Spring is such a lovely time, an explosion of color and life displacing the gloom of what sometimes seems winter unending. But I always have mixed feelings about this time of year because of kitten season.

Already I hear the yowling of tomcats fighting for mates, the cries of cats in the throes of creating new life. Already I've seen a sign offering free kittens, from a box in front of my grocery store. And I know we've just started, with more fights, more matings and more kittens nonstop until the weather turns cold again.

I love everything about kittens. But the joy of their company is not enough to offset the sadness I feel after having spent too much time seeing what happens to those who don't find homes. Year after year, more kittens are born than are wanted or will be cared for, and for those, the future is grim.

The answer? Spaying and neutering, of course.

According to a survey by the American Animal Hospital Association, nearly 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. What do these people know that you don't? Here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering, or altering, is also used to describe both procedures.

Although the procedures are among the most common, a lot of people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Enjoy the full potential of a beautiful spring by making sure that your cat, at least, isn't part of the problem of unwanted kittens. There's just no reason not to. Whether your cat has had a litter or is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. Call your veterinarian or local humane group to get your pet altered. Don't let money be the delay: Many communities offer low-cost or even no-cost programs.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Kennel Club's Canine Health Foundation (www.akcchf.org) funds research into improving the health of dogs. The foundation's Web site offers information on how pet lovers can help, along with listings of research projects in progress. More resources are promised, including information on inheritable diseases and how to prevent them. Recently, the foundation added an area where visitors can ask questions of experts in such subjects as training, breed characteristics and health.

THE SCOOP

A better ride for pets is in the works. The American Kennel Club's magazine, the Gazette, reports in its May issue that GMC is putting features in one of its SUVs to make the vehicle more practical to pet lovers. The Envoy Pet Pro model will offer air vents to the cargo area, a vacuum cleaner, pet-safety belts, a built-in dog ramp, slide-out tray in the cargo area, rear-window shades and storage units designed to carry dog gear. GM's move follows one by Swedish manufacturer Saab, which has offered pet-friendly features in its wagon for a couple of years.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: One of my golden retrievers has a problem with chewing his toys to pieces. He has never chewed anything that doesn't belong to him. However, if he's given a tennis ball, Kong, teddy bear, etc., it's seek-and-destroy time.

The only toys we can give him are solid rubber balls, which work quite well. The only issue is, these toys are expensive, and tennis balls are much more affordable.

I may have to just live with his quirky behavior (at least he's not chewing my couch). But any suggestions would be appreciated. -- Y.M., via e-mail

A: Although it's not the answer you're looking for, I think you should do more than live with the behavior -- you should be grateful for it!

Chewing is a natural, healthy behavior. It's also great exercise that's good for your pet. Plus, your golden is choosing something that you don't mind him chewing, aside from the expense. That makes you one of the lucky ones: I get lots of letters from people whose dogs chew things that aren't so replaceable.

Check out your pet-supply store for toys made to stand up to determined chewers. Although the Kool Kongs (made for water retrieving) aren't designed for chewers, the company does make an Ultra King Kong model that stands up to a lot of heavy-duty jaw action. The rubber balls you mention are great, as is the Galileo dog toy. Check out catalogs and online suppliers to see if you can save money by buying a half-dozen or more of the same toy at a time.

You might also try increasing the frequency and duration of your dog's exercise as well, to help burn off some of that excess energy he's channeling into chewing.

Finally, a word about tennis balls. They should never, ever be offered as chew toys, although they're fine for supervised games of fetch. I've heard of cases where tennis balls have killed dogs! That has happened when dog compresses a ball with his jaw, and then it pops into his airway and expands, blocking the dog's ability to breathe.

With my retrievers, I take tennis balls to the dog park for retrieving, but I bring out the Kongs and other sturdy toys for times when all they want to do is chew. They never touch a tennis ball except for retrieving.

Q: I have two Saint Bernard pups, a male and female 13 and 12 weeks old. I have owned Saints before, but never two at once. My problem: They fight constantly. Regardless of how hard I try to structure their time, they would rather battle it out wherever they are.

I have been told this is what pups do; however, I feel they should be able to understand this behavior is not acceptable all the time. Am I doing more harm than good by interfering? -- T.M., via e-mail

A: Play -- even rough play as these two are engaged in -- is perfectly normal with puppies and even with adult dogs. And that's what I'm guessing is going on with these youngsters -- rough play, not really fighting.

But as normal as play is to a pair of puppies, unless you want a couple of 100-pound-plus dogs trashing your house, you'll need to set limits for these youngsters now, letting them know what's acceptable when they're inside.

You've taken on a big task raising two puppies together, especially two that are going to be as big as these ones are. I don't recommend what you've done, by the way, suggesting to most people that they space the puppies at least a year apart, or adopt an adult dog and then a puppy. You have the canine equivalent of having more than one kid in diapers -- and that's a lot of work.

Don't let these puppies raise each other. Spend time with each one individually, working on your bonding and on basic training. I recommend you find a good trainer or behaviorist who can guide you over the rough spots; ask your veterinarian for a referral.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Despite all that's happened in the last year, I'm not a nervous flier -- once I'm on the plane. Before I get to that point, however, I'm a basket case. Did I pack everything I'll need? Am I in the right line? Did I remember the reservation details for the rental car? Do I know how to get to the hotel? Because of my nervous-nellies, I was a real mess while preparing for a recent flight because of an additional source of concern: I'd be taking a show dog cross-country with me, as a favor to a friend.

In truth, I was glad for the company, even as I worried about the dog's comfort, the paperwork and how, exactly, does one put a pet through the X-ray machine? (I'm kidding, folks: You don't!) But I knew the dog was going to have it easy, compared to others. Since she was small enough to ride in the cabin with me, she'd never be left alone.

I also knew there wasn't really much to worry about, even for dogs in cargo. Even though the flying experience is now more difficult overall -- and more costly these days if you're flying with a pet -- the fact is that the overwhelming majority of pets get through the experience just fine. The keys to making it all work: Play by the rules, plan carefully, and be prepared to be a little pushy on your pet's behalf.

If you're contemplating air travel with your pet, here's what you need to know to make the trip go more smoothly:

-- Talk to the airline well in advance. Some carriers don't take animals at all, and even those that do have limits on the number of animals on any given flight. You also need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what paperwork you need to bring. If your animal is going into cargo, especially as unaccompanied freight, be sure to get details on how he's to be picked up after the flight.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Travel in the cargo hold isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for short-nosed pets such as pugs or Persians. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle.

-- Choose a carrier designed for air travel. For those pets who'll travel below, the crate should be of high-impact plastic and just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Check and double-check that all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place and tightened. For small pets who'll travel in the cabin, choose a soft-sided bag designed for animals.

While your pet cannot wear a collar in his crate -- it's not safe because it can get hung up -- put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around his neck. Be sure the crate has contact phone numbers for both ends of the journey prominently displayed. Your home number will be of little use if you're not there.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when the weather is extreme, or when air traffic is heaviest. Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a short layover. Most animal fatalities occur on the ground, when pets are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground.

Remember, finally, that your pet's life relies on the attentiveness of airline personnel. Most of these employees are excellent and caring, but mistakes do happen.

Be prepared to pester airline personnel to confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made the same connections you have. If your pet is flying unaccompanied, talk to freight-handling personnel at every airport your pet will visit.

PETS ON THE WEB

Animals are on the move all the time, and there's an industry that works at getting them there safely. The members of the Independent Pet and Animal Transportation Association International (www.ipata.com) specialize in getting animals to their destinations, whether they're show dogs, movie or TV animals, or pets moving with their relocating families. Services vary (as do fees) but may include boarding and grooming as well as getting pets on and off planes. The organization lists members on its Web site, along with the services each provides.

THE SCOOP

Pet lovers often assume that they'll need to tranquilize their animals before putting them on a plane. Not true! Veterinarians believe that sedation increases the risks of air travel, and so is not recommended for most traveling pets -- and can, in fact, kill an animal. The combination of high altitude, stress and limited oxygen in the cargo hold is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he's not sedated. Still, there are exceptions, so discuss the issue with your veterinarian when you're getting your pet's pre-flight health certificate.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just wanted to lend our wholehearted support to your article about the benefits of adopting adult dogs. We have three "rescues," and it's the most satisfying experience to save these guys, train them, and enjoy having them as part of our family.

We do agility with our sheltie, our collie is a certified therapy dog, and the collie/Lab mix just loves to go for hikes with us.

As rescue dogs, they quickly learn the routine. Taking them through obedience training has certainly been worthwhile.

We're thinking of adopting a fourth dog, but we feel as if we have our hands full already. Is there any rule of thumb on how many dogs is enough?

By the way, we enjoyed your reminiscing about your dog, Andy, loving tomatoes. Murphy, our sheltie, will eat ripe tomatoes right off the vine if we're not careful, and he's been known to steal freshly picked peaches right out of the bucket! -- L.A. and R.A., via e-mail

A: I heard from tons of readers following my column on adopting adult dogs. Love changes everything, and it's wonderful to read about dogs who've had a rough start blooming into happy, self-confident pets when they finally have a family of their own, for keeps.

I've had big dogs, little dogs, males, females, dogs I adopted as puppies and ones I took in as adults. I've loved them all, and cried when I've had to say goodbye to each of them. Maybe I'm imagining things, but the "second chance" dogs seemed to know how good they had it with me, where ones I'd raised from pampered pups took their happy lives as their due.

Should you add a fourth dog? Although I currently have two (soon to be three), I've had up to seven dogs at one time -- my own, plus some long-term guests and fosters. For me, dealing with the larger numbers meant not having as close a relationship with any one dog as an individual. I treated them more like a single entity -- the pack. I much prefer keeping the numbers down, and I think we're all happier as a result.

If you think you already have your hands full, then follow your instincts. It's hard to say no when so many great dogs need homes, but you've done your part already. You'll know when you're ready to add another.

Q: My husband and I want to adopt two young adult cats from a local shelter. The shelter has approved our application, but for declawed cats only, as our two previous cats (now deceased) were declawed.

We have told them that we have researched this issue and have decided not to declaw our new cats. But they may not allow us to adopt. I miss not having a cat in the house. Is there anything you can suggest? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: I wasn't clear from your letter if you have two particular cats in mind, or if you haven't settled on which cats you want to take home. If you're still looking, the answer's easy: Go to another shelter. Policies vary widely, and I'm sure you'll find one delighted to place cats with you.

If you are set on two cats at that one shelter, ask to speak with the director. With your history of responsible pet keeping and your change of heart on the controversial topic of declawing, I can't imagine why your application wouldn't be acceptable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of my friends is really good about taking her cats to the veterinarian when they're sick, but really bad about follow-up care. I explain to her (as does her veterinarian) that medication doesn't work if you don't put it in the cat as directed.

In response, she shrugs. "I do my best," she says, "but cats don't like to be pilled."

And she's right: Of all the pill-taking questions and suggestions I've received over the years, the most consistent complaints have come from cat lovers. Cats don't want to be bamboozled, cajoled or otherwise messed with. Take that pill and ... well, you know. And put the drops, creams and shots there, too.

But you just can't do that. Seeing your veterinarian and then not following through on care instructions is worse than a waste of money: It may be dangerous for your pet.

So what do you do if your cat hates being medicated?

You can try to disguise a pill in a bit of something yummy in hopes that your pet doesn't notice the pill inside. Problem is, this method works a lot better for dogs, who tend to bolt down their food, than for cats, who eat carefully, considering every mouthful. Sneaking a pill past your cat can be difficult.

For medicines that must be given for more than a short period, it's best to learn to pill your cat the way your veterinarian does. The direct method seems harder at first, but it can be easier on both you and your cat once you've mastered it. The trick is to be swift and deliberate: Take a firm but gentle grip on your cat's head from above, pry open his jaw with the index finger of your other hand, and press the pill far enough back on the tongue to trigger swallowing. A tip: Ask your veterinarian to demonstrate and to assist you in learning.

For liquid medication, be sure your veterinarian sends you home with some large syringes without their needles. These are marked on the sides to make measuring easy, and they're easier at getting liquid medicine in the right place (an eyedropper can also work). Raise your cat's muzzle with a firm but gentle hold on the top of the head and lift the lip on one side. Ease the tip to the back of the throat and then release the liquid in a slow, steady motion. Your cat will swallow naturally.

For ear medication, put a large towel across your lap and draw up your pet, relaxing the animal with stroking and with soothing words. After your cat's relaxed, apply the ear drops, massaging the base of the ear gently. For eye medication, gently apply a line of medication from the tube across the length of the eye, being careful not to touch the surface of the eye. Try to hit drops squarely in the center. Close the lid for a couple of seconds to let the medication distribute evenly.

As with anything your pet would rather avoid, be patient, gentle and firm when giving medication -- and follow with praise and treats. If you're having trouble medicating your pet, have your veterinarian walk you through it, or discuss alternatives.

Whatever you do, don't avoid giving your pet the medications he needs to get better. Get them in your cat, at prescribed intervals, for as long as you're instructed to.

A final important note about medications: Don't stop because your cat seems better, unless your veterinarian gives the OK first. Otherwise, you're flirting with a rebound of what made your cat sick in the first place.

If you have a tip for getting medications into your cat, let me know! I'll share them in an upcoming column.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Pet Loss Grief Support Web site (www.petloss.com) isn't the flashiest or slickest site around, but you'll never find one with more heart. The site includes bulletin boards and a chat room where people can share their feelings of grief (and often guilt), and get advice from other pet lovers who are also going through a difficult time. Memorial pages allow people to post their memories and pictures, while every Monday night the site hosts a candle ceremony to honor pets who have died.

Do have tissues at hand before visiting, though, because everything on the site is heartfelt -- and often heartbreaking.

THE SCOOP

Retrieving games are great for getting your dog some exercise and for strengthening the bond between the two of you. But sometimes those rousing games of fetch can end in serious injury if you're not careful about how you play the game.

Never throw things for your pet in a way that makes him leap high in the air or twist to catch it. If you do, your pet might seriously injure his legs or back upon landing, with the kind of damage that often requires expensive and painful surgery to correct.

Instead, throw the ball or other toy so it stays low and in front of your pet, to help him keep his body near the ground, running instead of leaping.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you please change your attitude about declawing? I have a cat I found outside last November. She was about 6 to 8 weeks old, and at times she acted very feral. I thought she scratched my dog's eye, so I decided she needed to be declawed. Now she is friendlier to my dog and to me, more loving and sociable. -- M.B., via e-mail

A: I'm not completely against declawing. As a last-chance cure for behaviors some people find intolerable, the surgery has kept a lot of cats from being dumped.

However, I am very much against the idea that declawing should be an automatic response to the first sign of scratching, or a pre-emptive strike to prevent a behavior problem that may never have occurred on its own.

Did it occur to you that the socializing you did with this kitten was what turned her temperament around, not the declawing? Chances are that your cat became more lovable because she learned to trust you and feel safe in your home, not because you had her toes surgically amputated at the first joint.

My advice to cat lovers: Don't assume scratching is going to be a problem, and if it becomes one, try training before surgery. If you provide your cat with places to scratch and train the animal to avoid furniture (such as by attaching double-sided tape), you may well be able to live quite happily with your cat, claws and all. As for the occasional swipe of the paw -- it's just part of living with a cat and rarely causes serious damage.

Q: On weekends, my husband and I love to get up early and take our Labrador on hikes. On more than one occasion, Sam has sniffed out and decided to roll in another animal's feces, such as horse or deer. He always seems extremely proud of himself after doing it, too. Why does he do this? Is there a way to stop it? -- B.H., via e-mail

A: For a few years, I had to avoid going to the river trail by my home when fish where spawning, because one of my dogs took such delight in rolling in the most rotting fish carcass he could find. And then there was the time at the ocean when the same dog happily found and threw himself into the bloated remains of a seal who had been dead for a very long time -- ugh!

Some behaviorists believe wolves and dogs instinctively want to smell like something they're not for camouflage purposes, to help them sneak up on prey. While that's a fine theory, the happy look on my own stinky dogs' faces over the years makes me think dogs just like rotten smells, want to wear them and enjoy sharing the stench with those they love.

What can you do? I'd suggest seeing a trainer who can help you strengthen your off-leash control over your dog, so he comes when you call him no matter the temptation. Ask the trainer about teaching the "don't touch" or "leave it" command as well.

Realistically, though, your dog may find rolling in feces or worse so delightful that the only way to stop this disgusting fun is to keep him on leash. Failing that, keep old sheets on the car seats and plenty of dog shampoo at home.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600