The crunch of my tires on the long gravel driveway broke the stillness of the warm afternoon and woke the furry forms on the distant front porch. Suddenly my car was surrounded by dogs -- their tails wagging and eyes bright. I stopped the car, not because I was afraid of the dogs, but because I was afraid of running over one of them.

While I wondered if I should leave the car where it was and walk the rest of the driveway, a shout came from the house. The dogs turned as one and ran for the sound. Deprived of my escort, I drove slowly to the house and got out of the car.

"Quite a mob, huh?" said the source of the shout, a woman of about my own middle age, thin and wiry with long gray hair that made an appealing frame for her tiny face and big smile.

The dogs -- I counted seven in all -- were settling down nicely now, their smiles as welcoming as the woman's. There was a dog here for nearly everyone's taste in canines: different sizes, shapes, fur lengths and colors, purebreds and mixes both. More dogs than I could care for, but then, the very number of them was one of the reasons I was visiting.

I'd come wondering if it was possible to have too many pets, and if there was an absolute number that defined too many. I hoped to find part of the answer here.

The number of animals my host willingly kept and scrupulously cared for would fit most anyone's definition of "too many." In addition to the dogs, she shared her home and acreage with dozens of animals, mostly unwanted by others. A half-dozen indoor cats, a dozen or so half-wild barn ones. A handful of horses, all but one of the animals unridable because of age and illness, and all saved from a trip to the slaughterhouse. A llama. Some sheep and goats. A rabbit. A scarlet macaw, a Moluccan cockatoo and an uncountable number of finches. All cared for by a single energetic woman, living what some would call "alone" by virtue of her lack of human companionship.

The very thought of what her days were like was enough to make me wish for a nap.

I have seen a couple of cases and read of many others in which the need to keep animals becomes a mental illness that causes suffering for both the owners and the animals they bring in. Overwhelmed by their responsibilities, such people -- mental health experts call them "collectors" -- are unable to care for their animals and even less willing to give them up. These situations are tragic and demand intervention.

But as I walked around with my energetic host, I saw for myself how much she truly loved her animals and how her affections were returned in kind. Every animal offered evidence of the best long-term care, and each pasture, pen and cage was clean, with fresh food and water.

Too many animals? Not here. Her little sanctuary for the unwanted and formerly unloved was heaven on earth for her non-human companions.

I was crunching back down that long gravel driveway heading for home, vowing to never feel overwhelmed caring for a mere three dogs again, when I came to the realization that each of us has to reconcile the number of pets we keep with the size of our hearts and the strength of our bodies to care for them.

Which is why I, with three dogs and no more, suddenly felt envious of the woman who had the energy to care for all the pets I had room for in my heart.

PETS ON THE WEB

While you'll find lots of information on every imaginable dog sport and cat breed, finding good reference material on less-popular pets can be hard to come by, even in the vastness of the Internet. Which is why I was pleased when a reader sent me a link to the Guinea Pig Compendium, at www.aracnet.com/(tilde)seagull/Guineas. The site is well-organized, offering solid information on types and markings of guinea pig, where to find one and how to care for your pet. There are lots of links to other resources, as well, including e-mail lists and other Web sites. Especially useful: A searchable index of veterinarians who like to have guinea pigs as patients, or have been recommended by their clients for their skill with these pets.

THE SCOOP

I can't remember the last time one of those high-profile medical studies made me smile so much. After spending years soothing expectant parents worried about exposing a baby to "dirty" animals, I was delighted to read of the study suggesting that having multiple dogs and cats can have a beneficial influence on the future health of a child. The report suggests that having pets in the home can significantly reduce the possibility of an infant developing allergies -- of all sorts, not just to pets -- later on in life. What's the best news from this study, from a pet's perspective? Now maybe fewer people will dump their pets when a baby is on the way. The study appeared in a recent issue of The Journal of the American Medical Association.

Q: We have a 9-year-old longhaired cat. We are having a problem with very large mats in the hair close to the scalp. We brush him, but for some reason these mats formed anyway and are impossible to remove. I tried to cut them out with scissors, but they are too close to the skin. Any tips? -- C.M., via e-mail

A: The kindest thing for any animal whose mats have gotten out of control is to have a groomer clip him short. The time involved in trying to remove mats along with the pain of tugging at snagged fur will try the patience of owner and pet alike.

That said, if the mats are few and your cat is patient, you can try to pick them out. Don't bathe your pet before starting: It will only make matters worse with the mats and irritate your cat.

Get your pet into your lap, and relax him with petting and sweet talk. If he won't settle down, try again later. You want him in a good mood for this.

If you're getting some cooperation, start by working corn starch into the first mat, and then gently and carefully slide the bottom blade of a sharp set of scissors under the tangle, with the cutting edge facing out, and slice through the mat. Go in a direction away from the skin rather than cutting across the mat parallel to the skin. Repeat a couple of times. Then, holding the mat at the base to minimize pulling, pick apart the fur with a wide-toothed metal comb. When the mat is gone, follow with a narrower comb and brush to remove the debris that you find at the heart of the mess.

Be sure to praise and treat your pet for his patience as you go. Work in short periods, and try to stop before your cat has had enough. (Tip: Watch his tail. If he starts flicking it in an agitated way, he's reaching the limits of his tolerance.)

If you have more than a couple of mats, however, I strongly suggest the buzz-cut option. A good groomer can give your pet a cut with a minimum of strain on your pet -- most cats can get a "lion trim," with the fur around the neck and on the head left alone.

Once an animal has been sheared down, make it habit to comb or brush your pet regularly to keep the problem from coming back. Mats can be painful -- think of having your hair held in a too-tight rubber band -- and are best prevented by regular grooming.

Q: Our dog loves ice. Is it OK to let him have some? -- K.W., via e-mail

A: Sure. Ice is a cool treat on a hot day, and some dogs really like it. For a change of pace, make your dog some "pupsicles" by freezing broth in ice-cube trays (I prefer the low-salt, low-fat variety).

Ice is a great way to keep your dog's water cool on a hot day, too. Create ice blocks by freezing water in margarine tubs, and float the frozen chunks in your dog's water dish.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

What was I thinking? With the addition of puppy Chase, I added a white dog to a family of two black ones, thus guaranteeing that there's no outfit I could possibly put together that wouldn't show dog hair on it. Before Chase joined the family, if I wore dark clothes at least the fur from the black dogs wouldn't show.

But pet hair isn't my only worry in maintaining a neat appearance. In my house, I'm constantly fighting paw prints, chewed-up bits of this or that (isn't it fun to have a puppy?) as well as things dragged in, thrown up or otherwise deposited on previously clean surfaces. Then there's Heather, the retriever who has been digging her own swimming hole in the yard for a couple of years now, who thinks it's perfectly appropriate to come in covered with dirt and trot down the hall to take a nap on the bed ... my bed.

Did I mention she's teaching the puppy to dig?

While the dogs are my biggest challenge when it comes to maintaining a clean house, the truth is that I'm not the neatest person in the world, either. I admit that over the years I've needed a housekeeper to help keep my home reasonably clean. I offer all of this by way of explanation as to why I'm so awed by those people who manage to have pets and a clean home. Like reader Kaye Holden, who wrote in to share one of her cleaning tips. For the record, I think anyone who has white carpet and pets is either incredibly dedicated or just plain crazy.

"We have a yellow Labrador, a house dog who over the years has left a few unpleasant surprises on our white low-pile carpet," she writes. "I always did my best to clean them up using every product I could find and our steam cleaner, but I was never completely successful. A few months ago when I was working on a new mess, carrying some soiled paper towels through the garage, I noticed my wet-and-dry shop vacuum and had an inspiration.

"On the still badly soiled spot, I saturated the area with a product that can be bought at most pet stores for removing stains and odors. I waited a few minutes then vacuumed it up. (I took the floor attachment off and used only the hose for maximum suction.)

"The first attempt got up 90 percent of the mess. One more application and there was not a trace left -- or any odor. Since then I have used the same technique twice, and it has worked perfectly. Not only did it clean, but it took a total of maybe 10 minutes including the soaking time.

"What a discovery! Of course, I still scrape up the worst using stiff cardboard and I do have to empty the stinky canister, but it's quick and far cheaper than calling in the carpet cleaners. If you don't have one, shop vacuums can be purchased for under $100. Compared to professional carpet cleaners it's cheap."

It's a great tip, and it got me thinking about keeping a home clean when you have pets. While I'm perfectly happy to offer advice on pets, advice on cleaning isn't in my repertoire. So I'm turning it over to you.

Give me your tips on cleaning up after pets. Are there techniques and products you can't live without? Let me know at the e-mail address below. I'll use as many as I can in an upcoming column.

And heck, I'll likely use them in my own home as well. I could surely use the help.

PETS ON THE WEB

The raw-food movement is still pretty new, but it's

certainly growing -- if the amount of mail I got on the subject after mentioning it a few weeks ago is any indication. To be sure, feeding a diet of raw meats and bones (along with veggies and some supplements) is not for everyone, and never will be. But the so-called BARF diet (for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) is popular enough that many butchers are no longer surprised to have people ask for cases of chicken backs and turkey necks to feed their pets. While the jury is still out on how healthy the diet is -- many veterinarians consider it a dangerous fad -- it's never harmful to consider the options. Raw-food proponent Dr. Ian Billinghurst's Web site (www.barfworld.com) is pretty commercial -- he's selling his version of the diet, and his books -- but still chock-full of information. If you're considering this diet for your pet, this is one site you need to visit.

THE SCOOP

Pets just keep getting more popular. Nearly two-thirds (62 percent) of all U.S. households keep a pet, up from 56 percent in 1988, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. Cats remain the most popular pets, with 73 million of them sharing our lives compared to 68 million dogs. Looked at another way, however, dogs have a claim on popularity: More households keep dogs (40 million) than keep cats (34.7) million. The difference? People who love cats tend to keep more than one of them. Just to confuse matters further, almost half of all pet-keeping households keep more than one kind of pet.

What's this all costing? About $29 billion a year, which breaks down to around $460 per pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have five cats who are all part of a multi-generation family. Mr. Rolls is the patriarch of my feline brood, and he is definitely the "head cat in charge." I also have two of his children, a son and a daughter. The Rolls family is also blessed with two granddaughters whose mama passed away last year.

The two youngest cats are always trying to attack their aunt. I have to keep them in separate rooms or they pounce on her with the intention of causing her bodily harm. The two males get along with her and she is calm when they are in close proximity. What would cause this hostile behavior?

My cats have all been fixed and none of the females have ever reproduced. Is there anything I can do to stop the fur from flying? -- K.H., via e-mail

A: Although the experts now believe that cats are more social with each other than once believed, cats are still not as happy about living in groups as the pack-focused dog is. And if you think about the way canines and felines hunt, the difference between these carnivores makes more sense.

Cats large and small are mostly solitary hunters, tracking and killing prey on their own. Dogs and wolves have evolved to hunt as a team. The wild relatives of domestic cats generally do not share hunting territory with other cats, while a hunting range of wild dogs or wolves often contains a family unit, not an individual animal.

Because of the team approach to hunting, dogs have developed a way to settle differences within a social structure, usually without resorting to fighting. Ritual postures establish and reinforce the rankings, with high-ranking animals acting differently than their subordinates. Dogs need to get along to survive as hunters; cats don't. Dogs generally work out their differences; cats prefer to stay away from each other when they don't get along.

Problem is, cats often don't get a choice when it comes to who's sharing their space. Most people who like cats keep more than one of them: The national average is 2.1 per household. When you have a long-standing rivalry such as the one in your home, often the best thing to do is keep the cats permanently apart. Look for a part of the home "Aunt Kitty" can call her own, safe from her two snotty nieces. For company's sake, you might consider keeping Auntie and the two boys in one part of the home, and the nieces in the other.

Q: We have a small parrot who has a pretty big cage. A friend wants to give us her budgie. Can we just put him in the cage with our parrot? Will they get along? –- V.B., via e-mail

A: I'm assuming the budgie is being offered along with a cage, and you're thinking of doubling up the birds just so they can have company. Nice thought, but birds are usually better off in their own cages. Some birds are downright aggressive to others, even of their own species. When you throw in a difference in size -- a budgie is pretty small, after all -- you could end up with the little one getting seriously hurt.

Keeping the cages in the same room if you want, but make sure each bird has a "room" of his own.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It may seem odd, but there's a parallel between abductions and dog attacks: Most children who are victimized aren't randomly selected; they're attacked by a person or dog known to them. Just as an abductor is more likely to be someone known to the child -- an estranged parent, say -- a dog involved in a serious attack is more likely to be an animal the child knows, kept by the family, a friend or a relative.

The profile on these dogs is well-known to experts. They're usually kept isolated from the family, often spending their lives on chains. This increases their sense of isolation and their desire to protect territory. They're often untrained and unsocialized, usually young, unneutered males who are just coming into their own as adults and starting to feel -- absent human assistance -- that in their territory, they reign supreme.

Any child who wanders into the reach of such an animal is in grave danger.

If you have such a dog, you must take action. First step: Neutering, to minimize hormone-influenced aggression and territoriality. Then, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can help you train and socialize the animal. If you cannot rehabilitate your dog, you must be certain he is securely contained in an escape-proof area and muzzled while in public. Sadly, for some of these animals, euthanasia is the only answer.

Even if your family dog is a cupcake, your child may still be at risk for a bite. The Humane Society of the United States suggests teaching your children how to behave around strange dogs and how to react if attacked. With the start of school at hand, and with many children walking on streets that may have loose dogs, be sure your children know the following:

-- Never approach a loose dog, even if he seems friendly. Dogs confined in yards and especially on chains should also be avoided. If the dog is with its owner, children should always ask permission before petting and then begin by offering the back of the hand for a sniff. Pat on the neck or chest -- the dog may interpret a pat from above as a dominant gesture. Teach your children to avoid fast or jerky movements.

-- "Be a tree" when a dog approaches, standing straight with feet together, fists under the neck and elbows into the chest. Teach your children to make no eye contact: Some dogs view this as a challenge. Running is a normal response to danger, but it's the worst possible thing to do around a dog, because it triggers the animal's instinct to chase and bite. Many dogs just sniff and leave; teach your children to stay still until the animal walks away, and then back away slowly out of the area.

-- "Feed" the dog a jacket or backpack if attacked, or use a bike to block the dog. These strategies may keep an attacking dog's teeth from connecting on flesh.

-- Act like a log if knocked down -- face down, legs together, curled into a ball with fists covering the back of the neck and forearms over the ears. This position protects vital areas and can keep an attack from turning fatal.

Role-play these lessons with your child until they are ingrained. Dealing with the dangers in your own yard and teaching your children how to cope may spare your child a bite -- and even save a life.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Daily Drool (www.dailydrool.com) serves as the home page for an e-mail list that celebrates the basset hound. The Drool offers health and training information on this low-slung, low-key breed, as well as pictures and sound clips, information on how to find a puppy or adult basset, links to rescue groups, shopping and more. One of the most amusing pages features the basset-related license plates of some Drool members, such as "BASSTMBL" and "DAWGMOM." This site is as informative as it is entertaining. Anyone who has or is thinking about getting a basset hound will find much of interest here.

THE SCOOP

Whenever I need to pick up a little gift for a cat lover, I always go for one of Bob Walker's books, the first of which was "The Cats' House" (Andrews McMeel, $16.95). Walker and his wife, Frances Mooney, live in a modest Southern California house they've remodeled in a spectacularly clever and colorful way for the pleasure and comfort of their cats, with floor-to-ceiling cat trees leading to overhead catwalks that connect from room to room through holes cut in the walls.

The books, like the house, are like nothing else out there, bright and whimsical depictions of what must be some of the happiest cats in the world. I met Walker at a conference a few years back -- "just call me Bobcat," he said, merrily. I found him to be every bit as charming as his books. This makes me feel doubly good about supporting both his work and his happy cats!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've heard that head halters can cause serious injuries if used wrongly. A too-abrupt tug could jerk a dog's head causing neck or spinal injuries, couldn't it? -- A.K., via e-mail

A: Anything's possible, which is why I don't recommend using a head halter with one of those long, reel-type leashes. The force of a running dog hitting the end of a 30-foot line does have the potential to cause injury.

In truth, just about every piece of canine equipment has the potential for problems if used incorrectly. Slip-chain collars can choke a dog or injure his neck. Break-away collars, designed to release a dog who's caught on something, can result in a dog being off-leash when it's least safe, such as next to a busy street. And head halters can jerk a dog's head around.

If you don't know what's right for your dog or how to use it, find a trainer who can help you choose the appropriate equipment and show you how it works. Every piece of training equipment is right for some dogs, but no single item is right for all.

Q: We have a neighbor who is always getting cats and then will not feed them regularly or provide them with medical care. They are covered with fleas, mites and burrs and frequently become ill. Because they aren't altered, the males are very aggressive and the females produce kittens.

Our cats can't set foot outside, and we can't leave a door or window open without her cats coming inside to forage for food or attack our cats.

We have done what we can. We have taken three cats to the animal shelter, treated others for fleas, had a few neutered and found homes for some kittens. We've also paid for emergency medical care -- even surgery -- for injured animals, and have tried to keep the cats fed when they become desperate.

Communication with this neighbor is impossible. We have tried, as have many people before us. She knows her behavior is disruptive and couldn't care less.

We are at our wits' end. Is there anything that can be done about situations like this? We've tried to work with the local animal shelter, but they've made it clear they'd prefer not to have the problem transferred to them. -- G.J., via e-mail

A: You've already done more than most people would in trying to care for the neighbor's cats and, clearly, you and the cats (hers and yours both) need help with this situation.

Try again with local officials, talking directly to the humane investigators in your area, not just the front-desk people at the shelter. Let investigators know that the neighbor is neglecting even the most basic needs of the animals. Talk to municipal officials as well about the nuisance, noise and health problems the cats present. I'd also consider talking to an attorney, especially if her aggressive cats cause injury to yours on your property -- paying a few veterinary bills may get her attention. And see if you can get the neighbors involved: The more people who complain, the more force the complaints have, especially with municipal officials.

It may not seem fair to the cats to take action against the neighbor, since they may end up in the shelter if she's forced to clean up her act. But the best solution for all involved -- including her string of long-suffering pets -- would be if this woman is finally convinced to keep no animals at all.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600