The beak of a bird is a tool with many features. It's a weapon that can put a dent in any enemy or damage the relationship with a friend. It can be a delicate tool for feeding a newly hatched chick, or for the precise adjustment of feathers while grooming. With their beaks, some birds can pick a lock, crush a walnut or peel the skin off a grape.

Beak shapes and sizes vary widely, depending mostly on the kind of food a certain species eats. The short, straight bill of canaries and other finches is ideal for plucking out seeds, grubs and other edibles. Birds of the parrot family -- including budgies, cockatiels and the larger parrots such as macaws -- are known as "hookbills" because of the shape and function of their beaks.

At its most basic, the beak on our parrot pets consists of two hard structures, the upper and lower mandibles, along with an amazingly agile and strong tongue.

The beaks of most parrots are remarkably well-designed for one of their most important tasks: cracking, crushing, prying or otherwise destroying the protective coatings around many of the foods they like to eat. Like everything else on a creature designed for flight, the beak is surprisingly lightweight considering its strength -- a hard shell of constantly growing material (similar to that found on antlers) placed over a hollow bony structure. (If a beak were made of solid bone, its weight would probably force a bird to spend his life on the ground, and on his nose.)

Lightweight it may be, but the hookbill's beak is also very strong. Although a person would need a hammer or nutcracker to get through hard shells to the nut meat, a bird needs only his beak -- and perhaps a foot to hold the nut in place. A parrot will rotate the seed to find the seam with his tongue, apply pressure to crack it at this weak spot, and then rotate it again to slide the meat free -- all in a few seconds' time.

A parrot has such strength in his beak that owners are often surprised to see even the bars of a metal cage fall victim. Birds have been known to pick off the welds holding bars together -- and sometimes get lead or zinc poisoning as a result -- or even snap the bars themselves. That's why a cheap cage with shoddy construction will turn out to be no bargain when faced with the destructive abilities of a bird.

Contrary to advice that still can be found in books or on the Internet, beak trims should not be a part of routine health maintenance for birds. Although beaks are constantly growing at a rate of 1 to 3 inches per year, depending on the species, the beak of a healthy bird will remain at a healthy length with normal chewing activities.

Overgrowth of the beak is frequently a sign of illness, such as liver disease or malnutrition. Any bird whose beak seems to be too long needs to see a veterinarian expert in avian medicine to determine the cause of the problem and treat it accordingly.

Using those beaks often is essential to both the physical and emotional well-being of birds. Even finches and canaries will often have better beak health if you provide cuttlebone or another hard material for them to work with their beaks in their cage. As a caring bird-keeper, be sure you're doing more for your bird's beak than just admiring its amazing form and function. Provide your pet bird with lots of things to chew on, an unending variety of toys and perches meant to be gleefully destroyed.

PETS ON THE WEB

What wood is safe for perches? What's an alternative to messy pomegranates for a healthy treat for your bird? What are the basics of a home first-aid kit for winged pets? Pharmacist and bird-lover Gillian Willis has accumulated accurate answers to some basic (and not so basic) questions on her Web site, Gillian's Help Desk (www.exoticbird.com/gillian). While no Web site should be used in place of a veterinarian's advice when a bird is ill, Gillian's site offers some good preventive-care measures that might help you avoid a problem or two along the way.

THE SCOOP

Old dogs sometimes get finicky, and it can be a trick to keep them eating. While you may be tempted to add table scraps such as meat trimmings to their dish, it's really not that good an idea. Foods that are too fatty or spicy can cause a tummy ache, or even an attack of pancreatitis, which could be deadly. When I have fussy oldsters, I rely on canned broth to add interest to a meal. Choose a variety that's low on fat and salt, warm to just above room temperature and add to food for a savory broth. You can also squeeze the juice from a clove of garlic into the mix -- many dogs love the stuff!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We love our new bunny, and we've been giving her bits of the vegetables we eat in addition to her pellets. Is it good to indulge her, or should we try to stick to the pellets alone? -- K.S., via e-mail

A: While rabbit pellets (1/4 cup per 5 pounds of body weight) form the basis of a healthy diet, you should supplement your new pet's rations with fresh greens. Fiber is especially important, which is why your bunny should have an endless supply of grass hay to nibble on -- fresh timothy and oat.

Dark-green leafy vegetables are great, too. For a special treat, ask for the leaves off broccoli heads in the produce department of your supermarket, along with the tops of carrots or beets. Bugs Bunny knew the score: The carrots themselves are good, too.

More rabbit-friendly foods include dandelion greens and flowers (collected from pesticide-free areas), kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, endive, Swiss chard, parsley, clover, cabbage, green peppers, pea pods, brussels sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, radicchio, bok choy and spinach. Variety is the spice of life, so keep things mixed up.

I can never talk about bunnies without putting in a pitch for the House Rabbit Society. This marvelous organization has advanced the cause of rabbits as indoor pets for people of all ages, offering good advice on all things bunny. This nonprofit group has a sharp newsletter and a Web site (www.rabbit.org) that no rabbit fan should miss. Membership is $18 a year. Send your name and address to: House Rabbit Society, 148 Broadway, Richmond, CA 94804.

Q: We have a miniature poodle named Heather who has, at 10, some horrible problems with her teeth. The veterinarian wants us to put Heather under and remove some teeth and clean the others. We're really worried about the risks of anesthesia at her age. Isn't it dangerous? -- R.Y., via e-mail

A: It's true that no anesthetic procedure is without risk. But in the hands of a good veterinarian, anesthesia has become a routine and very safe procedure -- with risks so low that you should not be dissuaded from pursuing necessary preventive or other surgical procedures for your pet.

The risks can be greatly minimized by a history, physical examination and a few basic tests beforehand, including a laboratory evaluation of blood and urine, and possibly a chest X-ray. Although these tests admittedly add to the cost of a procedure, they enable your veterinarian to fully understand the health status of your pet before anesthetizing her. During the procedure, placement of an IV catheter and administration of fluids can further add to the safety of the procedure.

Be sure to follow your veterinarian's instructions. If no food is specified, make sure that you deliver your pet with an empty stomach. Following this one piece of advice is one of the easiest and most basic ways to reduce risk. During anesthesia, the contents of a full stomach can be regurgitated with the unfortunate potential complication of being inhaled into the lungs. In general, you should completely withhold food the night before, but continue to allow free access to water until the morning of the procedure.

My own oldster, Andy, was anesthetized for a minor but necessary procedure last year at the advanced age of 14. Did I worry? Of course! But the potential benefits outweighed the risks, so I arranged all the precautions I could and took a chance on his behalf. He's doing so well now, I figure I made the right decision.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Before a stray puppy came into my home last month, I hadn't spent more than an hour or two at a time in the company of puppies for many a year. The last two dogs to join my family came to me as adults, and both were already house-trained and had some basic training.

Within a day or two of the puppy's arrival, I was reminded both of how much fun a puppy can be and also of how much work. Which is why when Molly went to her new home, I felt both sadness and unmistakable relief. No more puppy crazies, no more puppy accidents. No more puppy fun, either, but at least the house was quiet again.

As adorable as puppies can be, anyone who's raising one will tell you that they can drive you crazy. To get through those sometimes trying months and come out with the dog you want, always remember two things in dealing with puppies: Be patient and be positive.

Every puppy needs to be guided on the road to good behavior, and along the way many a puppy strays off the path into trouble. The best way to avoid problems is to set up your home and your handling of the puppy so his only choice is to do what's right and get praised for it. But what if your puppy makes a mistake?

A verbal correction, properly timed and correctly delivered, is usually all you need. Speak low and sharply, but don't yell at your puppy. Really, all you're doing is providing a distraction to stop and then redirect the errant behavior.

Here are a few more ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and guides the puppy to one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, such as a toy. When he takes it, praise him.

With older puppies, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Ask the puppy who's jumping up to "sit" -- and praise or give him a treat for doing so. Tell him once, and if he doesn't mind (to be fair, be sure he understands what you want), gently guide him into a sit, and then praise and treat.

-- The time-out. Puppies thrive on your attention, even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward. This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and them clam up, pick him up and put him in a crate or other small, safe area for a few minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After a few minutes of quiet, let him out without fanfare and let him hang out with you gently for a while.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him down for a nap in a crate or small area, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

Corrections have their place in puppy-raising, but in general a positive approach is much preferred by today's dog-training experts. If you find yourself resorting to any of these techniques constantly, you could probably do with some help from a trainer to spot what you're doing wrong with your puppy and to make some constructive suggestions.

Better yet, get your youngster into puppy classes once he's had the last of his puppy shots. A well-run puppy class offers your new pet essential socialization and introduces the concept of good manners in a fun and pleasant way for you both.

Don't let your puppy grow up to be a monster. Be patient and positive, and be sparing with corrections. And don't forget: Get help at the first sign of trouble and you'll save yourself a lot of trouble down the road.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Morris Animal Foundation (www.morrisanimalfoundation.org) funds research at veterinary schools and colleges that seeks to cure some of the diseases that claim the lives of companion animals. Founded in 1948 by veterinarian Mark Morris (who founded the company now known as Hill's Pet Nutrition), the foundation has given more than $25 million for more than 1,000 animal-health studies. The foundation's Web site offers detailed information on studies in progress, and on upcoming events.

THE SCOOP

In the wild, reports Melissa Kaplan in her marvelous book "Iguanas for Dummies" (Hungry Minds, $19.99), iguanas keep themselves sort of clean by rubbing against rough bark or dousing themselves in swimming holes. In captivity, rough bark and swimming holes are rare, which is why Kaplan recommends frequent -- as often as daily -- bathing for these pets.

Fill the bathtub chest-deep to the iguana and let the pet enjoy the warm water -- no soap, please! -- to his heart's content. Blot the animal dry with a towel and return to the enclosure before thoroughly disinfecting the tub.

An important note of caution: If there are children or immune-compromised individuals in the home, use a completely separate bathtub for the iguana. Even with careful disinfecting, the consequences of bacterial infection for immune-compromised folks are too dire to take any chances.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Have you heard of shorthaired cats shedding tremendously? I have a white part-Siamese cat who sheds wherever he touches. -- T.A., via e-mail

A: Assuming the fur coat looks healthy -- sleek, shiny and full with no bare patches -- your cat is probably shedding a normal amount, which is to say constantly.

It's a myth that longhaired pets shed more than shorthaired ones. The former just appear to shed more because the hairs they lose are more visible. Your cat's shedding may seem more prolific because the fur is white, and thus shows easily on any dark-colored piece of clothing.

You can't stop shedding, nor should you try to. It's a normal process for a healthy cat in which old fur is replaced by new. You can reduce the impact of shedding by grooming your cat daily. After all, the fur you catch on a brush won't show up on your clothes or furniture.

For shorthaired cats, try a grooming glove. These have nubs to catch the fur while you're petting your cat. A couple of minutes a day will collect a large amount of the loose fur that's ready to be shed.

Q: I think you have a cool job, and I want one like it. How does one start writing about pets? -- A.T., via e-mail

A: You start by wanting to, and by caring about animals. I like to recommend taking a class in free-lance writing, which you can often find at a community college. These courses teach you the basics of marketing your ideas, contacting editors and more. You can also find books on the business of writing, including those put out by the publishing arm of Writer's Digest magazine.

A great way to break in is by writing for the newsletters or magazines of nonprofit groups, such as animal shelters, breed clubs or pet-therapy groups. While they generally don't pay, these publications will provide you with the experience and clips you need to show to editors at national publications.

Read the publications you want to write for to get a feel for the subject matter they're interested in. You wouldn't want to pitch an anti-hunting piece to a hunting-dog magazine, for example, or a pro-hunting piece to an animal-rights magazine. You also need to know what has been covered lately, so you don't waste your time or the editor's pitching an idea that's already been done.

Finally, consider joining the Dog Writers Association of America (www.dwaa.org) or the Cat Writers' Association (www.catwriters.org). These groups support and encourage people who write about animals through an annual conference (co-sponsored by both groups) and competitions (held by each). Sorry, there are no groups (at least not yet) for those who write about reptiles, birds or rodent pets.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

In the last couple of years I've lost rather a lot of weight in a dramatically permanent way -- through surgery -- and gained a significantly more dog-friendly life.

No more driving to the edge of a park -- when I wasn't too exhausted to do even that -- and throwing a ball for the two big dogs. Now we walk for miles together. Once I thought wistfully how good the smart and athletic younger retriever Heather would be at the sport of dog agility, and wouldn't it be nice if I were capable of even walking around the training area with her? Now I can run an agility course, and we'll be starting classes this spring.

I'm happier and healthier now, and so are the dogs. But there is a small cloud over this sunny situation: Pets, I'm finding, surely complicate dating.

The fact that I'm in a position now to find this out is very good news, and I realize that. I weigh less and feel better than I did in high school some 25 years ago, and look better than I have in my entire life. But for the life of me I cannot understand why men who know that I write columns and books about pets would be surprised to find out that I have them, and are even more taken aback by the fact that they're a non-negotiable part of my life.

My pets love me unconditionally, no more or no less now than before my physical transformation. Setting aside the fact that I truly care about animals, what sort of person would I be to reward my pets for their loyalty by dumping them in favor of someone who wouldn't have asked me out on a bet before?

Still, just by the odds alone, I ought to be meeting some animal lovers. But even when I seem to have done so, things have a way of proving otherwise. For example, there was the man who said he loved dogs when we met, but the first words out of his mouth when the dogs and I greeted him at the front door were: "Oh! I didn't realize you let them in the house. Ugh."

I sighed and mentally crossed him off the list. Can you imagine what he'd say if he knew the dogs slept on the bed?

Then there was the man who found -- and carefully removed -- the single stray strand of dog hair that remained on my jacket after I'd lint-rollered myself from head to toe before meeting him. I shuddered to think what he'd think about the dog hair in my house, which is far more pervasive despite my best efforts there, too.

The world is full of pet lovers; I know this is true because I get hundreds of letters from them every month. So where are the pet-loving men when a pet-loving woman is thinking about dating? Instead, I seem to be a magnet for every man who sneezes at the very mention of a cat, cannot fathom the charm of parrots, or professes dogs to be dirty, smelly and not fit for human companionship.

Sure, I know that loving -- or at least tolerating -- pets is only one piece of the puzzle that is a successful relationship. Common values, shared interests, politics and more all factor in, as well. But I also know that I would rather spend the rest of my life dateless than give up my pets, even as I secretly hope I won't remain single forever. Surely, things will work out as they're meant to, with human and animal companionship both in my life.

For now, though, I'm just going to stop worrying about it. Unless ... say, you wouldn't happen to know a nice single veterinarian, would you?

PETS ON THE WEB

I take a lot of pet-related publications, everything from The Bark (a literary journal for dog lovers) to Cat Fancy, Dog World, Bird Talk and more. But month in and month out, the one publication I can't wait to open is the Whole Dog Journal, an advertising-free newsletter that covers the best in so-called "alternative" health care and nutrition, reward-based training, and great gear for dogs and the people who love them.

The WDJ has a wonderful Web site (www.whole-dog-journal.com), which offers to subscribers all current content for free and archived articles at a small charge, and also provides non-subscribers with a way to order content article by article, albeit at a rate that's high enough to encourage subscribing. Great links, too! Regular mail subscriptions are $24 for 12 issues by writing: P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-02345. Or by phone: (800) 829-9165. They can also be ordered through the Web site.

THE SCOOP

No matter how thoroughly your pet licks clean the food dish, it's not clean enough to use again without washing. That goes for water dishes, too, that often get added to but never emptied for days at a time. I've seen water dishes with the beginnings of algae colonies forming on the sides and the bottom -- who'd want to drink from that?!

Pick up your pet's food dish after every meal, scrub and wash in hot water and soap. The water dish should get the same treatment, on a daily basis. Better still, run them through the hottest cycle of the dishwasher to get them really clean and sterilized. Stainless steel or heavy plastic "crock-style" dishes are best for frequent cleaning: They last forever and stand up well to the abuse a pet can dish out.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have an affectionate and playful miniature lop rabbit who lives in the house and is a full member of the family -- no outside hutch for her! One of my daughter's classmates has a rabbit the family no longer wants, and my daughter is asking us to adopt him. I've said yes, but the new rabbit is a male, and we certainly don't want the pair of them to do what comes naturally (if you get my drift). Can rabbits be spayed and neutered? -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Yes, rabbits certainly can be altered. And just as with dogs and cats, neutering and spaying eliminates many health and behavior problems. Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's lifespan, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine. Put simply: Spayed and neutered rabbits make better pets.

Despite all the benefits, however, anesthesia is a little trickier with rabbits than with dogs and cats. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia, listening for the magic word: isoflurane, which is preferred for use with rabbits. The final safety precaution is yours. Follow your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

Bless your kind heart in giving an unwanted rabbit a second chance. Too many parents dump pets when the child for whom they were purchased loses interest. The message this sends to children -- living things are disposable -- is perfectly dreadful.

Q: I disagree with your enthusiasm for collars. I've owned cats for years, and I never keep collars on them. It's too dangerous! Collars can get caught on things and kill a pet. Will you share that information? -- D.W., Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: Some people resist cat collars because they're afraid their roaming pet will get the collar caught and become trapped. That's why cat collars are equipped with elastic, so the cat can slip out of them when necessary. The reason why collars are so very important is because of ID. If your pet doesn't have an ID tag, the chances of him getting home if he's lost drop dramatically. If your cat is indoors full time and you're absolutely sure he'll never get out to wander, you don't need to put a collar on him. Otherwise, you do.

Years ago, a shelter director told me that she had never, ever pulled a cat skeleton out of a tree after the animal had been caught there by a collar, but every day she saw animals put down because their owners couldn't be found. It's all a matter of comparing risk.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600