What was I thinking? With the addition of puppy Chase, I added a white dog to a family of two black ones, thus guaranteeing that there's no outfit I could possibly put together that wouldn't show dog hair on it. Before Chase joined the family, if I wore dark clothes at least the fur from the black dogs wouldn't show.

But pet hair isn't my only worry in maintaining a neat appearance. In my house, I'm constantly fighting paw prints, chewed-up bits of this or that (isn't it fun to have a puppy?) as well as things dragged in, thrown up or otherwise deposited on previously clean surfaces. Then there's Heather, the retriever who has been digging her own swimming hole in the yard for a couple of years now, who thinks it's perfectly appropriate to come in covered with dirt and trot down the hall to take a nap on the bed ... my bed.

Did I mention she's teaching the puppy to dig?

While the dogs are my biggest challenge when it comes to maintaining a clean house, the truth is that I'm not the neatest person in the world, either. I admit that over the years I've needed a housekeeper to help keep my home reasonably clean. I offer all of this by way of explanation as to why I'm so awed by those people who manage to have pets and a clean home. Like reader Kaye Holden, who wrote in to share one of her cleaning tips. For the record, I think anyone who has white carpet and pets is either incredibly dedicated or just plain crazy.

"We have a yellow Labrador, a house dog who over the years has left a few unpleasant surprises on our white low-pile carpet," she writes. "I always did my best to clean them up using every product I could find and our steam cleaner, but I was never completely successful. A few months ago when I was working on a new mess, carrying some soiled paper towels through the garage, I noticed my wet-and-dry shop vacuum and had an inspiration.

"On the still badly soiled spot, I saturated the area with a product that can be bought at most pet stores for removing stains and odors. I waited a few minutes then vacuumed it up. (I took the floor attachment off and used only the hose for maximum suction.)

"The first attempt got up 90 percent of the mess. One more application and there was not a trace left -- or any odor. Since then I have used the same technique twice, and it has worked perfectly. Not only did it clean, but it took a total of maybe 10 minutes including the soaking time.

"What a discovery! Of course, I still scrape up the worst using stiff cardboard and I do have to empty the stinky canister, but it's quick and far cheaper than calling in the carpet cleaners. If you don't have one, shop vacuums can be purchased for under $100. Compared to professional carpet cleaners it's cheap."

It's a great tip, and it got me thinking about keeping a home clean when you have pets. While I'm perfectly happy to offer advice on pets, advice on cleaning isn't in my repertoire. So I'm turning it over to you.

Give me your tips on cleaning up after pets. Are there techniques and products you can't live without? Let me know at the e-mail address below. I'll use as many as I can in an upcoming column.

And heck, I'll likely use them in my own home as well. I could surely use the help.

PETS ON THE WEB

The raw-food movement is still pretty new, but it's

certainly growing -- if the amount of mail I got on the subject after mentioning it a few weeks ago is any indication. To be sure, feeding a diet of raw meats and bones (along with veggies and some supplements) is not for everyone, and never will be. But the so-called BARF diet (for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) is popular enough that many butchers are no longer surprised to have people ask for cases of chicken backs and turkey necks to feed their pets. While the jury is still out on how healthy the diet is -- many veterinarians consider it a dangerous fad -- it's never harmful to consider the options. Raw-food proponent Dr. Ian Billinghurst's Web site (www.barfworld.com) is pretty commercial -- he's selling his version of the diet, and his books -- but still chock-full of information. If you're considering this diet for your pet, this is one site you need to visit.

THE SCOOP

Pets just keep getting more popular. Nearly two-thirds (62 percent) of all U.S. households keep a pet, up from 56 percent in 1988, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. Cats remain the most popular pets, with 73 million of them sharing our lives compared to 68 million dogs. Looked at another way, however, dogs have a claim on popularity: More households keep dogs (40 million) than keep cats (34.7) million. The difference? People who love cats tend to keep more than one of them. Just to confuse matters further, almost half of all pet-keeping households keep more than one kind of pet.

What's this all costing? About $29 billion a year, which breaks down to around $460 per pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have five cats who are all part of a multi-generation family. Mr. Rolls is the patriarch of my feline brood, and he is definitely the "head cat in charge." I also have two of his children, a son and a daughter. The Rolls family is also blessed with two granddaughters whose mama passed away last year.

The two youngest cats are always trying to attack their aunt. I have to keep them in separate rooms or they pounce on her with the intention of causing her bodily harm. The two males get along with her and she is calm when they are in close proximity. What would cause this hostile behavior?

My cats have all been fixed and none of the females have ever reproduced. Is there anything I can do to stop the fur from flying? -- K.H., via e-mail

A: Although the experts now believe that cats are more social with each other than once believed, cats are still not as happy about living in groups as the pack-focused dog is. And if you think about the way canines and felines hunt, the difference between these carnivores makes more sense.

Cats large and small are mostly solitary hunters, tracking and killing prey on their own. Dogs and wolves have evolved to hunt as a team. The wild relatives of domestic cats generally do not share hunting territory with other cats, while a hunting range of wild dogs or wolves often contains a family unit, not an individual animal.

Because of the team approach to hunting, dogs have developed a way to settle differences within a social structure, usually without resorting to fighting. Ritual postures establish and reinforce the rankings, with high-ranking animals acting differently than their subordinates. Dogs need to get along to survive as hunters; cats don't. Dogs generally work out their differences; cats prefer to stay away from each other when they don't get along.

Problem is, cats often don't get a choice when it comes to who's sharing their space. Most people who like cats keep more than one of them: The national average is 2.1 per household. When you have a long-standing rivalry such as the one in your home, often the best thing to do is keep the cats permanently apart. Look for a part of the home "Aunt Kitty" can call her own, safe from her two snotty nieces. For company's sake, you might consider keeping Auntie and the two boys in one part of the home, and the nieces in the other.

Q: We have a small parrot who has a pretty big cage. A friend wants to give us her budgie. Can we just put him in the cage with our parrot? Will they get along? –- V.B., via e-mail

A: I'm assuming the budgie is being offered along with a cage, and you're thinking of doubling up the birds just so they can have company. Nice thought, but birds are usually better off in their own cages. Some birds are downright aggressive to others, even of their own species. When you throw in a difference in size -- a budgie is pretty small, after all -- you could end up with the little one getting seriously hurt.

Keeping the cages in the same room if you want, but make sure each bird has a "room" of his own.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It may seem odd, but there's a parallel between abductions and dog attacks: Most children who are victimized aren't randomly selected; they're attacked by a person or dog known to them. Just as an abductor is more likely to be someone known to the child -- an estranged parent, say -- a dog involved in a serious attack is more likely to be an animal the child knows, kept by the family, a friend or a relative.

The profile on these dogs is well-known to experts. They're usually kept isolated from the family, often spending their lives on chains. This increases their sense of isolation and their desire to protect territory. They're often untrained and unsocialized, usually young, unneutered males who are just coming into their own as adults and starting to feel -- absent human assistance -- that in their territory, they reign supreme.

Any child who wanders into the reach of such an animal is in grave danger.

If you have such a dog, you must take action. First step: Neutering, to minimize hormone-influenced aggression and territoriality. Then, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can help you train and socialize the animal. If you cannot rehabilitate your dog, you must be certain he is securely contained in an escape-proof area and muzzled while in public. Sadly, for some of these animals, euthanasia is the only answer.

Even if your family dog is a cupcake, your child may still be at risk for a bite. The Humane Society of the United States suggests teaching your children how to behave around strange dogs and how to react if attacked. With the start of school at hand, and with many children walking on streets that may have loose dogs, be sure your children know the following:

-- Never approach a loose dog, even if he seems friendly. Dogs confined in yards and especially on chains should also be avoided. If the dog is with its owner, children should always ask permission before petting and then begin by offering the back of the hand for a sniff. Pat on the neck or chest -- the dog may interpret a pat from above as a dominant gesture. Teach your children to avoid fast or jerky movements.

-- "Be a tree" when a dog approaches, standing straight with feet together, fists under the neck and elbows into the chest. Teach your children to make no eye contact: Some dogs view this as a challenge. Running is a normal response to danger, but it's the worst possible thing to do around a dog, because it triggers the animal's instinct to chase and bite. Many dogs just sniff and leave; teach your children to stay still until the animal walks away, and then back away slowly out of the area.

-- "Feed" the dog a jacket or backpack if attacked, or use a bike to block the dog. These strategies may keep an attacking dog's teeth from connecting on flesh.

-- Act like a log if knocked down -- face down, legs together, curled into a ball with fists covering the back of the neck and forearms over the ears. This position protects vital areas and can keep an attack from turning fatal.

Role-play these lessons with your child until they are ingrained. Dealing with the dangers in your own yard and teaching your children how to cope may spare your child a bite -- and even save a life.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Daily Drool (www.dailydrool.com) serves as the home page for an e-mail list that celebrates the basset hound. The Drool offers health and training information on this low-slung, low-key breed, as well as pictures and sound clips, information on how to find a puppy or adult basset, links to rescue groups, shopping and more. One of the most amusing pages features the basset-related license plates of some Drool members, such as "BASSTMBL" and "DAWGMOM." This site is as informative as it is entertaining. Anyone who has or is thinking about getting a basset hound will find much of interest here.

THE SCOOP

Whenever I need to pick up a little gift for a cat lover, I always go for one of Bob Walker's books, the first of which was "The Cats' House" (Andrews McMeel, $16.95). Walker and his wife, Frances Mooney, live in a modest Southern California house they've remodeled in a spectacularly clever and colorful way for the pleasure and comfort of their cats, with floor-to-ceiling cat trees leading to overhead catwalks that connect from room to room through holes cut in the walls.

The books, like the house, are like nothing else out there, bright and whimsical depictions of what must be some of the happiest cats in the world. I met Walker at a conference a few years back -- "just call me Bobcat," he said, merrily. I found him to be every bit as charming as his books. This makes me feel doubly good about supporting both his work and his happy cats!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've heard that head halters can cause serious injuries if used wrongly. A too-abrupt tug could jerk a dog's head causing neck or spinal injuries, couldn't it? -- A.K., via e-mail

A: Anything's possible, which is why I don't recommend using a head halter with one of those long, reel-type leashes. The force of a running dog hitting the end of a 30-foot line does have the potential to cause injury.

In truth, just about every piece of canine equipment has the potential for problems if used incorrectly. Slip-chain collars can choke a dog or injure his neck. Break-away collars, designed to release a dog who's caught on something, can result in a dog being off-leash when it's least safe, such as next to a busy street. And head halters can jerk a dog's head around.

If you don't know what's right for your dog or how to use it, find a trainer who can help you choose the appropriate equipment and show you how it works. Every piece of training equipment is right for some dogs, but no single item is right for all.

Q: We have a neighbor who is always getting cats and then will not feed them regularly or provide them with medical care. They are covered with fleas, mites and burrs and frequently become ill. Because they aren't altered, the males are very aggressive and the females produce kittens.

Our cats can't set foot outside, and we can't leave a door or window open without her cats coming inside to forage for food or attack our cats.

We have done what we can. We have taken three cats to the animal shelter, treated others for fleas, had a few neutered and found homes for some kittens. We've also paid for emergency medical care -- even surgery -- for injured animals, and have tried to keep the cats fed when they become desperate.

Communication with this neighbor is impossible. We have tried, as have many people before us. She knows her behavior is disruptive and couldn't care less.

We are at our wits' end. Is there anything that can be done about situations like this? We've tried to work with the local animal shelter, but they've made it clear they'd prefer not to have the problem transferred to them. -- G.J., via e-mail

A: You've already done more than most people would in trying to care for the neighbor's cats and, clearly, you and the cats (hers and yours both) need help with this situation.

Try again with local officials, talking directly to the humane investigators in your area, not just the front-desk people at the shelter. Let investigators know that the neighbor is neglecting even the most basic needs of the animals. Talk to municipal officials as well about the nuisance, noise and health problems the cats present. I'd also consider talking to an attorney, especially if her aggressive cats cause injury to yours on your property -- paying a few veterinary bills may get her attention. And see if you can get the neighbors involved: The more people who complain, the more force the complaints have, especially with municipal officials.

It may not seem fair to the cats to take action against the neighbor, since they may end up in the shelter if she's forced to clean up her act. But the best solution for all involved -- including her string of long-suffering pets -- would be if this woman is finally convinced to keep no animals at all.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

No nasty letters this time from the "it's just a cat" crowd.

My column from a few weeks back on the link between animal cruelty and crimes against people drew thousands of responses, flooding my e-mail for days with letters from everyday animal lovers as well as from social workers, therapists, teachers, law enforcement officers, academics, prosecutors, humane investigators, etc.

Many of these experts pointed out the numerous studies linking animal cruelty to crimes against humans, as well as relating gruesome cases they themselves had worked on, where the link was as large as a lumber chain.

"Your connection of animal cruelty with future criminal behavior is accurate," wrote Hiromi Paul Sanders, a therapist specializing in abused children and adolescents, many of whom have engaged in acts of animal cruelty. "Children are very emotionally scarred when parents use threats of or engage in animal cruelty to manage their child's behavior," he wrote. "Your statement that kids become hardened is also accurate because kids often model a parent's behavior, irrespective of its social appropriateness. Kids also utilize animal cruelty as a means of catharsis of pain and hurt, often when they themselves are victims of emotional, physical or sexual abuse."

Sanders notes that FBI profilers have identified three characteristics in children that predict a dangerous future, pointing toward serial murder: uncontrollable urination, fire-setting and animal cruelty. For such children, the therapist warns that intervention is essential.

"I agree that perpetrators of animal cruelty should be held legally accountable, but would add that for animal-abusing children, adolescents and teens, a therapy component ought to be ordered by the sentencing judge, so that the roots of this behavior are uncovered and treated," wrote Sanders. "My bias is that without such treatment, the minor's likelihood of recidivism will remain high."

Another correspondent touched on the either-or aspect of my column, on how some people seem to believe that if you care about animals, you don't care about people.

"I am always amazed at the sort of people you describe," wrote Paul Ernst. "They seem absolutely convinced that those of us who are concerned about cruelty to animals are incapable of feeling concern over cruelty to humans. Their logic is way beyond perplexing.

"These same people will sometimes fault others for donating to animal shelters 'while there are humans freezing and starving in the streets.' They ignore the fact that people who help animals are often the first to come forward to help their fellow humans. It amazes me that they seem to feel that concern for animals blocks out all other compassion."

Jennifer Bergovoy echoed those sentiments: "When the critics argue that I should be more concerned about what happens to humans, I always respond that I must be fortunate, because I have the capability of loving both humans and animals, and can mourn for both their losses."

The responses weren't all in agreement with me, however. Some felt I was saying we should care about animal cruelty only because it too often predicts crimes against humans. I gently reminded these readers that if I didn't care about animals on their own, I wouldn't have spent the last 20 years writing about them, with more than 1,000 columns, hundreds of articles and three books.

I guess that's the either-or argument in reverse: Some people think caring starts with animals, while I think caring includes us all, animals and people both. The overwhelming majority of those who wrote felt the same way.

Which reminds me of one of my favorite sayings (whose author I do not know, I regret to say): "Teaching a child not to step on a caterpillar is as important to the child as it is to the caterpillar."

Thanks to all of you who wrote. While you may have overwhelmed my poor computer, you made my week.

PETS ON THE WEB

Over the years I have reminded readers that "Beware of Dog" signs are not that great an idea. By posting one, you're likely just trying to keep people out of your back yard, but should your dog bite someone, a "Beware of Dog" sign could be seen as an admission that you believed you harbored an aggressive animal. And that could lead to serious legal problems.

After reading a warning in this column, entrepreneur Rob Loomis decided to come up with a solution to the problem –- a sign that protects both pet and property without setting up the pet owner for bigger problems should a bite occur. His stylish metal "Dog in Yard" signs are made of high-quality materials, designed to fit in with any style of housing and not give the "junkyard dog" appearance of cheap signs. The wording alerts people to the existence of a dog without casting aspersions on your friendly pooch.

The sign is slowly becoming available at hardware and home-supply stores, but for now your best bet is to order directly from the Original Pet Postings Web site (www.bigdoorproducts.com). It retails for $14.95. You

can also order by phone, (847) 835-1100.

THE SCOOP

If your bird is bitten or clawed by a cat or dog, you need to get veterinary help right away. Bite or claw wounds are potentially deadly to birds, even if the injury appears minor.

Dogs and cats are able predators, and their jaws are quite capable not only of piercing the skin of a bird but also of crushing internal organs and breaking bones. Even a bird who seems to have escaped an attack with a small bite or scratch can fall victim to infection. Birds with no visible signs of injury can also end up dead without veterinary intervention.

If your bird is attacked, contact your veterinarian right away. Your bird may need to be treated for shock, infection or internal injuries, and very likely should be started on antibiotics as soon as possible.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: For ethical and health reasons, I don't eat meat or buy products made from leather or other parts of animals. I have three cats, and frankly it makes me sick to my stomach to open the cans of cat food and think of the suffering that went into them. Can you offer me a way to have vegetarian pets? –- C.N., via e-mail

A: I understand and respect the choices you've made for yourself. But if you want a pet who'll thrive on a diet without meat, you should adopt a rabbit or other herbivore. If you're going to have carnivores as pets, you'd better get used to the idea of feeding them meals with meat protein, because that's what their bodies are designed for.

Cats require more than a dozen nutrients including vitamins, fatty acids and amino acids, that can't be manufactured in a cat's body and must be obtained from an outside source -- that is, from animal tissues.

Q: Gina, would you please warn people that clumping litter is dangerous to cats? It can cause intestinal blockage and kill them. -– W.N., via e-mail

A. Sorry, but there's no evidence that clumping litter kills cats. The idea that it has is unsubstantiated by any scientific study and unsupported by the widespread clinical experience of veterinarians. I am regularly asked to warn people about the "danger," which suggests that these concerns have become another urban myth spread by well-meaning cat lovers.

It seems the idea that clumping litter is deadly comes from an article in a long-defunct magazine, in which a breeder reported on the death of some kittens and speculated that clumping litter was the cause. That article has more lives than a cat is said to, because I'm e-mailed a copy of it at least once a month.

If you look at the issue another way, it can be argued that clumping litter has, in fact, saved the lives of many cats. That's because studies show that some cats who have chronic problems with using a litter box may choose to do so if the filler is clumping litter. Since behavioral problems such as ignoring the litter box cause many people to dump their cats, any product that helps keep cats in their families is surely saving lives.

Don't be too quick to believe what you read on the Internet. Although there's lots of great information on pets out there, I've also read plenty that worries me -– advice on nutrition, training and medical care that's flat-out wrong and can even be deadly. When in doubt, ask your veterinarian or consult a reliable reference book.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600