Reports that Americans are getting fatter doesn't come as a surprise to the many of us who get on a scale regularly. And it certainly isn't news to veterinarians, who've been watching an ever-larger flow of fatter people bring fatter pets into their hospitals and clinics.

Although there's not always a connection -- the dog-show world is full of large people with lean, well-conditioned animals -- most dogs, cats and even birds are getting larger for the same reason people are: too much food and not enough exercise.

Obesity in pets causes a lot of the same problems it does in people. An overweight pet is prone to a host of related problems, including: diabetes, joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart challenges. Overweight cats can even develop skin problems from not being able to groom themselves properly. The overall impact on comfort and longevity can be dire.

The good news is that it's not as difficult to trim down pets as it might be to fight your own battles with the bulge. After all, pets can't open the refrigerator on their own, nor can they grab the car keys for a fast-food

run or phone out for pizza. What pets eat is wholly dependent on what we give them. And although we might shudder at the idea of exercise, our pets are always up for a brisk walk, a game of fetch, or some play with a toy on a

string. They love to move, especially if we're moving with them.

Is your pet overweight? Healthy pets have some padding on them, but a little is plenty. Rub your hands over the ribs of your dog or cat. The skin should move easily back and forth, and you should be able to feel the ribs. Your pet should have a definable "waist" at the bottom of the rib cage, a small tuck-in at the stomach. Take a look from the side: If your pet looks pregnant, he's fat. From above, a bump out from the middle into an apple shape is equally bad news. In birds, look for a thicker breast or rolls of fat.

Certain breeds and species seem more susceptible to spread. In dogs, Labradors beef up pretty easily, as do cockers and beagles. Less-active cats such as Persians are more prone to gaining weight than the go-go breeds such as the Siamese. And in birds, Amazon parrots are the likeliest candidates to become perch potatoes.

Crash diets aren't good for pets, especially not for fat cats, who can develop a fatal liver problem if forced to reduce too quickly. A pet doesn't get fat overnight, and he shouldn't be forced to change course any more rapidly. What you'll need to do is change your pet's eating and exercise habits gradually.

The best place to start is with a trip to your veterinarian. You'll want to make sure your pet doesn't have any problems that might make lifestyle changes difficult or dangerous. Your vet can also suggest a food plan that might help.

Carve some time out of your schedule to walk your dog or play with your cat -- three times a week, at least. Be sure to work in some aerobic exercise, anything that gets a cat or dog running. Birds can benefit from a curled-rope spring perch; they have to work to stay on the thing, decreasing boredom and increasing calorie burn.

Whatever food regimen you and your veterinarian decide on, be determined to stick to it. Get out of the habit of expressing love for your pets by constantly handing them treats. Substitute mini rice cakes and small carrot sticks for the occasional dog treat. Dogs like them just fine, and they're not going to sabotage any weight-loss efforts.

Yes, it'll be hard in the beginning, what with those begging eyes and all. But don't give in. Your pet's life will be happier and longer if he's not burdened by obesity.

PETS ON THE WEB

Although it looks painful, the prong collar is probably easier on a dog's neck than the more-common slip (or choke) collar. That's because unlike the choke, the prong can't tighten down completely and is easier for most people to put on their dogs and use correctly. Dog trainer Janice Frasche has put a good deal of information about prong collars on her Web site (www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4620/prong.html) that will educate any dog lover about this misunderstood piece of training equipment.

THE SCOOP

While summer means that fresh vegetables are plentiful, winter can be a challenge when it comes to your bird eating healthy. The answer, for any time of year, is frozen vegetables. My little Senegal parrot Patrick got as wide a variety of fresh vegetables as I could manage, but he ate so many that came from the freezer that he started to communicate his hunger by imitating the sound of the microwave I used to thaw his meals. An easy way to work in variety: Buy the frozen vegetable combinations, such as those designed for stir-fry.

Q: My mother-in-law plans to move to a new home next June. She has a cat, Melody, who spends most of her time indoors, but part of each day outdoors.

Melody is very independent and will not come when called. When my in-laws' vacation cabin burned down last year, the cat was very frightened and hid in the woods for six weeks. We had to use a live trap to catch her. If she gets lost after the move, we will have a hard time getting her back. My mother-in-law loves her cat very much. We would appreciate any suggestions. -- T.H., Sebastopol, Calif.

A: The best thing that could happen to Melody is for her to become a completely indoor cat. And there's no better time to make the switch than at the time of a move.

Your mother-in-law has the opportunity to make the conversion relatively easy for her cat. The new house will be all new territory to Melody. If she doesn't get out to claim the outdoors for her own she'll accept the space she has with relative ease.

If your mother-in-law insists on Melody continuing her indoor-outdoor existence, she needs to recognize that she risks losing her during the transition and beyond. To minimize this risk, Melody should stay inside for a couple of weeks, at least until the dust settles and household routines become somewhat set. During this time, condition her to come when called by setting up an association between a "Here kitty" and the dispensing of a particularly yummy treat, such as a small bit of canned mackerel, or a teaspoonful of wet cat food.

After the couple of weeks, take her out on a harness and leash and let her explore while supervised for short periods. When she seems settled, let her out for brief periods on her own, ending them by calling her with the "Here kitty." She should now know that you'll be rewarding her with the special treat. Eventually, she'll be coming and going as she pleases, just as at the previous house.

Remember that even if she learns the neighborhood, the outdoor option is risky. Kept safe from cars, coyotes, cat-hating neighbors, infectious disease and more, indoor cats live longer, healthier lives.

Q: If you are truly an animal lover, you would not demean mixed or non-purebred dogs like cockapoos or their breeders, unless you know of a particular breeder that does not live up to proper breeding standards. -- K.D., via e-mail

A: I love the Internet. I really do. Even when someone has obviously passed around my reply to someone asking to find a cockapoo breeder, in which I explained that cockapoos were not a breed, but rather a mix. Lately, I've been swamped with letters from people accusing me of snobbery, or worse.

The level of anger in these letters surprises me. Of course there's nothing wrong with mixed-breed dogs, and I never, ever said there was. But I did say that by definition, a purebred dog is what happens when you mate two dogs of the same breed. A cockapoo is the result of the mating of a cocker and poodle -- two different breeds. This is the very definition of a mixed-breed dog.

I don't think people should be intentionally producing mixed-breed dogs, cockapoos included, when the shelters are full of unwanted pets already. But then, I also don't think the overwhelming majority of people who are breeding purebred dogs should be engaged in that work, either. Overpopulation and the proliferation of health and temperament problems are not the result of responsible breeders, but rather of clueless or careless ones, no matter what breed or mix they're producing.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When a certain family living not far from me goes out of town for the weekend, all the neighbors know it. The reason? The family's lonely, frustrated outdoor dog barks until they come home.

While other neighbors are likely wishing the dog ill in the wee hours of a Sunday morning, I always find myself feeling sorry for him. My less-than-charitable thoughts usually center around the people who are responsible for him -- or should be.

Such people live in every neighborhood. Are you responsible for not keeping the peace in yours? The owners of problem barkers seem to develop an ability to ignore the noise that has their neighbors thinking of legal action -- or maybe murder. But a dog who's barking constantly isn't having any more fun than the neighbors are, and you owe it to both your pet and those who can hear him to fix this problem.

The first step is to figure out why your dog is sounding off so much. Dogs bark to express a variety of emotions: anxiety, boredom, territoriality, aggression, playfulness, hunger. Certain conditions in a dog's environment can trigger these emotions -- and barking fits -- more frequently.

The typical neighborhood nuisance is like the dog who lives near me: an outdoor dog who isn't getting the attention and exercise he needs. Dogs are social animals, and they need to be part of a family. If your dog is outside because of poor manners or because he isn't house-trained, give him another chance. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist, and arrange for an in-home consultation to fix the underlying problems.

Once you've brought him into your life, keep him busy with regular outings. Exercise, both of the body and of the mind, works wonders for all dogs, especially those who bark from boredom or to release excess energy. You'll be amazed at how much calmer, happier -- and quieter -- your dog will be if you exercise him regularly.

For indoor barking, teach your dog to be quiet by distracting him, saying the word "Quiet" or "Enough," and then praising him for minding -- he'll make the connection soon enough, with repetition and lots of praise. Rattling a can filled with pennies is a commonly recommended distraction, and it works well. Shouting at your dog does nothing except make you feel temporarily better.

Work to minimize barking cues to keep your indoor dog quiet when you're not home. If your dog barks while looking through a window that faces the street, keep him out of that room while you're gone. Many dogs fire up when they hear car doors slam; other dogs bark at the mail carrier's steps on the walk. Muffle these sounds by leaving a radio playing while you're not home, and your pet is more likely to sleep than bark. Giving your dog something special to chew on, such as a Kong toy or hollow bone stuffed with a little peanut butter, will help keep him occupied and quiet while he's awake.

For the most persistent barkers, consider an anti-bark collar that works with smell, not shock. These battery-operated collars, which are available online or in catalogs, release a spray of citronella mist each time a dog barks. The mist is harmless to the dog -- the citrus tang smells good to humans, but dogs hate it. The hiss of the mist releasing from the canister and the smell itself are annoying enough to distract the dog and correct him for barking. Surgical debarking is another option, but I don't recommend it unless the barking is putting the dog's life at risk and all other avenues have been tried.

Chances are, though, that if you bring your dog into your home and train him, you'll not even need to consider an anti-bark collar or surgery. Your dog will be happier, and so will your neighbors.

PETS ON THE WEB

What could be easier than breeding dogs? You have a purebred golden retriever, the neighbor has a purebred golden retriever, you put them together and nature takes care of the rest, right? When the puppies are sold, you pocket a couple grand in profit. What could be better? What could be worse is the reality of breeding, which takes considerable time and expense even under the best circumstances. And what about those worst-case scenarios? Check out Jane Johnson's Virtual Breeding Web site: www.geocities.com/bluegracepwd/vb1.html. It will walk you through any number of real-life what-ifs that should get you thinking that maybe spaying or neutering your dog is the best idea yet.

THE SCOOP

Most people know that having a pet can lower your blood pressure. But is there even more to how good having a pet can be for your health? Dr. Marty Becker, veterinary correspondent for "Good Morning America," makes a strong case for a pet prescription for what ails you in his book "The Healing Power of Pets" (Hyperion, $22.95), which is co-authored by Danelle Morton. Some of the stories of people who have been helped by animals will be familiar to anyone who reads much about pets, or watches the Animal Planet cable network. But having them all in one place makes a convincing case for the benefits of having a pet in your life. As if you needed one, right?

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Can cats get colds? My Siamese mix has a crusty nose and seems congested. Should I give her some Tylenol or something? -- S.K., via e-mail

A: First and foremost, never give a pet any medication unless you've run the idea by your veterinarian. Tylenol, a mainstay in many human medicine chests, can kill your cat.

Many cats catch what seem to be "colds" sometime during their lives, and most of these afflictions are caused by viruses. Cats with upper respiratory infections are lethargic, have fevers, runny eyes and noses, and they sneeze and often do not want to eat or drink. A trip to the veterinarian's is a good idea, but call ahead: These viruses are highly contagious, and your veterinarian will likely not want you and your cat sitting in the waiting room with other pets.

As with a cold in humans, so long as the fever is not too high (normal is 100 degrees to 102.5 degrees) and your cat continues to eat and drink, hospitalization can usually be avoided. Keeping your cat's eyes and nostrils free of "crust" by washing gently with a warm, moist cloth helps keep his appetite up. (Cats like to be able to smell their food.) If your cat stops eating and, especially, drinking, dehydration is a danger and hospitalization may be needed. Since upper respiratory infections can be complicated by bacteria, antibiotics are often prescribed as well.

With appropriate care, most cats fully recover in a few days to a week; however, some cases can persist for more than two weeks. If your cat has repeated bouts of upper respiratory infections, your veterinarian may want to test for diseases that weaken the immune system.

Q: If I were to bake a batch of homemade dog treats, hiding pills in each one, would that affect the pills? -- K.M., via e-mail

A: It might. Instead of baking dog-treats that may decrease or eliminate the potency of the medicine or make delivering a proper dose difficult, why not learn to pill your dog?

As with all training, a positive attitude and lots of rewards go a long way. Ask your dog to sit, then praise and treat him for his good behavior. Take the pill, open his mouth, and push it quickly to the back with your fingertip. Then hold his mouth firmly closed, raise his muzzle skyward, and blow gently in his nose while rubbing the front of his throat. The reaction will be a quick gulp. Follow with praise and another treat.

If you worry that your dog might snap at you, or if you don't feel confident enough to manage the technique, stick to the age-old trick of hiding pills in food. Hot dogs are probably the most popular food for this, along with a soft cheese. But experiment with what works best for your dog.

Some dogs go nuts over liver sausage, or try hiding the pill in a little bit of cottage cheese or canned dog food. You may be able to find a product called Rollover in your pet-supply store, a sausage-like food that some show-dog folks use to keep the attention of their animals in the ring. Rollover works well as a pill-hider too.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If a stray turns up on your back porch and you can't find an owner, or if you inherit an older cat from a relative or friend who has passed on, or if you end up with an extra cat for any other reason, you want to find the best home you can. And that can be difficult.

Adult cats can be very hard to place. They have the lowest rates of adoption for all animals at shelters. If you're patient and persistent, however, you may find a home. Here are some tips to follow:

-- Do everything you can to make the animal more adoptable. The pet has a better chance for adoption if her vaccinations are current, she uses her litter box reliably, and she's altered.

-- Ask a price. People show more respect for something they've paid for, and a price tag dampens the interest of profiteers, such as those who collect "free to good home" pets for sale to research labs or to people who train dogs for fighting. A good rule of thumb: Charge an amount sufficient to cover the cost of the spaying/neutering and vaccinations.

-- Don't lie about the pet's problems or why she's being placed. Although finding a new home for a pet with problems takes longer, you can usually still do so. But the person who gets such a pet without warning is likely to bring her back, take her to a shelter or give her away -- maybe to a horrible situation.

-- Spread the news. Make up fliers, and take out an ad in your newspaper and on the Internet. Post the fliers everywhere you can: bulletin boards at work, pet-supply stores and your veterinarian's office. Give some to your friends and family to post where they work, too. Talk up the cat (at least briefly) with everyone you know. Even people who don't like cats (or don't want one) may know someone who is looking for a pet. The more exposure you can get, the better. If a thousand people hear or read about the animal, you probably will get no interest from 999, but you need only one person to provide a good home for the cat. And that's the one you need to reach.

-- Ask lots of questions and verify that the answers are true. Don't forget to ask prospective adopters whether they've had pets before and what happened to them. Make sure you're dealing with people who realize that owning a pet is a long-term commitment. The person who has had a lot of pets who disappeared, died young or were given away is probably not your best choice. My favorite question: Who's your veterinarian? Someone who cannot at least name a vet or a veterinary hospital may have pets who don't go there very often.

-- Set a reasonable time limit for yourself to place the animal, and do everything you can during that time. If you cannot find a home, do not turn out the cat. Do not take the animal "to the country" or otherwise turn him loose to fend for himself. People who live in the country can't care for all the pets who are dumped there. The kinder folks take them to a shelter; others shoot them, poison them or drown them. Even in the "wilderness," the lives of feral cats are full of suffering, shortened by disease or accident. Don't put a cat through this horror. Take her to a shelter if you cannot keep her or find her a new home.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want a great way to get both you and your dog in shape and have a marvelous time doing it? Take up agility. Based loosely on English show-jumping, the sport won't stop growing, with more enthusiastic dog-handler teams in training than ever before. Dogs of all sizes and shapes, purebred and not, enjoy heading over and through the various obstacles, and they benefit from the time spent with their owners. One of the best spots on the Web to learn about agility is the Dog Patch agility page (www.dogpatch.org/agility). Clean and well-organized, the site offers articles, discussion groups and graphics of various courses, as well as links to other sites on agility and agility-trained dogs.

THE SCOOP

The "s" hooks given out with some pet ID tags are a royal pain. The hooks are hard to fasten correctly, even using pliers, and they always seem to be falling off the collar, giving up the tag or catching on something. A better choice for fastening tags is the split-ring. Many tag makers offer you a choice of fasteners, but if that's not the case, ditch the "s" hooks and head to the hardware store. Split-rings are available cheaply there, in the key section. (I like split-rings made for keys better, in fact, because they're generally sturdier than the ones that come with tags.) You don't have to break your nails to get tags (or keys) on these rings. Use a staple remover to pull them wide enough to slide on the tags.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We adopted a dog recently from the local shelter, and she's a sweetie. We do have one problem, though, and we need help because it's so disgusting. She eats out of the litter box. We've yelled at her and smacked her, but she just gets more crafty. What can we do to stop this? Yuck! --D.C., via the Internet

A: You're not alone in your disgust. Litter-munching dogs are a top-10 reader complaint, year in and year out. As incredible as the thought seems to humans, many dogs do indeed consider cat feces to be every bit as wonderful as dog biscuits -- they're drawn to the undigested protein.

Faced with constant supply and ready access, no dog can resist for long, which is why efforts to train a dog to leave the litter box alone are rarely successful. The better plan is to restrict access. You can do this in a several ways, and it doesn't hurt to experiment. What deters one dog may not stop another.

Changing the litter box location is probably the easiest and least expensive solution. It may be possible to find a spot too high for your dog to cruise. Barriers are another strategy. You can rig the door to the room containing the litter box so that it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. Another possibility is to install a cat-sized door in the bottom of the door to the litter-box room if your dog is medium-sized or larger. For small dogs, try a baby gate -- a cat can jump it, but a small dog can't. You can also try a covered litter box.

Whatever you do, make sure your cat is comfortable with the change, or chances are you'll end up with another equally disturbing problem: a cat who avoids the litter box.

Q: Our blue-and-gold macaw loves to fly. Since he's never out of the house, we don't see the problem in letting him fly. It's cruel to deny birds flight, and we hope more bird lovers will realize that. Will you spread the word? -- F.H., via the Internet

A: I'm afraid I can't. Even inside the house the dangers are too many for a flighted bird.

Flying is one of those things that adds to the incredible appeal of birds, their mystique and their wonder. We envy them, for only recently in human experience have we been able to fly. And let's be honest, blasting place-to-place inside a jet-propelled metal tube hardly has the same panache.

Not all pet birds should have their flight feathers kept short, just those who come out of their cages to interact with their owners. Finches and canaries are happier if not handled or allowed out, and their feathers should be left alone so they can fly in their cages for exercise.

But when it comes to most parrots, our homes are not safe for flighted birds. Any avian veterinarian can tell you about birds who have slammed into windows, or have landed in sizzling frying pans or boiling pots of water. Some have even flown into an open toilet and drowned.

Another problem with a flighted bird: Losing your pet is just one open window or door away.

Your bird can indeed have a happy, healthy life without ever taking to the air. Your bird's veterinarian or a reputable bird shop will be happy to show you how to trim wings, or do it for you if you'd rather not try it on your own.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600