Bargain-hunting is a bad idea when it comes to buying a purebred puppy. Paying attention in any but the most cursory way to price is about the worst strategy I know of for determining the potential health and temperament of a dog.

"Cheap" puppies are no bargain, and some high-priced pups likewise come with no guarantee of health and good temperament. The best pet bargains of all can usually be found in a shelter, but for those who insist on a purebred puppy, finding a reputable breeder without regard to price is the best way to go.

Those who offer puppies at prices that seem too good to be true are most often casual breeders, the kind who usually don't concern themselves with such niceties as screening the parents for congenital defects, and who may not know enough about puppy development to ensure that the babies are well-socialized at critical stages.

Like many people, these casual breeders have the mistaken idea that registration from the American Kennel Club means a dog is of breedable quality. But even the AKC doesn't think so: In its own printed and online information, the organization cautions buyers that registration with the dominant breed registry in the United States is no guarantee of high quality.

When you're dealing with casual backyard breeders who don't know enough, or high-volume commercial breeders (also known as "puppy mills") who don't care enough, you put yourself at a higher risk of ending up with a dog whose physical and emotional problems could cost you a bundle -- and break your heart.

Casual breeders tend to be on the low end of the price scale, mostly because they haven't the overhead a reputable breeder does. The dogs they choose as parents generally come from other casual breeders, since reputable breeders usually sell pet-quality puppies with contracts that insist the animals be neutered. Casual breeders rarely spend the money a reputable breeder does to certify breeding stock that's free of such congenital defects as hip dysplasia, a crippling malady that can cost thousands to treat.

Casual breeders don't spend time and money training and showing the animals they hope to breed, and they don't compete with them in sports that prove the animal's intelligence, trainability and instincts. Finally, they rarely spend much money (if any) to acquire a mate for their female. It's usually a friend's or neighbor's dog, which is a far cry from the choice a reputable breeder might make, sending a dog to the best mate available, even if he's on the other side of the country, or even if it will cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars for artificial insemination.

And what about commercial breeders, who often get top dollar for their pups? Organizations such as the AKC and the Humane Society of the United States, as well as any number of reputable news organizations, have documented over the years that large-scale breeders too often don't concern themselves with a pup's health and temperament, either. In many of these operations, puppies are raised like livestock in outdoor enclosures with little human contact. (And too often under conditions that would make any animal lover shudder with horror.).

To be fair, I know of people who have ended up with purebred puppies from both casual and commercial breeders and have had nothing but delight from their pets. Others have ended up with problem pups from breeders who seem to do everything right. That's because animals are individuals. Just as with people, a pup from good circumstances raised with all the advantages sometimes turns out to be a problem, while a pup who has to struggle against the odds sometimes turns out splendidly.

In general, though, you're much better off being an informed consumer when it comes to choosing a purebred puppy. It's all about getting the odds in your favor, and if you have your heart set on a purebred puppy, you need to realize that the odds of ending up with a healthy, emotionally stable dog are much better when you buy from a reputable breeder.

Next week, I'll explain how to evaluate a breeder, along with offering some alternatives for finding purebreds who'll fit your budget -- and not break your bank account and heart later.

PETS ON THE WEB

Do you have any recourse when you buy a puppy who turns out to be sick? In some states, you do. Thanks to the increasing popularity of "puppy lemon laws," you can in some cases get money to cover veterinary expenses, or be given the option of exchanging or returning the puppy. Mary Randolph's book "Dog Law" (Nolo Press, $14.95) covers this topic expertly, and an excerpt from this wonderful book appears on the publisher's Web site (www.nolo.com/encyclopedia/articles/np/nn179.html). It's well worth a read.

THE SCOOP

Newspapers are perfectly safe for lining the cages of birds and small pets. While some pet lovers worry about the ink on the paper, veterinarians who deal with birds and other small pets report seeing no problems with animals who spend their lives in close proximity to old newspapers. Some do recommend sticking with black-and-white papers, however, and skipping those pages with color inks, or those printed in color on glossier paper.

If you want to be completely ink-free, check with your local newspaper. Many sell the ends of the big rolls of paper that go onto the presses. This blank newsprint is great for lining cages and also quite handy for children's art projects. And best of all: Newsprint roll ends can usually be had on the cheap!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I live in Northern Ireland, and I have a friend in Michigan who just got an 8-week-old kitten. She is going to get it declawed, which is something I am strongly opposed to.

I feel it is barbaric and one of the most cruel things you can do to a cat. However, she will not listen to me, and is determined to go ahead and get it done.

How can I get her to stop? The more I think about it the madder I get. She is acting on the advice of a veterinarian, and she will not listen when I say all he is interested in is the money. What can I do? -- S.M., via e-mail

A: Debarking and declawing are procedures that are common in the United States but are widely condemned in many European countries.

You may take some solace in the fact that here in the states, many animal-welfare organizations are as appalled at these procedures as you are and work to educate pet lovers that such operations are unnecessary in most cases. Likewise, many veterinarians refuse to do them on ethical grounds.

But there are two sides to every issue. For some pets, solving a behavior problem surgically is all that stands between them and homelessness. As a pragmatist, I would rather see a pet declawed than euthanized, and in this opinion I am joined by many veterinarians. It's unfair to label as greedy those practitioners who do these surgeries.

I am, though, uncomfortable enough with declawing and debarking to consider the measures as last-ditch solutions to behavior problems, not as pre-emptive strikes. There's no reason to declaw an 8-week-old kitten, since a cat this young can be trained to use a scratching post.

Still, the decision is your friend's, and she has made it. There's not much else you can do.

Q: I am interested in positive reinforcement training using a clicker, but I have not been able to find a clicker to purchase. I went to a pet-supply store, some local toy stores and a couple of novelty stores. Any suggestions? -- J.M., via e-mail

A: DogWise has a complete selection of materials for positive-reinforcement training, including clickers, videos and books. You can access the company's offerings on the Internet at www.dogwise.com, or by calling 1-800-776-2665.

If you're looking for classes in clicker training, your best bet is to check the membership listings of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.com. Although not all members are clicker trainers, a good percentage of them are. Check out those in your area, and call each for details.

The APDT Web site also offers a list of recommended books and videos on positive-reinforcement dog training, as well as tips on finding a trainer who works with these methods.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

On our way back from Florida to our home in California, the dogs and I stopped in Texas to visit with the college professor friend who had bred my youngest dog, Heather.

Mary has been a respected fancier for a couple of decades, breeding a carefully planned litter every couple of years, at most. Her dogs are among the very best of their breed, healthy and intelligent animals with honors galore, champions who also shine in obedience and agility competitions and at field trials. I was nervous about seeing her, because she is not shy with her opinions when something doesn't meet with her approval.

My fears were realized when she took one look at Heather, then cast a stern eye in my direction. "Gina," she said in a voice that surely instills terror in her economics students, "Heather is fat. This will not do."

And so, Heather's diet days began.

As a pudgy retriever, Heather was in good company. Obesity is as common in pets as it is in people, which means there are a lot of overweight animals around.

And just as with people, obesity is far more than an appearance issue. An overweight pet is prone to a host of related problems, including diabetes, joint, ligament and tendon problems, breathing difficulties and heart disease. Overweight cats can even develop skin problems from not being able to groom themselves properly. Pets do not feel the social stigma unfairly heaped on overweight people, but they certainly share the potential for shorter, more uncomfortable lives.

Is your pet overweight? Healthy pets should have some padding, but a little is plenty. Rub your hands over your pet's ribs. The skin should move easily back and forth, and you should be able to feel the ribs. Your pet should have a definable "waist" at the bottom of the rib cage, a small tuck-in at the stomach. Take a look from the side: If your pet looks pregnant, he's fat. From above, a bump out from the middle into an apple shape is equally bad news. And it's not just dogs and cats who can get in trouble: Birds can be obese, too, developing a thicker breast and even rolls of fat.

Crash diets aren't good for pets, especially not for fat cats, who can develop a fatal liver problem if forced to reduce too quickly. A pet doesn't put on weight overnight, and he shouldn't be forced to change course any more rapidly. What you'll need to do is change your pet's eating and exercise habits gradually.

The best place to start is with a trip to your veterinarian. You'll want to make sure your pet doesn't have any problems that might make any lifestyle changes difficult. Your vet can also suggest a food plan that might help. Carve some time out of your schedule to walk your dog or play with your cat -- three times a week, at least. Be sure to work in some aerobic exercise, anything that gets a cat or dog running. Birds can benefit from a curled-rope spring perch. They have to work to stay on them, decreasing boredom and increasing calorie burn.

Whatever food regimen you and your veterinarian decide on, be determined to stick to it. Get out of the habit of expressing your love for your pets by handing them treats. Keep the goodies to a minimum, and switch to a reduced-calorie treat, mini rice cakes or raw carrots.

Heather hasn't been happy with her new food regimen, but she dances with joy at her now-frequent runs alongside my bicycle. And after four months home, I can happily report that we could return to Texas without worry: The formerly fat Heather is now as lean as a marathoner.

PETS ON THE WEB

As the dominant registries of purebred dogs and cats in North America, the American Kennel Club and the Cat Fanciers' Association are understandably interested in legislation that might change the way pets are treated. The organizations issue updates on their Web sites to keep pet lovers informed about laws that might affect them at the national, state and local level. The AKC's legislative alert page (www.akc.org/love/dip/legislat/index.cfm) is the more comprehensive of the two sites, and is updated frequently. The CWA's site (www.cfainc.org/org/legal.html) has a few position statements and an e-mail contact for more information.

THE SCOOP

If your cat had an "oops" litter recently, don't delay when it comes to scheduling a spay for her. Cats can become pregnant as early as a week after delivering a litter, and certainly are ready to breed again when the kittens start to wean at the age of 3 weeks.

Many "oops" litters happen when a new pet owner doesn't pay attention to how quickly a kitten is maturing. It's not uncommon for a cat to get pregnant at 5 months of age or even younger. One accidental litter is bad enough with so many kittens desperate for homes. Don't let your cat surprise you twice: If your cat is a new mother, call the veterinarian today and get that spaying done.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I recently moved in with my significant other, and now my cat is urinating on the shower door. My lady friend is not "pet friendly " at all, and so I put the litter box in the garage, at her request. I installed a cat door between the house and the garage, and the cat knows how to use it. She still insists on urinating inside instead of going to the garage where the litter box is. Can you offer some suggestions? -- R.A., via e-mail

A: The only opinion that counts when it comes to a litter box is the one held by the cat who has to use it. I'm guessing your cat is stressed by the changes and doesn't like having the box in the garage, for whatever reason.

After your veterinarian makes sure your cat doesn't have a health problem that could be causing the behavior, get a fresh start by creating an area in which your pet can establish new habits. The space can be a spare bedroom or extra bath. Ideally, it should be a low-traffic area that can be isolated from the rest of the house. Make sure your cat has everything she needs, including food and water, a soft place to sleep, a scratching post or cat tree, some toys and, of course, the litter box.

In the meantime, thoroughly clean the area near the shower with an enzymatic cleaner to remove the smells that invite a repeat performance. Keep your cat in her new room for a couple of weeks, visiting her frequently to pet her and play with her. The time in the smaller area allows her to get used to the litter box in a spot more to her liking.

Eventually, you can open the door and allow her to expand her range. By easing her into her new home and putting the box where it suits her better, you'll be doing your best to make peace between your pet and your mate.

Q: Our Lab mix died a few months ago at the age of 14. We went back to the humane society where we had such good luck before. After a couple of visits, we found a sweet shepherd-mix puppy and decided to adopt her. The shelter insists on having her spayed before we take her home. She's only 10 weeks old, and we can't believe surgery would be safe for her now. There's no problem with spaying her, but we'd rather do it when she's 6 months old. The shelter says it's now or never. What do you think? -- D.A., via e-mail

A: Follow the shelter's advice. The neutering of puppies and kittens as young as 8 weeks of age has become fairly routine, and studies show rather convincingly that there are no long-term health or behavior problems as a result.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Go to any animal shelter that takes in strays, and you'll find plenty of friendly cats.

It doesn't take an expert to see that these animals may be strays, but they're not wild by any measure. Like millions of other pets, they've likely slept on beds, rubbed ankles lovingly and run to the sound of a can opener at dinnertime.

People are surely missing these cats, looking for them and hoping for their return. Without collars and tags, though, the chances of any of these pets being reunited are very low. Some may get adopted, but most will never get another chance to show what wonderful pets they are. All because they weren't wearing collars and tags.

Why are cat lovers so resistant to collaring their cats? I decided to count the collars on the dozens of cats I see on my morning walks. After a week, the total number of collared cats came to two, both enjoying the morning sunshine in front of the same house.

I know that some people tire of replacing collars their cats keep slipping off, while others are convinced their cats will get caught by collars while roaming. Neither argument holds much credence, though: Cat collars are relatively inexpensive and very safe.

Cat collars are made of lightweight material and designed to "give" enough to let your cat wriggle free should the collar ever catch on something. Don't get a puppy collar by mistake: Dog collars are meant to prevent escapes, while cat collars are made to allow them. The fit should be snug, but not uncomfortably so.

Once you've got the right collar, order a tag. ID tags come in high-impact plastic in a variety of colors and shapes, or in metal, also in many varieties, such as circles, cat's heads, reflectors and so on. Since cat tags are small, don't bother with putting your cat's name on it, or your address. Instead, fill all the space you're allowed with phone numbers -- not only yours, but also those of a friend or relative who can be reached if you're unavailable. I also like to put the word "reward" on the pet tags I order.

You could alternatively consider a tag from a 24-hour assistance service, such as 1-800-HELP-4-PETS. In addition to reuniting lost pets with their owners, the service will authorize emergency veterinary care or boarding if a pet is found and the owner can't be reached immediately. (More information can be found on the service's Web site, www.help4pets.com.)

Microchips are a form of ID that has come on strong in recent years, but they work best as a complement to tags, not as a replacement for them. The microchip is permanent identification that's about the size of a grain of rice, which your veterinarian can insert beneath the skin over your pet's shoulder blades using a large needle.

The chip, encased in a nonreactive glass casing, contains a unique identifying number that can be read by a scanner, kind of like those in the grocery store. The American Kennel Club's Companion Animal Recovery Service offers a microchip registry for all pets, with operators on call night and day to help when a microchipped pet is found. (For more information on CAR, call (800) 252-7894, or visit www.akc.org/love/car.)

Remember, though, that most lost pets are found not by shelter staffers but by neighbors, and neighbors don't have microchip scanners in their collection of home appliances. Which is why even though a microchip can't be topped for permanent identification, you'll still need a collar and tag for your pet.

If more people thought to buy collars and tags, more of those shelter cats would find their way home. Happy endings often start with pet lovers who care enough to prepare for the worst. Doesn't your cat deserve a ticket home?

PETS ON THE WEB

Anyone with an interest in aquariums should visit the Bluebin Web site (www.bluebin.com). The site offers plenty of information on setting up both freshwater and saltwater tanks, as well as on keeping the fish and their surroundings healthy. The section on reef tanks is especially thorough, with information on dozens of species of coral, along with links to message boards for discussing problems with more experienced hobbyists.

The site also includes a helpful glossary and information on various fish diseases. Be sure to check out the Tank of the Month for an eye-popping exhibition of the marvelous ecosystems some people enjoy in their own homes.

THE SCOOP

When it comes to the litter box, the only opinion that matters is your cat's. When a cat doesn't like the box, the placement, the filler, the level of cleanliness or the accessories, he'll be tempted to take his business elsewhere. And nobody wants that.

Two items that are marketed to human sensibilities may be especially annoying to some cats. Litter-box liners make it easier to change out the contents of the box, but some cats don't like the feel of plastic under their paws as they scratch to bury their waste. Likewise, deodorant products intended to make the box smell better to people may be disgustingly strong to the sensitive nose of a cat.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you for coming down on people for letting their cats roam. I think you should know that there's another good reason for keeping cats inside: They kill songbirds!

My husband and I just built a new home in the foothills, and we have put in feeders and birdbaths to attract the birds. We love to watch the birds, but we have found that our bird-feeding efforts also attract the neighbor's cats. They have already killed several birds. We talked to the neighbors and have gotten nowhere.

We don't hate cats, but we like birds better. Would you keep up your crusade to keep cats inside? Songbird populations are dropping because of irresponsible pet owners. -- D.O., via e-mail

A: Yes, it's true that some cats kill birds, but putting the blame on cats for reductions in songbird populations misses the bigger picture. We who live in glass houses (or new wood ones) really shouldn't be throwing stones at cats. Our widespread destruction of habitat has a far greater impact on bird populations than cats ever could.

Still, your neighbors are being less than considerate of you, and less than concerned about their cats. Some people think when they move to "the country" that it's safe for their pets to run free, but rural areas have their own risks every bit as deadly as those in more urban settings.

Outdoor cats in rural areas face one of the most successful predators in the world -- coyotes. An acquaintance of mine who lives on rural property has lost more barn cats than she can count to coyotes. She doesn't like losing them, but rationalizes the loss by arguing that they're feral animals with a job to do -- keeping the barn free of rodents. (She also has two purely pet cats who stay inside.)

Try again with your neighbors, perhaps by explaining the risk their cats take every time they set a paw outside. If nothing else, ask them to put bells on their cats' collars. The strategy isn't foolproof -- some cats get quite adept at silent stalking, even when belled -- but it might give the birds a fighting chance.

Q: Is it true that an iguana will grow a new tail if it loses the one it has? -- A.H., via e-mail

A: The ability to lose a tail can be a lifesaver for iguanas. If caught by a predator, an iguana can escape by dropping the tail, leaving it still wriggling in the mouth of the creature who thought lunch was in the bag. The trick isn't used just with predators: More than a few people who are new to having an iguana as a pet have ended up screaming the first time they find themselves holding a thrashing tail instead of an iguana.

Smaller iguanas are more likely than larger ones to regrow their tails, usually in a few weeks. If the tail is in place but injured, or is only partially broken off, a visit to a veterinarian with experience in reptiles is in order to determine the best course of treatment.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600