Recently I spent the weekend in the company of some of the most beautiful cats in the world at the Cat Fanciers' Association annual international show in Houston.

These show cats -- beefy British shorthairs, slender Siamese, kinky-haired rexes and silky Persians, and many more marvelous breeds –- have never known hunger or cold. And I doubt that any have ever felt much fear. Barring a disaster in the lives of their owners, it's hard to imagine that cats at this level of competition will live out their days in anything other than loving, high-quality care.

The CFA knows that such experiences aren't the norm for many cats and has always been good about supporting feline charities. The association is closely tied to the Winn Feline Foundation (www.winnfelinehealth.org), which sponsors important research into feline health. And among the booths at the prestigious international show, the CFA always welcomes volunteers and displays from shelters and rescue groups.

I was feeling pretty good about pretty cats and healthy charities until I bumped into a person who works for a nonprofit animal shelter in a large city, a group with an international reputation for innovation. I asked him how things were at work, expecting to hear of another exciting program in a long string of successes.

He did not offer good news. "We're having layoffs," he said. It wasn't the first time I'd heard such a thing in the last couple of years. Times are tough for charities, even the relatively healthy and wealthy ones. The reasons are many. Some large donations in the '90s came in the form of stocks that are now worth a fraction of their original value. Then, the flood of giving in the wake of the terrorist attacks was concentrated on relief efforts, and money was diverted from thousands of other groups at local, regional and national levels. And now the sluggish economy hasn't exactly spurred charitable giving.

I always suggest that in this season of giving, animal lovers remember to include those groups that care for pets who are not as lucky as our own. That's especially true this year, when so many of these nonprofits are struggling.

Money is always welcome when it comes time to give, of course. You can make a simple donation, or you can buy a membership as a gift for an animal-loving friend or family member. But you don't have to write a check to help.

Groups can often use items you might be throwing away, such as old newspapers or frayed towels. You might also consider buying large bags of pet food or cat litter on sale and donating those. Some groups have thrift stores or occasional tag sales, so you can donate almost any used and still usable -- item for them to sell to raise money. Also appreciated are office supplies such as paper, notebooks and pens.

Some organizations need relatively new computers, scanners, copiers and other office equipment; call to see what their needs are. And while you're at it, ask if they have a "wish list" of big-ticket items they're hoping to get donated, such as building materials or vehicles. Tracking down such items is a wonderful way of volunteering for those who are too tender-hearted to work at the shelter. Depending on your powers of persuasion, you might be able to get needed items donated just by making a phone call or two to area businesses.

It doesn't take much from any one of us to make a big difference. It just takes enough of us to take the time to give, just a bit.

PETS ON THE WEB

Small local charities, with their low overheads and more hands-on programs, usually do more with your donation than large national organizations. With the big boys, you're too often giving to support high salaries and fund-raising programs -- luxuries smaller charities can't afford. (Some national charities pay executive management salaries in excess of a quarter-million dollars, and six-figure salaries are common in some well-known national groups.)

One of the best resources for researching charities large and small is Guidestar (www.guidestar.org), a Web site that puts the financials at your fingertips for free, so you can make an informed decision before writing that check. Hundreds of animal charities are in the Guidestar database, from one-person rescue groups to some of the largest national advocacy groups around. Don't give a dime until you know that you agree with the policies of any group, and are comfortable with how the money is being spent!

THE SCOOP

Recently I got an e-mail from a reader whose dog died a couple of days after being hit by a car. She was grieving for the dog but was also feeling guilty because a veterinarian said her pet probably wouldn't have died if she'd brought him in right after the accident.

The dog had seemed fine just after the accident. He'd taken a hit to his abdomen off the side of a front bumper. He was rolled by the impact but came up wagging his tail. He continued to seem OK for a day or so -- a few cuts and scrapes but nothing that appeared urgent enough to require veterinary attention. What she didn't know: The dog had internal injuries that needed medical attention. By the time she realized there was a problem and got her pet to the emergency clinic, it was too late to save him.

It's surely of little comfort to her to know that such stories are common. But maybe it will help some to save the life of another pet by spreading the word. So remember: If your pet is hit by a car, it's essential to have him checked out by a veterinarian right away.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 10-year-old female yellow Labrador/golden retriever mix. I am strongly considering adopting a male cat at the animal hospital where I work. He is timid, and my dog can be rambunctious. I hope the sex difference won't be a problem. What do you think? -- K.D., via e-mail

A. I don't think gender is an issue at all, but personality types might be. The pairing of a shy cat with a rambunctious dog could work out fine, but it might be a bit of a rough road at the start.

With so many adult cats needing adoption, you might instead consider finding one with a more gregarious personality who is comfortable living with a large dog. Shelters and rescue groups often have the background on those animals they are trying to place, and in lieu of background, may perform personality tests to get an idea on what kind of family will be a good match for any given animal.

If you do go ahead with the timid cat, make sure you take lots of time to help ease him in. Do not force the animals together. Start the cat off in a room of his own, door closed, with food, water, scratching post, litter box and toys. Visit him frequently, but leave the dog out. The cat will be more than aware of the dog's presence through the door.

Eventually, you can replace the closed door with a baby gate. Let the cat choose the speed of exploration: If he wants to stay in the room (or even under the bed) for a month, so be it. Work on keeping your dog in control, with sits, downs and stays, and keep her on leash in the cat's presence during the introduction phase. No chasing allowed, not even in play!

I'd leave the baby gate up for a long time even after the cat ventures out of the room, so he always has a safe place to go where the dog can't follow. You might be able to remove it down the road, when cat and dog settle in and seem comfortable in each other's presence.

Q: My 1-year-old beagle has had all her shots. We just picked her up from a one-week kennel stay. Now she is sneezing all the time. Is this something I should be concerned with? The sneezing has been going on for about five days. It usually happens when she starts to sniff with her nose. -- S.B., via e-mail

A: I'd surely have a veterinarian check things out. Among the possibilities: A foxtail may have gotten up her nose. If you catch a foxtail early, it's a snap for your veterinarian to treat. Let it go, and it can be a daunting proposition for vet, pet and pocketbook alike.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One Christmas Eve many years ago, I decided to kill some time before heading over to a family gathering by cutting the nails on all my dogs. (Yes, I know it's odd, but I'll say in my own defense that the presents were already wrapped and I had nothing else to do.)

Somehow I managed to cut so deeply into one nail that I could not stop the bleeding. So instead of opening presents, I found myself opening my checkbook at the emergency clinic, along with a handful of other pet lovers with timing or luck just as bad as my own. Among them I remember a puppy with parvo, an ancient cat with breathing problems and a dog with ... tapeworms.

The last was hardly an emergency, but the pet's owner didn't know that. She'd seen something come out of her dog that she was convinced was a part of his intestine. The veterinary technician was kind enough to set her straight without charge and with instructions to visit her regular veterinarian after the holidays.

While it might be tempting to snicker at a person who didn't recognize a tapeworm, she was truly doing her pet a service. She thought something was wrong and didn't wait to find out what it was. That's much better than those people who wait to get sick animals treated, even when their pets are clearly in pain.

But how do you know when a situation is critical enough to find a veterinarian immediately? Anything is worth at least a call if you're not sure what's wrong, but some things require urgent attention. Here are some signs that should have you heading for your veterinarian's or for the emergency clinic:

-- Seizure, fainting or collapse.

-- Eye injury, no matter how mild.

-- Vomiting or diarrhea -- anything more than two or three times within an hour or so.

-- Allergic reactions, such as swelling around the face, or hives, most easily seen on the belly.

-- Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, rodent or snail bait or human medication. Cats are especially sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medication for dogs) or any petroleum-based product.

-- Snake or venomous spider bites.

-- Thermal stress -- from being either too cold or too hot -- even if the pet seems to have recovered. (The internal story could be quite different.)

-- Any wound or laceration that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite.

-- Trauma, such as being hit by a car, even if the pet seems fine. (Again, the situation could be quite different on the inside.)

-- Any respiratory problem: chronic coughing, trouble breathing or near drowning.

-- Straining to urinate or defecate.

Although some other problems aren't life threatening, they may be causing your pet pain and should be taken care of without delay. Signs of pain include panting, labored breathing, increased body temperature, lethargy, restlessness, crying out, aggression and loss of appetite. Some pets seek company when suffering, while others will withdraw.

When in doubt, err on the side of caution, always. Better to be dead wrong about a minor medical problem than to have a pet who's dead because you guessed wrong about a major one. Call your veterinary clinic or hospital before you need help and ask what arrangements the staff suggests for emergency or after-hours care. If your veterinarian refers clients to an emergency clinic after regular business hours, be sure you know which clinic, what the phone number is and how to get there.

I got lucky that Christmas Eve with a fast and relatively inexpensive resolution to my pet's emergency, but I'm always aware that next time I might not be so fortunate. Which is why I know whom to call and where to go whenever I need help for my pets. And also why I also have resolved never to clip nails on a holiday again.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Dog Boot Company (www.dogbootcompany.com) is all about keeping canine paws warm, clean and dry through all kinds of weather, with a collection of hard-wearing footwear for dogs of all sizes. Paw protection is not cheap -- four of the short boots will set you back $30, before shipping and handling -- but if you live in a place where snow and slush are part of walking the dog, boots might end up saving you some clean-up time in the house, as well as increased comfort for your dog. The company says the taller boots will stand up to field conditions as well, protecting the legs of hunting dogs from brambles and thorns.

THE SCOOP

Another idea to keep cats out of houseplants comes from reader Sharon Richardson. "During the 40 years my husband and I have been married, we have almost always been owned by a cat or two or more," she writes: "One of my best ideas has been to 'plant' faux greenery under the real plants where cats want to dig. Under a large split leaf philodendron I planted three curly Boston ferns by just sticking them in the soil. You would be surprised how good they look, certainly better than foil and such. The plastic greenery can be pulled out occasionally to be dusted by dunking them in a sinkful of water and dish detergent. Craft stores have a good assortment of plants that will work."

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a question about my dachshund. Her left eye tends to become very dry and will secrete a greenish fluid. My vet gave me an ointment to moisten her eye, but she hates having it put in so much that I think it might sting. My question is: Can I use any of the human, over-the-counter drops for her eyes? -- S.V., via e-mail

A: Whenever a medication your veterinarian gives you doesn't do the trick for any reason, you need to go back for further assistance. Every day I hear from people whose pets are still living with problems that would be treatable if their owners had pursued follow-up care. A medication may need to be stronger, given longer or may need to be changed, decisions that can be made only by a veterinarian.

Since those of use who are not veterinarians are often way off the mark when it comes to a proper diagnosis, I advise that over-the-counter remedies be purchased and used only as part of treatment program recommended by your veterinarian. If you don't know what you're treating, an over-the-counter remedy could be a waste of money, and could possibly do more harm than good.

Q: My wife recently returned after visiting the home of some friends. While there, she evidently picked up some fleas from their dog. We killed one and identified it from pictures. How do we inform the family that their home and dog are infested with fleas? -- G.P., via e-mail

A: This seems more like an etiquette question than a pet question, but I'll blunder ahead anyway. If you think they'll take the news in the helpful spirit in which you offer it, then be frank with them. If you think it would harm the friendship, think up reasons for them to visit in your home -- and leave their dog behind. For the good of their suffering dog, though, I hope you can be honest with them. I used to get questions like yours all the time, along with hundreds of other flea-related pieces of mail. But these days, I don't get many flea questions, thanks to the topical monthly flea-control medications Frontline and Advantage.

The bad old days I do not miss, either as a pet columnist or as a pet keeper. I used to dip my poor dogs in products so vile that they gave me asthma, and were barely effective at keeping the parasites in check. And my own mother, who's very sensitive to flea bites, would neither visit my home nor allow my dogs in hers.

Since the new generation of flea-control remedies came out a few years back, I haven't seen a flea on any of my pets, even when I lived for a few months in Florida, where the warm, moist climate is flea paradise and my dogs swam every day. The new medications stood up to this most difficult of tests.

My mother feels safe in visiting my home these days -- the only danger now is dog kisses. I hope your friends will also catch on to modern flea-control so your wife will be comfortable visiting in their home again and their dog will be spared the misery of the constant torment of these tiny pests.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

I am no fan of Christmas, to the bemusement of my friends and family, who consider my attitude some strange personality quirk. I neither give gifts nor accept them -- aside from an exception I make for my young niece and nephew. And I do my best to avoid malls and other places where the trappings of Christmas are on display from Halloween on.

Christmas is too much stress, too much hustle, too much spending, and I prefer to avoid the January hangover by not imbibing in the season at all. Now that you know how I feel about Christmas, you can imagine how I feel about the idea of giving children a puppy for Christmas. I simply cannot recommend it, and in this aspect of "bah humbug" I am not alone.

Despite the warnings from experts, every year parents give in to the begging of their children and pop for a Christmas puppy. The attraction is understandable: Who doesn't love a puppy, and who wouldn't want to delight a child? But there are reasons why shelters, rescue groups and responsible breeders are uniform in their advice to think twice about a Christmas puppy.

Puppies are not toys. They are living, breathing (not to mention eating and urinating) beings who need a lot of attention. Who has time for a pup during the holidays? With a houseful of guests and a holiday dinner to prepare, who will make sure the puppy isn't being mauled by overly enthusiastic children and guests? Who has time to get his house-training started right?

Let's back up a little and look at another Christmas reality. Many reputable breeders and shelters flat-out won't cooperate with holiday puppy dreams. The sellers who have puppies for Christmas delivery are often motivated by money. Such breeders are less likely to cut into profits with pesky screening for genetic diseases and are less likely to know or care about the importance of early socialization. These attitudes may cost you in the long run, both in dollars and heartbreak.

But say you find the right puppy anyway. It's still a bad time to get a puppy. Try house-training a puppy when it's cold and stormy. Are you really so keen on the idea that you want to be out on winter nights, shivering while a puppy carefully contemplates whether he'd rather sniff or pee?

What about the rest of the training? The first few months of a dog's life are crucial. Bad habits are far easier to prevent than they are to break later. Will you really feel like training your pup when the holidays are over, the days are short and the kids are back in school? And how will you socialize your young dog?

Dogs who grow up unmannered, unsocialized and without house-training often never get a chance to grow up much at all. In the months after Christmas, I get many letters from people who are tearing out their hair over their now-adolescent Christmas puppy. Some people work with the dogs, but many just dump them. You want to find a Christmas puppy? Just check with shelters and rescue groups this summer and fall. You'll find plenty of them, half-grown and waiting for the second chance many will never get.

Dogs can be great for children, and children can be great with dogs. But Christmas is not the best time to launch such a promising relationship. Somebody has to be the grown-up here, and if you're the parent, it should be you. Wait until late spring or early summer to find the perfect pup (or an adult dog, which is a better match for many families), so you can get your new pet off to a great start.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Iguanas for Dummies" author Melissa Kaplan says these

pets are "the No. 1 dumped reptile in the United States and, increasingly, around the world." Further, she notes, the ones who aren't dumped often wind up dead. The problem? Few looking for a "cool pet" are willing to meet the expensive and time-consuming care requirements of the commonly available green iguana. If you're thinking about getting one of these pets, the best thing to do is read, read, read to find out if you have what it takes to care for one. Kaplan's book is a great start, and so is her iguana information Web site (www.anapsid.org/iguana). The site contains hundred of useful articles about the care of these interesting pets.

THE SCOOP

The United Kingdom is finally opening the door to pets from the United States and Canada. Starting Dec. 11, dogs and cats with valid rabies vaccinations and permanent microchip identification will no longer face a six-month quarantine. This is great news for people whose jobs or personal lives require relocation to Britain, a move that previously meant either finding a home for pets before leaving or putting them in miserable confinement for months on arrival. The change is the result of a long campaign by some big-name pet lovers, including celebrity jet-setters such as actress and model Liz Hurley, who complained at not being able to take her pets with her when traveling.

Pet lovers can now hope that Hawaii, which still insists on 30- or 120-day quarantines, will follow the U.K.'s lead and let science, not fear, guide the laws in this area.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My mother read one of your columns recently where you described some sort of device or product that was used to keep cats within a certain yard area. Unfortunately, not being a cat person, my mom can't seem to recall any details other than that. Does it ring a bell? I'm moving soon and am concerned about keeping my three cats near the house to avoid seemingly inevitable encounters with cars and other animals. -- A.R., via e-mail

A: Cat fencing works on the principle that cats can't stand unsteady material under their paws. Using loose netting with lots of "give" convinces cats that they're better leaving the fence alone and staying put. The main ingredient of cat fencing is 1-by-1-inch garden mesh, a polypropylene net product available at nurseries, hardware stores or by mail. On a low fence, such as a 4-foot chain-link, 7-foot poles are used to rig the net high enough to thwart any jumping. On 6-foot wooden privacy fences, flagpole-mounting hardware keeps the net screen at an angle, low and out of sight. Fishing line is used liberally between poles as the top "frame" for the netting.

The feral cat advocacy group Alley Cat Allies says cats will usually spend a couple of weeks trying to figure a way out before deciding there's no place like home. Although many cats can and do live healthy and happy lives indoors, if your pets are among those who won't give up the outdoors, cat fencing is certainly worthy of consideration. I'm for anything that keeps cats safe and neighbors happy. Remember, though, that the fencing likely won't deter any predators -- such as coyotes -- who consider a well-fed cat to be an easy meal.

Complete instructions, including sources for the netting and other materials, are on the Web at www.feralcat.com/fence.html.

Q: I would like to take my dog to dog parks, but she is aggressive to other dogs. Ginger can't even walk past the park without showing signs of aggression. If she sees another dog when we're walking she will bark and growl. All other times she is as docile as a lamb. What can we do so we can all go on walks and to the dog park without having a problem? -- E.L., via e-mail

A: A couple of months ago I got a letter and a photo from a reader whose dog had been ripped open in a dog park by a dog with known aggressive tendencies. The victim lived, but the incident was horrifying and expensive. (The people with the aggressive dog disappeared, never even offering to help with the veterinary bills.)

The picture was stomach-turning to view, a post-surgical snapshot of a dog who clearly was suffering, with more stitches than Frankenstein had needed to close numerous gaping wounds.

All of which is my not-so-subtle way of saying: If you know your dog is aggressive toward other dogs, you should not bring her into an off-leash dog park. By working with a trainer, you can gain some control over her while you're walking, and may even be able to take the edge off the worst signs of her aggression. But I do not believe she will ever be trustworthy enough to take a chance on her in a dog park. The risk of injury is just too high.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600