Not long ago I was hanging out with a friend while he worked the overnight shift at an emergency veterinary clinic. I was expecting to see some dreadful situations and, sadly, I was not disappointed. Over the course of very long night, my veterinarian friend struggled to save a dog who'd been shot, a cat who'd been run over and a puppy with parvo. (The cat made it, the dog didn't, and the puppy was still hanging on when we left.)

What surprised me most, though, were not the obvious emergency cases, but rather the animals who came in with problems that weren't urgent at all. Like worms. The owners saw something wiggling around "back there" and figured it had to be something important. A pretty pricey decision on their part, to be sure, and one that they'll likely never make again.

But how can you tell if your pet is sick? You can start by educating yourself about the signs of a healthy dog or cat. You want to see bright, clear eyes with no sign of discharge; clean ears, free of buildup or smell; a mouth not overpowered by its odor, with pink gums free of infection; a nose that appears moist, with no discharge; and a shiny coat, with unblemished skin below that snaps back easily when pulled away from the shoulders. A healthy attitude, a healthy appetite and normal thirst are part of the package, too, without signs of intestinal upset. No lameness, no swelling. No heavy panting.

Anything to the contrary is reason for concern. Now you just have to figure out how much of a concern. Is it really an emergency?

The way to begin is with a thermometer. To take your pet's temperature, put a little water-based lubricant on the tip of the thermometer and insert it in the animal's fanny. After a minute or so, remove and check the temperature. Normal is between 100 and 102.5 for dogs and cats; anything below 99 or above 103 is worth checking with a veterinarian, day or night.

Some other emergency indicators include seizure, fainting or collapse, as well as any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, rodent or snail bait, or human medication. Snake or spider bites, too, demand immediate attention. Cats in particular can be fatally sensitive to insecticides, petroleum-based products or medications such as Tylenol.

Sometimes situations that might not seem urgent really are, even seemingly mild problems such as a small eye injury or allergic reactions such as swelling around the face or hives. A single incident of vomiting or diarrhea is probably nothing; anything more than two or three times within an hour or so could indicate a serious problem. Other signs of possible serious conditions are breathing problems or chronic coughing, as well as difficulties urinating or defecating, especially in cats.

Animals can sometimes seem fine after accidents, such as being hit by a car, being exposed to extreme heat or cold, or being cut or bitten. Beware! Your pet may have internal problems that could be lethal if not attended to quickly. These traumas always require immediate veterinary attention, even if your pet is reacting normally.

There are also situations that may not be life-threatening but are certainly painful enough to warrant immediate veterinary attention. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy or restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding or crying out. While it may be possible to wait until your regular veterinarian is available, put yourself in your pet's place. Don't let your pet suffer!

The best rule of thumb? When in doubt, call a veterinarian. Money issues aside, it's always better to make a trip you needn't have than to miss the one you should have made.

PETS ON THE WEB

Thinking of bringing home a four-legged family member? Don't forget to look on the Net. A good place to start is the wonderful Pet Shelter Network site (www.petshelter.org). The site is well-organized and offers a searchable database of animal groups large and small, as well as articles on responsible pet stewardship and on how to adopt the pet of your dreams. If you need to find a home for a pet, you can do it on the site, too, but only if you provide proof of altering. The folks at the Pet Shelter Network are obviously hoping to be put out of business by a shortage of homeless pets.

THE SCOOP

If you had to spend your life in a cage, you'd want it to be as big as possible, wouldn't you? Then why settle for a tiny cage for your bird, reptile or small mammal? Forget the pet store's labels or recommendations: For them, cage size recommendations are based on what they believe a customer will pop for -- in other words, the cheapest option available. (After all, for some small pets, the cage can be more expensive than the animal.)

Think bigger! Go one size larger than the pet-store recommendations. For a budgie, for example, get a cage sized for a cockatiel, while cockatiels should be in cages sized for small parrots. And while you're introducing that larger cage to your pet, don't forget to enrich the environment with a variety of toys (and perches, for birds).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband, son and I bought a kitten about 15 months ago. We love our cat, but my son and I both have scratches where the cat has bitten or clawed us. We think that he may just be wishing he had someone to play with. He's an indoor cat, neutered and not declawed. If we get another cat, will they become playmates and companions? Or is it more likely that we'll just end up with two cats biting and clawing us? -- P.G., via e-mail

A: You have two separate issues here that aren't related. Let's tackle that biting and clawing problem first.

It's not unusual for kittens and young cats to be rough in their play, and as you have painfully discovered, those claws are very sharp indeed! To start training your cat to play nice, you need to immediately stop any punishment (such as thwapping the cat on the nose, if you're doing that), and learn to read your cat's body language.

You'll find if you watch the tail, you'll notice a twitching, then a swishing, then a lashing leading up to the biting and scratching. These are all signs that your cat is becoming overstimulated. The trick is to break off contact and walk away at the first twitch. If you do this religiously, you should be able to build up your pet's tolerance for petting. His growing older will also help.

If you miss the signs and find your cat wrapped painfully around your arm, don't react by shouting or hitting -- freeze! In a few seconds, your cat should regain his composure and let go. If you struggle, his instincts will be to fight harder.

You can also help the learning process along by never using your hands to play with your cat -- a mistake many people make on kittens, thereby training them that it's cool to bite people. Instead, help your pet burn off some of his energy by using a "fishing pole" toy to play with him.

Finally, start clipping the tips of your cat's nails so they won't be so sharp. Your veterinarian can show you how.

Your cat may well benefit from the addition of a companion. Since he's still pretty young, the introduction process should go smoothly no matter which cat you choose. Visit a shelter and look for a mellow, middle-aged cat who has lived with another cat before, to balance out the craziness of the younger one.

Q: Our cockatiel has eaten nothing but seed mix her whole life, and she's 12 years old. We've read that seed isn't good for her, but she seems to be doing fine. Should we try to change her diet now? -- W.B., via e-mail

A: Parrots -- and this term includes the little guys like budgies and cockatiels -- should eat a diet of nutritionally balanced pellets supplemented by healthy "people food" such as fruits, vegetables, whole-grain breads and pasta. Seeds should be an occasional treat, not the foundation of a diet.

Because of your bird's age, I'd recommend a complete examination by a veterinarian experienced in avian care. Once your bird's true health status is determined (birds often hide signs of illness from their owners), you can work with your veterinarian to improve gradually the quality of your pet's diet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

There's a story that's told, with a knowing smile and a hint of a wink, by those who advise people on their pets' behavior problems.

A cat lover calls in with a problem. "My cat pees on pillows!" she says, obviously very unhappy with the situation.

"How long has this been going on?" says the behaviorist.

"Seven years," says the caller.

"Seven years!" says the behaviorist. "Why on earth have you waited so long to get help?"

"Because now he's peeing on MY pillow," says the caller.

People who work with pet behavior problems are often struck not by how quickly a person will reach the breaking point, but rather by how much some pet lovers will put up with and for how long. The problem is, by the time these pet lovers seek help, the behavior may be too entrenched to do much about it.

And that's the point of the pillow-peeing-cat's story: Don't wait, even if it's not your pillow that's getting hit. At the first sign of a problem, get help. Ask your veterinarian for help, and possibly a referral to a behaviorist or trainer with experience in solving your pet's particular problem, be it inappropriate elimination, destructiveness, shyness or aggression.

Why is this so important? In the case of a dog or cat who's using the house as a toilet, every day you wait the inside of your home becomes ever more difficult to clean. Pets are attracted to places they've hit before, and once a home becomes saturated, it's almost impossible to eliminate the smell to the pet's satisfaction.

Your best hope is to clean messes promptly and retrain your pet before the bad habit is as set as those old urine stains.

Need more reasons why waiting to get help is a bad idea? How about these: You could be doing exactly the wrong thing in your efforts to fix your pet's problem. And even if you're doing nothing more than ignoring the problem, the behavior could be getting worse on its own.

An example of the "wrong approach" would be the way many people deal with a dog who's shy or scared. It seems natural to react to such behavior by soothing the animal, petting him and praising him in an attempt to make him happier. It may make sense, but it's the wrong approach to fixing the problem.

When you soothe a shy or scared animal, you're really rewarding him for being nervous, and that just makes the situation worse. A good behaviorist will observe your pet's problem, will see how you are reacting to it, and will suggest a program you can follow to correct the behavior humanely. In the case of the shy dog, that will probably entail ignoring the nervousness, substituting other behaviors on command and praising the dog for those.

In the case of an aggressive animal, ignoring the problem is almost certain to make it worse. The dog who learns that all he need do to get his way is growl will soon figure out that if a little aggression is good, a lot is better, at least from his point of view. Once he gets that idea in his head, you'll have a full-blown menace on your hands. The people who guess wrong in trying to fix aggression often get bitten in the process. Or see the dog attack someone else, maybe a child.

Whatever your reason for putting off dealing with your pet's behavior problem -- denial, lack of time or hoping he'll outgrow it -- realize now that wishful thinking never changed anything. Most pet behavior problems can be corrected, especially if you catch them early and make use of the advice of someone who knows what he's doing.

Why would you want to wait to have a well-behaved pet? Call your vet, jump on the Internet, check out a book -- you can find good information by doing any of these things. But only if you try.

PET ON THE WEB

The How to Love Your Dog site (www.geocities.com/~kidsanddogs) is designed for kids, although adults could learn a thing or two here as well. The site is packed with articles on getting, raising and training a puppy or dog, with the emphasis firmly on proper care and responsible stewardship. Janet Wall, a human educator and lifelong dog lover, knows that getting through to children is not about lecturing. She has put in plenty of opportunities for learning that's also fun, including riddles submitted by kids, and quizzes that cheer on the participant with every click. I also like the "I Love My Dog" contract, which will help children understand that a pet is a responsibility that lasts for years.

THE SCOOP

Not all cats like catnip. The ability to appreciate the herb is genetic, with slightly more cats in the fan club than not. These hard-wired preferences aren't immediately apparent, though, since kittens under the age of 3 months don't react to catnip at all.

Among those cats who do like catnip, you'll find two basic kinds of reactions: Your cat may seem to become a lazy drunk, or a wired-up crazy. Credit a substance called "nepetalactone," which is found in the leaves and stems and causes the mood-altering behavior.

Is catnip safe? While some cat experts recommend that you grow your own catnip or buy only organically raised products, the consensus is that you can treat your cat as often as you (and your cat) wish. Catnip is considered to be nonaddictive and harmless.

Q: My sister's 2-year-old male golden retriever has, for the past several months, peed in the same place continuously. He does not go anywhere else in the house. Any suggestions? -- C.H., via e-mail

A: This should be a pretty easy problem to fix, but it will take some effort initially.

First, is the dog neutered? Male dogs live to mark territory, but neutering cuts down on this unpleasant hormone-driven behavior. It also makes the animal a safer, happier pet. Have your sister talk to her veterinarian about scheduling this important procedure right away, if it hasn't already been done.

Second, clean up the area where the dog is marking, using enzymatic cleaners designed for pet messes. (Other kinds of cleaners do not eliminate the odor, and some, like ammonia, even make the problem worse.) A thorough cleaning is essential, since any remnant of past mistakes will emit an odor that will attract the dog to refresh his mark.

You can get enzymatic cleaners from most pet-supply stores, catalogs and Web sites. Nature's Miracle is one popular brand name.

Finally, block off the area from the dog while he's being retrained. Take the dog outside and praise him for marking in the right spot. In the house, always keep him under watch or on leash for a couple of weeks so he never gets the opportunity to make the wrong decision.

If your sister catches him in the act of lifting his leg indoors, she should clap her hands to distract him and stop the behavior, then take him outside to finish the job, praising him for getting it right. Punishment is never necessary and is flat-out useless if done after the fact.

Q: We recently moved to a house adjacent to an undeveloped brushy hillside. The area probably has some critters that would be unfriendly to our 7-year-old Siamese cat, so we are keeping her inside. You recommended giving inside cats "greens for nibbling." I am not sure what you mean by this. Could you please explain and tell me where I would obtains these "greens"? -- G.W., Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: It's easy to keep greens on hand for cats. It doesn't take much of a green thumb, and indoor kitties in particular will be ever so grateful for your thoughtfulness.

Grasses are always a favorite. Since cats seem to like the tenderest shoots best, sow a fresh crop every couple of weeks in a wide, shallow planter. Alfalfa, rye and wheat seeds are ideal. You can find seeds from catalogs or nurseries, but be sure to choose those that have not been pre-treated with chemicals. If you search pet-supply stores, catalogs and Web sites, you can find pre-packaged kitty greens, complete with seeds, soil and planter. All you need do is add water.

Parsley and thyme are also popular and can be grown indoors for your cat's nibbling pleasure. Any decent nursery will have young plants ready to be transplanted into a pot, and the mature plants make a nice addition to your decor.

Finally, you can keep a crop of catnip or valerian on hand. Most people know about the amazing effect catnip has on some cats, but not many people know that valerian is another plant that tickles a cat's fancy. Plant both of these in cat-proof areas, or your pet may pull the seedlings out by the root. After the plant is large enough to stand it, trim off a piece and offer it to your pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Can cats and dogs get along? While a current movie has fun with the idea that the animals are secretly fighting an all-out war, millions of real-life cats and dogs live in harmony, and millions of people feel no family would be complete without at least one of each pet.

Getting a dog and cat to accept one another can difficult, though, as anyone who's tried to introduce them well knows. There are some basic steps to getting both pets to at least call an inter-species truce.

Under no circumstances should cat-dog introductions be handled by throwing the animals together and letting them work out things on their own. That method is far too stressful even in the best of circumstances. It's also important to keep in mind that introductions can be dangerous, usually for the cat. Some dogs see cats as prey, and even those dogs who are generally easygoing may react instinctively to a cat on the run, attacking the smaller animal.

Introductions must be supervised, and they must be handled with planning, care and patience.

If you have a cat and are planning to bring in a dog, try to find an animal who is known to be accepting of cats. Shelters, rescue groups or private parties looking to place puppies and dogs often know if an animal has successfully lived with a cat, or they will test to see how the pet behaves in the presence of one.

If you have a dog and are planning to bring in a cat, start working on your pet's obedience before you add the new animal. Your dog should be comfortable on a leash, and trained well enough to mind your requests for him to stay in either a sit or down position while on that leash.

For the cat's comfort, he should be confined during the early stages of introduction to a small area (such as a second bathroom or guest bedroom) where he can feel safe while becoming acclimated to the sounds and smells of the dog. Be sure the room has everything he needs, and make sure frequent one-on-one visits with human family members are also on the schedule.

After a couple of days with the cat sequestered, put the dog on leash and open the door to the cat's room. Allow the animals to see one another, and do not allow the dog to chase the cat, even in play. Use the sit-stay or down-stay to keep the dog in place while the cat gets used to his calm presence. Don't force the cat to interact with the dog; if the cat wishes to view the dog from the darkest recesses of the bed, so be it. Reward the good behavior of both animals with treats and praise.

Keep the dog on leash for a couple of weeks in the cat's presence, and always make sure the cat has a way to escape from the dog, such as putting a baby gate across the door to the safe area. Build up the time the animals spend together, and continue to make the introductions rewarding, with more treats and praise.

When the dog isn't interested in bothering the cat, and the cat feels secure enough to come out from under the bed, you can take off the leash and let them get on with their new lives together. How long it will take to get to this step will depend on the animals involved, and you must work at their pace.

It not uncommon for dogs and cats to become friends and to enjoy each other's company. Take the time to manage your cat-dog introduction properly, and you could be setting up a friendship that will last for the rest your pets' lives.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you ever let your cat get hold of your computer's mouse, he's going to click right through to www.CatToys.com, the ultimate site for anyone who wants to spoil a cat to the max. (And who doesn't?)

The Web site not only has dozens of the best toys on the market, but it also has recommendations broken down by breed and by personality, so active kitties and lazy kitties both get the plaything that's best suited to them.

I also like the company's way of giving to charity: Buy one cat toy for donation to shelter cats, and you get 5 percent off your entire order. Buy two or more, and it's 10 percent. The interviews with toy inventors are also unique to this site and make for entertaining reading.

THE SCOOP

There's something about visiting the veterinarian that can put even the most even-tempered cat into a full-blown snit that can last hours after the return home. The smells of a veterinary setting brought home on the fur of one cat can even set off the other feline family members, who may become aggressive toward or completely ignore the returnee until he is smelling the way he used to again. (A tip that might speed up the process: Run a towel over the cat who stayed behind and then swipe it over the returning cat to "de-vet" his scent.)

An unsettled cat is best left alone, unless you enjoy being bitten or scratched. When you get home, put the carrier down in a place with escape routes so you're not setting your cat up for an ambush by any other pets, then open the carrier door and leave him be. Your cat may stay in the carrier for a while, may head for the nearest bed to hide under, or may step out and be just fine. Take your cues from your cat, and let him pick the speed at which he settles back into the household.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A couple of weeks ago my boyfriend moved into my apartment. Since then, my cat has decided to pee on his things. It's obvious the cat hates my boyfriend. I don't want to give her up, but if I can't solve this problem, he'll have to go. I'm not getting rid of my boyfriend, no matter what the cat wants. What can you suggest? -- F.E., via e-mail

A: Your cat probably doesn't hate your boyfriend. There are two more likely factors influencing her recent behavior: first, a natural need to mark her territory; second, an increase in stress because of a new person and new household routines. Both of these conditions can trigger marking behavior.

You didn't say if your boyfriend's things are your cat's only targets or if you had a problem with marking before. If the problem isn't limited to what you wrote about, be sure your cat sees a veterinarian right away. She could have a medical condition (an infection, or possibly diabetes) that is causing her behavior, and the fact that it seemed to start when your boyfriend moved in may just be a coincidence.

If it's only your boyfriend's things that are being hit, then it's probably a stress and territory problem. Talk to your veterinarian about the possibility of putting your cat on an anti-anxiety medication in the short term, and limit her territory for a while to a small area of her own to allow her to acclimate to his presence more gradually. Make sure she has food, water, toys, a litter box and some place to scratch. And be sure, too, to spend time with her every day, petting time and playtime both. Cats don't do well with change, and problems like yours are very common.

As your cat becomes more comfortable with your boyfriend's presence and the new routines, she should become more accepting and can be allowed more freedom. Be sure before she is let near any previously marked areas that you've cleaned thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner (such as Nature's Miracle) to keep from inviting repeat business.

Be patient with your cat as she works her way through the transition. If you don't see any improvement in a couple of weeks' time, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can work out a program tailored precisely for you and your pet.

Q: I read in your book that you put your dogs' dishes in the dishwasher -- along with the people dishes. I'm sorry, but this just grosses me out. Remind me never to accept a dinner invitation from you! -- F.B., via e-mail

A: Remind me not to ask. And you probably wouldn't be thrilled with the fur that seems to end up on the clothes of visitors, since my pets are welcome on the furniture. Life in general isn't sterile, and life with either children or pets is even less so. Dirt happens, and you cope with it as best you can, within the boundaries of your own tolerance level.

From a health standpoint, though, you're unlikely to run into any problem from living with a healthy, well-groomed and parasite-free clean animal, which is exactly what mine are. And one way I keep them healthy is by making sure their dishes are cleaned daily by going through the same sterilizing blast of super-heated soap and water that my own do. Everything goes in dirty, true, but it all comes out clean.

For things that aren't routinely cleaned between uses -- such as a wall-mounted can opener -- I can see the sense in having a can opener just for pet food. I just don't keep anything around that can't be sterilized, no matter whether it is meant for use by two-legged or four-legged family members.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600