Everyone who meets Drew falls in love with him, which leaves me perplexed as to why such a beautiful, friendly and well-mannered dog ended up needing a home.

Drew is the 5-year-old Sheltie who joined my family last November. I've never had a dog fit in so effortlessly, and bond so tightly. He is, in the words of one friend (who doesn't really like animals), a perfect pet.

There are so many other great pets like Drew out there, just waiting for someone to give them a second chance. Sometimes finding such a pet is as easy as going to the shelter. Other times, as with Drew, you have to snoop around a little to find a rescue group specializing in the kind of pet you're seeking.

Although everyone knows about shelters, rescue groups aren't as visible in their communities. But these grassroots organizations are an important part of the effort to find homes for pets in need and to support the efforts of larger, more established groups with sheltering facilities.

What differentiates rescue groups from humane societies is that rescue operations are usually quite small -- one or two people are usually the norm -- and typically focus their efforts on a single species or breed. While there are rescue groups specializing in such pets as rabbits, ferrets, cats and parrots, the largest number of these all-volunteer organizations are dedicated to the rescue of purebred dogs.

Breed-rescue groups usually work with a single breed, such as the pug, or with related breeds, such pack hounds or sight hounds.

Some breed-rescue groups work by referral only, keeping lists of dogs who need homes and referring potential adopters. Others take in dogs from shelters and private individuals and foster the dogs, a policy that allows them to get a good feel for an individual animal's personality.

The nature of breed rescue creates both advantages and disadvantages for a potential adopter.

The advantages include getting a vet-checked, altered and vaccinated purebred at a very reasonable price -- commonly, just the cost of the veterinary care. (Most other costs for rescue and fostering come out of the volunteers' own pockets.)

You may also get more personal service with a breed-rescue group than with a shelter. Some groups will put you on a waiting list if they don't have a dog who suits you, and also will work with other rescuers in the region to find what you want. Breed-rescue volunteers often live with the dogs they're trying to place, so they are more keenly aware of how each dog handles a home situation -- such as how the animals get along with cats.

Getting a dog through a breed-rescue group has drawbacks, too. Breed-rescue groups rely on volunteers, and volunteers sometimes get in over their heads and burn out. Rescue groups start up, stop, regroup and drop out at a surprising rate, which can make tracking down current breed-rescue contacts a little difficult. It can be hard, too, to find the same person you worked with if you have problems a year or two down the line.

But don't let these problems dissuade you if you're looking for a particular kind of pet. Shelters, veterinarians and reputable breeders may be able to provide you with a referral to a rescue group, or you can visit a Web site such as Petfinder.com, which encourages rescue groups to post their listings of adoptable pets. For purebred dogs, you can also search the Internet for the national club of the breed in which you're interested, and then click on the "rescue" link for contacts.

Working with a rescue group is both a good deal and a good deed. And it might net you a good pet like my darling Drew, the hard-luck pup who's now set for life.

PETS ON THE WEB

When readers ask me to advise them in choosing a small pet for a child, I know from experience my answer won't be met with enthusiasm. "Rats!" I say to those who insist on dismissing these clever, playful and affectionate pets, so perfect not only for responsible children but also for open-minded adults. Maybe what we need are a few children's books where rats aren't the bad guys.

If you're willing to consider a rat, be sure to check out the Rat Fan Club site (www.ratfanclub.org), a labor of love by club founder and leader Debbie "The Rat Lady" Ducommun. The site isn't anything fancy, but it does have a lot of good information on getting, raising and caring for these underappreciated pets.

THE SCOOP

Not long after I wrote my recent column on wanting a parrot again, I took the plunge, bringing home a 5-month-old black-headed caique. At this writing, the bird's gender is undetermined, a riddle that will be solved with a blood test when we visit our avian veterinarian for the first "well bird physical." Male or female, the youngster's name is Eddie, after the colorful and entertaining proprietor of a local breakfast joint. Caiques are lively, small parrots, known to be both clownish and sometimes bratty.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Please solve an argument my husband and I are having over our new rottie puppy, Kelsey. My husband grew up with dogs, and dry food was always kept available. I have read that it's better to feed set amounts at set times. Which is it? -- E.F., via e-mail

A: Most trainers and behaviorists believe it's better to control your dog's food and not free-feed. Here are the main reasons for this advice:

-- Obesity. Too much food and too little activity have the same effect on the canine body that it has on humans. Surveys show that the majority of pets brought into veterinary offices are a little pudgy, and some are downright huge. Letting an animal eat all he wants isn't a good plan if you want to keep him trim -- and you should!

-- Observation. Pets can't tell you with words when they're not feeling well, but they will tell you in behavior -- if you're paying attention. Appetite is one of the key measures of well-being, and free-feeding denies you the ability to observe this crucial indicator.

-- Behavior modification. Food is one of the most powerful tools you have when it comes to training your dog, and if your pet eats when and how he chooses, you've lost that edge. Some experts go so far as to suggest that at least in the beginning a dog should work for every morsel of food, using daily rations as part of a training program. (This also helps with weight-control, since dogs who eat full meals and then get treats in training are getting more calories than they need.)

But it's about more than the active art of training: Dogs understand instinctively that food is power, and if the human family members control the food, they are going a long way to being accepted as leaders. My dogs never get anything for free -- at the very least they must sit before those dishes hit the floor or treats are handed out. Sometimes, they are all put on "stay" before I give them the "OK" command and allow them to eat. Other times, I put them on stay and call them to me -- away from the food -- before they get to go back to those dishes and dig in.

These activities don't take more than a few minutes out of my day but they gently and subtly reinforce the idea that I am the head of this particular pack. And that understanding makes our household more pleasant.

So ... I'm with you on this one. Two measured meals a day, no free-feeding. Such a regimen will help your new pup to be trim, healthy and well-behaved.

Q: I followed your advice and sought out an avian specialist for my scarlet macaw. You mentioned that it's important to have a carrier for the bird, but I'm wondering what Sammy will do for water on the trip. -- S.D., via e-mail

A: Here's a tip I got from my "Birds For Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer: Put some fresh orange and apple slices in an unbreakable food crock, and set these goodies in the carrier with your bird. Many birds love these sweet, healthy treats, which will not only help keep them hydrated for the trip but also keep them busy in their carriers.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When Patrick, my little Senegal parrot, died a couple of years ago, I missed him like crazy.

He had been a hard-luck bird, a sick, feather-picked mess who'd been given up by people who'd not been able to cope with the expense and time involved with his many health problems. But even as sick as he was, and as let down by humans as he must have felt, he stepped onto my hand the first time I offered it, and caught my eye with a look of fearless intelligence. I knew at that moment he would come home with me.

My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, examined Patrick thoroughly and ran some diagnostic tests. Then he had me work on the basics of good husbandry, including a healthy balanced diet. My own special contribution: lots of attention and affection, along with exercise and training.

Patrick's health improved dramatically. He still had a gimpy leg and still picked himself bald in a small spot now and then, but the seizures stopped. Over the months, it was apparent by his looks and his attitude that he was feeling fine, maybe for the first time in his life. Even better: His personality bloomed along with his new set of feathers.

People who don't have parrots don't understand how much intelligence is packed into those relatively small, lightweight and handsomely aerodynamic bodies. They see the beautiful colors of the birds, or they are amused by those individual birds who can mimic human speech. But people who love parrots know they are so much more (which is why I cringe when I see these intelligent beings used as "decor" in a hotel lobby or a restaurant).

Other people see parrots as low-maintenance pets: Throw 'em in a cage, feed 'em and you're done. In fact, they are more demanding than most other pets, and if not cared for properly -- and sometimes even (BEGIN ITAL)if(END ITAL) cared for properly -- will make themselves sick. Parrots need to be socialized. They're easily bored, very noisy and more than any other pet I can think of, they're messy almost beyond belief.

When Patrick's health problems caught up to him again and he died, I spent weeks catching up with the places he'd managed to fling food and poop. And it was this effort, more than anything else, that led me to donate his cage to the SPCA rummage sale and decide that the parrot chapter in my life was closed. I just didn't think I had the time or energy for the decades of commitment a parrot requires.

Late last year I sold my home and bought another. I fell in love with the new place for its large yard and the creek-side acreage that ran behind the property -- perfect for exercising my dogs. But the first time I looked at the house, I saw something more: a perfect spot for a bird cage. In the corner of the den was a freestanding wood stove, set on a tiled base that extended to the ceiling.

Floor to ceiling tile! Could there be any surface more perfect when it comes to bird mess?

The stove is gone now, and the tiled space where it was is now open ... and waiting. I've looked at cages, and I've thought about birds. It's still a massive commitment, and I don't want to make it without being as certain as I can be. I know the species I don't want -- the best of the talkers, the worst of the screamers -- and I've narrowed the field down to low-key parrots that best suit my personality. Including the Senegal, just like Patrick.

I think about Patrick a lot these days, and I miss him still. But what he taught me about parrots will never die, and some day soon one of these special beings will brighten my life again.

PETS ON THE WEB

Petfinder.com is one of my favorite places to send people who are looking to adopt a pet. The Web site showcases animals from more than 5,000 shelters and rescue groups, and its services are free to those who are offering the animals and to those who are looking for a pet to adopt. Even better: If you adopt a dog or cat from Petfinder, you'll be eligible for two months of free veterinary medical coverage from Pethealth, a company that offers health insurance for pets in most states and in Canada.

THE SCOOP

Springtime is when we all think of gardening. If you're putting in some new plants, don't forget to include a few your pets will enjoy. Carrots are favored by many dogs, and make a great substitute for commercial treats for overweight pups. Catnip is a natural for cats, but also consider valerian, another herb that makes kitties dance with joy. Rabbits, guinea pigs, rats and other rodents will enjoy any leafy vegetable you plant. And as for parrots, what's good for you is great for your bird. The fresher the better!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: The people who wrote to you recently with the "sort of adopted" cat might also consider, from the crusty ears they described, that their stray could have precancerous lesions, sunburning and possibly even squamous cell carcinoma. This is particularly likely if the cat is white.

I'm very sure you have encountered this, and would know that the kitty needs an aggressive approach, including biopsy and generous amputation to save the cat if it is indeed cancerous. Would you please let them know so they can get the help they need? -- Brian Putty, DVM, Fair Oaks, Calif.

A: Thanks for checking in, Dr. Putty! Your note is a good reminder why it's always important to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment of an animal's health problems. Too many times people turn to the Web or other sources to save them the time or money of seeing a veterinarian.

Problem is, most pet lovers aren't trained to recognize symptoms of disease, and they may be missing the most important ones. Sometimes, there's no harm done and the problem resolves itself; other times, diagnosing a pet's illness without the hands-on advice of a good veterinarian can put an animal in grave danger.

I would rather see my veterinarian a dozen times for something that turns out to be nothing, rather than miss the one time when the problem turns out to be serious. Better safe than sorry is always a good rule to follow when it comes to your pet's health.

Q: I have many pieces of glassware and figurines that I've collected over the years and that are very important to me. After my sweet old cat died early last year, I adopted a kitten. She's much more active than my old cat, and loves to jump up on things, including the shelves with my collectibles. She has already broken one piece, and two more would have been broken except that they fell onto the couch cushions. How can I keep her on the floor? -- N.W., via e-mail

A: Practically speaking, you can't keep cats on the ground. The best you can do is display your treasures in ways that keep them safe or, at least, safer.

You might consider moving your collections to a single room and keeping the door closed when you're not around to supervise. Glass-fronted bookcases are another option for keeping collectibles and cats apart.

Although it's probably best to keep your most valuable pieces where your cat can't get to them, other objects can be made safer from the wanderings of active cats. Two products that will help: Quake Hold or Museum Gel, both putties that seal objects to their display surface. If you can't find it at your home-supply store, check out catalog and Internet retailers.

Q: Can you give me some suggestions on local organizations I could send a small donation to in the memory of a friend's beloved dog who recently had to be euthanized? -- K.R., via e-mail

A: Donating in the memory of a friend's pet is one of the kindest ways to show you care. Especially when you consider there are always folks around who are quick to ridicule those who grieve the loss of a pet. Message to the "but it's just a dog (cat, iguana, parrot)!" crowd: Grief is grief.

You can't go wrong donating to your local SPCA or humane association, and these groups have programs in place to send a card in acknowledgment of your gift. A donation to your local school or college of veterinary medicine is also a good choice, as is a gift to regional nonprofit groups that train dogs to assist people, such as search-and-rescue dogs, hearing dogs or dogs who assist people who use wheelchairs.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Toys are essential to maintaining the physical and mental well-being of parrots large and small. Playthings help keep pet birds fit while fighting the boredom that can contribute to behavioral problems such as feather-picking.

There are toys your bird can hold, toys that hang from the top and sides of the cage, and toys that do double duty as perches and swings. Twirlies, holdies, chewies, puzzles and noisemakers can all keep your bird occupied. Although you can buy toys by major manufacturers from the big chain stores, it's also nice to choose from the variety of playthings lovingly made by a cottage industry of bird lovers and available from independent bird shops, through catalogs and on the Internet.

Some basic rules apply when shopping for toys, to ensure they are suitable and safe for your bird. Look for the following when choosing bird toys:

-- Materials: Toys are subject to your bird's healthy urge to destroy, which means safe components are a must. Wood, rawhide, plastic or stainless steel chain, rope, cloth and hard plastic are among the more popular materials that make up safe toys. Choose toys that break down into pieces that can't be swallowed. An exception: Toys made to hold food items, such as dried corncobs or fruit chunks. With these, eating is a large part of the fun.

-- Construction: Challenging toys, the best choice for busy birds, feature pieces combined in ways that make it hard for the birds to pull the whole product apart -- but not too hard. Indestructible toys are not appropriate for most birds, because the time and energy used to rip apart the gadget is part of the reason toys fill such a need.

-- Size: Little toys for little birds, big toys for big birds. A big bird can catch and lose a toe in a toy made for a smaller bird, and small birds can get their heads trapped in toys made for their larger relatives.

Some birds are apprehensive of new toys. If yours is one of them, try to set the toy outside the cage (but within eye range) for a day or two and then put it on the floor of the cage for another day or two. Once your bird starts to play with the toy, you can go ahead and attach it to the cage. (Stainless steel split-ring key chains, available at any hardware store, are a safe, secure and inexpensive way to attach toys to cage bars.)

Don't overwhelm your pet with toys. Instead, keep two or three in the cage and rotate new ones in regularly. Shopping for bird toys can be fun, but the costs do add up, especially if you have one of those gleefully destructive parrots. With some creativity you can make your money go further by complementing store-bought bird toys with alternatives.

The cardboard cores of toilet-paper and paper-towel rolls are perfect for shredding, especially for smaller birds. String those tubes together on a thick leather cord and hang them in your bird's cage. Other cheapies include ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed, ping-pong balls, old plastic measuring cups and spoons and plastic bottle tops. (Wash in hot soap and water, rinse well and air-dry before offering such items to your bird.)

Toothbrushes are another bargain toy, sturdy and colorful. You can buy cheap ones new or give your pet your worn ones after running them through your dishwasher. (Or hand-washing in soapy water, followed by rinsing and air-drying.) The hard plastic keys on a ring sold for human babies are also a budget-wise buy that birds love, and real keys can be just as fun, after a scrubbing.

Keep your eyes and mind open for playthings your bird can enjoy -- you may surprise yourself with the possibilities!

PETS ON THE WEB

Is pizza OK as an occasional treat for iguanas? How big will my kid's little iguana get? The answers to these and many other questions can be found on The Iguana Pages (www.baskingspot.com/iguanas), a collection dedicated to keeping people who can't or won't care for these pets from getting one, and helping those people who already have one. The site is well-organized and the writing is wonderful -- you'll find yourself smiling as you read along. A little pizza, by the way, is fine, as long as your pet's nutritional needs are met with the rest of his diet. And that little pet won't remain so small -- iguanas can grow to 5 or 6 feet in length.

THE SCOOP

Small birds such as finches are able to travel in the cage they live in every day, but that's not an option for bigger birds whose larger cages aren't designed for portability. For the bigger birds, a separate cage or carrier for travel and emergencies is well worth the investment.

While you can find small cages designed for the purpose of transporting birds, your bird will do just as well with a carrier designed for cats or small dogs, the kind made of high-impact plastic with vents on the side and a grid door on the front or top. For short trips, no perch is necessary -- just put down a clean towel to give your bird solid footing.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am facing relocation from Sacramento, Calif., to the Orlando, Fla., area at the end of September. I have two cats, neither of whom likes riding in the car. One particularly hates it and has to be tranquilized to get from my house to the veterinarian (a 15-minute ride).

My choices for taking them are car or air. If I went by car, I think the trip would take four to five days. Any advice? -- C.C., via e-mail

A: If you're up for the drive, you may be surprised at how well your cats will cope with a long trip. Ideally, set them up in carriers large enough to hold a bed and a small litter tray. Alternately, secure them in their regular carriers and allow them breaks in the car every few hours when you stop for your own needs. Cover the carriers with towels to increase their feelings of security.

Because your pets are small enough to fly as carry-on baggage, air travel isn't a bad option. (I'm not so keen on sending pets by air when it means putting them in cargo.) Because of the one pet per passenger guidelines, you'll need to bring a friend along to carry the second cat, but since there are plenty of theme parks at the end of the trip, it shouldn't be hard to find someone who's willing to go. Check with your airline well in advance to reserve space, as there are limits to how many pets can be in the cabin on any given flight.

If you do take your cats as carry-on baggage, you'll need soft-sided carriers that fit under the seat. I like the pet carriers made by SturdiProducts (www.sturdibag.com; 800-779-8193). These have flexible cloth-covered ribs that form a dome over the pet, giving the animal some breathing room.

No matter how you travel, make sure your pets are comfortably fitted with collars and ID tags. They should also be wearing cat harnesses and leashes for safety whenever they're out of their carriers. Talk to your veterinarian about tranquilizers: In most cases they're not recommended, but your cats may be an exception.

Q: Will garlic keep my pet flea-free? -- F.W., via e-mail

A: There's no scientific evidence that garlic (or brewer's yeast, which I'm often asked about) will control fleas on pets. The best advice I can offer is to ask your veterinarian for one of the topical products that control fleas. These products are considered to be generally safe when used as directed on healthy pets.

If you're determined to control fleas without chemicals, your best bet is to wash your pet's bedding and vacuum pet areas frequently to remove eggs and developing fleas. Use a flea comb to catch the adult pests on your pet. You can flick adult fleas into a bowl of warm, soapy water, and pour the drowned pests down the drain when you're done. You'll likely still have fleas using these strategies, but if you're diligent, you might be able to keep the infestation down to tolerable levels.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600