Is it possible to have pets and a clean house? You bet it is! When I asked for cleaning tips a couple of columns ago, I heard from readers who manage to keep things neat with some creativity and not all that much extra effort. The common themes from the responses:

-- Choose flooring and upholstery that are easy to clean and keep clean, ban pets from areas with less pet-friendly furnishings or cover those furnishings with washable throws.

-- Get on pet stains right away, with as much gusto as you can. A stain delayed is a stain set for good.

-- In terms of flooring, readers raved over tile, wood laminates (like Pergo) or linoleum.

-- Carpets? Bad news. And one reader summed it up for many pet lovers by wondering what to put in once the carpet comes out.

"My carpets would send any sane person to run screaming in horror from my floors," writes Rochele Smith. "Light beige ... so filthy I can hardly bear to walk across the floor. Just had them professionally cleaned for the umpteenth time and they were dirty again within a week." Smith wasn't interested in tile because she felt it would be too cold, but other readers got around that problem with the use of area or throw rugs, which are also easier to remove for cleaning.

That's my solution, by the way. Although I lust for Pergo, I make do with the original hardwoods in my 60-year-old home, with washable throw rugs placed here and there for color and warmth. Pet hair comes up pretty easily with a broom followed by a swipe from one of those new damp-cloth-on-a-stick devices, such as the Swiffer.

Some readers with carpets swore by brand-name products such as Nature's Miracle or Anti-Icky-Poo. The latter may be one of the dopiest names ever invented, but the product is recommended by many behaviorists and veterinarians, and endorsed enthusiastically by several readers. Others use generic household products to clean pet mess from carpet, such as white vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and soap in various combinations.

"First get rid of the solid mess, then mix one-quarter cup white vinegar with one quart of very hot water. Then, using a dry cloth (preferably the same color as your carpet), scrub the area with this mixture several times, but without getting the carpet soggy," writes Laurie Heidinger, who notes that her technique is not only effective, but also inexpensive. "It works every time for me, both getting rid of the smell and the stains. I learned this clean-up tip for any kind of animal mess from a professional carpet cleaner."

Other readers swear by wet-dry vacuums, and steam cleaners of both the larger and hand-held varieties. For furniture, the recommendations were similar -– when possible, get upholstery that stands up to pets; otherwise use washable covers to protect your furniture.

The best upholstery, by a fairly wide consensus, is leather, the higher the quality the better. Pet fur, stains and odor find no home on good leather, which wipes clean with a damp cloth. If leather doesn't appeal, cover your furniture with washable throws. A few readers recommended baby blankets or old linens, but I've had the best experience buying attractive covers made for this purpose. The ones I have are from Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com), but I've also seen comparable products from catalogs such as Orvis (www.orvis.com). I've had my set for almost three years, and they still look great after countless washings.

I'll have more tips in the next column, including readers' suggestions for how to train pets to help keep things neater.

PETS ON THE WEB

Make no mistake, Michele Welton is trying to sell her book through her Web site (www.yourpurebredpuppy.com). But unlike a lot of promotional Web sites, this one offers tons of good information on dog breeds, breeders and much, much more. Such as profiles on all American Kennel Club breeds, plus a couple dozen more. Such as information on how to find a good breeder, why you should avoid other puppy sources, and how to choose the right pup from a litter of healthy, well-bred animals.

Some of her information is controversial, such as her distaste for commercial pet foods and her belief in holistic pet care, but her information on choosing a breed, finding a breeder and selecting a puppy is flawless. Her book, "Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer's Guide," is now in its second edition, and remains one of the titles I recommend most often. (In fact, there's an endorsement quote from me on the site, from a review I wrote of the first edition of the book more than 10 years ago.)

THE SCOOP

There are better ways of training a pet than with physical punishment, and with no animal is this more true than with a cat. Hitting a cat is counterproductive –- instead of teaching your pet what you want, you'll teach your pet that you're a big, dangerous bully. That's not going to create a loving relationship with your pet, and it may lead to your ending up with a cat who bites or scratches out of fear and self-defense. Train your cat through positive reinforcement methods –- reward good behaviors with treats and affection, and with setting up situations that help to train the cat, such as keeping the litter box clean and in a place where the cat feels safe and comfortable using it.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband is interested in getting a blue-and-gold macaw. I'm not in favor of this for several reasons, the most significant being that I'm afraid of big parrots. I also know that they're noisy and messy. And, I also figure that since my husband is almost 60 and I'm considerably younger (42), I'll also end up with a bird I never wanted after my husband dies, since I've read that macaws can live for decades. I have two questions for you: First, how long is a bird like this likely to live? And second, how can I convince my husband that a cat would make a much more sensible pet? –- B.W., via e-mail

A: Generally speaking, the larger the parrot, the longer the life span. The larger of the macaws -– such as the blue-and-gold and the scarlet -– can live to be 50, 60 even 70 years of age. Some live to be even older: My "Birds For Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, had, as a patient, a scarlet macaw who had been sold as a wild-caught adult in an Oakland, Calif., pet store in the early 1920s. The bird was at least 75 when he died, and maybe years older.

Since I'm guessing your husband isn't interested in getting a cat instead of a bird, what if the two of you compromised on a smaller, quieter, less messy bird with a shorter life span? Although almost all parrots live longer than a cat or a dog, there are a few who aren't very long-lived when compared to the macaws.

Among the relatively easy-keepers with life spans of around 20 years are the cockatiel, many varieties of parakeet and the lovebird. Some birds with longer life spans but relatively easy to live with personalities include the Senegal and Pionus parrots, both of which are known to be relatively quiet and gentle.

You may find one of these smaller parrots less frightening, and find yourself becoming quite charmed by their endearing personalities. But if you remain opposed to getting any bird, it would be better if you didn't get one at all. My experience is that if one-half of a couple is dead-set against a pet, that pet will end up looking for a new home in short order.

Q: We just adopted a cat from the humane society. She is a combination of solid gold, black and white with some tiger stripes on her arms. The shelter described her as a tortie, then changed it to calico. What is the difference between a calico and a tortie, or are they the same? Do the terms calico and tortie refer to a breed or a color? –- E.P., via e-mail

A: Calico and tortoiseshell (or tortie) refer to a pattern of markings, not to a breed. The link between them is orange fur, which can run from a very pale tan to a bright, rich rust. The two marking patterns are genetically similar, but differ in the way they are expressed on the cat. On calico cats the orange, black and white colors are distinct patches; on tortoiseshells the colors are swirled together. Since you describe the patches as solid, your cat is likely more calico than anything else, with some tabby genes thrown into the mix for good measure (because of the striping).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The following story is true. The names have been changed to protect the innocent, by which I mean me, because the not-so-innocent will kill me if I hold my brother up for public disapproval. Let's call the man involved "John" and the dog "Spot."

So my brother John calls with a dog problem. Spot, adopted at the age of 1 year, is a wonderful dog, but if he gets out the front door, he bolts. The first time this happened, John explained, he chased the dog for blocks and finally cornered him. And what did he do at the moment of joyous reunion?

"I spanked him," said John.

To be fair, John's reaction is fairly typical. It's easy to become annoyed at a dog who has led you on a merry chase, making you look the fool in front of neighbors and passers-by. And no doubt it not only seems to make sense, but it also sure as heck feels right to paddle the pet. Besides, he'll learn that way, right?

Wrong. Punishing a dog for running from you is one surefire way to make sure he's even harder to catch the next time. Wouldn't you keep running if you knew you'd get spanked when caught? Of course you would. And that leads to the No. 1 rule of catching a loose dog: Never punish a dog for running away, and never, ever punish a dog for coming to you.

Actually, that's rule No. 2. The first rule is to make sure your dog understands what you mean when you say "come." And that involves training. Teaching the "come" call is easy, in theory. Put your dog on a sit-stay on leash, call his name, say "come," and reel him in with praise and treats (and more praise and treats when he gets to you).

So how come the majority of dog owners have to cross their fingers when they call their dogs? One of the reasons is that their dogs fear being caught, as Spot does, but there are a couple of others. And sometimes more than one reason applies.

Perhaps the dog doesn't really know the command. Few people practice the recall as much as they should, even though it's the one command that can save a dog's life. You probably use "sit" a half-dozen times a day around the house, but you probably never say "come" when you want your dog to come to you in the house. You probably just use his name. So how is he to know?

"Come" is also about respect, and your dog may not have any for you. "Come" is where all that work in training and developing the relationship with your dog pays off. A dog who thoroughly understands what's expected of him and respects you is going to mind. A dog who knows you're not a deity but a friendly flat-foot who couldn't catch a bus is going to treat you like the dope he thinks you are.

How to fix this? Train your dog to come in increments, on-leash and on longer leashes and lighter lines still. Practice in different places, large and small, both quiet and full of distractions. Get a trainer's help if you need to. Never let your dog figure out that you can't do much about it when he bolts. Practice, not just with formal training but in everyday life.

But what about the untrained dog, like Spot? If your dog takes off on you, kneel down and open your arms when calling to make yourself more inviting. If that doesn't work, try to use a command he knows well like "sit" instead of "come." Most dogs know "sit" so well that they'll plant their rumps, and once they're planted, you might be able to walk up and take their collars. Another possibility is to catch your dog's attention and run in the other direction, enticing him to follow you. The chase instinct is very strong in dogs, and it may well work.

Remember, a loose-dog situation is not about dog training, but about dog saving. When you have your dog safely on leash, praise him, be grateful, and make a vow that you'll take the time to teach him this most important of commands. Because next time he's out, you may not be so lucky to get him back in one piece.

PETS ON THE WEB

Community is the focus of the Pet Hobbyist (www.pethobbyist.com), a site that offers pet lovers of all kinds a chance to talk to others through bulletin boards and chat rooms. Pet Hobbyist got an infusion of expertise when the Veterinary Information Network (www.vin.com) brought Veterinary Partners (www.veterinarypartners.com) online, closed its Pet Care Forum and sent the community to Pet Hobbyist. I have long-standing relationships with all parties, I must acknowledge: VIN chief Dr. Paul Pion is my "Cat For Dummies" co-author and friend, and I'm also good friends with Christie Keith, who now works for Pet Hobbyist. The split between the Web sites was friendly, and pets and those who love them will continue to benefit from the information these Internet pioneers continue to provide.

THE SCOOP

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outdoor outing on leash, but for this treat, you need a harness. Choose one designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-eight design. Walking a cat isn't about heeling like a dog, but rather consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended. This leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Can you please explain how to put on a choke collar properly? I'm tired of seeing people walking their dogs with it on wrong. -- C.N., via e-mail

A: With the dog sitting on your left, make a downward facing "P" out of the collar, with the base of the letter on your side. Then slip the collar over the dog's head. The moving end of the collar should go over the dog's neck,

not under it. If it's put on incorrectly, the collar will not release easily when the leash is slackened.

The choke collar is one of the most difficult pieces of training equipment to use properly, which is why I now discourage its use. Newer products such as head halters are easier to use and provide control with less strain on the dog.

Q: I remember you wrote a while back about something to get rid of skunk smell. I thought I'd saved it, but couldn't find it last week when our Lab got hit. We tried tomato juice, which my husband had heard worked well, and ended up with a reddish-yellow dog who still smelled pretty bad. Would you please share the recipe again? We sure need it! –- S.L., via e-mail

A: As reported in the Chicago Tribune several years ago, a chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum discovered what turns out to be the hands-down best solution for eliminating odor on dogs who've been skunked. I like to give the man credit when I share his discovery, because there's no way he'll ever make any money for saving the noses of countless grateful pet lovers.

Why not? It's because the ingredients are cheap and can be found in any grocery store, and cannot be mixed in advance, or the container you seal them in will explode from the pressure of the chemical reaction. So, you'll

never find a bottle of "Dr. Krebaum's Miracle Skunk-B-Gon" on the shelf in your nearest pet-supply store.

Here's the formula: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Then, rinse thoroughly with tap water. For a big dog like your Labrador, you might double the recipe to improve coverage. Common sense dictates keeping the mix out of sensitive areas like the eyes and ears.

Obviously, you don't want to be taking the time to run for the store when you've got a stinky dog, so buy the ingredients now to keep them on hand. But remember –- don't mix. Hydrogen peroxide is a good thing to have around anyway, since it induces vomiting in a dog or puppy who might have eaten something toxic. Be sure to replace your bottle at least once a year, though, because the stuff seems to lose its kick over time.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The best way to keep from losing your pet permanently is to make sure he never becomes lost at all. And when it comes to pet birds, that ounce of prevention is worth even more than a pound of cure.

That's because birds have wings that make them almost impossible to catch once they've escaped. They can disappear completely, quickly traveling miles away from home. Or they remain tantalizingly close but just out of reach, in the high limbs of nearby trees.

The best thing you can do to keep your bird with you is to remove the power of those wings from the equation: Make sure that flight feathers are trimmed on a regular basis.

Birds with properly trimmed wings have a better chance of being caught if they do manage to escape. Trimmed wings also protect birds from potentially lethal indoor hazards, such as flying into ceiling fans or pots of boiling water.

Just as important as getting wings trimmed regularly is having them trimmed properly. A bird with properly trimmed wings should be able to fly gently downward to a safe landing, but not have the ability to fly up and away. Wings that aren't trimmed right can allow a bird to escape, or can cause psychological problems that stem from a fear of falling like a stone.

If you don't know how to trim your pet's wings, you have two choices: Have it done for you, by an expert at a veterinary office or bird shop, or have an expert show you how and then watch you do it until you're competent at the task. Either way, don't neglect this important aspect of caring for your bird.

So what should you do if your bird does get loose? Here are some tips that may help get your pet back.

-- Put fliers around your neighborhood, as well as at all veterinary hospitals, shelters and pet-supply stores in the area. Let local bird clubs know, too. Also contact all avian veterinarians in as large a region as you can -- a list can be found at the Association of Avian Veterinarians Web site (www.aav.org). Place an ad in your city's newspaper and in any community publications. It's probably a good idea to offer a reward as well, especially if your bird is of one of the flashy and expensive species.

-- Use knowledge of bird behavior to locate your pet. It's easier to find birds at just before dawn and just after dusk, when they are settled in one place and vocalizing. Enlist friends and neighbors to listen for parrot calls at that time.

-- If your bird is lingering nearby, set the cage out in your yard, and put food both on top of it and inside it. A bird may relish the chance to go home, once he realizes how thin the pickings are on the outside. You may also be able to keep him near by putting food on your roof, or putting his cage there. Be sure to check the cage frequently. Once he returns to the habit of eating inside his cage, you may be able to simply close the door on him.

-- If you can get close to your loose bird, don't try to grab him -- you'll likely scare him. Instead, offer him a perch or branch, and calmly give him the "step up" command if he knows it. He might just hop onto the perch out of habit, and then he's yours.

-- If you can't get close to your bird, you might be able to ground him by soaking him with the hose and then be able to capture him with a pillowcase.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Bird HotLine (www.birdhotline.com) works to reunite lost birds with their human families by offering a place for people to post and look for notices of birds lost and found. The site also maintains a group of volunteers, the Bird Patrol, who promise to keep an eye out in their area for pet birds who have escaped. To date, more than 2,000 people have signed up. The creators of the site are also on a mission to educate the public that a found bird likely belongs to someone, and the rule is not "finders keepers."

THE SCOOP

When the weather starts getting nippy, do-it-yourself mechanics start to think about getting fresh antifreeze in their cars -- and some animals will die as a result. Antifreeze is deadly stuff. A cat can get a lethal dose by walking through a puddle of it and then licking his paws. Protect your pet by being careful while working with this material, by keeping pets out of the work area and by quickly and completely wiping up all spills. Better yet, check with your auto-supply store for radiator filler that's safer to use around animals. The newer products have a different chemical makeup that reduces the risk to animals.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you so much for your article about "too many pets." I am one of those people who have a very difficult time not adopting an animal no one else wants. My husband and I have two dogs and 15 cats, most rescued, all unwanted.

I take very good care of our animals. Six are on medication (another reason for our taking them), and our house and their boxes and dishes are kept very clean. Our animals do not bother anyone: The cats are indoors only, and the dogs are not barkers.

It does take a lot of time to take care of them, but it is my choice. My reward is knowing that pets no one wants, whether they have chronic illness or are very timid, will be loved until the day they die naturally. -- T.L., via e-mail

A: Sounds as if you're doing very well for your family, and I admire you for taking in those pets who didn't have a great chance at adoption. I'm always arguing with people not to ignore such animals, especially the older pets. Many people won't even consider an animal who's over the age of 2 or 3. But many animals don't start settling down and becoming the best of pets until about the age of 5.

I also think (and I bet you do, too) that animals know when they've been saved. "Last-chance" pets really do seem to appreciate the people who are dedicated to working through the problems and providing a home for life.

One thing you need to think about, though: What would happen to all your pets if something should happen to you? This is something every pet lover needs to consider, but especially someone who has a lot of pets, many with special needs.

Talk to your friends and relatives about what would happen, and get an attorney to help you get all the arrangements settled, including arrangements for whatever money needs to be set aside to help with the care of these pets.

Q: OK, I know this is weird, but my cockatiel loves to share food from my meals, especially Kentucky Fried Chicken. This strikes me as kind of sick, a bird eating a bird. Shouldn't she know better? -- W.I., via e-mail

A: Sharing "people food" is one of the best things you can do for your bird, as long as your diet isn't full of lots of junk. Fresh fruits and veggies are great for you both, along with such foods as pasta and rice, cottage cheese and lean meats such as chicken. (I'd substitute lower-fat preparations for breaded and deep-friend, though.)

The staple you should always be feeding your parrot -- and yes, a cockatiel is a parrot, as is a budgie or parakeet -- is one of the many pelleted diets that are on the market. These are designed to cover the basics in terms of nutrition. But don't stop with pellets. Bring variety into your bird's diet by offering any healthy food you can think of -- the more choices, the better. Give special consideration to foods that also fight boredom and provide exercise, such as nuts in the shell and corn on the cob.

Do keep your food and your bird's food separate, though. While I like the idea of sharing, it's better that you give your bird her own plate rather than let her pick off yours.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600