After I wrote about pet-rescue groups, I got quite a few e-mails of support, most from people who are themselves rescue volunteers and were happy to see their efforts acknowledged and publicized. But one e-mail that wasn't so supportive really caught my attention.

"You noted there were downsides to dealing with rescue groups," wrote the anonymous e-mailer. "But among them you didn't list that these people are nuts."

The reader went on to complain about what happened when she tried to adopt a cat from a rescue group. "It would have been easier to adopt a baby, I swear," she wrote.

The rescue volunteers wanted her name, address and phone number, where she worked, what she did and how many hours she was away from home each day. If she had children, or a dog. They wanted to know if she'd ever had cats before, and what happened to each one.

The potential adopter thought this all pretty intrusive. "Why are they giving someone who wants to give a cat a good home such a hard time?" she asked.

Turns out they weren't done with her yet. The group wouldn't place a pet with anyone who wouldn't agree to keep the cat exclusively inside, or anyone who'd even consider declawing the animal. The woman has had free-roaming cats all her life, all either rescued strays or pets taken in from shelters or other animal welfare groups. She doesn't think it's fair to keep a cat completely inside, and she said she had no intention of keeping her next cat inside, either. And yes, she'd once declawed one of her cats, and couldn't promise it wouldn't happen again.

The rescue group turned down her application.

"These people treated me like they thought I was going to use the cat I wanted to adopt to train pit bulls to fight," she wrote. "I've loved my cats and have cared for them well. Where do these people get off judging me to be an unfit home?"

I've been on the other side of this fence from the reader, having once run a small rescue group. As a rescue volunteer, I had to say "no" to a few people whose intentions were good, but who I believed wouldn't be able to follow through with their promises. Although I loved making people happy, my main reason for volunteering was to restore the faith in humans that the animals in my care had before they were given up, and I knew that my goal would be accomplished only by finding a caring "forever" home for each animal.

That said, I do know of rescue groups that seem to go a little too far, insisting that there's only one right way to care for a pet -- their way. When I was volunteering in rescue, I tried very hard to judge each person on his or her merits, and not to deal in absolutes. For example, while some dog-rescue groups would automatically rule out someone who doesn't have a fenced yard, one of the most perfect homes I ever found for one of my foster dogs was with a woman who lived in a condo with no yard at all. She sent me pictures off and on for years, and the most kind-hearted thank-you note ever when the dog I placed with her finally died of old age.

I'd like to hear from more readers on this subject. Do you think rescue groups (and shelters) are too picky when it comes to placing pets? Have you ever been turned down for a pet you wanted to adopt, and did you think the reason you were given was fair? If you're a rescue volunteer, please tell me about the people you thought were perfect for the pets you were placing or those you turned down, and why. Drop me a note to the addresses at the end of the column. I'll follow up on this subject in a future column, and will post as many of the responses as I can on my Web site.

PETS ON THE WEB

A reader sent me a link to the Rate My Kitten site (www.ratemykitten.com), which has enough cat images to please even the most adoring of feline fans. The site is nothing fancy, just image after image of cats and kittens, along with a 1-through-10 scale of judging them. Top vote-getters are listed, as are the ones visitors liked least. Membership is optional.

THE SCOOP

The most numerous victims of the SARS virus aren't human, but animals, including cats and dogs reportedly slaughtered by the thousands in Asian countries even though no link has been made connecting the disease to domestic pets. (The civet cat, which has been reported to carry the SARS virus, is a wild animal related to the mongoose, not to the domestic cat.)

Diseases that are passed from animals to humans have always been a problem, and the best thing you can do to protect yourself is to keep your pets healthy and take commonplace precautions when it comes to handling animals.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control has put together a page of resources on the topic of zoonotic disease ("zoonotic" is the scientific term for diseases that move from animals to humans). Reviewing the information (www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dpd/parasiticpathways/animals.htm) is time well spent.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our dog was diagnosed with diabetes almost two years ago. We take him in every six months for testing to see how his diabetes is doing. So far, he has been getting a good report from the veterinarian. Our dog was overweight before he had diabetes, and a lot of overweight dogs can get diabetes, just as overweight people do.

Many people are unaware that dogs can get diabetes. When I go to the pharmacy to pick up his insulin, people give me a strange look when I tell them it's for my dog. Would you please inform others about this? –- P.M., via e-mail

A: Yes, pets do get diabetes, and yes, obesity is a factor, albeit not the only one. I can't tell you how many people over the years have written me with the assumption that diabetes is a death sentence for their pets, when that's simply not true, as you've found out.

As you've also discovered, diabetes does require regular monitoring by a veterinarian, as well as a fair amount of work (and expense) to determine the correct insulin dose in the weeks after diagnosis. Many people worry that they will not be able to give their pets insulin shots, but I've found that these same people eventually come to believe that giving shots is "no big deal."

The signs of diabetes may include high levels of hunger, thirst and urination, as well as weight loss. If your pet is showing these symptoms, you need to see your veterinarian, no matter what.

The Veterinary Partners Web site, owned by my "Cats for Dummies" author Dr. Paul Pion, offers good information on this disease (and others) at www.veterinarypartners.com (put "diabetes" in the site's search engine to bring up the information). Probably the best site on diabetes in pets is FelineDiabetes.com, which was started by a physician as a resource for others after his cat was diagnosed with the disease.

Q: I'm a first-time dog owner and I've just discovered ticks! What's the best prevention, and what should you do when you find a tick on your dog? –- S.L., via e-mail

A: Recently I was having dinner with some pet-loving friends (which is a little redundant: If you're a friend of mine, chances are very good indeed that you're a pet lover!). Topic of discussion: Are ticks the most disgusting thing you've ever seen? Consensus: Yes!

Aside from the gross-out factor, ticks are easy to deal with. For safety's sake, always be careful not to handle them with your bare hands. Instead, use tweezers or a tick-pulling device (shaped like a spoon with a slot in it to catch the tick) to remove the pest. You can collect pulled ticks in a bowl with rubbing alcohol in it, then flush the disgusting mess down the toilet when you've collected them all. Watch each area where a tick was for a couple of days, and if you see inflammation or infection, talk to your veterinarian.

Spot-on medications available from your veterinarian will help keep your pet free of both fleas and ticks, but if you live in an area with lots of the ticks, you may also need to add a tick collar. With any pest-control products, discuss the risks with your veterinarian, and be sure to follow directions to the letter for your pet's safety.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Your dog barks non-stop. Your dog digs, ruining your yard. Your dog chews anything he can get his teeth on.

What's missing from this picture? Chances are, it's exercise.

It's not news that we humans don't get enough exercise, so it's no surprise that our dogs aren't moving much, either. While most pet lovers recognize that exercise is good for their dogs, few seem to make the connection between a lack of exercise and behavioral problems that have excess energy and boredom as components.

While environmental management (such as removing barking triggers or giving a dog something acceptable to chew) and training your dog are important, these strategies are only part of the solution. Dogs aren't getting the exercise they need, and it's causing problems.

Look at the big, active dogs we adore, such as the Labrador, golden retriever and German shepherd. These breeds make up three of the American Kennel Club's top five most popular. You don't have to go far down the popularity list to find other active breeds as well. Factor in the countless retriever and shepherd mixes, and you have a lot of dogs whose genetics have prepared them to work nonstop, but are spending their lives in small, boring back yards.

And what are they doing to burn all that natural energy? You guessed it: barking, digging, chewing.

If you're thinking of getting a dog, think very seriously about what breed you want, and whether you can provide an active dog with the exercise it needs. If you can't honestly say that your dog will get 30 minutes of heart-thumping aerobic exercise at least three to four days a week -- daily is better -- then you really ought to reconsider gettting an active large breed.

Instead, consider the alternatives. For large breeds, look at the sight hounds, such as the greyhound, saluki or even the massive Irish wolfhound. These breeds were not developed to work all day like the retriever, husky and sheepdog, but rather to go all-out for a short period of time and then chill out. They're big, but they're couch potatoes by choice. Many guarding breeds, such as rottweilers, boxers and Akitas, also have relatively minimal exercise requirements. All dogs love and need their exercise, but not all dogs will go crazy if they don't get a ton of it.

Most small breeds are easy in the exercise department, too, not because they don't need a lot of exercise, but rather because it's not as difficult to exercise a small dog with short legs. A Yorkie, pug or corgi can get good exercise in a small yard or on a brisk walk.

If you must bring a large, active breed or mix into your home, then you also must meet your dog's needs when it comes to exercise.

Your efforts will pay off for you as well your dog. Experts agree: A dog that gets plenty of exercise is less likely to develop behavior problems and more likely to be able to overcome them if they're established. Plus, an active dog will be less likely to suffer from life-shortening obesity.

So get that leash. Find that ball. And make some time to get your dog out and running. Exercising your dog -- especially if you're a walker or runner -- is great for your own physical and mental health as well.

PETS ON THE WEB

Are you ever embarrassed to admit how much you love your cats? Would you be chagrined to know that others consider you the "crazy cat lady" of your office? If so, you'll enjoy the Web site of the Crazy Cat Ladies Society & Gentlemen's Auxiliary (www.crazycatladies.org). This charming site uses humor to counter the stereotypes of cat lovers. Along the way, the society also raises money for some worthy causes -- cat-related, of course. There's also a forum area to schmooze with like-minded cat lovers. Crazy cat ladies (and gentlemen) of the world unite!

THE SCOOP

As the weather heats up, it's essential that all pets have a constant source of fresh water that's protected from the heat of the sun. I remember almost renting a house that came equipped with one of those nifty dispensers that attach to an outdoor faucet and provide water when the dog licks the end (sort of like the set-ups used for rabbits and other small animals). Problem was, the faucet was in the sun, which meant the metal would be blistering hot on a day when a pet needed water most. I didn't take the place -- the street had too much traffic -- but I did unscrew the watering device and hand it to the rental agent with an explanation before I left.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm thinking of adopting a small poodle from animal rescue. I work full-time, and my back yard is just cement and a pool. I am wondering the best way to deal with poodle poop. (I'm hoping the poodle will already be house-trained.)

Since I don't really have anywhere in the back yard for the poodle to relieve herself ... well, what do I do? Can I litterbox-train her? Could I put some kind of adult diaper on the floor? -- K.H., via e-mail

A: Your dog doesn't need grass in the yard to use it. Think of all the dogs who live in Manhattan and how little grass they have to use. It's just a matter of acclimating the dog, with training and lots of praise, to use what's available.

I'm getting the sense, however, that you would find poodle poops by the pool to be a problem, and if that's the case, then yes, there are other options. You could walk the dog, being very sure to pick up those messes with a baggie. Or you could use a litterbox.

People with small dogs have used feline litterboxes for years, as well as newspapers spread on the floor. Neither solution was ideal, but in the last couple of years the litterbox option became much more viable when a major dog-food manufacturer threw its support into developing a box designed for dogs.

Purina's Secondnature system comes with a box and litter, along with a training brochure to help convert dogs to the indoor-only potty stop. You can find out more about the product on the Web site, Doglitter.com, or by calling (800) 7PURINA (778-7462).

Q: Thought I'd pass along a possible solution to the problem of stray cats messing on lawns. A friend suggested this solution, and it seems to be working so far.

I realized the cat was coming over my fence, so I laid chicken wire on the 2-by-4 runners along the fence. I stapled the chicken wire at a 45-degree angle on the fence and the 2-by-4s, thus leaving a space between the chicken wire and the 2-by-4.

The idea is that the cat won't walk on the chicken wire because its feet will get tangled up in it. It can also work if you leave chicken wire around the perimeter of the lawn because cats won't walk on it to get to the lawn; they just go to the neighbor's! -- J.D., via e-mail

A: I always know the weather is finally nice enough for gardening when people start writing me to complain about cat mess in their yards.

Your solution to keeping cats out of your yard is similar to ones I wish people would use to keep their cats in their own yards, where the animals would be so much safer. I like to recommend that cats be kept completely inside the house, but I know it's difficult to convert a cat who's used to going out. Many people just can't cope with all the feline complaining and open the door just to get a break from the demanding yowls.

Cat fencing is a good compromise, one that allows the cat to go outside but doesn't expose him to the dangers beyond his own back yard. The fencing also keeps the cat from messing in the neighbors' yards.

You can get do-it-yourself directions on the Web at www.feralcat.com/fence.html. You can also buy ready-made kits from Cat Fence-In (www.catfencein.com; (888) 738-9099) or Affordable Cat Fence (www.catfence.com; (888) 840-2287). Pictures of one do-it-yourself cat-fence installation are at www.lisaviolet.com/cathouse/backyard.html.

I wish more people would consider such fencing! The benefits are many to cats and neighbors alike.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Everyone who meets Drew falls in love with him, which leaves me perplexed as to why such a beautiful, friendly and well-mannered dog ended up needing a home.

Drew is the 5-year-old Sheltie who joined my family last November. I've never had a dog fit in so effortlessly, and bond so tightly. He is, in the words of one friend (who doesn't really like animals), a perfect pet.

There are so many other great pets like Drew out there, just waiting for someone to give them a second chance. Sometimes finding such a pet is as easy as going to the shelter. Other times, as with Drew, you have to snoop around a little to find a rescue group specializing in the kind of pet you're seeking.

Although everyone knows about shelters, rescue groups aren't as visible in their communities. But these grassroots organizations are an important part of the effort to find homes for pets in need and to support the efforts of larger, more established groups with sheltering facilities.

What differentiates rescue groups from humane societies is that rescue operations are usually quite small -- one or two people are usually the norm -- and typically focus their efforts on a single species or breed. While there are rescue groups specializing in such pets as rabbits, ferrets, cats and parrots, the largest number of these all-volunteer organizations are dedicated to the rescue of purebred dogs.

Breed-rescue groups usually work with a single breed, such as the pug, or with related breeds, such pack hounds or sight hounds.

Some breed-rescue groups work by referral only, keeping lists of dogs who need homes and referring potential adopters. Others take in dogs from shelters and private individuals and foster the dogs, a policy that allows them to get a good feel for an individual animal's personality.

The nature of breed rescue creates both advantages and disadvantages for a potential adopter.

The advantages include getting a vet-checked, altered and vaccinated purebred at a very reasonable price -- commonly, just the cost of the veterinary care. (Most other costs for rescue and fostering come out of the volunteers' own pockets.)

You may also get more personal service with a breed-rescue group than with a shelter. Some groups will put you on a waiting list if they don't have a dog who suits you, and also will work with other rescuers in the region to find what you want. Breed-rescue volunteers often live with the dogs they're trying to place, so they are more keenly aware of how each dog handles a home situation -- such as how the animals get along with cats.

Getting a dog through a breed-rescue group has drawbacks, too. Breed-rescue groups rely on volunteers, and volunteers sometimes get in over their heads and burn out. Rescue groups start up, stop, regroup and drop out at a surprising rate, which can make tracking down current breed-rescue contacts a little difficult. It can be hard, too, to find the same person you worked with if you have problems a year or two down the line.

But don't let these problems dissuade you if you're looking for a particular kind of pet. Shelters, veterinarians and reputable breeders may be able to provide you with a referral to a rescue group, or you can visit a Web site such as Petfinder.com, which encourages rescue groups to post their listings of adoptable pets. For purebred dogs, you can also search the Internet for the national club of the breed in which you're interested, and then click on the "rescue" link for contacts.

Working with a rescue group is both a good deal and a good deed. And it might net you a good pet like my darling Drew, the hard-luck pup who's now set for life.

PETS ON THE WEB

When readers ask me to advise them in choosing a small pet for a child, I know from experience my answer won't be met with enthusiasm. "Rats!" I say to those who insist on dismissing these clever, playful and affectionate pets, so perfect not only for responsible children but also for open-minded adults. Maybe what we need are a few children's books where rats aren't the bad guys.

If you're willing to consider a rat, be sure to check out the Rat Fan Club site (www.ratfanclub.org), a labor of love by club founder and leader Debbie "The Rat Lady" Ducommun. The site isn't anything fancy, but it does have a lot of good information on getting, raising and caring for these underappreciated pets.

THE SCOOP

Not long after I wrote my recent column on wanting a parrot again, I took the plunge, bringing home a 5-month-old black-headed caique. At this writing, the bird's gender is undetermined, a riddle that will be solved with a blood test when we visit our avian veterinarian for the first "well bird physical." Male or female, the youngster's name is Eddie, after the colorful and entertaining proprietor of a local breakfast joint. Caiques are lively, small parrots, known to be both clownish and sometimes bratty.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Please solve an argument my husband and I are having over our new rottie puppy, Kelsey. My husband grew up with dogs, and dry food was always kept available. I have read that it's better to feed set amounts at set times. Which is it? -- E.F., via e-mail

A: Most trainers and behaviorists believe it's better to control your dog's food and not free-feed. Here are the main reasons for this advice:

-- Obesity. Too much food and too little activity have the same effect on the canine body that it has on humans. Surveys show that the majority of pets brought into veterinary offices are a little pudgy, and some are downright huge. Letting an animal eat all he wants isn't a good plan if you want to keep him trim -- and you should!

-- Observation. Pets can't tell you with words when they're not feeling well, but they will tell you in behavior -- if you're paying attention. Appetite is one of the key measures of well-being, and free-feeding denies you the ability to observe this crucial indicator.

-- Behavior modification. Food is one of the most powerful tools you have when it comes to training your dog, and if your pet eats when and how he chooses, you've lost that edge. Some experts go so far as to suggest that at least in the beginning a dog should work for every morsel of food, using daily rations as part of a training program. (This also helps with weight-control, since dogs who eat full meals and then get treats in training are getting more calories than they need.)

But it's about more than the active art of training: Dogs understand instinctively that food is power, and if the human family members control the food, they are going a long way to being accepted as leaders. My dogs never get anything for free -- at the very least they must sit before those dishes hit the floor or treats are handed out. Sometimes, they are all put on "stay" before I give them the "OK" command and allow them to eat. Other times, I put them on stay and call them to me -- away from the food -- before they get to go back to those dishes and dig in.

These activities don't take more than a few minutes out of my day but they gently and subtly reinforce the idea that I am the head of this particular pack. And that understanding makes our household more pleasant.

So ... I'm with you on this one. Two measured meals a day, no free-feeding. Such a regimen will help your new pup to be trim, healthy and well-behaved.

Q: I followed your advice and sought out an avian specialist for my scarlet macaw. You mentioned that it's important to have a carrier for the bird, but I'm wondering what Sammy will do for water on the trip. -- S.D., via e-mail

A: Here's a tip I got from my "Birds For Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer: Put some fresh orange and apple slices in an unbreakable food crock, and set these goodies in the carrier with your bird. Many birds love these sweet, healthy treats, which will not only help keep them hydrated for the trip but also keep them busy in their carriers.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600