These days, it seems as if many of us have a roll of duct tape floating around as part of some vague disaster plan. If that's true of you, here's something specific to do with it: Include it in a preparedness kit for your pets.

That's not all you need to do, but the rest of it isn't much harder. And it's important, because if you don't look out for your four-legged family members, who will?

Start your preparations with something you've probably already taken care of: Make sure your pets have ID.

Most animals will survive a disaster, but many never see their families again because there's no way to determine which pet belongs to which family if the animals go missing, a common occurrence even under normal circumstances. That's why dogs and cats should always wear a collar and identification tags.

Once your pet has up-to-date ID, it's time to collect some equipment to help you cope in case of an emergency. A big storage bin with a lid and handles is an ideal place to keep everything you need together and at hand.

Keep several days' worth of drinking water and pet food as well as any necessary medicines, rotating the stock regularly. For canned goods, don't forget to pack a can opener and a spoon. Lay in a supply of empty plastic bags, along with paper towels, both for cleaning up messes and for sealing them away until they can be safely tossed.

For cats, pack a bag of litter and some disposable litter trays.

Even normally docile pets can behave in uncharacteristic ways when stressed by an emergency, which makes restraints essential for the safety of pets and people alike. For dogs, as well as those cats who are used to them, leashes should always be at hand.

Shipping crates are probably the least-thought-of pieces of emergency equipment for pets, but are among the most important. Sturdy crates keep pets of all kinds safe while increasing housing options. Crated pets may be allowed in hotel rooms that are normally off-limits to pets, or can be left in a pinch with veterinarians or shelters that are already full, since the animals come with rooms of their own.

Final item of restraint for dogs and cats: a soft muzzle, because frightened or injured pets are more likely to bite.

Don't forget to put first-aid supplies in your disaster kit, along with a book on how to treat pet injuries.

Now, about that duct tape.

It's a good idea to have some lost pet flyers prepared in advance and put in with your emergency supplies along with a large black marker and -- yes! -– duct tape for posting them. Preprint the fliers with the word "reward" in large type, with a picture and description of your pet below, and leave a blank space to add a phone number or other details.

And since the job's not over until the paperwork's done, you should also tuck a photocopy of your pet's current vaccination records into the disaster kit, along with a list of locations and phone numbers for animal shelters and veterinary hospitals or clinics (should your pet become lost, these are the places where he'll be most likely to be turned in). Veterinarians and shelters are also essential in the coordinating of post-disaster animal relief efforts.

Chances are you'll never have to pull out your disaster kit, but as we're hearing more often these days, it's always good to be prepared.

THE SCOOP

Spring is just around the corner, and that means wild birds will be building their nests. You can help them out by combing and brushing your dog or cat thoroughly, and then setting the fur you've collected on top of bushes or other places where the birds can find it. The fur makes good nesting material, especially if it's the wooly undercoat of breeds such as Samoyeds or collies, or the silky strands of Persians. And remember: Whatever fur you catch on a comb or brush won't end up on your clothes. There's just no downside to a good grooming, for your pet, your home or for the birds.

PETS ON THE WEB

I have it on the word of my friend Sally, whose dog Muffin, a Maltese, has a bigger wardrobe than many people, that the doggy tiaras offered on the Trixie & Peanut pet gifts Web site (www.trixieandpeanut.com/) are a "must have." Yes, I agree they're darn cute for some dogs, but I can't really see the alpha girl of my household, the retriever Heather, wearing one. She's just too much of a tomboy for that. Still, I found lots to like -- or at least to smile at -- on this well-designed site, which offers clever non-necessities for dogs and cats, as well as for the people who love them. One of my favorites: catnip-filled cat toys in the shape of popular dog breeds. Kitty-revenge can be sweet -- but, at $28 each, darn expensive!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm in the Navy, and I've had to board my cats for six months. I would like to know what's the best way to get to know my cats again, and how do I bring them into my home again? -- L.W., via e-mail

A: Your cats shouldn't be that hard to reintroduce, if you promise yourself to be patient from the get-go. It's better to start with them in a single small room outfitted with all they need -- food, water, scratching post, litter boxes, toys -- and let them become comfortable there before expanding the available territory.

Start small when it comes to interactions, too. Let your cats choose the amount of petting, even if it's far less than you were used to with them before. If they want to spend the first few days under the bed, let them. Hauling your cats out and forcing them to accept petting is always a big mistake.

When your cats want to be petted, go for the low-trigger areas, such as behind the ears and under the chin, as well as a gentle stroke down the back and up the tail. Watch for the "I think I've almost had enough" signs such as tail-flipping and always end the session on a positive note before the cat insists on leaving.

Gradually increase their territory and your interaction with them. I've no doubt that if you let your cats set the pace, it won't be long before your pets feel comfortable and things are pretty much as they were before.

Q: I love animals, but our beautiful neighborhood is rapidly going to the dogs -- literally. One dog barks incessantly, which sets the other dogs to barking back. Catnaps for us neighbors have become a thing of the past, and these dogs surely cannot be happy. Should I call the SPCA? Don't tell me to talk with their owners; they must know how much noise their dogs are making. Can anything else be done? -- J.H., via e-mail

A: Humane societies investigate animal cruelty, but they are not set up to deal with animal nuisances, unless neglect or cruelty is involved. Barking dogs are low on the priority list for municipal agencies as well, which realistically leaves you with two choices: Deal with the neighbor whose dog triggers the others, or live with the problem.

You might be surprised at how oblivious the neighbor with the problem dog is to the noise the animal makes. Over the years I have come to believe that many owners of barking dogs develop the ability to tune them out, and so may not be fully aware of the trouble their pets are causing. I'm not offering this as an excuse, believe me, because someone whose dog is a nonstop barker in the way you describe is likely not a caring, responsible pet lover. These dogs are bored and lonely, at the very least, and often neglected as well.

While it's better to talk one-on-one with the owners of the problem dog, I realize that's not always possible, especially if that person has proven to be dangerous or scary to deal with in the past. You might instead consider sending an anonymous letter that indicates how much unhappiness the animal is causing the neighbors, and include a flier with suggestions for improving the situation, through better care of the dog, integration of the animal into the family home and management of the situations that trigger the barking.

The Denver Dumb Friends League has an excellent fact sheet covering why dogs bark and how pet owners can to choose effective solutions. You can find it at www.ddfl.org/behavior/barkingdog.htm. Print it out and provide your neighbor with the information.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Digital photography has changed my life. Instead of wasting roll after roll of film -- or not bothering to take pictures at all because of the trouble and expense -- I now take hundreds of pictures, happy in the knowledge that if I get just one or two good ones out of every few dozen taken, I haven't wasted anything except my time.

With a few clicks of the mouse, the out-of-frame, out-of-focus or "just not right" images are jettisoned forever. A few clicks more, and those images with potential are fixed up and made suitable for framing -- a crop here, a red eye changed to brown, the elimination of items cluttering up the background.

The result: The best pictures of my pets I've ever taken.

Years ago a pet photographer told me the best suggestion he could offer when it comes to getting good pictures is to constantly be taking them. That's advice I'm finally following, but I've also had good luck paying attention to these other tried-and-true tips:

-- Head outdoors if you can. Taking pictures outside gives your pet a more natural, healthy look. If your pet is a solid, dark color, use your flash to bring out the detail in your pet's face. If you do end up with red eye, use photo-editing software (basic programs come free with many new computers) to fix the problem.

-- Get close. If you want a good picture, you need to go where your pet is. Shoot at just below your pet's eye level and zoom in as closely as you can for good detail.

-- Watch your backgrounds. Think neutral -- a plain wall, not a cluttered cabinet. Think contrast -- light for a dark pet, dark for a light one. If your cat loves to sleep on the busy fabric of your sofa, for example, consider throwing a solid-colored blanket down first. You might be able to edit the distraction out with photo-editing software, but it's easier to avoid it in the first place.

-- Get kids to help. I love pictures of kids and pets, and have always found that kids make the best photographer's assistants as well. Children can help by getting a pet's attention with a toy or treat, or by holding the pet for a picture of child and pet together. One of my favorite things to do is give the children in my life throwaway cameras and let them take their own pictures. I get the images put on a photo CD, use photo-editing software to make them look better, and then give the best as prints in inexpensive frames to the young photographers.

-- Be creative. If you want your pet to kiss your children, do as the pros do: Put a little butter on your children and let the pet kiss it off. This is a tip I got years ago when I interviewed a woman who trained animals for commercials. I've smiled every time I've seen a dog smooch a kid on TV since, knowing that more than affection was at play.

-- Take some "record-keeping" shots. You never know when a pet will get loose, and having good pictures can help with a swift recovery. Take a picture from the side and one from the front, as well as close-ups of any distinctive markings. Get prints made and put them in a place you'll remember, just in case you need to make up "lost pet" posters.

Final advice: Enjoy and share your pictures! You'll find several sites on the Web that welcome images of pets, or you can use a free Web site to post images on your own. And photo-developing companies offer more than prints of digital images these days: Think note cards, calendars or even posters.

I've put up a few of my own pets on my Web site, (www.spadafori.com -- click on "My Animals") and plan to keep adding as I take more great photos.

THE SCOOP

It's important to provide all pets with toys, but even more essential to keep a good selection of playthings available for those who spend large chunks of their lives in cages or other enclosures. The catalog and Web merchant Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com) offers an interesting twist on the topic of pet toys: supplies for making them yourself. Designed for birds (but also appropriate for rabbits, rats, ferrets and other such pets), the do-it-yourself toy parts include wood blocks, plastic chains, leather shapes and cotton rope, all in various sizes and colors. Making pet toys is a great afternoon project for children.

PETS ON THE WEB

When military families get moved, pets are too often left in the lurch. With local shelters inundated and few prospects for new homes in a community where everyone's in the same situation, these pets too often face euthanasia, while their families go through guilt and grief at an already stressful time. The Web site NetPets (www.netpets.org) is trying to help, organizing a network of foster homes to take care of military pets until the families can take them again. There's a form on the site for people in the military to fill out, and anyone wishing to foster a pet can e-mail for an application. What a great idea!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our cocker, Sam, has beautiful "feathers" on his legs and underbelly. He looks great when he comes from the groomer, but it doesn't take long before all that beautiful, long fur is matted, tangled and (in the summer) full of burrs. Any suggestions for keeping him neater? -- P.D., via e-mail

A: Show breeders have a tendency to overdo when it comes to the lovely features of any breed. That's why you see poodles look the way they do in the show ring, in a ridiculous parody of what was once a cut designed to help keep a working dog functional. In cockers, breeders have gone for more and more "furnishings" -- longer, more luxurious coats that look stunning in the show ring but are too often mess in real life.

While show people work to keep every inch of coat, for the purposes of everyday life it's usually better to keep things cut short. That's why pet poodles are kept in body-hugging "puppy clips" and terriers have their wiry coats clipped instead of having dead hairs pulled individually, as is normal for show. (Exhibitors call this "hand-stripping." It's tedious work but essential for winning.)

Ask your groomer to clip your dog's feathers to a functional length -- short enough to keep combed and brushed, long enough to maintain a degree of attractiveness.

As for burrs, here's a tip from hunting-dog trainers: Spray a little nonstick cooking spray (such as Pam) on the area. The lubricating effect will make it easier to slide the burr out of the fur.

Q: I lost my sweet old cat a couple months ago, after almost 18 years. She was an "only child" for most of her life. I tried to bring in a kitten once, but she would not stop attacking the interloper. In her later years, I tried to bring in another older cat, but she wouldn't come out from under the bed.

Since I work, I feel it would be better to have two cats, so they can keep each other company while I'm gone. This summer I'll be adopting a kitten. Should I adopt two at once, or stagger them? -- W.N., via e-mail

A: Your sense of the matter is correct: Companionship is a wonderful thing, especially for indoor cats who are left alone while their people are at work or school. While some cats clearly would prefer to be loners, many form what are clearly strong attachments to others of their kind.

It's a great idea to adopt two kittens at once, but here's another option to consider: Welcome a pair of already bonded adult cats into your home.

Almost every shelter or rescue group has cats who are better off staying together. Homes for these cats – many of whom have been together since birth -- are few and far between, which means these often loving companions end up being separated or not adopted at all.

Adorable kittens have a much easier time finding homes than adult cats do, and the situation is more difficult for cats who need to be placed together. Since you're looking for a pair of companionable cats, why not adopt two who already are comfortable with each other?

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Doing something right in the first place is always preferable to trying to undo and then redo, and that's as true in raising a puppy as with any other endeavor. If you remember never to let a puppy get away behavior you wouldn't tolerate in an adult dog, you're well on your way to raising a well-mannered canine companion.

It's simple in theory, but in truth, time slips away and puppies grow up quickly. That's why so many people end up with a dog who got away with just about everything as puppy and whose brattiness isn't very adorable anymore.

Some people never get the chance to raise their dogs right, since they adopt their pets as adults, complete with errant behaviors and bad attitudes that no one ever bothered to correct.

These dogs typically don't listen and don't consider a human to be in charge -- even if the animals are very good-natured in their lack of respect. Sometimes the situation can become dangerous: A dog with dominant tendencies who doesn't understand his proper role in the family may be on track to attack if his self-perceived authority is challenged.

The good news is that for most dogs it's not that difficult get the situation turned around, with a simple and consistent approach to your family's handling of your pet. (The exception: dogs who are already showing signs of dominance or aggression. For them I recommend the help of a veterinary behaviorist or trainer with expertise in canine aggression, and the sooner the better.)

If your dog doesn't seem to be paying attention, you need to lay the foundation for good behavior by showing your dog with every interaction that he is no longer the boss of the household. Call it "learning by earning," if you will. The bottom line: Your dog doesn't get anything he likes until he does something you want.

Here's how it works. Start with the basics of dog obedience -- sit and stay. Chances are your dog already knows these commands. If not, check out a class, book or video to help you teach him. Once your dog understands and performs these behaviors more or less on command, you're going to use them to reinforce your authority, gently but persistently.

Ask your dog to sit before you put his leash on for a walk. To sit before you pet him (which will also keep him from jumping up) or throw a toy for him to fetch. To sit and stay when his bowl is placed before him, and hold that position until released. To sit and stay before the door is opened, to sit and stay before being let out of the car into the park and so on. Be patient: Your dog will soon catch on to the new world order, as long as you're consistent in insisting on his good behavior before good things come his way.

No sit, no reward, no discussion.

What's the point? A dog who sits for what he wants won't be jumping all over you, knocking over children, guests or your fragile Aunt Sarah. That in itself is worth the effort.

But the real beauty is what's happening deep down. Without raising your voice, jerking a leash, spanking or otherwise roughly handling your dog, you've made it clear to him that you are in charge. And that's going to make everything else about living with and training your dog easier.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Westminster Kennel Club dog show is arguably the best known of all canine events, and it draws a lot of attention from pet lovers who don't know or care much about these sometimes confusing competitions. The telecast always leaves people wondering: How exactly do judges decide which beautiful dog should win?

If you're among those wondering -- or even if you consider yourself a canine expert -- you might enjoy You Be the Judge (www.worldclassdogs.com/YouBeTheJudge.asp), a Web site designed to give you an idea of what it's like to hand out the ribbons. Noted judge and illustrator Robert Cole offers several examples of dogs in many different breeds, and then reveals which dog was his pick at the end, and why.

THE SCOOP

A bottle of children's bubble solution has always been an entertaining and inexpensive way to get many cats to play. Now a company called WorldWise has gone a step better, combining bubble solution with something else adored by many cats -- catnip. The manufacturer says its SmartyKat BubbleNip is made from non-toxic ingredients safe for both pets and household surfaces, and contains certified organic catnip to enhance feline interest. Each bottle contains 8 fluid ounces and retails from $2.99 to $4.99. You'll find it at many large department stores or grocery chains.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I had a good laugh at the parrot story in your recent column as it reminded me of one of my own. Years ago, a pet store in Palo Alto, Calif., received a magnificent double-yellow-headed Amazon and hung the bird's cage out on the sidewalk for all to see and hear.

Because the bird had been imported from Mexico, it spoke (exceedingly well and all the time) in Spanish. For a while, all the conversation went untranslated until a graduate student in languages from Stanford passed by and stopped to practice his Spanish on the bird.

After a few minutes he went into the store and told them they had better send the bird back from where they got it, as its vocabulary was made up exclusively of horrifying obscenities.

The upshot of the whole thing was that the pet shop owners upped the price of the bird, advertised the fact that his Spanish was indescribably obscene and sold it in a matter of days after having had it on sale for weeks! -– P.F., via e-mail

A: Great story! Birds, like children, do say the darndest things. When I was working on my book "Birds for Dummies," my co-author and I thought about including a chapter on some of the most incredible things parrots have ever said. We soon dropped the idea because we realized too many parrots have a vocabulary that would not be appropriate for polite society.

Instead, we included a chapter of bird jokes. Here's one of my favorites, which just happens to be on the topic of birds with bad vocabularies:

A lady had a female parrot who wouldn't stop swearing. She tried everything and was constantly embarrassed by her pet's gutter mouth. Her fiance's parents were coming over to dinner to meet her, and she was desperate to clean up her bird's language.

A friend of hers had two male parrots with perfect company manners. One said the rosary all day, and the other repeated Hail Marys. She thought the pair would be a good influence on her bird, so she made arrangements to bring them over for a visit.

The boy parrots settled in and looked over at the girl parrot. "OK," says one to the other. "You can knock off the praying now. We got what we asked for."

Q: Every winter my husband makes fun of me for putting a sweater on our dog, a shorthaired terrier mix. He says it's not necessary, even here in the Northeast, where we get lots of bitter cold and plenty of snow. But Hildy likes her sweater and wiggles into it happily. Where's the harm? -- H.R., via e-mail

A: You're right: There's no harm in a dog sweater. And for some dogs, there's a lot of good.

Dogs who will benefit from the extra warmth -- especially in very cold climates -- include those who are older or shorthaired. Add to the list those of a lean body type such as whippets, Italian greyhounds and greyhounds.

For any of these dogs, a sweater can be a real kindness. For other dogs ... well, what's wrong with a fashion statement, just for fun?

On a winter night outside an ocean-front restaurant on the Pacific Coast, I once ran into a dog who could not have been better or more appropriately dressed. The dog was a beautiful Sheltie, walking up the sidewalk wearing a red plaid rain slicker with a matching leash. The wind was blowing so hard it was pushing the rain sideways, but that Sheltie looked quite content.

Huddled in a cheap, ugly jacket, I envied him his stylish and practical attire.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600