If you think your bird is sick, it's almost certain he is very sick indeed. That's because birds, like many creatures who serve as dinner for others, are born with the instinct to act healthy as long as possible. Those individuals who act sick or weak catch the attention of predators, which means a bird will fight to appear normal until he's too sick to act any other way.

A pet bird in such a state needs help immediately.

That doesn't mean surfing the Web for a home remedy or asking a pet-store clerk for advice. Although the advice given in such places can sometimes be fine, it's not worth risking your pet's life on the chance that you'll learn something helpful. A bird who seems sick needs to see someone who can correctly diagnose and treat your pet. And that means a veterinarian, preferably one who specializes in avian medicine.

Caring for a sick bird can often be a struggle for bird-lovers, especially those who are used to giving pills to dogs or cats. You can't give a pill to a bird, and the options for medicating are not as easy as disguising a pill with a little cheese or a piece of hot dog.

You'll need to discuss with your veterinarian which method of medicating your bird is best for you and your pet, and then you'll need to make sure you're comfortable with whatever method you'll be using.

Ask all the questions that come to mind, watch your veterinarian demonstrate, and then practice under the tutelage of the doctor or a technician before you go home with your bird and the medication. If you run into problems at home, don't be shy about calling for help. Above all, don't take your bird home and skip the medication. It won't do your pet any good if only some, or none, of the drugs you're sent home with get into him.

Here's a rundown of the options, pro and con, when it comes to medicating a sick bird:

-- Adding water-soluble medications to drinking water. Adding medication to water is easy, but it has its drawbacks. You have little control over dosage because you can't count on your bird to drink any set amount of water. Some species drink only a little water anyway, and other birds may not feel up to drinking when they're ill.

-- Offering medicated feeds. As with water, it's easy to offer feed with medicine in it, but you have no way of making sure that any of it gets inside your bird. And some medicated feeds apparently taste awful, so even if your bird feels like eating, he may not touch the stuff with medicine in it.

-- Giving medication orally. Accuracy of dosage is one benefit of putting medicine into your bird's mouth -- assuming you get the stuff inside him instead of dribbling it everywhere but down his throat. You can get the appropriate amount in an eyedropper, or in a syringe with the needle removed, and slide the tip into the side of your bird's mouth. The downside, as you've probably already guessed: Your bird isn't likely to sit still for this procedure, so you'll have to restrain him with a towel. Once he's restrained, a bird who has been hand-fed as a baby will usually go along -- the sight of a plastic tip nearing his mouth will usually get him to open up, because it'll remind him of his babyhood, when he was hand-fed.

-- Giving an injection. This has high marks for accuracy and, once you're used to injecting your bird, high marks for ease. As with oral medications, though, you'll likely need to restrain your bird with a towel to inject his medication. Some people get really good at injecting their pets, even after initial reluctance.

One final thing to remember about medications: Don't stop giving them just because your bird seems to feel better, at least not without clearing it with your veterinarian first. It's important to finish the prescription as directed, because as soon as your bird starts feeling better, he'll start acting better -- even if he's still sick.

PETS ON THE WEB

What plants are safe around pets? It's a good idea to know the answer before heading to the nursery to stock up on spring greenery. One place to find some guidelines is Pet Care Forum's "Safe Gardening" Web page (www.vin.com/PetCare/Articles/VetHospital/m01487.htm), which not only lists some deadly and pet-safe plants but also shows pictures of them. Included in the page is a link to the Cornell University poisonous-plants database (www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants), a highly detailed offering that should be bookmarked on every pet-lover's Web browser.

THE SCOOP

If you're planting vegetables this spring, don't forget to put in the plants your pets love. Fresh veggies of all sorts are perfect for rabbits, guinea pigs and pocket pets such as rats and mice, as well as birds from the smallest parrotlet or parakeet to the largest macaw.

Cats love greenery, too. While the obvious plant choice for cats is catnip, many feline pets also enjoy the mood-altering effects of valerian. Other greens are favored just for nibbling, including tender shoots of alfalfa, rye and wheat grass, parsley and thyme tickle the fancy of some felines, too.

What about dogs? Over the years I've had readers tell me about their dogs' preference in veggies. Common favorites are carrots and tomatoes. (My sheltie Andy loved the latter so much that I had to put fencing around the plants to keep him from stripping every tomato off the vines.)

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Could you pass along this safety tip? While camping or traveling cross-country with your pet, buy an inexpensive nylon collar in a bright color and print your cell phone number on it with a black laundry marker.

Then, should your pet get lost, turn the cell phone on. If you're lucky, someone will call you almost immediately upon finding the animal.

Of course, other ID is permanently on our dog, with our home phone and also an alternate. Plus, we took advantage of having our pound puppy "microchipped" when we adopted her. Doing all these things should get our wonderful black lab mix safely back to us, should she get lost! -- J.T., via e-mail

A: Great suggestion. For years I've been putting disposable key tags on my dogs' collars when we travel. Every day I write the phone and room number of the hotel where we stay, or the name of the campground and campsite number on the tags.

My dogs are also microchipped, and always have permanent ID tags with the phone numbers (area code included) of a good friend, as well as my home and work numbers. They also have tags from 1-800-HELP4PETS, a round-the-clock service that will authorize veterinary care or emergency boarding if someone finds my dogs and I can't be located. (For more about the service, call 1-800-HELP4PETS or visit their Web site at www.help4pets.com.)

This system of tags, chips and services may seem overkill to some, but I figure it's cheap insurance against losing a pet. Your suggestion has made me realize that I need to update things a bit, so I'll be ordering permanent ID tags with my cell phone number on them.

Q: Some weeks ago you had an article in which you mentioned an anti-bark collar that releases citronella spray. Would that be appropriate for a 3-pound Chihuahua who is a very persistent barker? -- L.B., via e-mail

A: The manufacturer recommends that the collar not be worn by any dog less than 6 pounds in weight, so that's not an option for you. (Larger dogs may benefit from having such a collar as part of a training program. They're available at many pet-supply stores or on Web sites such as Foster & Smith's at www.drsfostersmith.com.)

Many people scream at barkers, throw things or even hit them. These techniques don't work. One good strategy is to train the dog to bark on your command. It works because once you install an "on" switch, you also get a bonus -- an "off" switch. You control the behavior! It also helps to teach the dog a substitute behavior. Instead of barking when someone knocks at the door, teach the dog to sit instead and reward him generously.

For these strategies to work for you, it's a good idea to find a trainer in your area who uses reward-based training techniques and will work with you and your dog specifically on the problem behavior. One source of such trainers is the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, which has a directory online at www.apdt.com.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When an aging pet passes on, one of the things you might notice when the pain of loss loses its sharpest edge is that you're not seeing veterinarians as often as you were. And if those veterinarians are the kind of people you like and whose work you respect, you might even miss seeing them. Maybe not enough to go in just to say hello, but certainly enough to appreciate the good care that your pet received throughout his life.

That's the way I feel about my veterinarians. They got Andy off to a great start as a puppy and helped keep him healthy over what was a very good, long life -- almost 16 years. It's hard to say who impressed me more -- our "regular" veterinarian or the specialists, which at various times over the years included a cardiologist, an internist and a surgeon toward the end. Yet, it was a veterinary acupuncturist who brought real quality to the old dog's life. She gave Andy relief from the often-painful burdens of old age and opened my eyes to the possibilities of alternative medicine.

Although not as many specialists exist in veterinary medicine as in human medicine, the kinds and the number of veterinary experts grow every year. And that's good news for our pets.

Current companion-animal specialties include such "system" areas of expertise as cardiology, dentistry, dermatology and oncology. There are also species specialists, such as those veterinarians certified as experts on bird health. Veterinary behaviorists are becoming more common as well, helping people and their pets work through such problems as house-soiling or separation anxiety with the aid of medication and behavior-modification techniques. And finally, there are those veterinarians who practice alternative or complementary care, including acupuncture, herbal therapy and homeopathy.

System specialties usually require additional study in a two- to five-year residency program, followed by a rigorous examination. These certifications are handled by a board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, which is why certified specialists are sometimes referred to as "boarded" or "board-certified."

For veterinarians already in practice, the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners also offers specialty certifications, including those in feline and avian practice. The certifications also require passing a difficult examination.

There's no mandatory certification for alternative or complementary veterinary medicine -- any veterinarian can start calling himself "alternative," but services offered and skill levels will vary. That doesn't mean you should avoid such practitioners, but you should be aware of the potential for problems. (More information on alternative veterinary medicine can be found on the AltVetMed Web site, at www.altvetmed.com.)

Many large urban areas support independent specialists or specialty practices, but in less populated areas you're more likely to find a full complement of specialists at the closest university with a school of veterinary medicine.

Only veterinarians who are board-certified are allowed to call themselves "specialists," although others may stress a special interest in a particular area of medicine in their practice marketing. As my "Birds for Dummies" co-author Dr. Brian Speer points out, some people who take a special interest in an area of medicine become very good indeed, even without the official credentials. One of only a handful of veterinarians certified as an avian specialist in both North America and Europe, Speer has lectured all over the world and seen what sort of care is out there for pet birds -- good and bad from specialists and non-specialists alike.

If you believe your pet has a problem that could use the expertise of a specialist, talk to your veterinarian about a referral. If you have a cooperative relationship with a good veterinarian, calling in a specialist is never a problem.

If your veterinarian is reluctant to refer you, remember that the final decision about your pet's care is always yours. If you want to see a specialist you should do so even if your veterinarian disagrees. Keep the lines of communication open with your veterinarian if you can, but realize that your pet's care is your responsibility and seek a second option or specialist on your own.

In Andy's case, the cooperation between his regular veterinarian and his veterinary acupuncturist could not have been better. They worked together, respected what each other did, and were both there with me to say goodbye when the time came.

Knowing Andy received the best care possible from all his veterinarians really helps to ease the pain of losing him. His was a good, long life, and I have no regrets.

PETS ON THE WEB

The University of California, Davis, is home to what is considered to be one of the best schools of veterinary medicine in the world. I may be a little biased because this important resource for animal lovers has always been next to my hometown, but I've been to more than a few veterinary schools in the last few years and they always make me appreciate UCD's more. The UCD School of Veterinary Medicine Web site (www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu) provides a good overview of the school and its programs, along with information on its Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital, where the best in veterinary medicine saves lives every day.

THE SCOOP

Overuse of oil-based hairball remedies can interfere with your cat's absorption of some important nutrients -- fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K. Talk to your veterinarian about your cat's hairball problems, and be sure not to overdo any medication you're sent home with.

A great alternative to commercial hairball remedies is canned pumpkin. Regularly adding a teaspoon or so to your cat's diet is a safe, inexpensive way to deal with hairballs. If your cat won't eat the stuff undoctored, try mixing it into canned cat food, or with the juice from water-packed tuna.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I recently adopted a Labrador puppy. I'd eventually like to take her on my daily jog, and I'd like to know when she'll be mature enough, and if I'll need to work her up to the full four-mile distance. I jog a relatively easy 10-minute mile pace. -- K.D., via e-mail

A: According to Dr. Robert Richardson, a Sacramento, Calif., veterinarian who's well-known for his expertise in orthopedic surgery, you need to wait a while before putting the miles on that pup.

Richardson says an 8-month-old dog can safely manage only a one- to two-mile run at a relatively slow pace -- and that's if the animal is perfectly sound.

A puppy who's 8 months old is just past the usual growth spurts, says Richardson, who cautions that before that age a puppy's cartilage is very soft and easily damaged.

If you push your developing pup, or ask a dog with joint problems to run at all, you could be risking serious problems down the road. Consult your own veterinarian for a more precise assessment of your dog's suitability as a running partner.

Q: My husband has a meticulously restored classic Porsche he keeps on a concrete pad behind our garage, the car carefully protected by a fitted-cloth cover. A cat has taken to sleeping on the cover. While my husband doesn't like this, I've convinced him that it's no big deal.

Lately, though, the cat has started sharpening its claws on the corners of the cover, and the fabric is taking a beating as a result. The cover wasn't cheap, and the destruction is getting on my husband's nerves.

My husband's idea of dealing with this problem involves a gun, but I would like another alternative. Any suggestions for a non-harmful way to get the cat to keep its claws to itself? -- G.S., via e-mail

A: Cats hate to touch sticky material, so if you put double-sided tape on the areas where the clawing is causing damage, you ought to be able to fix the problem.

You can buy double-sided tape at the hardware or home-supply store. Or check out a pet-supply store for a product called Sticky Paws, double-sided strips that are designed to solve just such a problem. (If you can't find Sticky Paws locally, you can order the product direct from the manufacturer, at www.stickypaws.com or 1-888-697-2873.) I'd test out a small area before applying tape or the strips in great quantity.

And because you know a cat is sleeping on and around the cars, make sure you thump on the hood to scare him away before starting up any of your vehicles. Some cats like to sleep up against engines as they cool, which is a pretty dangerous place to be when the key is turned.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Every now and then you'll run across a product that seems so useful that before long you don't know how you ever lived without it. The retractable, reel-type leash (the Flexi is probably the most popular brand) is one such product.

I love my Flexi leashes. When I was driving cross-country last year, the product allowed me to give my dogs up to 30 feet of leash to stretch their legs at roadside rest stops, while keeping them safe from 80 mph traffic that barreled by not 100 yards away. My dogs are responsive to voice commands, but I don't risk them being off-leash in any but the safest areas -- which means I use the Flexi a great deal.

But every piece of equipment has its limits and its rules for safety that can result in great peril if they are disregarded. These leashes are no exception, and lately I've been getting a lot of sad reports from people who relied on the product for more than it was designed to do.

The Flexi is not designed for use with an untrained dog. A dog who pulls at the leash or refuses to come when called back from the end of the leash is at risk for injuring himself, his owner or an innocent bystander. This is not the fault of either the leash or the dog. It's an error on the part of the dog's owner in choosing the wrong piece of equipment.

How can a dog get in trouble on a leash? You'd be surprised. Some dogs have hurt themselves hitting the end of the long leash at full speed, and not having it give way (which is also pretty tough on the human holding the handle). Other dogs have bitten people or other pets, or hurt themselves, after getting too far away on the leash before the handler has time to reel them in, or by pulling the leash out of the owner's hand when reaching the end of the line.

Trainers have been sounding the alarm about the first problem for a while now, especially when the reel-type leash is paired with another recent development in canine control, the head halter. Although reports of injuries are anecdotal, it's not difficult to imagine the problems that can result if a large, strong dog is stopped suddenly by pressure on his neck, or by having his head whipped around by a halter around his muzzle.

As for the other problem -- a dog getting into trouble while at the end of the leash -- I've received a number of such reports in just the last few weeks. I witnessed this at a park once, when a boisterous young shepherd mix hit the end of the line so hard she jerked the handle out of her owner's hand. The reel then retracted the line close behind her, the handle bouncing on the pavement behind the dog and frightening her into a full-fledged panic run that ended with a sickening thud when she was hit by a car.

Perhaps the strangest case I've heard involves a Welsh corgi who ran out of an elevator just as the doors where closing. The elevator went up two flights before the dog's owner got it to stop. In the meantime, the retractable leash extended to its maximum length and then pulled the dog up to the top of the elevator door, suspending him by his neck until someone could get him disconnected. Amazingly, he suffered nothing more than a bruising.

The company that makes the Flexi is aware of the potential problems, and highlights cautionary information in its packages and on its Web site (www.flexiusa.com). If you own this product, you'd do well to read the manufacturer's advice before using it again.

If your dog is out of control, you need a trainer, not a retractable leash. Don't risk injury to yourself or your dog by using this otherwise marvelous product in a way for which it wasn't designed.

PETS ON THE WEB

I've always found appeal in the Abyssinian, a lovely cat with large eyes and a distinctive ticked coat in which each hair is banded with colors. The breed's elegant and graceful physical appearance, combined with a friendly and outgoing personality that's sometimes described as "dog-like," makes the Aby one cat who'll always catch my eye. The Cat Fanciers' Association offers a good overview of the breed, with a page (www.cfainc.org/breeds/profiles/abyssinian.html) that reveals the breed's history, plus links to recommended reading on this gorgeous cat.

THE SCOOP

Years ago I was visiting a friend's house when she complained how disobedient her dog was. The dog, a sweet-natured cocker spaniel, was sitting on the couch beside me when her owner commanded her, "Down!" The dog immediately dropped into a down and was yelled at for her obedience. By "down," the owner didn't mean for the dog to lie down, but rather to get off the couch.

This is why I prefer to teach the command "off" when asking dogs to remove their furry fannies from furniture or beds. It's less confusing and more effective to teach the dog different commands. It's hard for a dog to understand English at all, much less find shades of meaning in different contexts.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have two 2-year-old cats, a brother and sister, and I am thinking of getting a Border-collie puppy. Is this a good idea? I don't want the cats to be hiding under the bed or not being social anymore. I don't want to get the puppy, then realize I made a mistake later. -- J.D. , via e-mail

A: While your cats almost certainly would not vote for adding a puppy to the household, they're young enough that they probably will adjust in time.

Before you add any puppy or dog, be sure to set up a separate area where the cats can feel safe, a no-dogs-allowed room with food, water, litter box, scratching post and more. You may have to keep the cats shut up in that area for a week or two after bringing home the dog, and then put a baby-gate over the door to allow the cats to be away from the dog when they want to be.

Locking the cats up doesn't seem fair to many people, since the cats were there first. But feline behavior experts say cats adjust better to change if provided with a small, quiet area that's just for them during social upheavals such as moving or adding new people or pets to the household.

Now, about that puppy.

The Border collie -- an intense, athletic and highly intelligent animal -- is really not well-suited for the average pet home. They have high requirements when it comes to keeping their mind and body working, and if you don't keep them busy, they'll not be happy campers.

An ideal situation for a Border collie would be a farm with sheep. Close second would be an active partnership with someone who's seriously involved in the sports of canine agility or obedience, where these bright, driven dogs really shine. I do know of people who keep BCs in suburban homes and even urban apartments, but those who do so successfully dedicate a lot of time and effort to meeting the needs of their dogs.

If you are not prepared to train and work your Border collie daily -- yes, daily! -- for an hour or so, then you're really better off with a breed or mix better suited to a less active lifestyle.

Q: We have purchased one of those cat feeders that allows you to fill it with a lot of food. Does this type of feeder promote overeating in our cat? She has put on a couple of pounds since we adopted her from the SPCA. -- T.W., via e-mail

A: I don't recommend free-feeding for most pets, not only because of the propensity of some pets to overeat, but also because free-feeding deprives pet-lovers of the ability to spot changes in eating patterns that can be indicative of health problems. My recommendation would be to feed your cat a measured amount twice a day.

That said, I'm also a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." The weight gain you report may well be fine for your cat, considering that she might have been on the thin side before you got her. If she has a little padding over her ribs, but not a lot, she's fine. If you're not sure, consult your veterinarian. A healthy, normal cat should weigh between 8 and 10 pounds (although some breeds are considerably larger or smaller).

If you and your veterinarian agree your cat is maintaining a proper weight and if you remain alert to changes in her health, then free-feeding may be an acceptable option.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600