As much as I hate foxtails, I have to admit that their design is nothing short of amazing. And besides, admiring them is much better than swearing when I'm gripping a comb and easing dozens of them out of my dogs' coats after they've run on the acreage behind our home.

Dried to a tawny gold by hot days, foxtails are now popping up. Their long, slender stems hold sticky seed carriers high, ready to catch a ride on a pant leg or a pet. The carrier itself is designed like a spike, with tiny hairs that keep the nettle burrowing forward through whatever is in the way.

There's no problem when the spike falls to the ground, where breezes help it to vibrate deep into the soil. But when a foxtail lands on an animal, all too often that burrowing trick is through flesh, and that can cause some severe problems. Foxtails dig deeply into every possible opening. Once in, they keep moving, sometimes causing significant damage. They can end up anywhere, and if left alone, they may need surgical attention. Dogs may sneeze at them, but you shouldn't; they can put your pet in danger.

This is the time of year when the grasses are dry and foxtails rule the day. Be aware of these problem areas:

-- Feet. Limping and licking are signs a foxtail has found a home, probably between your animal's toes.

-- Ears. Because of the burrowing nature of foxtails, every head shake drives the pest farther down into the ear. A pet with a foxtail in its ear may develop a chronic, foreign-body reaction and infection.

-- Nose. Because dogs like to sniff, foxtails often lodge in their noses. The signs are obvious: sneezing, sometimes violently, sometimes accompanied by bleeding or discharge. A foxtail in the nose will cause an infection and can even work its way into the lungs or spinal column.

The best way to deal with foxtails is through prevention. Steer clear of areas dense with foxtails, if you can. Keep the fur between your pet's toes trimmed, and go over your pet after every outing from head to toe, catching the foxtails before they get a chance to dig in.

Be aware that once a foxtail is imbedded, it isn't going away. If you suspect a foxtail is in your pet's ear or nose, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may still be able to grab the nettle before it can cause more trouble.

Sometimes there's just not enough room in a column for everything you want to say. That was the case with my recent column on breed-rescue groups. I neglected to mention that reputable breeders are part of the grassroots network dedicated to saving pets, because good breeders always take responsibility for the animals they bring into this world. A reputable breeder will take back any animal he or she breeds, no matter the age, no matter the problem.

My sheltie, Drew, was bred by my friend Tami, who also ran a local sheltie rescue group with me a few years ago. Although Tami has pulled many a sheltie out of shelters and placed those dogs in good new homes, she ended up looking for a new home for Drew because she bred him, and the home he was in didn't work out. Her co-breeder on that litter, a handler of champion show dogs, would have done the same. My misunderstanding as to Drew's history gives me an opportunity to note the contributions reputable breeders make when it comes to finding great new homes for pets who need them.

PETS ON THE WEB

With a house as full of pets as mine is, planning to leave some or all behind during a vacation can be quite an effort. Although I tend to trade vacation care with friends and neighbors, I have also used pet sitters and boarding kennels over the years, and been very happy with that arrangement as well. Referrals from friends and co-workers are a wonderful way to find the best of these businesses. But if your efforts turn up nothing, you can use the Web sites of two trade associations to help: Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) and the American Boarding Kennel Association (www.abka.com). Book as early as possible, especially for any holiday period.

THE SCOOP

With a parrot in the house again, I find myself spending a fair amount of time preparing meals with fresh, wholesome ingredients -- for the bird, of course! A parrot diet should be based on one of the good pelleted diets -- not seeds -- complemented by a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, whole-grain breads, pastas and more. I'm not much good in the kitchen, so I'm always looking for shortcuts. That's why I love not only frozen veggie mixes, but also the ready-to-use salad and slaw mixes found in the produce section of many grocery stores. Eddie's favorite: fresh chopped salsa mixes, especially of the tropical variety. Add a little bread or pasta, a garnish of seed and it's a meal!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just got a 9-week-old female black Lab/Border collie mix from the SPCA. I know training is required, and I was thinking my husband -- who is great at this -- would be able to show me some pointers. Well, I realize that I am the one who is spending the most time with the puppy, and the training needs to come from me. I have no problem doing this, but my problem is that I am awful at dog training. We are completely in love with her and want to make a well-trained dog out of her.

We have a geriatric, well-trained 12-year-old Lab who is a calming influence on the puppy, but I need to do more. Do you know of any inexpensive training seminars I can go to with her to learn how to do this? I do not have a ton of money so cheap to free would be doable for me. -- B.D., via e-mail

A: The thing you need most to raise a puppy successfully is absolutely free -- a good attitude. Training should be fun, for both you and the puppy. If you keep this in mind, you'll do great!

Your best money will be spent on a puppy socialization class and a good reference book.

Puppy classes introduce the concepts of obedience in a gentle and fun way, with lots of food treats and other positive reinforcement. It's especially important for you to take such a class, so you can learn to train your puppy and also have access to someone who can expertly answer your questions. For a trainer referral, ask your veterinarian or check with the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com).

You'll find lots of wonderful books on the market (and in your local library), but over the years I find myself most often recommending "How To Raise a Puppy You Can Live With," by Clarice Rutherford and David H. Neil (Alpine Publications, $12). What I really like about this book is its clear explanation of the various stages puppies go through and how to make the most of them.

Time for some freebies! The Web site of the Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org) has an excellent collection of handouts on preventing and solving pet behavior problems. You'll also find lots of information in my column archives at www.spadafori.com, which go back to 1999.

Have fun with your puppy! She's a mix of two of the brightest and most eager-to-please breeds, so she ought to be a great dog to train.

Q: I've never been much of a cat person, but I'm trying to form a good relationship with my girlfriend's cat now that we're all living together. Winston has the "flippiest" tail, and I want to know what's up with that? He doesn't seem happy like a dog when his tail is wagging. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Winston isn't really keen on you yet, if his tail is any guide. A cat's tail can be a warning of impending aggression, those "out of the blue" attacks by a cat who wants to be left alone.

If a cat's becoming agitated, he'll whip his tail from side to side. If he's doing this while you're petting him, take the first tail twitch as a sign to stop. Short sessions up to the point of the tail twitch will build his tolerance for you (a few choice treats won't hurt, either).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

After I wrote about pet-rescue groups, I got quite a few e-mails of support, most from people who are themselves rescue volunteers and were happy to see their efforts acknowledged and publicized. But one e-mail that wasn't so supportive really caught my attention.

"You noted there were downsides to dealing with rescue groups," wrote the anonymous e-mailer. "But among them you didn't list that these people are nuts."

The reader went on to complain about what happened when she tried to adopt a cat from a rescue group. "It would have been easier to adopt a baby, I swear," she wrote.

The rescue volunteers wanted her name, address and phone number, where she worked, what she did and how many hours she was away from home each day. If she had children, or a dog. They wanted to know if she'd ever had cats before, and what happened to each one.

The potential adopter thought this all pretty intrusive. "Why are they giving someone who wants to give a cat a good home such a hard time?" she asked.

Turns out they weren't done with her yet. The group wouldn't place a pet with anyone who wouldn't agree to keep the cat exclusively inside, or anyone who'd even consider declawing the animal. The woman has had free-roaming cats all her life, all either rescued strays or pets taken in from shelters or other animal welfare groups. She doesn't think it's fair to keep a cat completely inside, and she said she had no intention of keeping her next cat inside, either. And yes, she'd once declawed one of her cats, and couldn't promise it wouldn't happen again.

The rescue group turned down her application.

"These people treated me like they thought I was going to use the cat I wanted to adopt to train pit bulls to fight," she wrote. "I've loved my cats and have cared for them well. Where do these people get off judging me to be an unfit home?"

I've been on the other side of this fence from the reader, having once run a small rescue group. As a rescue volunteer, I had to say "no" to a few people whose intentions were good, but who I believed wouldn't be able to follow through with their promises. Although I loved making people happy, my main reason for volunteering was to restore the faith in humans that the animals in my care had before they were given up, and I knew that my goal would be accomplished only by finding a caring "forever" home for each animal.

That said, I do know of rescue groups that seem to go a little too far, insisting that there's only one right way to care for a pet -- their way. When I was volunteering in rescue, I tried very hard to judge each person on his or her merits, and not to deal in absolutes. For example, while some dog-rescue groups would automatically rule out someone who doesn't have a fenced yard, one of the most perfect homes I ever found for one of my foster dogs was with a woman who lived in a condo with no yard at all. She sent me pictures off and on for years, and the most kind-hearted thank-you note ever when the dog I placed with her finally died of old age.

I'd like to hear from more readers on this subject. Do you think rescue groups (and shelters) are too picky when it comes to placing pets? Have you ever been turned down for a pet you wanted to adopt, and did you think the reason you were given was fair? If you're a rescue volunteer, please tell me about the people you thought were perfect for the pets you were placing or those you turned down, and why. Drop me a note to the addresses at the end of the column. I'll follow up on this subject in a future column, and will post as many of the responses as I can on my Web site.

PETS ON THE WEB

A reader sent me a link to the Rate My Kitten site (www.ratemykitten.com), which has enough cat images to please even the most adoring of feline fans. The site is nothing fancy, just image after image of cats and kittens, along with a 1-through-10 scale of judging them. Top vote-getters are listed, as are the ones visitors liked least. Membership is optional.

THE SCOOP

The most numerous victims of the SARS virus aren't human, but animals, including cats and dogs reportedly slaughtered by the thousands in Asian countries even though no link has been made connecting the disease to domestic pets. (The civet cat, which has been reported to carry the SARS virus, is a wild animal related to the mongoose, not to the domestic cat.)

Diseases that are passed from animals to humans have always been a problem, and the best thing you can do to protect yourself is to keep your pets healthy and take commonplace precautions when it comes to handling animals.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control has put together a page of resources on the topic of zoonotic disease ("zoonotic" is the scientific term for diseases that move from animals to humans). Reviewing the information (www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dpd/parasiticpathways/animals.htm) is time well spent.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our dog was diagnosed with diabetes almost two years ago. We take him in every six months for testing to see how his diabetes is doing. So far, he has been getting a good report from the veterinarian. Our dog was overweight before he had diabetes, and a lot of overweight dogs can get diabetes, just as overweight people do.

Many people are unaware that dogs can get diabetes. When I go to the pharmacy to pick up his insulin, people give me a strange look when I tell them it's for my dog. Would you please inform others about this? –- P.M., via e-mail

A: Yes, pets do get diabetes, and yes, obesity is a factor, albeit not the only one. I can't tell you how many people over the years have written me with the assumption that diabetes is a death sentence for their pets, when that's simply not true, as you've found out.

As you've also discovered, diabetes does require regular monitoring by a veterinarian, as well as a fair amount of work (and expense) to determine the correct insulin dose in the weeks after diagnosis. Many people worry that they will not be able to give their pets insulin shots, but I've found that these same people eventually come to believe that giving shots is "no big deal."

The signs of diabetes may include high levels of hunger, thirst and urination, as well as weight loss. If your pet is showing these symptoms, you need to see your veterinarian, no matter what.

The Veterinary Partners Web site, owned by my "Cats for Dummies" author Dr. Paul Pion, offers good information on this disease (and others) at www.veterinarypartners.com (put "diabetes" in the site's search engine to bring up the information). Probably the best site on diabetes in pets is FelineDiabetes.com, which was started by a physician as a resource for others after his cat was diagnosed with the disease.

Q: I'm a first-time dog owner and I've just discovered ticks! What's the best prevention, and what should you do when you find a tick on your dog? –- S.L., via e-mail

A: Recently I was having dinner with some pet-loving friends (which is a little redundant: If you're a friend of mine, chances are very good indeed that you're a pet lover!). Topic of discussion: Are ticks the most disgusting thing you've ever seen? Consensus: Yes!

Aside from the gross-out factor, ticks are easy to deal with. For safety's sake, always be careful not to handle them with your bare hands. Instead, use tweezers or a tick-pulling device (shaped like a spoon with a slot in it to catch the tick) to remove the pest. You can collect pulled ticks in a bowl with rubbing alcohol in it, then flush the disgusting mess down the toilet when you've collected them all. Watch each area where a tick was for a couple of days, and if you see inflammation or infection, talk to your veterinarian.

Spot-on medications available from your veterinarian will help keep your pet free of both fleas and ticks, but if you live in an area with lots of the ticks, you may also need to add a tick collar. With any pest-control products, discuss the risks with your veterinarian, and be sure to follow directions to the letter for your pet's safety.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Your dog barks non-stop. Your dog digs, ruining your yard. Your dog chews anything he can get his teeth on.

What's missing from this picture? Chances are, it's exercise.

It's not news that we humans don't get enough exercise, so it's no surprise that our dogs aren't moving much, either. While most pet lovers recognize that exercise is good for their dogs, few seem to make the connection between a lack of exercise and behavioral problems that have excess energy and boredom as components.

While environmental management (such as removing barking triggers or giving a dog something acceptable to chew) and training your dog are important, these strategies are only part of the solution. Dogs aren't getting the exercise they need, and it's causing problems.

Look at the big, active dogs we adore, such as the Labrador, golden retriever and German shepherd. These breeds make up three of the American Kennel Club's top five most popular. You don't have to go far down the popularity list to find other active breeds as well. Factor in the countless retriever and shepherd mixes, and you have a lot of dogs whose genetics have prepared them to work nonstop, but are spending their lives in small, boring back yards.

And what are they doing to burn all that natural energy? You guessed it: barking, digging, chewing.

If you're thinking of getting a dog, think very seriously about what breed you want, and whether you can provide an active dog with the exercise it needs. If you can't honestly say that your dog will get 30 minutes of heart-thumping aerobic exercise at least three to four days a week -- daily is better -- then you really ought to reconsider gettting an active large breed.

Instead, consider the alternatives. For large breeds, look at the sight hounds, such as the greyhound, saluki or even the massive Irish wolfhound. These breeds were not developed to work all day like the retriever, husky and sheepdog, but rather to go all-out for a short period of time and then chill out. They're big, but they're couch potatoes by choice. Many guarding breeds, such as rottweilers, boxers and Akitas, also have relatively minimal exercise requirements. All dogs love and need their exercise, but not all dogs will go crazy if they don't get a ton of it.

Most small breeds are easy in the exercise department, too, not because they don't need a lot of exercise, but rather because it's not as difficult to exercise a small dog with short legs. A Yorkie, pug or corgi can get good exercise in a small yard or on a brisk walk.

If you must bring a large, active breed or mix into your home, then you also must meet your dog's needs when it comes to exercise.

Your efforts will pay off for you as well your dog. Experts agree: A dog that gets plenty of exercise is less likely to develop behavior problems and more likely to be able to overcome them if they're established. Plus, an active dog will be less likely to suffer from life-shortening obesity.

So get that leash. Find that ball. And make some time to get your dog out and running. Exercising your dog -- especially if you're a walker or runner -- is great for your own physical and mental health as well.

PETS ON THE WEB

Are you ever embarrassed to admit how much you love your cats? Would you be chagrined to know that others consider you the "crazy cat lady" of your office? If so, you'll enjoy the Web site of the Crazy Cat Ladies Society & Gentlemen's Auxiliary (www.crazycatladies.org). This charming site uses humor to counter the stereotypes of cat lovers. Along the way, the society also raises money for some worthy causes -- cat-related, of course. There's also a forum area to schmooze with like-minded cat lovers. Crazy cat ladies (and gentlemen) of the world unite!

THE SCOOP

As the weather heats up, it's essential that all pets have a constant source of fresh water that's protected from the heat of the sun. I remember almost renting a house that came equipped with one of those nifty dispensers that attach to an outdoor faucet and provide water when the dog licks the end (sort of like the set-ups used for rabbits and other small animals). Problem was, the faucet was in the sun, which meant the metal would be blistering hot on a day when a pet needed water most. I didn't take the place -- the street had too much traffic -- but I did unscrew the watering device and hand it to the rental agent with an explanation before I left.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm thinking of adopting a small poodle from animal rescue. I work full-time, and my back yard is just cement and a pool. I am wondering the best way to deal with poodle poop. (I'm hoping the poodle will already be house-trained.)

Since I don't really have anywhere in the back yard for the poodle to relieve herself ... well, what do I do? Can I litterbox-train her? Could I put some kind of adult diaper on the floor? -- K.H., via e-mail

A: Your dog doesn't need grass in the yard to use it. Think of all the dogs who live in Manhattan and how little grass they have to use. It's just a matter of acclimating the dog, with training and lots of praise, to use what's available.

I'm getting the sense, however, that you would find poodle poops by the pool to be a problem, and if that's the case, then yes, there are other options. You could walk the dog, being very sure to pick up those messes with a baggie. Or you could use a litterbox.

People with small dogs have used feline litterboxes for years, as well as newspapers spread on the floor. Neither solution was ideal, but in the last couple of years the litterbox option became much more viable when a major dog-food manufacturer threw its support into developing a box designed for dogs.

Purina's Secondnature system comes with a box and litter, along with a training brochure to help convert dogs to the indoor-only potty stop. You can find out more about the product on the Web site, Doglitter.com, or by calling (800) 7PURINA (778-7462).

Q: Thought I'd pass along a possible solution to the problem of stray cats messing on lawns. A friend suggested this solution, and it seems to be working so far.

I realized the cat was coming over my fence, so I laid chicken wire on the 2-by-4 runners along the fence. I stapled the chicken wire at a 45-degree angle on the fence and the 2-by-4s, thus leaving a space between the chicken wire and the 2-by-4.

The idea is that the cat won't walk on the chicken wire because its feet will get tangled up in it. It can also work if you leave chicken wire around the perimeter of the lawn because cats won't walk on it to get to the lawn; they just go to the neighbor's! -- J.D., via e-mail

A: I always know the weather is finally nice enough for gardening when people start writing me to complain about cat mess in their yards.

Your solution to keeping cats out of your yard is similar to ones I wish people would use to keep their cats in their own yards, where the animals would be so much safer. I like to recommend that cats be kept completely inside the house, but I know it's difficult to convert a cat who's used to going out. Many people just can't cope with all the feline complaining and open the door just to get a break from the demanding yowls.

Cat fencing is a good compromise, one that allows the cat to go outside but doesn't expose him to the dangers beyond his own back yard. The fencing also keeps the cat from messing in the neighbors' yards.

You can get do-it-yourself directions on the Web at www.feralcat.com/fence.html. You can also buy ready-made kits from Cat Fence-In (www.catfencein.com; (888) 738-9099) or Affordable Cat Fence (www.catfence.com; (888) 840-2287). Pictures of one do-it-yourself cat-fence installation are at www.lisaviolet.com/cathouse/backyard.html.

I wish more people would consider such fencing! The benefits are many to cats and neighbors alike.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600