People are always asking me to recommend a good pet for a child, an affectionate animal that can be cared for with a minimum of adult assistance.

"A rabbit?" they ask. I shake my head. Rabbits, especially the bigger varieties, are hard for a child to hold. When they don't feel secure, rabbits will kick -- and in so doing will sometimes break their backs. The result? A dead rabbit and a heartbroken child. So ... no rabbits, at least not for young children.

Mice? "Too small, too fragile," I reply. Hamster? "Better, but too interested in sleeping during the day, plus they're natural escape artists and somewhat nippy," I say. "Well, what then?" the parent will finally demand.

To them I say: rats.

And after the air clears of expressions of revulsion and disgust, I explain why a rat is a great pet for a child -- and indeed for almost any animal lover.

Forget horror movies and the bubonic plague. We're not talking about wild rats, but domesticated ones. Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits with an open mind.

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily, and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders. They like people!

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love to perform. A friend of mine trained a rat for her college-level psychology course, and came to like the little guy so much that he's now a doted-on pet in her home.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling -- and occasionally, the unintentional mishandling -- of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are cute. Think sleek, shiny fur, dark, glossy eyes and cute little ears. You say it's the tail that gets to you? Give a rat a break. If he just had a fluffy tail he'd be a squirrel, and people would give him nuts in the park. Really, is that fair?

-- Rats are diverse. Did you know that rats come in many more colors and patterns than the gray-brown of a street rat and the white of a lab rat? Think colors like silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings like hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked. Gorgeous!

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a slightly larger animal, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish and a water bottle, some toys, and you're set. Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for them, and will love you if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

The downside of rats? They don't live all that long -- two to three years -- and they're prone to tumors. And like all rodents, they live and love to chew. Provide all the chew toys imaginable, and they'll still put a hole in a piece of apparel faster than you can say "rats!"

The only thing rats need to become more popular as pets is a good public-relations campaign, and maybe a new name. Short-tailed squirrels, maybe?

No matter. If you're looking for a bright, clean and entertaining pet, you need look no further than the rat. These animals are great for a first pet, or a lifelong interest.

PETS ON THE WEB

Debbie Ducommun loves rats, so much so that the Chico., Calif., woman runs a group to promote rats. The Rat Fan Club has a very nice home on the Internet (www.ratfanclub.org), with helpful information on finding and caring for rats, along with recommendations on books and other rat-related items. Don't forget to check out the "Rat of the Week."

Another useful rat-related Web site is Pet Rats Canada (www.geocities.com/pet_rats_canada/Home.htm), which also includes care information, along with instructions on how to build simple habitats and links to other rat sites. Finally, don't forget to visit the Rat and Mouse Club of America site (www.rmca.org).

THE SCOOP

Toys are important for any pet. Animals weren't designed to live sedentary lives, whether in cages like a bird or rodents, or on the couch like a cat or dog. Although sleeping takes up a lot of time, pets still need something to do to keep their minds and bodies engaged -- and that's where toys come in. People readily accept the idea that dogs and even cats need toys, but they tend to overlook these important items when it comes to caged pets.

Toys marketed for birds are usually great for rodents, too, but you don't always need to pay for your pet's play. Freebies small pets enjoy include the centers of toilet paper and paper towel rolls, old toothbrushes (run them through the dishwasher first), leather shoelaces and small branches, especially from fruit trees.

Q: Our 7-month-old cocker spaniel, Muffin, is just about perfect. She's sweet and well-mannered, good with our two boys and has even made friends with our cat. The only problem Muffin has is with urinating when she first meets someone. It's kind of embarrassing, since we tell everyone how great she is and then she breaks her training and squats in front of the guest. We've spanked her, but it doesn't help. Any ideas? -- S.W., via e-mail

A: Muffin's behavior is called "submissive urination," and it's relatively common in young, shy, sweet-natured dogs. Typically, the problem occurs when the dog is greeting a guest or returning family member, but it also can happen when a dog is being scolded.

Amongst themselves, dogs and wolves use submissive urination to reinforce pack order -- an animal will roll over and squirt urine to acknowledge the higher rank of a more dominant pack member. In a way, your dog is paying you a high compliment, saying, in effect, "You're the boss, and I'm acknowledging that."

To some extent, growing up will help with this problem, but you can't rely on the maturation process to do the job entirely. You'll need to build Muffin's confidence to the point where she doesn't feel like she needs such displays.

Start by making sure there's no medical reason for the problem. Have Muffin checked out by your veterinarian. Once she has a clean bill of health, work on the problem by keeping greetings quiet and low-key. Present a less-dominant posture by crouching down to pet her, by approaching with your side facing her, rather than coming straight on. Speak to her in a soft way when greeting her.

Because some dogs are frightened by a hand coming down on them from above, pet your dog under the chin instead of on top of the head, and don't make direct eye contact, which can also be intimidating to a shy dog.

Finally, use training both to teach your pet alternative behaviors and to bolster her confidence. Teach her to sit, and then ask for it on your arrival, gently rewarding her for her good behavior. This substitution approach lets your dog know that the way to greet "the boss" is by sitting, not urinating. Make sure all training is kept positive and reward-based. Punishment needn't be a part of any dog's training, but it surely shouldn't be part of the program with a submissive dog.

As Muffin's confidence increases, her submissive urination should decrease. Be patient, and if you don't see signs of gradual change, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can set out a program for Muffin and your family to follow.

Q: I know you are in favor of dog parks, but I wonder if you realize how dangerous it is for large and small dogs to mix. Our community has a dog park, and the other day a Yorkie was almost killed by an Akita. To some big dogs, a small dog isn't a playmate -- it's prey. Please warn people! -- P.E., via e-mail

A: I agree with you -- to a point. Since dog parks are generally policed by peer pressure (when they are policed at all), I would not count on the common sense of another to protect a small dog. That's why I don't recommend letting small dogs mix it up with the big ones.

But I also have no tolerance for canine aggression. Any dog who would attack another with lethal intent shouldn't be off-leash anywhere, not even in a dog park.

I've had one bad experience with someone who brought such an animal to an off-leash park where my dogs go to play. Despite repeated demands to leash and remove his aggressive dog, the animal's owner insisted that he had a "right" to be there. I later heard that the man found out on another day that he had a "right" to write some rather large checks when his animal finally injured another dog very seriously -- and bit a person trying to stop the attack.

I haven't seen man or dog since, and good riddance.

But even without such animals, it's best to keep large dogs and small ones apart. Some dog parks offer separate areas for dogs of different sizes, and this is a splendid idea.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Holidays are anything but fun for many pets. While we humans love the change in routine, the parties, the guests and the decorations, our furred and feathered family members too often find the disruptions disturbing -- and sometimes dangerous.

If I had to pick a holiday that's the least compatible with pets, it would have to be the Fourth of July. Fireworks are flat-out distressing to many animals. Many spend the holiday on tranquilizers, while others (who probably should have been sedated and certainly confined) take off in terror from their yards. The lucky ones are found by neighbors or land in shelters, but there are always those animals who are hit by cars or are simply never heard from again.

The Fourth of July may be a pet's worst nightmare, but Halloween is pretty close to the top of the list in terms of risks, too. The two biggest problems with this ghoulish holiday are frightened pets and poisoned pets -- and animal emergency clinics traditionally see plenty of both. With the increase in activity, cats and dogs get nervous and some will take off if they can. That means an increase in animals hit by cars. Other animals may be a cause of injury: All those costumed young visitors can trigger territorial instincts or fear-responses in some dogs, who may then become a bite risk.

The best solution for nervous pets is to confine them for the evening in a crate or a quiet room far from the front door or any holiday festivities. Many animal-welfare groups warn that black cats are at special risk around Halloween, claiming that cultists pick up the animals for ritual torture. Such concerns have led many shelters to halt the adoption of black cats in the days before Halloween. In truth, such cruelties are so poorly documented that they surely happen rarely, if at all. Most fall in the realm of urban legends. Your black cat is more likely to be killed by a car than a cultist, but the threat of either is more than reason enough to keep him inside. If you keep your pets confined safely inside the house, you will eliminate one source of risk. Keeping them away from the goodies will take care of the other.

Candy is a problem more for dogs than for cats, because cats are generally picky about what they eat. Not so for most dogs, who'll wolf down candy wrappers and all if given the opportunity, giving many a serious case of what veterinarians call "garbage gut." Any candy can trigger a bout of intestinal upset, but chocolate can do much worse. The small dog who gets a large amount of chocolate could end up dead without prompt veterinary intervention.

Some people put costumes on their dogs, and that's safe enough if you use common sense. You can find ready-made costumes in most pet stores, in almost as much variety as you'll find in stores for children. Homemade costumes can be fun, too, and you'll find a surprising number of pet-costume events where you and your dog can show off your handiwork.

The standby costume for my black retrievers has always been to put round white stickers on them, creating "reverse Dalmatians." Such a costume meets the commonsense standard: It's comfortable and nonrestrictive, and it doesn't involve anything that could be hazardous, such as dye or paint.

While pets may not like holidays as much as we do, any celebration can be made pet-safe with just a few basic precautions. Be sure to take them, because veterinarians would rather hand out candy to children than medicine to pets on Halloween.

PETS ON THE WEB

Black cats may be considered unlucky by many people, but African-American culture traditionally takes another view. According to the Web site of the Lucky Mojo Curio Co. (www.luckymojo.com/blackcat.html), which sells traditional and folkloric spiritual supplies based in the African-American, Asian and Latin-American traditions, black cats are believed to bring good luck to gamblers.

Unfortunately, some of the rituals aren't lucky to the cats themselves: One of the good-luck pieces the site details (and decries, fortunately) is the bone of a black cat, historically achieved through hideous torture of the animal. The site says there are voodoo practitioners that claim to be selling the bones of black cats, but the product is really a chicken bone.

THE SCOOP

A lot of products get sent my way by manufacturers hoping I'll write about them. Most don't pass muster with the in-house testing staff, who have made mincemeat out of "indestructible" chew toys and created messes with "untippable" water bowls. Recently, though, a box of goodies was a big hit with my canine crowd.

Chewtastics is a series of chew toys. And on first glance they look much like the selection of bones, rawhides and hooves you'd find in any pet-supply outlet. But these products are made with a different process that allows the manufacturer to preserve the marrow, tendons and more on the bone. The result? A better chew, at least to judge by how happily my dogs went for them.

Although I didn't offer the hoof product to my crew -- hooves can break into nasty, sharp shards, so I avoid them -- the bones provided many hours of entertainment to my two retrievers, who are enthusiastic chewers.

Chewtastics are priced from $1.99 to $4.99, and are available at pet-supply stores, including Petco. For more information, visit the company's Web site (www.chewtastics.com), or call toll-free: 866-489-8196.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Why don't you like Jack Russell terriers? We have two and they are a handful, but we love them! They are the best breed around. Look at Eddie on the show "Frasier" and tell me another dog that's cuter and smarter. And what about "Wishbone"? 'Nuff said. - H.W., via e-mail

A: I love Jack Russell terriers! They are adorable, funny and very bright. "Wishbone," a PBS show for children that features a Jack Russell in the title role, is one of my favorite guilty pleasures. But I cannot deny that JRs are one of the breeds I find myself talking people out of most frequently. Or I console people after they've adopted a Jack Russell, only to find out they got far more dog than they bargained for.

The latter group usually writes letters that go something like this: "Help! We have a Jack Russell, and he barks, jumps, digs and chews nonstop! What can we do?"

I'm always tempted to write back: "Congratulations! You have a real Jack Russell. They all bark, jump, dig and chew nonstop. You didn't know that?" You can -- and should -- train a Jack Russell, but the best you can do is end up with a well-behaved ball of fire. You can't change the essential personality of any breed, so you'd better know what you're in for before you adopt.

Now, before the nastygrams roll in from people who have sedate JRs, let me say that even the Jack Russell Terrier Club of America feels compelled to warn people about the breed on its JRTCA Web site (www.terrier.com).

"Many experienced, as well as inexperienced, dog owners are overwhelmed by the demands of a Jack Russell terrier, leading to the dogs being abandoned even before they reach adulthood," notes the site, which offers a profile to help potential JR owners determine if they are up to the task of keeping one.

It comes down to this: Do your homework! If you want a relatively calm, laidback temperament in a dog, get a basset hound. Don't expect a Jack Russell to be anything except what he is -- five dogs' worth of energy stuffed into an adorable little body. There's no such thing as a "bad" breed, just people who choose the wrong breed for their personalities, preferences and lifestyles.

As for Eddie on "Frasier," that dog, whose real name is Moose, has a full-time trainer to keep him in line. 'Nuff said.

Q: When our cat got sick, our veterinarian recommended giving her baby food to coax her to eat until she felt better. Is that really a good idea? -- G.A., via e-mail

A: Meat baby foods are very popular with cats and can get a finicky pet to show interest in food again. Just read the label and choose a food without onion powder in it. That stuff's not good for cats.

You may not have to use baby food to get your kitty to eat, though. Sometimes warming up the meal will increase its palatability. Just put a little canned food on a plate and microwave for 30 seconds or so, then stir to eliminate any hot spots. You want the food to be about body temperature --warm, but not hot.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As the days grow shorter and the nights grow colder, you may be observing what seems rather odd for a body preparing for winter: Your dog is shedding more than usual.

Be reassured: It's perfectly normal.

Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, when it is replaced by a shorter, lighter one for summer. In the fall, this cycle is reversed, as the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy protective fur for winter. The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, shelties and keeshonden. Those breeds carry not only a harsh, protective long overcoat, but also a soft, insulating undercoat -- and they lose masses of fur from both in spring and fall.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose little fur at all. Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as the longhairs, but since the hair they shed is easily overlooked, it may seem as if they are shedding less.

All shedders -- even the heaviest -- can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won't end up on a rug. Work against the grain and close to the skin to catch as much of the ready-to-fall fur as possible.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, ask a breeder for grooming advice, especially in regard to the proper kind of grooming equipment. The slicker brush that works fine on a poodle won't make much headway in the thick mane of a full-coated collie at the height of a seasonal shed. For a shorthaired dog, a curry comb or hound glove will do the job well, catching the short fur before it ends up on your rug.

No matter what the breed, shedding -- and heavy seasonal shedding -- is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems to dull or excessive hair loss is noticed.

Other fall pet-care tips:

-- Antifreeze. If you're into do-it-yourself car care, consider using one of the new brands of antifreeze that are safer around pets and children. The other kind is so deadly that a cat walking through a puddle of it can die after cleaning fluid off a paw. Clean up any spills promptly and dispose of used fluids safely and properly.

-- Cold-weather cautions. Assess your pet's condition, age, level of exercise and weight, and make adjustments for the cold. In general, inside pets need less food (to offset a decrease in activity), and outside pets need more (keeping warm requires energy, and food is the fuel). Cold weather is especially tough on older pets. For elderly animals, it's not ridiculous to help out by putting a sweater on them when they go outside. Don't forget shelter, and make sure your pet always has access to water that hasn't been frozen. Outside or in, heated beds are a good idea, too, and there are many models to choose from in pet-supply catalogs, stores or Web sites.

PETS ON THE WEB

While I always recommend that dogs become part of the family by being an indoor pet, I recognize that some situations call for a dog to spend all or most of his time outside. If your dog spends much time outside, you need to provide a shelter that will keep him warm when winter rolls in. Dog-lover Mike Strong has probably put more thought into the construction of dog houses than anyone else alive, and his Dog House Construction Web site (www.mikestrong.com/doghouse/index.html) is proof. He provides step-by-step detail and pictures of the houses he made for his dogs, along with links to other construction plans and a funny page of answers to people who write to ask him who made him an expert on building dog houses. This site is much more entertaining that it has a right to be, given the subject matter.

THE SCOOP

Looking for a dog food that offers real meat, whole grains and no artificial preservatives? The current edition of The Whole Dog Journal comes up with 18 canned foods that offer the very best -- with human-grade ingredients, in some cases. WDJ is the one pet-related publication I can't wait to read every month, an advertising-free newsletter aimed at people who are interested in reward-based training, alternative veterinary care and top nutrition. Subscriptions to the monthly newsletter are $29 per year, and that price includes access to articles in back issues on the publication's Web site, www.whole-dog-journal.com. You can also subscribe by writing to P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I don't know what to do about our dog Sasha's disgusting desire to eat cat feces out of the litter box. She's obsessive about it! We punish her, but nothing stops her. If she sees a chance to indulge, she can't resist. She's such a good dog otherwise, but this problem is really getting to us (and it can't be good for her, either). Every time she wants to kiss one of us, I think where her mouth has been and it makes me sick. Help us! -- K.F., via e-mail

A: Yours is one of the most common complaints I get from those who have both dogs and cats. Even pet experts have such troubles: When I was at a two-week course on pet behavior at the Denver Dumb Friends League, we had some of the shelter kittens visit us one day while we worked. Later that day, one of the instructors brought in her dogs -- and they both made a beeline for the litter box the kittens had used. We all smiled in rueful recognition: Most of us in the class have the problem in our own homes, too.

Litter boxes are irresistible to dogs: They're drawn to the undigested protein that remains in feline feces. Faced with constant supply and ready access, no dog will be able to resist for long, which is why efforts to train your pet haven't been successful.

The better plan would be to restrict access, which can be accomplished in many ways, including:

-- Covered litter boxes. You can find litter boxes with lids at almost any pet-supply store, and this might fix the problem. Cats who have asthma shouldn't use them, some cats won't use them, and some dogs are strong enough (or small enough) to get to the box anyway. But for some households, a covered box will solve the problem.

-- Change the litter box location. Make any change slowly, so as not to discourage litter box use by your cat. But it doesn't hurt to experiment with such things as moving the litter box to a location above the dog's reach.

-- Provide barriers. One way is to rig the door so it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. One friend of mine did this by putting hooks on the edge of a closest door and the door jamb, and then by putting a length of chain between them to allow the door to stay open wide enough for the cat, but not for the dog. Another possibility is to cut a cat-sized hole through the door to the litter box room. For a small dog able to fit through any opening a cat can, a baby gate is an alternative: The cat can jump over, but the dog cannot. You might also be able to put the box in an unused bathtub, if your dog is small enough.

Experiment with what works, and realize punishment doesn't when the reward is as wonderful (to your dog) as the litter box contents. This is one case in which training the people in the house to make adjustments works much better than trying to train the dog.

Q: Recently we adopted a female Rottweiler from the SPCA. The dog was fixed while in heat. Will this make the animal emotionally unbalanced? -- F.D., via e-mail

A: Not at all. Although many veterinarians would prefer not to spay when a dog is in season because the surgery is more difficult, once the procedure is done, the animal's body will adjust just fine. As with any surgery, it's important to follow the veterinarian's advice for aftercare, and call for help if you notice any problems, such as post-operative infection.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600