Of all the readers I heard from following my column on giving pills to cats, I got the biggest laugh from a fellow who perfectly captured the challenge of keeping kitties medicated.

"Tried your pill-giving method on our big orange tomcat," e-mailed Soap Dowell from the Sacramento, Calif., suburb of Gold River. "Expect to be up and around for Independence Day."

Well, Mr. Dowell, here's hoping your supply of Band-Aids is well-stocked. And read on for some pill-popping suggestions from cat-loving readers:

-- "My cat likes people food, such as tapioca, but he won't eat it from a dish on the floor. It has to be spoon-fed. When the veterinarian gave me antibiotics for him, I put the dose in a dropper, put a dab of orange yogurt on a teaspoon and added a few drops of the medicine from the dropper. After a few bites, all the medicine was in him."

-- "My method involves getting the cat's mind on something other than what you are doing to him. I set an open tin of cat tuna on the counter, then set down the pills or open container of fluid medication. I put the cat just far enough away from the food so he can't start eating immediately. Give the cat a moment to savor the odor, perhaps begin to salivate, then quickly open the mouth, pop in the pill or fluid, and push the food under the cat's nose. Allow him to eat a bit of it so he feels rewarded."

-- "In my work I have used a lot of syringes, and I would not recommend them for providing fluid medication to a cat. The ends are too flat and many have that awkward double ring of plastic flanges. A plastic eyedropper is the way to go. These days most fluid medication comes with a marked plastic dropper."

-- "Run the pill or capsule under a little water before putting it down the cat's throat. They'll swallow it a little more easily."

-- "Don't bother trying to disguise medicines in food. Cats will lick a pill perfectly clean of food or, if the pill is crushed, will eat only part (or none) of the food so you won't know whether he's gotten a full dose. Instead, coat the pill very lightly with butter or margarine to help it slip down more easily."

-- "Have the cat seated on a table and have the pill and a pencil with an eraser at hand. Secure his body with your left arm, tip his head back into your left hand, gently pressing his mouth open with left thumb and middle finger. With your right hand quickly drop the pill into the back of his mouth, pick up the pencil, and with the eraser end lightly tap the pill down his throat. He'll swallow immediately." (Another variation on this came from a reader who secures the pill to the eraser with a dab of Vaseline and then pushes the pencil, eraser-end first, to the back of the cat's throat.)

-- "If the pill is small enough to fit through a straw, tape one end of the straw shut. (Or if the pill is too big, cut the pill in half.) Then drop the pill down the straw. Open the cat's mouth and aim the straw into the cat's throat, behind the tongue. The pill will fall out of the straw, into the cat's throat."

-- "We crush the pill in about a teaspoon of canned cat food. This works best when it is a fresh can of something she likes, of course. If we have any doubt about how well received the food will be (she does get finicky, of course), we then use about a half-teaspoon of hairball remedy. The flavor is strong enough to disguise any medicinal taste, and she, like most cats, loves it. As a bonus, we are preventing hairballs at the same time."

-- "When it comes to applying eye ointment, I first thoroughly wash my hands. Then I put a short line of ointment on one finger and -- using the other hand to hold the cat's eye open and head steady -- wipe the ointment from my finger into the lower eyelid. I then close the eye, release the cat, offer an already prepared bowl of tuna and then wash my hands again."

-- "I am a registered veterinary technician, and this is how I demonstrate it to our clients: Grasp the cat firmly (but gently) by the scruff of the neck and lift up so the cat's front feet are just off the ground and the cat is looking at the ceiling. The cat will be relaxed and you can easily open the mouth and slip a pill in. Follow with a small amount of water in a syringe or eyedropper. Pets get pills stuck in their throats, too! Also, the liquid will induce the cat to swallow."

Several cat owners as well as veterinarians and veterinary technicians pointed out that there are options to pills. If you absolutely can't "pill" your cat, talk to your veterinarian about getting the medication in a different form. One possibility may be a gel that is absorbed through the skin.

Thanks to all the readers who offered suggestions. Because of your advice, a lot more cats will be getting the medication they need to stay healthy.

PETS ON THE WEB

I don't find many bird-care Web sites I like -- too many rely on old wives' tales and home remedies that are years out of date and can be dangerous. But Wingwise (www.wingwise.com) is one I can recommend without reservation. The site is impressively broad in its scope, with information on basic care such as nutrition, common illnesses and emergency situations. I especially like the pop-up glossary feature: If you click on a highlighted word, the definition comes up in a small new window.

THE SCOOP

All pets need a ready supply of water, especially when the weather gets hot. For pets who drink from water bottles (such as birds, rabbits and hamsters), touch the tip of the bottle's neck with your finger a couple of times a day to be sure there's no clog. For outdoor pets, be sure the water source is protected from the sun and is in a place where your pet can always get to it. To keep things cool for pets who get their water in a dish, freeze water in margarine tubs and put one or more of these ice blocks into your pet's water dish before leaving for work.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just adopted a 10-month-old semi-longhaired female cat from the humane society. Her actual breed is not important to me, but I'd like to be able to describe her color correctly. She was originally listed as a tortie, but then it was changed to calico. She is a combination of solid gold, black and white with some tiger stripes on her front legs. What is the difference between a calico and a tortie, or are they synonymous? Do the terms calico and tortie refer to a breed or a color? -- E.P., via e-mail

A: Calico and tortoiseshell refer to markings, not a breed. In fact, the calico and tortie patterns turn up in many different breeds of pedigreed cats. The difference: The orange, black and white colors are distinct, separate and solid patches on the calico, while on the tortie the colors are swirled together.

Your cat sounds like what my mom used to call "Heinz 57," a mix of a lot of genetic influences, with both the genes for the calico/tortie and the tabby patterns in place.

I'd just call her "beautiful" and be done with it. Your veterinarian will likely put her down on the medical record as a DSH or DLH: domestic shorthair or domestic longhair.

Q: What can I give my dog for pain after surgery? -- S.R., via e-mail

A: Although a lot of people give over-the-counter people medications to their pets regularly -- and I admit to being one of them, at times -- I prefer to recommend that you check with your veterinarian.

Chances are you'll be told to give buffered or coated aspirin, or you may be given a prescription for one of the handful of pain-relievers common in veterinary practice. The decision of what to give (if anything) should be made with the help of your veterinarian. Communication with this health-care professional is key to getting the best care for your pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Spring is such a lovely time, an explosion of color and life displacing the gloom of what sometimes seems winter unending. But I always have mixed feelings about this time of year because of kitten season.

Already I hear the yowling of tomcats fighting for mates, the cries of cats in the throes of creating new life. Already I've seen a sign offering free kittens, from a box in front of my grocery store. And I know we've just started, with more fights, more matings and more kittens nonstop until the weather turns cold again.

I love everything about kittens. But the joy of their company is not enough to offset the sadness I feel after having spent too much time seeing what happens to those who don't find homes. Year after year, more kittens are born than are wanted or will be cared for, and for those, the future is grim.

The answer? Spaying and neutering, of course.

According to a survey by the American Animal Hospital Association, nearly 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. What do these people know that you don't? Here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering, or altering, is also used to describe both procedures.

Although the procedures are among the most common, a lot of people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Enjoy the full potential of a beautiful spring by making sure that your cat, at least, isn't part of the problem of unwanted kittens. There's just no reason not to. Whether your cat has had a litter or is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. Call your veterinarian or local humane group to get your pet altered. Don't let money be the delay: Many communities offer low-cost or even no-cost programs.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Kennel Club's Canine Health Foundation (www.akcchf.org) funds research into improving the health of dogs. The foundation's Web site offers information on how pet lovers can help, along with listings of research projects in progress. More resources are promised, including information on inheritable diseases and how to prevent them. Recently, the foundation added an area where visitors can ask questions of experts in such subjects as training, breed characteristics and health.

THE SCOOP

A better ride for pets is in the works. The American Kennel Club's magazine, the Gazette, reports in its May issue that GMC is putting features in one of its SUVs to make the vehicle more practical to pet lovers. The Envoy Pet Pro model will offer air vents to the cargo area, a vacuum cleaner, pet-safety belts, a built-in dog ramp, slide-out tray in the cargo area, rear-window shades and storage units designed to carry dog gear. GM's move follows one by Swedish manufacturer Saab, which has offered pet-friendly features in its wagon for a couple of years.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: One of my golden retrievers has a problem with chewing his toys to pieces. He has never chewed anything that doesn't belong to him. However, if he's given a tennis ball, Kong, teddy bear, etc., it's seek-and-destroy time.

The only toys we can give him are solid rubber balls, which work quite well. The only issue is, these toys are expensive, and tennis balls are much more affordable.

I may have to just live with his quirky behavior (at least he's not chewing my couch). But any suggestions would be appreciated. -- Y.M., via e-mail

A: Although it's not the answer you're looking for, I think you should do more than live with the behavior -- you should be grateful for it!

Chewing is a natural, healthy behavior. It's also great exercise that's good for your pet. Plus, your golden is choosing something that you don't mind him chewing, aside from the expense. That makes you one of the lucky ones: I get lots of letters from people whose dogs chew things that aren't so replaceable.

Check out your pet-supply store for toys made to stand up to determined chewers. Although the Kool Kongs (made for water retrieving) aren't designed for chewers, the company does make an Ultra King Kong model that stands up to a lot of heavy-duty jaw action. The rubber balls you mention are great, as is the Galileo dog toy. Check out catalogs and online suppliers to see if you can save money by buying a half-dozen or more of the same toy at a time.

You might also try increasing the frequency and duration of your dog's exercise as well, to help burn off some of that excess energy he's channeling into chewing.

Finally, a word about tennis balls. They should never, ever be offered as chew toys, although they're fine for supervised games of fetch. I've heard of cases where tennis balls have killed dogs! That has happened when dog compresses a ball with his jaw, and then it pops into his airway and expands, blocking the dog's ability to breathe.

With my retrievers, I take tennis balls to the dog park for retrieving, but I bring out the Kongs and other sturdy toys for times when all they want to do is chew. They never touch a tennis ball except for retrieving.

Q: I have two Saint Bernard pups, a male and female 13 and 12 weeks old. I have owned Saints before, but never two at once. My problem: They fight constantly. Regardless of how hard I try to structure their time, they would rather battle it out wherever they are.

I have been told this is what pups do; however, I feel they should be able to understand this behavior is not acceptable all the time. Am I doing more harm than good by interfering? -- T.M., via e-mail

A: Play -- even rough play as these two are engaged in -- is perfectly normal with puppies and even with adult dogs. And that's what I'm guessing is going on with these youngsters -- rough play, not really fighting.

But as normal as play is to a pair of puppies, unless you want a couple of 100-pound-plus dogs trashing your house, you'll need to set limits for these youngsters now, letting them know what's acceptable when they're inside.

You've taken on a big task raising two puppies together, especially two that are going to be as big as these ones are. I don't recommend what you've done, by the way, suggesting to most people that they space the puppies at least a year apart, or adopt an adult dog and then a puppy. You have the canine equivalent of having more than one kid in diapers -- and that's a lot of work.

Don't let these puppies raise each other. Spend time with each one individually, working on your bonding and on basic training. I recommend you find a good trainer or behaviorist who can guide you over the rough spots; ask your veterinarian for a referral.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Despite all that's happened in the last year, I'm not a nervous flier -- once I'm on the plane. Before I get to that point, however, I'm a basket case. Did I pack everything I'll need? Am I in the right line? Did I remember the reservation details for the rental car? Do I know how to get to the hotel? Because of my nervous-nellies, I was a real mess while preparing for a recent flight because of an additional source of concern: I'd be taking a show dog cross-country with me, as a favor to a friend.

In truth, I was glad for the company, even as I worried about the dog's comfort, the paperwork and how, exactly, does one put a pet through the X-ray machine? (I'm kidding, folks: You don't!) But I knew the dog was going to have it easy, compared to others. Since she was small enough to ride in the cabin with me, she'd never be left alone.

I also knew there wasn't really much to worry about, even for dogs in cargo. Even though the flying experience is now more difficult overall -- and more costly these days if you're flying with a pet -- the fact is that the overwhelming majority of pets get through the experience just fine. The keys to making it all work: Play by the rules, plan carefully, and be prepared to be a little pushy on your pet's behalf.

If you're contemplating air travel with your pet, here's what you need to know to make the trip go more smoothly:

-- Talk to the airline well in advance. Some carriers don't take animals at all, and even those that do have limits on the number of animals on any given flight. You also need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what paperwork you need to bring. If your animal is going into cargo, especially as unaccompanied freight, be sure to get details on how he's to be picked up after the flight.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Travel in the cargo hold isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for short-nosed pets such as pugs or Persians. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle.

-- Choose a carrier designed for air travel. For those pets who'll travel below, the crate should be of high-impact plastic and just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Check and double-check that all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place and tightened. For small pets who'll travel in the cabin, choose a soft-sided bag designed for animals.

While your pet cannot wear a collar in his crate -- it's not safe because it can get hung up -- put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around his neck. Be sure the crate has contact phone numbers for both ends of the journey prominently displayed. Your home number will be of little use if you're not there.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when the weather is extreme, or when air traffic is heaviest. Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a short layover. Most animal fatalities occur on the ground, when pets are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground.

Remember, finally, that your pet's life relies on the attentiveness of airline personnel. Most of these employees are excellent and caring, but mistakes do happen.

Be prepared to pester airline personnel to confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made the same connections you have. If your pet is flying unaccompanied, talk to freight-handling personnel at every airport your pet will visit.

PETS ON THE WEB

Animals are on the move all the time, and there's an industry that works at getting them there safely. The members of the Independent Pet and Animal Transportation Association International (www.ipata.com) specialize in getting animals to their destinations, whether they're show dogs, movie or TV animals, or pets moving with their relocating families. Services vary (as do fees) but may include boarding and grooming as well as getting pets on and off planes. The organization lists members on its Web site, along with the services each provides.

THE SCOOP

Pet lovers often assume that they'll need to tranquilize their animals before putting them on a plane. Not true! Veterinarians believe that sedation increases the risks of air travel, and so is not recommended for most traveling pets -- and can, in fact, kill an animal. The combination of high altitude, stress and limited oxygen in the cargo hold is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he's not sedated. Still, there are exceptions, so discuss the issue with your veterinarian when you're getting your pet's pre-flight health certificate.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just wanted to lend our wholehearted support to your article about the benefits of adopting adult dogs. We have three "rescues," and it's the most satisfying experience to save these guys, train them, and enjoy having them as part of our family.

We do agility with our sheltie, our collie is a certified therapy dog, and the collie/Lab mix just loves to go for hikes with us.

As rescue dogs, they quickly learn the routine. Taking them through obedience training has certainly been worthwhile.

We're thinking of adopting a fourth dog, but we feel as if we have our hands full already. Is there any rule of thumb on how many dogs is enough?

By the way, we enjoyed your reminiscing about your dog, Andy, loving tomatoes. Murphy, our sheltie, will eat ripe tomatoes right off the vine if we're not careful, and he's been known to steal freshly picked peaches right out of the bucket! -- L.A. and R.A., via e-mail

A: I heard from tons of readers following my column on adopting adult dogs. Love changes everything, and it's wonderful to read about dogs who've had a rough start blooming into happy, self-confident pets when they finally have a family of their own, for keeps.

I've had big dogs, little dogs, males, females, dogs I adopted as puppies and ones I took in as adults. I've loved them all, and cried when I've had to say goodbye to each of them. Maybe I'm imagining things, but the "second chance" dogs seemed to know how good they had it with me, where ones I'd raised from pampered pups took their happy lives as their due.

Should you add a fourth dog? Although I currently have two (soon to be three), I've had up to seven dogs at one time -- my own, plus some long-term guests and fosters. For me, dealing with the larger numbers meant not having as close a relationship with any one dog as an individual. I treated them more like a single entity -- the pack. I much prefer keeping the numbers down, and I think we're all happier as a result.

If you think you already have your hands full, then follow your instincts. It's hard to say no when so many great dogs need homes, but you've done your part already. You'll know when you're ready to add another.

Q: My husband and I want to adopt two young adult cats from a local shelter. The shelter has approved our application, but for declawed cats only, as our two previous cats (now deceased) were declawed.

We have told them that we have researched this issue and have decided not to declaw our new cats. But they may not allow us to adopt. I miss not having a cat in the house. Is there anything you can suggest? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: I wasn't clear from your letter if you have two particular cats in mind, or if you haven't settled on which cats you want to take home. If you're still looking, the answer's easy: Go to another shelter. Policies vary widely, and I'm sure you'll find one delighted to place cats with you.

If you are set on two cats at that one shelter, ask to speak with the director. With your history of responsible pet keeping and your change of heart on the controversial topic of declawing, I can't imagine why your application wouldn't be acceptable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600