Everything in nature is there for a reason -- from opposable thumbs to brightly colored feathers, it all serves a purpose. That thought had me contemplating a puppy -- as I was doing at 3 a.m. on a warm spring night -- and wondering what evolutionary forces came into play to make babies of all kinds so utterly adorable.

While I can't speak to the matter of the baby wildebeest, elk or muskrat, I have a pretty good idea about puppies, kittens, baby parrots and the youngsters of most every other critter we keep as pets.

They're adorable to keep us from wanting to kill them at 3 a.m. when they need to go outside, or anytime when they're climbing the draperies, attacking our bare toes with needle-sharp baby teeth or chewing up our favorite pair of shoes.

Sometimes, you want to throttle them. And then ... that face! Suddenly, you're powerless to do anything except swoop them up and croon at them. For being adorable. For being babies. For being yours.

Which is why, at 3 a.m. on a warm spring night, instead of being annoyed at having my sleep interrupted, I found myself gazing down with delight at 6 pounds of puppy, praising him warmly for doing what comes oh-so-naturally, but in the yard instead of the house.

After almost 16 years during which I adopted dogs as needs-a-new-home adults and swore I preferred it that way, I am raising a puppy again.

I wanted a small dog, to complement my big dogs and also allow me take a pet with me in the cabin when I travel by plane. I wanted a calm and outgoing breed, and one that's relatively quiet. A dog who didn't need a dreadful lot of grooming for the dog shows I've been known to dabble in. And one, finally, who despite his small size acts like a big dog.

All those traits came together in a Cavalier King Charles spaniel, more specifically in the youngster I've named Danny, who arrived in my home at the age of 11 weeks and has hardly allowed us a quiet moment since.

The retrievers aren't amused. Benjamin, whose head is bigger than Danny's wiggly little body, takes advantage of his size to remove himself from the puppy's reach, jumping over low baby gates into adjacent rooms or hopping into the chair in the living room that is his favorite place for sleeping (aside, of course, from my bed). Heather refuses to be so inconvenienced, preferring instead to stay in place and discipline the little pest with the swift actions of any good dog-mother -- a low warning growl, a stop-that-now glare, or for the most serious infractions, a firm pinning of the puppy to the ground with paw or muzzle.

The puppy, who initially believed the retrievers to be jumbo-sized chew toys, is now learning to show some respect for his elders. Puppy cuteness doesn't count for much with other dogs.

For my part, I hear from too many readers with dog problems that could have been prevented to let even the most adorable puppy get away with all that much. Fortunately, the emphasis in modern dog training is on the positive -- on structuring the environment to prevent bad behavior while rewarding good behavior. With such a plan, punishment is largely a thing of the past.

Which is a good thing, because with a puppy as adorable as Danny, all I want to do is tell him, over and over, what a clever and good puppy he is.

Oh, it's wonderful to have a puppy in the house again! Even at 3 a.m. on a warm spring night.

PETS ON THE WEB

OK, so they're not pets -- and shouldn't be -- but crocodiles were interesting even before that crazy Australian Steve Irwin became famous for mud-wrestling with them. The Crocodilians Web site (www.crocodilian.com) offers a lot of information about these fascinating beasties, compiled by people who clearly admire them. The site is scientific in its approach, but that doesn't stop it from being entertaining. My favorite area: sound files of croc vocalizations, from the bellows of a mating male to the first cries of a hatchling.

THE SCOOP

Tired of cleaning up hairballs? Add some fiber to your cat's diet. A little bit of canned pumpkin added to your pet's regular meals -- mixing into wet food is ideal -- will help the fur ingested by grooming to pass through the digestive system, instead of being thrown up onto your carpets. Regular combing and brushing also helps, especially if your pet has long hair. The fur you catch when grooming your cat won't end up as a hairball, or as hair you'll be cleaning off your clothes Canned pumpkin has an advantage over oil-based hairball remedies: Overusing the latter can decrease the absorption of some essential nutrients.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Don't think for a minute that your dog is safe in a dog park. In a matter of seconds our 13-pound corgi-mix, Newman, was in the jaws of a female pit-bull mix. Newman's neck and stomach were ripped wide open.

We rushed Newman to the emergency veterinary hospital. On our way to the car one of the owners of the dog who attacked him said, "Please come back so I can get your name to pay the vet bill." En route to the vet my wife and I noticed we had both been bitten. Did the pit bull have her shots? Who knows?

After dropping Newman and my wife at the veterinary hospital, I returned to the dog park, only to find it empty. What do you suggest we do now? I've included a picture of Newman, all stitched up. -- R.D., via e-mail

A: As I've written before, people with aggressive dogs have no business taking their pets into a dog park. The first thing you should do: Report the incident to your local animal-control authorities. You've both been bitten by a dog with unknown vaccination status. The dog must be found and determined to be free of rabies for your safety.

Newman is a mess, to be sure, but I'm so relieved by the picture you sent to see that he'll recover.

I agree with you that dog parks have their risks. In fact, in addition to arguing that problem dogs stay home, I also believe that small ones should, too. You never know what will happen when dogs mix it up, but you can be sure that if a fight breaks out, the little dog will get the worst of it.

Some dog parks have two areas -- one for big dogs, one for smaller ones. This is a great idea.

I love dog parks, and take my retrievers to them all the time. While I have been known to strongly suggest to other dog-park users that they remove their potentially dangerous dog, I usually find it easier to whistle up my dogs and leave. People with aggressive dogs usually come in one of three varieties: They're either proud of their tough animal, clueless of the danger or in complete denial. Whichever it is, I don't want to take a chance with my dogs around theirs.

Your local officials will likely be able to find the dog, and when the animal is located, the owners may pony up for the veterinary bills, as they first indicated they would. If they balk, you may want to consult an attorney for advice.

Q: I read your column regarding barking dogs. What about citronella collars? Are they effective? Our dog barks whenever people approach the house, and the neighbors are tired of it. -- M.D., via e-mail

A: I'm very much a fan of citronella collars, which spray a harmless mist from underneath the dog's muzzle when he barks. They work well for many dogs in interrupting undesirable behavior. If you can't find the collar locally, you can buy it from catalog and online retailers such as Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com). It retails for around $120.

The citronella collar is a useful tool, but it's not a magic fix for barking. Is your dog barking because he's an outdoor pet who can see the neighborhood comings and goings and has nothing better to do than yap? Bored outside pets are often chronic barkers, and slapping a bark collar on such animals isn't the entire answer.

Look at the whole picture. Does your dog need more exercise? Can you bring him in and so reduce the sounds and sights that trigger barking? These two things alone will often reduce barking, or at least reduce the nuisance factor for your neighbors.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Of all the readers I heard from following my column on giving pills to cats, I got the biggest laugh from a fellow who perfectly captured the challenge of keeping kitties medicated.

"Tried your pill-giving method on our big orange tomcat," e-mailed Soap Dowell from the Sacramento, Calif., suburb of Gold River. "Expect to be up and around for Independence Day."

Well, Mr. Dowell, here's hoping your supply of Band-Aids is well-stocked. And read on for some pill-popping suggestions from cat-loving readers:

-- "My cat likes people food, such as tapioca, but he won't eat it from a dish on the floor. It has to be spoon-fed. When the veterinarian gave me antibiotics for him, I put the dose in a dropper, put a dab of orange yogurt on a teaspoon and added a few drops of the medicine from the dropper. After a few bites, all the medicine was in him."

-- "My method involves getting the cat's mind on something other than what you are doing to him. I set an open tin of cat tuna on the counter, then set down the pills or open container of fluid medication. I put the cat just far enough away from the food so he can't start eating immediately. Give the cat a moment to savor the odor, perhaps begin to salivate, then quickly open the mouth, pop in the pill or fluid, and push the food under the cat's nose. Allow him to eat a bit of it so he feels rewarded."

-- "In my work I have used a lot of syringes, and I would not recommend them for providing fluid medication to a cat. The ends are too flat and many have that awkward double ring of plastic flanges. A plastic eyedropper is the way to go. These days most fluid medication comes with a marked plastic dropper."

-- "Run the pill or capsule under a little water before putting it down the cat's throat. They'll swallow it a little more easily."

-- "Don't bother trying to disguise medicines in food. Cats will lick a pill perfectly clean of food or, if the pill is crushed, will eat only part (or none) of the food so you won't know whether he's gotten a full dose. Instead, coat the pill very lightly with butter or margarine to help it slip down more easily."

-- "Have the cat seated on a table and have the pill and a pencil with an eraser at hand. Secure his body with your left arm, tip his head back into your left hand, gently pressing his mouth open with left thumb and middle finger. With your right hand quickly drop the pill into the back of his mouth, pick up the pencil, and with the eraser end lightly tap the pill down his throat. He'll swallow immediately." (Another variation on this came from a reader who secures the pill to the eraser with a dab of Vaseline and then pushes the pencil, eraser-end first, to the back of the cat's throat.)

-- "If the pill is small enough to fit through a straw, tape one end of the straw shut. (Or if the pill is too big, cut the pill in half.) Then drop the pill down the straw. Open the cat's mouth and aim the straw into the cat's throat, behind the tongue. The pill will fall out of the straw, into the cat's throat."

-- "We crush the pill in about a teaspoon of canned cat food. This works best when it is a fresh can of something she likes, of course. If we have any doubt about how well received the food will be (she does get finicky, of course), we then use about a half-teaspoon of hairball remedy. The flavor is strong enough to disguise any medicinal taste, and she, like most cats, loves it. As a bonus, we are preventing hairballs at the same time."

-- "When it comes to applying eye ointment, I first thoroughly wash my hands. Then I put a short line of ointment on one finger and -- using the other hand to hold the cat's eye open and head steady -- wipe the ointment from my finger into the lower eyelid. I then close the eye, release the cat, offer an already prepared bowl of tuna and then wash my hands again."

-- "I am a registered veterinary technician, and this is how I demonstrate it to our clients: Grasp the cat firmly (but gently) by the scruff of the neck and lift up so the cat's front feet are just off the ground and the cat is looking at the ceiling. The cat will be relaxed and you can easily open the mouth and slip a pill in. Follow with a small amount of water in a syringe or eyedropper. Pets get pills stuck in their throats, too! Also, the liquid will induce the cat to swallow."

Several cat owners as well as veterinarians and veterinary technicians pointed out that there are options to pills. If you absolutely can't "pill" your cat, talk to your veterinarian about getting the medication in a different form. One possibility may be a gel that is absorbed through the skin.

Thanks to all the readers who offered suggestions. Because of your advice, a lot more cats will be getting the medication they need to stay healthy.

PETS ON THE WEB

I don't find many bird-care Web sites I like -- too many rely on old wives' tales and home remedies that are years out of date and can be dangerous. But Wingwise (www.wingwise.com) is one I can recommend without reservation. The site is impressively broad in its scope, with information on basic care such as nutrition, common illnesses and emergency situations. I especially like the pop-up glossary feature: If you click on a highlighted word, the definition comes up in a small new window.

THE SCOOP

All pets need a ready supply of water, especially when the weather gets hot. For pets who drink from water bottles (such as birds, rabbits and hamsters), touch the tip of the bottle's neck with your finger a couple of times a day to be sure there's no clog. For outdoor pets, be sure the water source is protected from the sun and is in a place where your pet can always get to it. To keep things cool for pets who get their water in a dish, freeze water in margarine tubs and put one or more of these ice blocks into your pet's water dish before leaving for work.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just adopted a 10-month-old semi-longhaired female cat from the humane society. Her actual breed is not important to me, but I'd like to be able to describe her color correctly. She was originally listed as a tortie, but then it was changed to calico. She is a combination of solid gold, black and white with some tiger stripes on her front legs. What is the difference between a calico and a tortie, or are they synonymous? Do the terms calico and tortie refer to a breed or a color? -- E.P., via e-mail

A: Calico and tortoiseshell refer to markings, not a breed. In fact, the calico and tortie patterns turn up in many different breeds of pedigreed cats. The difference: The orange, black and white colors are distinct, separate and solid patches on the calico, while on the tortie the colors are swirled together.

Your cat sounds like what my mom used to call "Heinz 57," a mix of a lot of genetic influences, with both the genes for the calico/tortie and the tabby patterns in place.

I'd just call her "beautiful" and be done with it. Your veterinarian will likely put her down on the medical record as a DSH or DLH: domestic shorthair or domestic longhair.

Q: What can I give my dog for pain after surgery? -- S.R., via e-mail

A: Although a lot of people give over-the-counter people medications to their pets regularly -- and I admit to being one of them, at times -- I prefer to recommend that you check with your veterinarian.

Chances are you'll be told to give buffered or coated aspirin, or you may be given a prescription for one of the handful of pain-relievers common in veterinary practice. The decision of what to give (if anything) should be made with the help of your veterinarian. Communication with this health-care professional is key to getting the best care for your pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Spring is such a lovely time, an explosion of color and life displacing the gloom of what sometimes seems winter unending. But I always have mixed feelings about this time of year because of kitten season.

Already I hear the yowling of tomcats fighting for mates, the cries of cats in the throes of creating new life. Already I've seen a sign offering free kittens, from a box in front of my grocery store. And I know we've just started, with more fights, more matings and more kittens nonstop until the weather turns cold again.

I love everything about kittens. But the joy of their company is not enough to offset the sadness I feel after having spent too much time seeing what happens to those who don't find homes. Year after year, more kittens are born than are wanted or will be cared for, and for those, the future is grim.

The answer? Spaying and neutering, of course.

According to a survey by the American Animal Hospital Association, nearly 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. What do these people know that you don't? Here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering, or altering, is also used to describe both procedures.

Although the procedures are among the most common, a lot of people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Enjoy the full potential of a beautiful spring by making sure that your cat, at least, isn't part of the problem of unwanted kittens. There's just no reason not to. Whether your cat has had a litter or is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. Call your veterinarian or local humane group to get your pet altered. Don't let money be the delay: Many communities offer low-cost or even no-cost programs.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Kennel Club's Canine Health Foundation (www.akcchf.org) funds research into improving the health of dogs. The foundation's Web site offers information on how pet lovers can help, along with listings of research projects in progress. More resources are promised, including information on inheritable diseases and how to prevent them. Recently, the foundation added an area where visitors can ask questions of experts in such subjects as training, breed characteristics and health.

THE SCOOP

A better ride for pets is in the works. The American Kennel Club's magazine, the Gazette, reports in its May issue that GMC is putting features in one of its SUVs to make the vehicle more practical to pet lovers. The Envoy Pet Pro model will offer air vents to the cargo area, a vacuum cleaner, pet-safety belts, a built-in dog ramp, slide-out tray in the cargo area, rear-window shades and storage units designed to carry dog gear. GM's move follows one by Swedish manufacturer Saab, which has offered pet-friendly features in its wagon for a couple of years.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: One of my golden retrievers has a problem with chewing his toys to pieces. He has never chewed anything that doesn't belong to him. However, if he's given a tennis ball, Kong, teddy bear, etc., it's seek-and-destroy time.

The only toys we can give him are solid rubber balls, which work quite well. The only issue is, these toys are expensive, and tennis balls are much more affordable.

I may have to just live with his quirky behavior (at least he's not chewing my couch). But any suggestions would be appreciated. -- Y.M., via e-mail

A: Although it's not the answer you're looking for, I think you should do more than live with the behavior -- you should be grateful for it!

Chewing is a natural, healthy behavior. It's also great exercise that's good for your pet. Plus, your golden is choosing something that you don't mind him chewing, aside from the expense. That makes you one of the lucky ones: I get lots of letters from people whose dogs chew things that aren't so replaceable.

Check out your pet-supply store for toys made to stand up to determined chewers. Although the Kool Kongs (made for water retrieving) aren't designed for chewers, the company does make an Ultra King Kong model that stands up to a lot of heavy-duty jaw action. The rubber balls you mention are great, as is the Galileo dog toy. Check out catalogs and online suppliers to see if you can save money by buying a half-dozen or more of the same toy at a time.

You might also try increasing the frequency and duration of your dog's exercise as well, to help burn off some of that excess energy he's channeling into chewing.

Finally, a word about tennis balls. They should never, ever be offered as chew toys, although they're fine for supervised games of fetch. I've heard of cases where tennis balls have killed dogs! That has happened when dog compresses a ball with his jaw, and then it pops into his airway and expands, blocking the dog's ability to breathe.

With my retrievers, I take tennis balls to the dog park for retrieving, but I bring out the Kongs and other sturdy toys for times when all they want to do is chew. They never touch a tennis ball except for retrieving.

Q: I have two Saint Bernard pups, a male and female 13 and 12 weeks old. I have owned Saints before, but never two at once. My problem: They fight constantly. Regardless of how hard I try to structure their time, they would rather battle it out wherever they are.

I have been told this is what pups do; however, I feel they should be able to understand this behavior is not acceptable all the time. Am I doing more harm than good by interfering? -- T.M., via e-mail

A: Play -- even rough play as these two are engaged in -- is perfectly normal with puppies and even with adult dogs. And that's what I'm guessing is going on with these youngsters -- rough play, not really fighting.

But as normal as play is to a pair of puppies, unless you want a couple of 100-pound-plus dogs trashing your house, you'll need to set limits for these youngsters now, letting them know what's acceptable when they're inside.

You've taken on a big task raising two puppies together, especially two that are going to be as big as these ones are. I don't recommend what you've done, by the way, suggesting to most people that they space the puppies at least a year apart, or adopt an adult dog and then a puppy. You have the canine equivalent of having more than one kid in diapers -- and that's a lot of work.

Don't let these puppies raise each other. Spend time with each one individually, working on your bonding and on basic training. I recommend you find a good trainer or behaviorist who can guide you over the rough spots; ask your veterinarian for a referral.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600