There's a prescription allergy medication on the market now that makes me smile every time I see it advertised. That's because the manufacturer makes a big deal out of promising relief from not just from allergies to pollen or dust, but also to pets.

That a drug company would consider it important to make this point suggests that the medical establishment is finally getting around to accepting the relationship many of us have with our pets -- even those of us who are allergic to them.

We don't care if we wheeze. We don't care if we sneeze. We're not dumping our pets.

This used to be a difficult point to make with some health-care professionals.

Once I was rudely dismissed by an allergist who insisted that eliminating pets from my life was a condition of his treating me. He told me if I wasn't going to follow his advice completely, he saw no reason why he should waste his time seeing me.

That was fine with me: I didn't want to see him, either. The pets stayed; the allergist went.

These days, my allergies and asthma are under good control, thanks to the advice of doctors who are more understanding and to some wonderful medications that have come on the market in recent years. I also have to give credit to my own dedication in following a few rules to reduce the impact of my pets on my allergies. Here are the basics I've followed for years now, with good results.

-- Limit exposure to other allergens. Avoid cleaning solutions, cigarette smoke and strong perfumes, and consider using a mask when doing yard work and housework, especially at the height of the pollen season.

-- Let someone else do the dusting and vacuuming, if at all possible, and if not, invest in a vacuum that filters the air it releases. I've had wonderful results with my Dyson vacuum, from a company that has a model actually designed for pet hair (it's called the "Animal"). The Dyson does an amazing job of picking up pet hair (and everything else), and not venting the allergens back out when I'm vacuuming.

-- Keep pets well-groomed. The dirt and pollen that pets pick up in their coats can be almost as bad as the hair and dander they generate themselves. It's essential for pets to be bathed frequently, and be kept combed and brushed. Ideally, a non-allergic member of the household should assume this responsibility. Even cats should be bathed, by the way: A weekly rinse in plain water has been shown to help people who are allergic to these pets better tolerate them.

-- Establish an "allergy-free zone" in the bedroom. Ideally, pets should never be allowed in the bedroom, so as to assure allergy-sufferers a good night's sleep. To be honest, I'm less than perfect in this category. During times when my other allergies are bothering me -– spring, primarily -– I kick out the pets. Other times, one, two or all of them are allowed on the bed.

I do, however, follow other bedroom guidelines closely, working to reduce allergy triggers by keeping the bedroom sparsely decorated and frequently cleaned. I also wash bedding constantly to combat dust mites, and my pillows are made of non-allergenic material, no feathers. During the height of allergy season, I run an air cleaner at all times.

-- Work with your doctor. Rather than argue over my pets, I avoided doctors for years after that run-in with the pets-must-go allergist. After I almost died from an asthma attack –- set up by a chest cold and triggered by a pet –- I got serious about getting help. These days, I work with health-care professionals who are willing to work with me, prescribing medications that allow my allergies and my pets to co-exist.

Like most allergy-sufferers, I find even the most beautiful spring to be a season of misery at times. But since I started following the good advice that's out there, I've been able to muddle through even the worst days without ever contemplating giving up any of the pets I hold so dear. Not that I ever would, of course.

PETS ON THE WEB

By no stretch of the imagination are racehorses pets, but I know I am not alone among animal lovers in admiring their grace, beauty and heart -- especially at this time of year, leading up to the Kentucky Derby. The Thoroughbred Champions Web site (www.thoroughbredchampions.com) celebrates several decades of great racehorses, from War Admiral and Whirlaway to more the more recent racetrack winners of Secretariat, Seattle Slew and Lady Secret. The biographies of the horses are wonderful, and for serious students of racing history, there are lots of pedigree and race stats to ponder.

THE SCOOP

Over the years I've collected plenty of grooming tools for my pets, but in the spring there's no doubt which one gets the biggest workout: the shedding blade. A simple loop of stainless steel attached to a handle, the blade has teeth that are ideal for grabbing the dead, loose hair that's so plentiful when winter coats start to be shed. A daily whisking of a pet with this blade will catch a lot of the fur that would otherwise end up in your house or on your clothes. A few minutes of daily effort makes your pet's coat look clean and shiny. Even better: Many cats and dogs love the sensation of being groomed with this tool. The cost: Less than $10 at most pet-supply stores, catalogs and Web sites.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I will be moving soon and have two cats who need to move with me. I am considering moving them first and securing them in a room in the new house. I want them to feel safe and comfortable in their new home, not traumatized. Is this the best plan? -– K.P., via e-mail

A: You're on the right track in providing your cats with a secure space for a transitional period. Set up a small bedroom in the new house with litter boxes, food and water dishes, scratching posts or cat trees, some toys and sleeping areas. Then decree that the room be off-limits to further activity as you continue with the rest of your moving chores.

Bring over your cats in carriers, set the carriers down and -– with the bedroom door securely closed -– open the carrier doors. Don't drag the cats out, but instead let them choose when to leave their carriers. Don't put any demands on the cats: If they want to spend an hour or two in the carrier or the first few days under the bed, let them.

Work around this closed room as you're moving into the rest of your house. Visit your cats in the room during quiet times, and if they're interested, pet them and play with them. But mostly you should vow to leave them alone in the closed room so they can adjust in their own time and on their own terms.

A week or two after you've moved in (when your cats seem more relaxed), open the bedroom door and let them have access to the rest of the house. Again, don't force them to do anything. They'll explore when they're ready, and not before.

Cats feel most secure in familiar surroundings, and in providing them with a transitional "safe room," you'll be helping them to feel comfortable in your new home in the least amount of time and with the least amount of disruption.

Q: My son gets annoyed when my small dog is around when he visits. He is coming up for a few days, and I would like it to be a good visit. Would it be OK if I were to keep my dog in his cage, which he never uses anymore, until my son says it's OK to let him out? -– M.G., via e-mail

A: I'm going to resist asking a question like, "What on earth is your son's problem with having your dog do as you want in your own home?" (Assuming your dog is neither vicious nor ill-mannered, of course.) But no, I won't ask that, nor will I add that in my home, if you don't like my furred, finned and feathered family, you are welcome not to visit.

Having resisted those less-than-polite urges, I will, in the interests of family peace, assure you that it won't hurt your dog to chill out in a crate or carrier for a couple of days until your company has come and gone. Another alternative: Do you have a friend who wouldn't mind taking your dog for the duration of your son's visit?

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Sometimes you can see these things coming a mile away.

Last year a woman with whom I share a mutual friend called for advice on getting a puppy "for the kids." Involved parents, nice kids -- these are the sort of folks whose family picture seemingly wouldn't be complete without a dog. But after talking with her for a while, I pointed out that her concept of how much time it takes to raise a puppy was not based in reality. With work, school and all the sports and other activities in which the children were involved, the family was never home, and I warned her that if she went forward, her puppy plan would likely not turn out well.

I suggested that they put off getting a dog until their lives were more suited for it, if ever. But both parents had grown up with dogs and had remembered how wonderful those childhood pets were. Their children deserved the same wonderful memories, and they were resolved to provide them.

So the family went to the shelter, where the kids happily picked out a darling Lab-mix puppy.

When the woman called for advice on house-training, I suggested using a crate to house-train the puppy. They abandoned that effort as unkind and impractical when the puppy cried to be let out and the kids gave in. Later, when the long-debunked "put the puppy's nose in it and spank" method didn't produce reliable results, the puppy went outside for good.

Lonely and bored, the puppy started destroying the landscaping, digging holes and chewing shrubs. When the woman called again, I suggested more interaction, more exercise and some training. The father tried to walk the dog a few times, but she pulled so hard on the leash it wasn't fun for either of them, so he gave it up. In their frustration over seeing their beautiful yard ruined, the parents took to dragging her to the damaged areas and spanking her, even though she had no idea why they were angry.

Sadly, the kids who had begged for a puppy were becoming afraid of the half-grown dog she'd become. Not because she was vicious, but because she was so glad to see anyone she'd jump up and claw -- and sometimes knock down -- those who came into the back yard. When the woman called again, I made more suggestions, but I could hear in her voice that they weren't going to take any of them. It was just too much work, too much time.

When the parents first talked about finding a "new home" a few months after the puppy arrived, the children begged to keep her. Tears flowed, and the plan was shelved -- for a while. But clearly, the situation could not go on as it had.

I guess the woman was too embarrassed to call when they put in a run for the dog, a small chain-link enclosure in a shady corner of the property that kept the adolescent pup away from the landscaping and the family. About the only time anyone interacted with the dog now was when one of the kids was nagged to refill her food and water dishes, or to pick up after her.

Out in her corner of the back yard, the dog had started to become a problem barker. Frustrated, they would open the window and scream for her to shut up, and she would, for a while. But when they were gone, which was most of the time, she never stopped barking, and the neighbors were complaining.

When the received a citation for the barking, they decided the dog had to go. That weekend, they took her back to the shelter. The parents reassured the children that she would find a home, and I know they wanted to believe it themselves. The woman didn't call me to find out what happens to many unruly and unwanted dogs, because I know she didn't really want to know.

Because they are good people, they didn't blame the dog for what had happened, although a lot of people do, in similar circumstances. But they didn't much blame themselves, either. After all, getting a puppy was done with the best of intentions, in the interests of providing something good for their children.

Problem was, the interests of the dog were never really considered.

PETS ON THE WEB

Spring is especially sweet for those who share their lives with turtles and tortoises -- it's the time when these gentle pets come out of their cold-weather sleep. If you're just waking up to the appeal of turtles and tortoises, a couple of Web sites will give you what you need to know to care for them properly.

Probably the most comprehensive site of its kind is the California Turtle & Tortoise Club's (www.tortoise.org). This well-organized site offers lots of care information, photographs and a calendar of events from around the world. Good links, libraries of pictures and sound files round out this very nice site. On the other side of the country, the New York Turtle and Tortoise Society also has a good Web site (http://nytts.org/). Their emphasis is not only on captive pets, but also the protection and conservation of turtles and tortoises in their native habitats.

THE SCOOP

Thinking of adding another bird to your flock? For the safety of the pet birds you already have, skip any introductions until your new bird has been examined by a veterinarian who's experienced in avian medicine. Even a seemingly healthy bird needs to be quarantined for about six weeks before meeting any other feathered family members. As heartbreaking as it would be to lose your new pet to an infectious disease you didn't know he was carrying, imagine how you would feel if you lost any or all of the birds you already have because you introduced them to a sick bird. You just can't be too careful.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I met some greyhounds at an adoption event at a local pet supermarket. I'd never really seen them up close, unless you count that time in the '70s when my husband and I went to a dog track in Florida.

I was taken with their calmness and was told they are easygoing pets, although large. Is this true? I'm thinking of contacting the group again and adopting one of their dogs. Our last dog died of old age last year, and we miss having a pet. –- B.B. via e-mail

A: Some of the most incredible dogs I have met in recent years have been retired racers. The eyes on these guys are so deep you could drown in them, and I've never seen animals who seem to be more grateful for a chance to be loved.

Greyhounds are generally easygoing, relative to many breeds and mixes of dogs. An adult greyhound will happily sleep most of the day -- they don't call them "the 45 mph couch potato" for nothing! A good daily walk, on leash for safety, will be more than enough to keep your dog fit and happy.

Q: How old must a kitten be before being spayed? We went to look at kittens at the shelter, and they insist the babies be fixed before adoption, which seems a little young to us. I thought these procedures needed to wait until the animals are 6 months old? -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Puppies and kittens can be safely neutered as young as 8 weeks, and studies have consistently shown no long-term problems with health or behavior for surgeries that are done earlier than the 4- to 6-month ideal previously considered standard procedure.

Your shelter is to be commended for taking a proactive stand on reducing the number of unwanted animals. Such policies show that the organization is actively fighting pet overpopulation by trying to stop the kittens-out/kittens-in cycle that happens when the first babies of spring become the last parents of fall.

I wouldn't hesitate to adopt from your shelter, but if you end up with a kitten from another source, follow your veterinarian's advice on when to alter your pet. Although early spay-neuter is safe, not all veterinarians are comfortable with performing the operation that early.

If your veterinarian prefers that you wait until your kitten is older, be sure your pet is kept inside to keep her from getting pregnant. A lot of "oops" litters result when well-meaning people don't keep an eye on their pets and don't get around to making that appointment until it's too late.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

for Gina Spadafori at the end of the column.)

Back in the late '70s, when I first started teaching obedience classes and competing with my own dogs in obedience trials, the choke-chain collar was standard training equipment. I had dozens of them -- hanging from the end of every leash, in the pockets of my jackets, dangling from hooks in the garage.

How things have changed! I realized the other day that none of the four dogs who share my life now ever wear a choke-chain collar. These days, I know ways that are easier on me and my dogs when it comes to teaching leash manners.

For years I've argued that the choke-chain collar is only for walking and training your dog, and that you put your dog at grave risk if you leave a chain collar on an unleashed dog. That's because the moving ring of the chain can get snagged. When a dog feels the chain tighten, his natural instinct is to pull away, which causes the collar to tighten even more.

The end result is too easy to imagine. Over the years I've heard from readers whose dogs have choked to death when their collar rings became caught on the tooth of another dog in play, on a piece of fencing in the yard or even a heater grate in the house. In other cases, dogs were injured and traumatized, and the owners who saved their lives by getting them free of the collar's deadly grip were often bitten by their terrified dogs.

Knowing what I know, I want to scream when I see people whose dogs have choke-chain collars for everyday wear, as evidenced by tags hanging from the stationary ring. I cannot say this strongly enough: If your dog is wearing a choke-chain collar as his everyday collar, replace it with a buckle or snap-together collar today.

OK, so that's what I've always said: Choke-chain collars are for training and walking only. But these days I go one step more: When you take that chain collar off, throw it away.

The choke-chain collar has always been a problem in dog-training because it's a piece of equipment that's nearly impossible for the average dog owner to use properly. And when the collar isn't used properly, it's ineffective at best, cruel at worst.

There are only two ways to put on a choke-chain collar: with the moving end over the dog's neck (correct), or under the dog's neck (incorrect). By the simplest law of averages you'd think folks would get them on right half the time, but it never seems to work that way.

When the moving part of the chain comes from under the dog's neck, the chain doesn't release easily when the leash is slackened. And that means the collar is constantly tight, choking the dog.

Even if the collar's put on right, people still manage to use it wrong. A choke-chain collar is meant to be loose at all times except for the occasional split-second tightening to correct a dog's behavior. But people don't seem to know that, and so I am always seeing gasping dogs in tight choke chains dragging their owners behind them.

So throw away those choke chains and get the help of a good trainer to choose the right piece of equipment and to learn how to use it. For some dogs, a buckle or snap-together collar will be all you need. For others, a head halter such as the Gentle Leader will work best. For a few dogs, the best choice may be a pinch-collar, which looks horrific but can't tighten down the way a choke-chain can.

Before too long, you'll have a dog who's easy to walk and who'll be able to breathe while he does it. Won't that be an improvement?

PETS ON THE WEB

Boxers run in my family. As a young man, my late grandfather fought professionally under the name of Pete Daley (so his mother wouldn't know what he was up to), and for as long as I've been alive, there have been canine boxers in my family as well. They're great dogs! If you love boxers, too, you ought to visit Boxerworld (www.boxerworld.com ). There's lots of great information on the breed, and ways to get even more advice by asking questions of longtime boxer fanciers. Best of all, there are thousands of images of boxers, contributed by their loving owners. There's a big push for boxer rescue on the site for those boxers who don't have loving owners -- yet!

THE SCOOP

While it might be hard to believe if you live in a place where there's still snow on the ground, spring has officially arrived. Days that are warm -- but not yet hot -- lull many dog owners into thinking it's OK to leave their pets in the car while running errands. Be careful! Even a sunny day in the 70s or low 80s can turn a car into a death trap for your dog. Call it the "greenhouse effect" if it makes it easier to understand why this happens. All those windows on your car let heat come in and build to dangerous levels quickly. And no, a cracked window isn't going to save your dog from one of the most miserable deaths imaginable.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a problem that my veterinarian can't answer, and I am desperate for some help. I have a spayed female boxer/Akita mix and her urine is burning my lawn. I tried a product I bought from a pet catalog that is for this specific problem, but it hasn't worked in the year and a half I have used it. It's expensive, too.

I am sure there must be some herb or ingredient I can add to her food or water to prevent this problem. Do you have any suggestions so I can turn my yard from a mud pit back into grass? -- J.L., via e-mail

A: Over the years I've heard of all kinds of supplements "guaranteed" to fix this problem, from tomato juice to garlic to salt to vitamin C, along with all kinds of commercial products. I haven't seen good evidence that any of them work. Furthermore, some additions to your dog's food or water can increase the risk of illness for your pet, and that's never worth a greener lawn, in my opinion.

Probably the best solution is to set aside a part of your yard for your dog's potty needs, and train or restrict her to use this area exclusively. Replace the lawn in this area with decomposed granite, pea gravel or other kill-proof cover that will present a nice appearance and offer easy cleanup.

If it's not possible to split off part of the yard for your dog's potty area, it will help if (after your dog squats on your lawn) you take the hose and flush the area with lots of water to dilute the urine to non-damaging levels. You need to do this fairly soon after your dog urinates, and you cannot rely on every-other-day water from the sprinklers to help much.

Years ago, a dog-loving friend of mine with an exceptionally lovely yard came up with a solution that takes some effort, but worked well for her. She kept a fresh roll of sod growing in an out-of-the-way corner of her yard, and when a spot on the lawn turned started to turn yellow, she'd cut it out and replaced it with fresh sod. The maintenance was constant, but so was the green of her yard.

Q: We've sort of adopted a cat who started hanging around with our cats on the back porch where we feed them. The edges of the new cat's ears have a slight crust on them, and the ear looks dirty inside. What can I give her for this? -- S.P., via e-mail

A: Make an appointment with your veterinarian. Your cat likely has ear mites, nasty little pests that feed off the lining of the ear. Since the mites are highly contagious, there's a good chance other cats in your home are likewise infested.

Your veterinarian can give you medication to eradicate the mites. Be warned, though, that you must continue the medication as recommended even after it seems that the problem is under control. You may also need to take your pet in for a recheck. Ear mites can be very hard to get rid of, and if you stop medicating too soon, they'll stage a comeback.

While the cat is at the veterinarian's, don't neglect other preventive-care measures, such as neutering, testing and vaccinations as recommended. "Sort of" adoptions don't help much: Take full responsibility for your new pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600