One of my friends has a cat who adores her so much that he follows when she walks the family dog. A notorious cat-about-town, he stops his prowling at exactly the time his beloved human should be coming home from work. If she's home, he's home, and usually within 20 feet of her.

But his adoration doesn't stop him from grabbing her arm while she's petting him, digging in his claws and delivering a not-so-gentle bite.

My friend is quite certain her cat is crazy. I know he's just one of those cats who don't handle stimulation well. The good news: Her cat thinks she's the center of the universe. The better news: The cat can be trained to treat her that way, too.

Both genetics and social factors contribute to how likely a cat is to bite or claw while being petted. Some cats are born with short fuses; others are made that way (or made worse) through a lack of early socialization or proper training in their kittenhoods. That's why it's important to never let a kitten come to believe fingers are for chewing on, even in play. Redirect your kitten's playful energy to toys instead. And never hit a kitten or cat for biting, since you'll make it more likely, not less, that your pet will strike faster in fear and self-defense the next time.

Natural activity levels also play a part in how much petting a cat will tolerate. Cats from large-breed backgrounds (think Maine coon) are generally mellow in temperament, willing to sit quietly while being petted. So-called Oriental breeds or mixes (think Siamese or Burmese) are usually more interested in being on the go.

But no matter how hair-trigger the setting on your cat's attack mode, you can work to increase your pet's tolerance for petting by paying close attention to his body language as you slowly increase the amount of time during which he'll calmly accept your attention.

You should also be aware that some places are more sensitive than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses at first to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are well-outnumbered by the cats who'll seek to stop it with teeth and claws.

Work to build your cat's tolerance to touch over time. When you pick your cat up for a petting session, don't surprise him. Come up on him slowly and pick him up gently, making sure his whole body is supported with a hand under his chest and one beneath his legs.

Pet him in less-reactive areas on his body, watching for the first sign of a tail twitch. When you get that early warning sign, stop petting and let your cat leave if he wants to. The idea is to work up to just short of the point where your pet becomes uncomfortable and then stop, so you can gradually increase his tolerance for petting. For some cats, the addition of treats during petting can also help the reconditioning process.

If you miss the signs and end up in your cat's nonaffectionate embrace, just freeze. Providing no resistance will help calm your cat so he'll just let go, usually in a few seconds. If you fight back or physically punish your cat, you are more likely to get bitten or scratched in the short run, and damage your relationship with your pet in the long run.

Be patient, and be satisfied with small improvements as you go. As any cat lover will tell you, teaching your cat to tolerate petting is well worth the effort -- for both of you.

PETS ON THE WEB

Every year I get a lush color catalog from Doyle New York, drumming up publicity and business for the company's annual auction of fine art with a canine theme. Every year I flip through the catalog, sighing heavily both in appreciation and resignation -- I adore looking but, like most of us, I'm not one of those folks who can write a check for tens of thousands of dollars for a 19th-century portrait of some spaniels. (Last year's top dog, a painting of two English setters, fetched $96,000.)

Fortunately, the folks at Doyle have promised to put the entire collection online for those who'd like to look, in hopes of attracting those who can buy. The auction starts at 1 p.m. EST on Feb. 12 on the mega-rich Upper East Side of Manhattan. The offerings will appear on the Web site (www.doylenewyork.com) sometime before the opening bid.

THE SCOOP

If you're looking for sweet songs, choose a male canary over a female. Males are more likely to sing, an attribute designed not to amuse human caretakers but rather to attract a mate and ward off competitors. A bird must be in good health to sing, so if your male canary's consistently quiet, see a veterinarian with experience in avian patients to get your bird back on track.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We bought a puppy from a pet store. Within an hour she was coughing. I took her to a veterinarian, and he said it was kennel cough. A couple of days later, the puppy had pneumonia. I got my money back, but now I have no puppy and four upset children. I need to find them a miniature schnauzer puppy quick! Can you help? -- S.M., via e-mail

A: I'm so sorry for what you went through and for that poor pup. I can't offer you a puppy, but I can surely offer you some very important advice: Slow down.

Finding a dog "quick" might mean a repeat of what you've already been through. If you're looking for a purebred puppy, you need to find a reputable breeder, work with that breeder, and take your time.

Purebred dogs are well-known for their expensive health problems, everything from skeletal disorders to congenital deafness and blindness. A well-bred and properly socialized purebred pup is healthy and has wonderful pet potential. Unfortunately, too many purebreds are a risk from the start.

Why? Because many of those selling dogs don't know or don't care about screening breeding stock for congenital health defects, and they don't bother to ensure that puppies are safely socialized, gently exposed from birth to the everyday sights, smells and sounds of normal human life. Even a pup who is otherwise healthy can become a difficult pet if not handled properly from day one, forever shy, aggressive or difficult to house-train.

A dog show is a good place to start your search for a reputable breeder, and so, too, is the Web site of the national breed club. You can find out about upcoming dog shows on the InfoDog Web site (www.infodog.com). More information on choosing a breeder and links to breed clubs can be found on the American Kennel Club's Web site (www.akc.org).

Q: My husband and I are considering getting two puppies. We've had mixed feedback about this and would like your advice.

I've found that animal shelters and veterinarians recommend getting two pups at the same time so they can play together while we're away from home. However, dog trainers have been very negative about getting two puppies at the same time.

If you recommend only one pup at a time, how do you think we should keep the one puppy occupied while we're at work during the day? -- K.U., via e-mail

A: I'm with the trainers you've consulted: Two puppies are one puppy too many for most people.

Two puppies who are raised together will often bond more tightly with each other than with the human members of the house, especially if they spend a lot of time alone together. House-training can be a challenge with two puppies, because fresh messes from the one who's not getting it quickly may prompt backsliding in the other pup. Obedience training and all-important socialization can also be hard, since you have to find the time to work with each puppy individually.

If you wish to have two dogs relatively quickly, I'd recommend adopting an adult dog and then a puppy. Give the adult dog a couple of months to settle before bringing in the pup. You'll still need to work with both individually, but if you choose properly, the adult dog should slide easily into your life, giving you ample time to work with the puppy. If you want to start with puppies, wait until the first puppy is a year to 18 months of age before adding another pup.

What will one puppy do alone when you're at work? For the most part, sleep. Set the baby up in a small, secure area with safe chew toys and he'll be fine.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Heather comes from a family of overachievers. Her littermates are all show champions with field, obedience and agility titles galore. Her mom and dad are both in their breed's hall of fame.

She came to me when she was a year old, and since then she has been queen not of dog shows and field trials, but of couches, beaches and dog parks. The fault for good potential gone bad, if it must be assigned, is all mine.

I used to be a competitor. Every day I'd run home from work, grab a dog and head out to train. I traveled hundreds of miles to work one-on-one with top trainers or to compete in shows or trials. I was serious and dedicated.

We did pretty well, those early dogs and I; we got some titles, won some trophies. But then I decided I'd rather just hang out with the dogs -- take a walk or play a game of fetch, teach them a trick that would make a child laugh, or work on manners that would make it possible for the dogs to be welcomed most anywhere.

We're starting to train for the sport of dog agility, but just because the retrievers consider it more play than work. By and large I decided long ago that I would be content if my well-bred working dogs played for the rest their lives. We didn't need any more titles.

But we went for one more, because it's important. Heather and my other retriever, the big, goofy Benjamin, are now each certified as a Canine Good Citizen (CGC) by the American Kennel Club. It's not much compared to the multiple titles of Heather's siblings, or even the honors earned years ago by the long-retired Andy, a once-keen competitor now pushing 16. But we did it because I like what the program stands for and want to encourage its potential by example.

It's no secret that as a society we have mixed feelings about dogs. Our hearts warm to those dogs who serve as search-and-rescue dogs, or as helpers to those who are blind or use wheelchairs. We can't get enough stories of therapy dogs who bring a smile to the face of an autistic child or an older person with Alzheimer's. But we can't pass laws fast enough in an effort to protect ourselves from other dogs, after such events as the horrifying attack in San Francisco last year by a pair of animals who are the stuff of nightmares.

A friendly, well-mannered dog is a pleasure to keep and an asset to the community. In my neighborhood, a park that was inhabited mostly by drug dealers changed dramatically once dog-lovers started exercising their pets there. (And picking up after them, of course.) Places are always safer when people and well-mannered dogs frequent them.

The Canine Good Citizen is about acknowledging such dogs, for the good of all dogs and those who love them. The program isn't about trophies or precise and rigid obedience. Its 10 tests are meant to identify those dogs who behave with calm, friendly confidence, whether at the veterinarian's, in a crowd or meeting other dogs. They are dogs who know the basics of on-leash obedience, even if they may need gentle encouragement to practice it.

To put it simply, Canine Good Citizens are good dogs.

Heather earned her CGC despite my attack of nerves. Benjamin did her one better, partnering with a pre-teen boy he hadn't known but an hour and still passing easily.

The Canine Good Citizen title isn't going to get either one of them into their breed's hall of fame, but by supporting the program that acknowledges good dogs like mine, I did something to help keep all good dogs welcome in public spaces.

In the long run, I figure, that's more important than a Best in Show at Westminster.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Canine Good Citizen program may be run by the top registry for purebred dogs in the United States, but it's open to every dog, no matter its breeding. For more information on the program, visit the AKC's Web page (www.akc.org). You'll find a link to the Canine Good Citizen program on the lead page.

THE SCOOP

Now and then I get letters from people who are worried about their young cats. It seems the animal -- always a female -- sometimes rolls around on the floor, crying as if in discomfort. It's not constant, so they haven't taken the animal to the veterinarian. But they're wondering if they should be worried and if the situation is going to get worse.

No, worrying isn't necessary. And yes, the situation will get worse, because the cat will soon be pregnant. That's because the described behavior -- a rolling and yowling female cat -- is consistent with a cat who's in heat. The solution is a simple one: Make that spaying appointment right away.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband and I are looking for a dog and have been reading your book "Dogs for Dummies" to help us choose. The golden retriever club in our area has a 6-year-old male available for adoption. My husband and I met the dog last night at the current owner's house.

The dog seemed quite friendly and happy, except that he was very demanding of attention and growled and bared his teeth at my husband. He also snapped a little. This dog hasn't had any formal training, and the dog's owner seems to have let him have his own way quite a lot. He hasn't had a lot of grooming or bathing and hasn't lived with cats. He is also intact, although the rescue group will have him neutered.

My husband and I have two cats who are fairly timid, and we've never owned a dog before. Does this sound like too much for first-time dog owners to handle? -- H.L., via e-mail

A: Let me make this easy for you: Run. While the behavior problems this dog is showing may be fixable by someone with good training skills and a solid knowledge of canine behavior, he is clearly not for beginners. Any dog who growls or snaps when meeting new people is not one you should be thinking about adopting.

Goldens have a reputation for being sweet and easygoing, but I've known plenty who were not. Just because a dog is a golden doesn't automatically make the animal a perfect pet. Dog experts call such thinking the "Lassie syndrome": People see a breed in the media and start thinking that all dogs of that breed behave like the ones on TV do. Wrong!

Sometimes the problem is the result of a misunderstanding of what the breed's really like. Other times the difference between image and reality exists because overpopularity has had a negative affect on the breed.

The latter is the problem with goldens. A well-bred, properly trained and socialized golden retriever is about as nice a dog as you'll ever know. (But not perfect, especially in terms of shedding!) But because of the breed's popularity, you'll find plenty of goldens with serious health and temperament problems, thanks to clueless or careless breeders who jumped into the puppy business to make a buck.

Talk to the rescue group again, explaining why this dog won't work for you. Ask for leads on other dogs who need homes. If that doesn't work, visit the Golden Retrievers in Cyberspace Web site (www.golden-retriever.com) to find other rescue groups.

There are lots of great goldens and other dogs out there who deserve a break. Don't waste your loving home on a dog who'll give you grief.

Q: I have a 17-year-old cat. How old is that in "human" years? I'm guessing the "1 equals 7" rule for dogs doesn't apply to cats. -- M.D., via e-mail

A: The "1 equals 7" rule doesn't really apply for dogs, either. Consider: A dog who's a year old is a young adult, far more mature than a 7-year-old human child. I've heard of "1 equals 4" or "1 equals 5" rules for cats, but those don't make sense, for the same reasons the dog figures fail.

Sorry I can't offer you anything that's easy to remember, but here's the way to figure out the rough human equivalent of a cat's age: Figure the first year as taking the cat to around 15 or so, and the second year as equating to mid-20s in a human. After that, add four "human years" for each "cat year." That would put your cat at the equivalent of 85 years old in human terms -- a very honorable age, indeed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The beak of a bird is a tool with many features. It's a weapon that can put a dent in any enemy or damage the relationship with a friend. It can be a delicate tool for feeding a newly hatched chick, or for the precise adjustment of feathers while grooming. With their beaks, some birds can pick a lock, crush a walnut or peel the skin off a grape.

Beak shapes and sizes vary widely, depending mostly on the kind of food a certain species eats. The short, straight bill of canaries and other finches is ideal for plucking out seeds, grubs and other edibles. Birds of the parrot family -- including budgies, cockatiels and the larger parrots such as macaws -- are known as "hookbills" because of the shape and function of their beaks.

At its most basic, the beak on our parrot pets consists of two hard structures, the upper and lower mandibles, along with an amazingly agile and strong tongue.

The beaks of most parrots are remarkably well-designed for one of their most important tasks: cracking, crushing, prying or otherwise destroying the protective coatings around many of the foods they like to eat. Like everything else on a creature designed for flight, the beak is surprisingly lightweight considering its strength -- a hard shell of constantly growing material (similar to that found on antlers) placed over a hollow bony structure. (If a beak were made of solid bone, its weight would probably force a bird to spend his life on the ground, and on his nose.)

Lightweight it may be, but the hookbill's beak is also very strong. Although a person would need a hammer or nutcracker to get through hard shells to the nut meat, a bird needs only his beak -- and perhaps a foot to hold the nut in place. A parrot will rotate the seed to find the seam with his tongue, apply pressure to crack it at this weak spot, and then rotate it again to slide the meat free -- all in a few seconds' time.

A parrot has such strength in his beak that owners are often surprised to see even the bars of a metal cage fall victim. Birds have been known to pick off the welds holding bars together -- and sometimes get lead or zinc poisoning as a result -- or even snap the bars themselves. That's why a cheap cage with shoddy construction will turn out to be no bargain when faced with the destructive abilities of a bird.

Contrary to advice that still can be found in books or on the Internet, beak trims should not be a part of routine health maintenance for birds. Although beaks are constantly growing at a rate of 1 to 3 inches per year, depending on the species, the beak of a healthy bird will remain at a healthy length with normal chewing activities.

Overgrowth of the beak is frequently a sign of illness, such as liver disease or malnutrition. Any bird whose beak seems to be too long needs to see a veterinarian expert in avian medicine to determine the cause of the problem and treat it accordingly.

Using those beaks often is essential to both the physical and emotional well-being of birds. Even finches and canaries will often have better beak health if you provide cuttlebone or another hard material for them to work with their beaks in their cage. As a caring bird-keeper, be sure you're doing more for your bird's beak than just admiring its amazing form and function. Provide your pet bird with lots of things to chew on, an unending variety of toys and perches meant to be gleefully destroyed.

PETS ON THE WEB

What wood is safe for perches? What's an alternative to messy pomegranates for a healthy treat for your bird? What are the basics of a home first-aid kit for winged pets? Pharmacist and bird-lover Gillian Willis has accumulated accurate answers to some basic (and not so basic) questions on her Web site, Gillian's Help Desk (www.exoticbird.com/gillian). While no Web site should be used in place of a veterinarian's advice when a bird is ill, Gillian's site offers some good preventive-care measures that might help you avoid a problem or two along the way.

THE SCOOP

Old dogs sometimes get finicky, and it can be a trick to keep them eating. While you may be tempted to add table scraps such as meat trimmings to their dish, it's really not that good an idea. Foods that are too fatty or spicy can cause a tummy ache, or even an attack of pancreatitis, which could be deadly. When I have fussy oldsters, I rely on canned broth to add interest to a meal. Choose a variety that's low on fat and salt, warm to just above room temperature and add to food for a savory broth. You can also squeeze the juice from a clove of garlic into the mix -- many dogs love the stuff!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We love our new bunny, and we've been giving her bits of the vegetables we eat in addition to her pellets. Is it good to indulge her, or should we try to stick to the pellets alone? -- K.S., via e-mail

A: While rabbit pellets (1/4 cup per 5 pounds of body weight) form the basis of a healthy diet, you should supplement your new pet's rations with fresh greens. Fiber is especially important, which is why your bunny should have an endless supply of grass hay to nibble on -- fresh timothy and oat.

Dark-green leafy vegetables are great, too. For a special treat, ask for the leaves off broccoli heads in the produce department of your supermarket, along with the tops of carrots or beets. Bugs Bunny knew the score: The carrots themselves are good, too.

More rabbit-friendly foods include dandelion greens and flowers (collected from pesticide-free areas), kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, endive, Swiss chard, parsley, clover, cabbage, green peppers, pea pods, brussels sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, radicchio, bok choy and spinach. Variety is the spice of life, so keep things mixed up.

I can never talk about bunnies without putting in a pitch for the House Rabbit Society. This marvelous organization has advanced the cause of rabbits as indoor pets for people of all ages, offering good advice on all things bunny. This nonprofit group has a sharp newsletter and a Web site (www.rabbit.org) that no rabbit fan should miss. Membership is $18 a year. Send your name and address to: House Rabbit Society, 148 Broadway, Richmond, CA 94804.

Q: We have a miniature poodle named Heather who has, at 10, some horrible problems with her teeth. The veterinarian wants us to put Heather under and remove some teeth and clean the others. We're really worried about the risks of anesthesia at her age. Isn't it dangerous? -- R.Y., via e-mail

A: It's true that no anesthetic procedure is without risk. But in the hands of a good veterinarian, anesthesia has become a routine and very safe procedure -- with risks so low that you should not be dissuaded from pursuing necessary preventive or other surgical procedures for your pet.

The risks can be greatly minimized by a history, physical examination and a few basic tests beforehand, including a laboratory evaluation of blood and urine, and possibly a chest X-ray. Although these tests admittedly add to the cost of a procedure, they enable your veterinarian to fully understand the health status of your pet before anesthetizing her. During the procedure, placement of an IV catheter and administration of fluids can further add to the safety of the procedure.

Be sure to follow your veterinarian's instructions. If no food is specified, make sure that you deliver your pet with an empty stomach. Following this one piece of advice is one of the easiest and most basic ways to reduce risk. During anesthesia, the contents of a full stomach can be regurgitated with the unfortunate potential complication of being inhaled into the lungs. In general, you should completely withhold food the night before, but continue to allow free access to water until the morning of the procedure.

My own oldster, Andy, was anesthetized for a minor but necessary procedure last year at the advanced age of 14. Did I worry? Of course! But the potential benefits outweighed the risks, so I arranged all the precautions I could and took a chance on his behalf. He's doing so well now, I figure I made the right decision.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600