Noodles, who shared his life with one of my best friends, left this world a couple of months ago at the age of what my friend guessed was 17. He was one of my favorite cats, although why I liked him is difficult to explain.

The cat was very unpredictable. Sometimes when I visited he would leap into my lap, purring, while other times I was greeted with a hostile and hate-filled glare. Noodles liked to be petted, up until that moment when he decided he had enough, at which point he'd sink his teeth into your hand.

Those less-agreeable traits aside, I think I liked Noodles because he lived the life he wanted to and beat the odds against his survival. Noodles had been dropped on his head as a kitten, with no apparent ill effect. He spent the rest of his life tempting fate: He ambled across streets in front of speeding cars, taunted dogs, and pretty much did his best to use all of his nine lives before he left. The cat had his own guardian angel, and with Noodles, it was a full-time job.

Other cats I know didn't fare nearly as well as did Noodles, who in the end seemed to run out of time, not luck. In just my circle of friends (not counting those readers who write me), I can count in the last two years more than a half-dozen free-roaming cats who are missing (and presumed dead), four who were found dead (three at the side of a road), two who were backed over by their own family's car, one who was torn apart by a neighbor's loose dog -- the list goes on.

If you're thinking all these hazards are more about living in a developed area than about letting cats roam, consider this: I know one horse trainer who remarked that whatever cat problem she has around her barns is quickly brought into line by the wild predators who consider the animals a tasty meal. People drop cats and kittens off "in the country" thinking that life will be better. It is, for the coyotes.

Why do so many people insist on letting their cats roam? I think a lot of us let our cats out because doing so is what we've always done. Fair enough, but I remember a time when many dogs roamed free, too, and we've decided that's not a good idea. I also remember when nobody spayed or neutered their pets, and when it was considered acceptable to drown unwanted offspring in a bucket, year after year.

We've come a long way since then, and we need to keep moving forward -- not only because it's better for our cats, but also because it's more considerate of our neighbors.

Cats do not need to roam at will. They do need your help to be happy inside, though, with scratching posts, toys, greens for nibbling, and lots and lots of quality time with their favorite people. You can even give them a taste of the outside with access to screened porches, or with back yards equipped with netting to keep cats safely contained. (Directions on how to make cat fencing can be obtained from Alley Cat Allies, (202) 667-3630 or on the Web site at www.alleycat.org/ic_fs_fence.html.)

What's in it for you?

Yes, keeping an indoor cat is more work, mostly because you have to maintain a litter box. But I've noticed over the years that those people who have indoor cats spend more time with their pets, and as a result often end up with a closer bond with the animal. What you'll get out of the deal is the biggest benefit of all: time.

I miss Noodles, and I'm happy he was able to live his life exactly as he wanted to. But I've known too many cats who weren't as lucky as he was. If they'd just been kept inside, they could have made it to old age, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

Breed rescue groups are always struggling to help the most animals on limited amounts of money, and that means making some difficult decisions from time to time. A single homeless stray who has been hit by a car and requires extensive surgery can eat up money that could have saved several healthy dogs, leaving rescue groups in the difficult situation of sacrificing one dog so that others may live.

The LABMED Web site (www.labmed.org) seeks to change this stark reality, at least for homeless Labradors and Labrador mixes. The group funds medical care for those dogs who have a good chance at being an adoptable pet, if only their urgent health problems could be resolved. The Web site is a fund-raiser, collecting money through donations, as well as by selling LABMED merchandise and taking a commission for shoppers sent to other shopping areas through the Web site. The clever idea has paid off: More than 250 Labrador and Labrador mixes have been saved, and their stories on the LABMED site make for inspirational reading.

THE SCOOP

Can you give a cold or flu to your bird? Although the myth is a pervasive one, the answer is likely to be "no." Because human colds and flus are always around, it seems to make sense that when a bird shows similar symptoms -– congestion, coughing and such -– the pet has the same gunk that has been floating around the rest of the family. But it's a good bet there's something else going on with your bird.

If your bird is showing cold or flulike symptoms, don't just figure the problem will pass in the same way a human bug will. Birds are very stoic when it comes to hiding symptoms of illness, and when a bird does show signs of disease, he's often quite sick indeed. So get him in to see an avian veterinarian, pronto.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 5-year-old male Border collie. He is very well-behaved and gets exercised well a minimum of two times a day. He is with me at all times.

My problem is that he won't do the "Come" command. He listens when he feels like it. When he does come, I praise him. Then the next day he will totally ignore me if he is sniffing something. Other than that I consider him to be the perfect pet. Any suggestions? -– S.G., via e-mail

A: Teaching the "Come" command is easy in theory. Put your dog on a "Sit-Stay" on short leash, call his name, say "Come," reel him in with praise, and give more praise and treats when he gets to you. Easy, sure, but have you ever noticed that the majority of dog owners have to cross their fingers when they call their off-leash dogs?

I'm guessing that your dog isn't paying attention to your command for a couple reasons: First, because he really hasn't been thoroughly trained to understand it; and second, because he really doesn't respect you enough to see why he should bother when something more interesting beckons.

You're apparently letting your dog off leash even though you have no expectation that he will come when called. And when you call him, you have no way of getting him to you. You've dealt him a hand with four aces -- is it any wonder why he returns to you only when he feels like it? He's in charge here, not you.

The first thing to do is to keep your dog on leash. He shouldn't be allowed freedom he hasn't earned. For the purpose of exercise, if you want him to run off leash in an enclosed area, play fetch with him (Border collies love this). Don't order him to you because you'll be getting ahead of the game and asking him to do something he doesn't yet understand.

You need to teach your dog what you want, and for that, I'd recommend working with a professional trainer one-on-one for a couple lessons just to learn what you should be doing and to help figure out those things you are getting wrong. Because you've put a bad association in your dog's head with the "Come" command -– which he knows he can ignore -– I'd start over with a new word, such as "Here."

Following the trainer's advice, work with your dog in increments, on a short leash to start with, then on longer leashes and lighter lines. Positive reinforcement -– praise, treats or toys -- are a must. Practice in different places and in different situations: in the house, in the yard, in the park, with your cat walking by, with your kids playing. Never let him get into a position where he learns you really can't do much about it when he bolts.

The trick is building your dog's understanding that the recall has no exceptions: Wherever you are when you call, he should drop what he's doing and come to you. This takes time, patience and practice. Take it slowly, don't take any shortcuts or chances, and keep the trainer's phone number at hand for working through the rough spots.

Q: My Sheltie is almost a year old and well-coated for her age. She does not bark incessantly, but does carry on when anyone comes to visit or when she meets someone she knows when we are walking. Would the citronella collar you've written about get to her nose over all her chest hair? -- L.I., via e-mail

A: The citronella spray anti-bark collar works fine with shelties. I did sheltie rescue in my area for a few years -– the breed is one of my favorites –- and always kept a citronella collar on hand for the noisier of my foster dogs.

The collar releases a spray of citronella when activated by the dog's barking, but it's not necessary for the spray to get on the face. The collar really works by distraction: The "pfffttt" of the spray releasing catches the dog's attention, as does the pungent smell. The dog can't resist taking a whiff, and since he can't bark and sniff at the same time, the disagreeable activity is halted.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

While we humans have trained dogs to work for us as long as there have been dogs, what we think of as formal dog training is largely a modern development, with techniques drawn from the military.

The Armed Forces don't have companionship high on their list of priorities when training soldiers, be they of a canine or human variety. The military needs to produce members of a fighting team as quickly, efficiently and reliably as possible. The dog training ideas that come from such a mind-set have a lot to do with "breaking" an animal to serve and with training through force.

But what if you're not trying to train a sentry dog or a drug-sniffing dog? What if you just want a sweet family pet with good manners? Do you have to put your pet through traditional training based on military-style techniques? The answer these days is increasingly "no."

Dog training has changed more in the last 10 years than in the 100 that came before it. An increasing number of trainers now put the emphasis on reward-based techniques, and on solving behavior problems by preventing them through proper socialization and by structuring a pup's environment from day one to make doing the right thing the only option.

One of the most exciting developments in dog training in recent years has been the widespread use of a little piece of plastic and metal known as a clicker, a children's toy that makes a clicking sound when the metal part is bent. The clicker first became used in training dolphins and whales at marine parks, and is now common in other kinds of animal training as well.

Why the change? Consider the challenges of training an animal like a dolphin. You can't put a collar and leash on him, and he's too big and slippery to force him into doing what you want to do. So trainers had to come up with a way to communicate, to shape behavior in a nonphysical way. Applying the science of operant conditioning, what they came up with was using a clicker.

Clicker training starts by associating the sound of the clicker with the reward: Fish in the case of dolphins, a dog treat for a canine pupil. Soon the animal understands that the sound of the clicker -- which is easier to time properly than is verbal praise -- means they did right and that they've earned a reward.

In the reverse of the way traditional training works, a behavior is shaped through positive reinforcement first, and then the command (a verbal cue or hand signal) is linked. The dog learns that sitting will get him a click and a reward -- in other words, that the behavior will be reinforced -- and then learns that what he's doing is called "sit." Once that connection is made, he'll perform the behavior when he hears the command.

You can teach a dog most anything with a clicker and a pocketful of treats, and without getting physical. Best of all, clicker training is fun and slightly addictive when you start seeing the results.

I've simplified matters for the sake of space, of course, but clicker training is pretty easy to learn with a couple of lessons. How to get started? Find a trainer in your area who offers classes in clicker training, or buy a book on the subject. The best selection of books on this innovation in training technique can be found through Dogwise, on the Web at www.dogwise.com, or 1-800-776-2665.

As someone who has been training dogs for years and writing about training for almost as long, I'm delighted to see techniques expand beyond those of traditional dog training, and also to watch an increasing number of people open their hearts and minds to new ways of helping our dogs achieve their potential. The payoff is grand, for dogs and people alike.

PETS ON THE WEB

Pets gone wild are considered a nuisance by some and an environmental threat by others. But even knowing this, I find myself rooting for the survival of creatures that any environmental purist would tell you should be exterminated. I'm certainly not alone in my view, as evidenced by The Wild Parrots of San Francisco's Telegraph Hill Web site (www.wildparrots.com).

The site celebrates one of two flocks of San Francisco parrots who are thriving on their own, long after escaping from the cages they once knew as home. There are lots of great details on these birds, along with pictures and historical information. I check on this site at least every couple of months and always end up believing the time was well-spent.

THE SCOOP

If you've ever fantasized about deducting your pets as dependants on your income tax -- and what pet lover hasn't? -- you'd best take away a lesson from the seriously hot water that a tax consultant got into recently. According to the Associated Press, Donald Fletcher suggested at his seminars that it was acceptable to deduct the cost of keeping a cat as a rodent-control expense, and a dog as a security system. The IRS thought differently, and a jury agreed, convicting him of conspiracy. I guess that means I should stop thinking about deducting my pets as a medical expense, even though they do go a long way toward helping me maintain my sanity.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: When Eve the Chihuahua came to our house as a stray, she would eat little nibbles, leave the bowl and then eat a little bit more later. After having her food stolen by our dogs, Eve began to finish her bowl all at once.

Now that we've found her a permanent home, she eats all of her food and then takes the other dog's food as well. This bothers the new family (not to mention Eve's new housemate, a Pomeranian), and it's allowed Eve to become a bit chubby. Is there a way to get Eve back to her cat-like snacking behavior? -- E.O., via e-mail

A: Eve is obviously very bright to have made such a rapid adjustment in the interest of her own survival. I doubt she'll find her way back to nibbling, though.

I'd recommend feeding the dogs separately, once in the morning and once in the late afternoon or evening, and picking up the dishes after 20 minutes to prevent Eve from finishing the other dog's dinner.

No, it's not fair to the other dog, who has been happily munching along in his own pick-a-little style. But when families expand, we all have to make adjustments. That's what my mother told me when both of my younger brothers were born, and she was right. If the dishes are picked up at a set time and no snacking is allowed between meals, the Pomeranian will soon figure out that he needs to eat his meal promptly.

Q: A while back you mentioned growing catnip. Is it really safe to let my cat have all the catnip he wants? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: Put this worry aside. Since our cats don't need to stay alert on the job, pay the bills, get the kids to school or operate heavy machinery, they can afford to be blissed out all the time. So if your cat likes catnip, indulge him to his little heart's content.

By the way, there's a chance your cat won't be affected at all by the stuff. Not all cats like catnip; the ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed into some cats but not others. Kittens under the age of 3 months are also unaffected.

Plant some catnip and see for yourself which camp your cat falls into. I recommend keeping the plant away from your cat until it's well-established, though, because some kitties are so crazy for catnip that they'll pull seedlings out by the roots. Once you've got a good-sized plant, offer your cat fresh sprigs, rub the leaves on scratching posts or cat trees, or stuff them into toys.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Too many pet lovers have the wrong idea about dog training. For them, training is something you have to do because your dog is poorly mannered. In their minds, they compare it to some sort of doggy boot camp -- all barked commands and heavy punishment -- and in so doing make training about as much fun as a slogging through mud on a hot summer's day.

If that's your idea of dog training, let me change your mind.

What dog training should be about is spending time with your pet, building a common language and strengthening the bond between you. Training can be fun for both human and dog, and the results can be a source of pride for both. Rather than restricting your dog by training him, you give him freedom: A well-mannered dog is able to go places others can't, and you'll be more likely to take him out because he's so easy to get along with.

Not long ago, I was competing with my youngest dog at a series of shows in Colorado. I'd left Andy and Ben back home in California with friends, so it was just Heather and me. I hadn't had her all that long (she came to me as a young adult), but we'd grown close quickly because I enjoyed teaching her and she enjoyed learning. When Heather learns something she loves to show it off, performing with flair and as much obvious pride as a child who has printed her own name for the very first time.

The trip was a disaster, from one point of view. Heather wasn't doing well at the shows, and the trip to Colorado proved that she wasn't destined to become a champion. We'd spent a lot of time and money chasing that dream, but at the end of the trip I had nothing to show for it but a well-groomed, soon-to-be-former show dog.

And yet, I remember that trip as one of the most special times I've spent with any of my dogs because the effort I put into training Heather paid off splendidly. That trip showed her to be more ideal a travel companion than any other dog with whom I've ever shared a car.

On the way home we stopped in Aspen and found space in a family-owned hotel. I needed clean clothes, so Heather and I walked to the laundry room, pausing briefly at the hotel office to get some change. I left the dog and the dirty clothes just outside the door.

Her leash wasn't tied to anything. She didn't whine and didn't fidget. She was trained, and she knew what was expected of her. The front clerk at the hotel couldn't have been more amazed if I'd left a movie star out front. (Actually, given that we were in Aspen, a movie star may well be more common than a well-behaved dog.)

I came out, told Heather what a wonderful girl she was, and got a tail-thump or two in acknowledgment. I read while I did the laundry, and Heather napped. She was with me, and she was happy.

No, Heather wasn't destined to be a champion show dog. Over that, I had little control. But by taking the time to train her, I had made her what every dog lover wants and every dog yearns to be: a steady, reliable companion who can go anywhere. Honestly, if I had to choose, I'd pick the dog who's a joy to live with every time.

Next week, I'll write about the latest thinking in dog training and how you can "go positive" in teaching manners to your pet (after that, some easy tricks that you and your pet can have fun learning).

PETS ON THE WEB

Sonic's and Java's Web site (www.positivelife.com/dogs/index.htm) is just about the best "meet my pets" sites I've ever seen. Sonic (a border collie) and Java (a flat-coated retriever) are two active dogs who participate in a variety of sports, such as flyball, agility and obedience, and their owner has put together a site to show off her pups and encourage others to get more involved with training their dogs. A clean, bright design and easy navigation make this site great fun to explore. Be sure to check out the section on trick-training, with clear, step-by-step instructions on how to train your dog to perform any of 25 different behaviors.

THE SCOOP

While clean, fresh water should always be available for all of your pets, this advice is never more essential than during the hot months. For those pets who use a water bottle, check frequently to ensure that the neck isn't blocked by touching your finger gently against the ball at the end of it -- the pressure should release a trickle of water.

Cats like their water fresh, and some prefer it running. While leaving a faucet dripping is too much of a water-waster, you can give in to your cat's whims by purchasing a dish that uses battery power to aerate and recycle water constantly. You'll find these feline fountains advertised in the back of magazines such as Cats and Cat Fancy.

Dogs aren't generally as fussy about water; for them, the focus is more on quantity. If you and your dog are out on hot days, make sure you pack water for you both. An alternative is to pack a collapsible cloth water dish (available at most pet-supply stores and in catalogs) so you can share from the same bottle of water.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am moving across the country to Georgia with my two elderly cats (one is 15 and the other 13). Would it be better for me to ship them via air or to take them in the car? I am told that the temperature in airplane cargo areas can go to as low as 40 degrees. Alternatively, five days in an auto could be fairly stressful for the cats and for me. What's the best way to transport my beloved pets? -- A.B., Sacramento, Calif.

A: The best solution for your cats may well be a plane trip, but not in the cargo hold. Small pets whose carriers will fit under the seat are accepted as carry-on luggage by most airlines, and this may be the best option for your cats. There are limitations as to how many animals are accepted in the cabin on any flight, so be sure to talk to the airline early about your plans. The American Kennel Club posts updates on airline pet policies on its Web site. Go to www.akc.org and put "airline" in the search form for the latest.

If you can't manage flying with your pets in the cabin, a trip by car should be your second choice. Your cats should be comfortable enough in their carriers, and you'll find more hotels than ever before that are happy to accept you and your pets. I just made this trip myself, albeit in the opposite direction, and had no problem finding comfortable, clean and reasonably priced lodging that accepted pets. (The AAA guide to pet-friendly lodging should be in your glove box before you leave.)

Check in with your veterinarian before you go to make sure your pets are in the best possible health for the journey. Although most pets are better off without tranquilizers (especially for air travel), yours may be the exception, and you'll want to discuss that with your veterinarian, too.

Q: Can you suggest a good bird for an apartment? Our walls are paper-thin. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Skip the aratinga conures, such as the jenday and sun. These guys are beautiful and have lively personalities, but they can give your average jet engine a run for its money in a loudness competition. The nanday conure, too, is one heck of a loudmouth.

My top recommendation would probably be a budgie. These parakeets are often dismissed as pets suitable for children only, but those who count them out are selling them sort. Budgies don't take up much space and don't make much noise. Even better, they can be affectionate companions and are quite capable of learning how to talk.

Other birds to consider: cockatiels and lovebirds, who are a little bigger and less likely to talk than the budgie, but who also make affectionate pets. Next up in size: the handsome and playful Senegal parrot, one of my very favorite birds.

If you want a bigger bird, consider the pionus parrot. These birds are considered among the quietest of all parrots commonly kept as pets. Often overlooked because they're not as flashy in appearance as other parrots, the pionus is an easygoing bird who's a perfect choice both for first-time or experienced bird-keepers.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600