Digital photography has changed my life. Instead of wasting roll after roll of film -- or not bothering to take pictures at all because of the trouble and expense -- I now take hundreds of pictures, happy in the knowledge that if I get just one or two good ones out of every few dozen taken, I haven't wasted anything except my time.

With a few clicks of the mouse, the out-of-frame, out-of-focus or "just not right" images are jettisoned forever. A few clicks more, and those images with potential are fixed up and made suitable for framing -- a crop here, a red eye changed to brown, the elimination of items cluttering up the background.

The result: The best pictures of my pets I've ever taken.

Years ago a pet photographer told me the best suggestion he could offer when it comes to getting good pictures is to constantly be taking them. That's advice I'm finally following, but I've also had good luck paying attention to these other tried-and-true tips:

-- Head outdoors if you can. Taking pictures outside gives your pet a more natural, healthy look. If your pet is a solid, dark color, use your flash to bring out the detail in your pet's face. If you do end up with red eye, use photo-editing software (basic programs come free with many new computers) to fix the problem.

-- Get close. If you want a good picture, you need to go where your pet is. Shoot at just below your pet's eye level and zoom in as closely as you can for good detail.

-- Watch your backgrounds. Think neutral -- a plain wall, not a cluttered cabinet. Think contrast -- light for a dark pet, dark for a light one. If your cat loves to sleep on the busy fabric of your sofa, for example, consider throwing a solid-colored blanket down first. You might be able to edit the distraction out with photo-editing software, but it's easier to avoid it in the first place.

-- Get kids to help. I love pictures of kids and pets, and have always found that kids make the best photographer's assistants as well. Children can help by getting a pet's attention with a toy or treat, or by holding the pet for a picture of child and pet together. One of my favorite things to do is give the children in my life throwaway cameras and let them take their own pictures. I get the images put on a photo CD, use photo-editing software to make them look better, and then give the best as prints in inexpensive frames to the young photographers.

-- Be creative. If you want your pet to kiss your children, do as the pros do: Put a little butter on your children and let the pet kiss it off. This is a tip I got years ago when I interviewed a woman who trained animals for commercials. I've smiled every time I've seen a dog smooch a kid on TV since, knowing that more than affection was at play.

-- Take some "record-keeping" shots. You never know when a pet will get loose, and having good pictures can help with a swift recovery. Take a picture from the side and one from the front, as well as close-ups of any distinctive markings. Get prints made and put them in a place you'll remember, just in case you need to make up "lost pet" posters.

Final advice: Enjoy and share your pictures! You'll find several sites on the Web that welcome images of pets, or you can use a free Web site to post images on your own. And photo-developing companies offer more than prints of digital images these days: Think note cards, calendars or even posters.

I've put up a few of my own pets on my Web site, (www.spadafori.com -- click on "My Animals") and plan to keep adding as I take more great photos.

THE SCOOP

It's important to provide all pets with toys, but even more essential to keep a good selection of playthings available for those who spend large chunks of their lives in cages or other enclosures. The catalog and Web merchant Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com) offers an interesting twist on the topic of pet toys: supplies for making them yourself. Designed for birds (but also appropriate for rabbits, rats, ferrets and other such pets), the do-it-yourself toy parts include wood blocks, plastic chains, leather shapes and cotton rope, all in various sizes and colors. Making pet toys is a great afternoon project for children.

PETS ON THE WEB

When military families get moved, pets are too often left in the lurch. With local shelters inundated and few prospects for new homes in a community where everyone's in the same situation, these pets too often face euthanasia, while their families go through guilt and grief at an already stressful time. The Web site NetPets (www.netpets.org) is trying to help, organizing a network of foster homes to take care of military pets until the families can take them again. There's a form on the site for people in the military to fill out, and anyone wishing to foster a pet can e-mail for an application. What a great idea!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our cocker, Sam, has beautiful "feathers" on his legs and underbelly. He looks great when he comes from the groomer, but it doesn't take long before all that beautiful, long fur is matted, tangled and (in the summer) full of burrs. Any suggestions for keeping him neater? -- P.D., via e-mail

A: Show breeders have a tendency to overdo when it comes to the lovely features of any breed. That's why you see poodles look the way they do in the show ring, in a ridiculous parody of what was once a cut designed to help keep a working dog functional. In cockers, breeders have gone for more and more "furnishings" -- longer, more luxurious coats that look stunning in the show ring but are too often mess in real life.

While show people work to keep every inch of coat, for the purposes of everyday life it's usually better to keep things cut short. That's why pet poodles are kept in body-hugging "puppy clips" and terriers have their wiry coats clipped instead of having dead hairs pulled individually, as is normal for show. (Exhibitors call this "hand-stripping." It's tedious work but essential for winning.)

Ask your groomer to clip your dog's feathers to a functional length -- short enough to keep combed and brushed, long enough to maintain a degree of attractiveness.

As for burrs, here's a tip from hunting-dog trainers: Spray a little nonstick cooking spray (such as Pam) on the area. The lubricating effect will make it easier to slide the burr out of the fur.

Q: I lost my sweet old cat a couple months ago, after almost 18 years. She was an "only child" for most of her life. I tried to bring in a kitten once, but she would not stop attacking the interloper. In her later years, I tried to bring in another older cat, but she wouldn't come out from under the bed.

Since I work, I feel it would be better to have two cats, so they can keep each other company while I'm gone. This summer I'll be adopting a kitten. Should I adopt two at once, or stagger them? -- W.N., via e-mail

A: Your sense of the matter is correct: Companionship is a wonderful thing, especially for indoor cats who are left alone while their people are at work or school. While some cats clearly would prefer to be loners, many form what are clearly strong attachments to others of their kind.

It's a great idea to adopt two kittens at once, but here's another option to consider: Welcome a pair of already bonded adult cats into your home.

Almost every shelter or rescue group has cats who are better off staying together. Homes for these cats – many of whom have been together since birth -- are few and far between, which means these often loving companions end up being separated or not adopted at all.

Adorable kittens have a much easier time finding homes than adult cats do, and the situation is more difficult for cats who need to be placed together. Since you're looking for a pair of companionable cats, why not adopt two who already are comfortable with each other?

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Doing something right in the first place is always preferable to trying to undo and then redo, and that's as true in raising a puppy as with any other endeavor. If you remember never to let a puppy get away behavior you wouldn't tolerate in an adult dog, you're well on your way to raising a well-mannered canine companion.

It's simple in theory, but in truth, time slips away and puppies grow up quickly. That's why so many people end up with a dog who got away with just about everything as puppy and whose brattiness isn't very adorable anymore.

Some people never get the chance to raise their dogs right, since they adopt their pets as adults, complete with errant behaviors and bad attitudes that no one ever bothered to correct.

These dogs typically don't listen and don't consider a human to be in charge -- even if the animals are very good-natured in their lack of respect. Sometimes the situation can become dangerous: A dog with dominant tendencies who doesn't understand his proper role in the family may be on track to attack if his self-perceived authority is challenged.

The good news is that for most dogs it's not that difficult get the situation turned around, with a simple and consistent approach to your family's handling of your pet. (The exception: dogs who are already showing signs of dominance or aggression. For them I recommend the help of a veterinary behaviorist or trainer with expertise in canine aggression, and the sooner the better.)

If your dog doesn't seem to be paying attention, you need to lay the foundation for good behavior by showing your dog with every interaction that he is no longer the boss of the household. Call it "learning by earning," if you will. The bottom line: Your dog doesn't get anything he likes until he does something you want.

Here's how it works. Start with the basics of dog obedience -- sit and stay. Chances are your dog already knows these commands. If not, check out a class, book or video to help you teach him. Once your dog understands and performs these behaviors more or less on command, you're going to use them to reinforce your authority, gently but persistently.

Ask your dog to sit before you put his leash on for a walk. To sit before you pet him (which will also keep him from jumping up) or throw a toy for him to fetch. To sit and stay when his bowl is placed before him, and hold that position until released. To sit and stay before the door is opened, to sit and stay before being let out of the car into the park and so on. Be patient: Your dog will soon catch on to the new world order, as long as you're consistent in insisting on his good behavior before good things come his way.

No sit, no reward, no discussion.

What's the point? A dog who sits for what he wants won't be jumping all over you, knocking over children, guests or your fragile Aunt Sarah. That in itself is worth the effort.

But the real beauty is what's happening deep down. Without raising your voice, jerking a leash, spanking or otherwise roughly handling your dog, you've made it clear to him that you are in charge. And that's going to make everything else about living with and training your dog easier.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Westminster Kennel Club dog show is arguably the best known of all canine events, and it draws a lot of attention from pet lovers who don't know or care much about these sometimes confusing competitions. The telecast always leaves people wondering: How exactly do judges decide which beautiful dog should win?

If you're among those wondering -- or even if you consider yourself a canine expert -- you might enjoy You Be the Judge (www.worldclassdogs.com/YouBeTheJudge.asp), a Web site designed to give you an idea of what it's like to hand out the ribbons. Noted judge and illustrator Robert Cole offers several examples of dogs in many different breeds, and then reveals which dog was his pick at the end, and why.

THE SCOOP

A bottle of children's bubble solution has always been an entertaining and inexpensive way to get many cats to play. Now a company called WorldWise has gone a step better, combining bubble solution with something else adored by many cats -- catnip. The manufacturer says its SmartyKat BubbleNip is made from non-toxic ingredients safe for both pets and household surfaces, and contains certified organic catnip to enhance feline interest. Each bottle contains 8 fluid ounces and retails from $2.99 to $4.99. You'll find it at many large department stores or grocery chains.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I had a good laugh at the parrot story in your recent column as it reminded me of one of my own. Years ago, a pet store in Palo Alto, Calif., received a magnificent double-yellow-headed Amazon and hung the bird's cage out on the sidewalk for all to see and hear.

Because the bird had been imported from Mexico, it spoke (exceedingly well and all the time) in Spanish. For a while, all the conversation went untranslated until a graduate student in languages from Stanford passed by and stopped to practice his Spanish on the bird.

After a few minutes he went into the store and told them they had better send the bird back from where they got it, as its vocabulary was made up exclusively of horrifying obscenities.

The upshot of the whole thing was that the pet shop owners upped the price of the bird, advertised the fact that his Spanish was indescribably obscene and sold it in a matter of days after having had it on sale for weeks! -– P.F., via e-mail

A: Great story! Birds, like children, do say the darndest things. When I was working on my book "Birds for Dummies," my co-author and I thought about including a chapter on some of the most incredible things parrots have ever said. We soon dropped the idea because we realized too many parrots have a vocabulary that would not be appropriate for polite society.

Instead, we included a chapter of bird jokes. Here's one of my favorites, which just happens to be on the topic of birds with bad vocabularies:

A lady had a female parrot who wouldn't stop swearing. She tried everything and was constantly embarrassed by her pet's gutter mouth. Her fiance's parents were coming over to dinner to meet her, and she was desperate to clean up her bird's language.

A friend of hers had two male parrots with perfect company manners. One said the rosary all day, and the other repeated Hail Marys. She thought the pair would be a good influence on her bird, so she made arrangements to bring them over for a visit.

The boy parrots settled in and looked over at the girl parrot. "OK," says one to the other. "You can knock off the praying now. We got what we asked for."

Q: Every winter my husband makes fun of me for putting a sweater on our dog, a shorthaired terrier mix. He says it's not necessary, even here in the Northeast, where we get lots of bitter cold and plenty of snow. But Hildy likes her sweater and wiggles into it happily. Where's the harm? -- H.R., via e-mail

A: You're right: There's no harm in a dog sweater. And for some dogs, there's a lot of good.

Dogs who will benefit from the extra warmth -- especially in very cold climates -- include those who are older or shorthaired. Add to the list those of a lean body type such as whippets, Italian greyhounds and greyhounds.

For any of these dogs, a sweater can be a real kindness. For other dogs ... well, what's wrong with a fashion statement, just for fun?

On a winter night outside an ocean-front restaurant on the Pacific Coast, I once ran into a dog who could not have been better or more appropriately dressed. The dog was a beautiful Sheltie, walking up the sidewalk wearing a red plaid rain slicker with a matching leash. The wind was blowing so hard it was pushing the rain sideways, but that Sheltie looked quite content.

Huddled in a cheap, ugly jacket, I envied him his stylish and practical attire.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

In my old home, I had a postage-stamp back yard that I abandoned to the destructive desires of my digging dogs. Not surprisingly, they trashed it, and that was OK with me because there wasn't enough room for the yard to be anything more than a dog run.

In my new home, I have a landscaped quarter-acre, and I decided to compromise and keep most of it looking nice. After a few weekends of fence work, the dogs have their part of the yard, and I have mine.

Their section of the new yard is larger than the entire outside space at the old house. And they still have access to my section when I'm with them to supervise. There's 24-hour access to their yard through a dog door from the house, and -- most important -- they are welcome to dig all they want in their outside space.

This compromise is in line with my belief that it's not fair to deprive an animal of what comes naturally, at least without offering something in return. You can take a working dog away from the job he was bred to do, but don't expect him not to substitute "bad" behaviors such as digging or barking to cope with his isolation, inactivity and boredom.

That's why although I've known many punishment-based "cures" for digging, I don't recommend them. As with any behavior, you have to understand what's at the root of the problem before you can come up with a fair approach to minimizing the damage.

Like many behaviors people find troubling, digging is natural for dogs, with any number of triggers driving the activity. Among them:

-- Excess energy and boredom. This combination is either directly responsible or is a contributing factor in most canine behavior problems.

-- Wanderlust. Some dogs, especially unneutered males, have a strong desire to dig their way out of the yard, especially when the breeze carries the enticing scent of a female in heat.

-- Prey drive. Subterranean wildlife is irresistible to some dogs, especially terriers or terrier mixes. These breeds were developed to dig vermin from their lairs, and they still do so with much enthusiasm.

-- Need for shelter. A well-dug den can keep a dog cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Although any breed or mix can show an interest in making a den, the behavior is more common in such breeds as huskies and malamutes.

-- Recreation. Digging is just plain fun. Just ask my dogs!

The trick to having a nice yard while being fair to your dog is to do what you can to eliminate the triggers for digging, make sure your dog is getting the exercise and attention he needs, and take your pet's natural tendencies into account when planning your outside space.

Neutering can greatly reduce the desire to wander, so if your dog's a roaming Romeo, a trip to the veterinarian should be the first item on your list. If wildlife's a problem, contact your local agricultural extension for tips on how to get the pests to skip your yard. And make sure your pet has the shelter he needs to stay comfortable no matter the weather.

Often the lack of exercise and sheer boredom are the biggest contributors to this behavior problem -- and any other. If you make it impossible for your dog to dig -- by cooping him up in a concrete-floored kennel run, for example -- he may switch to another unwanted behavior such as nonstop barking or self-mutilation.

Every dog needs an exercise program, with the emphasis on heart-thumping aerobic interludes such as a daily run or a game of fetch. If you keep your pet well-exercised, he'll be less likely to indulge in destructive behaviors.

Doing your part to keep your dog mentally engaged and well-exercised may discourage the casual digger, but it won't stop the truly dedicated. For these pets, a dog yard may be the best solution -- as long as you're not using it to neglect your dog's social and exercise needs.

Even in a dog yard, you may need to discourage some digging, such as a dog's effort to get under the fence. For these problem areas, discourage digging by filling in holes and covering them with chicken wire and large rocks or concrete stepping stones.

PETS ON THE WEB

Chickens can be wonderful pets, if you live where you're allowed to keep them. After all, not many pets can provide you not only with affection and entertainment, but also eggs! While your neighbors might not appreciate the sunrise serenades of roosters, hens can fit comfortably in most suburban and rural environments. The Backyard Chickens Web site (www.backyardchickens.com) is a welcoming place for would-be chicken keepers and experts alike, with information on choosing and caring for chickens, images of some incredible coops and message boards for getting help from other chicken fans.

THE SCOOP

Planning a summer vacation? It wouldn't hurt to make arrangements for your pets now. Summer's a busy time for pet sitters and boarding kennels, and slots fill up quickly for prime times like long holiday weekends and the Fourth of July. To be sure your pet is covered, make your reservations well in advance. The same holds true for the winter holidays: Some boarding kennels and pet sitters get reservations well before Labor Day for the weeks around Christmas and New Year's.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We want to respond to your article regarding bike riding with your dog or cat. We have a Jack Russell terrier mix, about 20 pounds, who we take on our bike rides.

We purchased a kid carrier, the cheapest we could find, made of hard molded plastic. My husband put carpet in the seat area to give the dog footing so she would not slip or slide around and also so she could have a soft place to sit. We snap two shoulder straps to her collar so she can't fall or jump out. We have been biking with her since August of '97. The longest ride we have done is 40 miles in one day.

Sarah enjoys being with us, but her legs are too short to keep up. That makes the kid carrier the perfect solution. -– R.S., via e-mail

A: Child carriers can work well for small dogs. A friend of mine has taken her Pomeranian cross-country skiing, using one of those soft-sided carriers designed to carry an infant on a parent's tummy. It worked out great for them both.

Of course, child carriers aren't the only means of transportation for small dogs. Anyone who has ever spent time in New York City has seen the heads of stylish small dogs poking out of the expensive handbags of their owners. The first time I saw this was at a Bloomingdale's department store, where a beautifully groomed Maltese surveyed the holiday crowds from the comfort of the owner's handbag while the equally well-turned-out woman tried out various lipsticks at the cosmetics counter.

Truly, small dogs have all the fun!

Q: I have a Westie who "demands" a 4-inch rolled rawhide nearly every day. My question: Should there be a limit to how many she gets? It doesn't seem to affect her digestive processes or appetite, and it does keep her teeth in great shape. -- D.C., via e-mail

A: Although popular, rawhides do present some problems for dogs and humans alike.

Every year I get anecdotal reports of dogs who have choked on these popular treats or have had to have surgery to remove blockages caused by them.

Then there's the risk to humans: A few years back the federal government warned that salmonella could be contracted from these products. Their suggestion: Young children and immune-compromised adults should avoid rawhides, and others should wash their hands thoroughly after handling the chews.

To be fair, the number of problems caused by rawhides compared to the amounts purchased and consumed is certainly very small, but the risks do need to be acknowledged.

In any case, a daily 4-inch rawhide strikes me as a bit much for a small dog. To satisfy your dog's chewing desires, try substituting a hard rubber chew. I like to recommend a Kong toy, stuffed with a little peanut butter to pique your pup's interest. Your dog will get lots of chewing time, without swallowing much material.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600