When Patrick, my little Senegal parrot, died a couple of years ago, I missed him like crazy.

He had been a hard-luck bird, a sick, feather-picked mess who'd been given up by people who'd not been able to cope with the expense and time involved with his many health problems. But even as sick as he was, and as let down by humans as he must have felt, he stepped onto my hand the first time I offered it, and caught my eye with a look of fearless intelligence. I knew at that moment he would come home with me.

My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, examined Patrick thoroughly and ran some diagnostic tests. Then he had me work on the basics of good husbandry, including a healthy balanced diet. My own special contribution: lots of attention and affection, along with exercise and training.

Patrick's health improved dramatically. He still had a gimpy leg and still picked himself bald in a small spot now and then, but the seizures stopped. Over the months, it was apparent by his looks and his attitude that he was feeling fine, maybe for the first time in his life. Even better: His personality bloomed along with his new set of feathers.

People who don't have parrots don't understand how much intelligence is packed into those relatively small, lightweight and handsomely aerodynamic bodies. They see the beautiful colors of the birds, or they are amused by those individual birds who can mimic human speech. But people who love parrots know they are so much more (which is why I cringe when I see these intelligent beings used as "decor" in a hotel lobby or a restaurant).

Other people see parrots as low-maintenance pets: Throw 'em in a cage, feed 'em and you're done. In fact, they are more demanding than most other pets, and if not cared for properly -- and sometimes even (BEGIN ITAL)if(END ITAL) cared for properly -- will make themselves sick. Parrots need to be socialized. They're easily bored, very noisy and more than any other pet I can think of, they're messy almost beyond belief.

When Patrick's health problems caught up to him again and he died, I spent weeks catching up with the places he'd managed to fling food and poop. And it was this effort, more than anything else, that led me to donate his cage to the SPCA rummage sale and decide that the parrot chapter in my life was closed. I just didn't think I had the time or energy for the decades of commitment a parrot requires.

Late last year I sold my home and bought another. I fell in love with the new place for its large yard and the creek-side acreage that ran behind the property -- perfect for exercising my dogs. But the first time I looked at the house, I saw something more: a perfect spot for a bird cage. In the corner of the den was a freestanding wood stove, set on a tiled base that extended to the ceiling.

Floor to ceiling tile! Could there be any surface more perfect when it comes to bird mess?

The stove is gone now, and the tiled space where it was is now open ... and waiting. I've looked at cages, and I've thought about birds. It's still a massive commitment, and I don't want to make it without being as certain as I can be. I know the species I don't want -- the best of the talkers, the worst of the screamers -- and I've narrowed the field down to low-key parrots that best suit my personality. Including the Senegal, just like Patrick.

I think about Patrick a lot these days, and I miss him still. But what he taught me about parrots will never die, and some day soon one of these special beings will brighten my life again.

PETS ON THE WEB

Petfinder.com is one of my favorite places to send people who are looking to adopt a pet. The Web site showcases animals from more than 5,000 shelters and rescue groups, and its services are free to those who are offering the animals and to those who are looking for a pet to adopt. Even better: If you adopt a dog or cat from Petfinder, you'll be eligible for two months of free veterinary medical coverage from Pethealth, a company that offers health insurance for pets in most states and in Canada.

THE SCOOP

Springtime is when we all think of gardening. If you're putting in some new plants, don't forget to include a few your pets will enjoy. Carrots are favored by many dogs, and make a great substitute for commercial treats for overweight pups. Catnip is a natural for cats, but also consider valerian, another herb that makes kitties dance with joy. Rabbits, guinea pigs, rats and other rodents will enjoy any leafy vegetable you plant. And as for parrots, what's good for you is great for your bird. The fresher the better!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: The people who wrote to you recently with the "sort of adopted" cat might also consider, from the crusty ears they described, that their stray could have precancerous lesions, sunburning and possibly even squamous cell carcinoma. This is particularly likely if the cat is white.

I'm very sure you have encountered this, and would know that the kitty needs an aggressive approach, including biopsy and generous amputation to save the cat if it is indeed cancerous. Would you please let them know so they can get the help they need? -- Brian Putty, DVM, Fair Oaks, Calif.

A: Thanks for checking in, Dr. Putty! Your note is a good reminder why it's always important to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment of an animal's health problems. Too many times people turn to the Web or other sources to save them the time or money of seeing a veterinarian.

Problem is, most pet lovers aren't trained to recognize symptoms of disease, and they may be missing the most important ones. Sometimes, there's no harm done and the problem resolves itself; other times, diagnosing a pet's illness without the hands-on advice of a good veterinarian can put an animal in grave danger.

I would rather see my veterinarian a dozen times for something that turns out to be nothing, rather than miss the one time when the problem turns out to be serious. Better safe than sorry is always a good rule to follow when it comes to your pet's health.

Q: I have many pieces of glassware and figurines that I've collected over the years and that are very important to me. After my sweet old cat died early last year, I adopted a kitten. She's much more active than my old cat, and loves to jump up on things, including the shelves with my collectibles. She has already broken one piece, and two more would have been broken except that they fell onto the couch cushions. How can I keep her on the floor? -- N.W., via e-mail

A: Practically speaking, you can't keep cats on the ground. The best you can do is display your treasures in ways that keep them safe or, at least, safer.

You might consider moving your collections to a single room and keeping the door closed when you're not around to supervise. Glass-fronted bookcases are another option for keeping collectibles and cats apart.

Although it's probably best to keep your most valuable pieces where your cat can't get to them, other objects can be made safer from the wanderings of active cats. Two products that will help: Quake Hold or Museum Gel, both putties that seal objects to their display surface. If you can't find it at your home-supply store, check out catalog and Internet retailers.

Q: Can you give me some suggestions on local organizations I could send a small donation to in the memory of a friend's beloved dog who recently had to be euthanized? -- K.R., via e-mail

A: Donating in the memory of a friend's pet is one of the kindest ways to show you care. Especially when you consider there are always folks around who are quick to ridicule those who grieve the loss of a pet. Message to the "but it's just a dog (cat, iguana, parrot)!" crowd: Grief is grief.

You can't go wrong donating to your local SPCA or humane association, and these groups have programs in place to send a card in acknowledgment of your gift. A donation to your local school or college of veterinary medicine is also a good choice, as is a gift to regional nonprofit groups that train dogs to assist people, such as search-and-rescue dogs, hearing dogs or dogs who assist people who use wheelchairs.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Toys are essential to maintaining the physical and mental well-being of parrots large and small. Playthings help keep pet birds fit while fighting the boredom that can contribute to behavioral problems such as feather-picking.

There are toys your bird can hold, toys that hang from the top and sides of the cage, and toys that do double duty as perches and swings. Twirlies, holdies, chewies, puzzles and noisemakers can all keep your bird occupied. Although you can buy toys by major manufacturers from the big chain stores, it's also nice to choose from the variety of playthings lovingly made by a cottage industry of bird lovers and available from independent bird shops, through catalogs and on the Internet.

Some basic rules apply when shopping for toys, to ensure they are suitable and safe for your bird. Look for the following when choosing bird toys:

-- Materials: Toys are subject to your bird's healthy urge to destroy, which means safe components are a must. Wood, rawhide, plastic or stainless steel chain, rope, cloth and hard plastic are among the more popular materials that make up safe toys. Choose toys that break down into pieces that can't be swallowed. An exception: Toys made to hold food items, such as dried corncobs or fruit chunks. With these, eating is a large part of the fun.

-- Construction: Challenging toys, the best choice for busy birds, feature pieces combined in ways that make it hard for the birds to pull the whole product apart -- but not too hard. Indestructible toys are not appropriate for most birds, because the time and energy used to rip apart the gadget is part of the reason toys fill such a need.

-- Size: Little toys for little birds, big toys for big birds. A big bird can catch and lose a toe in a toy made for a smaller bird, and small birds can get their heads trapped in toys made for their larger relatives.

Some birds are apprehensive of new toys. If yours is one of them, try to set the toy outside the cage (but within eye range) for a day or two and then put it on the floor of the cage for another day or two. Once your bird starts to play with the toy, you can go ahead and attach it to the cage. (Stainless steel split-ring key chains, available at any hardware store, are a safe, secure and inexpensive way to attach toys to cage bars.)

Don't overwhelm your pet with toys. Instead, keep two or three in the cage and rotate new ones in regularly. Shopping for bird toys can be fun, but the costs do add up, especially if you have one of those gleefully destructive parrots. With some creativity you can make your money go further by complementing store-bought bird toys with alternatives.

The cardboard cores of toilet-paper and paper-towel rolls are perfect for shredding, especially for smaller birds. String those tubes together on a thick leather cord and hang them in your bird's cage. Other cheapies include ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed, ping-pong balls, old plastic measuring cups and spoons and plastic bottle tops. (Wash in hot soap and water, rinse well and air-dry before offering such items to your bird.)

Toothbrushes are another bargain toy, sturdy and colorful. You can buy cheap ones new or give your pet your worn ones after running them through your dishwasher. (Or hand-washing in soapy water, followed by rinsing and air-drying.) The hard plastic keys on a ring sold for human babies are also a budget-wise buy that birds love, and real keys can be just as fun, after a scrubbing.

Keep your eyes and mind open for playthings your bird can enjoy -- you may surprise yourself with the possibilities!

PETS ON THE WEB

Is pizza OK as an occasional treat for iguanas? How big will my kid's little iguana get? The answers to these and many other questions can be found on The Iguana Pages (www.baskingspot.com/iguanas), a collection dedicated to keeping people who can't or won't care for these pets from getting one, and helping those people who already have one. The site is well-organized and the writing is wonderful -- you'll find yourself smiling as you read along. A little pizza, by the way, is fine, as long as your pet's nutritional needs are met with the rest of his diet. And that little pet won't remain so small -- iguanas can grow to 5 or 6 feet in length.

THE SCOOP

Small birds such as finches are able to travel in the cage they live in every day, but that's not an option for bigger birds whose larger cages aren't designed for portability. For the bigger birds, a separate cage or carrier for travel and emergencies is well worth the investment.

While you can find small cages designed for the purpose of transporting birds, your bird will do just as well with a carrier designed for cats or small dogs, the kind made of high-impact plastic with vents on the side and a grid door on the front or top. For short trips, no perch is necessary -- just put down a clean towel to give your bird solid footing.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am facing relocation from Sacramento, Calif., to the Orlando, Fla., area at the end of September. I have two cats, neither of whom likes riding in the car. One particularly hates it and has to be tranquilized to get from my house to the veterinarian (a 15-minute ride).

My choices for taking them are car or air. If I went by car, I think the trip would take four to five days. Any advice? -- C.C., via e-mail

A: If you're up for the drive, you may be surprised at how well your cats will cope with a long trip. Ideally, set them up in carriers large enough to hold a bed and a small litter tray. Alternately, secure them in their regular carriers and allow them breaks in the car every few hours when you stop for your own needs. Cover the carriers with towels to increase their feelings of security.

Because your pets are small enough to fly as carry-on baggage, air travel isn't a bad option. (I'm not so keen on sending pets by air when it means putting them in cargo.) Because of the one pet per passenger guidelines, you'll need to bring a friend along to carry the second cat, but since there are plenty of theme parks at the end of the trip, it shouldn't be hard to find someone who's willing to go. Check with your airline well in advance to reserve space, as there are limits to how many pets can be in the cabin on any given flight.

If you do take your cats as carry-on baggage, you'll need soft-sided carriers that fit under the seat. I like the pet carriers made by SturdiProducts (www.sturdibag.com; 800-779-8193). These have flexible cloth-covered ribs that form a dome over the pet, giving the animal some breathing room.

No matter how you travel, make sure your pets are comfortably fitted with collars and ID tags. They should also be wearing cat harnesses and leashes for safety whenever they're out of their carriers. Talk to your veterinarian about tranquilizers: In most cases they're not recommended, but your cats may be an exception.

Q: Will garlic keep my pet flea-free? -- F.W., via e-mail

A: There's no scientific evidence that garlic (or brewer's yeast, which I'm often asked about) will control fleas on pets. The best advice I can offer is to ask your veterinarian for one of the topical products that control fleas. These products are considered to be generally safe when used as directed on healthy pets.

If you're determined to control fleas without chemicals, your best bet is to wash your pet's bedding and vacuum pet areas frequently to remove eggs and developing fleas. Use a flea comb to catch the adult pests on your pet. You can flick adult fleas into a bowl of warm, soapy water, and pour the drowned pests down the drain when you're done. You'll likely still have fleas using these strategies, but if you're diligent, you might be able to keep the infestation down to tolerable levels.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A great many cat lovers want more than one cat, but a great many cats would be happier alone. Or so think the cats, when a new pet comes home.

Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with many pitfalls along the way. Some resident cats hide under the bed when a new cat or kitten is introduced. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

But most cats will eventually adapt to the change, and for some the addition of a companion is a wonderful idea.

If you don't have a cat yet, and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt a pair at the same time. It might be even easier if the kittens or cats are siblings, since they'll already be familiar with one another. But even if you adopt two unrelated cats or kittens (or a cat and a kitten), bringing them into a new home together works well, since neither has established territory in the new environment.

That said, even an established adult will usually learn to accept a new cat or kitten.

Since the worst territorial spats are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned. You should also take the new cat or kitten to your veterinarian before bringing him home, to be certified free of parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, toys and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Then, start the introductions by pushing no introduction at all.

Bring the new cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal on his own, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore awhile and then put him on the other side of the door and close it. When the new cat is alone with you in the room, open the carrier door. Leave the new cat alone in the room with the door closed.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

As the days go by, you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. If they're willing, feed them in ever-closer proximity, taking your cue from the cats as to how quickly to go.

Some cats will always maintain their own territories within the house -- I've known pairs who happily maintained a one upstairs, one downstairs arrangement for life -- while others will happily share everything from litter boxes to food dishes. Let the cats figure it out, and don't force them to share if they don't want to. Some cats will always need separate litter boxes, scratching posts, bowls and toys -- and providing them is a small investment if it keeps the peace.

Most cats will eventually learn to live together closely. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it. And your cat will too, although he'll never admit you were right.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Animal Hospital Association has a pet first-aid page (www.healthypet.com/Library/petcare-36.html) that provides a list of emergency symptoms and what to do about them. The site is very clear in stressing that first aid should never take the place of veterinary care, and is meant to help until a pet can be placed in the hands of an expert. It's a good page to read in advance, to familiarize yourself with symptoms and emergency treatment. If your pet is seriously sick or injured, though, don't waste time cruising the Web for information: See your veterinarian right away.

THE SCOOP

A lot of people won't collar their cats, fearing that the material will become caught while the animal's roaming. One solution is breakaway collars, which offer an elastic panel meant to allow a cat to wriggle free if snagged. The problem with that, in the eyes of some, is that their wandering pets are constantly coming home without the collar, which becomes a bother and expense to replace.

If your cat isn't collared, consider this: Less than 2 percent of all lost cats are ever found, according to the National Council of Pet Population Study and Policy. For a roaming cat, the best insurance policy you can buy is an ID tag and a collar to hang it on. Also consider a microchip ID, which your veterinarian can insert under the skin with little discomfort to your pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Your article about getting a puppy "for the kids" was a real heartbreaker. I know it happens (quite often, I fear), as I saw it firsthand with some next-door neighbors we had a few years ago.

Could the problem have been avoided if the family had gotten an easygoing adult dog rather than a puppy? If so, that would be excellent advice for other people (and dogs) in similar situations. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: Yes, you're absolutely right: A well-chosen adult dog can often fit into families that don't really have the expertise or time to raise a puppy right. (If they indeed have the time to care for a dog at all, that is, and that's a mighty big "if.")

Problem is, a lot of parents won't even consider an adult dog, remaining stuck on the image of a puppy for the kids. And that's too bad, because a lot of adult dogs will die waiting for homes that never come, and many of these animals are exactly what these families need -- house-trained, relaxed and well past the chewing and general mayhem stage puppies go through.

Because some adult dogs come with behavioral problems that are too difficult for the average pet lover to fix, I recommend working with shelters or rescue groups when choosing an adult dog. The best of these organizations put their dogs through temperament testing -- and even some training -- before allowing the animals to go up for adoption. And then, they work to match a family's lifestyle with the dog who'll be right for them.

Q: Thank you for your wonderful article about adopting greyhounds. I have adopted retired greys for years, and have my fifth one now. All have been great companions.

One greyhound I had when I lived in Pensacola, Fla., was found in the woods by some hunters. She had been shot (I guess she must have lost a race), but was still alive. She was the best dog, and I was privileged to have her nine years before she died.

Well, enough of my reminiscing -- just wanted to say "thank you" for promoting adoption of my beloved greys. Next time, you might mention that greyhounds make wonderful "therapy pets" for taking to nursing homes, schools for children with special needs, etc., as they generally have such calm personalities. -- J.A., via e-mail

A: Too many racing greyhounds end up the way yours almost did -- with a bullet to the back of the head as a reward for trying their best and falling short. Thank heavens for rescue groups and people willing to adopt these mostly gentle and easygoing dogs.

Greyhound adoption groups are active even in states where racing isn't legal. That's because the organizations are loosely joined by a network of volunteers willing to move the animals from racetracks to areas with large populations of potential adopters.

One way to find a local or regional adoption group is to visit the Web site of the Greyhound Adoption Project (www.adopt-a-greyhound.org), which offers listings of dozens of such organizations. Greyhound Pets of America (www.greyhoundpets.org) also offers a toll-free referral number, (800) 366-1472. You'll also find lots of good information on what these animals are like on the Web pages, to make sure this breed is right for you.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600