When I first started writing about the importance of taking care of a pet's teeth, the response I most often heard was one of astonishment. "I'm supposed to brush my dog's teeth?" pet lovers would say. "You're kidding, right?"

These days, many pet lovers respond not with surprise, but with guilt. "I know I should brush my pet's teeth, but I don't because my cat won't put up with it," they say. Or they don't have time, or they forget.

And so ignorance becomes guilt. Now that's progress! And the next step: good dental health from the very beginning.

Veterinarians now recommend training kittens and puppies to accept having their teeth brushed, a job that's not really that hard even with older dogs and cats. Approach the task with a positive attitude, take it slow and easy, and then follow with something the pet likes -- a play session, petting or even a food treat.

For kittens and puppies, the focus is on training and prevention, but adult pets may need veterinary attention before a preventive-care program can help. Your veterinarian should check your pet's mouth, teeth and gums during the annual physical, and make recommendations based on what he or she finds there. For many pets, that'll mean dentistry under anesthesia. The procedure takes 45 minutes to an hour, and involves cleaning, polishing, and checking for and treating broken or rotting teeth, cavities, abscesses and periodontal disease.

Today's anesthetics are dramatically safer than even a few years ago, making the danger and pain of untreated dental problems the bigger risk to health, even with older pets.

After the problems are treated, at-home care can keep things in good shape. Here are some tips:

-- Brush or wipe the teeth regularly. Use a toothpaste designed for dogs and cats a couple of times a week at least, although daily is better. Salt or baking soda isn't recommended because too much of the salt gets swallowed, and with small pets that could be a problem. Toothpaste for people is also out, because animals don't know how to rinse and spit. Pet toothpastes contain enzymes that help dissolve plaque and don't need to be rinsed. They also have a flavor pets appreciate.

-- Use a children's soft toothbrush or one made especially for pets. You can also use plain gauze wrapped around a finger or a fingertip brush. Some vets suggest that gauze may work better with cats, especially if dipped in water from some canned tuna.

-- Switch to dry food and offer teeth-cleaning toys. Some pet-food companies now offer kibble with a mild abrasive texture to help keep teeth clean. You might ask your vet about these if tartar buildup is a chronic problem for your pet.

-- Soft chew toys and a chew rope can help keep teeth clean, too. Avoid chews that are hard or are prone to breaking into sharp pieces. These can break teeth or slice gums.

February, incidentally, is National Pet Dental Health month. No, not degreed by an act of Congress, but rather by the American Veterinary Dental Society, which has been using this month as an opportunity to educate for the last decade. According to the AVDS, 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats show signs of oral disease by age 3, making education a worthwhile effort. For more information on this topic, visit the campaign's Web site at www.petdental.com. The site has a question-and-answer section along with pet trivia and special features for children.

PETS ON THE WEB

Love dog noses? Then you'll love DogNose Heaven (www.dognoses.com), which may well be the only Web site in the world dedicated to the presentation of dog nose images. The site offers an amazing array of images, some quite well done, all likely to give you a smile. The site offers galleries of even more dog nose images sent in by visitors. (Don't expect to see your dog up there anytime soon, however, since it appears the site hasn't been updated for a long time.) For more animal nose images, click on the "Animal Nose Web Ring" link, where you'll find nose pictures of everything from coho salmon to yaks.

THE SCOOP

If you purchase a purebred puppy or kitten, make sure you get all the paperwork at the time you take your new family member home. You should get a form that will allow you to apply for registration from a national organization such as the American Kennel Club or the Cat Fanciers' Association. You should also get a pedigree (a chart of the animal's ancestors) and health records.

If you don't get the paperwork, the breed registries will try to help with registration matters if you contact them. But in most cases they can't do much, since people rarely have enough information on the breeder or the animal's parents to get the matter cleared up.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband and I are close to purchasing a new motor coach. We hope to travel with our Persian cat, Chloe. She is strictly an indoor cat, but she does travel to and from the groomer, sometimes without a carrier, and doesn't seem to mind the moving vehicle. Our concern is how will she take this change at age 5 1/2. We've been told by her vet that she should be OK as long as we're with her, but obviously there will be an adjustment period.

The main reason for the purchase is because we no longer want to leave her at home. She's part of the family, and it would be much better if she's with us. In the beginning, we'll probably be out for approximately two weeks at the most. -- S.P., via e-mail

A: I predict Chloe will be just fine, since she's already comfortable with movement and road noises.

When I spent a winter in a resort area in Florida, I met all kinds of "snowbirds" -- refugees from the frigid north who were traveling in their motor coaches. It seemed as if a majority of these folks had pets with them -- dogs, cats, birds and even a ferret. These were wonderfully happy pets, who got to be with their people almost all the time.

My biggest concern would be that Chloe have a place to potty where she feels comfortable. That's because a cat who's unhappy with her litter box -- type, location or filler -- won't use it. That's a problem in any household, but in the limited space of a motor coach, a cat who won't use the litter box would be a real problem. Try to find a space where she won't feel likely to be ambushed -- a cupboard with an access hole cut out might be ideal. I know you'll be keeping the box clean in such tight quarters, so I don't need to lecture you on that.

Cats love for things to be routine, so do your best to make your rolling home familiar to Chloe. Is there a throw your cat loves to sleep on? Bring it. Are you feeding her at regular times? Keep the same schedule.

Finally, be sure to keep a collar and tag on your cat, because there's always a chance she might slip out, and make sure your cell number is prominent.

Q: Don't get me wrong: I'm very fond of dogs. But I'm tired of finding "presents" in my front yard. I don't know why people don't understand that it's more than rude to let a dog "go" on someone's property -- it's trespassing! Would you please tell your readers to keep their dogs at home? That's what back yards are for! -- G.N., via e-mail

A: Leaving dogs at home isn't advisable, but picking up after them should be the law. Dogs need walks for both physical and mental reasons, and studies have shown that walking a dog is good for the owner as well.

That said, I have never understood why people who would never think of throwing an empty drink container on someone's lawn allow a dog to leave behind something a million times more vile.

It's easy to scoop! For small dogs, plastic sandwich bags with flip-over tops work great. For large dogs, plastic grocery bags will handle things nicely. Empty bags are easy to slip into a pocket, and using them will allow cleanups without touching the mess.

Dog lovers: Don't neglect this important part of being a responsible and considerate dog lover. Your neighbors deserve better.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When I was in college, I once went to a party at a house shared by a handful of young men. They had all the requisite trappings of college kids in a quasi-frat environment: furniture they'd found at the thrift store, a cupboard full of Kraft macaroni and cheese, and a refrigerator filled with take-out leftovers and plenty of beer.

They also had a parrot with the crudest vocabulary I'd ever heard. He was a lively, yellow-naped Amazon, and his most-used expression was -- no wait, I can't repeat it. This is, after all, a family column.

I've wondered over the years what happened to that bird. The image of any of those men, now well into middle age, probably long-married with children, keeping a parrot whose vocabulary isn't fit for nice company ... well, it just doesn't compute. I just hope the bird found a good home, ideally with someone who has a severe hearing impairment as well as friends and family with a sense of humor.

Motto of this story: If you're going to teach your parrot to talk, you might want to think about what you want the bird to say. In other words, don't teach your bird anything you wouldn't want a small child or minister to hear. Many parrots can live a long time, and what might be funny in some situations definitely will not be appreciated in others.

Want a talking parrot anyway? You're certainly not alone, but you might not have the "luck" of those college kids when it comes to encouraging avian conversation. Relatively few species of pet parrots are good at talking, and even individual birds from those species best known for their mimicry might not possess the gift of gab.

If you're absolutely set on owning a talking bird, buy one who talks already -- and make sure you hear the conversation before you pay.

If you want to start with a young bird, you'll have better luck if you choose an African gray or a yellow-naped or double-yellow-headed Amazon from a reputable source. Some budgies are also excellent talkers, but the propensity is hit or miss with these little guys.

You can try to teach your parrot to talk by repeating words clearly. Nurture communication further by using the words in their proper context and setting up an association your bird can grasp.

For example, every time your bird lowers his head to request a scratch, ask him, "Wanna scratch?" and then scratch him. When you give him foods or other toys, call them by name out loud. Play naming games with him: Say "keys" and then tell him "Good bird!" for taking them from you, and then repeat the exercise.

You may have an easier time in a one-bird household. Two birds may be more interested in communicating with each other than in figuring out your expressions. Some experts also suggest not attempting to teach your bird to whistle, at least not until he has picked up speech. Whistling birds seem to show a reluctance to use words.

Even if you're not intentionally trying to teach rude words or sounds to your bird, you might want to be careful about what your pet hears. Any word or sound can end up in a bird's repertoire, whether you want them there or not. I once heard of a parrot who picked up some phrases and sounds that, again, I won't describe, except by way of suggesting that perhaps the bedroom isn't the best place to keep such a clever pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

Researcher Irene Pepperberg has been working with parrots since the '70s, and has a fascinating body of work showing that some birds not only talk but also understand much of what they're saying. The Alex Foundation Web site (www.alexfoundation.org) presents an interesting overview of her research, much of which has been centered on an African gray named Alex. According to the Web site, Alex "can count, identify objects, shapes, colors and materials, knows the concepts of same and different, and bosses around lab assistants in order to modify his environment." Pretty eye-opening stuff.

THE SCOOP

If you have a small dog -- or an exceptionally tolerant cat -- and like to ride a bike, you might want to consider a basket designed for you to take your pet along. Cynthia's Twigs (www.cynthiastwigs.com) offers European-style willow baskets that slip over the handlebars of your bike and give your pet a safe place to ride. Back-rack baskets are also available, along with harnesses to keep pets in place. Prices for these lovely baskets range from $20 to $50. The Web site also includes instructions on teaching a pet to stay put.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you for putting the bug in the ear of cat owners about ID and collaring their cats! Now, why don't you put your name or the pet's name on the tag? I'm not objecting, just trying to learn something new. -- M.Q., via e-mail

A: Putting your pet's name on an ID tag is a waste of prime real estate. You already know your pet's name, and the person who finds your pet doesn't need to. (This is especially true of cats, who respond to their names only when they feel like it anyway.) Putting the word "Reward!" in place of your pet's name gives the finder a good reason to get your pet back to you as soon as possible. Remember, not all people are motivated by altruism!

Putting your own name on the tag is fine, but I'd skip the address. Again, maybe I'm thinking the worst of people, but I've heard of cases where thieves will take an animal multiple times for the reward.

Such awful behavior is nothing new, by the way. When my mother was a young child, she had a cocker spaniel named Judy. The dog got out or was stolen, and my grandfather offered a reward. They got Judy back, and then she disappeared again. Another reward, another return, another disappearance. After a couple rounds of this my grandfather decided enough was enough, and my mother never saw Judy again. Decades later, she still remembers how awful this felt to her as a child.

I'd rather put an additional phone number on the tag instead of my name. For years my pets' tags have had the word "Reward!" followed by as many phone numbers as I can fit, including ones of relatives and friends who will be able to deal with the situation should one of my pets go missing when I can't be reached.

Q: We're thinking of putting in one of those electronic fence systems that give a pet a shock for getting near the boundary of the property. Do you have a recommendation as to which brand we should buy? There seems to be a large price difference. -- S.P., via e-mail

A: My recommendations? Build a real fence, or if that's not possible, exercise your dog when you can supervise, on leash if necessary. I don't think it's a good idea to leave a dog unsupervised within the confines of a no-fence electronic system.

Primary among the reasons I'm against them is that while the systems may be effective at keeping your pet on your property, they do nothing to keep others out. That means your pet can be attacked by other dogs, teased by children or even stolen by an adult passer-by. Determined dogs will sometimes take the shock in order to get out if the reason is good enough -- such as a female in heat -- and once out, they won't take the shock again to return to the yard.

I am not in favor of the use of electronic collars by most pet lovers. These training tools are very powerful and highly effective in the hands of knowledgeable trainers, but they require an understanding of how dogs learn as well as exact timing in their use. Too many people just buy them and commence to shocking their dogs, and this is just plain cruel. And that's supervised use, which the collars that come with containment systems are not designed for -- they work automatically, which means they may malfunction without your knowing it.

Good fences make good neighbors, as is often said. I'd stretch that a bit further, and say that good fences make good dogs, too.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Last year at this time I was nursing my aging Sheltie, Andy, through what would be his final days, carrying his arthritic body up and down steps to relieve himself and settling him down every night to sleep on a soft, heated bed. I was always looking for products and services to make him more comfortable, becoming quite an expert at canine geriatrics along the way.

Then Andy died. In the months that followed, a puppy toy spaniel, Chase, then a rescued adult Sheltie named Drew joined retrievers Benjamin and Heather in my family -- and suddenly geriatrics wasn't my concern at all. These days, instead of working to keep a dying, old dog comfortable, I'm spending my time trying to keep four healthy, young dogs busy enough to keep them from driving me crazy.

It's not an easy task with the short, dreary days of winter.

In a nod to the much-missed Andy and his younger days as a bratty, quick-minded dog with too much energy, I'm doing one of his favorite winter diversions with my current pets: teaching them new tricks.

Trick-training isn't like regular obedience training -- it's strictly optional and is just plain fun.

Maybe you can't teach your dog to bark on command, but maybe he'll become the world's best at shaking hands, or at some trick that you and he make up together. The point is to have fun, spend time together and strengthen the bond between you while shaking off those wintertime blahs.

As you work with your pet, get a feeling for the tricks he enjoys the most. Some dogs love retrieving games, while others don't like picking up objects in their mouths. And don't hesitate to build your successes into more elaborate tricks.

My favorite trick, of all those I've ever taught, is one that developed naturally, as I built on each behavior to link them into a pretty impressive show. The dog who "owns" this nifty trick is the one I'd have picked as the least likely to show much aptitude for complicated learning as Ben's not the brightest of dogs. But there's no doubt he shines with the attention and praise he gets for showing off.

In my house we have countless stuffed dog toys, since the retrievers love to carry things in their mouths. Between being gently gnawed on or being left out in the elements, these toys get pretty grubby and are subjected to a ride in the washer and dryer on a fairly regular basis.

True to his heritage, Ben loves to retrieve, and over time I discovered that he would find toys throughout the house and yard and bring them to me, one by one. From there, it wasn't difficult to teach him to put his paws up on the washer and drop the toys into the machine. He does seem to be troubled at the temporary disappearance of all his toys, but he has such a short attention span that he soon forgets to worry and is delighted when they appear clean and fluffy from the dryer later in the day. New toys!

Most tricks are not so practical, but they all are fun for dog and owner alike. Let your imagination and your dog's enthusiasm guide you, and you'll both make the winter days go by more swiftly. Even old dogs can learn new tricks -- Andy was learning well into his teens!

PETS ON THE WEB

Lively and entertaining, finches are a great fit with many different kinds of pet-loving households. Finchworld (www.finchworld.com) is a great place to start learning more about these fun little pets. The site offers information on a few dozen species (including canaries, which are technically finches). If you don't know much about finches, you'll be surprised and delighted with the variety of species available beyond the commonly sold zebra finch. Click on any listed species to find a picture and related articles. Navigation across the top of the home page will take you to more detailed information on care and health topics, with many articles geared for beginners.

THE SCOOP

Are your rabbit's teeth lining up properly? If the answer is no, your pet could be in real trouble. A rabbit's incisors grow throughout the animal's life, and if they get out of alignment, the animal won't be able to eat properly and can starve to death. Veterinary attention is necessary to fix this common problem, called malocclusion, and will involve filing the overgrown teeth so the jaw can work normally again. For some pets this procedure will need to be done on a regular basis, as often as every few weeks. Weight loss is a common symptom of this problem and indicates a pet who needs to see a veterinarian right away.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have three cats, all between 6 and 7 years old. We keep several clean litter boxes in the garage, but our youngest cat prefers to pee on our rugs and hardwood floors. I've sprayed the areas with numerous products, but she always goes back. What can I do to make her understand that she needs to go to the garage when she has to go? -- C.P., via e-mail

A: While it's convenient for you to have boxes in the garage, it seems not to be working out for your cat. It may be that the other cats consider the garage to be their territory and they make her feel unwelcome there, or it may be for a reason that we mere humans will never understand. It doesn't really matter: You'll have to move at least one of those litter boxes.

Do make sure your cat is healthy as part of your efforts, or any changes you make are unlikely to be effective. Health problems from urinary tract infections to diabetes make it very difficult for a cat to have perfect house manners, and these must all be ruled out or treated by your veterinarian if you're to get your cat back on track.

Once your veterinarian has given your cat a clean bill of health, move one or more litter boxes inside, ideally near the area she is choosing to relieve herself. You might need to retrain her by keeping her in a small area -– such as a spare bathroom -- for a couple of weeks, with her food, water, toys and a clean litter box.

The bottom line on litter boxes: It doesn't matter if you like where the litter box is, or what's in it, or how often you clean it. The cat's the one who must be satisfied, or you ultimately won't be.

Q: It has happened again! You've warned before about cats getting killed in dryers, and I've been careful as a result to make sure my cat isn't in our dryer before turning it on. But my neighbor just lost her cat this way, and she's feeling grief and also a hefty load of guilt. She loved her cat so much and can't believe she was responsible for his death. Would you please warn others again? -- D.W., via e-mail

A: If you find your cat in the clothes dryer, I suggest scaring the beejeebers out of the animal to convince your pet once and for all to stay clear of this dangerous appliance. To do this, close the dryer's door for a few seconds (with the machine off, of course) and pound on the metal with your palms, making as much noise as you can. Then open the door and let your cat make a run for it.

I normally would not recommend any training method that would scare an animal, but the risk of death here is too great to ignore. A couple of scary moments in the dryer is vastly preferable to such a horrible death, in my book.

The dryer is a natural draw to heat-seeking cats, but so too is the engine of a car that's just been turned off. The cat who falls asleep next to a warm engine may be gravely injured or killed when the car is started again. That's why I also caution everyone to smack the car hood on cold mornings, to startle any sleeping cats into taking off.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600