While we humans have trained dogs to work for us as long as there have been dogs, what we think of as formal dog training is largely a modern development, with techniques drawn from the military.

The Armed Forces don't have companionship high on their list of priorities when training soldiers, be they of a canine or human variety. The military needs to produce members of a fighting team as quickly, efficiently and reliably as possible. The dog training ideas that come from such a mind-set have a lot to do with "breaking" an animal to serve and with training through force.

But what if you're not trying to train a sentry dog or a drug-sniffing dog? What if you just want a sweet family pet with good manners? Do you have to put your pet through traditional training based on military-style techniques? The answer these days is increasingly "no."

Dog training has changed more in the last 10 years than in the 100 that came before it. An increasing number of trainers now put the emphasis on reward-based techniques, and on solving behavior problems by preventing them through proper socialization and by structuring a pup's environment from day one to make doing the right thing the only option.

One of the most exciting developments in dog training in recent years has been the widespread use of a little piece of plastic and metal known as a clicker, a children's toy that makes a clicking sound when the metal part is bent. The clicker first became used in training dolphins and whales at marine parks, and is now common in other kinds of animal training as well.

Why the change? Consider the challenges of training an animal like a dolphin. You can't put a collar and leash on him, and he's too big and slippery to force him into doing what you want to do. So trainers had to come up with a way to communicate, to shape behavior in a nonphysical way. Applying the science of operant conditioning, what they came up with was using a clicker.

Clicker training starts by associating the sound of the clicker with the reward: Fish in the case of dolphins, a dog treat for a canine pupil. Soon the animal understands that the sound of the clicker -- which is easier to time properly than is verbal praise -- means they did right and that they've earned a reward.

In the reverse of the way traditional training works, a behavior is shaped through positive reinforcement first, and then the command (a verbal cue or hand signal) is linked. The dog learns that sitting will get him a click and a reward -- in other words, that the behavior will be reinforced -- and then learns that what he's doing is called "sit." Once that connection is made, he'll perform the behavior when he hears the command.

You can teach a dog most anything with a clicker and a pocketful of treats, and without getting physical. Best of all, clicker training is fun and slightly addictive when you start seeing the results.

I've simplified matters for the sake of space, of course, but clicker training is pretty easy to learn with a couple of lessons. How to get started? Find a trainer in your area who offers classes in clicker training, or buy a book on the subject. The best selection of books on this innovation in training technique can be found through Dogwise, on the Web at www.dogwise.com, or 1-800-776-2665.

As someone who has been training dogs for years and writing about training for almost as long, I'm delighted to see techniques expand beyond those of traditional dog training, and also to watch an increasing number of people open their hearts and minds to new ways of helping our dogs achieve their potential. The payoff is grand, for dogs and people alike.

PETS ON THE WEB

Pets gone wild are considered a nuisance by some and an environmental threat by others. But even knowing this, I find myself rooting for the survival of creatures that any environmental purist would tell you should be exterminated. I'm certainly not alone in my view, as evidenced by The Wild Parrots of San Francisco's Telegraph Hill Web site (www.wildparrots.com).

The site celebrates one of two flocks of San Francisco parrots who are thriving on their own, long after escaping from the cages they once knew as home. There are lots of great details on these birds, along with pictures and historical information. I check on this site at least every couple of months and always end up believing the time was well-spent.

THE SCOOP

If you've ever fantasized about deducting your pets as dependants on your income tax -- and what pet lover hasn't? -- you'd best take away a lesson from the seriously hot water that a tax consultant got into recently. According to the Associated Press, Donald Fletcher suggested at his seminars that it was acceptable to deduct the cost of keeping a cat as a rodent-control expense, and a dog as a security system. The IRS thought differently, and a jury agreed, convicting him of conspiracy. I guess that means I should stop thinking about deducting my pets as a medical expense, even though they do go a long way toward helping me maintain my sanity.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: When Eve the Chihuahua came to our house as a stray, she would eat little nibbles, leave the bowl and then eat a little bit more later. After having her food stolen by our dogs, Eve began to finish her bowl all at once.

Now that we've found her a permanent home, she eats all of her food and then takes the other dog's food as well. This bothers the new family (not to mention Eve's new housemate, a Pomeranian), and it's allowed Eve to become a bit chubby. Is there a way to get Eve back to her cat-like snacking behavior? -- E.O., via e-mail

A: Eve is obviously very bright to have made such a rapid adjustment in the interest of her own survival. I doubt she'll find her way back to nibbling, though.

I'd recommend feeding the dogs separately, once in the morning and once in the late afternoon or evening, and picking up the dishes after 20 minutes to prevent Eve from finishing the other dog's dinner.

No, it's not fair to the other dog, who has been happily munching along in his own pick-a-little style. But when families expand, we all have to make adjustments. That's what my mother told me when both of my younger brothers were born, and she was right. If the dishes are picked up at a set time and no snacking is allowed between meals, the Pomeranian will soon figure out that he needs to eat his meal promptly.

Q: A while back you mentioned growing catnip. Is it really safe to let my cat have all the catnip he wants? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: Put this worry aside. Since our cats don't need to stay alert on the job, pay the bills, get the kids to school or operate heavy machinery, they can afford to be blissed out all the time. So if your cat likes catnip, indulge him to his little heart's content.

By the way, there's a chance your cat won't be affected at all by the stuff. Not all cats like catnip; the ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed into some cats but not others. Kittens under the age of 3 months are also unaffected.

Plant some catnip and see for yourself which camp your cat falls into. I recommend keeping the plant away from your cat until it's well-established, though, because some kitties are so crazy for catnip that they'll pull seedlings out by the roots. Once you've got a good-sized plant, offer your cat fresh sprigs, rub the leaves on scratching posts or cat trees, or stuff them into toys.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Too many pet lovers have the wrong idea about dog training. For them, training is something you have to do because your dog is poorly mannered. In their minds, they compare it to some sort of doggy boot camp -- all barked commands and heavy punishment -- and in so doing make training about as much fun as a slogging through mud on a hot summer's day.

If that's your idea of dog training, let me change your mind.

What dog training should be about is spending time with your pet, building a common language and strengthening the bond between you. Training can be fun for both human and dog, and the results can be a source of pride for both. Rather than restricting your dog by training him, you give him freedom: A well-mannered dog is able to go places others can't, and you'll be more likely to take him out because he's so easy to get along with.

Not long ago, I was competing with my youngest dog at a series of shows in Colorado. I'd left Andy and Ben back home in California with friends, so it was just Heather and me. I hadn't had her all that long (she came to me as a young adult), but we'd grown close quickly because I enjoyed teaching her and she enjoyed learning. When Heather learns something she loves to show it off, performing with flair and as much obvious pride as a child who has printed her own name for the very first time.

The trip was a disaster, from one point of view. Heather wasn't doing well at the shows, and the trip to Colorado proved that she wasn't destined to become a champion. We'd spent a lot of time and money chasing that dream, but at the end of the trip I had nothing to show for it but a well-groomed, soon-to-be-former show dog.

And yet, I remember that trip as one of the most special times I've spent with any of my dogs because the effort I put into training Heather paid off splendidly. That trip showed her to be more ideal a travel companion than any other dog with whom I've ever shared a car.

On the way home we stopped in Aspen and found space in a family-owned hotel. I needed clean clothes, so Heather and I walked to the laundry room, pausing briefly at the hotel office to get some change. I left the dog and the dirty clothes just outside the door.

Her leash wasn't tied to anything. She didn't whine and didn't fidget. She was trained, and she knew what was expected of her. The front clerk at the hotel couldn't have been more amazed if I'd left a movie star out front. (Actually, given that we were in Aspen, a movie star may well be more common than a well-behaved dog.)

I came out, told Heather what a wonderful girl she was, and got a tail-thump or two in acknowledgment. I read while I did the laundry, and Heather napped. She was with me, and she was happy.

No, Heather wasn't destined to be a champion show dog. Over that, I had little control. But by taking the time to train her, I had made her what every dog lover wants and every dog yearns to be: a steady, reliable companion who can go anywhere. Honestly, if I had to choose, I'd pick the dog who's a joy to live with every time.

Next week, I'll write about the latest thinking in dog training and how you can "go positive" in teaching manners to your pet (after that, some easy tricks that you and your pet can have fun learning).

PETS ON THE WEB

Sonic's and Java's Web site (www.positivelife.com/dogs/index.htm) is just about the best "meet my pets" sites I've ever seen. Sonic (a border collie) and Java (a flat-coated retriever) are two active dogs who participate in a variety of sports, such as flyball, agility and obedience, and their owner has put together a site to show off her pups and encourage others to get more involved with training their dogs. A clean, bright design and easy navigation make this site great fun to explore. Be sure to check out the section on trick-training, with clear, step-by-step instructions on how to train your dog to perform any of 25 different behaviors.

THE SCOOP

While clean, fresh water should always be available for all of your pets, this advice is never more essential than during the hot months. For those pets who use a water bottle, check frequently to ensure that the neck isn't blocked by touching your finger gently against the ball at the end of it -- the pressure should release a trickle of water.

Cats like their water fresh, and some prefer it running. While leaving a faucet dripping is too much of a water-waster, you can give in to your cat's whims by purchasing a dish that uses battery power to aerate and recycle water constantly. You'll find these feline fountains advertised in the back of magazines such as Cats and Cat Fancy.

Dogs aren't generally as fussy about water; for them, the focus is more on quantity. If you and your dog are out on hot days, make sure you pack water for you both. An alternative is to pack a collapsible cloth water dish (available at most pet-supply stores and in catalogs) so you can share from the same bottle of water.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am moving across the country to Georgia with my two elderly cats (one is 15 and the other 13). Would it be better for me to ship them via air or to take them in the car? I am told that the temperature in airplane cargo areas can go to as low as 40 degrees. Alternatively, five days in an auto could be fairly stressful for the cats and for me. What's the best way to transport my beloved pets? -- A.B., Sacramento, Calif.

A: The best solution for your cats may well be a plane trip, but not in the cargo hold. Small pets whose carriers will fit under the seat are accepted as carry-on luggage by most airlines, and this may be the best option for your cats. There are limitations as to how many animals are accepted in the cabin on any flight, so be sure to talk to the airline early about your plans. The American Kennel Club posts updates on airline pet policies on its Web site. Go to www.akc.org and put "airline" in the search form for the latest.

If you can't manage flying with your pets in the cabin, a trip by car should be your second choice. Your cats should be comfortable enough in their carriers, and you'll find more hotels than ever before that are happy to accept you and your pets. I just made this trip myself, albeit in the opposite direction, and had no problem finding comfortable, clean and reasonably priced lodging that accepted pets. (The AAA guide to pet-friendly lodging should be in your glove box before you leave.)

Check in with your veterinarian before you go to make sure your pets are in the best possible health for the journey. Although most pets are better off without tranquilizers (especially for air travel), yours may be the exception, and you'll want to discuss that with your veterinarian, too.

Q: Can you suggest a good bird for an apartment? Our walls are paper-thin. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Skip the aratinga conures, such as the jenday and sun. These guys are beautiful and have lively personalities, but they can give your average jet engine a run for its money in a loudness competition. The nanday conure, too, is one heck of a loudmouth.

My top recommendation would probably be a budgie. These parakeets are often dismissed as pets suitable for children only, but those who count them out are selling them sort. Budgies don't take up much space and don't make much noise. Even better, they can be affectionate companions and are quite capable of learning how to talk.

Other birds to consider: cockatiels and lovebirds, who are a little bigger and less likely to talk than the budgie, but who also make affectionate pets. Next up in size: the handsome and playful Senegal parrot, one of my very favorite birds.

If you want a bigger bird, consider the pionus parrot. These birds are considered among the quietest of all parrots commonly kept as pets. Often overlooked because they're not as flashy in appearance as other parrots, the pionus is an easygoing bird who's a perfect choice both for first-time or experienced bird-keepers.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For the indoor-only cat, plants are an important part of an ideal environment that should also include a variety of toys, cat trees and scratching posts, and screened porches or window perches that allow the intriguing scents of the hazardous world outside safely into a cat's life.

Although the indoor life is far safer for cats and is gaining favor among cat lovers, household confinement does have some hazards, and plants are certainly among them.

If your cat loves to nibble on houseplants, make sure poisonous plants are not on the menu. "The Cornell Book of Cats" (Random House, $35) warns that many common houseplants can make your cat ill, and a few can be deadly. Among the most dangerous are dieffenbachia, lily of the valley and philodendron. Various ivies and yews can be troublesome, too, and the bulbs of plants popular for "forcing" into early indoor bloom -- such as amaryllis, daffodils and tulips -- can cause problems for the cat that likes to dig and chew.

The other problem with cats and houseplants is strictly irritation -- not to the pet's system, but to the owner's. Some cats are industrious destroyers of household greenery, while others like to kick dirt around or even use larger pots as litter boxes. All of which makes perfect sense to your cat, annoying as it may be to you.

Can people, cats and plants co-exist? With an understanding of your cat's needs and a consistent approach to the problem, you bet they can.

Understand that your cat needs and wants plants in your home. Indulge your pet by keeping planters of sprouting grasses growing in an accessible place for nibbling. Special blends of seeds for cats are available in pet stores and specialty shops, or you can purchase rye grass seeds at the nursery.

Catnip, too, is something that's always better when fresh, as is valerian. While not all cats react to the pleasures of these plants, those that do will appreciate your keeping it in-house, and using fresh cuttings to recharge cat posts and toys.

When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from yours. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet: Hang them!

For the plants you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating them with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to reinforce the point. You can also discourage your pet by shooting him with the spray from a water bottle when you see him in the plants.

Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers, and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less-attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil. Another possibility: The people who make the Sticky Paws strips that discourage furniture-scratching also make a similar product that fits inside planters to halt feline explorations. (For more information, the company can be found online at www.stickypaws.com, or by phoning 817-926-3023.)

Remember that resolving behavior problems often takes time and involves a bit of compromise on your part. Give your cats the greens he wants, protect him from the ones that might hurt him, and make the rest less attractive to him. And one day, a lush indoor garden will be yours for both you and your cat to enjoy.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Animal Hospital Association has put together the Healthy Pet Web site (www.healthypet.com) to offer basic pet-care information on most of the animals commonly kept as pets. The site does focus primarily on dog and cat care, though, and for these pets you'll find dozens of useful documents on such topics as aggression, cancer, preventive health care and traveling. Also included are posters that can be printed out for children to color, and there's a search engine to help locate an AAHA-member veterinary hospital. In all, a well-organized and helpful Web site.

THE SCOOP

If you can imagine what it's like to spend a rather large part of your life in a relatively small cage, then you can also see why toys are so important to birds. Toys give these pets a chance to use their considerable brainpower, exercise their bodies, and relieve the stresses of confinement and boredom. Check out the selection at any reputable bird shop, and don't forget to improvise with cheap and safe household items that can be recycled into toys.

The cardboard cores of toilet paper and paper towel rolls, for example, are great for shredding. Other items that will last longer include old toothbrushes, plastic bottle tops, measuring cups, spoons, and ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed. For these items, wash in warm, soapy water and rinse well before giving them to your bird, or run them through a cycle in your dishwasher.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm writing about the letter concerning the terrier with a barking problem. We will accept barking from our dogs -- they are telling us something is going on that we should know about. We tell them the standard "Good girl" and then "It's OK; stop" or words like that. When they don't stop barking, we then shake an aluminum pop can with several pennies in it, saying, "(name), no bark." (By the way, the pop can is empty except for the pennies.)

This method has worked on the four dogs we have. It gets to the point where their barking is very limited now after a few "arfs." But the few times they get carried away, we just show them the pop can and that quiets them down. There's no harsh punishment toward them for doing (what they think is) their job, and we get peace and quiet.

Will you share this tip to help people with barking dogs? Dogs do not like the sound of those pennies! -- W.M.K., Orleans, Indiana

A: Yes, the pennies-in-a-can trick has been around for years, and it's certainly worth trying. You've also managed to get the balance right, in praising your dogs for barking and then asking them to stop. When you do this, you change the behavior from something your dog is doing on her own to something your dog is doing that you've interjected some control over.

Of course, any bark-stopping method that requires a human presence has its limitations -- you can't always be there to correct barking. That's why it's so important for the sake of your neighbors' sanity to arrange your dog's living situation to remove or limit the triggers that make your dog fire up the yap machine.

I recommend keeping a barker inside when the family is gone. Inside the house, blocking access to front windows will keep the animal from seeing people go by, and leaving on a radio will help to muffle audio triggers such as car doors slamming.

By the way, I received a flurry of e-mails asking where to find the citronella anti-bark collar I mentioned previously. Try the Doctors Foster and Smith catalog, either online at www.drsfostersmith.com, or by phone: 800-381-7179.

Q: How old must a kitten be before being spayed? We went to look at kittens at the shelter, and they insist the babies be fixed before adoption, which seems a little young to us. -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Puppies and kittens can be safely neutered as young as 8 weeks, and studies have consistently shown no long-term problems with health or behavior for surgeries that are done earlier than the 4- to 6-month ideal previously considered standard procedure.

If your shelter's policy is to insist on early spay-neuter, I wouldn't let that deter you from adopting a kitten there. On the contrary, such policies show that the organization is actively fighting pet overpopulation by trying to stop the kittens-out, kittens-in cycle that happens when last year's babies become this year's parents.

If you end up with a kitten from another source, follow your veterinarian's advice on when to alter your pet. Although early spay-neuter is safe, not all veterinarians are comfortable with performing the operation that early.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600