Not too long ago, the choke-chain collar was the dominant tool in dog training. You got a dog, you got a choke collar. Maybe you went to obedience class, where you had a chance of learning how to put on and use the collar correctly. Maybe you never learned, hung the dog license on one of the collar rings, and spent the rest of your dog's life walking him with the chain cruelly pulled tight and the animal gasping for air.

Can a choke-chain be humane? Yes, if used properly. The problem is, it's almost impossible for most people to learn or remember which way to put it on, and harder still to develop the skills of light touch and good timing that are required to use the collar effectively. A tool used improperly will never work right, which is why many trainers now recommend using pinch collars or head halters.

The pinch collar -- also called a prong collar -- is made of metal links, with blunt prongs evenly spaced along its length. With a pull of the leash, the collar tightens, pressing the prongs into the dog's skin and getting his attention in a hurry.

There's no doubt the collar is effective when used correctly, especially on strong dogs with well-muscled necks. But because of its appearance, the pinch collar often draws nasty looks and comments on its apparent cruelty. In a way, this is unfortunate. For despite its looks, the pinch collar can be less cruel than the more popular choke-chain collar, especially in the hands of people who don't know how to use the latter. That's because a properly fitted pinch collar cannot be tightened beyond the point of pushing the prongs against the skin, unlike the choke collar, which has no limits -- the harder you or the dog pulls, the tighter it gets.

The pinch collar is easier to put on properly, will not tighten beyond a predetermined point and gets the message across efficiently to even the strongest dog. All of which makes it a good choice for some dogs and some owners, as well as a more humane choice than an incorrectly used choke collar.

The other choice for large dogs, a head halter, has image problems, too, because it looks to many people like a muzzle. When someone sees a 90-pound German shepherd wearing what looks like a muzzle, all the discussion in the world isn't likely to convince that person the dog's not a vicious killer.

But, again, appearance can be deceiving. Head halters such as the Gentle Leader are touted by many as the humane alternative to pinch or choke collars, and rightfully so. They work on the principle of "where the head goes, the body follows," and may make handling a large dog possible for small adults or even children.

With a halter, a tug on the leash puts pressure around the muzzle, and the dog has no choice but to follow his head, which is following you. Is a pinch collar or head halter (or for that matter, the more commonplace choke-chain or buckle collar) right for your out-of-control dog? The best way to find out is to talk to a trainer or behaviorist, who can not only help you make the right choice but also show you the right way to use what you buy and train your dog to make walks the pleasant experience they should be for you both.

PETS ON THE WEB

Yes, the days are slowly getting longer, and winter is easing up its grip. Now is a great time to start a walking program that will benefit you and your dog. But don't step out in early morning or early evening without being sure you can be seen -- with reflective clothing for both you and your dog. Since my dogs are both solid black, I'm very much aware that they are hard to see at twilight and nearly invisible at night.

That's why when we walk in less-than-bright conditions I wear a reflective vest, and they wear bandanas from GlowDog (www.glowdog.com). At $6.95 for a small, $8.50 for a large, the products seem a small investment with a big payoff in safety. The site offers lots of other choices: vests for dogs, leashes, collars and more. You can also call 1-888-GLOWDOG to order products or request a catalog.

THE SCOOP

Did you know that cats can reproduce before they're hardly old enough to grow out of their adorably kittenish behavior? Because cats are such easy and prolific breeders, warmer weather always brings more kittens than there can be homes for, with a single cat being able to produce multiple litters until the weather gets cold again. It's an annual tragedy that can be prevented with spaying or neutering.

Yes, you hear it a million times, from humane organizations, from animal-control agencies, and from your veterinarian and veterinary associations. The people who are responsible for killing the "extras" know that many times a litter of kittens is the result of procrastination -- a pet owner who meant to make that appointment but waited too long. So don't wait. Get your cat altered, right away.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have called everyone I can think of, but each person tells me something different. Two veterinarians in the same office can't even make up their minds. I need to know what type of tree branches can be put in safely with my two green iguanas. I don't want to hurt my babies, so please help this confused mom. -- E.I., via e-mail

A: Most woods are fine -- pine, citrus, maple or manzanita. According to my favorite iguana reference, Melissa Kaplan's "Iguanas for Dummies" ($19.99, Hungry Minds), you do have to treat branches before putting them into your pet's enclosure, to make sure they're clean and bug-free before bringing them into your house.

First, strip the branches of small twigs and loose bark. Next, soak them in a solution of 1/3 cup bleach to a gallon of water for eight hours or so, making sure the solution gets into every hole and chip on the branch. Rinse thoroughly with lots of fresh water. Then let them dry in the sun and fresh air for a couple of days. Alternately, you can bake small branches in a 200- to 250-degree oven for a couple of hours.

Few veterinarians know much about exotic pets, including reptiles and birds. There's just not enough time in veterinary school to fit all but the basic information about these pets, and there's not much economic advantage in taking time to study them after graduation. The good veterinarians will be open about what they don't know and will do some research on your pet's behalf, consulting with specialists. Alternately, you may get referred to a veterinarian who does take a special interest in exotic pets.

If you can find a veterinarian who has an interest in reptiles, you're in good shape. Failing that, get yourself a good reference book like Kaplan's, or bookmark her Web site, www.anapsid.org. Your iggie will thank you!

Q: I read your column on dog-park manners with interest, and I have a problem it didn't address. I think my dog is a nerdy geek. He just doesn't seem to know when other dogs are playing, or he gets fearful and testy when others just want to play. It seems as if he doesn't "speak dog" and is thus always out of step with the other dogs. He's aggressive toward puppies, afraid of the friendly dogs, and comes on like gangbusters with the shy and fearful.

He means well, I think. He's a neutered, 75-pound yellow Lab I rescued from the pound, and he has lots of "issues" that he has slowly but surely been getting over. Any suggestions? -- L.J., via e-mail

A: Dogs learn to "speak dog" from their mom and their littermates. That's why knowledgeable breeders keep litters together until they're at least 7 weeks of age.

Your dog may have been taken from his mom and littermates a couple of weeks too early, missing out on this important developmental stage. Working with a trainer using positive methods will improve your dog's obedience and raise his confidence. That may help him act better in public, but it may not ever make him dog-park material.

While dog parks can be great fun, for some dogs they're just too overwhelming. But sometimes things can work out. Shy dogs, for example, can be taken to the park at off-hours, when there aren't so many other dogs around. These dogs may be able to learn to enjoy the experience as their confidence builds.

Aggressive dogs are another issue entirely. I don't recommend taking a dog with aggressive tendencies to a dog park -- it's too big a risk. Accept that your dog isn't dog-park material, and give him plenty of other opportunities for exercise. He'll probably be less stressed without being forced into a situation he finds confusing and uncomfortable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Lops, longhairs and miniatures -- rabbits come in a gorgeous variety of body types, fur lengths and coat markings, all united by their potential to be wonderful pets. At this time of year, baby bunnies are everywhere, with many pet stores stocking up on what has been a traditional child's gift for Easter.

But before you pick up one of these baby beauties for your child, those in the business of caring for yesterday's impulsive pet purchases would like you to consider the varieties of rabbit that sadly seem most common of all: Homeless. Unwanted. Abandoned.

Which is why shelter and rescue groups implore you: If you're considering giving a child a pet for Easter, please think and think again.

To be sure, things have improved. Not long ago, it was easy to find baby chicks and ducks dyed in the pastel colors of the season, bought and sold without the slightest regard for their care or their suitability to a city environment. The babies grew up and died in short order, either from improper care or abandonment. Thank heavens people have more sense and compassion these days, so far fewer chicks and ducks are sold as pets.

But the problem of rabbits remains. The biggest concern? Contrary to popular belief, rabbits really aren't suitable as a pets for young children. Rabbits are delicate and can be fatally injured if improperly held. If not handled gently and with respect, they can become nippy in self-defense or fear.

For older children, though, and especially for adults, these quiet, gentle animals are excellent pets. But they do require more than a little cage outside, a water bottle and some food. You'll get a lot more out of a pet rabbit if you bring the animal into your house and your life.

As with any companion animal, the amount of proper care and time you give is paid back many times over. Here are some care tips.

-- Equipment. Your rabbit needs a cage that's at least big enough to stretch out and hop around, and tall enough so he can stand on his hind legs without his ears touching the top. Bigger is better yet! If the floor is wire, at least a portion of the cage should be solid, something that will give the rabbit relief from standing on the wire all the time.

For a food dish, choose a ceramic crock that cannot be chewed or tipped over. A hanging bottle is best for water; make sure the water stays fresh by changing it daily. Rabbits need and love to chew, so be sure there's a chew block available.

-- Health and nutrition. Commercial rabbit pellets are the basis of a proper rabbit diet, but they're not enough to keep a pet happy and healthy. Feed no more than one-quarter cup of pellets per 5 pounds of body weight daily. Fiber is the key to a healthy diet, which is why grass hays such as timothy and oat are important, along with fresh leafy green vegetables such as kale, collard greens, carrot tops and broccoli leaves. Rabbit-lovers learn to pick through the vegetable bins at the grocery store, or ask the produce manager for leafy pieces removed while trimming vegetables for human consumption.

Don't forget to see your veterinarian: Rabbits make better pets if spayed or neutered, and their teeth need regular veterinary attention.

-- Exercise and play. Rabbits were meant to run, which is why the life of a caged pet can be both sad and short. Indoor rabbits can roam around the house under your supervision. Outdoor pets need a half-hour of activity daily in a protected area. Supervision is a must, since rabbits can be scared literally to death by cats, dogs and even jays and crows.

Cat toys, dog toys and even the cardboard tubes inside toilet paper rolls are fun for rabbits, who like to play.

Are you ready for a rabbit? If the answer's yes, forget the Easter sales push and adopt one from a rescue group or humane society. You'll find lots of great pets to choose from, and you'll be saving a life.

PETS ON THE WEB

The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org) is the best site on the Web for anyone looking for information on these sweet-natured pets. Before the HRS, much of the information that was out there was of the 4-H variety -- from people who were raising rabbits for meat.

Thanks are due to the House Rabbit Society's members for helping others to realize the pet potential in these long-overlooked animals. The society's Web site offers information on everything from housing to nutrition to finding a bun-friendly veterinarian. The organization last year marked a world's first: the opening of a shelter exclusively for rabbits in Richmond, Calif.

THE SCOOP

Rabbit rescue groups and shelters are so overwhelmed that the House Rabbit Society has called on industry giant Petco to stop selling rabbits in its stores. The chain is one of those good corporate citizens that doesn't sell kittens and puppies, and instead offers in-store space to nonprofit rescue groups looking to find families for homeless dogs and cats.

The arrangement could not be better for either side, with the charitable groups gaining access to the store's traffic, and the store basking in the goodwill generated by its good deed. Best of all, the policy truly helps to fight the overpopulation of dogs and cats.

What's good for dogs and cats is good for rabbits, too. Let's hope that Petco extends its commendable pro-adoption policies by encouraging rabbit adoptions and ending rabbit sales.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We gave our kids a puppy for Christmas. Cinders is 4 months old now -- destructive, nippy and still not housebroken. We realize now that the advice on not getting a puppy for Christmas is right on. We don't have much time now to work with the dog, and taking a puppy out when it's cold is no fun. Despite the problems, she is a sweet puppy. We've decided as a family to do what it takes to keep her.

We've started working with a trainer, and things are getting better. She has us crating the puppy, and that seems to be helping with the house-breaking. My question: The trainer says it's OK to leave the puppy in the crate all night. Can Cinders really "hold it" that long? -- S.R., via e-mail

A: Some puppies sleep through the night pretty soon after they come home, while others are considerably more fidgety. The younger the puppy, the more likely it is that you'll have to get up at least once to take your little darling outside. Your puppy's crate should be right next to your bed, helping with bonding and making it easier for you to hear your puppy rustling when he needs to go out.

Make sure you're helping your pup to make it through the night by conducting the nighttime ritual properly. Offer your pup her last water no soon than an hour before bedtime, and take her out for one last squat just before you settle her into the crate for the night. If you're letting your pup tank up before bed, she won't make it until morning.

In the daytime, use this rule of thumb: Puppies can "hold it" in a crate for about as long as their age in months: two hours for 2-month-olds, three hours for 3-month-olds, and so on. About five or six hours is the most any dog should be crated, no matter the age.

Kudos to you for recognizing that you need to work to make Cinders the pet you dreamed of when she came to your home. Your puppy's "problems" aren't problems at all -- they're just normal behavior. Keep working with your trainer, and you'll all get through this difficult period.

Q: I've moved with my cat from a house in a quiet neighborhood to one that's very close to a very busy six-lane boulevard. I never worried about Jake being outside before, but with this deadly street just two blocks away, I decided he needed to stay inside for good. He has other ideas, however, and his crying, rushing the door and other behaviors are driving me crazy. How long before he knocks it off and settles down? -- W.G., via e-mail

A: That's going to depend on Jake, but you have made it easier on you both by converting him to an indoor cat at the time of your move. That's because you haven't suddenly cut off your cat from established territory, but have offered him a whole new indoor area to claim as his own.

If you don't give in to his demands by letting him out, he should settle down within a matter of weeks. If you let him out, however, you're rewarding him for putting up a fuss, which means his insistent behavior will get worse. Don't give in!

Be patient but firm, and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post. If possible, give him safe access to the outdoors with a screened-in porch, or a screened window with a cat perch on the inside.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Two weeks passed before I could say the words "Andy died" without choking up, much less discuss the details, much less write about losing him. But as difficult as it was to let go of the dog who'd shared my life for almost 16 years, if you'd asked me a month ago -- when the grief was knife-sharp -- if I'd choose to have him cloned, my answer would have been unequivocal.

I'd have said, "absolutely not."

To me, the idea that animals can be replicated like fashion accessories is an insult to the uniqueness of every pet ever loved.

A clone wouldn't really be Andy. I don't care if his DNA could have been used to create a dog who looks just like he did, a genetic copy along the lines of the adorable calico kitten named "cc" (for copy cat, we were told) that was recently heralded as a major step forward in the effort to produce clones of people's pets.

I understand the desire of scientists to accomplish those things that have never been done before, to expand our knowledge and our possibilities. I don't understand why anyone who has ever loved a pet would want a genetic copy of that animal. Which means I surely don't understand why an animal-lover with more money than most of us will ever see is driving this research, right down to its cute name -- The Missyplicity Project, after a dog named Missy, very much loved and one day, to be cloned.

You could hand me a puppy tomorrow marked just like Andy, right down to the stripe of china blue that ran down the edge of one of his hazel-brown eyes. But it wouldn't be the same animal I first held a few hours after he was born in the late spring of 1986.

That puppy squirmed in protest when I took him away from his mother's side. For all of his life, Andy hated to miss meals -- and then sighed and settled down in my hands when I massaged his jawline with the tip of my thumb.

I did the same thing in the moments before he died and got the same reaction. As his good little heart was quickly giving out and the veterinarian prepared the last injection, I rubbed his jawline and felt him relax trustingly in my arms. A few minutes later, he was gone. He had been a vital, opinionated, sometimes sweet and sometimes bratty presence in my life for all those years between the first time I touched him and the last, but I knew it was time to respect the dog he was and let him go.

A clone of Andy wouldn't be the same because little in the Repeat Andy's life would be the same. My life is different, as are many of my opinions, some of my friends, all of my other pets, and certainly my views of dog training and canine nutrition.

Instead of cloning Andy, I'd rather honor his memory by following the example of those who give to help other animals. Like Cheryl and Dave Duffield, who put millions into the funding of the Alameda, Calif.-based Maddie's Fund, an organization that's reducing the number of unwanted pets. While I don't have millions to contribute, I am working on a project in Andy's memory that will help other pets and the people who love them. For me, that's the best way to keep what's important about him alive, always.

Andy died. More than a month later it's still achingly difficult to say, but it's getting a little easier every day. Goodbyes are oh-so-hard, but I know I never want to say hello to a dog who looks like Andy, but isn't.

PETS ON THE WEB

Everyone is entitled to choose how to honor a pet and how to spend money. You can see for yourself how two very rich families decided to honor two much-loved dogs by visiting the Web sites of the organizations they founded. The Missyplicity Project (www.missyplicity.com) give details on pet cloning, including links to a company that will allow you to store your pet's genetic material for future cloning. Maddie's Fund (www.maddiesfund.org) offers information on the projects it has funded in the quest to create a "no-kill nation."

THE SCOOP

Trying to keep your cats from bothering your houseplants? Start by offering them their own plants to nibble on -- such as tender shoots of rye grass -- and then work to make the other plants less appealing. Hang up those plants you can, and cover the soil of those you can't with sharp decorative rocks to discourage digging. You can make the leaves icky-tasting by coating them with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a 6-month-old soft-coated wheaten terrier and we use a crate to house him in the kitchen. At night he sleeps upstairs in my son's room. Bringing this crate up and down all the time is a hassle. Can we get another crate and leave one upstairs and one down? Or will this confuse the dog? -- R.O., via e-mail

A: Sure, you can add a second crate upstairs. For ease of use, you might make the upstairs crate one of the new mesh varieties. These are not made for containing an unsupervised dog or one who's hell-bent on escaping. But for a half-grown pup who knows that the nighttime crate is for sleeping, a fabric-covered crate might be a lightweight solution. One such brand is Cabana Crates, and you can check them out on the Internet at www.doggonegood.com.

Before you invest further, however, think about the long-term goals for this pup. Crates are one of the best-ever innovations in training when it comes to house-training puppies and dogs and working through destructive behavior. They're also essential safety equipment for travel and for providing a pet with temporary housing during an emergency. But as good as crates can be, they can also be overused.

Ask yourself if you're relying on the crate more to contain your pup rather than train him. A 6-month-old puppy should be pretty well house-trained; he ought to be capable of handling some supervised free time in the home. If your pup is constantly being crated, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can help wean you off over-reliance on the crate. The result will be a dog who can be trusted to be a well-mannered member of the family -- without restraint.

Q: I have a problem with my shepherd mix's nails. They are very long and sharp, and I've gotten some bad scratches from her habit of jumping up on me. The "trim a little each month" system doesn't take care of it quickly enough, nor does walking or running her on hard surfaces. Can dogs have their claws removed like cats can? Or could a vet cut her nails drastically after giving her a tranquilizer? -- K.S., via e-mail

A: While a dog's claws could in theory be surgically removed, it's not commonly done, and you'd have a difficult time finding a veterinarian who'd agree to such a thing.

Instead, get a trainer's help in teaching your dog to keep her feet on the ground, and a veterinarian's in getting her nails to a reasonable length that you can then maintain. You're on track with the idea of getting your veterinarian to cut the nails all the way back while your dog is sedated. This will give you a fresh start to the problem, so trimming a little off each week thereafter will keep the nails short.

Don't make nail-trim time a battle. Have your veterinarian demonstrate proper technique so you don't hurt your dog. Start slowly and build up your pet's tolerance through treats and praise. You may be able to do little more initially than tap the trimmers on your dog's nail, and that's fine. It took me months to get my dog Benjamin to tolerate nail-trims without fuss, but now he takes it in stride because he knows he gets praise and treats when we're done.

Some dogs do better having their nails ground down, rather than cut. You can buy an appliance designed to grind dog nails, or use a rotary tool such as the Dremel to do the same thing. The advantage to grinding is that you won't go too far -- as soon as you see the quick, you stop. As with using a nail-trimming, make sure you introduce a grinder slowly and gradually, with lots of praise and treats along the way.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600