A headset holding back her thick gray hair and a look of gentle amusement on her face, Marla Baer is shifting through her voicemail messages at the Dumb Friends League in Denver.

Her first regards a cat who's scratching furniture. She takes some notes and moves on to the next problem: a dog who's escaping the yard. Then a cat who's spraying the baseboards with urine.

She takes a deep breath and starts returning phone calls. Baer, a staff counselor for the league's pioneering pet behavior help line, has a real knack for her job, dispensing humor, compassion and information in equal measure. Still, she has her work cut out for her every time she picks up the phone. Some problems can be fixed, she knows, while others cannot. The hardest cases she deals with are those that can be fixed, but the pet's owner can't do what's needed -- or won't even try.

Baer herself never stops trying -- listening, cajoling, advising, telling jokes and stories. She deftly defuses the anger of one person, soothes the tears of another. Nothing out of the norm for Baer, except that on this day her phone is connected to the headsets of a half-dozen others who are here from around the country to learn how she does her job.

The eavesdroppers are all experienced shelter workers, brought to Denver to be part of a Pets For Life seminar. Every three months, about two dozen participants go through the intensive two-week course, which is designed to give shelters the information they need to help people in their own communities solve common pet behavior problems. Pets For Life is sponsored by charitable grants, administered by the Humane Society of the United States and taught by the staff of the Dumb Friends League at the organization's main Denver shelter.

"Shelter behavior programs will save as many lives as spaying and neutering," says Bob Rohde, president of the Dumb Friends League. He believes it, too: The league has been a pioneer in putting such programs into place, which is why people from other shelters come to Denver to see what the organization is doing.

The combination of pre-adoption training and post-adoption counseling at the league has reduced the number of pets who "boomerang" -- are adopted out and promptly returned because of behavior problems. The league also works to make sure potential adopters have a realistic idea of what's involved in keeping a pet, so they can cope with the responsibility and the expense.

The results overall have been promising, with a 7 percent drop in returns. There's no doubt, though, that the help line is at the heart of the shelter's behavior services. Last year, the league's staff of nine, plus about three times that many volunteers, handled 7,400 calls. The organization's Web page (www.ddfl.org) was busy as well, taking some 60,000 hits a month on its behavior pages.

Since the league's free advice is available to anyone who has a pet, not just to those who adopted an animal from the league, it's reasonable to assume that countless additional animals who were on the verge of being abandoned stayed in their homes because of the help their owners got from the help line or Web page.

These are the kind of results that have shelter workers from around the country standing in line to attend Pets For Life classes. Lessons include not only solutions to animal-behavior problems, but also reading feline and canine body language, no-punishment dog-training techniques, behavior management in a shelter setting, and counseling skills for dealing with the human half of the equation.

Back on the headsets, Baer tells her observers that the last set of skills is probably most important of all. Getting through to people is everything in this business. The help line counselor says she can't wait until there are plenty more trained just as she is -- and thanks to Pets For Life, there soon will be. And then she smiles and calls the owners of the kitty with a spraying problem as the others lean forward to listen.

PETS ON THE WEB

You don't have to be in Denver to get help from the Dumb Friends League, since the organization has put all its behavior information on its Web site. By clicking on Behavior Info from the league's home page (www.ddfl.org), you can access a library of information to help with both feline and canine misbehavior, including advice on house-training and on such destructive problems as scratching in cats and digging in dogs. The information is thorough and easy-to-follow, and has been reviewed by experienced behaviorists.

THE SCOOP

"Reel-type" leashes -- the Flexi is probably the best-known brand -- are very popular, and rightfully so. They allow dogs a little bit of freedom while keeping them technically on leash.

But if you have a strong, out-of-control dog, you shouldn't be using a Flexi. That's because this kind of leash actually encourages the dog to pull -- if he does, he gets more room. Plus, the handle on the reel-type leash is very hard to hold onto if the dog jerks against the line suddenly.

If your dog isn't well-trained, you're better off sticking with a traditional leash so you'll have the control you need in a pinch.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My two 5-year-old, spayed, female German shorthair pointers have lived all their lives thus far on fenced rural acreage where they can run, dig and chase birds to their hearts' content. Soon I will be moving to a house in the city with a medium-sized yard. What advice can you give me on how to retrain them so we can all live there contentedly? -- R.K., via e-mail

A: Your dogs will adjust fine if you pay attention to the most basic need of large, active dogs like these: exercise.

Few dogs get enough exercise, and the lack of a heart-thumping daily outing contributes to such behavior problems as digging, barking, chewing and more.

Consider that many of the most popular breeds and mixes are descended from animals who were bred to work: to herd sheep, retrieve ducks, pull sleds and so on. Is it any surprise that such animals are bored out of their heads when left alone for hours and hours at a time? A couple of short walks a week and maybe a game of fetch a few times a month will not fulfill their need to move their bodies to the point of exhaustion.

When I was living on the Florida panhandle for six months, my two retrievers had the Gulf of Mexico as their back yard. They ran the beach and swam for an hour or more each day. When we had to come home to California, we returned to our small urban cottage with a postage-stamp back yard.

They've made the adjustment well, because they are exercised daily. I take them out each morning, one at a time, to run alongside my bike for a half-hour or more. With their basic exercise needs satisfied, they are content to nap while I work. We also hit the dog park a couple of times a week.

Your dogs will be happy where you are, as long as they are a part of your life and get the exercise they need, an aerobic outing at least 20 minutes in length, preferably every day.

Q: Thanks for including the letter from the mom of Leo (the dog who was thrown into traffic and killed) in your recent column.

May we honor his memory by looking at our own speech and behavior: Stopping cruelty of all sorts begins and ends with each of us. His terrible death and the suffering of those he left behind have motivated me to be a better person. -- C.J.W., Chico, Calif.

A: I was pleased to see that the man who threw Leo into traffic received the maximum sentence allowed by law. I am grateful to the dog's owner, Sarah McBurnett, for seeing the matter through to its conclusion and for fighting so hard to see the man responsible for her dog's death brought to justice.

No animal-cruelty case has ever sparked so much discussion -- even the staid Wall Street Journal had an opinion on the case and its outcome. What I hope comes out of the matter is an increased awareness of the link between cruelty to animals and crimes against people (this case was both), and that the outcome sends a message to abusers that their crimes will no longer be taken lightly.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Not long ago I was hanging out with a friend while he worked the overnight shift at an emergency veterinary clinic. I was expecting to see some dreadful situations and, sadly, I was not disappointed. Over the course of very long night, my veterinarian friend struggled to save a dog who'd been shot, a cat who'd been run over and a puppy with parvo. (The cat made it, the dog didn't, and the puppy was still hanging on when we left.)

What surprised me most, though, were not the obvious emergency cases, but rather the animals who came in with problems that weren't urgent at all. Like worms. The owners saw something wiggling around "back there" and figured it had to be something important. A pretty pricey decision on their part, to be sure, and one that they'll likely never make again.

But how can you tell if your pet is sick? You can start by educating yourself about the signs of a healthy dog or cat. You want to see bright, clear eyes with no sign of discharge; clean ears, free of buildup or smell; a mouth not overpowered by its odor, with pink gums free of infection; a nose that appears moist, with no discharge; and a shiny coat, with unblemished skin below that snaps back easily when pulled away from the shoulders. A healthy attitude, a healthy appetite and normal thirst are part of the package, too, without signs of intestinal upset. No lameness, no swelling. No heavy panting.

Anything to the contrary is reason for concern. Now you just have to figure out how much of a concern. Is it really an emergency?

The way to begin is with a thermometer. To take your pet's temperature, put a little water-based lubricant on the tip of the thermometer and insert it in the animal's fanny. After a minute or so, remove and check the temperature. Normal is between 100 and 102.5 for dogs and cats; anything below 99 or above 103 is worth checking with a veterinarian, day or night.

Some other emergency indicators include seizure, fainting or collapse, as well as any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, rodent or snail bait, or human medication. Snake or spider bites, too, demand immediate attention. Cats in particular can be fatally sensitive to insecticides, petroleum-based products or medications such as Tylenol.

Sometimes situations that might not seem urgent really are, even seemingly mild problems such as a small eye injury or allergic reactions such as swelling around the face or hives. A single incident of vomiting or diarrhea is probably nothing; anything more than two or three times within an hour or so could indicate a serious problem. Other signs of possible serious conditions are breathing problems or chronic coughing, as well as difficulties urinating or defecating, especially in cats.

Animals can sometimes seem fine after accidents, such as being hit by a car, being exposed to extreme heat or cold, or being cut or bitten. Beware! Your pet may have internal problems that could be lethal if not attended to quickly. These traumas always require immediate veterinary attention, even if your pet is reacting normally.

There are also situations that may not be life-threatening but are certainly painful enough to warrant immediate veterinary attention. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy or restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding or crying out. While it may be possible to wait until your regular veterinarian is available, put yourself in your pet's place. Don't let your pet suffer!

The best rule of thumb? When in doubt, call a veterinarian. Money issues aside, it's always better to make a trip you needn't have than to miss the one you should have made.

PETS ON THE WEB

Thinking of bringing home a four-legged family member? Don't forget to look on the Net. A good place to start is the wonderful Pet Shelter Network site (www.petshelter.org). The site is well-organized and offers a searchable database of animal groups large and small, as well as articles on responsible pet stewardship and on how to adopt the pet of your dreams. If you need to find a home for a pet, you can do it on the site, too, but only if you provide proof of altering. The folks at the Pet Shelter Network are obviously hoping to be put out of business by a shortage of homeless pets.

THE SCOOP

If you had to spend your life in a cage, you'd want it to be as big as possible, wouldn't you? Then why settle for a tiny cage for your bird, reptile or small mammal? Forget the pet store's labels or recommendations: For them, cage size recommendations are based on what they believe a customer will pop for -- in other words, the cheapest option available. (After all, for some small pets, the cage can be more expensive than the animal.)

Think bigger! Go one size larger than the pet-store recommendations. For a budgie, for example, get a cage sized for a cockatiel, while cockatiels should be in cages sized for small parrots. And while you're introducing that larger cage to your pet, don't forget to enrich the environment with a variety of toys (and perches, for birds).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband, son and I bought a kitten about 15 months ago. We love our cat, but my son and I both have scratches where the cat has bitten or clawed us. We think that he may just be wishing he had someone to play with. He's an indoor cat, neutered and not declawed. If we get another cat, will they become playmates and companions? Or is it more likely that we'll just end up with two cats biting and clawing us? -- P.G., via e-mail

A: You have two separate issues here that aren't related. Let's tackle that biting and clawing problem first.

It's not unusual for kittens and young cats to be rough in their play, and as you have painfully discovered, those claws are very sharp indeed! To start training your cat to play nice, you need to immediately stop any punishment (such as thwapping the cat on the nose, if you're doing that), and learn to read your cat's body language.

You'll find if you watch the tail, you'll notice a twitching, then a swishing, then a lashing leading up to the biting and scratching. These are all signs that your cat is becoming overstimulated. The trick is to break off contact and walk away at the first twitch. If you do this religiously, you should be able to build up your pet's tolerance for petting. His growing older will also help.

If you miss the signs and find your cat wrapped painfully around your arm, don't react by shouting or hitting -- freeze! In a few seconds, your cat should regain his composure and let go. If you struggle, his instincts will be to fight harder.

You can also help the learning process along by never using your hands to play with your cat -- a mistake many people make on kittens, thereby training them that it's cool to bite people. Instead, help your pet burn off some of his energy by using a "fishing pole" toy to play with him.

Finally, start clipping the tips of your cat's nails so they won't be so sharp. Your veterinarian can show you how.

Your cat may well benefit from the addition of a companion. Since he's still pretty young, the introduction process should go smoothly no matter which cat you choose. Visit a shelter and look for a mellow, middle-aged cat who has lived with another cat before, to balance out the craziness of the younger one.

Q: Our cockatiel has eaten nothing but seed mix her whole life, and she's 12 years old. We've read that seed isn't good for her, but she seems to be doing fine. Should we try to change her diet now? -- W.B., via e-mail

A: Parrots -- and this term includes the little guys like budgies and cockatiels -- should eat a diet of nutritionally balanced pellets supplemented by healthy "people food" such as fruits, vegetables, whole-grain breads and pasta. Seeds should be an occasional treat, not the foundation of a diet.

Because of your bird's age, I'd recommend a complete examination by a veterinarian experienced in avian care. Once your bird's true health status is determined (birds often hide signs of illness from their owners), you can work with your veterinarian to improve gradually the quality of your pet's diet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

There's a story that's told, with a knowing smile and a hint of a wink, by those who advise people on their pets' behavior problems.

A cat lover calls in with a problem. "My cat pees on pillows!" she says, obviously very unhappy with the situation.

"How long has this been going on?" says the behaviorist.

"Seven years," says the caller.

"Seven years!" says the behaviorist. "Why on earth have you waited so long to get help?"

"Because now he's peeing on MY pillow," says the caller.

People who work with pet behavior problems are often struck not by how quickly a person will reach the breaking point, but rather by how much some pet lovers will put up with and for how long. The problem is, by the time these pet lovers seek help, the behavior may be too entrenched to do much about it.

And that's the point of the pillow-peeing-cat's story: Don't wait, even if it's not your pillow that's getting hit. At the first sign of a problem, get help. Ask your veterinarian for help, and possibly a referral to a behaviorist or trainer with experience in solving your pet's particular problem, be it inappropriate elimination, destructiveness, shyness or aggression.

Why is this so important? In the case of a dog or cat who's using the house as a toilet, every day you wait the inside of your home becomes ever more difficult to clean. Pets are attracted to places they've hit before, and once a home becomes saturated, it's almost impossible to eliminate the smell to the pet's satisfaction.

Your best hope is to clean messes promptly and retrain your pet before the bad habit is as set as those old urine stains.

Need more reasons why waiting to get help is a bad idea? How about these: You could be doing exactly the wrong thing in your efforts to fix your pet's problem. And even if you're doing nothing more than ignoring the problem, the behavior could be getting worse on its own.

An example of the "wrong approach" would be the way many people deal with a dog who's shy or scared. It seems natural to react to such behavior by soothing the animal, petting him and praising him in an attempt to make him happier. It may make sense, but it's the wrong approach to fixing the problem.

When you soothe a shy or scared animal, you're really rewarding him for being nervous, and that just makes the situation worse. A good behaviorist will observe your pet's problem, will see how you are reacting to it, and will suggest a program you can follow to correct the behavior humanely. In the case of the shy dog, that will probably entail ignoring the nervousness, substituting other behaviors on command and praising the dog for those.

In the case of an aggressive animal, ignoring the problem is almost certain to make it worse. The dog who learns that all he need do to get his way is growl will soon figure out that if a little aggression is good, a lot is better, at least from his point of view. Once he gets that idea in his head, you'll have a full-blown menace on your hands. The people who guess wrong in trying to fix aggression often get bitten in the process. Or see the dog attack someone else, maybe a child.

Whatever your reason for putting off dealing with your pet's behavior problem -- denial, lack of time or hoping he'll outgrow it -- realize now that wishful thinking never changed anything. Most pet behavior problems can be corrected, especially if you catch them early and make use of the advice of someone who knows what he's doing.

Why would you want to wait to have a well-behaved pet? Call your vet, jump on the Internet, check out a book -- you can find good information by doing any of these things. But only if you try.

PET ON THE WEB

The How to Love Your Dog site (www.geocities.com/~kidsanddogs) is designed for kids, although adults could learn a thing or two here as well. The site is packed with articles on getting, raising and training a puppy or dog, with the emphasis firmly on proper care and responsible stewardship. Janet Wall, a human educator and lifelong dog lover, knows that getting through to children is not about lecturing. She has put in plenty of opportunities for learning that's also fun, including riddles submitted by kids, and quizzes that cheer on the participant with every click. I also like the "I Love My Dog" contract, which will help children understand that a pet is a responsibility that lasts for years.

THE SCOOP

Not all cats like catnip. The ability to appreciate the herb is genetic, with slightly more cats in the fan club than not. These hard-wired preferences aren't immediately apparent, though, since kittens under the age of 3 months don't react to catnip at all.

Among those cats who do like catnip, you'll find two basic kinds of reactions: Your cat may seem to become a lazy drunk, or a wired-up crazy. Credit a substance called "nepetalactone," which is found in the leaves and stems and causes the mood-altering behavior.

Is catnip safe? While some cat experts recommend that you grow your own catnip or buy only organically raised products, the consensus is that you can treat your cat as often as you (and your cat) wish. Catnip is considered to be nonaddictive and harmless.

Q: My sister's 2-year-old male golden retriever has, for the past several months, peed in the same place continuously. He does not go anywhere else in the house. Any suggestions? -- C.H., via e-mail

A: This should be a pretty easy problem to fix, but it will take some effort initially.

First, is the dog neutered? Male dogs live to mark territory, but neutering cuts down on this unpleasant hormone-driven behavior. It also makes the animal a safer, happier pet. Have your sister talk to her veterinarian about scheduling this important procedure right away, if it hasn't already been done.

Second, clean up the area where the dog is marking, using enzymatic cleaners designed for pet messes. (Other kinds of cleaners do not eliminate the odor, and some, like ammonia, even make the problem worse.) A thorough cleaning is essential, since any remnant of past mistakes will emit an odor that will attract the dog to refresh his mark.

You can get enzymatic cleaners from most pet-supply stores, catalogs and Web sites. Nature's Miracle is one popular brand name.

Finally, block off the area from the dog while he's being retrained. Take the dog outside and praise him for marking in the right spot. In the house, always keep him under watch or on leash for a couple of weeks so he never gets the opportunity to make the wrong decision.

If your sister catches him in the act of lifting his leg indoors, she should clap her hands to distract him and stop the behavior, then take him outside to finish the job, praising him for getting it right. Punishment is never necessary and is flat-out useless if done after the fact.

Q: We recently moved to a house adjacent to an undeveloped brushy hillside. The area probably has some critters that would be unfriendly to our 7-year-old Siamese cat, so we are keeping her inside. You recommended giving inside cats "greens for nibbling." I am not sure what you mean by this. Could you please explain and tell me where I would obtains these "greens"? -- G.W., Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: It's easy to keep greens on hand for cats. It doesn't take much of a green thumb, and indoor kitties in particular will be ever so grateful for your thoughtfulness.

Grasses are always a favorite. Since cats seem to like the tenderest shoots best, sow a fresh crop every couple of weeks in a wide, shallow planter. Alfalfa, rye and wheat seeds are ideal. You can find seeds from catalogs or nurseries, but be sure to choose those that have not been pre-treated with chemicals. If you search pet-supply stores, catalogs and Web sites, you can find pre-packaged kitty greens, complete with seeds, soil and planter. All you need do is add water.

Parsley and thyme are also popular and can be grown indoors for your cat's nibbling pleasure. Any decent nursery will have young plants ready to be transplanted into a pot, and the mature plants make a nice addition to your decor.

Finally, you can keep a crop of catnip or valerian on hand. Most people know about the amazing effect catnip has on some cats, but not many people know that valerian is another plant that tickles a cat's fancy. Plant both of these in cat-proof areas, or your pet may pull the seedlings out by the root. After the plant is large enough to stand it, trim off a piece and offer it to your pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600