Whenever I write about an incident of animal cruelty, I always get a few nasty letters that come awfully close to ... well, not defending what happened, but certainly minimizing the significance of such crimes.

These people nearly always preface their remarks by claiming to like animals. But then they take me to task for not thinking about people, as if caring about animals leaves no room in your heart to feel horror over a crime against a fellow human being.

Typical was a letter I got a couple of years back after writing about Leo, the little dog who was killed when he was snatched from his owner's lap and thrown onto the freeway by a man enraged over a fender-bender. "You wouldn't care if he'd thrown a baby into traffic," wrote a reader who was angry at all the attention the case had generated. "You animal freaks are all alike. It's just a dog, for heaven's sake!"

What the letter writer missed was that the death of Leo was as much a crime against his owner as against a fluffy little dog. The man who killed Leo wanted to hurt his owner, and chose her dog as the means to his end. Anyone familiar with domestic violence will nod in recognition at the connection: It's common for abusers to threaten the lives of pets -- or even kill them, sometimes in front of family members -- to keep a mate terrified and under control.

And that's not the only link between cruelty to animals and crimes against humans.

The prisons are full of violent criminals who became hardened to cruelty by seeing it perpetrated on animals, and then by practicing on animals themselves before moving on to people. Further, some of history's most infamous mass murderers -- Ted Bundy, Albert DeSalvo and Jeffrey Dahmer among them -- honed their "skills" on animals first.

Once it puts down roots, cruelty only grows stronger, becoming bolder as it chooses its victims. A cat, then a child. A dog, then an elderly woman.

I was thinking about the link between animal cruelty and crimes against people in relation to recent events that happened within a couple of days of each other -- the barbecuing of a live kitten by a group of men in Missouri, and the kidnapping and murder of a young girl in Southern California.

There will surely be those who'll fault me for caring about the death of a little gray tabby when a beautiful girl's life has been cut horribly and tragically short. But the fact of the matter is that I care about the kitten not just because I care about animals, but also because I know there's a connection between someone who can torture a kitten and someone who can kill a little girl.

The facts speak for themselves.

It's important to us all to take animal cruelty seriously and prosecute it vigorously, and not minimize it because the victim is "just" an animal. The man responsible for the kitten's death has been charged with a felony, and this is as it should be. For when we fight cruelty against animals, we not only help animals but also spare the human victims that almost always come later.

And that might one day make a difference to the parents of another beautiful little girl.

PETS ON THE WEB

Christmas comes early for pet lovers, with the launch of the online edition of the Merck Veterinary Manual (www.merckvetmanual.com). The print version of this essential reference has been a mainstay in nearly every veterinary hospital since it was first published in 1955. The introduction of an online version immediately makes the site one of the most significant animal-health resources for every pet lover.

Every search of the Merck manual turns up interesting information: Did you know, for example, that based on 1995 U.S. figures, dry foods constituted 58 percent of $3.5 billion spent on dog food, compared with 24.8 percent for canned and 2.6 percent for semi-moist? (The remainder consists of smaller categories, such as frozen.) Of the $2.17 billion spent on cat food, 43.1 percent was classified as dry, as compared with 51.7 percent canned and 2.4 percent semi-moist.

THE SCOOP

Almost any healthy food you fix for yourself can also be shared with your bird, such as pasta, rice, casseroles, meats and cereal. Try to keep fatty and sugary foods out of the mix, along with dairy products. (Because they're not mammals, birds don't have the ability to digest regular or large amounts of dairy products.)

Another cross-species surprise: You can occasionally add dog kibble or monkey food (the latter is often available at bird-supply shops) to your pet bird's meals.

Sharing your meal with your pet bird helps your relationship, too. So knock yourself out fixing fabulous meals you both can enjoy. Just keep your portions separate: Your bird shouldn't eat food that has been in your mouth and vice versa.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I was reading your article on training collars and I do agree with you, for the most part. I own a 6-month-old Border collie/Newfoundland pup named Skip, who takes me for a walk, because he weighs 45 pounds already!

My local pet-store worker, a breeder of champion German shepherds, showed me how to use the training collar. Within 10 minutes, Skip was barely pulling. And when he did decide to pull, a quick reprimand usually stopped it.

I am also taking Skip to obedience training, in the hopes that I won't need to use the training collar soon. Lately, I've tried to attach the leash to his leather collar, using a technique I'm learning in obedience class. I do still put the training collar on him as a backup, should he start pulling too much. -- G.M., via e-mail

A: Your letter makes my point exactly. When used properly, the "choke" collar is a useful piece of training equipment. But it's not meant to be used for life, and it's difficult to use properly.

Before I wrote my column on collars, I spent a few days paying close attention to people walking their dogs. I observed that the overwhelming majority of people who used a "choke" collar were doing so incorrectly -- they either had it on wrong, kept it constantly tight, or both. The collar should be put on so the free-running part goes over the dog's neck, not under it, and it is meant to be tightened for a very brief second and then released.

Because these collars are so difficult to use properly, I've given up on them as a useful tool for most people to train their dogs. Instead, I like to recommend head halters, such as the Gentle Leader, which are easier on both people and dogs. Although I don't like the looks of a head halter -- it looks too much like a muzzle for my taste -- they work very well for many pet lovers and aren't as difficult to use.

Q: We keep our two young dogs (both over 65 pounds and around 2 years old) in the garage when we are not home. It stays pretty cool in there because it is well-insulated, but I feel bad leaving them in there all day long. They're in the house whenever we are, but they are destructive when left alone inside. They've done too much damage to our yard to be left alone out there. We take them on long walks every night and to the dog park on the weekend. Is it OK to leave them in the garage during the day? I feel like I'm not being a good dog-mommy. -- M.J., via e-mail

A: You can stop feeling guilty. If they're cool, safe and provided with water and some good toys, your dogs are fine in the garage while you're gone -- especially since they're getting lots of exercise and companionship when you're home. It's the perfect compromise for dogs who can't be trusted to have the run of the place when you're not around.

You may be preventing a behavior problem by keeping them in your garage. The sound-dampening qualities of an insulated garage minimize noises and other distractions that keep your pets from napping away their day. That will reduce their stress and keep them from barking out of protective instincts or boredom. The garage will also muffle any noise they do make. And I'm sure your neighbors appreciate your dogs being quiet while you're gone!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Cat lovers are notoriously resistant to putting collars and IDs on their pets. Some get tired of replacing the collars their cats keep slipping out of, while others are convinced their roaming darlings will get snagged and hang themselves.

Both groups are taking chances with the lives of their pets. Cat collars and tags are inexpensive insurance against loss. And as for the danger of being collared, humane officials insist your cat is more at risk for being lost and never returned than being hanged by a collar.

So play it safe: If you let your cat roam, give him a good shot at getting a ticket home with a collar and an ID. Even if the worst happens, and someone hits your cat or finds him dead -- sadly common occurrences with a free-roaming pet -- a tag at least gives you a chance that you won't have to keep wondering whether your pet is ever coming home. It's a small consolation, but knowing what happened to your pet beats spending months wondering.

Cat collars are made of lightweight material and are designed with enough give to enable your cat to wriggle free should the collar ever catch on something. Don't get a puppy collar by mistake. Dog collars are meant to prevent escapes, and cat collars are made to enable them. The fit should be snug but not uncomfortably so -- you should be able to slide your little finger underneath. (The fit on a dog's collar should be looser, since they aren't equipped with an elastic panel.)

After you get the right collar, get a tag. ID tags come in metal or high-impact plastic in a variety of colors and shapes (I'm personally fond of red hearts for my pets). Because cat tags are small, don't bother putting your cat's name on it. She's not going to answer to it anyway. Instead, use the space to put phone numbers so that whoever finds your cat can locate you, or a friend, neighbor or relative -- day or night. If you're concerned about dangling tags, look for those that attach flat to the collar.

Although it's not a substitute for a collar and tags, you ought to also consider getting your pet microchipped. The microchip is permanent identification no bigger than a grain of rice, which a veterinarian imbeds under the skin over your pet's shoulder blades by using a large needle. (But don't worry: One yowl is about all you'll hear, and then the job's done!)

If you go the microchip route, be sure to register your pet with a service such as AKC Companion Animal Recovery (800-252-7894), which offers 24-hour match-up service 365 days a year. The one-time cost to register is $12.50, and although the service was set up in conjunction with one chip manufacturer, you can register whatever brand of chip is being offered in your area (and any kind of pet is eligible, even though the service is run by the nation's dominant registry for purebred dogs). If a shelter with a chip scanner ends up with your pet, the service releases your number so you can be reunited with your cat quickly.

Many lost pets are not found by shelters but by neighbors. And neighbors don't have microchip scanners in their collection of home appliances. Which is why, although chips are wonderful for permanent ID, it's also important to keep your roaming cat collared and tagged.

PETS ON THE WEB

When I was growing up, I wanted to be a veterinarian. By the time I got to high school, it became clear that I'd be better off as a writer -- I just wasn't well-suited for a career involving so much math and science. For those who haven't given up on a dream of becoming a veterinarian, the Web site of the Association of American Veterinary Medical Colleges (www.aavmc.org) is a must-see visit on the Internet. The site offers advice on preparing for veterinary school, statistics on how many applicants to veterinarian programs get accepted (about a third) and forecasts on career potential for new grads.

THE SCOOP

The bed of a pickup truck in the sun is as hot as a griddle, and feels about as comfortable for the dog whose feet are touching that hot metal. Riding without restraints in the back of a truck is never safe, and it's often uncomfortable for dogs and is illegal in some states. The best situation for the comfort and safety of your dog is to bring him into the cab of the truck, or leave him at home.

If you must transport your pet in the back of a pickup, do it in an airline shipping crate, properly secured to the bed. A crate will keep the animal from jumping or being thrown from the truck, and will provide shade and cooler footing until you get where you're going. Remember, though, that a crate isn't much protection against the baking sun and should not be used to hold your dog once you've reached your destination.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Recently, someone brought me a budgie who had flown into their back yard. She was coaxed down from a high branch with food and captured. Now she is with me. I ran a newspaper ad for three days without any replies. The sad part is her owners apparently just let her fly. Her wings were not clipped, which allowed her to go anywhere. There's no way to know where she came from, how far she had flown, or how long she had been in the wild.

My veterinarian said that there is a population of escaped pet birds in our area. I find this appalling. How callous can people be to deliberately release their pets into the wild? I don't have much sympathy either for folks who fail to keep wings trimmed and then their birds accidentally escape. Would you mention that people need to keep the wings of their pet birds trimmed and not let birds fly free? -- G.M., via e-mail

A: In many parts of the country, colonies of former pet birds survive and even thrive in their new habitats. Although warm places such as South Florida and Southern California are most hospitable to newly wild birds, parrots have been known to survive even in places as bitterly cold as Illinois and New York.

Although some birds will make the transition to feral living, many will not. And those who do will sometimes displace native birds, causing damage to the natural ecosystem. Both situations are compelling reasons to make sure a pet bird remains in captivity -- and that means keeping wings trimmed.

Wing trims also protect birds in the home. My "Birds For Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, reports treating a constant flow of pet birds who have been injured after flying into ceiling fans, sliding glass doors or even pots of boiling water on the stove.

So, yes, it's very important to keep wings trimmed. Furthermore, an improper trim can be physically and emotionally damaging. So it's important to learn from someone who knows proper technique, such as an avian veterinarian or experienced bird groomer.

Q: We have a new kitten, and she runs behind our vehicles as we are backing up. We have not hit her yet, but at this rate it seems inevitable. Do you have any suggestions on how to prevent this? -- T.P., via e-mail

A: Have you considered making her an indoor cat? Cars aren't the only hazards your pet will face if she continues to roam free. She's also at risk from dogs (or coyotes, in some areas), cat-hating neighbors, spilled chemicals such as antifreeze and more.

I recently visited friends in another state. I see them about once a year, and every time I visit, it seems as if there is a death in their free-roaming cat family. The calamities that befall these pets are typical: In the last three years, one was killed by a neighbor's dog, one was hit and killed by a car and the third just disappeared.

My friends and I agree to disagree on the subject of letting their cats roam -- they believe cats have to be "free." I can't help but feel even more sad when the loss of each wonderful pet was entirely preventable, especially knowing as I do that cats can be perfectly content as indoor pets.

A short life and tragic end are the fate of too many free-roaming cats. If you want to keep your pet safe, keep her inside.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My dogs are not, by preference, couch potatoes. They want to leave the house every time I do. And if they could, they'd always choose not the mundane errand-running trips of my ordinary existence, but outings more geared to the athletically minded -- day hikes and camping trips, dog parks and river runs.

Thanks to their constant lobbying, I do a lot of what my dogs like to do. Because I find their joy infectious, I leave them behind only when I must, and I am constantly trying out gear designed to make getting out with dogs easier and more fun. As a result, I've run across a couple of companies that make dog-friendly products of such high quality that I look for their brands when I'm shopping for something new.

The first such company is Canine Hardware, maker of a toy you can't go to a dog park without seeing, and a new one that's popping up wherever dogs play fetch.

The first, a tennis-ball tosser known as the Chuckit, is nothing short of revolutionary, especially for people with wimpy throwing arms like mine. The Chuckit is a long wand of flexible plastic, with a handle on one end and a cup for holding a standard tennis ball on the other. You press the cup against the tennis ball -- no touching the slimy, spit-covered thing -- and then raise the device over your head, flinging it in a forward motion. The Chuckit then catapults the tennis ball an amazing distance. Even I can fling the ball nearly half the length of a football field.

I used to use an old tennis racket to whack the ball far enough for my big dogs, but using that strategy, I'd still have to touch the slimy ball -- ugh! The Chuckit is simply the best tool I've found for exercising a dog who loves to retrieve. The product retails for less than $12, including a two-tone tennis ball.

The company's newest sports toy is the Flying Squirrel (about $15), a well-designed flying disc. The colorful toy, make of durable soft material, is shaped with four points to make it easy to grab and throw. When it lands, it sits up a little on its "legs" to make it easier for the dog to pick up. It's another great dog-friendly product!

I also love the Outward Hound travel gear, and what a clever name! Over the years I've purchased their travel bowls, made of soft, collapsible material, as well as their reflective safety vests for walking dogs at night. My favorite purchase is their doggy backpack, which my big retriever Benjamin wears when we do talks, book-signings or other public events. The pack fits well and is easy to put on and take off.

With the addition of my toy-breed puppy Chase, I've been delighted to find that Outward Hound makes carriers for small dogs. I bought the one that wears like a shoulder bag with an adjustable strap; the pup rides in it without wriggling, and it's a comfortable fit for me.

Outward Hound also makes gear bags, fanny packs, canine life preservers and small carriers that fit on leashes to hold cleanup bags and keys. The products come in a selection of bright colors and are made from sturdy, wipe-clean material. Prices range from less than $8 for collapsible bowls to around $40 for the large backpack.

Can you get out and about without gear? Sure, you can. But I have found over the years that purchasing a few high-quality, long-lasting items makes taking the dogs out more pleasant for us all.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Chuckit can be found in most pet-supply stores, as well as selected items from the Outward Hound line. For the complete lineup of products from these manufacturers, visit their Web sites. For the Chuckit ball tosser and Flying Squirrel soft flying disc, visit Canine Hardware (www.caninehardware.com). Outward Hound's collection of travel bags, leash attachments, portable dishes, canine backpacks, vests and life preservers can be found at the Kyjen Company's Web site (www.kyjen.com)

THE SCOOP

While it takes expert analysis to tell the boys from the girls in many species of pet birds, there's no such difficulty when you're looking at an eclectus parrot. The males are a vivid kelly green, while the females are bright scarlet red, except for a "sweater vest" of royal blue. Male or female, the eclectus is one gorgeous bird.

If you want one of these beauties for your own, though, be aware that they can be difficult to keep. For one thing, they require a higher percentage of fresh fruits and vegetables than other parrots do to keep them healthy, and the eclectus fares particularly poorly on a diet of seeds. (And this isn't recommended for any parrot, from budgie to macaw.) Eclectus parrots are also believed to be very sensitive to changes in their environment. They're probably not suitable for a beginner, but can be a wonderful addition to the household of someone with serious bird-savvy.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have two happy and healthy adult cats, both spayed females, who have lived with me for about six years. I am considering adopting a dog and would like to rescue one from a shelter. I've noticed that certain shelters indicate whether each dog gets along with cats. How accurate do you think this information is? And is age a factor -- that is, would a puppy be more likely to get along with them? What about gender? I want to do all I can to prevent traumatizing the cats. -- N.D., via e-mail

A: Shelters and rescue groups can find out this information by getting it from the dog's previous owners, or by exposing the dog to a cat and evaluating the response.

The latter isn't as awful as it sounds. They'd never test a dog who's clearly aggressive (such animals never make it to the adoption kennels), and they don't haul out some terrified guest kitty to be the guinea pig, so to speak. The tester cat is usually a permanent resident of the shelter, often a staff favorite who has proven to be calm and disdainfully confident around dogs. Dogs who are aggressive toward the cat (but not people) are so noted, as are those who are too friendly (and will need training to leave a cat alone), are friendly but not intrusive (ideal), or couldn't care less about the cat (also fine). Ask the folks at the shelter how they determine cat-tolerance in the case of any dog you're interested in.

As for breeding, gender or age, it doesn't make much difference, as each dog is an individual. For example, Shelties generally are thought to get along well with cats, but my sweet Sheltie Andy, who died a few months ago at the age of 15, dedicated his life to attempting to tree every cat he saw. (After he died, I found out that his lifelong nemesis, the neighbor's marmalade tabby, died just a few days before Andy did. I think Andy outlived George out of sheer stubbornness.)

In general, I'd look for a quiet, gentle and well-mannered adult dog of 3 to 5 years of age or older who falls into the friendly but not intrusive category, preferably one who has lived with cats before. You'll find lots of such dogs in the shelters or rescue groups, if you're patient about looking.

When you find your dog, don't force the pets together. Let the cats decided how much interaction they want, and always offer them an escape route to a dog-free area. It may take a month or more for the situation to settle down.

Q: We're thinking of letting our two cats out into the back yard, but I'm concerned about the dangers they'd face. What do you think about those fence toppers they use at cat sanctuaries? They're made of mesh or plastic, and act as an overhang that prevents the cat from jumping over the fence. I've seen kits online, and I think this may be a good way to let the cats explore the outdoors a bit but still keep them confined in a safe area. Any suggestions? -- C.F., via e-mail

A: Cat fences are wonderful! They allow a cat some outdoor time without letting them roam beyond the yard. Be aware, though, that cat fences will not slow down a predator such as a coyote. So if you live in a rural or suburban region, you shouldn't even let your cats out into a cat-fenced yard. You can buy ready-made kits from Cat Fence-In (www.catfencein.com), or find instructions for a do-it-yourself setup from the Web site of Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org/ic_fs_fence.html).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600