Like most predators, cats have keen senses. Our lovingly spoiled and mostly domesticated former hunters get food served to them these days, often in fancy bowls. But that doesn't mean they've lost the senses their wild kin rely on to survive.

People and cats live in completely different worlds when it comes to our respective sensory perceptions. When you imagine things from your pet's point of view, you'll be able to better understand what makes your cat tick.

Consider the feline sense of smell, which is many times more powerful than a human's puny abilities in this area. Once you know that your cat is so much more sensitive than you are capable of being, you shouldn't be surprised that the litter box you think is "tolerable" may be offensive to your cat. Same goes for those perfumed litters: We may love them, but they can be strong to the point of overpowering to our keen-nosed felines.

Of course, the litter box is a relatively modern convenience, and the cat's sense of smell is good for much more than deciding when it's not clean enough. Smell also plays a role in the establishment of territory. Cats like things in their home range to smell like them, be they [be it?] people or furniture, and make them familiar by rubbing or scratching. The sense of smell is also important to free-roaming cats when it comes to finding prey, and in the determination of whether "found" food is safe enough to eat.

Dogs are scavengers who eat just about anything; cats are true predators. For them, fresh food, please, is their decided preference. Ever wonder why your cat turns up his nose at canned food that's been out a while? Simple: It doesn't smell right.

The sense of smell and taste are very closely connected in cats in part because the animals have a special anatomical feature called the vomeronasal organ, which allows them to process scent almost by tasting it. The organ is at the front of the roof of the mouth, and you can tell when your cat is using it: They open their mouths a crack and seem to be panting slightly. The facial expression that accompanies this behavior is so distinctive that it even has a name: the Flehmen response.

You can use your cat's well-developed sense of smell to your advantage if you're trying to entice a sick or just plain finicky cat to eat. If you warm your cat's wet food to just above room temperature before serving (about 85 degrees, or what we humans would call "lukewarm"), you'll make the odor more enticing, and so increase the appeal of the meal.

No matter what you do, though, you're not likely to get most cats interested in anything sweet. It's not for any lack in their sensory ability. Experts believe cats can identify foods that are bitter, salty, sweet or sour, although their appreciation of any of those qualities differs greatly from our own.

Not surprising, really, when you consider that were your cat to choose a gourmet meal, chances are he'd opt for a freshly killed mouse, hold the seasonings. Or maybe, knowing the skillful predator that lives in even the most pampered of pets, your cat would choose his meal live and easy to catch.

Dead or alive, a mouse is a meal preference no human would share. But then, our tongues also aren't adapted to clean meat off the bones of prey the way a cat's sandpaper-textured licker is. It all comes together so beautifully in the lithe, supple body of the perfect small predator.

When you think about how different cats and people are, it makes you wonder how we get along as well as we do. If nothing else, it should give you a sense of wonder at the superhuman senses of our most popular pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

I wish every chronic pet illness had a Web site as helpful and supportive as the one dedicated to feline diabetes (www.felinediabetes.com). Administered by a cat-loving physician, the site offers everything an owner needs (but maybe didn't think to ask the veterinarian) about caring for a pet with this disease. What is it like to live with such an animal? You'll find that here, along with tips on using syringes and monitoring your pet's sugar levels. A worthwhile read, without a doubt -- this is a site that's built with science but runs on love.

THE SCOOP

Winterizing your car or truck? Now may be the time to do it, but make sure when you're taking care of your vehicle that you're also watching out for your pet. The worry? Coolant made from ethylene glycol, a sweet-tasting liquid that can be lethal to your pet in dosages as small as a teaspoon, or less.

Safer alternatives exist to ethylene glycol, such as coolant made from propylene glycol. No matter what you use, though, be sure to clean up any spills promptly and thoroughly, and keep any stored product in leak-proof containers in a closed cupboard. If your pet laps even the smallest amount of coolant, see your veterinarian immediately. Your pet's only shot at survival is prompt treatment.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our puppy, a Lab mix from the shelter, is almost 4 months old now. She has a lot of energy, and sometimes we think we made a mistake in adopting her. But we know that puppies are a lot of work, and we're going to hang in there.

The biggest problem we have is that we can't get her to quit biting when she plays. It's really serious, to the extent that our 7-year-old son is afraid to play with the puppy now. Since we got the puppy for our son, this obviously is a bad situation. Can you help? -- N.N., via e-mail

A: Consider how human babies explore the world around them: They touch things, they grab things, and they taste what they grab. Puppies are much the same way, but since nature didn't equip them with fingers, they do their exploring with their mouths.

If you watch a litter of puppies play with each other, you might be surprised at how rough they can be. They nip -- hard. They grab hold of each other by the ears with needle-sharp teeth and pull. As puppies grow older, they learn from their littermates and their mother how to restrain those playful bites, which is one reason why it's so important to leave a puppy with his canine family until he's at least 7 weeks of age.

Some puppies don't get this critical early education, and some others are just slow learners. Others still are from breeds that are known to be "mouthier" than others -- retrievers are the classic example.

You can teach your puppy to keep his teeth to himself by attacking the problem from a couple of different directions. The first would be to redirect the behavior, giving your puppy a yummy toy and praising her for chewing on something that's not a family member.

Even as you're teaching the puppy what's OK to mouth, teach her how to leave family members unchewed by making the nipping unrewarding. Every time the puppy nips, cry "ouch" in a loud voice and immediately stop the play session. Turn away and ignore the puppy completely for a few minutes. Teach your son to do the same thing.

The message to get across: Play stops when she nips. If you're persistent and consistent, your puppy will get start getting the message soon and will learn to inhibit her bites.

If the behavior doesn't show any sign of ending, or if the biting seems more aggressive than playful, don't delay in asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or trainer.

Q: Would you put in a word for greyhounds? There's a real need for homes for these dogs after their racing careers are over. Greyhounds are sweet, gentle and affectionate. They may be retired athletes, but they are committed couch potatoes. About three months ago, I adopted a sweet, loving 2-year-old greyhound. I am amazed at how mellow she is. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: I don't mind at all making the case for greyhounds. They're generally clean, quiet and easygoing, and they seem to be aware of how lucky they are to be in a loving home.

In adopting one, you need to work with a reputable rescue organization that'll match the dog with your household. One of the biggest problems: Some greyhounds -- but not all -- don't mix safely with cats.

A good place to start researching is the Greyhound Project Web site (www.adopt-a-greyhound.org). You'll find lots of information pro and con, as well as links to regional rescue groups.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

This year, I'm giving you ample warning: If you're thinking of a Christmas puppy, just stop it, right now. No matter how much your children want one, the holidays are just about the worst time possible for most families to get a dog.

Christmas puppies are often a parent's headache by February, when the animals are still not house-trained, the kids are tired of the responsibilities involved in caring for a pet, and it's still too cold and dark outside for dog-training after work and school. Too often, these animals are a shelter's problem by summer, when their cuteness is long gone and their untrained boisterousness has lost any semblance of charm.

Despite the warnings of those in the know, every year parents give in to the begging of their children and pop for a puppy. It's too easy to imagine the Christmas puppy as the most precious Norman Rockwell snapshots ever, the puppy in a box, the puppy with a ribbon, the puppy giving such a perfect kiss to the oh-so-happy face of a child.

The attraction is understandable: Who doesn't love a puppy, and who wouldn't want to delight a child? But there are reasons why shelters, rescue groups and responsible breeders are uniform in their advice to think twice about a Christmas puppy.

Puppies are not toys. They are living, breathing (not to mention eating and urinating) beings who need a lot of attention. Who has time for a pup during the holidays, that stressful season of socializing and shopping? With a houseful of guests and a holiday dinner to prepare, who will make sure the puppy isn't being mauled by overly enthusiastic children and guests? Who has time to get house-training started right?

Let's back up a little and look at another Christmas reality. Many reputable breeders and shelters flat-out won't cooperate with your Christmas puppy lust. The sellers who have puppies for Christmas delivery are often motivated by money. Such breeders are not likely to cut into profits with pesky screening for genetic diseases, nor are they likely to care about the importance of socialization. These attitudes may cost you in the long run, both in dollars and in heartbreak.

But say you find the right puppy anyway. It's still a bad time to get a puppy. Doubt me? Try house-training a puppy when it's cold and stormy. Are you really so keen on the idea that you want to be out on winter nights, shivering while a puppy carefully contemplates whether he'd rather sniff or pee?

What about the rest of the training? The first few months of a dog's life are crucial: Bad habits are far easier to prevent than they are to break later. Will you really feel like training your pup when the holidays are over, the days are short and the kids are back in school? And how will you socialize your young dog?

Dogs who grow up unhouse-trained, unmannered and unsocialized too often never get a chance to grow up much at all. From summer to fall, I get dozens and dozens of letters from people who are tearing out their hair over their now-adolescent Christmas puppy. Some people work with the dogs, but many just dump them. Sad for the families; tragic for the dogs.

Dogs can be great for children, and children can be great with dogs. But Christmas is not the best time to launch such a promising relationship. Somebody has to be the grown-up here, and if you're the parent, it should be you. Wait until late spring or early summer to find the perfect pup and get your pet off to a great start.

PETS ON THE WEB

This is the time of year when poinsettias start showing up, and people start worrying about how safe they are around pets. The good news: You can enjoy this seasonal foliage without concern -- or without much concern, anyway. Poinsettias may cause minor stomach irritation if enough of the plant is ingested.

Curious about what's poisonous and what's not? Check out the directory of plants put out by the University of California, Davis (http://wellness.ucdavis.edu/safety_info/poison_prevention/take_care_with_plants/toxicity_of_plants.html). You'll find an exhaustive listing broken up alphabetically, and referenced not only by how dangerous a plant is, but also by the kind of damage it does.

THE SCOOP

Do you have a pet who likes to rummage in the bathroom wastebaskets or kitchen trash bin? This behavior is very rewarding to the pet who indulges in it, and so it's a very hard habit to break. You can try to booby-trap the cans by buying motion-detector noisemakers, or mats that give animal trespassers a small electric shock.

An easier, kinder and more reliable way to solve the problem is to simply remove the temptation. For some pets, a lidded trash bin will solve the problem. For others, you'll need to put the bin behind the door of a cabinet or pantry. Sometimes changing your behavior is the most efficient way to change your pet's behavior -- and the strategy is easier on you both.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I had dogs growing up, but haven't had one in my adult life -- just haven't had the time. My wife and I are in our 40s, and we have a young daughter, age 7. She really wants a dog. Our house has a very small yard, and we're not home much. Although I would prefer a big dog, my wife argues that a small dog would suit us better. Can you recommend a breed? -- T.S., via e-mail

A: If you're not home much, you might rethink getting a dog at all. Although many dogs -- if not most -- do fine with owners who are home after work and on weekends, if you're the kind of family that spends a lot of weekends gone and a lot of nights out, you'd be well-advised to wait to get a dog until your lifestyle suits one.

Dogs are pack animals, and your family is their pack. They don't do well spending most of their lives alone. Those animals who have such lives are miserable and prone to behavior problems such as digging, barking, chewing -- anything to fill those lonely hours.

If you're willing to commit to the time and energy it takes to properly care for a dog, then I can think of a handful of breeds that may fit the bill.

First on my list would probably be the pug. The breed is the largest of the toy dogs, weighing up to 20 pounds or so, and is a sturdy, easygoing companion with a face anyone's mother could love. Two breeds that are a little bigger but similar in looks and temperament: Boston terrier and French bulldog.

If you're looking for a small dog with a big-dog attitude, think Pembroke Welsh corgi. These short-legged dogs don't need much space, but like all herding breeds they like to stay busy and mentally engaged.

Another busybody with a big-dog attitude is the border terrier, considered by the experts to be one of the less pugnacious of the tough-minded terrier breeds.

Don't rule out a mixed breed, either. Although it's hard to predict the size of a shelter puppy -- one friend of mine adopted a puppy who was predicted to be the size of a fox terrier, but ended up at 85 pounds -- you can reliably find a properly sized dog by adopting mixed breeds as adults.

For your situation, skipping the puppy stage has a real benefit. If you take your time and work with shelter and rescue groups, you should be able to come up with a dog with maturity and some training who'll fit right into your family without all the time-consuming fuss demanded by a puppy.

Q: Please solve an argument my roommate and I are having. She has a cat, and I'd rather she not. But I can tolerate the beast, except for the litterbox smell. My roommate says cleaning the litterbox once a week is enough; I say it's not. Who's right? -- S.C., via e-mail

A: Ideally the box should be scooped every time the cat uses it, or a couple times a day at least. Realistically, daily attention is probably fine.

Aside from the issue of smell, tell your roommate that by neglecting this chore she's flirting with a bigger problem: a cat who skips the litterbox. Cats don't like dirty bathrooms any more than people do, and your roommate's pet may start looking for a cleaner place to go if this stinky situation isn't remedied.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

People are always asking me to recommend a good pet for a child, an affectionate animal that can be cared for with a minimum of adult assistance.

"A rabbit?" they ask. I shake my head. Rabbits, especially the bigger varieties, are hard for a child to hold. When they don't feel secure, rabbits will kick -- and in so doing will sometimes break their backs. The result? A dead rabbit and a heartbroken child. So ... no rabbits, at least not for young children.

Mice? "Too small, too fragile," I reply. Hamster? "Better, but too interested in sleeping during the day, plus they're natural escape artists and somewhat nippy," I say. "Well, what then?" the parent will finally demand.

To them I say: rats.

And after the air clears of expressions of revulsion and disgust, I explain why a rat is a great pet for a child -- and indeed for almost any animal lover.

Forget horror movies and the bubonic plague. We're not talking about wild rats, but domesticated ones. Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits with an open mind.

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily, and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders. They like people!

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love to perform. A friend of mine trained a rat for her college-level psychology course, and came to like the little guy so much that he's now a doted-on pet in her home.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling -- and occasionally, the unintentional mishandling -- of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are cute. Think sleek, shiny fur, dark, glossy eyes and cute little ears. You say it's the tail that gets to you? Give a rat a break. If he just had a fluffy tail he'd be a squirrel, and people would give him nuts in the park. Really, is that fair?

-- Rats are diverse. Did you know that rats come in many more colors and patterns than the gray-brown of a street rat and the white of a lab rat? Think colors like silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings like hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked. Gorgeous!

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a slightly larger animal, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish and a water bottle, some toys, and you're set. Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for them, and will love you if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

The downside of rats? They don't live all that long -- two to three years -- and they're prone to tumors. And like all rodents, they live and love to chew. Provide all the chew toys imaginable, and they'll still put a hole in a piece of apparel faster than you can say "rats!"

The only thing rats need to become more popular as pets is a good public-relations campaign, and maybe a new name. Short-tailed squirrels, maybe?

No matter. If you're looking for a bright, clean and entertaining pet, you need look no further than the rat. These animals are great for a first pet, or a lifelong interest.

PETS ON THE WEB

Debbie Ducommun loves rats, so much so that the Chico., Calif., woman runs a group to promote rats. The Rat Fan Club has a very nice home on the Internet (www.ratfanclub.org), with helpful information on finding and caring for rats, along with recommendations on books and other rat-related items. Don't forget to check out the "Rat of the Week."

Another useful rat-related Web site is Pet Rats Canada (www.geocities.com/pet_rats_canada/Home.htm), which also includes care information, along with instructions on how to build simple habitats and links to other rat sites. Finally, don't forget to visit the Rat and Mouse Club of America site (www.rmca.org).

THE SCOOP

Toys are important for any pet. Animals weren't designed to live sedentary lives, whether in cages like a bird or rodents, or on the couch like a cat or dog. Although sleeping takes up a lot of time, pets still need something to do to keep their minds and bodies engaged -- and that's where toys come in. People readily accept the idea that dogs and even cats need toys, but they tend to overlook these important items when it comes to caged pets.

Toys marketed for birds are usually great for rodents, too, but you don't always need to pay for your pet's play. Freebies small pets enjoy include the centers of toilet paper and paper towel rolls, old toothbrushes (run them through the dishwasher first), leather shoelaces and small branches, especially from fruit trees.

Q: Our 7-month-old cocker spaniel, Muffin, is just about perfect. She's sweet and well-mannered, good with our two boys and has even made friends with our cat. The only problem Muffin has is with urinating when she first meets someone. It's kind of embarrassing, since we tell everyone how great she is and then she breaks her training and squats in front of the guest. We've spanked her, but it doesn't help. Any ideas? -- S.W., via e-mail

A: Muffin's behavior is called "submissive urination," and it's relatively common in young, shy, sweet-natured dogs. Typically, the problem occurs when the dog is greeting a guest or returning family member, but it also can happen when a dog is being scolded.

Amongst themselves, dogs and wolves use submissive urination to reinforce pack order -- an animal will roll over and squirt urine to acknowledge the higher rank of a more dominant pack member. In a way, your dog is paying you a high compliment, saying, in effect, "You're the boss, and I'm acknowledging that."

To some extent, growing up will help with this problem, but you can't rely on the maturation process to do the job entirely. You'll need to build Muffin's confidence to the point where she doesn't feel like she needs such displays.

Start by making sure there's no medical reason for the problem. Have Muffin checked out by your veterinarian. Once she has a clean bill of health, work on the problem by keeping greetings quiet and low-key. Present a less-dominant posture by crouching down to pet her, by approaching with your side facing her, rather than coming straight on. Speak to her in a soft way when greeting her.

Because some dogs are frightened by a hand coming down on them from above, pet your dog under the chin instead of on top of the head, and don't make direct eye contact, which can also be intimidating to a shy dog.

Finally, use training both to teach your pet alternative behaviors and to bolster her confidence. Teach her to sit, and then ask for it on your arrival, gently rewarding her for her good behavior. This substitution approach lets your dog know that the way to greet "the boss" is by sitting, not urinating. Make sure all training is kept positive and reward-based. Punishment needn't be a part of any dog's training, but it surely shouldn't be part of the program with a submissive dog.

As Muffin's confidence increases, her submissive urination should decrease. Be patient, and if you don't see signs of gradual change, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can set out a program for Muffin and your family to follow.

Q: I know you are in favor of dog parks, but I wonder if you realize how dangerous it is for large and small dogs to mix. Our community has a dog park, and the other day a Yorkie was almost killed by an Akita. To some big dogs, a small dog isn't a playmate -- it's prey. Please warn people! -- P.E., via e-mail

A: I agree with you -- to a point. Since dog parks are generally policed by peer pressure (when they are policed at all), I would not count on the common sense of another to protect a small dog. That's why I don't recommend letting small dogs mix it up with the big ones.

But I also have no tolerance for canine aggression. Any dog who would attack another with lethal intent shouldn't be off-leash anywhere, not even in a dog park.

I've had one bad experience with someone who brought such an animal to an off-leash park where my dogs go to play. Despite repeated demands to leash and remove his aggressive dog, the animal's owner insisted that he had a "right" to be there. I later heard that the man found out on another day that he had a "right" to write some rather large checks when his animal finally injured another dog very seriously -- and bit a person trying to stop the attack.

I haven't seen man or dog since, and good riddance.

But even without such animals, it's best to keep large dogs and small ones apart. Some dog parks offer separate areas for dogs of different sizes, and this is a splendid idea.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600