I am no fan of Christmas, to the bemusement of my friends and family, who consider my attitude some strange personality quirk. I neither give gifts nor accept them -- aside from an exception I make for my young niece and nephew. And I do my best to avoid malls and other places where the trappings of Christmas are on display from Halloween on.

Christmas is too much stress, too much hustle, too much spending, and I prefer to avoid the January hangover by not imbibing in the season at all. Now that you know how I feel about Christmas, you can imagine how I feel about the idea of giving children a puppy for Christmas. I simply cannot recommend it, and in this aspect of "bah humbug" I am not alone.

Despite the warnings from experts, every year parents give in to the begging of their children and pop for a Christmas puppy. The attraction is understandable: Who doesn't love a puppy, and who wouldn't want to delight a child? But there are reasons why shelters, rescue groups and responsible breeders are uniform in their advice to think twice about a Christmas puppy.

Puppies are not toys. They are living, breathing (not to mention eating and urinating) beings who need a lot of attention. Who has time for a pup during the holidays? With a houseful of guests and a holiday dinner to prepare, who will make sure the puppy isn't being mauled by overly enthusiastic children and guests? Who has time to get his house-training started right?

Let's back up a little and look at another Christmas reality. Many reputable breeders and shelters flat-out won't cooperate with holiday puppy dreams. The sellers who have puppies for Christmas delivery are often motivated by money. Such breeders are less likely to cut into profits with pesky screening for genetic diseases and are less likely to know or care about the importance of early socialization. These attitudes may cost you in the long run, both in dollars and heartbreak.

But say you find the right puppy anyway. It's still a bad time to get a puppy. Try house-training a puppy when it's cold and stormy. Are you really so keen on the idea that you want to be out on winter nights, shivering while a puppy carefully contemplates whether he'd rather sniff or pee?

What about the rest of the training? The first few months of a dog's life are crucial. Bad habits are far easier to prevent than they are to break later. Will you really feel like training your pup when the holidays are over, the days are short and the kids are back in school? And how will you socialize your young dog?

Dogs who grow up unmannered, unsocialized and without house-training often never get a chance to grow up much at all. In the months after Christmas, I get many letters from people who are tearing out their hair over their now-adolescent Christmas puppy. Some people work with the dogs, but many just dump them. You want to find a Christmas puppy? Just check with shelters and rescue groups this summer and fall. You'll find plenty of them, half-grown and waiting for the second chance many will never get.

Dogs can be great for children, and children can be great with dogs. But Christmas is not the best time to launch such a promising relationship. Somebody has to be the grown-up here, and if you're the parent, it should be you. Wait until late spring or early summer to find the perfect pup (or an adult dog, which is a better match for many families), so you can get your new pet off to a great start.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Iguanas for Dummies" author Melissa Kaplan says these

pets are "the No. 1 dumped reptile in the United States and, increasingly, around the world." Further, she notes, the ones who aren't dumped often wind up dead. The problem? Few looking for a "cool pet" are willing to meet the expensive and time-consuming care requirements of the commonly available green iguana. If you're thinking about getting one of these pets, the best thing to do is read, read, read to find out if you have what it takes to care for one. Kaplan's book is a great start, and so is her iguana information Web site (www.anapsid.org/iguana). The site contains hundred of useful articles about the care of these interesting pets.

THE SCOOP

The United Kingdom is finally opening the door to pets from the United States and Canada. Starting Dec. 11, dogs and cats with valid rabies vaccinations and permanent microchip identification will no longer face a six-month quarantine. This is great news for people whose jobs or personal lives require relocation to Britain, a move that previously meant either finding a home for pets before leaving or putting them in miserable confinement for months on arrival. The change is the result of a long campaign by some big-name pet lovers, including celebrity jet-setters such as actress and model Liz Hurley, who complained at not being able to take her pets with her when traveling.

Pet lovers can now hope that Hawaii, which still insists on 30- or 120-day quarantines, will follow the U.K.'s lead and let science, not fear, guide the laws in this area.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My mother read one of your columns recently where you described some sort of device or product that was used to keep cats within a certain yard area. Unfortunately, not being a cat person, my mom can't seem to recall any details other than that. Does it ring a bell? I'm moving soon and am concerned about keeping my three cats near the house to avoid seemingly inevitable encounters with cars and other animals. -- A.R., via e-mail

A: Cat fencing works on the principle that cats can't stand unsteady material under their paws. Using loose netting with lots of "give" convinces cats that they're better leaving the fence alone and staying put. The main ingredient of cat fencing is 1-by-1-inch garden mesh, a polypropylene net product available at nurseries, hardware stores or by mail. On a low fence, such as a 4-foot chain-link, 7-foot poles are used to rig the net high enough to thwart any jumping. On 6-foot wooden privacy fences, flagpole-mounting hardware keeps the net screen at an angle, low and out of sight. Fishing line is used liberally between poles as the top "frame" for the netting.

The feral cat advocacy group Alley Cat Allies says cats will usually spend a couple of weeks trying to figure a way out before deciding there's no place like home. Although many cats can and do live healthy and happy lives indoors, if your pets are among those who won't give up the outdoors, cat fencing is certainly worthy of consideration. I'm for anything that keeps cats safe and neighbors happy. Remember, though, that the fencing likely won't deter any predators -- such as coyotes -- who consider a well-fed cat to be an easy meal.

Complete instructions, including sources for the netting and other materials, are on the Web at www.feralcat.com/fence.html.

Q: I would like to take my dog to dog parks, but she is aggressive to other dogs. Ginger can't even walk past the park without showing signs of aggression. If she sees another dog when we're walking she will bark and growl. All other times she is as docile as a lamb. What can we do so we can all go on walks and to the dog park without having a problem? -- E.L., via e-mail

A: A couple of months ago I got a letter and a photo from a reader whose dog had been ripped open in a dog park by a dog with known aggressive tendencies. The victim lived, but the incident was horrifying and expensive. (The people with the aggressive dog disappeared, never even offering to help with the veterinary bills.)

The picture was stomach-turning to view, a post-surgical snapshot of a dog who clearly was suffering, with more stitches than Frankenstein had needed to close numerous gaping wounds.

All of which is my not-so-subtle way of saying: If you know your dog is aggressive toward other dogs, you should not bring her into an off-leash dog park. By working with a trainer, you can gain some control over her while you're walking, and may even be able to take the edge off the worst signs of her aggression. But I do not believe she will ever be trustworthy enough to take a chance on her in a dog park. The risk of injury is just too high.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets: feeding problems, foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning.

The bad news is that many pets will end up at the veterinarian's office this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these potential disasters:

-- Feeding problems. How can you not slip your pet a little something special, a big piece of turkey skin, a handful of chips with dip, some slices of salami? Resist, or your pet could be spending his holiday at the emergency veterinary clinic.

Foods too rich, too fatty or too spicy -- or anything your pet is not accustomed to -- can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestines, and that means a life-threatening medical emergency.

What to avoid? Anything you wouldn't eat your pet should avoid, too. While a little bit of meat -- beef or poultry -- won't hurt and would be appreciated, steer clear of the fatty parts and the poultry skin, which also harbors fat. No one's saying your pet shouldn't enjoy a special holiday meal, too, but limiting the kind and amount of special food will ensure that it is a treat -- not a trouble.

-- Foreign-body ingestion. Poultry bones may seem like the perfect gift for the pet who has everything, but do him a favor and save them for the soup. (Broth is a wonderful treat poured over your pet's regular food.) Even the largest cooked turkey bones are prone to splintering, sending shards through the animal's intestines. The result can be deadly peritonitis.

While cooked poultry bones are out, some beef bones can be safely substituted. Knuckle bones (for large dogs) and oxtails (for small ones) stand up to vigorous gnawing, providing your pet with hours of messy fun. Check at your meat counter for these inexpensive treats. Supervise your dog's chewing, and throw them out after a few hours of attention, or if they get broken into pieces that can be swallowed.

Some dogs prefer to eat bones rather than just chew on them. And if you have one of those dogs, keep an eye out to make sure the bones aren't causing internal problems. A pulverized bone can solidify like concrete in an animal's lower intestine, causing constipation and, occasionally, blockage that must be removed by a veterinarian.

The Christmas tree is also full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths and stomachs of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can, at the very least, cause a stomachache. Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat that climbs in its branches. The best way to handle the situation is by making the tree off-limits to your pets unless you're there to watch and keep them out of trouble.

-- Poisonings. Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.) And before you share your holiday candy with your pet, be aware that chocolate is toxic to dogs, and may be deadly to the little dog who gets a good-sized piece. Again, the best cure is prevention. Keep all dangerous plants out of the reach of your pets, and keep the candy dish available to people only.

It doesn't take much to keep your pet out of trouble this holiday season, if you use just a little common sense. Instead of seeing your veterinarian in person with a sick pet in tow, send a card!

PETS ON THE WEB

The folks behind the Daily Drool (www.dailydrool.com) love basset hounds, and want to share their admiration of the breed with other like-minded people. The well-designed Web site offers everything you could want in the way of information about bassets, along with plenty of entertaining diversions such as e-cards, images and more.

What's the best way to get a basset hound into a vehicle? With a ramp, says the Drool, which offers downloadable directions on how to make one. A definite labor of love, the Web site supports itself and basset rescue through donations and by the proceeds of steering people toward Drool-endorsed books and other products. Either way, it's a good site to support, and a good cause, too.

THE SCOOP

Winterizing your car or truck? Make sure when you're taking care of your vehicle that you're also watching out for your pet. The worry? Coolant made from ethylene glycol, a sweet-tasting liquid that can be lethal to your pet in dosages as small as a teaspoon or less. Safer alternatives exist to ethylene glycol, such as coolant made from propylene glycol. No matter what you use, though, be sure to clean up any spills promptly and thoroughly, and keep any stored product in leak-proof containers in a closed cupboard. If your pet laps even the smallest amount of coolant, see your veterinarian immediately. Your pet's only shot at survival is prompt treatment, since it takes barely a sip to kill.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm a part-time dad, and I got my kids a golden retriever puppy so they can have the dog they've always wanted. (My ex doesn't like dogs.) The problem is, I can't get Dusty to quit biting when she plays. She doesn't mean to hurt but her constant mouthing is really annoying to me and sometimes painful to my kids. What should I do? -- N.L., via e-mail

A: If you watch a litter of puppies play with each other, you might be surprised at how rough they can be. As puppies grow older, they learn from their littermates and their mother how to restrain those playful bites, which is one reason why it's so important to leave a puppy with his canine family until he's at least 7 weeks of age.

Some puppies don't get this critical early education, and some others are just slow learners. Others still are from breeds that are known to be "mouthier" than others -- retrievers are the classic example.

You can teach your puppy to keep her teeth to herself by attacking the problem from a couple of different directions. The first would be to redirect the behavior, giving your puppy a yummy toy and praising her for chewing on something that's not a family member.

Even as you're teaching the puppy what's OK to mouth, teach her how to leave family members unchewed by making the nipping unrewarding. Every time the puppy nips, cry "ouch" in a loud voice and immediately stop the play session. Turn away and ignore the puppy completely for a few minutes. Teach your kids to do the same thing.

The message to get across: Play stops when she nips. If you're persistent and consistent, your puppy will get the message and will learn to inhibit her bites. It will also help if you make sure she's getting plenty of exercise, because sometimes dogs who don't get enough get too wound up when finally they're offered the chance to play.

If the behavior doesn't show any sign of easing, or if the biting seems more aggressive than playful, don't delay in asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or trainer.

Q: After losing my parakeet last year to old age, I'm now thinking of getting a cockatiel. My parakeet was in a cage that was pretty large. Will that be OK for the new bird? –- K.C., via e-mail

A: The general rule of thumb is that at a minimum you should get a cage that's sold for the next size up from your bird -- so a parakeet should get a cockatiel cage, a cockatiel a cage sized for a small parrot and so on. Really, you can't get a cage that's too large, as long as the bars are not spaced so far apart that your bird can get out.

Why the extra size? Because it's boring stuck in a cage all the time, and a larger cage equipped with a rotating supply of toys and other diversions will help keep your bird in good mental health.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Cruising garage sales years ago, I ran across a woman plucking tired houseplants from decorative containers she intended to sell. The friend who was with me took pity on a discarded vine and took it home wrapped in a damp paper towel.

She pinched back its damaged parts, planted it in a new pot, and today that vine thrives in her bright kitchen, its limbs running along the top of her cabinets for nearly 20 feet. Even more amazing: That plant, like many others, shares its home with cats who seem to believe the destruction of everything green is part of their reason for being.

Over the years, my friend has cared for plenty of houseplants and cats. Her secrets to success: Give the cats some plants of their own and make the other plants less attractive. And don't sweat the occasional chewed leaves or knocked-over pot. It's good advice, and the best way to keep both your cats and your houseplants happy.

Give your cat some plants for nibbling, some for sniffing and some for play. For chewing, always keep a pot of tender grass seedlings -- rye, alfalfa and wheat -- growing in a sunny spot. Parsley and thyme are herbs that many cats enjoy smelling and chewing, and both can be grown indoors. Try some different varieties, especially with the parsley.

Catnip is a natural for any cat garden, but the herb is so appealing to some cats that they just won't leave it alone. Keep seedlings out of reach of your pet, or the plant may never get a chance to reach maturity. Once you've got a mature plant, snip off pieces to give your cat, stuff into toys or rub on cat trees. Catnip can't hurt your pet, so let him get as blissed out as he wants. Don't be surprised, however, if catnip has no effect at all: The ability to enjoy the herb is genetic, and some cats do not possess the "catnip gene."

Valerian is another plant that some cats find blissful, so be sure to plant some of this herb, too. When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from yours. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets for chewing, digging or knocking asunder, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet, hang them.

For the plants that you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating leaves with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to enforce the point.

Once your cat learns the leaves aren't so tasty, you can teach him that dirt isn't for digging and pots aren't for tipping. Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil.

You can also deter your cat from approaching pots by using carpet runners around the plants, with the pointy-side up. Commercial products such as the Scat Mat also work well, giving off a small electric charge (like a carpet shock) to the pet who steps where he shouldn't.

Whatever tool or combination of tools you choose, remember that the most important ones are patience and compromise. Give your cat the greens he wants and make the rest less attractive to him. A lush indoor garden is within the reach of any animal lover.

I've always envied my friend her skills with plants -- my own houseplants die with frightening regularity, aside from one very stubborn and grand ficus tree -- but I share her dedication to compromise for the good of her pets. It's the key to any successful relationship, after all.

PETS ON THE WEB

While most people know that dogs have long been used to pull sleds -- an occupation now turned popular canine sport -- few realize that in many places dogs once pulled carts as well, working as sort of a poor man's horse.

Around the turn of the last century, cars and world wars doomed some breeds developed to pull carts, but many breeds with drafting roots remain today, some because their fanciers refused to let them die out, and others because the dogs also served as farm and home protection.

Today, carting is making a bit of a comeback, with fanciers of these ancient breeds fitting them with harnesses and training them to reclaim their heritage for the fun of it. The Carting With Your Dog Web site (www.cartingwithyourdog.com) is a good place to check out what these folks are up to, with plenty of pictures, articles on training and outfitting a dog to pull a cart or wagon, and links to equipment suppliers.

THE SCOOP

Some plants are simply too dangerous to be in any household that includes pets, even if you're pretty sure your pet isn't a chewer. A good list of toxic plants is available on the Web site of the Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc), and I've also put one in the references section of my book "Cats for Dummies," which is available in many libraries. (One plant you won't find on either list is that holiday favorite, the poinsettia, commonly and incorrectly thought to be lethal to pets.) Remove those plants on the toxic list and replace them with more pet-friendly varieties.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have two cats (2-year-old littermate sisters) who love the outdoors. I do not let them out, but I am trying to train them on harnesses and leashes so I can take them outside safely. I finally got them used to wearing the harness, but when I put the leash on, they won't budge. Is there a book that will give me pointers on cat-leash training? Thanks for any help. I want my girls to be happy. -- D.B., via e-mail

A: You never walk a cat like a dog. With cats, it's more like they walk themselves, and you just sort of follow. Train them not by making them walk, but rather by having them drag the leash (in the house, under supervision) while you reward them with treats.

Or give up on the leash idea entirely. Since your girls like the outdoors, you might try offering them a taste of it by giving them access to a screened porch or an otherwise secure area. You might also add a perching area to the windowsill, leaving the screened area open in good weather.

Q: At the pet store where we buy our bird's food, antibiotics are also for sale. Would it be a good idea to keep some on hand in case our bird gets sick? -- D.F., via e-mail

A: Antibiotics are one of the outstanding contributions of modern medicine and have saved countless lives of both the human and animal variety. But we have become so comfortable with these medicines and their frequent usage that we sometimes forget they are powerful drugs that should be used with care.

And yet, many bird lovers respond to any sign of illness by dosing -- and often overdosing -- their pets with antibiotics commonly available at pet-supply stores (and often labeled for other pets, such as fish). This sort of treatment for your sick bird is a bad idea for several reasons.

First, if your bird has a viral or fungal infection, an antibiotic will not help. And in the case of a fungal infection, it may even worsen your bird's condition.

Second, not all antibiotics are the same. They each have their target bacteria, and they may little affect any bacteria they're not designed to combat as well as bacteria that are resistant to them.

Finally, regular use of antibiotics may hurt your bird's immune system and may lead to the development of antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria that will be hard to stamp out even with the "right" medication.

When your bird is sick, your time and money would be better spent getting an accurate diagnosis and targeted treatment from an avian-experienced veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600