The problem with placing adult cats, says a friend of mine who has found homes for dozens of them, is that everyone who wants a cat usually has one already. And many of the people who are in the market for a cat would rather start with a kitten.

That's a shame on both counts. First, because cats often enjoy the company of others of their own kind, especially if left alone inside all day while the family is at work or school. As for kittens, well, what's not to love? But an adult cat can often ease into a household more quickly, and without the sometimes over-the-top behavior of an energetic youngster.

The first step to placing an adult cat may be convincing prospective owners that two cats are better than one, and better yet if the second is a loving adult. Is it a hard sell? It can be, as any shelter manager can attest: Adult cats have low adoption rates when compared to kittens and even to adult dogs. But if you've ended up with an extra adult cat -- a stray perhaps, or a cat left behind by the death of a friend or relative -- you don't have to write off the animal as a lost cause. If you're patient and persistent, you'll likely find a home. Here are some tips to follow:

-- Do everything you can to make the animal more adoptable. The pet has a better chance for adoption if her vaccinations are current, she uses her litter box reliably, and she's altered.

-- Don't lie about the pet's problems or why she's being placed. Although finding a new home for a pet with problems takes longer, you can usually still do so. But the person who gets such a pet without warning is likely to bring her back, take her to a shelter or give her away -- maybe to a horrible situation.

-- Spread the news. Make up fliers, and take out an ad in your newspaper and on the Internet. Post the fliers everywhere you can: bulletin boards at work, pet-supply stores and your veterinarian's office. Give some to your friends and family to post where they work, too. Talk up the cat (at least briefly) with everyone you know. Even people who don't like cats (or don't want one) may know someone who is looking for a pet. The more exposure you can get, the better. If a thousand people hear or read about the animal, you probably will get no interest from 999, but you need only one person to provide a good home for the cat. And that's the one you need to reach.

-- Ask lots of questions and verify that the answers are true. Don't forget to ask prospective adopters whether they've had pets before and what happened to them. Make sure you're dealing with people who realize that owning a pet is a long-term commitment. The person who has had a lot of pets who disappeared, died young or were given away is probably not your best choice. My favorite question: Who's your veterinarian? Someone who cannot at least name a vet or a veterinary hospital may have pets who don't go there very often.

Above all, don't give up! It may take weeks to find the right home for a pet, but it's always worth the time it may take to get it right. The goal here is not to "get rid of" an animal, but to find a loving, caring and, most of all, permanent home for a pet who needs one. They're out there, and if you keep looking you'll likely find the home that's just right for the cat you're trying to help.

THE SCOOP

The Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, sprawled across a couple of thousand acres outside of the southern Utah town of Kanab, has done as much as any organization to change the way unwanted animals are handled. Best Friends harbors some 2,000 animals, not only dogs and cats but also horses, rabbits, raptors and more, and is a national leader in the so-called "no-kill" movement, which seeks the end to the euthanasia of any adoptable pets.

Want to learn more? Check out Samantha Glen's "Best Friends: The True Story of the World's Most Beloved Animal Sanctuary" ($15; Kensington Publishing). The book is a wonderful read, combining the history of a small group of visionary people with the stories of the animals they've saved. If you can't go to Best Friends (and as someone who has been there, I can tell you it's well worth the trip), Glen's heartwarming book is the next best thing. You can also visit the group's Web site, at www.bestfriends.org.

PETS ON THE WEB

The College of Veterinary Medicine at Washington State University has put together a nifty site that explores the anatomy of dogs and cats. "Anatomy for the Pet Owner" (www.vetmed.wsu.edu/ClientED/anatomy/) offers fairly detailed drawings that show the skeletal and organ systems, with the ability to click on each separate area to gain access to more information. See the liver in all its detail, right down to the quadrate lobe! The site is easy to navigate and fun to play with. For any parent with a budding veterinarian in the family, this site is certainly one to share.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have two cats, 6 years old. We are expecting our first child in about three months. Our cats are primarily indoor cats. We let them outside during the daytime on the weekends when we are home.

We will be purchasing and assembling a crib in a couple of months, and I am hoping that you will have some suggestions for training our cats to stay out of the crib. -- P.S., via e-mail

A: Congratulations on the addition to your family. And good for you for not following the too-common advice to find new homes for your pets when you became pregnant. Too many pets become homeless on the recommendations of well-meaning but misinformed friends, relatives and even physicians.

The good news is that in most cases cats and children will co-exist happily, but getting to that point does require a modicum of common sense on your part. Cats don't smother babies, despite old wives' tales to the contrary, but it's still essential to keep your pets and your infant child apart unless you're supervising.

You cannot really train a cat to stay out of the crib, so it's better to put up a barrier to keep your pets out if you're not watching. A common bit of advice is to replace the nursery door with a screen door. It's not hard to do, and will allow you to hear your baby while keeping the cats away from the crib.

Cats sometimes forget their house manners at times of household stress or change. If your cats start forgetting where the litter box is once the baby arrives, don't punish them. Stressing them further will only make the situation worse. Instead, ease them into new routines by keeping them in a room away from all the hubbub for a couple of weeks -- a spare bedroom is ideal. Be sure to provide them with clean litter boxes, food, water, and a scratching post or cat tree, and don't forget to carve some time out of your new routine to reassure them with praise, petting and play.

Pets are good for children! If you gently introduce your pets to the idea of having a new "sibling," your child will be well-positioned to learn the lessons of responsibility and compassion that pets are so good at teaching.

Q: Would you please remind dog owners that having your dog run with you on your bike or inline skates in 90-degree heat puts a strain on the animals? I see many dogs running alongside a bicyclist who is staying cool by moving, while the dogs are panting and looking very hot. -- M.B., via e-mail

A: Thank you for the excellent reminder. I find that spring and fall are often more of a heat hazard to dogs than summer is. That's because people understand not to run their dogs in extreme heat, but often don't see the danger in the warmth of a lovely spring or fall day.

Most dogs need more exercise then they get, and walking, running, biking or skating with a pet is a great way to go. Be sure, though, to restrict such activities to the cool hours of early morning, and watch your pet for signs of heat stress, including glassy eyes and rapid panting. At the first sign of a problem, end the outing and get your pet into a cool place to rest, with plenty of water.

Another safety tip involves not the dogs, but the people. I've seen quite a few people skating with dogs who could generously be described as being barely under control. Before you get up to speed with your dog, be sure his leash manners are solid (get a trainer's help if necessary), and don't forget protective gear for yourself -- helmet and pads are a must. A big dog can pull someone on inline skates along at a very fast clip, and a fall at such a speed can be very nasty indeed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The recent terrorist attacks have tragically changed the lives of many four-legged family members as well as the human ones. In the areas surrounding New York City and Washington, D.C., many pets were left behind on the morning of Sept. 11 by people who'll never come home again.

While the scale of the tragedies has brought home the point with brutal force, the truth is that every day we all face the possibility of disaster. Every day could be the one in which your own pets suddenly lose a loving caretaker.

No one wants to think about such things, but always there exists a chance, however remote, that you could suddenly become unable to care for your pet because of an illness or accident. Depending on the circumstances, the situation may be temporary, or your pets may need a new home for good. Either way, you need to be sure your pets are covered.

The first step is to make sure someone (or a couple of people, better yet) know that you have pets, where they are and how to care for them. Trade information with other pet-keeping friends, family or neighbors, along with the keys to each other's homes.

I like to recommend making a file with all your pet's information. Pictures and a physical description of your pet are a good place to start. Add to the folder an overview of your pet's medical records, including proof of altering and dates of vaccinations. Instructions for any medications should include not only the dosage and where to find the bottle, but also whatever method you use to entice your pet to swallow the pill.

Don't forget a copy of your pet's license, as well as the name, address and phone number of the animal's veterinarian. Write down some information about the tricks and commands your pet knows, as well as any unique personality quirks, such as a favorite spot to be petted.

As part of your preparation, talk to your veterinarian about setting up plans for emergency care or boarding. If you're a long-term client who always pays bills promptly, you should have no problem getting your veterinarian to agree to run a tab if you cannot be reached immediately. I have the arrangement with my veterinarian that if anyone -- absolutely anyone -- comes in with one of my animals, the doctor will take the pet in and do what needs to be done. And he knows that either I or my heirs will settle the bill later. If you are able to make such arrangements, put those details in the folder, too.

The final bit of information for the folder should concern arrangements for your pet if you never come home again. While no one likes to think about this possibility, you have a responsibility to your pets to provide for them after your death. You cannot leave money directly to an animal, but you can leave the animal and money to cover expenses to a trusted friend or relative. In some states, you can establish a trust in your pet's name. Talk to your attorney about what arrangement is best for you and your pets.

You should keep a copy of the file on hand in case you ever need to be evacuated with your pet. And be sure to trade copies with the person you'll be counting on to rescue your pet should you ever not be able to.

Once you have all the arrangements made, make up a card for your wallet. On it, you should note that you have pets, how many and what kind, and the names and numbers of the people you have designated to care for them should you become suddenly unable to.

When I was facing major surgery last year, I put such a folder together for each of my pets, complete with arrangements for the worst-case scenario. I surprised myself in that I didn't find the exercise frightening or depressing. On the contrary, I found great peace in knowing that if something happened to me, my beloved pets would be taken care of.

THE SCOOP

Ants in the cat dish? Although you can buy any of several dishes designed to keep ants out, you can also get rid of the problem by using supplies you already have around the house. To start with, remove the dishes and wipe down the area with a solution that's three-quarters water and one-quarter white vinegar, with a teaspoon of liquid dish soap added. (If you feed your cat on a porch, spray the whole area with the solution.)

Select a bowl that's just slightly larger than the one in which your cat usually finds his food. Fill the larger bowl halfway with water. Put food in the other dish, and lower it gently into the water-filled dish to create a "moat." And clean both dishes after your cat has eaten.

PETS ON THE WEB

While many dogs are couch potatoes, there are a few who spend their lives happily keeping up with their active owners. If you and your pup are always on the go, you'll want to visit YourActivePet.com. The online store offers gear for the great outdoors, such as backpacks, lifejackets and reflective vests, along with specialized leashes, collars, and containers for water and food.

The site also has the stuff you need to get started in the sport of skijoring, an increasingly popular activity that's simply cross-country skiing assisted by dogs in harness. Don't live in snow country? Don't worry: The skijoring gear works with inline skates, too.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I read your article on pets being a long-term commitment with some interest, since it affects me. I am now 71 and have five dog companions, all rescues of one kind or another.

I do not think the age of the adopter should necessarily be a factor when looking for a companion animal. The important thing is to make sure, as I did, that one of my large family would take in the dogs (and my cat) if this became necessary.

I really do not agree that we oldies should be discouraged from adopting, and thereby not only losing the companionship and love that an animal can give, but also denying a good home to that particular animal.

Perhaps older adopters could be encouraged to consider an older pet, of which there are many in the animal shelters, just waiting for a home and love, and probably more suitable so far as lifestyle is concerned. Perhaps you will adjust your feelings on this? -- M.G., via e-mail

A: There's nothing to adjust; you and I are in complete agreement. Pets are important for older people, and older people are good for pets.

The people I was thinking about when I wrote that column are those who buy pets on an impulse. For many of these people, the tolerance for an animal wears off at the same time the baby cuteness does. The shelters are full of such pets, half-grown, untrained, and hoping for a second chance.

It doesn't matter how old you are, as long as you think about where you'll be for your pet's life. That doesn't mean that if there's a possibility of a pet outliving you that you shouldn't get one. But it does mean that you need to give some thought to what will happen to them if you go.

Your final point is on the money: Pets who are in their middle or senior years are perfect for older people. These animals are past their youthful exuberance and are happy to live a more sedate life.

Q: My new kitten appears to have ear mites. What can I do? -- H.W., via e-mail

A: Ear mites are tiny parasites that look like crabs and feed off the fluids and dead tissue of the ear canal. These pests are highly contagious and consequently very common, especially in kittens and young cats. They are more than an unsightly annoyance: If left untreated, ear mites can contribute to infections, wax buildup and, occasionally, deafness.

Your kitten needs to see a veterinarian to have the ears flushed out and for you to get medication to treat the parasites at home. The follow-up care is essential if you're to eliminate these pests.

Many people make the mistake of stopping the medication as soon as the kitten or cat stops scratching. It's important to apply the medication as directed for as long as your veterinarian recommends -– usually a month, to cover the entire life cycle of the mites and prevent a reinfestation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Poor-quality purebreds are everywhere: Vicious golden retrievers, crippled German shepherds and deaf Dalmatians -- virtually every breed has some kind of genetic problem that reputable, knowledgeable breeders are working to eliminate.

Defective dogs most often come from two kinds of breeders: the clueless or the careless. The first group is blissfully ignorant of the potential for congenital problems and the importance of socialization; the second group knows full well and could not care less.

You can get a great pet and a great deal by working with a shelter or rescue group. But if you simply must have a purebred puppy, here are some questions to ask a breeder.

-- What are the congenital defects in this breed? The breeder who says "none" or "I don't know" is to be avoided. That's a person who's not screening for what she doesn't know about, and you don't want to pay the price for her ignorance.

A good breeder tells you every remotely possible problem in the breed, from droopy eyelids to deafness to epilepsy.

-- What steps have you taken to decrease defects in your dogs? You want to hear words like "screened" and "tested" and "certified."

In breeds with the potential for hip dysplasia - that's almost every large breed -- look for PennHIP or Orthopedic Foundation for Animals certification. These are expert, unbiased evaluators who know exactly what to look for. Insist on documentation on both parents. And their parents, too.

-- Do you have the parents on site? May I see them? This is a bit of a trick question. You should always be able to see the mother -- unless she died giving birth -- but reputable breeders often don't have the father on hand. That's because the best match for any particular dog may be owned by another breeder, and the female was sent away for breeding.

As for the mother, she may be a little anxious with strangers around her puppies, but on her own you want to see a well-socialized, calm and well-mannered dog. So, too, should be the rest of the breeder's dogs. If you don't like the temperaments of a breeder's grown dogs, what makes you think you'll get a good temperament in one of the puppies?

-- What are the good and bad points of the parents, and what titles do they have? You may be looking for a pet-quality purebred, but you still want to buy from someone who knows what top-quality examples of the breed are -- and uses such animals in a breeding program. You want to see show and working titles all over that pedigree.

It doesn't matter if you go home and throw that fine pedigree in a drawer. Recent titles on both sides of a pedigree are the sign of a breeder who's making a good-faith effort to produce healthy dogs who conform to the breed standard.

-- Where were these puppies raised? How have you socialized them? "In the house" is the best answer to the first question. You want a puppy who knows what the dishwasher sounds like, whom you don't have to peel off the ceiling when a pan drops, who has set a paw on linoleum, carpet and tile.

Environmental socialization is important, but so, too, is the intentional kind. The best breeders make sure puppies have been handled by adults of both genders and by children.

-- What guarantees do you provide? You want to see a contract explaining the breeder's responsibilities should the puppy develop a congenital ailment. In most cases, such contracts state either replacement with a new puppy or refunding of your purchase price.

The contract also states your responsibilities, such as neutering your pet. You may also be required to return the dog to the breeder if you can no longer keep him. Such language is the sign of a concerned and responsible breeder.

Read and discuss the paperwork with the breeder. The best breeders offer contracts that protect not only the buyer and seller, but also the most vulnerable part of the transaction: the puppy.

THE SCOOP

New feathers, often called blood feathers, can be identified by their waxy sheathes and are well-endowed with a blood supply to support growth. In a healthy bird, a broken blood feather is not a cause for alarm, despite popular opinion - the blood will clot and the bleeding will stop. If your bird breaks a blood feather, don't panic. It's likely not worth worrying about. If the bleeding doesn't resolve itself quickly, or if your bird keeps re-injuring the area, call an avian veterinarian for guidance.

PETS ON THE WEB

With the recent tragedies, we are all painfully aware of the contributions of rescue workers, who risk their lives (and sometimes lose them) to help others in time of trouble. Specially trained dogs are always a part of any rescue organization, with an astonishing record of finding people alive when all hope seems gone. The National Association for Search and Rescue (www.nasar.org) is an umbrella group of all who put their lives on the line in a disaster. The Web site has a section on the work of rescue dogs, as well as links to regional rescue organizations.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I could not believe that you advised cat owners to put a collar on their cat or get a microchip. How about keeping them home? I am sick and tired of cats pooping in the back yard, screaming all night and fighting.

If a dog were to get in someone's yard and bark all night and make a mess, the pound would be called immediately. What makes you think a cat is any different? If a person is going to get a cat, then the animal should be kept indoors, or the owner should buy 10 acres so it can roam.

You seem to be ignorant of the problems cats cause, and I haven't even addressed their filthy mouths that cause infections and swelling when they bite, especially in children. My son had to be hospitalized from a cat bite when he tried to get one out from under the bushes. Of course, the cat was just roaming the neighborhood, as you advise.

A person like you shouldn't have a column. You're not responsible enough to check the facts before you write, and you write based on your own personal preference. -- J.R., via e-mail

A: As longtime readers well know, my personal preference is exactly the same as yours: Cats should not be left to roam, both for their own safety and out of consideration for neighbors. Cats can indeed live happy lives indoors, especially if given access to a screened-in porch, or a yard equipped with netting to keep cats contained.

But I also recognize that in many places, it's perfectly legal to let cats roam, and even in those areas with "leash laws" on the books for cats, enforcement is nonexistent. And many people are convinced that their cats are happier roaming.

The reality is that cats will always roam. My point in writing the column is that if the animals are wearing collars and tags, there is a chance that they will make it home if lost.

I need to make a couple more points. If cats are spayed and neutered, they won't be screaming in the night for mates and fighting will be greatly reduced.

As for cat bites, the numbers are insignificant compared to the national figures for dog bites. That said, children must be taught to leave strange animals alone, and any animal bite should be treated promptly by a medical professional.

Q: I have a Senegal parrot, and I'm thinking about purchasing another one. Is there a simple way to tell the males from the females? -- E.M., via e-mail

A: The Senegal is one of the best pet parrots you can choose, a small bird not much larger than a cockatiel with a very easygoing temperament. This species is usually not much of a talker, but it's also not much of a screamer. And a well-socialized bird from a reputable source will be a playful and affectionate companion.

There's not much difference in temperament between males and females, and either should make a fine pet. While many parrots show no difference in markings between male and female, the Senegal can occasionally be visually sexed. While it's not considered all that reliable a method of determination, some experts say that birds with a shorter "V" in the green marking of the chest are males; in females the V drops down lower, almost to a point between the legs.

For a definitive answer, though, you'll have to consult an avian veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600