Toys are essential to maintaining the physical and mental well-being of parrots large and small. Playthings help keep pet birds fit while fighting the boredom that can contribute to behavioral problems such as feather-picking.

There are toys your bird can hold, toys that hang from the top and sides of the cage, and toys that do double duty as perches and swings. Twirlies, holdies, chewies, puzzles and noisemakers can all keep your bird occupied. Although you can buy toys by major manufacturers from the big chain stores, it's also nice to choose from the variety of playthings lovingly made by a cottage industry of bird lovers and available from independent bird shops, through catalogs and on the Internet.

Some basic rules apply when shopping for toys, to ensure they are suitable and safe for your bird. Look for the following when choosing bird toys:

-- Materials: Toys are subject to your bird's healthy urge to destroy, which means safe components are a must. Wood, rawhide, plastic or stainless steel chain, rope, cloth and hard plastic are among the more popular materials that make up safe toys. Choose toys that break down into pieces that can't be swallowed. An exception: Toys made to hold food items, such as dried corncobs or fruit chunks. With these, eating is a large part of the fun.

-- Construction: Challenging toys, the best choice for busy birds, feature pieces combined in ways that make it hard for the birds to pull the whole product apart -- but not too hard. Indestructible toys are not appropriate for most birds, because the time and energy used to rip apart the gadget is part of the reason toys fill such a need.

-- Size: Little toys for little birds, big toys for big birds. A big bird can catch and lose a toe in a toy made for a smaller bird, and small birds can get their heads trapped in toys made for their larger relatives.

Some birds are apprehensive of new toys. If yours is one of them, try to set the toy outside the cage (but within eye range) for a day or two and then put it on the floor of the cage for another day or two. Once your bird starts to play with the toy, you can go ahead and attach it to the cage. (Stainless steel split-ring key chains, available at any hardware store, are a safe, secure and inexpensive way to attach toys to cage bars.)

Don't overwhelm your pet with toys. Instead, keep two or three in the cage and rotate new ones in regularly. Shopping for bird toys can be fun, but the costs do add up, especially if you have one of those gleefully destructive parrots. With some creativity you can make your money go further by complementing store-bought bird toys with alternatives.

The cardboard cores of toilet-paper and paper-towel rolls are perfect for shredding, especially for smaller birds. String those tubes together on a thick leather cord and hang them in your bird's cage. Other cheapies include ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed, ping-pong balls, old plastic measuring cups and spoons and plastic bottle tops. (Wash in hot soap and water, rinse well and air-dry before offering such items to your bird.)

Toothbrushes are another bargain toy, sturdy and colorful. You can buy cheap ones new or give your pet your worn ones after running them through your dishwasher. (Or hand-washing in soapy water, followed by rinsing and air-drying.) The hard plastic keys on a ring sold for human babies are also a budget-wise buy that birds love, and real keys can be just as fun, after a scrubbing.

Keep your eyes and mind open for playthings your bird can enjoy -- you may surprise yourself with the possibilities!

PETS ON THE WEB

Is pizza OK as an occasional treat for iguanas? How big will my kid's little iguana get? The answers to these and many other questions can be found on The Iguana Pages (www.baskingspot.com/iguanas), a collection dedicated to keeping people who can't or won't care for these pets from getting one, and helping those people who already have one. The site is well-organized and the writing is wonderful -- you'll find yourself smiling as you read along. A little pizza, by the way, is fine, as long as your pet's nutritional needs are met with the rest of his diet. And that little pet won't remain so small -- iguanas can grow to 5 or 6 feet in length.

THE SCOOP

Small birds such as finches are able to travel in the cage they live in every day, but that's not an option for bigger birds whose larger cages aren't designed for portability. For the bigger birds, a separate cage or carrier for travel and emergencies is well worth the investment.

While you can find small cages designed for the purpose of transporting birds, your bird will do just as well with a carrier designed for cats or small dogs, the kind made of high-impact plastic with vents on the side and a grid door on the front or top. For short trips, no perch is necessary -- just put down a clean towel to give your bird solid footing.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am facing relocation from Sacramento, Calif., to the Orlando, Fla., area at the end of September. I have two cats, neither of whom likes riding in the car. One particularly hates it and has to be tranquilized to get from my house to the veterinarian (a 15-minute ride).

My choices for taking them are car or air. If I went by car, I think the trip would take four to five days. Any advice? -- C.C., via e-mail

A: If you're up for the drive, you may be surprised at how well your cats will cope with a long trip. Ideally, set them up in carriers large enough to hold a bed and a small litter tray. Alternately, secure them in their regular carriers and allow them breaks in the car every few hours when you stop for your own needs. Cover the carriers with towels to increase their feelings of security.

Because your pets are small enough to fly as carry-on baggage, air travel isn't a bad option. (I'm not so keen on sending pets by air when it means putting them in cargo.) Because of the one pet per passenger guidelines, you'll need to bring a friend along to carry the second cat, but since there are plenty of theme parks at the end of the trip, it shouldn't be hard to find someone who's willing to go. Check with your airline well in advance to reserve space, as there are limits to how many pets can be in the cabin on any given flight.

If you do take your cats as carry-on baggage, you'll need soft-sided carriers that fit under the seat. I like the pet carriers made by SturdiProducts (www.sturdibag.com; 800-779-8193). These have flexible cloth-covered ribs that form a dome over the pet, giving the animal some breathing room.

No matter how you travel, make sure your pets are comfortably fitted with collars and ID tags. They should also be wearing cat harnesses and leashes for safety whenever they're out of their carriers. Talk to your veterinarian about tranquilizers: In most cases they're not recommended, but your cats may be an exception.

Q: Will garlic keep my pet flea-free? -- F.W., via e-mail

A: There's no scientific evidence that garlic (or brewer's yeast, which I'm often asked about) will control fleas on pets. The best advice I can offer is to ask your veterinarian for one of the topical products that control fleas. These products are considered to be generally safe when used as directed on healthy pets.

If you're determined to control fleas without chemicals, your best bet is to wash your pet's bedding and vacuum pet areas frequently to remove eggs and developing fleas. Use a flea comb to catch the adult pests on your pet. You can flick adult fleas into a bowl of warm, soapy water, and pour the drowned pests down the drain when you're done. You'll likely still have fleas using these strategies, but if you're diligent, you might be able to keep the infestation down to tolerable levels.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A great many cat lovers want more than one cat, but a great many cats would be happier alone. Or so think the cats, when a new pet comes home.

Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with many pitfalls along the way. Some resident cats hide under the bed when a new cat or kitten is introduced. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

But most cats will eventually adapt to the change, and for some the addition of a companion is a wonderful idea.

If you don't have a cat yet, and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt a pair at the same time. It might be even easier if the kittens or cats are siblings, since they'll already be familiar with one another. But even if you adopt two unrelated cats or kittens (or a cat and a kitten), bringing them into a new home together works well, since neither has established territory in the new environment.

That said, even an established adult will usually learn to accept a new cat or kitten.

Since the worst territorial spats are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned. You should also take the new cat or kitten to your veterinarian before bringing him home, to be certified free of parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, toys and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Then, start the introductions by pushing no introduction at all.

Bring the new cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal on his own, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore awhile and then put him on the other side of the door and close it. When the new cat is alone with you in the room, open the carrier door. Leave the new cat alone in the room with the door closed.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

As the days go by, you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. If they're willing, feed them in ever-closer proximity, taking your cue from the cats as to how quickly to go.

Some cats will always maintain their own territories within the house -- I've known pairs who happily maintained a one upstairs, one downstairs arrangement for life -- while others will happily share everything from litter boxes to food dishes. Let the cats figure it out, and don't force them to share if they don't want to. Some cats will always need separate litter boxes, scratching posts, bowls and toys -- and providing them is a small investment if it keeps the peace.

Most cats will eventually learn to live together closely. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it. And your cat will too, although he'll never admit you were right.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Animal Hospital Association has a pet first-aid page (www.healthypet.com/Library/petcare-36.html) that provides a list of emergency symptoms and what to do about them. The site is very clear in stressing that first aid should never take the place of veterinary care, and is meant to help until a pet can be placed in the hands of an expert. It's a good page to read in advance, to familiarize yourself with symptoms and emergency treatment. If your pet is seriously sick or injured, though, don't waste time cruising the Web for information: See your veterinarian right away.

THE SCOOP

A lot of people won't collar their cats, fearing that the material will become caught while the animal's roaming. One solution is breakaway collars, which offer an elastic panel meant to allow a cat to wriggle free if snagged. The problem with that, in the eyes of some, is that their wandering pets are constantly coming home without the collar, which becomes a bother and expense to replace.

If your cat isn't collared, consider this: Less than 2 percent of all lost cats are ever found, according to the National Council of Pet Population Study and Policy. For a roaming cat, the best insurance policy you can buy is an ID tag and a collar to hang it on. Also consider a microchip ID, which your veterinarian can insert under the skin with little discomfort to your pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Your article about getting a puppy "for the kids" was a real heartbreaker. I know it happens (quite often, I fear), as I saw it firsthand with some next-door neighbors we had a few years ago.

Could the problem have been avoided if the family had gotten an easygoing adult dog rather than a puppy? If so, that would be excellent advice for other people (and dogs) in similar situations. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: Yes, you're absolutely right: A well-chosen adult dog can often fit into families that don't really have the expertise or time to raise a puppy right. (If they indeed have the time to care for a dog at all, that is, and that's a mighty big "if.")

Problem is, a lot of parents won't even consider an adult dog, remaining stuck on the image of a puppy for the kids. And that's too bad, because a lot of adult dogs will die waiting for homes that never come, and many of these animals are exactly what these families need -- house-trained, relaxed and well past the chewing and general mayhem stage puppies go through.

Because some adult dogs come with behavioral problems that are too difficult for the average pet lover to fix, I recommend working with shelters or rescue groups when choosing an adult dog. The best of these organizations put their dogs through temperament testing -- and even some training -- before allowing the animals to go up for adoption. And then, they work to match a family's lifestyle with the dog who'll be right for them.

Q: Thank you for your wonderful article about adopting greyhounds. I have adopted retired greys for years, and have my fifth one now. All have been great companions.

One greyhound I had when I lived in Pensacola, Fla., was found in the woods by some hunters. She had been shot (I guess she must have lost a race), but was still alive. She was the best dog, and I was privileged to have her nine years before she died.

Well, enough of my reminiscing -- just wanted to say "thank you" for promoting adoption of my beloved greys. Next time, you might mention that greyhounds make wonderful "therapy pets" for taking to nursing homes, schools for children with special needs, etc., as they generally have such calm personalities. -- J.A., via e-mail

A: Too many racing greyhounds end up the way yours almost did -- with a bullet to the back of the head as a reward for trying their best and falling short. Thank heavens for rescue groups and people willing to adopt these mostly gentle and easygoing dogs.

Greyhound adoption groups are active even in states where racing isn't legal. That's because the organizations are loosely joined by a network of volunteers willing to move the animals from racetracks to areas with large populations of potential adopters.

One way to find a local or regional adoption group is to visit the Web site of the Greyhound Adoption Project (www.adopt-a-greyhound.org), which offers listings of dozens of such organizations. Greyhound Pets of America (www.greyhoundpets.org) also offers a toll-free referral number, (800) 366-1472. You'll also find lots of good information on what these animals are like on the Web pages, to make sure this breed is right for you.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

There's a prescription allergy medication on the market now that makes me smile every time I see it advertised. That's because the manufacturer makes a big deal out of promising relief from not just from allergies to pollen or dust, but also to pets.

That a drug company would consider it important to make this point suggests that the medical establishment is finally getting around to accepting the relationship many of us have with our pets -- even those of us who are allergic to them.

We don't care if we wheeze. We don't care if we sneeze. We're not dumping our pets.

This used to be a difficult point to make with some health-care professionals.

Once I was rudely dismissed by an allergist who insisted that eliminating pets from my life was a condition of his treating me. He told me if I wasn't going to follow his advice completely, he saw no reason why he should waste his time seeing me.

That was fine with me: I didn't want to see him, either. The pets stayed; the allergist went.

These days, my allergies and asthma are under good control, thanks to the advice of doctors who are more understanding and to some wonderful medications that have come on the market in recent years. I also have to give credit to my own dedication in following a few rules to reduce the impact of my pets on my allergies. Here are the basics I've followed for years now, with good results.

-- Limit exposure to other allergens. Avoid cleaning solutions, cigarette smoke and strong perfumes, and consider using a mask when doing yard work and housework, especially at the height of the pollen season.

-- Let someone else do the dusting and vacuuming, if at all possible, and if not, invest in a vacuum that filters the air it releases. I've had wonderful results with my Dyson vacuum, from a company that has a model actually designed for pet hair (it's called the "Animal"). The Dyson does an amazing job of picking up pet hair (and everything else), and not venting the allergens back out when I'm vacuuming.

-- Keep pets well-groomed. The dirt and pollen that pets pick up in their coats can be almost as bad as the hair and dander they generate themselves. It's essential for pets to be bathed frequently, and be kept combed and brushed. Ideally, a non-allergic member of the household should assume this responsibility. Even cats should be bathed, by the way: A weekly rinse in plain water has been shown to help people who are allergic to these pets better tolerate them.

-- Establish an "allergy-free zone" in the bedroom. Ideally, pets should never be allowed in the bedroom, so as to assure allergy-sufferers a good night's sleep. To be honest, I'm less than perfect in this category. During times when my other allergies are bothering me -– spring, primarily -– I kick out the pets. Other times, one, two or all of them are allowed on the bed.

I do, however, follow other bedroom guidelines closely, working to reduce allergy triggers by keeping the bedroom sparsely decorated and frequently cleaned. I also wash bedding constantly to combat dust mites, and my pillows are made of non-allergenic material, no feathers. During the height of allergy season, I run an air cleaner at all times.

-- Work with your doctor. Rather than argue over my pets, I avoided doctors for years after that run-in with the pets-must-go allergist. After I almost died from an asthma attack –- set up by a chest cold and triggered by a pet –- I got serious about getting help. These days, I work with health-care professionals who are willing to work with me, prescribing medications that allow my allergies and my pets to co-exist.

Like most allergy-sufferers, I find even the most beautiful spring to be a season of misery at times. But since I started following the good advice that's out there, I've been able to muddle through even the worst days without ever contemplating giving up any of the pets I hold so dear. Not that I ever would, of course.

PETS ON THE WEB

By no stretch of the imagination are racehorses pets, but I know I am not alone among animal lovers in admiring their grace, beauty and heart -- especially at this time of year, leading up to the Kentucky Derby. The Thoroughbred Champions Web site (www.thoroughbredchampions.com) celebrates several decades of great racehorses, from War Admiral and Whirlaway to more the more recent racetrack winners of Secretariat, Seattle Slew and Lady Secret. The biographies of the horses are wonderful, and for serious students of racing history, there are lots of pedigree and race stats to ponder.

THE SCOOP

Over the years I've collected plenty of grooming tools for my pets, but in the spring there's no doubt which one gets the biggest workout: the shedding blade. A simple loop of stainless steel attached to a handle, the blade has teeth that are ideal for grabbing the dead, loose hair that's so plentiful when winter coats start to be shed. A daily whisking of a pet with this blade will catch a lot of the fur that would otherwise end up in your house or on your clothes. A few minutes of daily effort makes your pet's coat look clean and shiny. Even better: Many cats and dogs love the sensation of being groomed with this tool. The cost: Less than $10 at most pet-supply stores, catalogs and Web sites.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I will be moving soon and have two cats who need to move with me. I am considering moving them first and securing them in a room in the new house. I want them to feel safe and comfortable in their new home, not traumatized. Is this the best plan? -– K.P., via e-mail

A: You're on the right track in providing your cats with a secure space for a transitional period. Set up a small bedroom in the new house with litter boxes, food and water dishes, scratching posts or cat trees, some toys and sleeping areas. Then decree that the room be off-limits to further activity as you continue with the rest of your moving chores.

Bring over your cats in carriers, set the carriers down and -– with the bedroom door securely closed -– open the carrier doors. Don't drag the cats out, but instead let them choose when to leave their carriers. Don't put any demands on the cats: If they want to spend an hour or two in the carrier or the first few days under the bed, let them.

Work around this closed room as you're moving into the rest of your house. Visit your cats in the room during quiet times, and if they're interested, pet them and play with them. But mostly you should vow to leave them alone in the closed room so they can adjust in their own time and on their own terms.

A week or two after you've moved in (when your cats seem more relaxed), open the bedroom door and let them have access to the rest of the house. Again, don't force them to do anything. They'll explore when they're ready, and not before.

Cats feel most secure in familiar surroundings, and in providing them with a transitional "safe room," you'll be helping them to feel comfortable in your new home in the least amount of time and with the least amount of disruption.

Q: My son gets annoyed when my small dog is around when he visits. He is coming up for a few days, and I would like it to be a good visit. Would it be OK if I were to keep my dog in his cage, which he never uses anymore, until my son says it's OK to let him out? -– M.G., via e-mail

A: I'm going to resist asking a question like, "What on earth is your son's problem with having your dog do as you want in your own home?" (Assuming your dog is neither vicious nor ill-mannered, of course.) But no, I won't ask that, nor will I add that in my home, if you don't like my furred, finned and feathered family, you are welcome not to visit.

Having resisted those less-than-polite urges, I will, in the interests of family peace, assure you that it won't hurt your dog to chill out in a crate or carrier for a couple of days until your company has come and gone. Another alternative: Do you have a friend who wouldn't mind taking your dog for the duration of your son's visit?

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600