The recent terrorist attacks have tragically changed the lives of many four-legged family members as well as the human ones. In the areas surrounding New York City and Washington, D.C., many pets were left behind on the morning of Sept. 11 by people who'll never come home again.

While the scale of the tragedies has brought home the point with brutal force, the truth is that every day we all face the possibility of disaster. Every day could be the one in which your own pets suddenly lose a loving caretaker.

No one wants to think about such things, but always there exists a chance, however remote, that you could suddenly become unable to care for your pet because of an illness or accident. Depending on the circumstances, the situation may be temporary, or your pets may need a new home for good. Either way, you need to be sure your pets are covered.

The first step is to make sure someone (or a couple of people, better yet) know that you have pets, where they are and how to care for them. Trade information with other pet-keeping friends, family or neighbors, along with the keys to each other's homes.

I like to recommend making a file with all your pet's information. Pictures and a physical description of your pet are a good place to start. Add to the folder an overview of your pet's medical records, including proof of altering and dates of vaccinations. Instructions for any medications should include not only the dosage and where to find the bottle, but also whatever method you use to entice your pet to swallow the pill.

Don't forget a copy of your pet's license, as well as the name, address and phone number of the animal's veterinarian. Write down some information about the tricks and commands your pet knows, as well as any unique personality quirks, such as a favorite spot to be petted.

As part of your preparation, talk to your veterinarian about setting up plans for emergency care or boarding. If you're a long-term client who always pays bills promptly, you should have no problem getting your veterinarian to agree to run a tab if you cannot be reached immediately. I have the arrangement with my veterinarian that if anyone -- absolutely anyone -- comes in with one of my animals, the doctor will take the pet in and do what needs to be done. And he knows that either I or my heirs will settle the bill later. If you are able to make such arrangements, put those details in the folder, too.

The final bit of information for the folder should concern arrangements for your pet if you never come home again. While no one likes to think about this possibility, you have a responsibility to your pets to provide for them after your death. You cannot leave money directly to an animal, but you can leave the animal and money to cover expenses to a trusted friend or relative. In some states, you can establish a trust in your pet's name. Talk to your attorney about what arrangement is best for you and your pets.

You should keep a copy of the file on hand in case you ever need to be evacuated with your pet. And be sure to trade copies with the person you'll be counting on to rescue your pet should you ever not be able to.

Once you have all the arrangements made, make up a card for your wallet. On it, you should note that you have pets, how many and what kind, and the names and numbers of the people you have designated to care for them should you become suddenly unable to.

When I was facing major surgery last year, I put such a folder together for each of my pets, complete with arrangements for the worst-case scenario. I surprised myself in that I didn't find the exercise frightening or depressing. On the contrary, I found great peace in knowing that if something happened to me, my beloved pets would be taken care of.

THE SCOOP

Ants in the cat dish? Although you can buy any of several dishes designed to keep ants out, you can also get rid of the problem by using supplies you already have around the house. To start with, remove the dishes and wipe down the area with a solution that's three-quarters water and one-quarter white vinegar, with a teaspoon of liquid dish soap added. (If you feed your cat on a porch, spray the whole area with the solution.)

Select a bowl that's just slightly larger than the one in which your cat usually finds his food. Fill the larger bowl halfway with water. Put food in the other dish, and lower it gently into the water-filled dish to create a "moat." And clean both dishes after your cat has eaten.

PETS ON THE WEB

While many dogs are couch potatoes, there are a few who spend their lives happily keeping up with their active owners. If you and your pup are always on the go, you'll want to visit YourActivePet.com. The online store offers gear for the great outdoors, such as backpacks, lifejackets and reflective vests, along with specialized leashes, collars, and containers for water and food.

The site also has the stuff you need to get started in the sport of skijoring, an increasingly popular activity that's simply cross-country skiing assisted by dogs in harness. Don't live in snow country? Don't worry: The skijoring gear works with inline skates, too.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I read your article on pets being a long-term commitment with some interest, since it affects me. I am now 71 and have five dog companions, all rescues of one kind or another.

I do not think the age of the adopter should necessarily be a factor when looking for a companion animal. The important thing is to make sure, as I did, that one of my large family would take in the dogs (and my cat) if this became necessary.

I really do not agree that we oldies should be discouraged from adopting, and thereby not only losing the companionship and love that an animal can give, but also denying a good home to that particular animal.

Perhaps older adopters could be encouraged to consider an older pet, of which there are many in the animal shelters, just waiting for a home and love, and probably more suitable so far as lifestyle is concerned. Perhaps you will adjust your feelings on this? -- M.G., via e-mail

A: There's nothing to adjust; you and I are in complete agreement. Pets are important for older people, and older people are good for pets.

The people I was thinking about when I wrote that column are those who buy pets on an impulse. For many of these people, the tolerance for an animal wears off at the same time the baby cuteness does. The shelters are full of such pets, half-grown, untrained, and hoping for a second chance.

It doesn't matter how old you are, as long as you think about where you'll be for your pet's life. That doesn't mean that if there's a possibility of a pet outliving you that you shouldn't get one. But it does mean that you need to give some thought to what will happen to them if you go.

Your final point is on the money: Pets who are in their middle or senior years are perfect for older people. These animals are past their youthful exuberance and are happy to live a more sedate life.

Q: My new kitten appears to have ear mites. What can I do? -- H.W., via e-mail

A: Ear mites are tiny parasites that look like crabs and feed off the fluids and dead tissue of the ear canal. These pests are highly contagious and consequently very common, especially in kittens and young cats. They are more than an unsightly annoyance: If left untreated, ear mites can contribute to infections, wax buildup and, occasionally, deafness.

Your kitten needs to see a veterinarian to have the ears flushed out and for you to get medication to treat the parasites at home. The follow-up care is essential if you're to eliminate these pests.

Many people make the mistake of stopping the medication as soon as the kitten or cat stops scratching. It's important to apply the medication as directed for as long as your veterinarian recommends -– usually a month, to cover the entire life cycle of the mites and prevent a reinfestation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Poor-quality purebreds are everywhere: Vicious golden retrievers, crippled German shepherds and deaf Dalmatians -- virtually every breed has some kind of genetic problem that reputable, knowledgeable breeders are working to eliminate.

Defective dogs most often come from two kinds of breeders: the clueless or the careless. The first group is blissfully ignorant of the potential for congenital problems and the importance of socialization; the second group knows full well and could not care less.

You can get a great pet and a great deal by working with a shelter or rescue group. But if you simply must have a purebred puppy, here are some questions to ask a breeder.

-- What are the congenital defects in this breed? The breeder who says "none" or "I don't know" is to be avoided. That's a person who's not screening for what she doesn't know about, and you don't want to pay the price for her ignorance.

A good breeder tells you every remotely possible problem in the breed, from droopy eyelids to deafness to epilepsy.

-- What steps have you taken to decrease defects in your dogs? You want to hear words like "screened" and "tested" and "certified."

In breeds with the potential for hip dysplasia - that's almost every large breed -- look for PennHIP or Orthopedic Foundation for Animals certification. These are expert, unbiased evaluators who know exactly what to look for. Insist on documentation on both parents. And their parents, too.

-- Do you have the parents on site? May I see them? This is a bit of a trick question. You should always be able to see the mother -- unless she died giving birth -- but reputable breeders often don't have the father on hand. That's because the best match for any particular dog may be owned by another breeder, and the female was sent away for breeding.

As for the mother, she may be a little anxious with strangers around her puppies, but on her own you want to see a well-socialized, calm and well-mannered dog. So, too, should be the rest of the breeder's dogs. If you don't like the temperaments of a breeder's grown dogs, what makes you think you'll get a good temperament in one of the puppies?

-- What are the good and bad points of the parents, and what titles do they have? You may be looking for a pet-quality purebred, but you still want to buy from someone who knows what top-quality examples of the breed are -- and uses such animals in a breeding program. You want to see show and working titles all over that pedigree.

It doesn't matter if you go home and throw that fine pedigree in a drawer. Recent titles on both sides of a pedigree are the sign of a breeder who's making a good-faith effort to produce healthy dogs who conform to the breed standard.

-- Where were these puppies raised? How have you socialized them? "In the house" is the best answer to the first question. You want a puppy who knows what the dishwasher sounds like, whom you don't have to peel off the ceiling when a pan drops, who has set a paw on linoleum, carpet and tile.

Environmental socialization is important, but so, too, is the intentional kind. The best breeders make sure puppies have been handled by adults of both genders and by children.

-- What guarantees do you provide? You want to see a contract explaining the breeder's responsibilities should the puppy develop a congenital ailment. In most cases, such contracts state either replacement with a new puppy or refunding of your purchase price.

The contract also states your responsibilities, such as neutering your pet. You may also be required to return the dog to the breeder if you can no longer keep him. Such language is the sign of a concerned and responsible breeder.

Read and discuss the paperwork with the breeder. The best breeders offer contracts that protect not only the buyer and seller, but also the most vulnerable part of the transaction: the puppy.

THE SCOOP

New feathers, often called blood feathers, can be identified by their waxy sheathes and are well-endowed with a blood supply to support growth. In a healthy bird, a broken blood feather is not a cause for alarm, despite popular opinion - the blood will clot and the bleeding will stop. If your bird breaks a blood feather, don't panic. It's likely not worth worrying about. If the bleeding doesn't resolve itself quickly, or if your bird keeps re-injuring the area, call an avian veterinarian for guidance.

PETS ON THE WEB

With the recent tragedies, we are all painfully aware of the contributions of rescue workers, who risk their lives (and sometimes lose them) to help others in time of trouble. Specially trained dogs are always a part of any rescue organization, with an astonishing record of finding people alive when all hope seems gone. The National Association for Search and Rescue (www.nasar.org) is an umbrella group of all who put their lives on the line in a disaster. The Web site has a section on the work of rescue dogs, as well as links to regional rescue organizations.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I could not believe that you advised cat owners to put a collar on their cat or get a microchip. How about keeping them home? I am sick and tired of cats pooping in the back yard, screaming all night and fighting.

If a dog were to get in someone's yard and bark all night and make a mess, the pound would be called immediately. What makes you think a cat is any different? If a person is going to get a cat, then the animal should be kept indoors, or the owner should buy 10 acres so it can roam.

You seem to be ignorant of the problems cats cause, and I haven't even addressed their filthy mouths that cause infections and swelling when they bite, especially in children. My son had to be hospitalized from a cat bite when he tried to get one out from under the bushes. Of course, the cat was just roaming the neighborhood, as you advise.

A person like you shouldn't have a column. You're not responsible enough to check the facts before you write, and you write based on your own personal preference. -- J.R., via e-mail

A: As longtime readers well know, my personal preference is exactly the same as yours: Cats should not be left to roam, both for their own safety and out of consideration for neighbors. Cats can indeed live happy lives indoors, especially if given access to a screened-in porch, or a yard equipped with netting to keep cats contained.

But I also recognize that in many places, it's perfectly legal to let cats roam, and even in those areas with "leash laws" on the books for cats, enforcement is nonexistent. And many people are convinced that their cats are happier roaming.

The reality is that cats will always roam. My point in writing the column is that if the animals are wearing collars and tags, there is a chance that they will make it home if lost.

I need to make a couple more points. If cats are spayed and neutered, they won't be screaming in the night for mates and fighting will be greatly reduced.

As for cat bites, the numbers are insignificant compared to the national figures for dog bites. That said, children must be taught to leave strange animals alone, and any animal bite should be treated promptly by a medical professional.

Q: I have a Senegal parrot, and I'm thinking about purchasing another one. Is there a simple way to tell the males from the females? -- E.M., via e-mail

A: The Senegal is one of the best pet parrots you can choose, a small bird not much larger than a cockatiel with a very easygoing temperament. This species is usually not much of a talker, but it's also not much of a screamer. And a well-socialized bird from a reputable source will be a playful and affectionate companion.

There's not much difference in temperament between males and females, and either should make a fine pet. While many parrots show no difference in markings between male and female, the Senegal can occasionally be visually sexed. While it's not considered all that reliable a method of determination, some experts say that birds with a shorter "V" in the green marking of the chest are males; in females the V drops down lower, almost to a point between the legs.

For a definitive answer, though, you'll have to consult an avian veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Bargain-hunting is a bad idea when it comes to buying a purebred puppy. Paying attention in any but the most cursory way to price is about the worst strategy I know of for determining the potential health and temperament of a dog.

"Cheap" puppies are no bargain, and some high-priced pups likewise come with no guarantee of health and good temperament. The best pet bargains of all can usually be found in a shelter, but for those who insist on a purebred puppy, finding a reputable breeder without regard to price is the best way to go.

Those who offer puppies at prices that seem too good to be true are most often casual breeders, the kind who usually don't concern themselves with such niceties as screening the parents for congenital defects, and who may not know enough about puppy development to ensure that the babies are well-socialized at critical stages.

Like many people, these casual breeders have the mistaken idea that registration from the American Kennel Club means a dog is of breedable quality. But even the AKC doesn't think so: In its own printed and online information, the organization cautions buyers that registration with the dominant breed registry in the United States is no guarantee of high quality.

When you're dealing with casual backyard breeders who don't know enough, or high-volume commercial breeders (also known as "puppy mills") who don't care enough, you put yourself at a higher risk of ending up with a dog whose physical and emotional problems could cost you a bundle -- and break your heart.

Casual breeders tend to be on the low end of the price scale, mostly because they haven't the overhead a reputable breeder does. The dogs they choose as parents generally come from other casual breeders, since reputable breeders usually sell pet-quality puppies with contracts that insist the animals be neutered. Casual breeders rarely spend the money a reputable breeder does to certify breeding stock that's free of such congenital defects as hip dysplasia, a crippling malady that can cost thousands to treat.

Casual breeders don't spend time and money training and showing the animals they hope to breed, and they don't compete with them in sports that prove the animal's intelligence, trainability and instincts. Finally, they rarely spend much money (if any) to acquire a mate for their female. It's usually a friend's or neighbor's dog, which is a far cry from the choice a reputable breeder might make, sending a dog to the best mate available, even if he's on the other side of the country, or even if it will cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars for artificial insemination.

And what about commercial breeders, who often get top dollar for their pups? Organizations such as the AKC and the Humane Society of the United States, as well as any number of reputable news organizations, have documented over the years that large-scale breeders too often don't concern themselves with a pup's health and temperament, either. In many of these operations, puppies are raised like livestock in outdoor enclosures with little human contact. (And too often under conditions that would make any animal lover shudder with horror.).

To be fair, I know of people who have ended up with purebred puppies from both casual and commercial breeders and have had nothing but delight from their pets. Others have ended up with problem pups from breeders who seem to do everything right. That's because animals are individuals. Just as with people, a pup from good circumstances raised with all the advantages sometimes turns out to be a problem, while a pup who has to struggle against the odds sometimes turns out splendidly.

In general, though, you're much better off being an informed consumer when it comes to choosing a purebred puppy. It's all about getting the odds in your favor, and if you have your heart set on a purebred puppy, you need to realize that the odds of ending up with a healthy, emotionally stable dog are much better when you buy from a reputable breeder.

Next week, I'll explain how to evaluate a breeder, along with offering some alternatives for finding purebreds who'll fit your budget -- and not break your bank account and heart later.

PETS ON THE WEB

Do you have any recourse when you buy a puppy who turns out to be sick? In some states, you do. Thanks to the increasing popularity of "puppy lemon laws," you can in some cases get money to cover veterinary expenses, or be given the option of exchanging or returning the puppy. Mary Randolph's book "Dog Law" (Nolo Press, $14.95) covers this topic expertly, and an excerpt from this wonderful book appears on the publisher's Web site (www.nolo.com/encyclopedia/articles/np/nn179.html). It's well worth a read.

THE SCOOP

Newspapers are perfectly safe for lining the cages of birds and small pets. While some pet lovers worry about the ink on the paper, veterinarians who deal with birds and other small pets report seeing no problems with animals who spend their lives in close proximity to old newspapers. Some do recommend sticking with black-and-white papers, however, and skipping those pages with color inks, or those printed in color on glossier paper.

If you want to be completely ink-free, check with your local newspaper. Many sell the ends of the big rolls of paper that go onto the presses. This blank newsprint is great for lining cages and also quite handy for children's art projects. And best of all: Newsprint roll ends can usually be had on the cheap!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I live in Northern Ireland, and I have a friend in Michigan who just got an 8-week-old kitten. She is going to get it declawed, which is something I am strongly opposed to.

I feel it is barbaric and one of the most cruel things you can do to a cat. However, she will not listen to me, and is determined to go ahead and get it done.

How can I get her to stop? The more I think about it the madder I get. She is acting on the advice of a veterinarian, and she will not listen when I say all he is interested in is the money. What can I do? -- S.M., via e-mail

A: Debarking and declawing are procedures that are common in the United States but are widely condemned in many European countries.

You may take some solace in the fact that here in the states, many animal-welfare organizations are as appalled at these procedures as you are and work to educate pet lovers that such operations are unnecessary in most cases. Likewise, many veterinarians refuse to do them on ethical grounds.

But there are two sides to every issue. For some pets, solving a behavior problem surgically is all that stands between them and homelessness. As a pragmatist, I would rather see a pet declawed than euthanized, and in this opinion I am joined by many veterinarians. It's unfair to label as greedy those practitioners who do these surgeries.

I am, though, uncomfortable enough with declawing and debarking to consider the measures as last-ditch solutions to behavior problems, not as pre-emptive strikes. There's no reason to declaw an 8-week-old kitten, since a cat this young can be trained to use a scratching post.

Still, the decision is your friend's, and she has made it. There's not much else you can do.

Q: I am interested in positive reinforcement training using a clicker, but I have not been able to find a clicker to purchase. I went to a pet-supply store, some local toy stores and a couple of novelty stores. Any suggestions? -- J.M., via e-mail

A: DogWise has a complete selection of materials for positive-reinforcement training, including clickers, videos and books. You can access the company's offerings on the Internet at www.dogwise.com, or by calling 1-800-776-2665.

If you're looking for classes in clicker training, your best bet is to check the membership listings of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.com. Although not all members are clicker trainers, a good percentage of them are. Check out those in your area, and call each for details.

The APDT Web site also offers a list of recommended books and videos on positive-reinforcement dog training, as well as tips on finding a trainer who works with these methods.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600