring "forever" home for each animal.

That said, I do know of rescue groups that seem to go a little too far, insisting that there's only one right way to care for a pet -- their way. When I was volunteering in rescue, I tried very hard to judge each person on his or her merits, and not to deal in absolutes. For example, while some dog-rescue groups would automatically rule out someone who doesn't have a fenced yard, one of the most perfect homes I ever found for one of my foster dogs was with a woman who lived in a condo with no yard at all. She sent me pictures off and on for years, and the most kind-hearted thank-you note ever when the dog I placed with her finally died of old age.

I'd like to hear from more readers on this subject. Do you think rescue groups (and shelters) are too picky when it comes to placing pets? Have you ever been turned down for a pet you wanted to adopt, and did you think the reason you were given was fair? If you're a rescue volunteer, please tell me about the people you thought were perfect for the pets you were placing or those you turned down, and why. Drop me a note to the addresses at the end of the column. I'll follow up on this subject in a future column, and will post as many of the responses as I can on my Web site.

PETS ON THE WEB

A reader sent me a link to the Rate My Kitten site (www.ratemykitten.com), which has enough cat images to please even the most adoring of feline fans. The site is nothing fancy, just image after image of cats and kittens, along with a 1-through-10 scale of judging them. Top vote-getters are listed, as are the ones visitors liked least. Membership is optional.

THE SCOOP

The most numerous victims of the SARS virus aren't human, but animals, including cats and dogs reportedly slaughtered by the thousands in Asian countries even though no link has been made connecting the disease to domestic pets. (The civet cat, which has been reported to carry the SARS virus, is a wild animal related to the mongoose, not to the domestic cat.)

Diseases that are passed from animals to humans have always been a problem, and the best thing you can do to protect yourself is to keep your pets healthy and take commonplace precautions when it comes to handling animals.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control has put together a page of resources on the topic of zoonotic disease ("zoonotic" is the scientific term for diseases that move from animals to humans). Reviewing the information (www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dpd/parasiticpathways/animals.htm) is time well spent.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our dog was diagnosed with diabetes almost two years ago. We take him in every six months for testing to see how his diabetes is doing. So far, he has been getting a good report from the veterinarian. Our dog was overweight before he had diabetes, and a lot of overweight dogs can get diabetes, just as overweight people do.

Many people are unaware that dogs can get diabetes. When I go to the pharmacy to pick up his insulin, people give me a strange look when I tell them it's for my dog. Would you please inform others about this? –- P.M., via e-mail

A: Yes, pets do get diabetes, and yes, obesity is a factor, albeit not the only one. I can't tell you how many people over the years have written me with the assumption that diabetes is a death sentence for their pets, when that's simply not true, as you've found out.

As you've also discovered, diabetes does require regular monitoring by a veterinarian, as well as a fair amount of work (and expense) to determine the correct insulin dose in the weeks after diagnosis. Many people worry that they will not be able to give their pets insulin shots, but I've found that these same people eventually come to believe that giving shots is "no big deal."

The signs of diabetes may include high levels of hunger, thirst and urination, as well as weight loss. If your pet is showing these symptoms, you need to see your veterinarian, no matter what.

The Veterinary Partners Web site, owned by my "Cats for Dummies" author Dr. Paul Pion, offers good information on this disease (and others) at www.veterinarypartners.com (put "diabetes" in the site's search engine to bring up the information). Probably the best site on diabetes in pets is FelineDiabetes.com, which was started by a physician as a resource for others after his cat was diagnosed with the disease.

Q: I'm a first-time dog owner and I've just discovered ticks! What's the best prevention, and what should you do when you find a tick on your dog? –- S.L., via e-mail

A: Recently I was having dinner with some pet-loving friends (which is a little redundant: If you're a friend of mine, chances are very good indeed that you're a pet lover!). Topic of discussion: Are ticks the most disgusting thing you've ever seen? Consensus: Yes!

Aside from the gross-out factor, ticks are easy to deal with. For safety's sake, always be careful not to handle them with your bare hands. Instead, use tweezers or a tick-pulling device (shaped like a spoon with a slot in it to catch the tick) to remove the pest. You can collect pulled ticks in a bowl with rubbing alcohol in it, then flush the disgusting mess down the toilet when you've collected them all. Watch each area where a tick was for a couple of days, and if you see inflammation or infection, talk to your veterinarian.

Spot-on medications available from your veterinarian will help keep your pet free of both fleas and ticks, but if you live in an area with lots of the ticks, you may also need to add a tick collar. With any pest-control products, discuss the risks with your veterinarian, and be sure to follow directions to the letter for your pet's safety.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600