Sometimes a life can hinge on what happens in a minute. Or in eight of them, as was the case with the Lab-mix puppy I found myself cuddling at an emergency animal hospital in the middle of a cold winter night.

She was 13 weeks old, just another throwaway pup. She got the first lucky break of her life a day earlier, when someone pitched her over a 6-foot fence into my brother's back yard. The puppy and I were waiting at the hospital for what I hoped would be her second lucky break, that a test for parvovirus would turn out negative.

I'd like to think that whoever tossed her over that fence did so in hopes that she'd find a home. But it's more likely that the kind of person who'd throw a puppy into a back yard with a big brindle dog did so hoping to see the youngster torn apart. Wrong yard for that: My brother's boxer thought a new playmate was a splendid idea. And my brother, after recovering from the surprise of having two dogs trot into his kitchen, treated the pup to what was likely the first good meal of her life.

And then, of course, he called me. She was a sweet pup, so I decided to find her a home. I'd fostered her less than 24 hours when she started showing the classic signs of parvo -- vomiting and diarrhea.

Driving to the animal hospital, I hardened my heart.

If it were parvo, I knew she'd be very sick. That she might not get better. And that treatment would cost hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars.

If it were parvo, I decided that I'd tell the veterinarian to put her to sleep. Because it didn't make sense to pull out the stops for a homeless pup, no matter how sweet her face, how sleek her honey-gold fur, how easygoing her disposition.

She wasn't my responsibility, I told myself. I wasn't the one who allowed her to be born, nor was I the one who threw her away. I didn't expose her to parvo by letting her roam. And yet, her life was in my hands.

I could feel my resolve weakening. The test would take eight minutes; if it were positive, I'd have to decide.

"If it's not parvo, then it's probably something she ate," said the veterinarian. "We'll give her fluids, some antibiotics and send her home. She'll probably be fine."

"But if it is parvo ... "

At this, her voice tailed off. Although the doctor was young, she'd been practicing long enough to know that you can't save them all. And that sometimes the ones you might be able to save you never get a chance to.

She sighed, smiled sadly, and left us alone in the exam room to wait. The puppy snuggled against me and sought out my eyes with her own.

"Don't look at my like that," I told her. "It's not my fault. I'm really, really sorry." I promised her that I'd stay with her to the end, that it wouldn't hurt, that it was really for the best. The puppy kept looking, kept pleading, until by the time those eight minutes were up I'd changed my mind and decided that if she wanted to fight, I'd let her.

"OK, you win." I said. "Don't die. Get better, and I'll find you a good home."

I knew the answer as soon as the door opened from the look on the young doctor's face. But I wanted to hear the words anyway.

"It's not parvo," said the doctor, as the puppy's tail started to wag. As if she heard. As if she knew. As if she understood what it meant.

I understood what it meant: The lucky break was as much mine as the puppy's. The only decisions that remained for me now were which credit card to use for the bill and which home to choose for the puppy.

Eight minutes. It seemed like a lifetime, because that's exactly what it was.

PETS ON THE WEB

Last year I was living in one of the best birding areas in the country, a rural part of the Florida panhandle where some of the rarest birds in the world are regular visitors. I spent my months there with binoculars and a field guide never far from my grasp, and I saw everything from a bald eagle (only once) to osprey, terns and bluebirds. If you have an interest in birding, you might want help with the Audubon Society's annual Christmas Bird Count, which runs from Dec. 14 to Jan. 5. You don't have to be an expert birder to participate in the count. Visit the Society's bird count page (www.audubon.org/bird/cbc) for more information.

THE SCOOP

A small amount of wax in your cat's ears is perfectly normal and can easily be cleaned with mineral oil on a cotton ball or swab. But if your pet's ears appear filthy, he probably has ear mites -- tiny pests that feed on the lining of the ear canal.

See your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment. Be sure to follow directions in treating the mites. You need to apply medication as directed, as often as recommended, and for as long as told to. Cut no corners: You need to keep up the regimen even after you think the mites are gone to prevent a reinfestation.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have an adorable 6-month-old indoor kitten. He is a joy to have around, but he does come with the "kitty challenges." How can we get him to stop scratching the corners of the couch and our bed? He does have a scratching post, and we already squirt him with a spray bottle. We've also tried the spray-on smelly stuff from the pet store that was supposed to stop him, but all it did was make the house smell like a barn. -- W.B., via e-mail

A: Scratching isn't just about scratching -- it's also about stretching, keeping claws in good trim and marking territory. Cats find the behavior extremely satisfying for these reasons.

To get your cat to change his choice of where to scratch, start by making sure the post has a good feel underpaw, and is well-placed and stable.

The covering on the post should be something a cat can really get his claws into, such a sisal rope, or carpet with large loops and a loose weave. Don't hide it in the corner of a basement or garage. Put it in a location where the cat can use it and still feel that he's part of the family. Finally, make sure the post is sturdy enough so that your pet can't pull it over on himself.

Make the post more enticing by rubbing fresh catnip on the covering (if your cat likes the herb). And play games with your pet around or on the post to strengthen the positive association.

You can make the couch and bed unwelcoming through the use of double-sided tape. Cats hate putting their paws on sticky substances. You can purchase double-sided strips ready-made under the brand name "Sticky Paws," or buy double-sided tape at a home-supply store.

Use a small test strip in an area that doesn't show to make sure your fabric won't be damaged. When in doubt, apply the tape to piece of cardboard and lean that against the corner of the couch and bed.

It also helps to blunt the tips of your kitten's claws on a monthly basis, using either nail-trimmers made for humans or those designed for pets.

Q: I breed Labrador retrievers, and I compete with my dogs in many sports, including obedience, agility and field tests. I've shown many of my dogs to their championships as well. This is a small thing, I know, but it drives me crazy. Would you please tell people that there's no such thing as a "golden Labrador"? Labradors come in three colors: black, yellow and chocolate. -- T.N., via e-mail

A: Happy to spread the word. Folks, unless you're talking about a dog who's a light-colored cross between a golden retriever and a Labrador retriever, the phrase "golden Lab" is incorrect. No matter how golden the coat, a light-colored Labrador is always called a yellow Lab. The yellow can range in hue from fox-red to light cream, according to the American Kennel Club.

Not that any Labrador born would ever care what you call him, as long as you call him regularly for dinner.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The season's first winter storm slammed through a couple of days after Thanksgiving, leaving me with a pair of dogs who didn't understand why I couldn't just throw something on and take them to the dog park.

While my oldest dog, the ancient Andy, now closing in on 16, is content with regular meals and a warm, soft bed these days, the two retrievers see no reason why gale-force winds and driving rain should get in the way of a good time. After all, these are the dogs who last winter, when we lived in a North Florida beach house, went swimming on mornings so cold that icicles formed on their fur as they waited on the deck for me to rinse off the saltwater.

But we're back home now, in a setting that is too urban for dogs to exercise themselves. Much to their daily disappointment, I'm sure, we no longer have the Gulf of Mexico for a front yard. If they're going to exercise, I have to be involved. In passable weather, we walk, bike-ride and visit the dog park. In bad weather, we stay home. I'm a weather wimp, you see.

How fortunate for my furry housemates that I learned long ago that mental exercise can be satisfying to bored, bounce-off-the-wall pups on days when an outing isn't possible. Most breeds were developed to work, and few dogs today are asked to. Giving them a job to do is good for them, and they like it.

Years ago, I taught the big retriever, Benjamin, to balance a dog biscuit on his nose, then flip it into the air and catch it on command. Now it's a heck of a parlor trick, performed with plenty of panache. He also knows to bark on request, shake hands and -- I love this one -- find every one of his plush toys and put them in the washing machine.

Every trick, whether useful or just plain fun, was born on a gloomy winter afternoon. Andy used to delight in jumping tricks -- through hoops or over other dogs -- until age got the best of him. We then switched to search games, where I'd hide a toy and ask him to find it. He would play for hours if you let him, with such skill that I wondered if he shouldn't have been lent to the police for bomb or drug detection. Nowadays, we play with the toy barely hidden, only once or twice before he tires. But he still lights up with pride at his accomplishment when he finds the toy.

This winter we're working on complicated retrieves where the two retrievers are put on "stay" and then only one dog is sent out and must find the right object by name -- Kong, frog, football and so on. Heather, the smart one, is better at recognizing toys by name, but she has no patience when it's her turn to play, wriggling and whining when Ben is sent for the toy.

Such games are to dogs what the daily crossword puzzle or the latest computer game is to us. Dogs have to think, they have to learn, and when they get it right, their sense of accomplishment and joy is palpable and contagious. And as pleasurable as these games are, with plenty of praise for a job done right, they also reinforce a dog's place in the pack structure we humans call "family."

Start with a simple game and build on it. If your dog likes to retrieve, begin with simple in-sight fetching and then slowly make things harder. Add a "stay." Then "hide" the toy in an easy-to-find spot, making the game a little trickier as your pet learns you want him to "find," instead of merely "fetch."

Just don't let them sit around doing nothing. You'll all enjoy a rainy day better if you find something useful to do.

PETS ON THE WEB

Every year at this time it's my pleasure to steer people to the Doggie Carols Web site (www.ddc.com/waggers/carols_tennis_balls.html). New carols haven't been added in a couple of years, but the old favorites are still highly amusing, a canine twist on Christmas classics.

The site offers new lyrics for traditional music, such as "Tennis Balls" instead of "Silver Bells." In that selection, you'll find these lyrics: "Tennis balls/Tennis balls/Perfection, round and inviting/Roll and play/All the day/Please, Santa, toss some my way."

Silly? You bet. But laughter is a great way to relieve the stress of the season.

THE SCOOP

Birds need exercise, too! From the smallest budgie to the largest macaw, parrots are highly intelligent, active birds who need to stay mentally and physically active to stay healthy. Anything a parrot can dig into, from a toy to a challenging food that requires effort to eat, is good. One toy in particular is good for burning the calories consumed by a sedentary bird: the coiled-rope perch. This springy invention requires effort to stay on, and some birds become so enamored of it that they'll spend hours bouncing up and down.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have had both cats and dogs over the past 20 years, and I've always had them spayed and neutered. But now there is an adolescent male -- my son -- in the house, and he doesn't want our dog to be neutered.

Other than helping with the problem of pet overpopulation and minimizing the risk of our dog escaping the yard to elope with some wandering female in heat, what other reasons are there for neutering? I feel like I ought to have more answers for my son than I hear myself giving, even though I do plan to have the dog neutered soon. -- L.H., via e-mail

A: Your son's not alone in his horror at the prospect of having the dog neutered. Many men who are well beyond their adolescence -- at least in terms of years -- react the same way. I've never understood the problem, and chances are that since I'm not a man I never will. I have never known a woman to become so intensely concerned with the reproductive organs of the family dog, so maybe it is solely a guy thing.

The reasons you've already offered are good ones in favor of the surgery, but there are certainly more. Neutering (in both males and females) reduces the risks of some cancers. In males, neutering offers many behavioral benefits, including reducing problems with marking territory and with some aggressive behavior. Even the mildest-mannered of unneutered dogs sometimes have problems with fighting, because some intact males will go out of their way to pick fights with other intact males. Neutering will also reduce problems with sex-related behaviors such as "humping."

Dogs don't miss what they don't have. Your dog will not spend his life lamenting his lost "manhood." On the contrary, he'll live a healthier life and likely a happier one, too, since his family will appreciate the more easygoing nature of a neutered pet.

Q: We have three cats, and one of them has stopped using the litter box (maybe more than one). How can we tell which cat is the problem? -- L.M., via e-mail

A. In a multicat household, it can be very difficult to track down the culprit when someone stops using the litter box.

You can try to isolate the cat with problems by mixing food coloring -- blue or green -- with canned food and offering it to one cat at a time. You'll be able to tell which feces came from the "marked" cat because the food coloring will pass right through.

Urine is a little harder to figure out, but your veterinarian should be able to help, or refer you to a veterinary behaviorist who can. What you'll end up with is fluorescent dye and a black light. The dye will show up in the urine, and the black light will reveal it.

Once you know who's causing the problem, schedule a thorough veterinary checkup for the problem cat, including diagnostic tests as recommended. Problems such as urinary-tract infections and diabetes can prompt cats to give up on litter boxes.

If there's not a health problem, you may have a territorial problem. Some cats don't like to share boxes. A good rule of thumb: one box for each cat, plus one more. And put them in different parts of the house, not next to one another in a single area. Make sure they're arranged so a cat doesn't feel he'll be ambushed while using the box -- good visibility and clear escape routes are important to some cats. And remember, scoop constantly. No one likes a dirty bathroom.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Over the last couple of years, my youngest dog has spent a fair amount of her free time digging a hole in my yard. Hidden in the shadow of an old rose bush, the opening is so small that Heather has to wriggle her shoulders to clear it, but below is a chamber into which she can disappear entirely, turn around and come out nose-first. Curious, I once slid a broom handle into the thing and never could touch the back of it.

That, my friends, is a mighty big hole.

It has always been true that whatever puny efforts I make at landscaping are limited to my front yard; the back is solely for the use of the dogs. I know my casual attitude toward digging is hardly universal, however, and not a week goes by when someone doesn't write asking for a way to stop a dog from digging.

I've known many punishment-based "cures" for digging, and I don't recommend any of them. As with any behavior, you have to understand what's at the root of the problem before you can come up with a fair approach to minimizing the damage.

Like many behaviors people find troubling, digging is natural for dogs, with any number of triggers driving the activity. Among them:

-- Wanderlust. Some dogs, especially unneutered males, have a strong desire to dig their way out of the yard, especially when the breeze carries the enticing scent of a female in heat.

-- Prey drive. Subterranean wildlife is irresistible to some dogs, especially terriers or terrier mixes. These breeds were developed to dig vermin from their lairs, and they still do so with much enthusiasm.

-- Need for shelter. A well-dug den can keep a dog cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Although any breed or mix can show an interest in making a den, the behavior is more common in such breeds as huskies and malamutes.

-- Recreation. Digging is just plain fun. Just ask Heather.

-- Excess energy and boredom. This combination is either directly responsible or a contributing factor in most canine behavior problems. The trick to having a nice yard and a happy dog is to do what you can to eliminate the triggers for digging, and then take your pet's needs into account when planning your landscaping.

Neutering can greatly reduce the desire to wander, so if your dog's a roaming Romeo, a trip to the veterinarian should be the first item on your list. If wildlife's a problem, contact your local agricultural extension for tips on how to get the pests to give your yard a skip. And make sure your pet has the shelter he needs to stay comfortable no matter the weather.

Often the lack of exercise and sheer boredom are the biggest contributors to this behavior problem -- and any other. If you make it impossible for your dog to dig -- say by cooping him up in a concrete-floored kennel run -- he may switch to another unwanted behavior such as nonstop barking or self-mutilation.

Every dog needs an exercise program, with the emphasis on heart-thumping aerobic interludes such as a daily run or a game of fetch. If you keep your pet well-exercised, he'll be less likely to indulge in destructive behaviors. A tired dog is always good dog!

Finally, design your yard for compromise. Make a less-visible part of the yard a dog-friendly free-dig zone, and limit your pet to that area when you can't be there to supervise. Provide safe chew toys to keep him occupied, such as peanut butter-stuffed Kongs. Discourage digging in off-limit areas by filling in holes and covering them with chicken wire and large rocks.

If you address the underlying issues that cause digging and then allow your dog the opportunity to do some of what comes naturally in an area that's acceptable to you both, you'll find that it's indeed possible to have a yard you can be proud to show off.

Someday, maybe I'll be bitten by the landscaping bug. If that happens, I've promised Heather that we'll incorporate her hole into the design. By that time, it should be large enough to qualify as a tourist attraction.

PETS ON THE WEB

You don't have to live in a rural area to come in contact with a wild animal that needs help. Urban wildlife includes everything from birds to coyotes, and it's sometimes difficult to figure out when to get help and when to let nature take its course.

The Wildlife Rehabilitation Information Directory (www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/#aa) goes a long way to answering those questions and others. This wonderful Web site offers information on when to help wildlife (and how), as well as how to find a group to help with an animal that needs rehabilitation. This is one site to bookmark for future reference!

THE SCOOP

Those of us who support spaying and neutering pets (which should be everyone reading this column!) will soon be able to spread the word through stamps. Starting in September 2002, the United States Postal Service will offer a pair of stamps promoting spaying and neutering. Each will feature the image of a pet adopted from a shelter. The stamps are the result of a long lobbying campaign by a wide range of animal advocacy groups that sometimes find it difficult to agree on the best way to fight pet overpopulation. On this message, they all could agree.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A few months ago we added a kitten to a household that already includes two adult cats and an elderly Lab. We are not inexperienced pet owners. My husband and I both grew up with animals, and we've had many pets during our 32-year marriage.

But this kitten, cute as she is, is driving us crazy. She never shuts up! She is always "talking." It was cute once, but now it's not so cute. We're not getting rid of her, but we'd sure like to hear a little less from her. Any ideas? -- K.T., via e-mail

A: Some cats are chattier than others. Indeed, "talkativeness" is an adored trait in the Siamese and other so-called Oriental breeds. If you have a noisy Siamese or Siamese mix, to a certain extent you're just going to have to live with the problem.

Some measure of vocalization is actually trained into cats by humans. If you hop up and accommodate her every time your kitten demands to be fed, then you've taught her that the squeaky wheel gets the grease, even in the middle of the night or at the crack of dawn. If you think your cat's chatty behavior is something you've taught her -- as opposed to something she was born with -- then you can try some retraining.

Start by resolving not to give in to her demands. If you ignore her yowling for a while and then give in, you've taught her that all she needs to do to get her way is to make more noise, not less. Correct her with a shot of water from a squirt bottle and then go about your business. She'll gets the point soon enough that her demanding gets her nowhere.

Be aware, though, that this kitten is likely chattier than the norm. You can minimize some of her demanding behavior through retraining her, but you'll also have to do some retraining of yourself to learn to appreciate (or at least tolerate) her noise. You've made it through 32 years of marriage, which always involves a certain amount of acceptance and compromise. Use these skills with your cat, and you'll be fine.

Q: Our dog is almost impossible to walk, and my husband has practically dislocated his shoulder trying. There's no way the kids can walk him, and he's supposed to be their dog. When we took Clyde to the vet recently, she recommended we try a head halter. I've seen them a couple of times, but I thought they were muzzles. Do you recommend them? -- R.P., via e-mail

A: Yes, I do. I've seen head halters such as the Gentle Leader turn an out-of-control dog into a pet even a child can walk. Head halters work on a simple idea: Where the head goes, the body will follow. That premise has been essential in controlling horses for centuries -- because it works.

Head halters further work with a dog's own instincts. Canine mothers teach their babies to mind by putting pressure on the back of their necks and around their muzzles -- the same areas touched by head halters.

It's best not to just slap a halter on and set out. Find a trainer in your area who uses them, and enroll in a group class. (I'm guessing Clyde has obedience problems besides walking on a leash.) The trainer will help you fit a head halter properly and will show you how to teach your dog to walk with one on.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600