Every now and then you'll run across a product that seems so useful that before long you don't know how you ever lived without it. The retractable, reel-type leash (the Flexi is probably the most popular brand) is one such product.

I love my Flexi leashes. When I was driving cross-country last year, the product allowed me to give my dogs up to 30 feet of leash to stretch their legs at roadside rest stops, while keeping them safe from 80 mph traffic that barreled by not 100 yards away. My dogs are responsive to voice commands, but I don't risk them being off-leash in any but the safest areas -- which means I use the Flexi a great deal.

But every piece of equipment has its limits and its rules for safety that can result in great peril if they are disregarded. These leashes are no exception, and lately I've been getting a lot of sad reports from people who relied on the product for more than it was designed to do.

The Flexi is not designed for use with an untrained dog. A dog who pulls at the leash or refuses to come when called back from the end of the leash is at risk for injuring himself, his owner or an innocent bystander. This is not the fault of either the leash or the dog. It's an error on the part of the dog's owner in choosing the wrong piece of equipment.

How can a dog get in trouble on a leash? You'd be surprised. Some dogs have hurt themselves hitting the end of the long leash at full speed, and not having it give way (which is also pretty tough on the human holding the handle). Other dogs have bitten people or other pets, or hurt themselves, after getting too far away on the leash before the handler has time to reel them in, or by pulling the leash out of the owner's hand when reaching the end of the line.

Trainers have been sounding the alarm about the first problem for a while now, especially when the reel-type leash is paired with another recent development in canine control, the head halter. Although reports of injuries are anecdotal, it's not difficult to imagine the problems that can result if a large, strong dog is stopped suddenly by pressure on his neck, or by having his head whipped around by a halter around his muzzle.

As for the other problem -- a dog getting into trouble while at the end of the leash -- I've received a number of such reports in just the last few weeks. I witnessed this at a park once, when a boisterous young shepherd mix hit the end of the line so hard she jerked the handle out of her owner's hand. The reel then retracted the line close behind her, the handle bouncing on the pavement behind the dog and frightening her into a full-fledged panic run that ended with a sickening thud when she was hit by a car.

Perhaps the strangest case I've heard involves a Welsh corgi who ran out of an elevator just as the doors where closing. The elevator went up two flights before the dog's owner got it to stop. In the meantime, the retractable leash extended to its maximum length and then pulled the dog up to the top of the elevator door, suspending him by his neck until someone could get him disconnected. Amazingly, he suffered nothing more than a bruising.

The company that makes the Flexi is aware of the potential problems, and highlights cautionary information in its packages and on its Web site (www.flexiusa.com). If you own this product, you'd do well to read the manufacturer's advice before using it again.

If your dog is out of control, you need a trainer, not a retractable leash. Don't risk injury to yourself or your dog by using this otherwise marvelous product in a way for which it wasn't designed.

PETS ON THE WEB

I've always found appeal in the Abyssinian, a lovely cat with large eyes and a distinctive ticked coat in which each hair is banded with colors. The breed's elegant and graceful physical appearance, combined with a friendly and outgoing personality that's sometimes described as "dog-like," makes the Aby one cat who'll always catch my eye. The Cat Fanciers' Association offers a good overview of the breed, with a page (www.cfainc.org/breeds/profiles/abyssinian.html) that reveals the breed's history, plus links to recommended reading on this gorgeous cat.

THE SCOOP

Years ago I was visiting a friend's house when she complained how disobedient her dog was. The dog, a sweet-natured cocker spaniel, was sitting on the couch beside me when her owner commanded her, "Down!" The dog immediately dropped into a down and was yelled at for her obedience. By "down," the owner didn't mean for the dog to lie down, but rather to get off the couch.

This is why I prefer to teach the command "off" when asking dogs to remove their furry fannies from furniture or beds. It's less confusing and more effective to teach the dog different commands. It's hard for a dog to understand English at all, much less find shades of meaning in different contexts.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have two 2-year-old cats, a brother and sister, and I am thinking of getting a Border-collie puppy. Is this a good idea? I don't want the cats to be hiding under the bed or not being social anymore. I don't want to get the puppy, then realize I made a mistake later. -- J.D. , via e-mail

A: While your cats almost certainly would not vote for adding a puppy to the household, they're young enough that they probably will adjust in time.

Before you add any puppy or dog, be sure to set up a separate area where the cats can feel safe, a no-dogs-allowed room with food, water, litter box, scratching post and more. You may have to keep the cats shut up in that area for a week or two after bringing home the dog, and then put a baby-gate over the door to allow the cats to be away from the dog when they want to be.

Locking the cats up doesn't seem fair to many people, since the cats were there first. But feline behavior experts say cats adjust better to change if provided with a small, quiet area that's just for them during social upheavals such as moving or adding new people or pets to the household.

Now, about that puppy.

The Border collie -- an intense, athletic and highly intelligent animal -- is really not well-suited for the average pet home. They have high requirements when it comes to keeping their mind and body working, and if you don't keep them busy, they'll not be happy campers.

An ideal situation for a Border collie would be a farm with sheep. Close second would be an active partnership with someone who's seriously involved in the sports of canine agility or obedience, where these bright, driven dogs really shine. I do know of people who keep BCs in suburban homes and even urban apartments, but those who do so successfully dedicate a lot of time and effort to meeting the needs of their dogs.

If you are not prepared to train and work your Border collie daily -- yes, daily! -- for an hour or so, then you're really better off with a breed or mix better suited to a less active lifestyle.

Q: We have purchased one of those cat feeders that allows you to fill it with a lot of food. Does this type of feeder promote overeating in our cat? She has put on a couple of pounds since we adopted her from the SPCA. -- T.W., via e-mail

A: I don't recommend free-feeding for most pets, not only because of the propensity of some pets to overeat, but also because free-feeding deprives pet-lovers of the ability to spot changes in eating patterns that can be indicative of health problems. My recommendation would be to feed your cat a measured amount twice a day.

That said, I'm also a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." The weight gain you report may well be fine for your cat, considering that she might have been on the thin side before you got her. If she has a little padding over her ribs, but not a lot, she's fine. If you're not sure, consult your veterinarian. A healthy, normal cat should weigh between 8 and 10 pounds (although some breeds are considerably larger or smaller).

If you and your veterinarian agree your cat is maintaining a proper weight and if you remain alert to changes in her health, then free-feeding may be an acceptable option.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For parrot lovers, there's not much worse than having a pet who plucks out his own feathers. After all, their beautiful plumage is one of the reasons we love having birds around. It's hard to appreciate the appearance of a bird who looks more like a plucked chicken than a lushly and colorfully feathered parrot.

It's harder still to cope when you find out that feather-picking can be very difficult -- if not impossible -- to change.

Feather-picking isn't a disease, but rather a symptom of something else that's gone wrong. The only hope of "curing" feather-picking is finding out and treating what's behind the behavior. And that can be difficult, since any number of underlying problems can be triggering a bird's need to destroy his own plumage. Here are some of the most common:

-- Health problems. Medical conditions behind feather-picking include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths such as cysts in the feather follicle, internal health problems, vitamin deficiencies and hormone-associated problems. And that's the short list!

-- Low humidity. Many pet bird species come from extremely humid environments, and our houses surely can't duplicate the conditions of a rain forest. The dry air of most homes can be a factor in feather-picking.

-- Boredom and pent-up energy. Parrots are active and intelligent, and they don't deal well with the strain of being forced to sit around in a cage all day. Without things to play with and stuff to destroy, and without being able to get out of the cage and exercise, birds may direct all their energy toward self-mutilation.

-- Psychological problems. Although parrots need to have their flight feathers trimmed for safety, a bad wing trim (too short, with no allowance for an "easy landing") can upset a bird so badly that he starts tearing at himself. Obsessive-compulsive disorders can also trigger feather-picking.

-- Attention-seeking. You love how your bird looks. He starts tugging at feathers and you freak, imagining your beautiful bird with the look of a broiler chicken. Every time he touches his feathers -- even for normal preening behavior -- you rush over. See how this works? "Aha!" thinks your bird. "All I have to do to get attention is pull a feather!"

What can be done with the feather-picker? First, forget the over-the-counter and home remedy "cures." They don't work, and some might even put your bird at risk. See a veterinarian with experience in caring for birds as soon as the problem appears. Medical problems need to be addressed before looking at any behavioral strategies. You should make sooner, rather than later, your emphasis. In general, the longer your bird has been picking, the greater the probability of an unresolvable pattern of behavior being set.

After your bird receives a clean bill of physical health, follow your veterinarian's advice and start making environmental adjustments. Prepare for the project to be a long one! Start a diary to record your changes and any effects they may have on your bird's behavior.

Start shaking things up, in small increments. A daily misting with a spray bottle and the addition of a room humidifier may be part of the solution. Also consider different toys, a smaller or larger cage, a new cage location, keeping a radio playing during the day, covering the cage to ensure your bird 12 solid hours of sleep, and more interaction and play with you as possibilities in the war against feather-picking.

In some cases, feather-picking is for life. In others, the problem is only occasional. Yes, some birds do become full-feathered again, but not every problem parrot is bound for complete recovery in the plumage department.

Sometimes the best you can do is be determined to love your bird no matter what he looks like. And that's only fair, considering that he'd do the same for you.

PETS ON THE WEB

The editorial vision behind the wonderful Cats magazine, which folded a few months ago, is now driving a new Web site. Everyone who fancies felines should be sure to check it regularly. The Daily Cat (www.thedailycat.com) is packed with first-class information on feline health and behavior, as well as lots of just plain interesting content about domestic cats and their wild relations.

Dig a little deeper into the well-organized sections, and you'll find a calendar of events, breed profiles and trainings tips. The site has been designed for ease of use, with smooth navigation, colorful, fast-loading pages and snappy writing throughout.

THE SCOOP

If a rabies shot isn't required by law for your cat, should you ask your veterinarian for one? If your cat ever goes outside, the answer is yes.

Even in urban areas, outdoor cats are at risk of being bitten by rabid wild animals, such as skunks, foxes, raccoons or bats. Rabies is so dangerous that, if he were to contract it, your cat would need to be euthanized, and you would need to have a series of inoculations for your own protection.

Rabies is nothing to take a chance on. If your cat goes outside, talk to your veterinarian about protecting your pet and your family with a vaccination against this deadly disease.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a 4-month-old Lab-mix puppy and an 11-year-old cat who aren't getting along after nearly six weeks. We understand the cat is a little overwhelmed by the large bouncing animal who wants to play, but even when the puppy is quiet she growls and swats at him. Do we try to force them together or just hope it works out in time? -- R.H., via e-mail

A: Do not, under any circumstances, force your pets together.

Instead, make sure your cat is able to get away from the puppy whenever she needs to. A good way to accomplish this is to set up a baby gate across the entry to a bedroom where she likes to sleep. Her food and water should also be in an area the puppy can't get to, perhaps on top of the washer or dryer, or other elevated spot. And certainly make sure she can use her litter box in peace -- no one likes to be disturbed in the bathroom!

If you allow her to feel safe in areas where the puppy can't reach her, she should settle down, especially as the puppy matures. Realize, though, that there's a chance she may never warm up to this interloper. Sometimes the best you can hope for when older cats are introduced to new pets is an armed truce.

Q: Our male, neutered Jack Russell terrier turned a year old yesterday and continues to be very aggressive toward children and strangers.

I'm sure this is pretty normal for this breed, but my wife was hoping to have a pet who could be taken to Little League games, etc., and would be more docile around others. He's great with us, but he usually growls, lunges and barks at those with whom he's not comfortable.

I have heard of a puppy boot camp in Wisconsin. Do you know about it, would it be good for him, or should we just send him back to his breeder? -- J.W., via e-mail

A: Aggression is not normal for any breed, although some dogs do show a greater tendency toward developing it if the owners don't catch the signs early.

The aggression is a real concern, and I don't mean to downplay it. But don't be in such a hurry to pack off your pup, either to boot camp or back to the breeder. You need professional help to evaluate your dog: how aggressive he is (as in, does he act tough, or is he actually prepared to bite?), what you have done unwittingly to reward the behavior, and what you can do to extinguish it.

Contact your closest school or college of veterinary medicine and get an appointment with a veterinary behaviorist. (If you live in a large urban area, there might be one in private practice as well. Ask your veterinarian for a referral.) A veterinarian specializing in behavior can evaluate your dog and can prescribe medication that will help with the behavior either permanently or transitionally. He or she will also set out a program for you to follow to work on changing the problem. If, in the behaviorist's opinion, the dog is dangerous and has no reasonable chance of being made safe, you'll be able to work with this specialist to figure out your "what next?"

A Jack Russell will never be a laid-back dog -- and the people who fancy the breed love their energy and spark. But by working with a veterinary behaviorist, you may be able to turn him into a dog who'll happily and safely enjoy Little League games with your family.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Not too long ago, the choke-chain collar was the dominant tool in dog training. You got a dog, you got a choke collar. Maybe you went to obedience class, where you had a chance of learning how to put on and use the collar correctly. Maybe you never learned, hung the dog license on one of the collar rings, and spent the rest of your dog's life walking him with the chain cruelly pulled tight and the animal gasping for air.

Can a choke-chain be humane? Yes, if used properly. The problem is, it's almost impossible for most people to learn or remember which way to put it on, and harder still to develop the skills of light touch and good timing that are required to use the collar effectively. A tool used improperly will never work right, which is why many trainers now recommend using pinch collars or head halters.

The pinch collar -- also called a prong collar -- is made of metal links, with blunt prongs evenly spaced along its length. With a pull of the leash, the collar tightens, pressing the prongs into the dog's skin and getting his attention in a hurry.

There's no doubt the collar is effective when used correctly, especially on strong dogs with well-muscled necks. But because of its appearance, the pinch collar often draws nasty looks and comments on its apparent cruelty. In a way, this is unfortunate. For despite its looks, the pinch collar can be less cruel than the more popular choke-chain collar, especially in the hands of people who don't know how to use the latter. That's because a properly fitted pinch collar cannot be tightened beyond the point of pushing the prongs against the skin, unlike the choke collar, which has no limits -- the harder you or the dog pulls, the tighter it gets.

The pinch collar is easier to put on properly, will not tighten beyond a predetermined point and gets the message across efficiently to even the strongest dog. All of which makes it a good choice for some dogs and some owners, as well as a more humane choice than an incorrectly used choke collar.

The other choice for large dogs, a head halter, has image problems, too, because it looks to many people like a muzzle. When someone sees a 90-pound German shepherd wearing what looks like a muzzle, all the discussion in the world isn't likely to convince that person the dog's not a vicious killer.

But, again, appearance can be deceiving. Head halters such as the Gentle Leader are touted by many as the humane alternative to pinch or choke collars, and rightfully so. They work on the principle of "where the head goes, the body follows," and may make handling a large dog possible for small adults or even children.

With a halter, a tug on the leash puts pressure around the muzzle, and the dog has no choice but to follow his head, which is following you. Is a pinch collar or head halter (or for that matter, the more commonplace choke-chain or buckle collar) right for your out-of-control dog? The best way to find out is to talk to a trainer or behaviorist, who can not only help you make the right choice but also show you the right way to use what you buy and train your dog to make walks the pleasant experience they should be for you both.

PETS ON THE WEB

Yes, the days are slowly getting longer, and winter is easing up its grip. Now is a great time to start a walking program that will benefit you and your dog. But don't step out in early morning or early evening without being sure you can be seen -- with reflective clothing for both you and your dog. Since my dogs are both solid black, I'm very much aware that they are hard to see at twilight and nearly invisible at night.

That's why when we walk in less-than-bright conditions I wear a reflective vest, and they wear bandanas from GlowDog (www.glowdog.com). At $6.95 for a small, $8.50 for a large, the products seem a small investment with a big payoff in safety. The site offers lots of other choices: vests for dogs, leashes, collars and more. You can also call 1-888-GLOWDOG to order products or request a catalog.

THE SCOOP

Did you know that cats can reproduce before they're hardly old enough to grow out of their adorably kittenish behavior? Because cats are such easy and prolific breeders, warmer weather always brings more kittens than there can be homes for, with a single cat being able to produce multiple litters until the weather gets cold again. It's an annual tragedy that can be prevented with spaying or neutering.

Yes, you hear it a million times, from humane organizations, from animal-control agencies, and from your veterinarian and veterinary associations. The people who are responsible for killing the "extras" know that many times a litter of kittens is the result of procrastination -- a pet owner who meant to make that appointment but waited too long. So don't wait. Get your cat altered, right away.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have called everyone I can think of, but each person tells me something different. Two veterinarians in the same office can't even make up their minds. I need to know what type of tree branches can be put in safely with my two green iguanas. I don't want to hurt my babies, so please help this confused mom. -- E.I., via e-mail

A: Most woods are fine -- pine, citrus, maple or manzanita. According to my favorite iguana reference, Melissa Kaplan's "Iguanas for Dummies" ($19.99, Hungry Minds), you do have to treat branches before putting them into your pet's enclosure, to make sure they're clean and bug-free before bringing them into your house.

First, strip the branches of small twigs and loose bark. Next, soak them in a solution of 1/3 cup bleach to a gallon of water for eight hours or so, making sure the solution gets into every hole and chip on the branch. Rinse thoroughly with lots of fresh water. Then let them dry in the sun and fresh air for a couple of days. Alternately, you can bake small branches in a 200- to 250-degree oven for a couple of hours.

Few veterinarians know much about exotic pets, including reptiles and birds. There's just not enough time in veterinary school to fit all but the basic information about these pets, and there's not much economic advantage in taking time to study them after graduation. The good veterinarians will be open about what they don't know and will do some research on your pet's behalf, consulting with specialists. Alternately, you may get referred to a veterinarian who does take a special interest in exotic pets.

If you can find a veterinarian who has an interest in reptiles, you're in good shape. Failing that, get yourself a good reference book like Kaplan's, or bookmark her Web site, www.anapsid.org. Your iggie will thank you!

Q: I read your column on dog-park manners with interest, and I have a problem it didn't address. I think my dog is a nerdy geek. He just doesn't seem to know when other dogs are playing, or he gets fearful and testy when others just want to play. It seems as if he doesn't "speak dog" and is thus always out of step with the other dogs. He's aggressive toward puppies, afraid of the friendly dogs, and comes on like gangbusters with the shy and fearful.

He means well, I think. He's a neutered, 75-pound yellow Lab I rescued from the pound, and he has lots of "issues" that he has slowly but surely been getting over. Any suggestions? -- L.J., via e-mail

A: Dogs learn to "speak dog" from their mom and their littermates. That's why knowledgeable breeders keep litters together until they're at least 7 weeks of age.

Your dog may have been taken from his mom and littermates a couple of weeks too early, missing out on this important developmental stage. Working with a trainer using positive methods will improve your dog's obedience and raise his confidence. That may help him act better in public, but it may not ever make him dog-park material.

While dog parks can be great fun, for some dogs they're just too overwhelming. But sometimes things can work out. Shy dogs, for example, can be taken to the park at off-hours, when there aren't so many other dogs around. These dogs may be able to learn to enjoy the experience as their confidence builds.

Aggressive dogs are another issue entirely. I don't recommend taking a dog with aggressive tendencies to a dog park -- it's too big a risk. Accept that your dog isn't dog-park material, and give him plenty of other opportunities for exercise. He'll probably be less stressed without being forced into a situation he finds confusing and uncomfortable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600