Feathers are one of nature's most stupendous feats of engineering, as strong and functional as they are beautiful. Although feathers vary from species to species -- compare the feathers of a penguin with the plumes of an ostrich to see how much -- the birds we keep as pets have three basic feather types:

-- Down feathers: These soft, short feathers, usually found closest to the skin, serve to keep the bird warm. Down feathers are the first feathers a baby bird has, and they function as sort of an avian layette.

The heat-trapping qualities of down feathers should come as no surprise; humans have used the down feathers of birds, especially geese, in any number of stay-warm products, from comforters to jackets.

On some species, a few of the down feathers are made to crumble: These "powderdown" feathers break into fine dust to aid in the bird's grooming. Birds from the more arid environments -- such as some parts of Africa and Australia -– are dustier than those from rainforests because of these feathers. Hug a cockatoo while wearing a dark shirt and you'll see what I mean: You'll find yourself covered with soft, white dust!

-- Contour feathers: These feathers have down "puffs" at their base and are stiffer toward the end. Contour feathers cover most of the body, including the down feathers. Dr. T.J. Lafeber, a pioneering avian veterinarian, describes the relationship of the down feathers to the contours as similar to a lined windbreaker: The down feathers keep warmth in, while the contours keep wind and rain at bay.

Unlike the fur of mammals, which grows pretty evenly over the entire body, contour feathers are arranged in tracts, between which are areas of bare skin.

-- Flight feathers: The longest and stiffest feathers are those used for flight, and they are found both on the wings and on the tail. The flight feathers are really modified contour feathers, specifically evolved to get the bird up into the air and help keep it there.

Flight feathers have little or no down at the base. If you look at one closely, you'll notice threads (called "barbules") protruding from the stiff barbs that come off the main shaft. On each barb, the barbules on the upper edge have hooklets, and the ones on the lower edge have ridges for catching the hooklets. The result is a strong, smooth, interwoven surface perfect for supporting flight.

A single feather may contain up to a million tiny barbules. When you watch your bird grooming his feathers, you will see him rearranging the location of the feather as well as pulling the feathers through his beak gently, to help re-lock hooklets that may have popped loose -- kind of like Velcro that came unattached and needs attention.

The gift of flight doesn't come without a price, and for birds that means a large part of their time is spent keeping feathers in fine shape, a behavior called "preening." Birds are so dedicated to keeping every one of the couple of thousand feathers they have in good order that they make even the neatest human seem like a slob by comparison.

Want to do your part? Help your bird with his grooming by getting him wet on a regular basis. Some birds enjoy being misted with a spray bottle, while others have perches in the shower and will go in when you do. Still others enjoy taking a bath in their cages. Experiment until you find out what suits your bird best, then give him a drenching as frequently as every day. It'll help him keep those marvelous feathers in fine form.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you haven't heard of Mr. Winkle yet, chances are you will soon. The fuzzy-headed little dog has been on the cover of a national pet magazine and the subject of his own calendar and, soon, his own book. He also has his own keyword (Mr. Winkle) on AOL.

Mr. Winkle is awfully cute, and he has his own photographer. What more would a dog need to become a celebrity? Photographer Lara Jo Regan has made him look his best on his Web site, www.mrwinkle.com. Look at the pictures, watch the movie, and if you can't resist, buy the merchandise. Mr. Winkle approves of it all.

THE SCOOP

On these hot days, it's perfectly fine to give pets ice cubes to enjoy. Dogs and cats may even enjoy "petsicles" made from chicken or beef broth and frozen in ice-cube trays.

One way to keep a pet's drinking water cool is to add homemade ice blocks. Freeze water in margarine tubs, then add a block of ice to the water dish before you leave for work in the morning. You like cold treats and cool drinks on hot days, and so does your pet!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: When I moved to my present home almost a year ago, I moved Patches, her food dish and litter box in first. I put her box and food in the laundry room. After all the moving was done, I closed all the outside doors, leaving the door to the laundry room open.

When I let her out of her carrier in the laundry room, she hid under the steps or behind the water heater. She stayed there for several hours. I got a familiar blanket for her, and she and I spent the rest of the night in "our" chair watching videos. By morning she was fine.

Love your column, and read it every time it's in my paper. Keep 'em coming. -– W.M., via e-mail

A: Congratulations! You eased Patches through one of the most difficult times in any cat's life: a change of residence.

It's always important to proceed with safety and patience when moving a cat. Your cat settled down in short order, while another cat may take days or even weeks to adjust.

Limiting a cat's access to a small room -– such as the laundry room you chose -– makes her feel more secure while she's adjusting. Make sure she has everything she needs -- food, water, litter box, something to scratch, something to sleep on, and a toy or two.

Never rush or force a cat. Let her choose when to explore the rest of the house, and if she wants to view the world from under the bed, let her.

You obviously have a very good relationship with Patches. That's what allowed you to "read" her feelings and provide her with some affection when she needed it. It surely reassured her that her surroundings may have changed, but you are still there for her.

Q: About three years ago I bought my kids a couple of budgies. I suspected that they would not pay too much attention to the birds after we got them, so I deliberately bought two (so they would bond).

The birds are indeed pretty much ignored, except that their cage is kept clean and they are fed and watered daily. Of course by this time they are quite hand-shy.

Is there an easy way to tell if they are happy or miserable? The budgies do not feather-pick, and they chirp to each other quite regularly. Does this mean they are happy enough with the current arrangements, or do I need to start trying to rehabilitate them? -- G.H., via e-mail

A: Too many budgies end up like these, a pet ignored by the children who wanted them. (At least these birds are well-cared-for, which isn't always the case in such situations.) What a shame for any budgie to be underappreciated, for a well-socialized budgie is a marvelous pet, sweet and affectionate. Many are great talkers, too.

It sounds as if your two are bonded to each other and happy enough with the situation. It wouldn't hurt to try working with them individually, though. Aside from the socializing (which they may not like), I'd suggest some environmental enrichment for your budgies. The cages that are matched to birds at pet-supply stores are usually at least one size too small. The more space to explore, the better, especially for a cage-bound bird.

Also, make sure they have toys to play with, and lots of fresh foods to eat. Variety is important when it comes to food, not just for the nutritional value of vegetables, fruits, bread, scrambled eggs, pasta and more, but also because different shapes, colors, tastes and textures help with boredom.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

What do an ironing board, clingy plastic food wrap and a condom have in common? In an emergency medical situation, all can be pressed into service to help save the life of your pet.

Surprising, innovative and definitely useful, such information makes a new book on first aid for dogs and cats an essential part of every pet lover's reference library. When an animal is sick or injured at home, chances are you won't have instant access to either a veterinarian or to professional-grade medical supplies. But you will be able to lay your hands on a book that tells you in easy-to-understand terms what to do right now and how, so you can buy your pet some time when it counts most.

This was exactly what pet expert Amy Shojai was hoping for when she came up with the idea for her latest book, "The First Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats" (Rodale, $29.95).

"When working on my previous books I had been researching first aid," said Shojai, the Sherman, Texas- based writer of more than a dozen books on pets. "I was really struck by the fact that most were written by veterinarians who assumed that the pet owner who was reading the book had a chest full of veterinary medical supplies right there."

Shojai even noticed one book that made reference to a stretcher, something even the most well-prepared pet owner wouldn't have on hand. "So I wondered: What do you do when you don't have professional equipment? And it's a no-brainer: You use what's available."

Like using an ironing board for a stretcher. Or a cookie sheet, if the injured animal is a cat or small dog. Plastic food wrap can be used to hold wounds together until the animal can be seen by a veterinarian. And a condom? Shojai says it's ideal for holding a bandage on the paw of a cat or small dog.

Before she started writing about pets, Shojai worked as a veterinary technician. She saw firsthand how many times a pet lover's response to an animal's injury or illness made the difference in determining if the animal later lived or died. In "The First Aid Companion" she draws on her hands-on experiences as well as on the expertise of more than 80 veterinarians to give pet lovers the information they need, at exactly the time they need it most.

More than 150 common medical problems are covered in the book, along with information on how to prevent life-threatening emergencies. Each alphabetically listed entry, from "abdominal wounds" to "worms," offers an immediate assessment of the situation: whether the animal needs to see a veterinarian immediately, relatively quickly, or if the problem can be remedied at home. A "do this now" guide explains what the pet lover's immediate response should be. The layout of the book also helps. It's designed so that each entry covers facing pages, so the book can be opened on a table to leave the pet lover's hands free to help the injured or sick animal. The entries even offer advice on follow-up care after the pet has been treated by a veterinarian.

Shojai take pains to stress that no first-aid book should take the place of a veterinarian's care. Indeed, she makes it clear on every page that her book is meant to complement the efforts of professionals.

"Veterinarians don't want to be the last line of defense," says Shojai. "They want to be the first line, and they want to give a pet a fighting chance. First aid is just that: (BEGIN ITALS)first(END ITALS) aid. It does not replace a veterinarian's care."

"The First Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats" is the first such book I've seen that makes a pet owner a full member of the team when it comes to saving the life of a pet. Along with the number of the nearest emergency veterinary clinic, this book is something every pet lover should keep on hand, just in case.

PETS ON THE WEB

Skunks as pets? They're illegal in most places, strictly regulated in most others and controversial everywhere else. But don't expect to find anything but positive information on the Skunks as Pets Web site (www.skunksaspets.com). The site is definitely pro-skunk.

If you're interested in these animals as pets, please note that you don't just go out and find a wild baby skunk -- pet versions come from breeders and can be surgically altered by a veterinarian so they cannot spray. And they don't just come in black-and-white stripes, but in many different varieties of patterns and markings. The Skunks as Pets site explains it all (although sometimes in type that's a strain on the eyes and needs to be larger).

THE SCOOP

"Lite" varieties of dog food reduce calories per serving by adding fiber to the formula, including such material as peanut hulls and beet pulp. The idea is to make the animal feel full on fewer calories, and in so doing save you from the guilt you'll feel when your pet looks up from his bowl with a forlorn "Is that all I get?" look.

While the strategy likely won't work for cats, you can create your own lower-calorie, higher-fiber meals for your overweight dog by replacing one-third of the daily ration of his everyday food with green beans. Buy them frozen in large bags to reduce costs, and store them thawed in your refrigerator.

Why won't a cat go for green beans? Because while dogs are scavengers, with very broad tolerances when it comes to food, cats are true carnivores. Meat is what cats prefer, and green beans won't tempt the palates of the vast majority of them.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you so much for your great article on dog parks. I help put together dog parks, helping manage them in Santa Rosa, Calif., and I know that common sense is the one thing so many people fail to use. I was especially happy that you recommended removing choke collars. We also recommend taking prong collars off, as the prongs can get stuck in another dog's collar.

The only comment you made that may be a problem is regarding muzzling. We have found that dogs need to be let off the leash prior to entering the park because being restrained when other dogs approach triggers a defensive mechanism in some animals. The same would go for a muzzle. Being unable to protect himself, the dog will feel threatened and at the mercy of all the others, which he will be.

All dogs need to be unrestrained and neutral in a confined area. It helps keep everyone safe. -- Sandi Brown, via e-mail

A: The benefits of dog parks are twofold: exercise and socialization. The use of a box muzzle allows a dog who shouldn't otherwise be in a dog park, because of proven aggressive tendencies, to get the exercise he needs.

Regular sessions of heart-thumping exercise have been shown to be an essential element in resolving behavior problems. A tired dog is more likely to be a good dog and is certainly a happy dog.

I don't believe that other dogs and people should be put at risk so a dog who is known to bite can run free. For those dogs, a comfortable box muzzle is a compromise that allows the benefits of off-leash exercise to extend to all in safety.

Of course, I recommend that anyone with a dog whose aggressiveness is a concern should find a behaviorist who can help with the long-term management of the problem.

Q: After constantly reading that "Beware of Dog" signs are a good home-security device, I was curious as to what your take was on this topic. My main concern is that by using the signs you give the impression that you have a vicious dog, and that people will act improperly toward your dog. -- R.L., via e-mail

A: I don't recommend "Beware of Dog" signs because in these lawsuit-happy times such a posting suggests that you had prior knowledge that your dog could hurt someone. And that could set you up for real trouble. After all, even a friendly dog could cause injury with an exuberant greeting. In my family we still tell the story of when our boxer jumped up to kiss my grandmother. When he landed, he broke her toe. (She didn't sue.)

Instead of "Beware of Dog," post something that makes it clear there are dogs about (and so gives would-be burglars a "stay clear" message) but doesn't offer any statement on the temperament of the pets in question. "Dog(s) in Yard" should fit the bill adequately, and I have on occasion seen these available in hardware stores.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Noodles, who shared his life with one of my best friends, left this world a couple of months ago at the age of what my friend guessed was 17. He was one of my favorite cats, although why I liked him is difficult to explain.

The cat was very unpredictable. Sometimes when I visited he would leap into my lap, purring, while other times I was greeted with a hostile and hate-filled glare. Noodles liked to be petted, up until that moment when he decided he had enough, at which point he'd sink his teeth into your hand.

Those less-agreeable traits aside, I think I liked Noodles because he lived the life he wanted to and beat the odds against his survival. Noodles had been dropped on his head as a kitten, with no apparent ill effect. He spent the rest of his life tempting fate: He ambled across streets in front of speeding cars, taunted dogs, and pretty much did his best to use all of his nine lives before he left. The cat had his own guardian angel, and with Noodles, it was a full-time job.

Other cats I know didn't fare nearly as well as did Noodles, who in the end seemed to run out of time, not luck. In just my circle of friends (not counting those readers who write me), I can count in the last two years more than a half-dozen free-roaming cats who are missing (and presumed dead), four who were found dead (three at the side of a road), two who were backed over by their own family's car, one who was torn apart by a neighbor's loose dog -- the list goes on.

If you're thinking all these hazards are more about living in a developed area than about letting cats roam, consider this: I know one horse trainer who remarked that whatever cat problem she has around her barns is quickly brought into line by the wild predators who consider the animals a tasty meal. People drop cats and kittens off "in the country" thinking that life will be better. It is, for the coyotes.

Why do so many people insist on letting their cats roam? I think a lot of us let our cats out because doing so is what we've always done. Fair enough, but I remember a time when many dogs roamed free, too, and we've decided that's not a good idea. I also remember when nobody spayed or neutered their pets, and when it was considered acceptable to drown unwanted offspring in a bucket, year after year.

We've come a long way since then, and we need to keep moving forward -- not only because it's better for our cats, but also because it's more considerate of our neighbors.

Cats do not need to roam at will. They do need your help to be happy inside, though, with scratching posts, toys, greens for nibbling, and lots and lots of quality time with their favorite people. You can even give them a taste of the outside with access to screened porches, or with back yards equipped with netting to keep cats safely contained. (Directions on how to make cat fencing can be obtained from Alley Cat Allies, (202) 667-3630 or on the Web site at www.alleycat.org/ic_fs_fence.html.)

What's in it for you?

Yes, keeping an indoor cat is more work, mostly because you have to maintain a litter box. But I've noticed over the years that those people who have indoor cats spend more time with their pets, and as a result often end up with a closer bond with the animal. What you'll get out of the deal is the biggest benefit of all: time.

I miss Noodles, and I'm happy he was able to live his life exactly as he wanted to. But I've known too many cats who weren't as lucky as he was. If they'd just been kept inside, they could have made it to old age, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

Breed rescue groups are always struggling to help the most animals on limited amounts of money, and that means making some difficult decisions from time to time. A single homeless stray who has been hit by a car and requires extensive surgery can eat up money that could have saved several healthy dogs, leaving rescue groups in the difficult situation of sacrificing one dog so that others may live.

The LABMED Web site (www.labmed.org) seeks to change this stark reality, at least for homeless Labradors and Labrador mixes. The group funds medical care for those dogs who have a good chance at being an adoptable pet, if only their urgent health problems could be resolved. The Web site is a fund-raiser, collecting money through donations, as well as by selling LABMED merchandise and taking a commission for shoppers sent to other shopping areas through the Web site. The clever idea has paid off: More than 250 Labrador and Labrador mixes have been saved, and their stories on the LABMED site make for inspirational reading.

THE SCOOP

Can you give a cold or flu to your bird? Although the myth is a pervasive one, the answer is likely to be "no." Because human colds and flus are always around, it seems to make sense that when a bird shows similar symptoms -– congestion, coughing and such -– the pet has the same gunk that has been floating around the rest of the family. But it's a good bet there's something else going on with your bird.

If your bird is showing cold or flulike symptoms, don't just figure the problem will pass in the same way a human bug will. Birds are very stoic when it comes to hiding symptoms of illness, and when a bird does show signs of disease, he's often quite sick indeed. So get him in to see an avian veterinarian, pronto.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 5-year-old male Border collie. He is very well-behaved and gets exercised well a minimum of two times a day. He is with me at all times.

My problem is that he won't do the "Come" command. He listens when he feels like it. When he does come, I praise him. Then the next day he will totally ignore me if he is sniffing something. Other than that I consider him to be the perfect pet. Any suggestions? -– S.G., via e-mail

A: Teaching the "Come" command is easy in theory. Put your dog on a "Sit-Stay" on short leash, call his name, say "Come," reel him in with praise, and give more praise and treats when he gets to you. Easy, sure, but have you ever noticed that the majority of dog owners have to cross their fingers when they call their off-leash dogs?

I'm guessing that your dog isn't paying attention to your command for a couple reasons: First, because he really hasn't been thoroughly trained to understand it; and second, because he really doesn't respect you enough to see why he should bother when something more interesting beckons.

You're apparently letting your dog off leash even though you have no expectation that he will come when called. And when you call him, you have no way of getting him to you. You've dealt him a hand with four aces -- is it any wonder why he returns to you only when he feels like it? He's in charge here, not you.

The first thing to do is to keep your dog on leash. He shouldn't be allowed freedom he hasn't earned. For the purpose of exercise, if you want him to run off leash in an enclosed area, play fetch with him (Border collies love this). Don't order him to you because you'll be getting ahead of the game and asking him to do something he doesn't yet understand.

You need to teach your dog what you want, and for that, I'd recommend working with a professional trainer one-on-one for a couple lessons just to learn what you should be doing and to help figure out those things you are getting wrong. Because you've put a bad association in your dog's head with the "Come" command -– which he knows he can ignore -– I'd start over with a new word, such as "Here."

Following the trainer's advice, work with your dog in increments, on a short leash to start with, then on longer leashes and lighter lines. Positive reinforcement -– praise, treats or toys -- are a must. Practice in different places and in different situations: in the house, in the yard, in the park, with your cat walking by, with your kids playing. Never let him get into a position where he learns you really can't do much about it when he bolts.

The trick is building your dog's understanding that the recall has no exceptions: Wherever you are when you call, he should drop what he's doing and come to you. This takes time, patience and practice. Take it slowly, don't take any shortcuts or chances, and keep the trainer's phone number at hand for working through the rough spots.

Q: My Sheltie is almost a year old and well-coated for her age. She does not bark incessantly, but does carry on when anyone comes to visit or when she meets someone she knows when we are walking. Would the citronella collar you've written about get to her nose over all her chest hair? -- L.I., via e-mail

A: The citronella spray anti-bark collar works fine with shelties. I did sheltie rescue in my area for a few years -– the breed is one of my favorites –- and always kept a citronella collar on hand for the noisier of my foster dogs.

The collar releases a spray of citronella when activated by the dog's barking, but it's not necessary for the spray to get on the face. The collar really works by distraction: The "pfffttt" of the spray releasing catches the dog's attention, as does the pungent smell. The dog can't resist taking a whiff, and since he can't bark and sniff at the same time, the disagreeable activity is halted.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600