A friend of mine likes to say that when you think about all the ways kids can get into trouble, it's amazing that so many make it to adulthood in one piece.

It's true: When I think of all the hare brained things I did as a child, it strikes me as incredibly good fortune that I made it out of my youth safely.

When it comes to my pets, it seems my luck is still holding. In a month when one pet disappeared temporarily and another one almost died of poisoning -- both near-disasters that could have been prevented -- I'm feeling especially blessed to have gotten through both experiences poorer (when it comes to my veterinary bills) but also wiser.

The missing pet I've already mentioned in a previous column. My toy spaniel was either taken or let out by some kids who kicked in the fence boards at my brother's house, where the pets and I had been staying between selling one house and buying another. The ID tag on his collar was his quick ticket home, which validates my regular writing about the importance of these inexpensive items for protecting pets.

Chase wasn't home long when my oldest dog, Benjamin, became gravely ill. The reason is something most pet lovers probably don't know about, and even those who do don't take all that seriously as a risk. I don't I didn't.

Ben was almost done in by eating onions.

It's true I never worried much about onions before. Or chocolate, either, even though both can be lethal to pets. The fact is I didn't think much about these foods because it takes rather a lot of either to put a large dog such as Benjamin in danger.

The last time I gave even a fleeting thought to onions was when a veterinarian friend of mine suggested I warn people to read the labels on meat-based baby food, which is often used to encourage sick or older pets to eat. Some brands put onion powder in their products to make them more palatable to babies, which makes those products a poor choice to give to pets. I duly warned readers and filed "onions" in the dark far corners of my brain.

Benjamin is a counter-cruiser, and has been since he arrived at my home as a young dog nearly eight years ago. His is a bad habit that's notoriously hard to break, since every time a dog succeeds in getting something yummy off the counter the behavior is rewarded. For years I've coped by adjusting my own behavior, keeping the counters clear of anything edible when I'm not home.

But in the hustle and rush of being out of one home and not quite into another, I let my guard down, just enough.

On my brother's kitchen counter was a massive container of dried minced onions -- the size you buy at those warehouse stores. It never occurred to me Benjamin would find dried onions worth the effort to pull off the counter, much less eat. But I was wrong.

In a few days, the dog was near death with a case of what's called Heinz-body anemia, a condition in which compounds in the onion lead to the premature destruction of red blood cells.

As with Chase's unplanned outing, we got lucky. After a few scary days, Benjamin started to improve and is now back to normal -- or what passes for normal in a dog as goofy as he is.

After two near-misses with losing a pet, I'm so happy to be settling into my new home at last, where I'm keeping the counters clear and will never take onions or chocolate -- or the benefits of plain old good luck -- for granted again.

PETS ON THE WEB

Rats are great pets! While many people would not even consider them because they are, well, rats, if you're open-minded you will discover a pet who's very trainable as well as sociable and affectionate. The Rat and Mouse Club of America's Web site (www.rcma.org) packs in a great deal of good information, with plenty of reasons to keep a rat (or more than one, because they get lonely) as well as all the tips you need to care for these pets properly.

THE SCOOP

At this time of year more than any other, wild birds come to rely on the foods we put out for them. Trouble is, bird feeders attract not only birds, but also cats who find the area around feeders to be prime hunting territory. Putting a bell on a cat's collar is often suggested as a way to keep him from successfully hunting songbirds, but in fact many felines learn to stalk and kill prey without jingling the warning bell. To keep cats from killing songbirds, keep them inside. Not only will these cherished birds live longer, but your cat will, too, safe from cars and other deadly outdoor hazards.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My cat is 16 years old. He doesn't go out much anymore, and so has an indoor litter box, which is kept clean. The problem is, he prefers to use my bathroom mats, so I am unable to leave them in the bathroom anymore. Is there anyway to discourage him from using those as a litter box? -- S.B., via e-mail

A: If you pick up the mats, will he use the litter box? If so, I'd suggest keeping the mats off the floor and being happy that you still have the companionship of this charming old fellow with so little in the way of adjustment on your part. Let's be fair about this: I don't think many of us are going to be all that careful with our own bathroom habits when we're as elderly as this cat is!

That said, it's important for anyone with an aging cat to take a look at the litter box situation from the pet's point of view, keeping the possible problems of age in mind. Be sure the box is easy to get to and get into for an older cat. It may be hard, for example, for an elderly cat to jump over the sides if he's arthritic, and if so, one edge of the box may need to be lowered.

We all need to recognize that physical and mental changes can affect the way a pet behaves. When any pet -- especially an aging one -- changes his or her behavior, it's important to rule out any physical causes first with a thorough examination and possible course of treatment by a veterinarian. After that, you can try adjusting your aging pet's environment to keep messes to a minimum, and be accepting of the problems that come as a pet ages.

I hear from a fair amount of people who are upset about old pets who aren't as reliable as they used to be and who are looking for "training tips" to correct the situation. To a certain extent, people with elderly pets have to realize that the adjustments will have to be made on their end, because these dear old animals aren't capable of changing.

Q: My cat resides outside and has any number of places to use as a toilet, including a litter box. But for some odd reason she likes to use the roof as her toilet, where it comes together into a "V." Besides cleaning every few weeks by using a hose and spreading crushed mothballs, what would you suggest to prevent this? -- C.L., via e-mail

A: I'm guessing your cat uses the roof because she feels safe up there and because leaves collect and decompose into that part of the roof, turning it into a natural litter box. The trick to changing this habit is to make the roof less attractive while increasing the desirability of that litter box.

Make sure her litter box is in an area that's protected from the elements as well as from the chance of her being scared or ambushed while in a vulnerable state -- nobody likes to be startled on the potty! Check, too, that the contents are scooped frequently, since a dirty box will send most cats elsewhere.

To discourage the use of the roof spot, I'd clean it of debris every day for a while, spraying not only with water but also with a scent most cats hate, such as lemon. If you can get up on the roof, secure some physical deterrents in the spot, such as crumpled wads of foil or plastic carpet runners with the pointy side out.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

In all my years of writing about pets, I can recall only one discussion with a person so impassioned that I thought I was going to get a drink thrown in my face.

The topic? Declawing cats.

The would-be drink thrower was so against it that she said anyone who'd do such a thing should have the last digits of his or her fingers surgically lopped off just to teach them a lesson in how declawing feels to a cat. In fact, she seemed quite willing to do the deed herself, without anesthesia.

Although I have never been in favor of declawing, I told the woman that in my experience the procedure has saved many a cat's life by keeping the pets from becoming homeless. Which means I am not totally against it.

"You call yourself a cat lover?" hissed the angry woman, her drink shivering in its tumbler as her knuckles turned white from the force of her grip.

My own fingertips are probably lucky she didn't have a knife handy, but I still stand by what I said. Sometimes declawing is the lesser of two evils when it comes to keeping a pet in the home of people who love their furniture and want to love their cat.

Mind you, I am dead-set against declawing kittens -- in case they might one day scratch -- nor do I believe the procedure should ever be the first option when faced with a destructive cat. I shudder when people ask me to recommend a veterinarian to declaw their kitten, as if amputating the tips of their pet's toes is an automatic part of the new pet startup kit.

But I'm also realistic enough to know that in a battle of spouses over shredded furniture, or when new furniture arrives in a household with a scratching cat, declawing may be the only thing between a cat and a trip to a shelter where the animal can face long odds against ever finding a new home.

You can argue that people who would choose furniture over a pet shouldn't have one, and you'd have plenty of company. And I'm not sure I'd disagree. Some experts also argue that declawed cats are more likely to bite pre-emptively , since they've been deprived of their tools for self-defense. All these arguments are strong against the procedure, and I won't deny them. As I've said, declawing is not something I recommend.

But I also know people who declawed their pets reluctantly and were in every other way possible the most loving and caring of owners for the lives of their cats. Do you have a cat who's tearing up your furniture – and maybe, your relationship with your mate? Before you consider a declaw, offer your pet some options (it's a natural behavior to him). Provide places to scratch such as posts or trees covered with rough material and discourage scratching elsewhere by deterrents such as double-sided tape (or the commercial product Sticky Paws), foil or carpet runners with the points out.

You can also try trimming the claws or capping them. Clipping the tips of your cat's claws on a regular basis makes them less efficient at shredding, and you can take it a step further by gluing Soft Paws nail caps over the trimmed tips. The product is available though veterinarians, or through some pet-supply catalogs.

What if none of that works? Then you have a decision to make.

I never recommend declawing, and never downplay the risk or pain of any surgery, or the long-term problems associated with the procedure. But in some situations, I still believe the procedure to be a last-ditch alternative that’s preferable to a cat who ends up abandoned or euthanized for lack of a home.

PETS ON THE WEB

Sugar gliders are marsupials popular with those who want a small and exotic animal companion. Glider Central (www.sugarglider.net) is a well-designed site offering plenty in the way of both information and entertainment on these unusual animals. Especially impressive is the listing of scientific articles relating to these animals, and the effort to keep veterinarians up-to-date on the latest information regarding their care. Great collection of links, as well as a bulletin board for asking more experienced glider-keepers questions. Lots of cute images, too!

THE SCOOP

Winter weather can make people and pets crazy. But if you're creative, you can come up with indoor fun and games to keep everyone happy until longer, warmer days return. For dogs, find a book or Web site on trick-training, get some treats for incentive, and get busy! Every dog can learn a trick or two, and most love showing off once they've learned their crowd-pleasing new behaviors. A perfect new trick is fetch, which can be played in any house with a hallway of decent length. Cats can learn tricks, too, but they also appreciate a new toy or two to break up the boredom. Try anything stuffed with fresh catnip, or maybe one of those cat-fishing toys that are so perfect for getting a cat moving.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you share more information concerning keeping a clean house and pets? With 12 cats, I find that falling behind in the daily chores spells s-t-i-n-k-y. To keep tray odor to a minimum I sponge-wipe the walls of the litter box each time I scoop. I also scrub weekly with soap and hot water and change the litter completely at the same time.

For the inevitable litter tracking no anti-tracking mat is perfect. I keep a hand broom and dustpan set next to the tray so I can easily sweep up tracked or spilled litter. My thoughts on carpet -- who needs it? Carpeting is hard to clean and attracts hairballs. Throw rugs can be easily disinfected, as can tiled floors. -- M.C., via e-mail

A: Amen to you on carpeted floors. I've just moved into a home where the previous owners carpeted the master bedroom in ... white! I looked at it when I moved in, looked at my four dogs, three of them with black fur and thought, "Oh, this is this going to be a mess!"

Needless to say, that carpet will be coming out soon.

As for your cleaning protocol, I admire your dedication. I must admit that I do the best I can and figure visitors will just have to be a little understanding when it comes to the cleanliness of the home of someone as involved with animals as I am.

I'm far more fastidious with sanitation than with pet-related clutter. I wash my hands constantly and sterilize pet dishes after each of their meals. But a little pet hair on the rug or furniture? I'll get around to cleaning it, but not this instant.

Q: My veterinarian has recommended getting my dog's teeth cleaned of tartar, and I would greatly appreciate your opinion on this procedure. Is it really necessary? He claims it is preventive health, but it involves putting Fido (yes, that's really her name) under anesthesia, and that always worries me. Do you do this with your dogs? -- J.M., via e-mail

A: Yes, my own dogs are subject to periodic dental cleanings, and I am a believer in them as important preventive medicine for three reasons.

First, your pet needs to eat. Broken teeth and rotting gums make eating very difficult and painful, and anything to prevent such an outcome is desirable in my book. When I was doing animal-rescue work, I can't tell you how many pets came in with mouths that caused them a great deal of pain, the result of years of dental neglect.

Second, when gums get infected, your pet is constantly showering internal organs with some nasty bacteria. Over time, this is a grave challenge to your pet's immune system and may lead to some serious health problems.

Finally, there's the cleanliness issue. I live with my pets inside the house; they are family who share beds, furniture and lots of affection. Bad teeth and gums smell awful, and make close interactions less than pleasant.

Anesthesia is indeed a concern, but it's a lot safer than it used to be. You can make it even more safe by following your veterinarian's instructions exactly, especially when it comes to withholding food and water before anesthesia. Older pets may require some tests beforehand, such as a blood workup and possibly a chest X-ray.

Once your dog has had her teeth cleaned, you can keep them that way -- and extend the period of time between cleanings -- by brushing her teeth regularly.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Progress is surely being made in the area of avian nutrition. It used to be when I wrote about how important it was for pet birds to eat a varied diet that included pelleted foods, high-quality people food and very little seed, that was news to many bird lovers.

Now, I get a different response to that message. "I know we're not supposed to be feeding our cockatiel a seed-only diet," wrote one reader who seemed to typify the majority of letters I got after my recent column on proper bird diets. "But we can't get her to eat anything else! How can we convert her to a healthier diet? Should we just starve her until she gives in?"

Last question first: Don't starve your bird. They need a constant source of food to stay alive.

The approach for converting a bird to a healthier diet needs to be gradual, encouraging, and sometimes a little bit sneaky. You can usually convert even the most extreme seed junkie to a better diet if you're patient and persistent.

Here are some tips:

-- Confirm good health. Before messing with your pet's diet, make sure he's in good health by having a veterinarian with experience in matters avian go over him thoroughly. Birds are adept at hiding illness, and the stress of a change in diet may be too much for a bird who's sick. A knowledgeable veterinarian will also have some suggestions for foods that might best suit your bird and other tips to help with the conversion.

-- Combine the old and the new. Mix what your bird has been eating with the pellets and other foods he should be eating instead. It is important to remember to feed your bird this mixture out of a single bowl to help form a positive association between old food and new.

-- Gradually reduce seeds. Try starting with a 50/50 blend of seeds and pellets for two to four weeks, and then reduce the percentage of seeds slowly over time. Vary the amounts of pellets, fruit, veggies and seed you offer each day. Be inconsistent in what your bird can expect to see in his food bowl -- it'll keep your bird busy checking for the jackpot of food he likes. Even if the offerings aren't all he dreams of, he's at the food bowl, so he just might eat.

-- Feed new foods in the morning. Birds are the most hungry when they first wake up, so offer pellets and other health foods exclusively at the start of the day before adding seed to the mix later in the day.

-- Encourage mimicry. Birds learn by watching. If you have one bird who is on a healthy diet, let your other birds watch this healthy behavior. Another option: Eat healthy people foods in front of your bird and offer some to your bird. He may try what you're eating just because you seem to like it.

During the conversion, be sure you observe your bird eating and drinking, make sure that he is passing normal droppings and check the muscle on both sides of his keel bone (which runs right down the middle of his chest) regularly to be sure he's maintaining weight.

Don't be in a hurry to change your pet's diet -- follow his lead in determining how fast to reduce the amount of seed in his diet. Any problems? Check in with an avian veterinarian for more targeted assistance.

PETS ON THE WEB

Unless you work out of a home office, chances are you don't get to have your pets with you while you earn a living. Not to worry! For an anytime kitty fix, visit www.broenink-art.nl/maukie.swf. The site doesn't have a name that I can tell, and gives no credit to its creator, but what you'll find there will brighten the day of any cat lover: a graphic representation of a tuxedo-marked kitten (with vivid green eyes) who responds with enthusiasm to being petted and bats playfully at the cursor if teased. A time waster? Sure, but what fun!

THE SCOOP

Will your senior dog welcome or loathe the introduction of a new puppy to the household? In general, older dogs who are still fit and full of life get the most out of the energy a new puppy brings to a family, while debilitated oldsters enjoy such rambunctious company less. If you do choose to add a puppy, be sure to monitor interactions. Be sure the youngster isn't pestering or hurting your senior dog, and make sure to continue giving your older pet plenty of one-on-one attention.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: In a recent column you said that birds should be fed on pellets, not primarily on seeds. Although you didn't specifically state "pet birds" or "tame birds," I gather that this column was aimed at people who own pet birds. Do you extend this same advice to those of us who maintain backyard feeders for wild birds? Seems like if it's the right diet for pet birds, it might be the right diet for wild birds, too. What do you recommend? -- S.N, via e-mail

A: You're right: I was talking about birds kept as pets, specifically parrots (a category that includes parakeets and cockatiels).

When feeding wild birds, remember that what you give them is a supplement to their diet, not their entire diet (although the proportions vary by season). Birds kept as pets don't get to forage on their own for appropriate foods, while wild birds still do. That's why seeds are fine to add to the diet of your backyard visitors, but nutritionally balanced pellets should be the mainstay of your pet bird's diet. (Along with healthy "people food" such as fruits, vegetables, breads, pasta and so on.)

A good resource for those who feed wild birds is the National Bird-Feeding Society (www.birdfeeding.org), which offers tips on creating a safe and inviting backyard habitat, what to feed to attract birds and how to discourage squirrels, rats and other unwanted visitors.

Q: Usually it's pretty easy to tell if your dog is sick. But what about a cat? I have a 3-year-old purebred Manx who I've had since he was a baby, and I was wondering if there are any easy ways to determine when my cat is not feeling well. –- I.K., via e-mail

A: It's generally true that the lower down the food chain you are, the better it is to hide any sign of illness that might attract the attention of a predator looking for an easy meal. That's why dogs don't worry much about hiding illness or pain -- even the small ones are genetically designed to think they are big wolves! Cats are interesting in that they are predators who are also small enough to be prey, so they can be quite adept at hiding signs of illness.

Cats are also creatures of habit, and if a cat's habits change, an illness could be the reason. Any change -– even a subtle one -- in appearance, habits or behavior could signify illness in your cat. This could mean anything from the cat who suddenly isn't grooming himself very well, to one who's losing weight, missing the litter box or vocalizing more or less. Your cat should look healthy, with a glossy coat, eyes bright and clean, nose free of discharge and a graceful, easy and powerful manner to how he moves.

It's a good idea to become familiar with what's normal for your healthy cat by getting in the habit of grooming or otherwise going over him on at least a weekly basis. To make the job easier, keep a simple log so you can compare what you find to what your cat was like previously and so notice subtle changes over time.

I also find with my animals I develop a sense when a pet is "off" that often turns up to be something that requires treatment. I guess over the years I've just gotten used to paying close enough attention that when changes are just developing, I notice them early and have my pets checked out. My "Cats for Dummies" co-author Dr. Paul Pion calls animals who are brought in on such owner hunches "ADR" pets, for "Ain't Doin' Right."

If you pay close attention to changes and trust your instincts when it's time to call the veterinarian, you'll be able to stay on top of things when it comes to your cat's health.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600