Over the last couple of years, my youngest dog has spent a fair amount of her free time digging a hole in my yard. Hidden in the shadow of an old rose bush, the opening is so small that Heather has to wriggle her shoulders to clear it, but below is a chamber into which she can disappear entirely, turn around and come out nose-first. Curious, I once slid a broom handle into the thing and never could touch the back of it.

That, my friends, is a mighty big hole.

It has always been true that whatever puny efforts I make at landscaping are limited to my front yard; the back is solely for the use of the dogs. I know my casual attitude toward digging is hardly universal, however, and not a week goes by when someone doesn't write asking for a way to stop a dog from digging.

I've known many punishment-based "cures" for digging, and I don't recommend any of them. As with any behavior, you have to understand what's at the root of the problem before you can come up with a fair approach to minimizing the damage.

Like many behaviors people find troubling, digging is natural for dogs, with any number of triggers driving the activity. Among them:

-- Wanderlust. Some dogs, especially unneutered males, have a strong desire to dig their way out of the yard, especially when the breeze carries the enticing scent of a female in heat.

-- Prey drive. Subterranean wildlife is irresistible to some dogs, especially terriers or terrier mixes. These breeds were developed to dig vermin from their lairs, and they still do so with much enthusiasm.

-- Need for shelter. A well-dug den can keep a dog cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Although any breed or mix can show an interest in making a den, the behavior is more common in such breeds as huskies and malamutes.

-- Recreation. Digging is just plain fun. Just ask Heather.

-- Excess energy and boredom. This combination is either directly responsible or a contributing factor in most canine behavior problems. The trick to having a nice yard and a happy dog is to do what you can to eliminate the triggers for digging, and then take your pet's needs into account when planning your landscaping.

Neutering can greatly reduce the desire to wander, so if your dog's a roaming Romeo, a trip to the veterinarian should be the first item on your list. If wildlife's a problem, contact your local agricultural extension for tips on how to get the pests to give your yard a skip. And make sure your pet has the shelter he needs to stay comfortable no matter the weather.

Often the lack of exercise and sheer boredom are the biggest contributors to this behavior problem -- and any other. If you make it impossible for your dog to dig -- say by cooping him up in a concrete-floored kennel run -- he may switch to another unwanted behavior such as nonstop barking or self-mutilation.

Every dog needs an exercise program, with the emphasis on heart-thumping aerobic interludes such as a daily run or a game of fetch. If you keep your pet well-exercised, he'll be less likely to indulge in destructive behaviors. A tired dog is always good dog!

Finally, design your yard for compromise. Make a less-visible part of the yard a dog-friendly free-dig zone, and limit your pet to that area when you can't be there to supervise. Provide safe chew toys to keep him occupied, such as peanut butter-stuffed Kongs. Discourage digging in off-limit areas by filling in holes and covering them with chicken wire and large rocks.

If you address the underlying issues that cause digging and then allow your dog the opportunity to do some of what comes naturally in an area that's acceptable to you both, you'll find that it's indeed possible to have a yard you can be proud to show off.

Someday, maybe I'll be bitten by the landscaping bug. If that happens, I've promised Heather that we'll incorporate her hole into the design. By that time, it should be large enough to qualify as a tourist attraction.

PETS ON THE WEB

You don't have to live in a rural area to come in contact with a wild animal that needs help. Urban wildlife includes everything from birds to coyotes, and it's sometimes difficult to figure out when to get help and when to let nature take its course.

The Wildlife Rehabilitation Information Directory (www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/#aa) goes a long way to answering those questions and others. This wonderful Web site offers information on when to help wildlife (and how), as well as how to find a group to help with an animal that needs rehabilitation. This is one site to bookmark for future reference!

THE SCOOP

Those of us who support spaying and neutering pets (which should be everyone reading this column!) will soon be able to spread the word through stamps. Starting in September 2002, the United States Postal Service will offer a pair of stamps promoting spaying and neutering. Each will feature the image of a pet adopted from a shelter. The stamps are the result of a long lobbying campaign by a wide range of animal advocacy groups that sometimes find it difficult to agree on the best way to fight pet overpopulation. On this message, they all could agree.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A few months ago we added a kitten to a household that already includes two adult cats and an elderly Lab. We are not inexperienced pet owners. My husband and I both grew up with animals, and we've had many pets during our 32-year marriage.

But this kitten, cute as she is, is driving us crazy. She never shuts up! She is always "talking." It was cute once, but now it's not so cute. We're not getting rid of her, but we'd sure like to hear a little less from her. Any ideas? -- K.T., via e-mail

A: Some cats are chattier than others. Indeed, "talkativeness" is an adored trait in the Siamese and other so-called Oriental breeds. If you have a noisy Siamese or Siamese mix, to a certain extent you're just going to have to live with the problem.

Some measure of vocalization is actually trained into cats by humans. If you hop up and accommodate her every time your kitten demands to be fed, then you've taught her that the squeaky wheel gets the grease, even in the middle of the night or at the crack of dawn. If you think your cat's chatty behavior is something you've taught her -- as opposed to something she was born with -- then you can try some retraining.

Start by resolving not to give in to her demands. If you ignore her yowling for a while and then give in, you've taught her that all she needs to do to get her way is to make more noise, not less. Correct her with a shot of water from a squirt bottle and then go about your business. She'll gets the point soon enough that her demanding gets her nowhere.

Be aware, though, that this kitten is likely chattier than the norm. You can minimize some of her demanding behavior through retraining her, but you'll also have to do some retraining of yourself to learn to appreciate (or at least tolerate) her noise. You've made it through 32 years of marriage, which always involves a certain amount of acceptance and compromise. Use these skills with your cat, and you'll be fine.

Q: Our dog is almost impossible to walk, and my husband has practically dislocated his shoulder trying. There's no way the kids can walk him, and he's supposed to be their dog. When we took Clyde to the vet recently, she recommended we try a head halter. I've seen them a couple of times, but I thought they were muzzles. Do you recommend them? -- R.P., via e-mail

A: Yes, I do. I've seen head halters such as the Gentle Leader turn an out-of-control dog into a pet even a child can walk. Head halters work on a simple idea: Where the head goes, the body will follow. That premise has been essential in controlling horses for centuries -- because it works.

Head halters further work with a dog's own instincts. Canine mothers teach their babies to mind by putting pressure on the back of their necks and around their muzzles -- the same areas touched by head halters.

It's best not to just slap a halter on and set out. Find a trainer in your area who uses them, and enroll in a group class. (I'm guessing Clyde has obedience problems besides walking on a leash.) The trainer will help you fit a head halter properly and will show you how to teach your dog to walk with one on.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As pet lovers, we always need to keep in mind one of the basic facts of life: Not everyone loves animals the way we do. And even those who do love animals can find the antics of other people's pets a little hard to bear at times.

If I didn't know this already, I was reminded recently by a trio of letters from people complaining about other people's pets: screaming parrots in an outdoor aviary, a tomcat who terrorizes the neighborhood's other felines, and a dog let out every morning to leave "gifts" on other people's lawns.

These pets have two things in common. First, they're doing what is only natural to them. Second, they have owners who aren't thinking about their neighbors. Pet owners who allow their pets to be nuisances are more than rude: They're also a threat to those of us who always want to have animals in our lives. Irresponsible pet owners provide plenty of ammunition to those who would be happy to see animals banned -- or at least highly restricted.

Responsible pet ownership is the best antidote for anti-pet sentiments. The good news is that it doesn't take a lot of effort to keep reasonable people happy. Here are the rules we pet lovers need to live by to keep things neighborly.

-- Keep 'em quiet. Barking dog or screaming parrots, the answer is the same: Keep your pets inside, especially at night and on weekend mornings. Pet lovers have a tendency to become selectively deaf, tuning out the racket of their own pets. Some people seem able to sleep through the barking of their own dogs. Although you may be able to manage such a trick, your neighbors shouldn't have to.

-- Keep 'em under control. The only way to accomplish this with cats is to keep them inside. The bonus for you: Your cat will live a longer, healthier life. Outdoor cats fight noisily for mates and territory (neutering helps, but not completely), pick up and spread deadly feline diseases, and are exposed to hazards such as cars, coyotes and cat-hating neighbors with traps.

As for dogs, keep them fenced or on a leash and off other people's property -- always. In public areas where it's OK for a game of fetch, train your dog to be under your voice control, or put him on a long lead instead. Never let him bother other people or pets.

-- Keep 'em clean. Pick up after your dog, whether or not it's required by local ordinance. I never understand why people who wouldn't think of tossing an empty cup on a neighbor's lawn think nothing of leaving something much more vile.

Don't step out of your house with your dog unless you have plastic bags in your pocket for cleanups. Pickup is easy. Put the bag over your hand like a mitten, pick up the poop and turn the bag inside-out with the mess inside. Pop the sealed packet in the nearest garbage can, and you're done.

The only way to keep your cat's mess out of your neighbor's flowerbeds is to keep him inside.

Sure, there are people won't be happy whatever you do. I have one fellow in my neighborhood who screams at me to keep my leashed dog off his lawn, even though we've never once set foot on it. Maybe he's a crank, or maybe he's sick of picking up after other people's pets. It doesn't matter. I just nod politely and show by example that I'm the kind of pet lover he should like having in the neighborhood. In time, maybe he'll lighten up.

Make the effort to be a responsible pet owner. Keeping your neighbors happy is the right thing to do, and it's the best way to protect your own interest in being able to spend your life with the animals you love.

PETS ON THE WEB

People who share their lives with turtles and tortoises know that cold weather means hibernation for these pets. This is a good time of year to check in on Felice's World of Turtles Web site (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/felicerood) to make sure cold-weather care is proper for the pet's species and health status.

Felice Rood is a self-taught expert on these pets, and she keeps more than 100 of them at her Sacramento, Calif., home. Her Web site is full of care advice and entertaining stories of her own turtles and tortoises.

THE SCOOP

Keeping cats indoors keeps them out of harm's way, but it doesn't do much to keep their bodies exercised. If you have an indoor cat, set time aside for active games that will keep your kitty moving. Perfect for this purpose is getting your pet to chase a toy on a string, or using one of those commercial "fishing pole" cat toys.

Be sure you put string toys away when you're not there to supervise, though. Cats and kittens who end up eating string (or ribbon, dental floss or other similar material) can end up with an intestinal problem that may become life-threatening and may need to be surgically corrected.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a comfortable home, decorated very nicely. We have a small poodle, and one reason my girlfriend chose this breed was because poodles don't shed much hair.

My girlfriend's best friend, Deborah, has a well-groomed male golden retriever named Dakota. Deborah takes Dakota everywhere, including our home. Dakota is a nice dog, but he is big and hairy and likes to jump on furniture.

We really like Deborah (and, quite frankly, Dakota is nice, too). We don't want to hurt Deborah's feelings, but we don't want Dakota coming over -- he always leaves a mess!

How do we tell Deborah, without hurting her feelings, that she is welcome but the dog must stay out of the house? -- K.K., via e-mail

A: You have two options: Tell Deborah politely but firmly that you don't want her dog in your house, or invest in a case of lint brushes.

It's presumptuous of your friend to bring the dog without asking permission, especially since she must know how much you enjoy a clean and well-ordered home. If you go the "no Dakota" route, you might suggest an occasional meeting for all of you at a local dog park, especially since you like the dog when he's not on your furniture.

If you do decide to allow Dakota in your house, set down some ground rules. Suggest that instead of his jumping on the furniture, he stay on something washable, like an old bath mat. (Even I, crazed pet nut that I am, would never allow a dog of mine on the furniture in someone else's home, even though they sleep on the couches in my own.)

Assuming Dakota is bathed frequently enough so that smell isn't a problem, you should be able to throw the bath mat in the wash and whisk any stray golden hair up pretty quickly with a lint brush after a visit.

Do talk to Deborah right away. Problems like these can turn into petty resentments that eat away at the underpinnings of a friendship. Better you should have an open discussion of the problem and come to some sort of agreement right away than risk a friendship-ending blow-up down the line. If Dakota is like most golden retrievers, he'd hate to have any ill feelings on his account.

Q: Do dogs need sweaters in cold weather? -- S.P., via e-mail

A: Some dogs really are helped by sweaters. While those designed for cold weather, including such arctic breeds as malamutes and all-weather sheepdogs like collies, are just fine with the long, thick coats that come as standard equipment, other dogs can use a little help in wintertime.

Older shorthaired dogs fall into that category. Poor circulation and a lack of activity mean these guys are often cold, and a sweater would sure feel nice to ease the inevitable creakiness that comes from old age.

Dogs who are kept clipped, such as poodles, can also use some help in keeping warm. Left to its own devices, the poodle's curly coat would grow more than a foot long and provide ample insulation. But most people have their poodles clipped in a short, tidy style, leaving an insufficient coat to keep the animals toasty.

A final group of sweater-ready dogs: greyhounds. These lean, deep-chested dogs have minimal hair and a lot of exposed skin. They're always cold and appreciate the help a sweater offers in keeping warm. The same goes for their smaller relations, the whippet and Italian greyhound.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Thanksgiving is at hand, and the rest of the holiday season looms ahead. It's a busy time, but you need to make sure in the whirl of activities that you aren't ignoring any danger to your pets.

Every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets: feeding problems, foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. The bad news is that many pets will end up at the veterinarian's office this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these hazards.

-- Feeding problems. Your pet knows something special is cooking and he lets you know he's interested -- just look at those begging eyes! How can you resist slipping your pet a little something special: a big piece of turkey skin, a handful of chips with dip, some slices of salami? Resist, or your pet could be spending his holiday at the emergency veterinary clinic.

Foods too rich, too fatty or too spicy -- or anything your pet's not accustomed to -- can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, and that means a life-threatening illness.

What to avoid? Anything you wouldn't eat your pet should avoid, too. While a little bit of meat -- beef or poultry -- won't hurt and would be appreciated, steer clear of the fatty parts and the poultry skin, which also harbors fat.

No one's saying your pet shouldn't enjoy a special holiday meal, too, but limiting the kind and amount of special food will ensure that it is a treat -- not a trouble.

-- Foreign-body ingestion. Poultry bones may seem like the perfect gift for the pet who has everything, but do him a favor and save them for the soup. (Broth is a wonderful treat poured over your pet's regular food.) Even the largest turkey bones are prone to splintering, sending shards through the animal's intestines. Should one pierce through the lining, the result can be deadly peritonitis.

While cooked poultry bones are out, some beef bones can be safely substituted. Knuckle bones (for large dogs) and oxtails (for small ones) stand up to vigorous gnawing, providing your pet with hours of messy fun. Check at your meat counter for these inexpensive treats. Supervise your dog's chewing, and throw them out after a few hours of attention, or if they get broken into pieces that can be swallowed.

Some dogs prefer to eat bones rather than just chew on them, and if you've got one of those, keep an eye out to make sure the bones aren't causing internal problems. A pulverized bone can solidify like concrete in an animal's lower intestine, causing constipation and, occasionally, blockage that must be removed by a veterinarian.

The Christmas tree is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat climbing in its branches. Some dogs may even be inclined to break the rules of house-training on a freshly cut tree -- why else, they reason, would anyone bring a tree into the house? The best way to handle the situation is by making the tree off-limits to your pets unless you're there to watch and keep them out of trouble.

-- Poisonings. Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.) And before you share your holiday candy with your pet, be aware that chocolate is toxic to dogs, and may be deadly to the little dog who gets a good-sized piece. Again, the best cure is prevention. Keep all dangerous plants out of the reach of your pets, and keep the candy dish available to people only.

PETS ON THE WEB

Life-sized fiberglass cows are everywhere, painted in creative ways and raising money for charity coast to coast. Everywhere, that is, except Sun Valley, Idaho, where the folks took a hot idea and gave it a canine twist: The painted animals on display there are dogs -- Labradors, to be exact. The 35 slightly larger-than-life art pieces will be auctioned off Dec. 29, with proceeds going to charity. You don't have to be on hand to bid, or to look at these creative offerings: Just visit the Sun Valley Labs Web site at www.sunvalleylabs.net.

THE SCOOP

Some people have a much easier time deciding to spay their female pets than to neuter their males. While it's true that male pets won't surprise you by turning up pregnant, you'll find more than enough reasons to neuter your males, from both a health and temperament standpoint.

In dogs and cats both, neutering reduces the desire to roam, to fight and to engage in inappropriate marking behavior -- inside spraying for cats, leg-lifting for dogs. Health risks are also reduced. The tranquil, stay-at-home desire of neutered pets means you won't be paying to get them patched up after fights or accidents. And the overall risk of cancer is also diminished.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We're considering purchasing a leather couch. We have two indoor cats who have completely destroyed our fabric couch. We have given them a scratch post recently and although they use it, they still use the couch. We do not deter them from using the fabric couch.

In regard to the leather couch, we have heard that cats don't like leather and won't scratch it. But before we shell out the money for an expensive piece of furniture, I wanted your opinion. -- M.B., via e-mail

A: While it's true that cats prefer fabrics, especially those with a course woven texture, I wouldn't bet the farm on them not touching the new leather couch. Before you make such a huge investment, make a determined effort to convert your cats to using the scratching post.

First, make sure the post is adequate. Your cats need something they can stretch out on and really dig into, and that they can't pull over on themselves. For these reasons, I prefer to recommend a cat tree rather than a scratching post. Trees are taller, less likely to fall over, and offer room for two or more cats to scratch, play and nap. The cover should be a nubby, loose-weave fabric or a rough rope, like sisal.

Then make your current couch less attractive to scratching. Since you're tossing out that couch anyway, you don't need to be careful about saving what's left of the fabric. So cover all the areas on the furniture where your cats love to scratch with something they'll hate to touch --the sticky side of shelf-liner such as contact paper. Peel back the protective paper to reveal the sticky side, and secure the sheets sticky-side-out to the scratched areas with double-sided tape. Don't scrimp: Go for full coverage!

Next, move the scratching post beside your cats' most popular part of the couch. The idea is to give them a nearby alternative to putting their paws on their former scratching post -- your old couch. Play games with your cats on the post, such as encouraging them to chase a string toy, and give them food and treats for scratching in an appropriate place.

Be patient, because cats aren't keen on change. Once you notice your cats using the post (and not using the booby-trapped couch), you can very slowly -- like a couple feet a week -- move the post to a less prominent part of the room. (But don't move it so far away that your cats lose interest -- basements and garages are out!)

When you get your new couch, you can booby-trap it without marring the leather by mounting the sticky paper to sheets of cardboard and leaning them against the sides, corners and back of the new couch. No, you won't have to hide your lovely new furniture forever. The cardboard is to keep the cats from trying out the new couch, and it can come down once you observe that the cat tree is getting all the action.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600