As the days grow shorter and the nights grow colder, you may be observing what seems rather odd for a body preparing for winter: Your dog is shedding more than usual.

Be reassured: It's perfectly normal.

Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, when it is replaced by a shorter, lighter one for summer. In the fall, this cycle is reversed, as the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy protective fur for winter. The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, shelties and keeshonden. Those breeds carry not only a harsh, protective long overcoat, but also a soft, insulating undercoat -- and they lose masses of fur from both in spring and fall.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose little fur at all. Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as the longhairs, but since the hair they shed is easily overlooked, it may seem as if they are shedding less.

All shedders -- even the heaviest -- can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won't end up on a rug. Work against the grain and close to the skin to catch as much of the ready-to-fall fur as possible.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, ask a breeder for grooming advice, especially in regard to the proper kind of grooming equipment. The slicker brush that works fine on a poodle won't make much headway in the thick mane of a full-coated collie at the height of a seasonal shed. For a shorthaired dog, a curry comb or hound glove will do the job well, catching the short fur before it ends up on your rug.

No matter what the breed, shedding -- and heavy seasonal shedding -- is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems to dull or excessive hair loss is noticed.

Other fall pet-care tips:

-- Antifreeze. If you're into do-it-yourself car care, consider using one of the new brands of antifreeze that are safer around pets and children. The other kind is so deadly that a cat walking through a puddle of it can die after cleaning fluid off a paw. Clean up any spills promptly and dispose of used fluids safely and properly.

-- Cold-weather cautions. Assess your pet's condition, age, level of exercise and weight, and make adjustments for the cold. In general, inside pets need less food (to offset a decrease in activity), and outside pets need more (keeping warm requires energy, and food is the fuel). Cold weather is especially tough on older pets. For elderly animals, it's not ridiculous to help out by putting a sweater on them when they go outside. Don't forget shelter, and make sure your pet always has access to water that hasn't been frozen. Outside or in, heated beds are a good idea, too, and there are many models to choose from in pet-supply catalogs, stores or Web sites.

PETS ON THE WEB

While I always recommend that dogs become part of the family by being an indoor pet, I recognize that some situations call for a dog to spend all or most of his time outside. If your dog spends much time outside, you need to provide a shelter that will keep him warm when winter rolls in. Dog-lover Mike Strong has probably put more thought into the construction of dog houses than anyone else alive, and his Dog House Construction Web site (www.mikestrong.com/doghouse/index.html) is proof. He provides step-by-step detail and pictures of the houses he made for his dogs, along with links to other construction plans and a funny page of answers to people who write to ask him who made him an expert on building dog houses. This site is much more entertaining that it has a right to be, given the subject matter.

THE SCOOP

Looking for a dog food that offers real meat, whole grains and no artificial preservatives? The current edition of The Whole Dog Journal comes up with 18 canned foods that offer the very best -- with human-grade ingredients, in some cases. WDJ is the one pet-related publication I can't wait to read every month, an advertising-free newsletter aimed at people who are interested in reward-based training, alternative veterinary care and top nutrition. Subscriptions to the monthly newsletter are $29 per year, and that price includes access to articles in back issues on the publication's Web site, www.whole-dog-journal.com. You can also subscribe by writing to P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I don't know what to do about our dog Sasha's disgusting desire to eat cat feces out of the litter box. She's obsessive about it! We punish her, but nothing stops her. If she sees a chance to indulge, she can't resist. She's such a good dog otherwise, but this problem is really getting to us (and it can't be good for her, either). Every time she wants to kiss one of us, I think where her mouth has been and it makes me sick. Help us! -- K.F., via e-mail

A: Yours is one of the most common complaints I get from those who have both dogs and cats. Even pet experts have such troubles: When I was at a two-week course on pet behavior at the Denver Dumb Friends League, we had some of the shelter kittens visit us one day while we worked. Later that day, one of the instructors brought in her dogs -- and they both made a beeline for the litter box the kittens had used. We all smiled in rueful recognition: Most of us in the class have the problem in our own homes, too.

Litter boxes are irresistible to dogs: They're drawn to the undigested protein that remains in feline feces. Faced with constant supply and ready access, no dog will be able to resist for long, which is why efforts to train your pet haven't been successful.

The better plan would be to restrict access, which can be accomplished in many ways, including:

-- Covered litter boxes. You can find litter boxes with lids at almost any pet-supply store, and this might fix the problem. Cats who have asthma shouldn't use them, some cats won't use them, and some dogs are strong enough (or small enough) to get to the box anyway. But for some households, a covered box will solve the problem.

-- Change the litter box location. Make any change slowly, so as not to discourage litter box use by your cat. But it doesn't hurt to experiment with such things as moving the litter box to a location above the dog's reach.

-- Provide barriers. One way is to rig the door so it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. One friend of mine did this by putting hooks on the edge of a closest door and the door jamb, and then by putting a length of chain between them to allow the door to stay open wide enough for the cat, but not for the dog. Another possibility is to cut a cat-sized hole through the door to the litter box room. For a small dog able to fit through any opening a cat can, a baby gate is an alternative: The cat can jump over, but the dog cannot. You might also be able to put the box in an unused bathtub, if your dog is small enough.

Experiment with what works, and realize punishment doesn't when the reward is as wonderful (to your dog) as the litter box contents. This is one case in which training the people in the house to make adjustments works much better than trying to train the dog.

Q: Recently we adopted a female Rottweiler from the SPCA. The dog was fixed while in heat. Will this make the animal emotionally unbalanced? -- F.D., via e-mail

A: Not at all. Although many veterinarians would prefer not to spay when a dog is in season because the surgery is more difficult, once the procedure is done, the animal's body will adjust just fine. As with any surgery, it's important to follow the veterinarian's advice for aftercare, and call for help if you notice any problems, such as post-operative infection.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The problem with placing adult cats, says a friend of mine who has found homes for dozens of them, is that everyone who wants a cat usually has one already. And many of the people who are in the market for a cat would rather start with a kitten.

That's a shame on both counts. First, because cats often enjoy the company of others of their own kind, especially if left alone inside all day while the family is at work or school. As for kittens, well, what's not to love? But an adult cat can often ease into a household more quickly, and without the sometimes over-the-top behavior of an energetic youngster.

The first step to placing an adult cat may be convincing prospective owners that two cats are better than one, and better yet if the second is a loving adult. Is it a hard sell? It can be, as any shelter manager can attest: Adult cats have low adoption rates when compared to kittens and even to adult dogs. But if you've ended up with an extra adult cat -- a stray perhaps, or a cat left behind by the death of a friend or relative -- you don't have to write off the animal as a lost cause. If you're patient and persistent, you'll likely find a home. Here are some tips to follow:

-- Do everything you can to make the animal more adoptable. The pet has a better chance for adoption if her vaccinations are current, she uses her litter box reliably, and she's altered.

-- Don't lie about the pet's problems or why she's being placed. Although finding a new home for a pet with problems takes longer, you can usually still do so. But the person who gets such a pet without warning is likely to bring her back, take her to a shelter or give her away -- maybe to a horrible situation.

-- Spread the news. Make up fliers, and take out an ad in your newspaper and on the Internet. Post the fliers everywhere you can: bulletin boards at work, pet-supply stores and your veterinarian's office. Give some to your friends and family to post where they work, too. Talk up the cat (at least briefly) with everyone you know. Even people who don't like cats (or don't want one) may know someone who is looking for a pet. The more exposure you can get, the better. If a thousand people hear or read about the animal, you probably will get no interest from 999, but you need only one person to provide a good home for the cat. And that's the one you need to reach.

-- Ask lots of questions and verify that the answers are true. Don't forget to ask prospective adopters whether they've had pets before and what happened to them. Make sure you're dealing with people who realize that owning a pet is a long-term commitment. The person who has had a lot of pets who disappeared, died young or were given away is probably not your best choice. My favorite question: Who's your veterinarian? Someone who cannot at least name a vet or a veterinary hospital may have pets who don't go there very often.

Above all, don't give up! It may take weeks to find the right home for a pet, but it's always worth the time it may take to get it right. The goal here is not to "get rid of" an animal, but to find a loving, caring and, most of all, permanent home for a pet who needs one. They're out there, and if you keep looking you'll likely find the home that's just right for the cat you're trying to help.

THE SCOOP

The Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, sprawled across a couple of thousand acres outside of the southern Utah town of Kanab, has done as much as any organization to change the way unwanted animals are handled. Best Friends harbors some 2,000 animals, not only dogs and cats but also horses, rabbits, raptors and more, and is a national leader in the so-called "no-kill" movement, which seeks the end to the euthanasia of any adoptable pets.

Want to learn more? Check out Samantha Glen's "Best Friends: The True Story of the World's Most Beloved Animal Sanctuary" ($15; Kensington Publishing). The book is a wonderful read, combining the history of a small group of visionary people with the stories of the animals they've saved. If you can't go to Best Friends (and as someone who has been there, I can tell you it's well worth the trip), Glen's heartwarming book is the next best thing. You can also visit the group's Web site, at www.bestfriends.org.

PETS ON THE WEB

The College of Veterinary Medicine at Washington State University has put together a nifty site that explores the anatomy of dogs and cats. "Anatomy for the Pet Owner" (www.vetmed.wsu.edu/ClientED/anatomy/) offers fairly detailed drawings that show the skeletal and organ systems, with the ability to click on each separate area to gain access to more information. See the liver in all its detail, right down to the quadrate lobe! The site is easy to navigate and fun to play with. For any parent with a budding veterinarian in the family, this site is certainly one to share.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have two cats, 6 years old. We are expecting our first child in about three months. Our cats are primarily indoor cats. We let them outside during the daytime on the weekends when we are home.

We will be purchasing and assembling a crib in a couple of months, and I am hoping that you will have some suggestions for training our cats to stay out of the crib. -- P.S., via e-mail

A: Congratulations on the addition to your family. And good for you for not following the too-common advice to find new homes for your pets when you became pregnant. Too many pets become homeless on the recommendations of well-meaning but misinformed friends, relatives and even physicians.

The good news is that in most cases cats and children will co-exist happily, but getting to that point does require a modicum of common sense on your part. Cats don't smother babies, despite old wives' tales to the contrary, but it's still essential to keep your pets and your infant child apart unless you're supervising.

You cannot really train a cat to stay out of the crib, so it's better to put up a barrier to keep your pets out if you're not watching. A common bit of advice is to replace the nursery door with a screen door. It's not hard to do, and will allow you to hear your baby while keeping the cats away from the crib.

Cats sometimes forget their house manners at times of household stress or change. If your cats start forgetting where the litter box is once the baby arrives, don't punish them. Stressing them further will only make the situation worse. Instead, ease them into new routines by keeping them in a room away from all the hubbub for a couple of weeks -- a spare bedroom is ideal. Be sure to provide them with clean litter boxes, food, water, and a scratching post or cat tree, and don't forget to carve some time out of your new routine to reassure them with praise, petting and play.

Pets are good for children! If you gently introduce your pets to the idea of having a new "sibling," your child will be well-positioned to learn the lessons of responsibility and compassion that pets are so good at teaching.

Q: Would you please remind dog owners that having your dog run with you on your bike or inline skates in 90-degree heat puts a strain on the animals? I see many dogs running alongside a bicyclist who is staying cool by moving, while the dogs are panting and looking very hot. -- M.B., via e-mail

A: Thank you for the excellent reminder. I find that spring and fall are often more of a heat hazard to dogs than summer is. That's because people understand not to run their dogs in extreme heat, but often don't see the danger in the warmth of a lovely spring or fall day.

Most dogs need more exercise then they get, and walking, running, biking or skating with a pet is a great way to go. Be sure, though, to restrict such activities to the cool hours of early morning, and watch your pet for signs of heat stress, including glassy eyes and rapid panting. At the first sign of a problem, end the outing and get your pet into a cool place to rest, with plenty of water.

Another safety tip involves not the dogs, but the people. I've seen quite a few people skating with dogs who could generously be described as being barely under control. Before you get up to speed with your dog, be sure his leash manners are solid (get a trainer's help if necessary), and don't forget protective gear for yourself -- helmet and pads are a must. A big dog can pull someone on inline skates along at a very fast clip, and a fall at such a speed can be very nasty indeed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The recent terrorist attacks have tragically changed the lives of many four-legged family members as well as the human ones. In the areas surrounding New York City and Washington, D.C., many pets were left behind on the morning of Sept. 11 by people who'll never come home again.

While the scale of the tragedies has brought home the point with brutal force, the truth is that every day we all face the possibility of disaster. Every day could be the one in which your own pets suddenly lose a loving caretaker.

No one wants to think about such things, but always there exists a chance, however remote, that you could suddenly become unable to care for your pet because of an illness or accident. Depending on the circumstances, the situation may be temporary, or your pets may need a new home for good. Either way, you need to be sure your pets are covered.

The first step is to make sure someone (or a couple of people, better yet) know that you have pets, where they are and how to care for them. Trade information with other pet-keeping friends, family or neighbors, along with the keys to each other's homes.

I like to recommend making a file with all your pet's information. Pictures and a physical description of your pet are a good place to start. Add to the folder an overview of your pet's medical records, including proof of altering and dates of vaccinations. Instructions for any medications should include not only the dosage and where to find the bottle, but also whatever method you use to entice your pet to swallow the pill.

Don't forget a copy of your pet's license, as well as the name, address and phone number of the animal's veterinarian. Write down some information about the tricks and commands your pet knows, as well as any unique personality quirks, such as a favorite spot to be petted.

As part of your preparation, talk to your veterinarian about setting up plans for emergency care or boarding. If you're a long-term client who always pays bills promptly, you should have no problem getting your veterinarian to agree to run a tab if you cannot be reached immediately. I have the arrangement with my veterinarian that if anyone -- absolutely anyone -- comes in with one of my animals, the doctor will take the pet in and do what needs to be done. And he knows that either I or my heirs will settle the bill later. If you are able to make such arrangements, put those details in the folder, too.

The final bit of information for the folder should concern arrangements for your pet if you never come home again. While no one likes to think about this possibility, you have a responsibility to your pets to provide for them after your death. You cannot leave money directly to an animal, but you can leave the animal and money to cover expenses to a trusted friend or relative. In some states, you can establish a trust in your pet's name. Talk to your attorney about what arrangement is best for you and your pets.

You should keep a copy of the file on hand in case you ever need to be evacuated with your pet. And be sure to trade copies with the person you'll be counting on to rescue your pet should you ever not be able to.

Once you have all the arrangements made, make up a card for your wallet. On it, you should note that you have pets, how many and what kind, and the names and numbers of the people you have designated to care for them should you become suddenly unable to.

When I was facing major surgery last year, I put such a folder together for each of my pets, complete with arrangements for the worst-case scenario. I surprised myself in that I didn't find the exercise frightening or depressing. On the contrary, I found great peace in knowing that if something happened to me, my beloved pets would be taken care of.

THE SCOOP

Ants in the cat dish? Although you can buy any of several dishes designed to keep ants out, you can also get rid of the problem by using supplies you already have around the house. To start with, remove the dishes and wipe down the area with a solution that's three-quarters water and one-quarter white vinegar, with a teaspoon of liquid dish soap added. (If you feed your cat on a porch, spray the whole area with the solution.)

Select a bowl that's just slightly larger than the one in which your cat usually finds his food. Fill the larger bowl halfway with water. Put food in the other dish, and lower it gently into the water-filled dish to create a "moat." And clean both dishes after your cat has eaten.

PETS ON THE WEB

While many dogs are couch potatoes, there are a few who spend their lives happily keeping up with their active owners. If you and your pup are always on the go, you'll want to visit YourActivePet.com. The online store offers gear for the great outdoors, such as backpacks, lifejackets and reflective vests, along with specialized leashes, collars, and containers for water and food.

The site also has the stuff you need to get started in the sport of skijoring, an increasingly popular activity that's simply cross-country skiing assisted by dogs in harness. Don't live in snow country? Don't worry: The skijoring gear works with inline skates, too.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I read your article on pets being a long-term commitment with some interest, since it affects me. I am now 71 and have five dog companions, all rescues of one kind or another.

I do not think the age of the adopter should necessarily be a factor when looking for a companion animal. The important thing is to make sure, as I did, that one of my large family would take in the dogs (and my cat) if this became necessary.

I really do not agree that we oldies should be discouraged from adopting, and thereby not only losing the companionship and love that an animal can give, but also denying a good home to that particular animal.

Perhaps older adopters could be encouraged to consider an older pet, of which there are many in the animal shelters, just waiting for a home and love, and probably more suitable so far as lifestyle is concerned. Perhaps you will adjust your feelings on this? -- M.G., via e-mail

A: There's nothing to adjust; you and I are in complete agreement. Pets are important for older people, and older people are good for pets.

The people I was thinking about when I wrote that column are those who buy pets on an impulse. For many of these people, the tolerance for an animal wears off at the same time the baby cuteness does. The shelters are full of such pets, half-grown, untrained, and hoping for a second chance.

It doesn't matter how old you are, as long as you think about where you'll be for your pet's life. That doesn't mean that if there's a possibility of a pet outliving you that you shouldn't get one. But it does mean that you need to give some thought to what will happen to them if you go.

Your final point is on the money: Pets who are in their middle or senior years are perfect for older people. These animals are past their youthful exuberance and are happy to live a more sedate life.

Q: My new kitten appears to have ear mites. What can I do? -- H.W., via e-mail

A: Ear mites are tiny parasites that look like crabs and feed off the fluids and dead tissue of the ear canal. These pests are highly contagious and consequently very common, especially in kittens and young cats. They are more than an unsightly annoyance: If left untreated, ear mites can contribute to infections, wax buildup and, occasionally, deafness.

Your kitten needs to see a veterinarian to have the ears flushed out and for you to get medication to treat the parasites at home. The follow-up care is essential if you're to eliminate these pests.

Many people make the mistake of stopping the medication as soon as the kitten or cat stops scratching. It's important to apply the medication as directed for as long as your veterinarian recommends -– usually a month, to cover the entire life cycle of the mites and prevent a reinfestation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600