Two weeks passed before I could say the words "Andy died" without choking up, much less discuss the details, much less write about losing him. But as difficult as it was to let go of the dog who'd shared my life for almost 16 years, if you'd asked me a month ago -- when the grief was knife-sharp -- if I'd choose to have him cloned, my answer would have been unequivocal.

I'd have said, "absolutely not."

To me, the idea that animals can be replicated like fashion accessories is an insult to the uniqueness of every pet ever loved.

A clone wouldn't really be Andy. I don't care if his DNA could have been used to create a dog who looks just like he did, a genetic copy along the lines of the adorable calico kitten named "cc" (for copy cat, we were told) that was recently heralded as a major step forward in the effort to produce clones of people's pets.

I understand the desire of scientists to accomplish those things that have never been done before, to expand our knowledge and our possibilities. I don't understand why anyone who has ever loved a pet would want a genetic copy of that animal. Which means I surely don't understand why an animal-lover with more money than most of us will ever see is driving this research, right down to its cute name -- The Missyplicity Project, after a dog named Missy, very much loved and one day, to be cloned.

You could hand me a puppy tomorrow marked just like Andy, right down to the stripe of china blue that ran down the edge of one of his hazel-brown eyes. But it wouldn't be the same animal I first held a few hours after he was born in the late spring of 1986.

That puppy squirmed in protest when I took him away from his mother's side. For all of his life, Andy hated to miss meals -- and then sighed and settled down in my hands when I massaged his jawline with the tip of my thumb.

I did the same thing in the moments before he died and got the same reaction. As his good little heart was quickly giving out and the veterinarian prepared the last injection, I rubbed his jawline and felt him relax trustingly in my arms. A few minutes later, he was gone. He had been a vital, opinionated, sometimes sweet and sometimes bratty presence in my life for all those years between the first time I touched him and the last, but I knew it was time to respect the dog he was and let him go.

A clone of Andy wouldn't be the same because little in the Repeat Andy's life would be the same. My life is different, as are many of my opinions, some of my friends, all of my other pets, and certainly my views of dog training and canine nutrition.

Instead of cloning Andy, I'd rather honor his memory by following the example of those who give to help other animals. Like Cheryl and Dave Duffield, who put millions into the funding of the Alameda, Calif.-based Maddie's Fund, an organization that's reducing the number of unwanted pets. While I don't have millions to contribute, I am working on a project in Andy's memory that will help other pets and the people who love them. For me, that's the best way to keep what's important about him alive, always.

Andy died. More than a month later it's still achingly difficult to say, but it's getting a little easier every day. Goodbyes are oh-so-hard, but I know I never want to say hello to a dog who looks like Andy, but isn't.

PETS ON THE WEB

Everyone is entitled to choose how to honor a pet and how to spend money. You can see for yourself how two very rich families decided to honor two much-loved dogs by visiting the Web sites of the organizations they founded. The Missyplicity Project (www.missyplicity.com) give details on pet cloning, including links to a company that will allow you to store your pet's genetic material for future cloning. Maddie's Fund (www.maddiesfund.org) offers information on the projects it has funded in the quest to create a "no-kill nation."

THE SCOOP

Trying to keep your cats from bothering your houseplants? Start by offering them their own plants to nibble on -- such as tender shoots of rye grass -- and then work to make the other plants less appealing. Hang up those plants you can, and cover the soil of those you can't with sharp decorative rocks to discourage digging. You can make the leaves icky-tasting by coating them with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a 6-month-old soft-coated wheaten terrier and we use a crate to house him in the kitchen. At night he sleeps upstairs in my son's room. Bringing this crate up and down all the time is a hassle. Can we get another crate and leave one upstairs and one down? Or will this confuse the dog? -- R.O., via e-mail

A: Sure, you can add a second crate upstairs. For ease of use, you might make the upstairs crate one of the new mesh varieties. These are not made for containing an unsupervised dog or one who's hell-bent on escaping. But for a half-grown pup who knows that the nighttime crate is for sleeping, a fabric-covered crate might be a lightweight solution. One such brand is Cabana Crates, and you can check them out on the Internet at www.doggonegood.com.

Before you invest further, however, think about the long-term goals for this pup. Crates are one of the best-ever innovations in training when it comes to house-training puppies and dogs and working through destructive behavior. They're also essential safety equipment for travel and for providing a pet with temporary housing during an emergency. But as good as crates can be, they can also be overused.

Ask yourself if you're relying on the crate more to contain your pup rather than train him. A 6-month-old puppy should be pretty well house-trained; he ought to be capable of handling some supervised free time in the home. If your pup is constantly being crated, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can help wean you off over-reliance on the crate. The result will be a dog who can be trusted to be a well-mannered member of the family -- without restraint.

Q: I have a problem with my shepherd mix's nails. They are very long and sharp, and I've gotten some bad scratches from her habit of jumping up on me. The "trim a little each month" system doesn't take care of it quickly enough, nor does walking or running her on hard surfaces. Can dogs have their claws removed like cats can? Or could a vet cut her nails drastically after giving her a tranquilizer? -- K.S., via e-mail

A: While a dog's claws could in theory be surgically removed, it's not commonly done, and you'd have a difficult time finding a veterinarian who'd agree to such a thing.

Instead, get a trainer's help in teaching your dog to keep her feet on the ground, and a veterinarian's in getting her nails to a reasonable length that you can then maintain. You're on track with the idea of getting your veterinarian to cut the nails all the way back while your dog is sedated. This will give you a fresh start to the problem, so trimming a little off each week thereafter will keep the nails short.

Don't make nail-trim time a battle. Have your veterinarian demonstrate proper technique so you don't hurt your dog. Start slowly and build up your pet's tolerance through treats and praise. You may be able to do little more initially than tap the trimmers on your dog's nail, and that's fine. It took me months to get my dog Benjamin to tolerate nail-trims without fuss, but now he takes it in stride because he knows he gets praise and treats when we're done.

Some dogs do better having their nails ground down, rather than cut. You can buy an appliance designed to grind dog nails, or use a rotary tool such as the Dremel to do the same thing. The advantage to grinding is that you won't go too far -- as soon as you see the quick, you stop. As with using a nail-trimming, make sure you introduce a grinder slowly and gradually, with lots of praise and treats along the way.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Reports that Americans are getting fatter doesn't come as a surprise to the many of us who get on a scale regularly. And it certainly isn't news to veterinarians, who've been watching an ever-larger flow of fatter people bring fatter pets into their hospitals and clinics.

Although there's not always a connection -- the dog-show world is full of large people with lean, well-conditioned animals -- most dogs, cats and even birds are getting larger for the same reason people are: too much food and not enough exercise.

Obesity in pets causes a lot of the same problems it does in people. An overweight pet is prone to a host of related problems, including: diabetes, joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart challenges. Overweight cats can even develop skin problems from not being able to groom themselves properly. The overall impact on comfort and longevity can be dire.

The good news is that it's not as difficult to trim down pets as it might be to fight your own battles with the bulge. After all, pets can't open the refrigerator on their own, nor can they grab the car keys for a fast-food

run or phone out for pizza. What pets eat is wholly dependent on what we give them. And although we might shudder at the idea of exercise, our pets are always up for a brisk walk, a game of fetch, or some play with a toy on a

string. They love to move, especially if we're moving with them.

Is your pet overweight? Healthy pets have some padding on them, but a little is plenty. Rub your hands over the ribs of your dog or cat. The skin should move easily back and forth, and you should be able to feel the ribs. Your pet should have a definable "waist" at the bottom of the rib cage, a small tuck-in at the stomach. Take a look from the side: If your pet looks pregnant, he's fat. From above, a bump out from the middle into an apple shape is equally bad news. In birds, look for a thicker breast or rolls of fat.

Certain breeds and species seem more susceptible to spread. In dogs, Labradors beef up pretty easily, as do cockers and beagles. Less-active cats such as Persians are more prone to gaining weight than the go-go breeds such as the Siamese. And in birds, Amazon parrots are the likeliest candidates to become perch potatoes.

Crash diets aren't good for pets, especially not for fat cats, who can develop a fatal liver problem if forced to reduce too quickly. A pet doesn't get fat overnight, and he shouldn't be forced to change course any more rapidly. What you'll need to do is change your pet's eating and exercise habits gradually.

The best place to start is with a trip to your veterinarian. You'll want to make sure your pet doesn't have any problems that might make lifestyle changes difficult or dangerous. Your vet can also suggest a food plan that might help.

Carve some time out of your schedule to walk your dog or play with your cat -- three times a week, at least. Be sure to work in some aerobic exercise, anything that gets a cat or dog running. Birds can benefit from a curled-rope spring perch; they have to work to stay on the thing, decreasing boredom and increasing calorie burn.

Whatever food regimen you and your veterinarian decide on, be determined to stick to it. Get out of the habit of expressing love for your pets by constantly handing them treats. Substitute mini rice cakes and small carrot sticks for the occasional dog treat. Dogs like them just fine, and they're not going to sabotage any weight-loss efforts.

Yes, it'll be hard in the beginning, what with those begging eyes and all. But don't give in. Your pet's life will be happier and longer if he's not burdened by obesity.

PETS ON THE WEB

Although it looks painful, the prong collar is probably easier on a dog's neck than the more-common slip (or choke) collar. That's because unlike the choke, the prong can't tighten down completely and is easier for most people to put on their dogs and use correctly. Dog trainer Janice Frasche has put a good deal of information about prong collars on her Web site (www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4620/prong.html) that will educate any dog lover about this misunderstood piece of training equipment.

THE SCOOP

While summer means that fresh vegetables are plentiful, winter can be a challenge when it comes to your bird eating healthy. The answer, for any time of year, is frozen vegetables. My little Senegal parrot Patrick got as wide a variety of fresh vegetables as I could manage, but he ate so many that came from the freezer that he started to communicate his hunger by imitating the sound of the microwave I used to thaw his meals. An easy way to work in variety: Buy the frozen vegetable combinations, such as those designed for stir-fry.

Q: My mother-in-law plans to move to a new home next June. She has a cat, Melody, who spends most of her time indoors, but part of each day outdoors.

Melody is very independent and will not come when called. When my in-laws' vacation cabin burned down last year, the cat was very frightened and hid in the woods for six weeks. We had to use a live trap to catch her. If she gets lost after the move, we will have a hard time getting her back. My mother-in-law loves her cat very much. We would appreciate any suggestions. -- T.H., Sebastopol, Calif.

A: The best thing that could happen to Melody is for her to become a completely indoor cat. And there's no better time to make the switch than at the time of a move.

Your mother-in-law has the opportunity to make the conversion relatively easy for her cat. The new house will be all new territory to Melody. If she doesn't get out to claim the outdoors for her own she'll accept the space she has with relative ease.

If your mother-in-law insists on Melody continuing her indoor-outdoor existence, she needs to recognize that she risks losing her during the transition and beyond. To minimize this risk, Melody should stay inside for a couple of weeks, at least until the dust settles and household routines become somewhat set. During this time, condition her to come when called by setting up an association between a "Here kitty" and the dispensing of a particularly yummy treat, such as a small bit of canned mackerel, or a teaspoonful of wet cat food.

After the couple of weeks, take her out on a harness and leash and let her explore while supervised for short periods. When she seems settled, let her out for brief periods on her own, ending them by calling her with the "Here kitty." She should now know that you'll be rewarding her with the special treat. Eventually, she'll be coming and going as she pleases, just as at the previous house.

Remember that even if she learns the neighborhood, the outdoor option is risky. Kept safe from cars, coyotes, cat-hating neighbors, infectious disease and more, indoor cats live longer, healthier lives.

Q: If you are truly an animal lover, you would not demean mixed or non-purebred dogs like cockapoos or their breeders, unless you know of a particular breeder that does not live up to proper breeding standards. -- K.D., via e-mail

A: I love the Internet. I really do. Even when someone has obviously passed around my reply to someone asking to find a cockapoo breeder, in which I explained that cockapoos were not a breed, but rather a mix. Lately, I've been swamped with letters from people accusing me of snobbery, or worse.

The level of anger in these letters surprises me. Of course there's nothing wrong with mixed-breed dogs, and I never, ever said there was. But I did say that by definition, a purebred dog is what happens when you mate two dogs of the same breed. A cockapoo is the result of the mating of a cocker and poodle -- two different breeds. This is the very definition of a mixed-breed dog.

I don't think people should be intentionally producing mixed-breed dogs, cockapoos included, when the shelters are full of unwanted pets already. But then, I also don't think the overwhelming majority of people who are breeding purebred dogs should be engaged in that work, either. Overpopulation and the proliferation of health and temperament problems are not the result of responsible breeders, but rather of clueless or careless ones, no matter what breed or mix they're producing.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When a certain family living not far from me goes out of town for the weekend, all the neighbors know it. The reason? The family's lonely, frustrated outdoor dog barks until they come home.

While other neighbors are likely wishing the dog ill in the wee hours of a Sunday morning, I always find myself feeling sorry for him. My less-than-charitable thoughts usually center around the people who are responsible for him -- or should be.

Such people live in every neighborhood. Are you responsible for not keeping the peace in yours? The owners of problem barkers seem to develop an ability to ignore the noise that has their neighbors thinking of legal action -- or maybe murder. But a dog who's barking constantly isn't having any more fun than the neighbors are, and you owe it to both your pet and those who can hear him to fix this problem.

The first step is to figure out why your dog is sounding off so much. Dogs bark to express a variety of emotions: anxiety, boredom, territoriality, aggression, playfulness, hunger. Certain conditions in a dog's environment can trigger these emotions -- and barking fits -- more frequently.

The typical neighborhood nuisance is like the dog who lives near me: an outdoor dog who isn't getting the attention and exercise he needs. Dogs are social animals, and they need to be part of a family. If your dog is outside because of poor manners or because he isn't house-trained, give him another chance. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist, and arrange for an in-home consultation to fix the underlying problems.

Once you've brought him into your life, keep him busy with regular outings. Exercise, both of the body and of the mind, works wonders for all dogs, especially those who bark from boredom or to release excess energy. You'll be amazed at how much calmer, happier -- and quieter -- your dog will be if you exercise him regularly.

For indoor barking, teach your dog to be quiet by distracting him, saying the word "Quiet" or "Enough," and then praising him for minding -- he'll make the connection soon enough, with repetition and lots of praise. Rattling a can filled with pennies is a commonly recommended distraction, and it works well. Shouting at your dog does nothing except make you feel temporarily better.

Work to minimize barking cues to keep your indoor dog quiet when you're not home. If your dog barks while looking through a window that faces the street, keep him out of that room while you're gone. Many dogs fire up when they hear car doors slam; other dogs bark at the mail carrier's steps on the walk. Muffle these sounds by leaving a radio playing while you're not home, and your pet is more likely to sleep than bark. Giving your dog something special to chew on, such as a Kong toy or hollow bone stuffed with a little peanut butter, will help keep him occupied and quiet while he's awake.

For the most persistent barkers, consider an anti-bark collar that works with smell, not shock. These battery-operated collars, which are available online or in catalogs, release a spray of citronella mist each time a dog barks. The mist is harmless to the dog -- the citrus tang smells good to humans, but dogs hate it. The hiss of the mist releasing from the canister and the smell itself are annoying enough to distract the dog and correct him for barking. Surgical debarking is another option, but I don't recommend it unless the barking is putting the dog's life at risk and all other avenues have been tried.

Chances are, though, that if you bring your dog into your home and train him, you'll not even need to consider an anti-bark collar or surgery. Your dog will be happier, and so will your neighbors.

PETS ON THE WEB

What could be easier than breeding dogs? You have a purebred golden retriever, the neighbor has a purebred golden retriever, you put them together and nature takes care of the rest, right? When the puppies are sold, you pocket a couple grand in profit. What could be better? What could be worse is the reality of breeding, which takes considerable time and expense even under the best circumstances. And what about those worst-case scenarios? Check out Jane Johnson's Virtual Breeding Web site: www.geocities.com/bluegracepwd/vb1.html. It will walk you through any number of real-life what-ifs that should get you thinking that maybe spaying or neutering your dog is the best idea yet.

THE SCOOP

Most people know that having a pet can lower your blood pressure. But is there even more to how good having a pet can be for your health? Dr. Marty Becker, veterinary correspondent for "Good Morning America," makes a strong case for a pet prescription for what ails you in his book "The Healing Power of Pets" (Hyperion, $22.95), which is co-authored by Danelle Morton. Some of the stories of people who have been helped by animals will be familiar to anyone who reads much about pets, or watches the Animal Planet cable network. But having them all in one place makes a convincing case for the benefits of having a pet in your life. As if you needed one, right?

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Can cats get colds? My Siamese mix has a crusty nose and seems congested. Should I give her some Tylenol or something? -- S.K., via e-mail

A: First and foremost, never give a pet any medication unless you've run the idea by your veterinarian. Tylenol, a mainstay in many human medicine chests, can kill your cat.

Many cats catch what seem to be "colds" sometime during their lives, and most of these afflictions are caused by viruses. Cats with upper respiratory infections are lethargic, have fevers, runny eyes and noses, and they sneeze and often do not want to eat or drink. A trip to the veterinarian's is a good idea, but call ahead: These viruses are highly contagious, and your veterinarian will likely not want you and your cat sitting in the waiting room with other pets.

As with a cold in humans, so long as the fever is not too high (normal is 100 degrees to 102.5 degrees) and your cat continues to eat and drink, hospitalization can usually be avoided. Keeping your cat's eyes and nostrils free of "crust" by washing gently with a warm, moist cloth helps keep his appetite up. (Cats like to be able to smell their food.) If your cat stops eating and, especially, drinking, dehydration is a danger and hospitalization may be needed. Since upper respiratory infections can be complicated by bacteria, antibiotics are often prescribed as well.

With appropriate care, most cats fully recover in a few days to a week; however, some cases can persist for more than two weeks. If your cat has repeated bouts of upper respiratory infections, your veterinarian may want to test for diseases that weaken the immune system.

Q: If I were to bake a batch of homemade dog treats, hiding pills in each one, would that affect the pills? -- K.M., via e-mail

A: It might. Instead of baking dog-treats that may decrease or eliminate the potency of the medicine or make delivering a proper dose difficult, why not learn to pill your dog?

As with all training, a positive attitude and lots of rewards go a long way. Ask your dog to sit, then praise and treat him for his good behavior. Take the pill, open his mouth, and push it quickly to the back with your fingertip. Then hold his mouth firmly closed, raise his muzzle skyward, and blow gently in his nose while rubbing the front of his throat. The reaction will be a quick gulp. Follow with praise and another treat.

If you worry that your dog might snap at you, or if you don't feel confident enough to manage the technique, stick to the age-old trick of hiding pills in food. Hot dogs are probably the most popular food for this, along with a soft cheese. But experiment with what works best for your dog.

Some dogs go nuts over liver sausage, or try hiding the pill in a little bit of cottage cheese or canned dog food. You may be able to find a product called Rollover in your pet-supply store, a sausage-like food that some show-dog folks use to keep the attention of their animals in the ring. Rollover works well as a pill-hider too.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600