My puppy Chase has just turned a year old and is no longer, I suppose, a puppy. He's full grown, and in the last couple of months he has shown a few signs that all those things I've worked so hard to teach him might, after all, take hold.

Well, maybe.

He forgets to do as he's supposed to when he's happy, or when he's excited, conditions that seem to cover about 90 percent of the time when he's not asleep. And sometimes it's clear he doesn't do as he's asked to because he has something he'd rather do instead. So I work with him, and then I work with him some more. And sometimes I wonder: What on earth possessed me to bring a puppy into my life?

When someone thinks about getting a dog, it's usually a puppy that's wanted, often for reasons that are not really valid. Many people believe that a dog they raise themselves will bond with them more than one adopted as an adult. Or they think that if they raise a puppy, they'll have a dog who's better behaved because they've trained the animal themselves.

My own experience over years of talking to people about their dogs and meeting thousands of pets has led me to believe that the chances of getting a wonderful dog are just as good if you start with an adult dog as with a puppy. And so, I've usually recommended that adopting an adult dog (with the help of a knowledgeable shelter, rescue group or breeder) is the better way to go for most people, because raising a puppy properly takes so much time.

For the longest time, I followed my own advice. I hadn't raised a puppy in 16 years before Chase came, choosing instead to adopt animals who needed a second chance. Like the big retriever Benjamin, who spent his early days as the resident blood donor at a veterinary hospital. (When Ben needs to give a blood sample for his own good these days, he is still ever-so-helpful: When he sees the needle coming, he raises his head to expose the vein.) Or Heather, who was not quite good enough to be a competitive field-trial dog. And more recently Drew, the beautiful and gentlemanly Sheltie who'd had difficulty finding a home because he was "too old" -- at 5!

All these dogs had been schooled in basic manners -- or in the case of the retriever Heather, received a great deal of high-level training. All were house-trained. All slipped more or less effortlessly into my household routines. And all adore me without reserve. (The feeling is, of course, quite mutual.)

But I know why people will keep on getting puppies: They're adorable.

Chase was no exception. From the moment he came into my home at 8 weeks of age, I couldn't keep my hands off him, I wanted to cuddle his adorable body so much.

And sometimes, I couldn't keep from wanting to put those hands around his adorable furry neck.

Over the months, I think Chase has taught me as much as I've taught him, reinforcing my belief that the more I learn about animals the more I realize I need to learn. And that's a pretty big accomplishment for a little dog who even now doesn't top the 20-pound mark.

Happy Birthday, Chase. Your first year was wonderful, but Lord, I'm glad it's over.

THE SCOOP

Cats can reproduce before they're hardly old enough to grow out of their adorably kittenish behavior. Warmer weather always brings more kittens than there are homes for, with a single cat being able to produce multiple litters.

The old story of too many cats, not enough homes can be prevented with greater use of a simple surgical fix. Don't wait until your kittens are having kittens of their own: Neutering is now routine for kittens (and puppies) as young as 8 weeks.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Roadside America Web site offers a collection of low-key tourist attractions that are often delightfully tacky, located off the beaten path in small towns and side streets from coast to coast. The site has a special collection (www.roadsideamerica.com/pet) of attractions that celebrate the memory of famous animals, from the horses of Civil War heroes and Hollywood stars to the mascots of colleges and towns. I can vouch for at least one of these memorials: I have touched the glass case that houses the stuffed remains of Old Joe, a massive alligator killed by a poacher in the '60s, in what is now Wakulla Springs State Park, near Tallahassee, Fla.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I had to write about the answer you gave to a question about electronic fences. I have two golden retrievers and a cat, and I live in a neighborhood that does not allow fences. Other members of my family had used electronic fences with great success, so I tried one.

It has been great. I can let my animals outside without fear of them being hit by a car. My two dogs can romp and chase each other, and my cat stays in the yard, too.

I do understand the comments you made about other dogs coming in the yard, and that can be an issue. As a responsible pet owner, however, I pay attention to what's going on when my dogs are outside.

Obviously there are some dogs for whom this type of fence doesn't work. And this type of fencing won't work for those people who are irresponsible and don't take the time to train and monitor their dogs properly. But I think this fence is a reasonable choice for informed pet owners, and I feel you did a disservice by dismissing it. Will you please set the record straight? -- A.K., via e-mail

A: As you might imagine, I received a fair amount of mail not only from people who sell electronic fencing systems, but also from pet owners who are satisfied with these devices.

I understand why these systems are popular among people for whom traditional fencing either isn't allowed or isn't an option. But I also believe it's important to recognize the risks inherent with an electronic containment system. These risks have nothing to do with the correct installation or management of a perfectly functioning system.

Key among them: the increased chance of harm to your pets from people or other animals, as well as the increased chance that your pet will cause harm.

Your pets can be stolen. Your pets can be teased, attacked or killed, by people or other animals. Your pets can bite or knock down someone who comes onto your property, leaving you open to insurance claims and lawsuits. Traditional fencing doesn't rule out these possibilities, of course, but it does reduce their likelihood.

This controversy reminds me of the inside vs. outside cats issue. Every time I write that cats in general are healthier and live longer -- not to mention are less of a nuisance to neighbors -- when kept indoors, I get a batch of mail arguing that it's unfair to prevent cats from roaming freely.

What can I say? I recommend that dogs have securely fenced yards and cats do not roam. That's my best suggestion based on my experience and research over the years, but I recognize that others will occasionally disagree and that my "ideal" recommendation will not be right in every situation.

Q: Can I trim my bird's beak, or do I need to take him to a veterinarian? -- S.V., via e-mail

A: Beak trims are not part of a pet bird's maintenance -- the way wing and nail clips are. On the contrary, an overgrown beak may be the symptom of a serious health problem that needs to be addressed by a veterinarian experienced in avian care.

Depending on the species, a bird's beak will grow from 1 to 3 inches a year. Use will keep the beak of a healthy, normal bird at the right length. Liver disease and malnutrition are among the things that can cause a beak to grow too long, as can the misalignment of the upper and lower jaws.

Many problems that cause overgrowth can be successfully addressed if brought promptly to the attention of an avian veterinarian, so don't delay in making that appointment.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

These days, it seems as if many of us have a roll of duct tape floating around as part of some vague disaster plan. If that's true of you, here's something specific to do with it: Include it in a preparedness kit for your pets.

That's not all you need to do, but the rest of it isn't much harder. And it's important, because if you don't look out for your four-legged family members, who will?

Start your preparations with something you've probably already taken care of: Make sure your pets have ID.

Most animals will survive a disaster, but many never see their families again because there's no way to determine which pet belongs to which family if the animals go missing, a common occurrence even under normal circumstances. That's why dogs and cats should always wear a collar and identification tags.

Once your pet has up-to-date ID, it's time to collect some equipment to help you cope in case of an emergency. A big storage bin with a lid and handles is an ideal place to keep everything you need together and at hand.

Keep several days' worth of drinking water and pet food as well as any necessary medicines, rotating the stock regularly. For canned goods, don't forget to pack a can opener and a spoon. Lay in a supply of empty plastic bags, along with paper towels, both for cleaning up messes and for sealing them away until they can be safely tossed.

For cats, pack a bag of litter and some disposable litter trays.

Even normally docile pets can behave in uncharacteristic ways when stressed by an emergency, which makes restraints essential for the safety of pets and people alike. For dogs, as well as those cats who are used to them, leashes should always be at hand.

Shipping crates are probably the least-thought-of pieces of emergency equipment for pets, but are among the most important. Sturdy crates keep pets of all kinds safe while increasing housing options. Crated pets may be allowed in hotel rooms that are normally off-limits to pets, or can be left in a pinch with veterinarians or shelters that are already full, since the animals come with rooms of their own.

Final item of restraint for dogs and cats: a soft muzzle, because frightened or injured pets are more likely to bite.

Don't forget to put first-aid supplies in your disaster kit, along with a book on how to treat pet injuries.

Now, about that duct tape.

It's a good idea to have some lost pet flyers prepared in advance and put in with your emergency supplies along with a large black marker and -- yes! -– duct tape for posting them. Preprint the fliers with the word "reward" in large type, with a picture and description of your pet below, and leave a blank space to add a phone number or other details.

And since the job's not over until the paperwork's done, you should also tuck a photocopy of your pet's current vaccination records into the disaster kit, along with a list of locations and phone numbers for animal shelters and veterinary hospitals or clinics (should your pet become lost, these are the places where he'll be most likely to be turned in). Veterinarians and shelters are also essential in the coordinating of post-disaster animal relief efforts.

Chances are you'll never have to pull out your disaster kit, but as we're hearing more often these days, it's always good to be prepared.

THE SCOOP

Spring is just around the corner, and that means wild birds will be building their nests. You can help them out by combing and brushing your dog or cat thoroughly, and then setting the fur you've collected on top of bushes or other places where the birds can find it. The fur makes good nesting material, especially if it's the wooly undercoat of breeds such as Samoyeds or collies, or the silky strands of Persians. And remember: Whatever fur you catch on a comb or brush won't end up on your clothes. There's just no downside to a good grooming, for your pet, your home or for the birds.

PETS ON THE WEB

I have it on the word of my friend Sally, whose dog Muffin, a Maltese, has a bigger wardrobe than many people, that the doggy tiaras offered on the Trixie & Peanut pet gifts Web site (www.trixieandpeanut.com/) are a "must have." Yes, I agree they're darn cute for some dogs, but I can't really see the alpha girl of my household, the retriever Heather, wearing one. She's just too much of a tomboy for that. Still, I found lots to like -- or at least to smile at -- on this well-designed site, which offers clever non-necessities for dogs and cats, as well as for the people who love them. One of my favorites: catnip-filled cat toys in the shape of popular dog breeds. Kitty-revenge can be sweet -- but, at $28 each, darn expensive!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm in the Navy, and I've had to board my cats for six months. I would like to know what's the best way to get to know my cats again, and how do I bring them into my home again? -- L.W., via e-mail

A: Your cats shouldn't be that hard to reintroduce, if you promise yourself to be patient from the get-go. It's better to start with them in a single small room outfitted with all they need -- food, water, scratching post, litter boxes, toys -- and let them become comfortable there before expanding the available territory.

Start small when it comes to interactions, too. Let your cats choose the amount of petting, even if it's far less than you were used to with them before. If they want to spend the first few days under the bed, let them. Hauling your cats out and forcing them to accept petting is always a big mistake.

When your cats want to be petted, go for the low-trigger areas, such as behind the ears and under the chin, as well as a gentle stroke down the back and up the tail. Watch for the "I think I've almost had enough" signs such as tail-flipping and always end the session on a positive note before the cat insists on leaving.

Gradually increase their territory and your interaction with them. I've no doubt that if you let your cats set the pace, it won't be long before your pets feel comfortable and things are pretty much as they were before.

Q: I love animals, but our beautiful neighborhood is rapidly going to the dogs -- literally. One dog barks incessantly, which sets the other dogs to barking back. Catnaps for us neighbors have become a thing of the past, and these dogs surely cannot be happy. Should I call the SPCA? Don't tell me to talk with their owners; they must know how much noise their dogs are making. Can anything else be done? -- J.H., via e-mail

A: Humane societies investigate animal cruelty, but they are not set up to deal with animal nuisances, unless neglect or cruelty is involved. Barking dogs are low on the priority list for municipal agencies as well, which realistically leaves you with two choices: Deal with the neighbor whose dog triggers the others, or live with the problem.

You might be surprised at how oblivious the neighbor with the problem dog is to the noise the animal makes. Over the years I have come to believe that many owners of barking dogs develop the ability to tune them out, and so may not be fully aware of the trouble their pets are causing. I'm not offering this as an excuse, believe me, because someone whose dog is a nonstop barker in the way you describe is likely not a caring, responsible pet lover. These dogs are bored and lonely, at the very least, and often neglected as well.

While it's better to talk one-on-one with the owners of the problem dog, I realize that's not always possible, especially if that person has proven to be dangerous or scary to deal with in the past. You might instead consider sending an anonymous letter that indicates how much unhappiness the animal is causing the neighbors, and include a flier with suggestions for improving the situation, through better care of the dog, integration of the animal into the family home and management of the situations that trigger the barking.

The Denver Dumb Friends League has an excellent fact sheet covering why dogs bark and how pet owners can to choose effective solutions. You can find it at www.ddfl.org/behavior/barkingdog.htm. Print it out and provide your neighbor with the information.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Digital photography has changed my life. Instead of wasting roll after roll of film -- or not bothering to take pictures at all because of the trouble and expense -- I now take hundreds of pictures, happy in the knowledge that if I get just one or two good ones out of every few dozen taken, I haven't wasted anything except my time.

With a few clicks of the mouse, the out-of-frame, out-of-focus or "just not right" images are jettisoned forever. A few clicks more, and those images with potential are fixed up and made suitable for framing -- a crop here, a red eye changed to brown, the elimination of items cluttering up the background.

The result: The best pictures of my pets I've ever taken.

Years ago a pet photographer told me the best suggestion he could offer when it comes to getting good pictures is to constantly be taking them. That's advice I'm finally following, but I've also had good luck paying attention to these other tried-and-true tips:

-- Head outdoors if you can. Taking pictures outside gives your pet a more natural, healthy look. If your pet is a solid, dark color, use your flash to bring out the detail in your pet's face. If you do end up with red eye, use photo-editing software (basic programs come free with many new computers) to fix the problem.

-- Get close. If you want a good picture, you need to go where your pet is. Shoot at just below your pet's eye level and zoom in as closely as you can for good detail.

-- Watch your backgrounds. Think neutral -- a plain wall, not a cluttered cabinet. Think contrast -- light for a dark pet, dark for a light one. If your cat loves to sleep on the busy fabric of your sofa, for example, consider throwing a solid-colored blanket down first. You might be able to edit the distraction out with photo-editing software, but it's easier to avoid it in the first place.

-- Get kids to help. I love pictures of kids and pets, and have always found that kids make the best photographer's assistants as well. Children can help by getting a pet's attention with a toy or treat, or by holding the pet for a picture of child and pet together. One of my favorite things to do is give the children in my life throwaway cameras and let them take their own pictures. I get the images put on a photo CD, use photo-editing software to make them look better, and then give the best as prints in inexpensive frames to the young photographers.

-- Be creative. If you want your pet to kiss your children, do as the pros do: Put a little butter on your children and let the pet kiss it off. This is a tip I got years ago when I interviewed a woman who trained animals for commercials. I've smiled every time I've seen a dog smooch a kid on TV since, knowing that more than affection was at play.

-- Take some "record-keeping" shots. You never know when a pet will get loose, and having good pictures can help with a swift recovery. Take a picture from the side and one from the front, as well as close-ups of any distinctive markings. Get prints made and put them in a place you'll remember, just in case you need to make up "lost pet" posters.

Final advice: Enjoy and share your pictures! You'll find several sites on the Web that welcome images of pets, or you can use a free Web site to post images on your own. And photo-developing companies offer more than prints of digital images these days: Think note cards, calendars or even posters.

I've put up a few of my own pets on my Web site, (www.spadafori.com -- click on "My Animals") and plan to keep adding as I take more great photos.

THE SCOOP

It's important to provide all pets with toys, but even more essential to keep a good selection of playthings available for those who spend large chunks of their lives in cages or other enclosures. The catalog and Web merchant Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com) offers an interesting twist on the topic of pet toys: supplies for making them yourself. Designed for birds (but also appropriate for rabbits, rats, ferrets and other such pets), the do-it-yourself toy parts include wood blocks, plastic chains, leather shapes and cotton rope, all in various sizes and colors. Making pet toys is a great afternoon project for children.

PETS ON THE WEB

When military families get moved, pets are too often left in the lurch. With local shelters inundated and few prospects for new homes in a community where everyone's in the same situation, these pets too often face euthanasia, while their families go through guilt and grief at an already stressful time. The Web site NetPets (www.netpets.org) is trying to help, organizing a network of foster homes to take care of military pets until the families can take them again. There's a form on the site for people in the military to fill out, and anyone wishing to foster a pet can e-mail for an application. What a great idea!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our cocker, Sam, has beautiful "feathers" on his legs and underbelly. He looks great when he comes from the groomer, but it doesn't take long before all that beautiful, long fur is matted, tangled and (in the summer) full of burrs. Any suggestions for keeping him neater? -- P.D., via e-mail

A: Show breeders have a tendency to overdo when it comes to the lovely features of any breed. That's why you see poodles look the way they do in the show ring, in a ridiculous parody of what was once a cut designed to help keep a working dog functional. In cockers, breeders have gone for more and more "furnishings" -- longer, more luxurious coats that look stunning in the show ring but are too often mess in real life.

While show people work to keep every inch of coat, for the purposes of everyday life it's usually better to keep things cut short. That's why pet poodles are kept in body-hugging "puppy clips" and terriers have their wiry coats clipped instead of having dead hairs pulled individually, as is normal for show. (Exhibitors call this "hand-stripping." It's tedious work but essential for winning.)

Ask your groomer to clip your dog's feathers to a functional length -- short enough to keep combed and brushed, long enough to maintain a degree of attractiveness.

As for burrs, here's a tip from hunting-dog trainers: Spray a little nonstick cooking spray (such as Pam) on the area. The lubricating effect will make it easier to slide the burr out of the fur.

Q: I lost my sweet old cat a couple months ago, after almost 18 years. She was an "only child" for most of her life. I tried to bring in a kitten once, but she would not stop attacking the interloper. In her later years, I tried to bring in another older cat, but she wouldn't come out from under the bed.

Since I work, I feel it would be better to have two cats, so they can keep each other company while I'm gone. This summer I'll be adopting a kitten. Should I adopt two at once, or stagger them? -- W.N., via e-mail

A: Your sense of the matter is correct: Companionship is a wonderful thing, especially for indoor cats who are left alone while their people are at work or school. While some cats clearly would prefer to be loners, many form what are clearly strong attachments to others of their kind.

It's a great idea to adopt two kittens at once, but here's another option to consider: Welcome a pair of already bonded adult cats into your home.

Almost every shelter or rescue group has cats who are better off staying together. Homes for these cats – many of whom have been together since birth -- are few and far between, which means these often loving companions end up being separated or not adopted at all.

Adorable kittens have a much easier time finding homes than adult cats do, and the situation is more difficult for cats who need to be placed together. Since you're looking for a pair of companionable cats, why not adopt two who already are comfortable with each other?

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600