The following story is true. The names have been changed to protect the innocent, by which I mean me, because the not-so-innocent will kill me if I hold my brother up for public disapproval. Let's call the man involved "John" and the dog "Spot."

So my brother John calls with a dog problem. Spot, adopted at the age of 1 year, is a wonderful dog, but if he gets out the front door, he bolts. The first time this happened, John explained, he chased the dog for blocks and finally cornered him. And what did he do at the moment of joyous reunion?

"I spanked him," said John.

To be fair, John's reaction is fairly typical. It's easy to become annoyed at a dog who has led you on a merry chase, making you look the fool in front of neighbors and passers-by. And no doubt it not only seems to make sense, but it also sure as heck feels right to paddle the pet. Besides, he'll learn that way, right?

Wrong. Punishing a dog for running from you is one surefire way to make sure he's even harder to catch the next time. Wouldn't you keep running if you knew you'd get spanked when caught? Of course you would. And that leads to the No. 1 rule of catching a loose dog: Never punish a dog for running away, and never, ever punish a dog for coming to you.

Actually, that's rule No. 2. The first rule is to make sure your dog understands what you mean when you say "come." And that involves training. Teaching the "come" call is easy, in theory. Put your dog on a sit-stay on leash, call his name, say "come," and reel him in with praise and treats (and more praise and treats when he gets to you).

So how come the majority of dog owners have to cross their fingers when they call their dogs? One of the reasons is that their dogs fear being caught, as Spot does, but there are a couple of others. And sometimes more than one reason applies.

Perhaps the dog doesn't really know the command. Few people practice the recall as much as they should, even though it's the one command that can save a dog's life. You probably use "sit" a half-dozen times a day around the house, but you probably never say "come" when you want your dog to come to you in the house. You probably just use his name. So how is he to know?

"Come" is also about respect, and your dog may not have any for you. "Come" is where all that work in training and developing the relationship with your dog pays off. A dog who thoroughly understands what's expected of him and respects you is going to mind. A dog who knows you're not a deity but a friendly flat-foot who couldn't catch a bus is going to treat you like the dope he thinks you are.

How to fix this? Train your dog to come in increments, on-leash and on longer leashes and lighter lines still. Practice in different places, large and small, both quiet and full of distractions. Get a trainer's help if you need to. Never let your dog figure out that you can't do much about it when he bolts. Practice, not just with formal training but in everyday life.

But what about the untrained dog, like Spot? If your dog takes off on you, kneel down and open your arms when calling to make yourself more inviting. If that doesn't work, try to use a command he knows well like "sit" instead of "come." Most dogs know "sit" so well that they'll plant their rumps, and once they're planted, you might be able to walk up and take their collars. Another possibility is to catch your dog's attention and run in the other direction, enticing him to follow you. The chase instinct is very strong in dogs, and it may well work.

Remember, a loose-dog situation is not about dog training, but about dog saving. When you have your dog safely on leash, praise him, be grateful, and make a vow that you'll take the time to teach him this most important of commands. Because next time he's out, you may not be so lucky to get him back in one piece.

PETS ON THE WEB

Community is the focus of the Pet Hobbyist (www.pethobbyist.com), a site that offers pet lovers of all kinds a chance to talk to others through bulletin boards and chat rooms. Pet Hobbyist got an infusion of expertise when the Veterinary Information Network (www.vin.com) brought Veterinary Partners (www.veterinarypartners.com) online, closed its Pet Care Forum and sent the community to Pet Hobbyist. I have long-standing relationships with all parties, I must acknowledge: VIN chief Dr. Paul Pion is my "Cat For Dummies" co-author and friend, and I'm also good friends with Christie Keith, who now works for Pet Hobbyist. The split between the Web sites was friendly, and pets and those who love them will continue to benefit from the information these Internet pioneers continue to provide.

THE SCOOP

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outdoor outing on leash, but for this treat, you need a harness. Choose one designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-eight design. Walking a cat isn't about heeling like a dog, but rather consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended. This leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Can you please explain how to put on a choke collar properly? I'm tired of seeing people walking their dogs with it on wrong. -- C.N., via e-mail

A: With the dog sitting on your left, make a downward facing "P" out of the collar, with the base of the letter on your side. Then slip the collar over the dog's head. The moving end of the collar should go over the dog's neck,

not under it. If it's put on incorrectly, the collar will not release easily when the leash is slackened.

The choke collar is one of the most difficult pieces of training equipment to use properly, which is why I now discourage its use. Newer products such as head halters are easier to use and provide control with less strain on the dog.

Q: I remember you wrote a while back about something to get rid of skunk smell. I thought I'd saved it, but couldn't find it last week when our Lab got hit. We tried tomato juice, which my husband had heard worked well, and ended up with a reddish-yellow dog who still smelled pretty bad. Would you please share the recipe again? We sure need it! –- S.L., via e-mail

A: As reported in the Chicago Tribune several years ago, a chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum discovered what turns out to be the hands-down best solution for eliminating odor on dogs who've been skunked. I like to give the man credit when I share his discovery, because there's no way he'll ever make any money for saving the noses of countless grateful pet lovers.

Why not? It's because the ingredients are cheap and can be found in any grocery store, and cannot be mixed in advance, or the container you seal them in will explode from the pressure of the chemical reaction. So, you'll

never find a bottle of "Dr. Krebaum's Miracle Skunk-B-Gon" on the shelf in your nearest pet-supply store.

Here's the formula: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Then, rinse thoroughly with tap water. For a big dog like your Labrador, you might double the recipe to improve coverage. Common sense dictates keeping the mix out of sensitive areas like the eyes and ears.

Obviously, you don't want to be taking the time to run for the store when you've got a stinky dog, so buy the ingredients now to keep them on hand. But remember –- don't mix. Hydrogen peroxide is a good thing to have around anyway, since it induces vomiting in a dog or puppy who might have eaten something toxic. Be sure to replace your bottle at least once a year, though, because the stuff seems to lose its kick over time.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The best way to keep from losing your pet permanently is to make sure he never becomes lost at all. And when it comes to pet birds, that ounce of prevention is worth even more than a pound of cure.

That's because birds have wings that make them almost impossible to catch once they've escaped. They can disappear completely, quickly traveling miles away from home. Or they remain tantalizingly close but just out of reach, in the high limbs of nearby trees.

The best thing you can do to keep your bird with you is to remove the power of those wings from the equation: Make sure that flight feathers are trimmed on a regular basis.

Birds with properly trimmed wings have a better chance of being caught if they do manage to escape. Trimmed wings also protect birds from potentially lethal indoor hazards, such as flying into ceiling fans or pots of boiling water.

Just as important as getting wings trimmed regularly is having them trimmed properly. A bird with properly trimmed wings should be able to fly gently downward to a safe landing, but not have the ability to fly up and away. Wings that aren't trimmed right can allow a bird to escape, or can cause psychological problems that stem from a fear of falling like a stone.

If you don't know how to trim your pet's wings, you have two choices: Have it done for you, by an expert at a veterinary office or bird shop, or have an expert show you how and then watch you do it until you're competent at the task. Either way, don't neglect this important aspect of caring for your bird.

So what should you do if your bird does get loose? Here are some tips that may help get your pet back.

-- Put fliers around your neighborhood, as well as at all veterinary hospitals, shelters and pet-supply stores in the area. Let local bird clubs know, too. Also contact all avian veterinarians in as large a region as you can -- a list can be found at the Association of Avian Veterinarians Web site (www.aav.org). Place an ad in your city's newspaper and in any community publications. It's probably a good idea to offer a reward as well, especially if your bird is of one of the flashy and expensive species.

-- Use knowledge of bird behavior to locate your pet. It's easier to find birds at just before dawn and just after dusk, when they are settled in one place and vocalizing. Enlist friends and neighbors to listen for parrot calls at that time.

-- If your bird is lingering nearby, set the cage out in your yard, and put food both on top of it and inside it. A bird may relish the chance to go home, once he realizes how thin the pickings are on the outside. You may also be able to keep him near by putting food on your roof, or putting his cage there. Be sure to check the cage frequently. Once he returns to the habit of eating inside his cage, you may be able to simply close the door on him.

-- If you can get close to your loose bird, don't try to grab him -- you'll likely scare him. Instead, offer him a perch or branch, and calmly give him the "step up" command if he knows it. He might just hop onto the perch out of habit, and then he's yours.

-- If you can't get close to your bird, you might be able to ground him by soaking him with the hose and then be able to capture him with a pillowcase.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Bird HotLine (www.birdhotline.com) works to reunite lost birds with their human families by offering a place for people to post and look for notices of birds lost and found. The site also maintains a group of volunteers, the Bird Patrol, who promise to keep an eye out in their area for pet birds who have escaped. To date, more than 2,000 people have signed up. The creators of the site are also on a mission to educate the public that a found bird likely belongs to someone, and the rule is not "finders keepers."

THE SCOOP

When the weather starts getting nippy, do-it-yourself mechanics start to think about getting fresh antifreeze in their cars -- and some animals will die as a result. Antifreeze is deadly stuff. A cat can get a lethal dose by walking through a puddle of it and then licking his paws. Protect your pet by being careful while working with this material, by keeping pets out of the work area and by quickly and completely wiping up all spills. Better yet, check with your auto-supply store for radiator filler that's safer to use around animals. The newer products have a different chemical makeup that reduces the risk to animals.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you so much for your article about "too many pets." I am one of those people who have a very difficult time not adopting an animal no one else wants. My husband and I have two dogs and 15 cats, most rescued, all unwanted.

I take very good care of our animals. Six are on medication (another reason for our taking them), and our house and their boxes and dishes are kept very clean. Our animals do not bother anyone: The cats are indoors only, and the dogs are not barkers.

It does take a lot of time to take care of them, but it is my choice. My reward is knowing that pets no one wants, whether they have chronic illness or are very timid, will be loved until the day they die naturally. -- T.L., via e-mail

A: Sounds as if you're doing very well for your family, and I admire you for taking in those pets who didn't have a great chance at adoption. I'm always arguing with people not to ignore such animals, especially the older pets. Many people won't even consider an animal who's over the age of 2 or 3. But many animals don't start settling down and becoming the best of pets until about the age of 5.

I also think (and I bet you do, too) that animals know when they've been saved. "Last-chance" pets really do seem to appreciate the people who are dedicated to working through the problems and providing a home for life.

One thing you need to think about, though: What would happen to all your pets if something should happen to you? This is something every pet lover needs to consider, but especially someone who has a lot of pets, many with special needs.

Talk to your friends and relatives about what would happen, and get an attorney to help you get all the arrangements settled, including arrangements for whatever money needs to be set aside to help with the care of these pets.

Q: OK, I know this is weird, but my cockatiel loves to share food from my meals, especially Kentucky Fried Chicken. This strikes me as kind of sick, a bird eating a bird. Shouldn't she know better? -- W.I., via e-mail

A: Sharing "people food" is one of the best things you can do for your bird, as long as your diet isn't full of lots of junk. Fresh fruits and veggies are great for you both, along with such foods as pasta and rice, cottage cheese and lean meats such as chicken. (I'd substitute lower-fat preparations for breaded and deep-friend, though.)

The staple you should always be feeding your parrot -- and yes, a cockatiel is a parrot, as is a budgie or parakeet -- is one of the many pelleted diets that are on the market. These are designed to cover the basics in terms of nutrition. But don't stop with pellets. Bring variety into your bird's diet by offering any healthy food you can think of -- the more choices, the better. Give special consideration to foods that also fight boredom and provide exercise, such as nuts in the shell and corn on the cob.

Do keep your food and your bird's food separate, though. While I like the idea of sharing, it's better that you give your bird her own plate rather than let her pick off yours.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is, or he isn't.

Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn't fair, and it isn't the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have really is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won't be able to train your pet if he's struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first.

If you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principals as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.

You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake. Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, give him a command for going -- I use "hurry up" with my dogs -- and praise him for doing right so he starts to understand what you want.

-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular daily exercise.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you've been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find. If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

THE SCOOP

When it comes to caring for pets, few beliefs are as widely spread and strongly held as the one that incorrectly suggests pets be tranquilized for an airline flight. I'm guessing it's because most of us would prefer spending our time in the air asleep, and figure that pets are the same. Flying is stressful, and it stands to reason that tranquilizers take the edge off a scary experience.

Wrong. Tranquilizing can increase the risk of flying for your pet. That's because the medication impairs the efficient functioning of a body, at a time when such efficiency can be essential to keeping your pet alive. That's why tranquilizing is not recommended for most flight-bound pets. Yours may be the exception, however, which is why you need to discuss the issue with your veterinarian beforehand.

PETS ON THE WEB

Most people don't consider a horse to fit into the category of "pet." The exception might be the miniature horse, some of which aren't that much bigger than a large dog. The American Miniature Horse Association Web site (www.amha.com) offers information on these distinctive horses, who aren't just for standing around looking cute. Originally developed to work in mines and other tight confines, miniature horses can be used to pull carts and serve as backpacking companions. The Web site has information on these activities, and more, along with plenty of pictures of these cute little hay-burners.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have an 11-week-old chocolate Labrador who does not like the water. I selected this breed because I wanted a dog who would enjoy a lake or pool. I take her into the pool almost daily, but she seems to be afraid. Any ideas? -- B.R. via e-mail

A: Careless breeding has diminished or removed the traditional traits of many popular breeds, including the desire in some Labradors to swim or retrieve.

If you'd asked me for advice before getting your pup, I would have recommended one of two things if you wanted a dog who'd swim: (1) Either look for an adult dog proven to possess such a trait (a rescue group would have been an ideal place to look); or (2) if you had to have a purebred Lab puppy, that you find a breeder offering pups from proven field and hunting lines. Either strategy would have maximized your chances at getting a dog who was gung-ho for water.

All is not lost, however. Your pup is still young and she may yet learn to enjoy swimming. First step: Quit scaring her! By forcing her into the water and making her swim, you may be making matters worse.

My best advice is to find someone (friend, neighbor, relative) who has a friendly dog who loves to swim and fetch. Take your pup out with that dog, and let the older animal swim and retrieve from the water. All the excitement and positive association may well encourage your pup to give swimming another try.

I'd also play retrieving games with your pup, making them as fun as possible for her. Once she's crazy for retrieving, you can try some water retrieves. Throw to the edge of the water, then in the shallows, etc. Go slowly, and always be positive.

If your dog never comes to love swimming, though, maybe you ought to count your blessings. I live with two water-mad retrievers who are a real challenge to keep out of the water.

The smell of wet dog is a constant, along with a mud-coated minivan and lots of filthy dog towels. Sometimes I find myself nostalgic for the days when I couldn't get my Shelties to go within 10 feet of water, except to take a drink.

Q: I saw an ad for a videotape about birds for cats who like to watch television. One of my cats loves to watch other cats on television. But I've never seen him show any interest in birds on the screen. However, he does like to sit by the window and watch birds outside. I was thinking of buying him this video, but will watching TV will make cats fat, as it does to people? -- K.S., via e-mail

A: TV cannot be really be held responsible for putting weight on people or pets. What does the deed is substituting time in front of the set for time spent involved in physically active pursuits, along with the propensity of TV watchers to snack while they watch.

I doubt the tape will put weight on your cat. He's not going to help himself to a bowl of munchies while the TV is on, and watching a videotape of birds might be a more active experience than catnapping, which is likely how he spends the day now.

I can't tell you if your cat will be interested, though. I have heard from some readers whose cats like these tapes very much. Other cats probably could not care less about birds they can see and hear but not smell or catch.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600