The best way to keep from losing your pet permanently is to make sure he never becomes lost at all. And when it comes to pet birds, that ounce of prevention is worth even more than a pound of cure.

That's because birds have wings that make them almost impossible to catch once they've escaped. They can disappear completely, quickly traveling miles away from home. Or they remain tantalizingly close but just out of reach, in the high limbs of nearby trees.

The best thing you can do to keep your bird with you is to remove the power of those wings from the equation: Make sure that flight feathers are trimmed on a regular basis.

Birds with properly trimmed wings have a better chance of being caught if they do manage to escape. Trimmed wings also protect birds from potentially lethal indoor hazards, such as flying into ceiling fans or pots of boiling water.

Just as important as getting wings trimmed regularly is having them trimmed properly. A bird with properly trimmed wings should be able to fly gently downward to a safe landing, but not have the ability to fly up and away. Wings that aren't trimmed right can allow a bird to escape, or can cause psychological problems that stem from a fear of falling like a stone.

If you don't know how to trim your pet's wings, you have two choices: Have it done for you, by an expert at a veterinary office or bird shop, or have an expert show you how and then watch you do it until you're competent at the task. Either way, don't neglect this important aspect of caring for your bird.

So what should you do if your bird does get loose? Here are some tips that may help get your pet back.

-- Put fliers around your neighborhood, as well as at all veterinary hospitals, shelters and pet-supply stores in the area. Let local bird clubs know, too. Also contact all avian veterinarians in as large a region as you can -- a list can be found at the Association of Avian Veterinarians Web site (www.aav.org). Place an ad in your city's newspaper and in any community publications. It's probably a good idea to offer a reward as well, especially if your bird is of one of the flashy and expensive species.

-- Use knowledge of bird behavior to locate your pet. It's easier to find birds at just before dawn and just after dusk, when they are settled in one place and vocalizing. Enlist friends and neighbors to listen for parrot calls at that time.

-- If your bird is lingering nearby, set the cage out in your yard, and put food both on top of it and inside it. A bird may relish the chance to go home, once he realizes how thin the pickings are on the outside. You may also be able to keep him near by putting food on your roof, or putting his cage there. Be sure to check the cage frequently. Once he returns to the habit of eating inside his cage, you may be able to simply close the door on him.

-- If you can get close to your loose bird, don't try to grab him -- you'll likely scare him. Instead, offer him a perch or branch, and calmly give him the "step up" command if he knows it. He might just hop onto the perch out of habit, and then he's yours.

-- If you can't get close to your bird, you might be able to ground him by soaking him with the hose and then be able to capture him with a pillowcase.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Bird HotLine (www.birdhotline.com) works to reunite lost birds with their human families by offering a place for people to post and look for notices of birds lost and found. The site also maintains a group of volunteers, the Bird Patrol, who promise to keep an eye out in their area for pet birds who have escaped. To date, more than 2,000 people have signed up. The creators of the site are also on a mission to educate the public that a found bird likely belongs to someone, and the rule is not "finders keepers."

THE SCOOP

When the weather starts getting nippy, do-it-yourself mechanics start to think about getting fresh antifreeze in their cars -- and some animals will die as a result. Antifreeze is deadly stuff. A cat can get a lethal dose by walking through a puddle of it and then licking his paws. Protect your pet by being careful while working with this material, by keeping pets out of the work area and by quickly and completely wiping up all spills. Better yet, check with your auto-supply store for radiator filler that's safer to use around animals. The newer products have a different chemical makeup that reduces the risk to animals.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you so much for your article about "too many pets." I am one of those people who have a very difficult time not adopting an animal no one else wants. My husband and I have two dogs and 15 cats, most rescued, all unwanted.

I take very good care of our animals. Six are on medication (another reason for our taking them), and our house and their boxes and dishes are kept very clean. Our animals do not bother anyone: The cats are indoors only, and the dogs are not barkers.

It does take a lot of time to take care of them, but it is my choice. My reward is knowing that pets no one wants, whether they have chronic illness or are very timid, will be loved until the day they die naturally. -- T.L., via e-mail

A: Sounds as if you're doing very well for your family, and I admire you for taking in those pets who didn't have a great chance at adoption. I'm always arguing with people not to ignore such animals, especially the older pets. Many people won't even consider an animal who's over the age of 2 or 3. But many animals don't start settling down and becoming the best of pets until about the age of 5.

I also think (and I bet you do, too) that animals know when they've been saved. "Last-chance" pets really do seem to appreciate the people who are dedicated to working through the problems and providing a home for life.

One thing you need to think about, though: What would happen to all your pets if something should happen to you? This is something every pet lover needs to consider, but especially someone who has a lot of pets, many with special needs.

Talk to your friends and relatives about what would happen, and get an attorney to help you get all the arrangements settled, including arrangements for whatever money needs to be set aside to help with the care of these pets.

Q: OK, I know this is weird, but my cockatiel loves to share food from my meals, especially Kentucky Fried Chicken. This strikes me as kind of sick, a bird eating a bird. Shouldn't she know better? -- W.I., via e-mail

A: Sharing "people food" is one of the best things you can do for your bird, as long as your diet isn't full of lots of junk. Fresh fruits and veggies are great for you both, along with such foods as pasta and rice, cottage cheese and lean meats such as chicken. (I'd substitute lower-fat preparations for breaded and deep-friend, though.)

The staple you should always be feeding your parrot -- and yes, a cockatiel is a parrot, as is a budgie or parakeet -- is one of the many pelleted diets that are on the market. These are designed to cover the basics in terms of nutrition. But don't stop with pellets. Bring variety into your bird's diet by offering any healthy food you can think of -- the more choices, the better. Give special consideration to foods that also fight boredom and provide exercise, such as nuts in the shell and corn on the cob.

Do keep your food and your bird's food separate, though. While I like the idea of sharing, it's better that you give your bird her own plate rather than let her pick off yours.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is, or he isn't.

Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn't fair, and it isn't the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have really is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won't be able to train your pet if he's struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first.

If you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principals as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.

You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake. Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, give him a command for going -- I use "hurry up" with my dogs -- and praise him for doing right so he starts to understand what you want.

-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular daily exercise.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you've been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find. If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

THE SCOOP

When it comes to caring for pets, few beliefs are as widely spread and strongly held as the one that incorrectly suggests pets be tranquilized for an airline flight. I'm guessing it's because most of us would prefer spending our time in the air asleep, and figure that pets are the same. Flying is stressful, and it stands to reason that tranquilizers take the edge off a scary experience.

Wrong. Tranquilizing can increase the risk of flying for your pet. That's because the medication impairs the efficient functioning of a body, at a time when such efficiency can be essential to keeping your pet alive. That's why tranquilizing is not recommended for most flight-bound pets. Yours may be the exception, however, which is why you need to discuss the issue with your veterinarian beforehand.

PETS ON THE WEB

Most people don't consider a horse to fit into the category of "pet." The exception might be the miniature horse, some of which aren't that much bigger than a large dog. The American Miniature Horse Association Web site (www.amha.com) offers information on these distinctive horses, who aren't just for standing around looking cute. Originally developed to work in mines and other tight confines, miniature horses can be used to pull carts and serve as backpacking companions. The Web site has information on these activities, and more, along with plenty of pictures of these cute little hay-burners.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have an 11-week-old chocolate Labrador who does not like the water. I selected this breed because I wanted a dog who would enjoy a lake or pool. I take her into the pool almost daily, but she seems to be afraid. Any ideas? -- B.R. via e-mail

A: Careless breeding has diminished or removed the traditional traits of many popular breeds, including the desire in some Labradors to swim or retrieve.

If you'd asked me for advice before getting your pup, I would have recommended one of two things if you wanted a dog who'd swim: (1) Either look for an adult dog proven to possess such a trait (a rescue group would have been an ideal place to look); or (2) if you had to have a purebred Lab puppy, that you find a breeder offering pups from proven field and hunting lines. Either strategy would have maximized your chances at getting a dog who was gung-ho for water.

All is not lost, however. Your pup is still young and she may yet learn to enjoy swimming. First step: Quit scaring her! By forcing her into the water and making her swim, you may be making matters worse.

My best advice is to find someone (friend, neighbor, relative) who has a friendly dog who loves to swim and fetch. Take your pup out with that dog, and let the older animal swim and retrieve from the water. All the excitement and positive association may well encourage your pup to give swimming another try.

I'd also play retrieving games with your pup, making them as fun as possible for her. Once she's crazy for retrieving, you can try some water retrieves. Throw to the edge of the water, then in the shallows, etc. Go slowly, and always be positive.

If your dog never comes to love swimming, though, maybe you ought to count your blessings. I live with two water-mad retrievers who are a real challenge to keep out of the water.

The smell of wet dog is a constant, along with a mud-coated minivan and lots of filthy dog towels. Sometimes I find myself nostalgic for the days when I couldn't get my Shelties to go within 10 feet of water, except to take a drink.

Q: I saw an ad for a videotape about birds for cats who like to watch television. One of my cats loves to watch other cats on television. But I've never seen him show any interest in birds on the screen. However, he does like to sit by the window and watch birds outside. I was thinking of buying him this video, but will watching TV will make cats fat, as it does to people? -- K.S., via e-mail

A: TV cannot be really be held responsible for putting weight on people or pets. What does the deed is substituting time in front of the set for time spent involved in physically active pursuits, along with the propensity of TV watchers to snack while they watch.

I doubt the tape will put weight on your cat. He's not going to help himself to a bowl of munchies while the TV is on, and watching a videotape of birds might be a more active experience than catnapping, which is likely how he spends the day now.

I can't tell you if your cat will be interested, though. I have heard from some readers whose cats like these tapes very much. Other cats probably could not care less about birds they can see and hear but not smell or catch.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The crunch of my tires on the long gravel driveway broke the stillness of the warm afternoon and woke the furry forms on the distant front porch. Suddenly my car was surrounded by dogs -- their tails wagging and eyes bright. I stopped the car, not because I was afraid of the dogs, but because I was afraid of running over one of them.

While I wondered if I should leave the car where it was and walk the rest of the driveway, a shout came from the house. The dogs turned as one and ran for the sound. Deprived of my escort, I drove slowly to the house and got out of the car.

"Quite a mob, huh?" said the source of the shout, a woman of about my own middle age, thin and wiry with long gray hair that made an appealing frame for her tiny face and big smile.

The dogs -- I counted seven in all -- were settling down nicely now, their smiles as welcoming as the woman's. There was a dog here for nearly everyone's taste in canines: different sizes, shapes, fur lengths and colors, purebreds and mixes both. More dogs than I could care for, but then, the very number of them was one of the reasons I was visiting.

I'd come wondering if it was possible to have too many pets, and if there was an absolute number that defined too many. I hoped to find part of the answer here.

The number of animals my host willingly kept and scrupulously cared for would fit most anyone's definition of "too many." In addition to the dogs, she shared her home and acreage with dozens of animals, mostly unwanted by others. A half-dozen indoor cats, a dozen or so half-wild barn ones. A handful of horses, all but one of the animals unridable because of age and illness, and all saved from a trip to the slaughterhouse. A llama. Some sheep and goats. A rabbit. A scarlet macaw, a Moluccan cockatoo and an uncountable number of finches. All cared for by a single energetic woman, living what some would call "alone" by virtue of her lack of human companionship.

The very thought of what her days were like was enough to make me wish for a nap.

I have seen a couple of cases and read of many others in which the need to keep animals becomes a mental illness that causes suffering for both the owners and the animals they bring in. Overwhelmed by their responsibilities, such people -- mental health experts call them "collectors" -- are unable to care for their animals and even less willing to give them up. These situations are tragic and demand intervention.

But as I walked around with my energetic host, I saw for myself how much she truly loved her animals and how her affections were returned in kind. Every animal offered evidence of the best long-term care, and each pasture, pen and cage was clean, with fresh food and water.

Too many animals? Not here. Her little sanctuary for the unwanted and formerly unloved was heaven on earth for her non-human companions.

I was crunching back down that long gravel driveway heading for home, vowing to never feel overwhelmed caring for a mere three dogs again, when I came to the realization that each of us has to reconcile the number of pets we keep with the size of our hearts and the strength of our bodies to care for them.

Which is why I, with three dogs and no more, suddenly felt envious of the woman who had the energy to care for all the pets I had room for in my heart.

PETS ON THE WEB

While you'll find lots of information on every imaginable dog sport and cat breed, finding good reference material on less-popular pets can be hard to come by, even in the vastness of the Internet. Which is why I was pleased when a reader sent me a link to the Guinea Pig Compendium, at www.aracnet.com/(tilde)seagull/Guineas. The site is well-organized, offering solid information on types and markings of guinea pig, where to find one and how to care for your pet. There are lots of links to other resources, as well, including e-mail lists and other Web sites. Especially useful: A searchable index of veterinarians who like to have guinea pigs as patients, or have been recommended by their clients for their skill with these pets.

THE SCOOP

I can't remember the last time one of those high-profile medical studies made me smile so much. After spending years soothing expectant parents worried about exposing a baby to "dirty" animals, I was delighted to read of the study suggesting that having multiple dogs and cats can have a beneficial influence on the future health of a child. The report suggests that having pets in the home can significantly reduce the possibility of an infant developing allergies -- of all sorts, not just to pets -- later on in life. What's the best news from this study, from a pet's perspective? Now maybe fewer people will dump their pets when a baby is on the way. The study appeared in a recent issue of The Journal of the American Medical Association.

Q: We have a 9-year-old longhaired cat. We are having a problem with very large mats in the hair close to the scalp. We brush him, but for some reason these mats formed anyway and are impossible to remove. I tried to cut them out with scissors, but they are too close to the skin. Any tips? -- C.M., via e-mail

A: The kindest thing for any animal whose mats have gotten out of control is to have a groomer clip him short. The time involved in trying to remove mats along with the pain of tugging at snagged fur will try the patience of owner and pet alike.

That said, if the mats are few and your cat is patient, you can try to pick them out. Don't bathe your pet before starting: It will only make matters worse with the mats and irritate your cat.

Get your pet into your lap, and relax him with petting and sweet talk. If he won't settle down, try again later. You want him in a good mood for this.

If you're getting some cooperation, start by working corn starch into the first mat, and then gently and carefully slide the bottom blade of a sharp set of scissors under the tangle, with the cutting edge facing out, and slice through the mat. Go in a direction away from the skin rather than cutting across the mat parallel to the skin. Repeat a couple of times. Then, holding the mat at the base to minimize pulling, pick apart the fur with a wide-toothed metal comb. When the mat is gone, follow with a narrower comb and brush to remove the debris that you find at the heart of the mess.

Be sure to praise and treat your pet for his patience as you go. Work in short periods, and try to stop before your cat has had enough. (Tip: Watch his tail. If he starts flicking it in an agitated way, he's reaching the limits of his tolerance.)

If you have more than a couple of mats, however, I strongly suggest the buzz-cut option. A good groomer can give your pet a cut with a minimum of strain on your pet -- most cats can get a "lion trim," with the fur around the neck and on the head left alone.

Once an animal has been sheared down, make it habit to comb or brush your pet regularly to keep the problem from coming back. Mats can be painful -- think of having your hair held in a too-tight rubber band -- and are best prevented by regular grooming.

Q: Our dog loves ice. Is it OK to let him have some? -- K.W., via e-mail

A: Sure. Ice is a cool treat on a hot day, and some dogs really like it. For a change of pace, make your dog some "pupsicles" by freezing broth in ice-cube trays (I prefer the low-salt, low-fat variety).

Ice is a great way to keep your dog's water cool on a hot day, too. Create ice blocks by freezing water in margarine tubs, and float the frozen chunks in your dog's water dish.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600