Before a stray puppy came into my home last month, I hadn't spent more than an hour or two at a time in the company of puppies for many a year. The last two dogs to join my family came to me as adults, and both were already house-trained and had some basic training.

Within a day or two of the puppy's arrival, I was reminded both of how much fun a puppy can be and also of how much work. Which is why when Molly went to her new home, I felt both sadness and unmistakable relief. No more puppy crazies, no more puppy accidents. No more puppy fun, either, but at least the house was quiet again.

As adorable as puppies can be, anyone who's raising one will tell you that they can drive you crazy. To get through those sometimes trying months and come out with the dog you want, always remember two things in dealing with puppies: Be patient and be positive.

Every puppy needs to be guided on the road to good behavior, and along the way many a puppy strays off the path into trouble. The best way to avoid problems is to set up your home and your handling of the puppy so his only choice is to do what's right and get praised for it. But what if your puppy makes a mistake?

A verbal correction, properly timed and correctly delivered, is usually all you need. Speak low and sharply, but don't yell at your puppy. Really, all you're doing is providing a distraction to stop and then redirect the errant behavior.

Here are a few more ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and guides the puppy to one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, such as a toy. When he takes it, praise him.

With older puppies, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Ask the puppy who's jumping up to "sit" -- and praise or give him a treat for doing so. Tell him once, and if he doesn't mind (to be fair, be sure he understands what you want), gently guide him into a sit, and then praise and treat.

-- The time-out. Puppies thrive on your attention, even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward. This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and them clam up, pick him up and put him in a crate or other small, safe area for a few minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After a few minutes of quiet, let him out without fanfare and let him hang out with you gently for a while.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him down for a nap in a crate or small area, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

Corrections have their place in puppy-raising, but in general a positive approach is much preferred by today's dog-training experts. If you find yourself resorting to any of these techniques constantly, you could probably do with some help from a trainer to spot what you're doing wrong with your puppy and to make some constructive suggestions.

Better yet, get your youngster into puppy classes once he's had the last of his puppy shots. A well-run puppy class offers your new pet essential socialization and introduces the concept of good manners in a fun and pleasant way for you both.

Don't let your puppy grow up to be a monster. Be patient and positive, and be sparing with corrections. And don't forget: Get help at the first sign of trouble and you'll save yourself a lot of trouble down the road.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Morris Animal Foundation (www.morrisanimalfoundation.org) funds research at veterinary schools and colleges that seeks to cure some of the diseases that claim the lives of companion animals. Founded in 1948 by veterinarian Mark Morris (who founded the company now known as Hill's Pet Nutrition), the foundation has given more than $25 million for more than 1,000 animal-health studies. The foundation's Web site offers detailed information on studies in progress, and on upcoming events.

THE SCOOP

In the wild, reports Melissa Kaplan in her marvelous book "Iguanas for Dummies" (Hungry Minds, $19.99), iguanas keep themselves sort of clean by rubbing against rough bark or dousing themselves in swimming holes. In captivity, rough bark and swimming holes are rare, which is why Kaplan recommends frequent -- as often as daily -- bathing for these pets.

Fill the bathtub chest-deep to the iguana and let the pet enjoy the warm water -- no soap, please! -- to his heart's content. Blot the animal dry with a towel and return to the enclosure before thoroughly disinfecting the tub.

An important note of caution: If there are children or immune-compromised individuals in the home, use a completely separate bathtub for the iguana. Even with careful disinfecting, the consequences of bacterial infection for immune-compromised folks are too dire to take any chances.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Have you heard of shorthaired cats shedding tremendously? I have a white part-Siamese cat who sheds wherever he touches. -- T.A., via e-mail

A: Assuming the fur coat looks healthy -- sleek, shiny and full with no bare patches -- your cat is probably shedding a normal amount, which is to say constantly.

It's a myth that longhaired pets shed more than shorthaired ones. The former just appear to shed more because the hairs they lose are more visible. Your cat's shedding may seem more prolific because the fur is white, and thus shows easily on any dark-colored piece of clothing.

You can't stop shedding, nor should you try to. It's a normal process for a healthy cat in which old fur is replaced by new. You can reduce the impact of shedding by grooming your cat daily. After all, the fur you catch on a brush won't show up on your clothes or furniture.

For shorthaired cats, try a grooming glove. These have nubs to catch the fur while you're petting your cat. A couple of minutes a day will collect a large amount of the loose fur that's ready to be shed.

Q: I think you have a cool job, and I want one like it. How does one start writing about pets? -- A.T., via e-mail

A: You start by wanting to, and by caring about animals. I like to recommend taking a class in free-lance writing, which you can often find at a community college. These courses teach you the basics of marketing your ideas, contacting editors and more. You can also find books on the business of writing, including those put out by the publishing arm of Writer's Digest magazine.

A great way to break in is by writing for the newsletters or magazines of nonprofit groups, such as animal shelters, breed clubs or pet-therapy groups. While they generally don't pay, these publications will provide you with the experience and clips you need to show to editors at national publications.

Read the publications you want to write for to get a feel for the subject matter they're interested in. You wouldn't want to pitch an anti-hunting piece to a hunting-dog magazine, for example, or a pro-hunting piece to an animal-rights magazine. You also need to know what has been covered lately, so you don't waste your time or the editor's pitching an idea that's already been done.

Finally, consider joining the Dog Writers Association of America (www.dwaa.org) or the Cat Writers' Association (www.catwriters.org). These groups support and encourage people who write about animals through an annual conference (co-sponsored by both groups) and competitions (held by each). Sorry, there are no groups (at least not yet) for those who write about reptiles, birds or rodent pets.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

In the last couple of years I've lost rather a lot of weight in a dramatically permanent way -- through surgery -- and gained a significantly more dog-friendly life.

No more driving to the edge of a park -- when I wasn't too exhausted to do even that -- and throwing a ball for the two big dogs. Now we walk for miles together. Once I thought wistfully how good the smart and athletic younger retriever Heather would be at the sport of dog agility, and wouldn't it be nice if I were capable of even walking around the training area with her? Now I can run an agility course, and we'll be starting classes this spring.

I'm happier and healthier now, and so are the dogs. But there is a small cloud over this sunny situation: Pets, I'm finding, surely complicate dating.

The fact that I'm in a position now to find this out is very good news, and I realize that. I weigh less and feel better than I did in high school some 25 years ago, and look better than I have in my entire life. But for the life of me I cannot understand why men who know that I write columns and books about pets would be surprised to find out that I have them, and are even more taken aback by the fact that they're a non-negotiable part of my life.

My pets love me unconditionally, no more or no less now than before my physical transformation. Setting aside the fact that I truly care about animals, what sort of person would I be to reward my pets for their loyalty by dumping them in favor of someone who wouldn't have asked me out on a bet before?

Still, just by the odds alone, I ought to be meeting some animal lovers. But even when I seem to have done so, things have a way of proving otherwise. For example, there was the man who said he loved dogs when we met, but the first words out of his mouth when the dogs and I greeted him at the front door were: "Oh! I didn't realize you let them in the house. Ugh."

I sighed and mentally crossed him off the list. Can you imagine what he'd say if he knew the dogs slept on the bed?

Then there was the man who found -- and carefully removed -- the single stray strand of dog hair that remained on my jacket after I'd lint-rollered myself from head to toe before meeting him. I shuddered to think what he'd think about the dog hair in my house, which is far more pervasive despite my best efforts there, too.

The world is full of pet lovers; I know this is true because I get hundreds of letters from them every month. So where are the pet-loving men when a pet-loving woman is thinking about dating? Instead, I seem to be a magnet for every man who sneezes at the very mention of a cat, cannot fathom the charm of parrots, or professes dogs to be dirty, smelly and not fit for human companionship.

Sure, I know that loving -- or at least tolerating -- pets is only one piece of the puzzle that is a successful relationship. Common values, shared interests, politics and more all factor in, as well. But I also know that I would rather spend the rest of my life dateless than give up my pets, even as I secretly hope I won't remain single forever. Surely, things will work out as they're meant to, with human and animal companionship both in my life.

For now, though, I'm just going to stop worrying about it. Unless ... say, you wouldn't happen to know a nice single veterinarian, would you?

PETS ON THE WEB

I take a lot of pet-related publications, everything from The Bark (a literary journal for dog lovers) to Cat Fancy, Dog World, Bird Talk and more. But month in and month out, the one publication I can't wait to open is the Whole Dog Journal, an advertising-free newsletter that covers the best in so-called "alternative" health care and nutrition, reward-based training, and great gear for dogs and the people who love them.

The WDJ has a wonderful Web site (www.whole-dog-journal.com), which offers to subscribers all current content for free and archived articles at a small charge, and also provides non-subscribers with a way to order content article by article, albeit at a rate that's high enough to encourage subscribing. Great links, too! Regular mail subscriptions are $24 for 12 issues by writing: P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-02345. Or by phone: (800) 829-9165. They can also be ordered through the Web site.

THE SCOOP

No matter how thoroughly your pet licks clean the food dish, it's not clean enough to use again without washing. That goes for water dishes, too, that often get added to but never emptied for days at a time. I've seen water dishes with the beginnings of algae colonies forming on the sides and the bottom -- who'd want to drink from that?!

Pick up your pet's food dish after every meal, scrub and wash in hot water and soap. The water dish should get the same treatment, on a daily basis. Better still, run them through the hottest cycle of the dishwasher to get them really clean and sterilized. Stainless steel or heavy plastic "crock-style" dishes are best for frequent cleaning: They last forever and stand up well to the abuse a pet can dish out.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have an affectionate and playful miniature lop rabbit who lives in the house and is a full member of the family -- no outside hutch for her! One of my daughter's classmates has a rabbit the family no longer wants, and my daughter is asking us to adopt him. I've said yes, but the new rabbit is a male, and we certainly don't want the pair of them to do what comes naturally (if you get my drift). Can rabbits be spayed and neutered? -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Yes, rabbits certainly can be altered. And just as with dogs and cats, neutering and spaying eliminates many health and behavior problems. Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's lifespan, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine. Put simply: Spayed and neutered rabbits make better pets.

Despite all the benefits, however, anesthesia is a little trickier with rabbits than with dogs and cats. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia, listening for the magic word: isoflurane, which is preferred for use with rabbits. The final safety precaution is yours. Follow your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

Bless your kind heart in giving an unwanted rabbit a second chance. Too many parents dump pets when the child for whom they were purchased loses interest. The message this sends to children -- living things are disposable -- is perfectly dreadful.

Q: I disagree with your enthusiasm for collars. I've owned cats for years, and I never keep collars on them. It's too dangerous! Collars can get caught on things and kill a pet. Will you share that information? -- D.W., Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: Some people resist cat collars because they're afraid their roaming pet will get the collar caught and become trapped. That's why cat collars are equipped with elastic, so the cat can slip out of them when necessary. The reason why collars are so very important is because of ID. If your pet doesn't have an ID tag, the chances of him getting home if he's lost drop dramatically. If your cat is indoors full time and you're absolutely sure he'll never get out to wander, you don't need to put a collar on him. Otherwise, you do.

Years ago, a shelter director told me that she had never, ever pulled a cat skeleton out of a tree after the animal had been caught there by a collar, but every day she saw animals put down because their owners couldn't be found. It's all a matter of comparing risk.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It's a New Year's tradition around my home, one that has outlived a handful of pets, but it still works to ensure the safety of the animals who share their lives with me now.

Yes, dear readers, it's time for the annual New Year's neck check. I started pushing for this tradition more than a decade ago, and I still believe it's as important as ever. Like checking your smoke detector batteries twice a year when the time changes, checking your pet's collar and tags annually will ensure that an important safety measure is in place should you and your pet ever need it.

Why New Year's? Because it's easy to remember, and besides, what else are you going to do besides eat, drink and watch football?

Start your neck check with a look at your pet's collar first. A properly fitted collar is important, but so too is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close but not too snug. Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" collar. These are for training and walking only, and they pose a life-threatening hazard if left on an unsupervised dog. Cats should be wearing a collar with an elastic section that will allow your pet to wriggle free if he gets caught on something.

If you do have the right kind of collar on your pet, take a minute to look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

If the collar passes muster, it's time to look at the tags. A license is great, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- yours and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, make a note to order a new tag right away.

My pets also carry tags from a company I really like, 1-800-HELP4PETS. The service, which costs $25 per year, is available 24 hours a day to help reunite you with a lost pet. It can also authorize veterinary care if your lost pet is injured and you cannot be immediately located. (More information is available by calling the 1-800 number, or by visiting www.help4pets.com on the Web.)

Don't delay in fixing any problems you find with your pet's neck check. Problems with collars and tags are easy to fix -- and collars and tags are the cheapest insurance you can buy against loss or accidents.

A final note: A microchip is another form of identification well worth considering. The tiny transponder, about the size of a grain of rice, is inserted by a veterinarian over the shoulder blades of dogs and cats, or in the breast of birds, and serves as a permanent identification that cannot be slipped off or removed.

If you have a microchip implanted in your pet, it's not possible to check for the chip as part of your New Year's neck check. But do make a mental note to ask your veterinarian to scan for it the next time your pet visits. Most veterinarians have hand-held devices that can detect the presence of a chip, and can determine if it has stayed put in a spot where it can be found by shelter workers, should your pet ever stray.

Remember, though, that a microchip doesn't take the place of ID tags. They complement each other, and even if your pet is chipped, he should still wear tags.

PETS ON THE WEB

Is it too soon to start planning your summer vacation? Never! If you want to go someplace where you won't have to leave your pets behind, you'll want to check out a couple of Web sites to help you plan a pet-friendly trip.

Both the Travel Pets (www.travelpets.com) and Pets Welcome (www.petswelcome.com) sites offer advice on going here and there safely with your pet, as well as listings of pet-friendly lodgings worldwide. Whether you're looking to head to a posh city hotel, beach resort or rustic mountain campground, you'll find the information you need to take along your pet.

THE SCOOP

A good way to evaluate the health of a bird is to pay attention to what your pet leaves at the bottom of the cage. Birds produce feces with three components: The stool, which is semisolid and dark in color; the urates, which are a loose, whitish solid; and urine, which is nearly a clear liquid. Get to know how your bird's wastes look normally, as well as the usual variations -- some foods can change the color of the stools, or increase the amount of urine. Once you know what's typical for your bird, you can spot abnormalities that might be the early indication of a serious illness developing.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We lost two of our three cats to antifreeze poisoning. Our car was leaking fluid onto the driveway, and we didn't realize the cats had gotten into the stuff until they were sick. The veterinarian did what she could, but in the end, the youngest one made it, but the older two did not. We are left with broken hearts and a huge veterinary bill.

Do you think we can sue the antifreeze company for the veterinary bills? We didn't know that antifreeze was poisonous, or we would have been more careful. How can they be allowed to put a product like this on the market? -- D.C., via e-mail

A: I'm so sorry for your loss. As you've found out the hard way, it doesn't take much antifreeze to kill a cat. An animal can get a deadly dose just by walking through a puddle and licking his paws clean afterward.

I'm not an attorney, so I certainly can't speak as to what grounds you have for bringing a suit against the manufacturer of the antifreeze that was in your car. But I do know that we often must use products that are dangerous and that sometimes pets -- or people -- are accidentally harmed as a result. The responsibility largely falls to us to use dangerous products in as safe a manner as possible.

There is a less dangerous antifreeze on the market, made with propylene glycol instead of the ethylene glycol in the traditional product. You can check for it at your auto-supply store. But even if you buy the safer product, there's no guarantee your neighbors will, leaving open the possibility that your pet might get poisoned next door.

Really, the best you can do is to educate yourself as to the dangers your family (two-legged and four-legged both) faces, and then do what you can to prevent disaster. The world is a dangerous place, after all, and all the lawsuits in the world won't change that.

The best strategy would be to keep your cats indoors and your dogs leashed when off your property. And be sure in the area you can control -- your own driveway and garage -- you clean any coolant spills promptly.

Q: Would you please settle an argument I'm having with my husband? Our kids have a pair of pet rabbits. I say it's fine to put their waste into the compost pile. My husband says I shouldn't. Who's right? -- O.W., via e-mail

A: You are. It's perfectly OK to add the rabbit droppings to your compost pile. If you go to a garden center, you'll pay good money for the composted waste of herbivores. The decomposed droppings of these nonmeat-eating animals safely add nutrients to the soil.

What about dogs and cats? The droppings of carnivores carry disease and parasites that can be transmitted to humans, so these wastes should not be put into the compost pile.

You can decompose the waste of dogs and cats using contraptions designed for that purpose, but the process is for your convenience and for reducing the amount of waste bound for the landfill -- not to produce fertilizer for your garden.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600