Every year my New Year's list of things to do includes reminding readers how important it is to be sure pets have proper collars and up-to-date identification. My New Year's "neck check" has become a tradition for me, and it's something I not only remind others to do, it's also advice I take myself. This year, following my own recent advice kept me from losing one of my pets.

I'm between homes as I write this, having moved out of one house and not quite into another. When I decided to sell my old house, I knew I needed to have some work done on it first, from painting the house inside and out to repairing what was left of the backyard landscaping. I put everything in storage except the animals, my clothes and my computer, and moved in with my brother.

The move went smoothly, thanks to the easygoing nature of my brother and his dog, Taz, who seemed to enjoy having other animals around. My dogs quickly figured out the new dog-door situation, and soon were coming and going into the back yard at will.

Problem is, my brother's house backs up to a school, where the sudden presence of four new dogs apparently caught the attention of some of the children. Still, everything seemed fine when I took off for a weekend trip out of town, and my brother left for an evening out, getting back so late he fell into bed without noticing he was one dog short.

That realization the next morning put him in a state of panic.

He checked every inch of the house and yard, and soon discovered that some of the boards in the fence had been kicked in, making a hole just large enough for the smallest of my dogs to get through. We'll never know whether someone took Chase or if he jumped through the hole on his own, but the result was the same. The puppy was gone.

My brother started searching for the dog. He looked all over the neighborhood and found nothing. He was trying to decide what to do next when something I'd done long ago made the difference: I'd put an ID tag with the word "reward" on Chase's collar.

For years I've advised people not to waste the "real estate" on an ID tag by putting the animal's name on it. Instead, I've suggested putting the word "reward!" on the tag instead. After all, it's fine to trust the kindness of strangers when it comes to getting a lost pet back, but it doesn't hurt to back up that trust by relying, just a little bit, on a healthy interest in money.

The person who found Chase couldn't have been more clear about what got her attention -- it was the promise of a reward on the tag that made her call. Would she have kept the dog otherwise? We'll never know. My brother gave her some cash, took the dog home and spent the rest of the day patching up the fence. When I got home, I sent the little dog to stay with a friend until I move into the new house, just to be safe.

Putting an ID tag on a pet's collar is one of the easiest and least expensive things you can do to protect your pet. Chase is safe because I did so. Can you say your pets are protected just the same?

PETS ON THE WEB

If your New Year's resolutions include getting your dog to behave better, you'll want to look for help from the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com). The organization is led by those trainers who pioneered reward-based techniques of dog-training, questioning and then largely abandoning older methods that often involved physical punishment. Although the Web page is largely for the association's members, the section for pet owners offers two great resources: a list of recommended books and videos, and referrals to APDT member trainers.

THE SCOOP

A frozen source of water isn't any better than no water at all. If you have outside drinking water for any of the animals in your care, make sure the liquid remains unfrozen during winter. Pet- and farm-supply stores and catalog merchants stock devices for keeping water liquid, from heated bowls to heater coils. They're good investments when it comes to keeping clean, fresh water flowing for your outside pets.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We got a young shepherd mix puppy a few months ago from some people in the neighborhood. He's very loving and playful, but he's protective of his food and his toys, and he doesn't like to be told to get off the furniture. Usually, he just growls, but he is now snapping when we get close to him while he's eating. I'm really worried he might bite our 7-year-old daughter, even though I've warned her to leave him alone when he's eating. My husband wants to find him a new home, but I'm not sure that's the right thing. Any advice? -- B.T., via e-mail

A: First, let me stress that finding a new home for a dog with the potential to bite is absolutely the wrong thing to do. Why would you want to put a time bomb in someone else's home, so someone else can be bitten? How would you feel if you placed the dog in a new home -- maybe one with no children, to make you feel better -- and later learned that a visiting child was severely bitten by this dog? When you have a dog who might bite, you need to assume full responsibility for that animal.

Now, about fixing the problem. I never give specific advice on canine aggression, because in such cases what's needed is hands-on assistance from a veterinary behaviorist, the sooner the better. Advice from someone who's never seen your dog is just too risky when you're talking about a situation as loaded with the potential for injury as this one is.

Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist who can prescribe medications for your dog (if needed) along with a behavioral modification regimen for your family to follow. If your dog isn't neutered, get that done as well. (Most dogs involved in serious attacks are young, unneutered males.) And then follow the doctor's instructions, to the letter. And know that it can take a considerable investment of time to address behavioral problems of this type.

Is all this necessary? When people talk to me about canine aggression, I always suggest they take the following quiz. If they answer any question with a "yes," the next step is to get help.

-- Has your dog ever stared at you with a hard, fixed, glassy-eyed stare that may be accompanied by erect body posture -- stiff legs, ears forward, hackles raised?

-- Do you avoid doing certain things with your dog because they elicit growling or a show of teeth? Are you unable, for example, to approach your dog while he's eating or ask him to get off the couch?

-- Do you make excuses for his aggressive behavior, or figure he'll "grow out of it"?

-- Do you consider your dog "safe" -- except around a particular group of people, such as children or people in uniforms?

-- Has your dog ever bitten anyone, even if it was "only" once and because "it was an accident," "he was scared," "he's usually so good!" or some other equally inexcusable rationalization?

With his growling and snapping, your dog has taken the first steps down a dangerous road. If you don't change his course, someone might get hurt, and your dog might end up having to be put to death for his behavior. Don't delay in getting the help you need to prevent such an outcome.

Q: I just got a yellow-naped Amazon parrot through a newspaper ad. How can I tell if this bird is a boy or a girl? The seller didn't know. -- A.R., via e-mail

A: You'll need the help of a veterinarian to solve this mystery. He'll draw a blood sample, and the laboratory will get the answer from the bird's DNA. Seeing an avian veterinarian is a good idea anyway, to establish (or repair) the health of the bird and review proper care requirements for your new pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It's a New Year's tradition around my home, one that has outlived two generations of pets but still works to help ensure the safety of the animals I live with now.

No, not resolutions, although I make those, too vowing, among other things, to exercise the dogs more, take more time for their training and do more for animals who are not as lucky as mine are.

The tradition I'm talking about is far easier to accomplish. I call the pets over and check their necks.

I always do my "neck checks" around the first of the year. It's easy to remember that way, especially for me, a person who has a hard time remembering much of anything when it comes to appointments: heartworm and flea medications on the first of the month, neck checks the first of the year, annual exams on each pet's birthday. Any variation and I'm hopelessly lost.

The neck check is easy, taking a few minutes to check for wear and fit on the collars, and legibility on the tags.

Consider the collar first. A properly fitted collar is important, but so is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close, but not too snug. Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" or prong collar for everyday wear. These are for training and walking only, and pose a potentially deadly hazard if left on an unsupervised dog.

Cat collars aren't widely accepted because some people fear the collars will get caught on branches and trap the cat. Other people argue that their cat stays indoors and so never needs a collar. If you're sure your cat will never, ever get out, then fine, no collar is necessary. But if your pet has ever slipped out, or might, you ought to reconsider a collar and tag. As for cats being caught by their collars, this is resolved by the simple piece of elastic in most cat collars that enables the pet to slip free of the collar in a pinch.

If you have the right kind of collar on your pet, look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

As for those tags, they need checking, too. A license is great, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- yours and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, order a new tag. I never put the pet's name or my address on the tags. Instead, my pets' tags say "REWARD!" with a collection of phone numbers. I want to get the point

across that I want my pets back quickly.

On my pets I also have the tags of a pet-retrieval service called 1-800-HELP-4-PETS. The service is available 24 hours a day, and can also authorize veterinary care with your credit card if your pet is injured and you cannot be found. The service is $25 per year (www.help4pets.com.).

Don't delay in fixing any problems you find with your pet's neck check. Problems with collars and tags are easy to fix, and these items are the cheapest insurance you can buy against loss or accidents.

PETS ON THE WEB

Lost and Founds Pets USA (www.lostandfoundpet.com) doesn't offer anything fancy, just a simple form to enter information and a simple search tool to look for lost or found pets. The information is divided by state and then by city, so if you're not in a metropolitan area this free service may not be much use to you. But it never hurts to add just one more tool to the mix if you've lost a pet, along with posting fliers, checking shelters and veterinary hospitals and placing classified ads in local newspapers.

THE SCOOP

A microchip is another form of identification well worth adding to the collar and tags for dogs and cats, or as a stand-alone ID for birds. The tiny transponder, about the size of a grain of rice, is inserted by a veterinarian over the shoulder blades of dogs and cats (or into the breast tissue of birds) and serves as a permanent identification that cannot be slipped off or removed.

If you have a microchip implanted in your pet, it's not possible to check for the chip as part of your New Year's neck check. But do make a mental note to ask your veterinarian to scan for it on your next visit. Most veterinarians have hand-held devices that can detect the presence of a chip, and can determine if it has stayed in a spot where it can be found by shelter workers, should your pet ever be lost or stolen.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A while back you asked for ideas on making housekeeping easier. I have put together a doggie potty that enables my older dog to relieve herself indoors. In short, it is a shower pan, lined with a grid mat and placed over a cistern. Initially I trained her to "go" upon request. Then it was just a matter of introducing this convenient place to go as the designated spot. A friend has a purse-sized dog, and she trained it to go in the shower (no water running) lined with a mesh-like grid.

People might think it's unhygienic, but this method could enable a senior in a high-rise building to not have to go out after dark. –- R.L., via e-mail

A: Small dogs have been using indoor potties for years, and as long as you clean up thoroughly afterward (don't forget the disinfectant!), I don't see a problem. Your solution is probably more hygienic than putting newspapers down on the floor, after all.

Indoor bathrooms for dogs have really gained ground in recent years. While the volume of waste produced keeps indoor facilities from being a viable option for large dogs, little dogs can use space indoors with few problems.

I received another letter from a reader who sets up a small plastic wading pool for her small dog to use. In the middle, she has anchored a small upright cat scratching post for her male dog to lift his leg on, thereby keeping him from the sides of the pool, where he might squirt urine over the side. She lines the pool with plastic and fills it with a shallow layer of cat-box filler. It's an ingenious solution, albeit one that requires more room than many people care to give up.

You don't have to make your own canine potty, though, because there are commercial alternatives, most notably one from pet-industry giant Purina. The so-called "secondnature" system includes a litter tray and paper-based filler designed to be acceptable to dogs. You can find out more about it at www.doglitter.com, or by calling (800) 778-7462 during normal business hours, central time. The Web site, not surprisingly, pushes the Purina product, but does include tips that should help with training no matter which kind of indoor potty you have.

Q: I read your column regarding cat fencing, and I wanted to let you know that I just completed my yard with a cat fencing I purchased in a kit. You can see this product at www.catfencein.com. It comes with complete instructions and all material needed.

Cat fencing is not so simple. There must not be any gaps or openings, and I cannot imagine anyone attempting to do this without a kit and instructions. Around gates is especially tricky.

I lost a cat last summer, and it devastated me so badly that I had to find a way to let my cats outside, but not out of the yard. Now the only thing to worry about is the bottom portion of the fence, i.e., broken or missing boards. I walk my yard frequently to check for broken boards. -- D.E., via e-mail

A: Thanks for your letter. I've mentioned Cat Fence-In before, and agree that for many people a kit is a better option. The company can also be reached by phone toll-free at (888) 738-9099. Do-it-yourself or kit, cat fencing is a great idea, keeping your cats from being neighborhood nuisances while protecting them from most of the dangers or roaming free.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of my best friends doesn't practice preventive care with her dogs. She also lets her cats roam the neighborhood (disappearing at the rate of about one a year). She does just about everything with her pets contrary to current advice, right down to feeding her cockatiel nothing but sunflower seeds.

She truly loves her pets, but she insists on following pet-care standards that are at least 20 years out of date.

The bird likes seeds, she says, so what's the harm? Children like candy, I tell her, but you don't let them eat it all day. And then, we agree to disagree, on this point as on all others pet-related. Sometimes you not only can't change the world, but you can't even influence your friends.

If birds love seeds -- and most crave them -- doesn't it follow that they should be eating what they want? Avian veterinarians are pretty consistent in arguing against seeds these days. An all-seed diet will make most birds sick over time, the experts say, denying the pets the nutrients they need for long-term survival and weakening them to the point where other diseases might be able to take hold.

The trend in recent years has been toward pelleted diets, and pet birds are healthier as a result. Pelleted diets are readily available from many reputable manufacturers and can be purchased from any bird shop or from many veterinarians who work with birds.

Pelleted food is a blend of grains, seeds, vegetables, fruits and various other protein sources. Manufacturers mix the ingredients and then either bake and crumble them or extrude them, ending up with pellets of a proper size for any given species (large pellets for large birds, small pellets for small birds).

This process produces a food that is superior to the "smorgasbord" way of feeding -- the bird cannot pick out his favorite foods and ignore the rest. Pellets also are convenient for bird owners. These commercially prepared diets are easy to buy, relatively inexpensive and store nicely in a cool, dry place.

Pelleted foods should be the foundation of your bird's diet -- some 70 percent to 80 percent -- but they're not a good diet on their own. Your bird also needs a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, along with other "people foods" such as pasta, eggs, breads, rice and unsalted nuts in their shells. Excessively fatty foods or overprocessed foods should be avoided, since many pet birds are perch potatoes, prone to obesity. A good rule of thumb: If it's healthy for you, it's good for your bird, too. Do keep pellets and fresh, clean water available at all times.

In addition to rounding out a commercial diet, fruits, nuts and other people food gives your bird something to keep him occupied and entertained. To that end, leave fresh food in as natural a form as possible. Clean it, of course, but make your bird work some to eat it. Corn left on the cob is a great example of good food that also offers a fun challenge to eat.

Do you really need to deny your bird a treat as appreciated as seeds? The phrase "all things in moderation" definitely applies when it comes to seeds. Given in small amounts, seeds are a wonderful way to help teach your bird tricks or to reward him for good behavior. But seeds should be a treat, not a staple, to ensure proper nutrition for your bird.

Birds love seeds, and it's fine to give them now and then. But as a diet for these pets, they are strictly not for the birds at all.

PETS ON THE WEB

Pet birds do not live by food alone -- they need to be kept occupied. The Birdbrain (www.thebirdbrain.com) is one of the best sources for toys and other things to keep your bird busy. Proceeds from their sales go to one of the best bird charities around, the well-respected Colorado-based Gabriel Foundation (www.thegabrielfoundation.org).

The Birdbrain offers all kinds of parrot-related items, from perches to food containers to cleaning supplies, but the toy selection is truly outstanding. The shop breaks them down into categories such as "noisemakers," "foot toys" and "destructible," and will even suggest toys for birds with disabilities. I visited the Gabriel Foundation/Birdbrain in Colorado a few years back, and took home a rather large collection of toys for my Senegal parrot. Great stuff!

THE SCOOP

Although you can find a special thermometer for pets in any pet-supply catalog or well-equipped pet-supply store, you can also use an ordinary glass mercury or digital-readout "people" device from your pharmacy. (If you want to pay more -- around $80 -- you can now get a digital thermometer for pets that reads temperature from the ear canal, very nifty!)

To take your pet's temperature, lubricate the thermometer with petroleum jelly or a water-based lubricant, such as K-Y. Gently and slowly insert the thermometer about one or two inches into your pet's fanny.

Leave the thermometer in place for a couple of minutes. In a normal cat or dog, the temperature should be between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees, and the thermometer should be almost clean after it's removed. Anything much above or below that range is cause for concern, as is any blood or other matter on the thermometer.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I recently had to board my dog. I'm looking at keeping him there for at least three months until my new home is finished. Is that too long? Also, the boarding facility has stated that because of the possible stress, I should keep my visits to the very minimum. Do you agree with this? -- T.R., via e-mail

A: I would rather see your dog with a family for that duration, such as with a friend or relative. Is it possible for someone to do that for you, if you paid the bills? Three months is a long time in a kennel, but if that's your only option, you really haven't much choice.

As for visiting, my advice would depend on the dog. Some dogs have very adaptable, love-the-one-you're-with personalities, and such a dog would probably be fine with visits. The one who'd mope and carry on for days after you left would probably be better off settling into the kennel routine without visits.

I'm dealing with a similar situation, having moved out of one house and waiting for the escrow to close on another. The three dogs and I were living with my brother, but I've had to send my 9-month-old toy spaniel to live with a friend because my brother's fences are old, with lots of places for a small, curious dog to escape. We patched the fence as best we could, but after Chase's second outing I decided it just wasn't safe for him to remain with me now. (My big dogs are neither interested in getting out nor small enough to squeeze through the gaps in the fence line.)

Chase is staying at his Aunt Tami's house for about six weeks in all, and I decided it would be easier on him if I didn't visit. He has settled into his temporary situation well, and I have no doubts he'll do the same when he's back with me in our new home.

Q: My calico cat licks any blanket she can find around the house until it is soaked with kitty spit. I've never had a cat who did this before. What's behind it? -- O.B., via email

A: This condition is called "wool-sucking." Although it's very common in Siamese or other so-called "Oriental" breeds, it's certainly not uncommon in the general cat population. Behaviorists aren't really sure what causes it and aren't sure how to cure it. The best I can offer is some "might help, can't hurt" suggestions.

You should definitely put away anything that's too nice to be damaged. Keep bedrooms off-limits by closing the doors to protect the blankets on the beds.

Set out some "decoy" blankets, and apply a deterrent such Bitter Apple, Tabasco, hot pepper oil, etc. This might break the habit, but maybe not. Spraying fabrics lightly with perfume is also a common recommendation.

Some experts believe that increasing the fiber in the cat's diet may also help. You can do that by adding a little canned pumpkin on a regular basis -- it's also good for hair balls. More activity is also recommended, such as playing with your cat regularly with a cat-fishing-pole toy or other lure object.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600