Too many pet lovers have the wrong idea about dog training. For them, training is something you have to do because your dog is poorly mannered. In their minds, they compare it to some sort of doggy boot camp -- all barked commands and heavy punishment -- and in so doing make training about as much fun as a slogging through mud on a hot summer's day.

If that's your idea of dog training, let me change your mind.

What dog training should be about is spending time with your pet, building a common language and strengthening the bond between you. Training can be fun for both human and dog, and the results can be a source of pride for both. Rather than restricting your dog by training him, you give him freedom: A well-mannered dog is able to go places others can't, and you'll be more likely to take him out because he's so easy to get along with.

Not long ago, I was competing with my youngest dog at a series of shows in Colorado. I'd left Andy and Ben back home in California with friends, so it was just Heather and me. I hadn't had her all that long (she came to me as a young adult), but we'd grown close quickly because I enjoyed teaching her and she enjoyed learning. When Heather learns something she loves to show it off, performing with flair and as much obvious pride as a child who has printed her own name for the very first time.

The trip was a disaster, from one point of view. Heather wasn't doing well at the shows, and the trip to Colorado proved that she wasn't destined to become a champion. We'd spent a lot of time and money chasing that dream, but at the end of the trip I had nothing to show for it but a well-groomed, soon-to-be-former show dog.

And yet, I remember that trip as one of the most special times I've spent with any of my dogs because the effort I put into training Heather paid off splendidly. That trip showed her to be more ideal a travel companion than any other dog with whom I've ever shared a car.

On the way home we stopped in Aspen and found space in a family-owned hotel. I needed clean clothes, so Heather and I walked to the laundry room, pausing briefly at the hotel office to get some change. I left the dog and the dirty clothes just outside the door.

Her leash wasn't tied to anything. She didn't whine and didn't fidget. She was trained, and she knew what was expected of her. The front clerk at the hotel couldn't have been more amazed if I'd left a movie star out front. (Actually, given that we were in Aspen, a movie star may well be more common than a well-behaved dog.)

I came out, told Heather what a wonderful girl she was, and got a tail-thump or two in acknowledgment. I read while I did the laundry, and Heather napped. She was with me, and she was happy.

No, Heather wasn't destined to be a champion show dog. Over that, I had little control. But by taking the time to train her, I had made her what every dog lover wants and every dog yearns to be: a steady, reliable companion who can go anywhere. Honestly, if I had to choose, I'd pick the dog who's a joy to live with every time.

Next week, I'll write about the latest thinking in dog training and how you can "go positive" in teaching manners to your pet (after that, some easy tricks that you and your pet can have fun learning).

PETS ON THE WEB

Sonic's and Java's Web site (www.positivelife.com/dogs/index.htm) is just about the best "meet my pets" sites I've ever seen. Sonic (a border collie) and Java (a flat-coated retriever) are two active dogs who participate in a variety of sports, such as flyball, agility and obedience, and their owner has put together a site to show off her pups and encourage others to get more involved with training their dogs. A clean, bright design and easy navigation make this site great fun to explore. Be sure to check out the section on trick-training, with clear, step-by-step instructions on how to train your dog to perform any of 25 different behaviors.

THE SCOOP

While clean, fresh water should always be available for all of your pets, this advice is never more essential than during the hot months. For those pets who use a water bottle, check frequently to ensure that the neck isn't blocked by touching your finger gently against the ball at the end of it -- the pressure should release a trickle of water.

Cats like their water fresh, and some prefer it running. While leaving a faucet dripping is too much of a water-waster, you can give in to your cat's whims by purchasing a dish that uses battery power to aerate and recycle water constantly. You'll find these feline fountains advertised in the back of magazines such as Cats and Cat Fancy.

Dogs aren't generally as fussy about water; for them, the focus is more on quantity. If you and your dog are out on hot days, make sure you pack water for you both. An alternative is to pack a collapsible cloth water dish (available at most pet-supply stores and in catalogs) so you can share from the same bottle of water.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am moving across the country to Georgia with my two elderly cats (one is 15 and the other 13). Would it be better for me to ship them via air or to take them in the car? I am told that the temperature in airplane cargo areas can go to as low as 40 degrees. Alternatively, five days in an auto could be fairly stressful for the cats and for me. What's the best way to transport my beloved pets? -- A.B., Sacramento, Calif.

A: The best solution for your cats may well be a plane trip, but not in the cargo hold. Small pets whose carriers will fit under the seat are accepted as carry-on luggage by most airlines, and this may be the best option for your cats. There are limitations as to how many animals are accepted in the cabin on any flight, so be sure to talk to the airline early about your plans. The American Kennel Club posts updates on airline pet policies on its Web site. Go to www.akc.org and put "airline" in the search form for the latest.

If you can't manage flying with your pets in the cabin, a trip by car should be your second choice. Your cats should be comfortable enough in their carriers, and you'll find more hotels than ever before that are happy to accept you and your pets. I just made this trip myself, albeit in the opposite direction, and had no problem finding comfortable, clean and reasonably priced lodging that accepted pets. (The AAA guide to pet-friendly lodging should be in your glove box before you leave.)

Check in with your veterinarian before you go to make sure your pets are in the best possible health for the journey. Although most pets are better off without tranquilizers (especially for air travel), yours may be the exception, and you'll want to discuss that with your veterinarian, too.

Q: Can you suggest a good bird for an apartment? Our walls are paper-thin. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Skip the aratinga conures, such as the jenday and sun. These guys are beautiful and have lively personalities, but they can give your average jet engine a run for its money in a loudness competition. The nanday conure, too, is one heck of a loudmouth.

My top recommendation would probably be a budgie. These parakeets are often dismissed as pets suitable for children only, but those who count them out are selling them sort. Budgies don't take up much space and don't make much noise. Even better, they can be affectionate companions and are quite capable of learning how to talk.

Other birds to consider: cockatiels and lovebirds, who are a little bigger and less likely to talk than the budgie, but who also make affectionate pets. Next up in size: the handsome and playful Senegal parrot, one of my very favorite birds.

If you want a bigger bird, consider the pionus parrot. These birds are considered among the quietest of all parrots commonly kept as pets. Often overlooked because they're not as flashy in appearance as other parrots, the pionus is an easygoing bird who's a perfect choice both for first-time or experienced bird-keepers.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For the indoor-only cat, plants are an important part of an ideal environment that should also include a variety of toys, cat trees and scratching posts, and screened porches or window perches that allow the intriguing scents of the hazardous world outside safely into a cat's life.

Although the indoor life is far safer for cats and is gaining favor among cat lovers, household confinement does have some hazards, and plants are certainly among them.

If your cat loves to nibble on houseplants, make sure poisonous plants are not on the menu. "The Cornell Book of Cats" (Random House, $35) warns that many common houseplants can make your cat ill, and a few can be deadly. Among the most dangerous are dieffenbachia, lily of the valley and philodendron. Various ivies and yews can be troublesome, too, and the bulbs of plants popular for "forcing" into early indoor bloom -- such as amaryllis, daffodils and tulips -- can cause problems for the cat that likes to dig and chew.

The other problem with cats and houseplants is strictly irritation -- not to the pet's system, but to the owner's. Some cats are industrious destroyers of household greenery, while others like to kick dirt around or even use larger pots as litter boxes. All of which makes perfect sense to your cat, annoying as it may be to you.

Can people, cats and plants co-exist? With an understanding of your cat's needs and a consistent approach to the problem, you bet they can.

Understand that your cat needs and wants plants in your home. Indulge your pet by keeping planters of sprouting grasses growing in an accessible place for nibbling. Special blends of seeds for cats are available in pet stores and specialty shops, or you can purchase rye grass seeds at the nursery.

Catnip, too, is something that's always better when fresh, as is valerian. While not all cats react to the pleasures of these plants, those that do will appreciate your keeping it in-house, and using fresh cuttings to recharge cat posts and toys.

When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from yours. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet: Hang them!

For the plants you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating them with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to reinforce the point. You can also discourage your pet by shooting him with the spray from a water bottle when you see him in the plants.

Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers, and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less-attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil. Another possibility: The people who make the Sticky Paws strips that discourage furniture-scratching also make a similar product that fits inside planters to halt feline explorations. (For more information, the company can be found online at www.stickypaws.com, or by phoning 817-926-3023.)

Remember that resolving behavior problems often takes time and involves a bit of compromise on your part. Give your cats the greens he wants, protect him from the ones that might hurt him, and make the rest less attractive to him. And one day, a lush indoor garden will be yours for both you and your cat to enjoy.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Animal Hospital Association has put together the Healthy Pet Web site (www.healthypet.com) to offer basic pet-care information on most of the animals commonly kept as pets. The site does focus primarily on dog and cat care, though, and for these pets you'll find dozens of useful documents on such topics as aggression, cancer, preventive health care and traveling. Also included are posters that can be printed out for children to color, and there's a search engine to help locate an AAHA-member veterinary hospital. In all, a well-organized and helpful Web site.

THE SCOOP

If you can imagine what it's like to spend a rather large part of your life in a relatively small cage, then you can also see why toys are so important to birds. Toys give these pets a chance to use their considerable brainpower, exercise their bodies, and relieve the stresses of confinement and boredom. Check out the selection at any reputable bird shop, and don't forget to improvise with cheap and safe household items that can be recycled into toys.

The cardboard cores of toilet paper and paper towel rolls, for example, are great for shredding. Other items that will last longer include old toothbrushes, plastic bottle tops, measuring cups, spoons, and ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed. For these items, wash in warm, soapy water and rinse well before giving them to your bird, or run them through a cycle in your dishwasher.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm writing about the letter concerning the terrier with a barking problem. We will accept barking from our dogs -- they are telling us something is going on that we should know about. We tell them the standard "Good girl" and then "It's OK; stop" or words like that. When they don't stop barking, we then shake an aluminum pop can with several pennies in it, saying, "(name), no bark." (By the way, the pop can is empty except for the pennies.)

This method has worked on the four dogs we have. It gets to the point where their barking is very limited now after a few "arfs." But the few times they get carried away, we just show them the pop can and that quiets them down. There's no harsh punishment toward them for doing (what they think is) their job, and we get peace and quiet.

Will you share this tip to help people with barking dogs? Dogs do not like the sound of those pennies! -- W.M.K., Orleans, Indiana

A: Yes, the pennies-in-a-can trick has been around for years, and it's certainly worth trying. You've also managed to get the balance right, in praising your dogs for barking and then asking them to stop. When you do this, you change the behavior from something your dog is doing on her own to something your dog is doing that you've interjected some control over.

Of course, any bark-stopping method that requires a human presence has its limitations -- you can't always be there to correct barking. That's why it's so important for the sake of your neighbors' sanity to arrange your dog's living situation to remove or limit the triggers that make your dog fire up the yap machine.

I recommend keeping a barker inside when the family is gone. Inside the house, blocking access to front windows will keep the animal from seeing people go by, and leaving on a radio will help to muffle audio triggers such as car doors slamming.

By the way, I received a flurry of e-mails asking where to find the citronella anti-bark collar I mentioned previously. Try the Doctors Foster and Smith catalog, either online at www.drsfostersmith.com, or by phone: 800-381-7179.

Q: How old must a kitten be before being spayed? We went to look at kittens at the shelter, and they insist the babies be fixed before adoption, which seems a little young to us. -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Puppies and kittens can be safely neutered as young as 8 weeks, and studies have consistently shown no long-term problems with health or behavior for surgeries that are done earlier than the 4- to 6-month ideal previously considered standard procedure.

If your shelter's policy is to insist on early spay-neuter, I wouldn't let that deter you from adopting a kitten there. On the contrary, such policies show that the organization is actively fighting pet overpopulation by trying to stop the kittens-out, kittens-in cycle that happens when last year's babies become this year's parents.

If you end up with a kitten from another source, follow your veterinarian's advice on when to alter your pet. Although early spay-neuter is safe, not all veterinarians are comfortable with performing the operation that early.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A friend was telling me about a problem he'd had at his local fast-food outlet. An older, larger child in the play area was pushing around a smaller boy while the bully's parents looked on, oblivious.

The friend waited for the parents to do something about the problem child, and when that didn't happen, he went over to speak with them about removing their son. "They're just playing," the other dad said, and both men exchanged a few less-than-polite words before the bully's parents picked up their son and left.

Being the non-confrontational type, my first thought was to be amazed that no one ended up shot. My second was how much the story reminded me of my local dog park.

Since this is a pet column, it's not my place to comment about poorly behaved children or clueless parents. But ill-mannered dogs and their oblivious owners? That's another thing entirely.

Don't get me wrong: I'm a strong supporter of dog parks. A lot of the problems we have with dogs are caused by a lack of exercise, poor socialization or both. And I'm happy to see that an increasing number of communities are giving dog lovers fenced areas to unleash their pets.

Dog parks are run by peer pressure, and it's generally a good system. Most dog lovers know that having such areas is a privilege, hard-won and still considered experimental by many public officials. We come down hard on people who don't respect the rules, especially when it comes to picking up after their pets.

But what about the problems that are more about common sense and common civility? These things pop up now and then, thanks to people who may lack both.

The biggest lapse in common sense: leaving a choke collar on your dog after you take off the leash. Putting aside the frequent overuse and misuse of this piece of training equipment, every dog lover should realize that choke collars are not intended to be left on a dog without the leash attached. The moving ring can be easily caught -- on the tooth of another dog in play, for example -- and once that happens, the natural tendency of an animal to pull away from danger puts into play the natural tendency of the collar to choke when tightened. This situation is dangerous, both for the dog and for anyone who tries to free him, who may be bitten by the panicking pet.

Problems of the civility variety come from people who allow their dogs to annoy other pets or people. Sometimes a dog will just get it in his head that he's going to pick out one person or pet to pester. If your dog is ruining the enjoyment of the park for another user, get out your leash and call it a day, or at least engage your pet in a game of fetch on the other side of the enclosure.

Then there are the people who seem to have neither common sense nor common civility: the ones bringing dogs that get into fights. Dogs that are flat-out aggressive have no business being off-leash anywhere, including a dog park, but I'm a little more tolerant of those animals that now and then get wound up in play to the point of an altercation. The solution for these dogs is easy: Keep them muzzled. A wire box muzzle allows a dog to breathe easily and pant, but keeps the teeth out of play while the pet is getting the exercise he needs.

The problems in dog parks aren't that common, but they would be almost unheard of if people just used their heads. Being more careful and considerate is the best way I know to ensure that there'll be dog parks for our pets to enjoy for a long time to come.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want to keep up on the latest dog-related news from around the world? Then make it a point to visit The Scoop: Dogs in the News (http://dogsinthenews.com) on a regular basis. The Web site looks for dog stories of all kinds -- funny, quirky, irritating or just plain interesting -- and lists the links in reverse chronological order.

The take on the news is definitely pro-dog, as the editorial comments attached to many pieces make very clear. Each story offers a link to a discussion board, where visitors can add their opinions to the mix.

THE SCOOP

Looking for a non-chemical weapon in the fight against fleas? Chances are, two of the best are already in your home: a washing machine and a vacuum cleaner.

Washing pet bedding on at least a weekly basis will help to kill fleas of all life stages -- eggs, larvae and adults. Bedding that cannot be washed is a fertile breeding ground for generation after generation of fleas, so it's best to use beds that can handle wash-and-dry cycles with ease.

Regular vacuuming of areas where pets frequent also breaks the flea breeding cycle. Empty the canister immediately after use, to prevent your vacuum cleaner from becoming a flea nursery. If your cleaner uses bags, put in some flea powder or a piece of flea collar to kill the pests.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have always had big dogs. But since my husband and I are in our 70s now, we decided that when our last shepherd died that having a small dog would be a better idea. A few months ago we got an adorable Maltese pup.

Cindy is a sweetie, and we love her. But we don't seem to be having much luck getting her house-trained. She just doesn't seem to get the concept, even though we've put her nose in the mess and spanked her. Help! -- C.M., via e-mail

A: Toy dogs are notoriously hard to house-train, but it can usually be accomplished with consistency, praise and lots of patience. Please notice that "punishment" is not on that list, so stop with the swat right now, and vow to never put your pup's nose in another mess.

The first step in house-training a toy breed, according to small-dog expert Darlene Arden, author of "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" (Hungry Minds Inc., $17.95), is to make sure your dog will feel safe in the outside spot you've chosen for her to use.

The act of elimination is one when a dog's guard is down, and when you weigh 10 pounds or less, it's important to feel that you're not going to be attacked. "They feel vulnerable," says Arden. "You need to find that one very safe spot for them." And keep the grass short so the dog doesn't feel as if he's hacking through a jungle, she adds.

Once your dog has that safe spot outside, you put your house-training plan in place.

"Feed on a schedule," says Arden, "and be aware of when the puppy has to go. You must take your dog out after he eats, after play, after any kind of stimulation.

"Take a very special treat and your happiest voice to the special spot. The moment the puppy's feet hit the ground, get excited." When the deed is done, says Arden, praise your pet and deliver the treat.

Limiting a dog's wandering in the house is also important. "I'm a firm believer in crate-training -- as a tool, not a punishment," says Arden. "A crate keeps a dog out of trouble when you can't watch him." Some trainers also recommend leashing your dog to you in the house while training, so the pet can't slip off unnoticed.

Mistakes are part of the learning process and should never be punished. "If you see the dog starting to go in the house, pick him up and run him to that special spot," says Arden, and praise when the dog finishes up outside.

If you want to solve this problem, you'll have to work at it consistently for a few weeks or more. It's worth it in the end, because then you'll have the companion you were hoping for when you brought home your puppy -- a bright, happy dog of a manageable size who knows how to do her business outside.

Q: As the temperature is heating up, so are truck beds. Many dog owners seem to be blissfully unaware of that, and they make their dogs ride in the back. Please help educate these idiots. -- N.B., via e-mail

A: Consider it done. Transporting a dog in the back of an open pickup is about the worst thing you can do in terms of safety and comfort. Aside from the problem of hot feet, dogs in pickups can be thrown from the vehicle, or sometimes will jump out if something catches their attention. Leashing your dog -- as required by law in some states -- provides little in the way of safety.

If you must transport your dog in a pickup, do so in a crate secured firmly to the bed of the truck. Using a crate will keep your dog's feet off the hot metal, and provide protection against him jumping out or being thrown out if you must stop sharply.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600